Pablo Inglese

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

Pablo Inglese Pablo Criado Toca has achieved his dream He left Courmayeur on the 9th of August to return on the 18th after climbing in alpine style four 4000 meters, the giants of Aosta Valley! For a total of 440 kilometres of climbing and running! Tis is the challenge that the spanish runner Pablo Criado has achieved, a challenge that many have dreamt of and that he has done! Here his schedule Sunday August 9 departure at 6 am for the frst leg Courmayeur - Oyace where he was received and hosted by the major of Valpelline Monday August 10 from Oyace, passing through Cervinia he reached Rifugio Teodulo where he met Lucio Trucco, a mountain guide from the Società Guide Alpine di Cervinia. Tuesday 11th of August with Lucio he reached the top of Cervino and descended back to Rifugio Todulo Wednesday 12th, always with Lucio, they walked the very long traverse Castore – Lyskamm – Capanna Margherita till the top of Monte Rosa, then descended in Staffal where Pablo was hosted by the Hotel De Gletscher Tursday 13th: from Staffal to Donnas, where he was able to sleep in the historical Forte di Bard Friday 14th: from Donnas to Cogne, where he spent the night in the brand new hostel in the miner’s village of the Foundation Grand Paradis Saturday 15th of August due to adverse weather conditions he is forces to reschedule his itinerary heading towards Rifugio Chabod in Valsavarence to meet Anna Torretta from Società delle Guide di Courmyeur Sunday 16th ignoring the bad weather he manages to reach the top of Grand Paradiso taking the Schiena dell’Asino route having to open the trace in 60cm of fresh snow, then taking the very long descent to reach Val grisenche around midnight where he was hosted by the local council Monday 17th with an early start at 5am he arrives in courmayeur at 4.30 pm, after a small rest he leaves for Mont Blanc with Andrea Plat from Società delle Guide di Courmayeur. Tuesday 18th the two alpinists reach the top of Mont Blanc du Tacul, where they fnd themselves are alone due to the bad weather. Once on top they begin their descent to Courmayeur where fans, and friends are there ready to celebrate. Te project Pablo says: “ Tis project has been my dream for a long time, I had already fallen in love with Valle d’Aosta the numerous times I ran the Tor des Geants. But those giants that guard the Tor where calling me back and I wanted to try the experience of climbing even higher and look at the world and at Aosta Valley from the highest prospective! To make this dream come true I had to give a clear message of security on the mountains. Mountain running and trail running are in fashion, running is very fun and amusing but when you reach certain heights it becomes important to entrust the ones who made the mountains their profession. From a certain height you need to ascent with a slow pace, well equipped, and with a mountain professional: mountain guides that have the knowledge on weather conditions, height, difficulties. Tis message of safety is what I want to give so that no illusions are created, illusions that can put people’s life in danger, especially if blinded by enthusiasm they take the mountains with no seriousness. Now that this dream has come true I will start to imagine a new one but always putting safety frst. Tis project would’ve not been possible without the help of all the people that believed in it Tanks to Maurizio Lanivi the major of Valpelline the hoteliers of the refuges on Cervino and Monte Rosa Piersandro Maggi and the group of Gressoney especially Francesca from Hotel De Gletscher Gabriele Accornero from Forte di Bard Luisa Vuillermoz for La fondation Grand Paradis Alessandro Bois for the council of Valgrisenche and the guides: Lucio Trucco from società delle guide del Cervino Anna Torretta and Andrea Plat from società delle Guide di Courmayeur And a special thanks to everyone that have helped and assisted making this frst dream come true! .
Recommended publications
  • 4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
    rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze
    [Show full text]
  • Mists on Mont Blanc. by A
    MlSTS ON MONT BLANC • • MISTS ON MONT BLANC. BY A. D. M. COX -,HE English July of I955, a month of cloudless skies and baro­ meter set fair, had made it difficult to believe the unfavourable reports about conditions in the Alps. Wilfrid Noyce and I, going on ead of the others, left London airport on July 29 in hot sunshine, to land at Geneva in a downpour which confined passengers to the plane until an issue· of red umbrellas enabled them to make exit two by two, as if from the ark. The speed with which the umbrellas were produced suggested that the routine was familiar. At Les Contamines, where we arrived the same evening, it was evident that there had been plenty of such weather, and storms never seemed very far away during the next two and a half weeks. But if it was a highly unsettled season, it was at least not an impossible one. like I954· Climbing of some kind was nearly always practicable, but it was never certain from day to day of what kind it would be. Changes were rapid and unforeseen. Thick cloud and depressing rain at night would suddenly give place to clear starlight. A glorious morning would turl) to snow before midday. It was an unpredictable year to have picked for a season in the neighbour­ hood of Mont Blanc. Noyce and I spent our first day on Mont Tondu and the western Aiguille des Lanchettes, returning in the evening to Les Contamines. There we were joined by John Hunt, who had.
    [Show full text]
  • Notes 1971 the Alps Colin Taytor
    Notes 1971 The Alps Colin Taytor Summary The summer season of 1971 must be one of the best on record. In the Western Alps the winter snowfall was late and less than usual, so the big classic faces came into condition early and remained in good condition for much of the season, in spite of several quite big storms in late July and August. A solo first ascent and half a dozen solo ascents of major routes were made by British climbers. British parties also made ascents of important routes such as the North-west faces of the Olan and the Ailefroide in the Dauphine, the Brouillard Pillars, the Grand Pilier d'Angle, the Central Pillar of Freney and the Droites North face in the Mont Blanc region, and of the Eiger and the Matterhorn North faces. Many other British parties made notable ascents and the notes below, while not complete, are confined mainly to their achievements. Details of ascents by continental climbers can be found in Alpine Climbing and in the continental journals, particularly La Montagne and Alpinismus. I am grateful particularly to Doug Scott, the Editor of Alpine Climbing and to Ken Wilson, the Editor of Mountain for collecting much of the information on which these notes are based, and also to many others who sent in information about their routes. DAUPHINE Probably more English parties climbed in the Dauphine in the summer of 1971 than ever before. Weather conditions were good, particularly during July, although several big storms occurred in August. As a result, many of the big routes were in condition.
    [Show full text]
  • Mer De Glace” (Mont Blanc Area, France) AD 1500–2050: an Interdisciplinary Approach Using New Historical Data and Neural Network Simulations
    Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie Herausgegeben von MICHAEL KUHN BAND 40 (2005/2006) ISSN 0044-2836 UNIVERSITÄTSVERLAG WAGNER · INNSBRUCK 1907 wurde von Eduard Brückner in Wien der erste Band der Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, für Eiszeitforschung und Geschichte des Klimas fertig gestellt. Mit dem 16. Band über- nahm 1928 Raimund von Klebelsberg in Innsbruck die Herausgabe der Zeitschrift, deren 28. Band 1942 erschien. Nach dem Zweiten Weltkrieg gab Klebelsberg die neue Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie im Universitätsverlag Wagner in Innsbruck heraus. Der erste Band erschien 1950. 1970 übernahmen Herfried Hoinkes und Hans Kinzl die Herausgeberschaft, von 1979 bis 2001 Gernot Patzelt und Michael Kuhn. In 1907 this Journal was founded by Eduard Brückner as Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, für Eiszeitforschung und Geschichte des Klimas. Raimund von Klebelsberg followed as editor in 1928, he started Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie anew with Vol.1 in 1950, followed by Hans Kinzl and Herfried Hoinkes in 1970 and by Gernot Patzelt and Michael Kuhn from 1979 to 2001. Herausgeber Michael Kuhn Editor Schriftleitung Angelika Neuner & Mercedes Blaas Executive editors Wissenschaftlicher Beirat Editorial advisory board Jon Ove Hagen, Oslo Ole Humlum, Longyearbyen Peter Jansson, Stockholm Georg Kaser, Innsbruck Vladimir Kotlyakov, Moskva Heinz Miller, Bremerhaven Koni Steffen, Boulder ISSN 0044-2836 Figure on front page: “Vue prise de la Voute nommée le Chapeau, du Glacier des Bois, et des Aiguilles. du Charmoz.”; signed down in the middle “fait par Jn. Ante. Linck.”; coloured contour etching; 36.2 x 48.7 cm; Bibliothèque publique et universitaire de Genève, 37 M Nr. 1964/181; Photograph by H. J.
    [Show full text]
  • Tour Du Mont Blanc Tour Du Mont Blanc
    SLOWAYS SRL - EMAIL: [email protected] - TELEPHONE +39 055 2340736 - WWW.SLOWAYS.EU WALKING type : Self-Guided level : duration : 11 days period: Jun Jul Aug Sep code: FRSW403 Tour du Mont Blanc - Italy Tour del Monte Bianco 11 days, price from € 1195 Enjoy exhilarating hikes through a magnificent nature with stunning landscapes of dramatic snowcapped peaks, picture-perfect alpine pastures and idyllic meadows. Touring the Mont Blanc, Europe’s heighest peak you walk through 3 different countries France, Italy and Switzerland each with their unique architectonic styles and cuisine, a rich variety of wildlife including marmots and chamois, and an extraordinary variety of flowers which bloom in their thousands in spring and summer. Beginning in the Chamonix valley , you walk across meadows and pass into Italy, then down to Courmayour and over peaks into Switzerland, returning to France and the upper end of the Chamonie Valley. You overnighting in beautifully located mountain huts where hearty meals provide you with energy for the breath- taking walks. The walks on well-marked trails are satisfyingly long but never exhausting. The tips of Valentina: Admire Europe’s highest mountain, with peaks capped by a blanket of snow; Enjoy the beautiful Val Veny and the Aiguille des Glaciers; Try rich and tasty mountain cuisine, including delicious cheeses, polenta, mushrooms Route Day 1 Arrive in Chamonix The trek starts in Chamonix: on your first day you can spend your day wandering through the streets of this lively city, do a little shopping in the many shops of the city centre or maybe spoil yourself with a visit to the spa.
    [Show full text]
  • DR. PACCARD's DIARY. by E. H. Stevens
    • JEt a • •• Reproduction of an olrl priJJt ji·om the tollfttion q( 1( 11 . L l~ yrl. ,... THE • A L P I N E J 0 U R N A Ij . MAY 1934. (No. 248.) DR. PAccARn's DIARY. BY E. H. STEVENS. 0 more important and interesting document has come down to us from the era in which modern mountaineering began than the MS. diary of Dr. M. G. Paccard of Chamonix, who with Jacques Balmat made the first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786. The late C. E. Mathews obtained the diary from Dr. Paccard's great-grandson, Ambroise-Adolpha Balmat. He made some use of it in his 'Annals of Mont Blanc,' and bequeathed it to the Alpine Club. It is now carefully preserved in a special morocco case as one of the chief treasures of the Club library. A transcript of the text was made by (or for) the late H. F. Montagnier quem honoris causa nomino and from this a nearly complete reprint was published, with the consent of the Committee of the Alpine Club, as an appendix to Dr. Dubi's 'Paccard wider Balmat ' (1913). This is the 'Only form in which the whole text of the diary is accessible, and unfortunately Dr. Dubi's book is long since out of print.l Some extracts, however (relating to the ascents between 1787 and 1825), were printed in Mr. Montagnier's valuable article 1 It would be a boon to many students if a reprint of the diary (and perhaps of a few other rare documents of the period) could be published at a moderate price.
    [Show full text]
  • Revue De Géographie Alpine, 107-4 | 2019 Mountain Guides Facing the Effects of Climate Change
    Journal of Alpine Research | Revue de géographie alpine 107-4 | 2019 Varia 2019 Mountain guides facing the effects of climate change. What perceptions and adaptation strategies at the foot of Mont Blanc? Emmanuel Salim, Jacques Mourey, Ludovic Ravanel, Pietro Picco and Christophe Gauchon Electronic version URL: https://journals.openedition.org/rga/5865 DOI: 10.4000/rga.5865 ISSN: 1760-7426 Publisher: Association pour la diffusion de la recherche alpine, UGA Éditions/Université Grenoble Alpes Electronic reference Emmanuel Salim, Jacques Mourey, Ludovic Ravanel, Pietro Picco and Christophe Gauchon, “Mountain guides facing the effects of climate change. What perceptions and adaptation strategies at the foot of Mont Blanc?”, Journal of Alpine Research | Revue de géographie alpine [Online], 107-4 | 2019, Online since 26 August 2019, connection on 21 September 2021. URL: http://journals.openedition.org/rga/5865 ; DOI: https://doi.org/10.4000/rga.5865 This text was automatically generated on 21 September 2021. La Revue de Géographie Alpine est mise à disposition selon les termes de la licence Creative Commons Attribution - Pas d'Utilisation Commerciale - Pas de Modification 4.0 International. Mountain guides facing the effects of climate change. What perceptions and ad... 1 Mountain guides facing the effects of climate change. What perceptions and adaptation strategies at the foot of Mont Blanc? Emmanuel Salim, Jacques Mourey, Ludovic Ravanel, Pietro Picco and Christophe Gauchon Acknowledgements The authors would like to thank A. Barberis for his support in translating the survey into Italian. They also thank E. Motta and J.-P. Fosson (Fondation Montagne sûre) for their attentive proofreading of the manuscript.
    [Show full text]
  • In the Footsteps of Gervasutti Simon Richardson
    In the Footsteps of Gervasutti SIMON RICHARDSON (Plates 47-sr) The 1930S have come to be regarded as one ofthe golden ages ofalpine climbing. During this period there was a huge surge in standards, and the great N faces of the Eiger, Grandes Jorasses and the Matterhorn were first climbed. Competition was fierce for these prestigious ascents, mainly between German and Italian teams, and each nationality achieved notable successes. Firmly established within the Italian camp was Giusto Gervasutti. Widely regarded as one of the most talented climbers of his generation, he made first ascents of several of the finest routes in the Western Alps. Today, his climbs are not as well known as Cassin's, for example, but whilst Cassin succeeded more often by careful planning and determination, Gervasutti's routes were imaginative and often very modern in concept. His greatest rock routes carry their reputation to this day for difficulty and senousness. Reflecting over my own 15 years of alpine climbing, I realized that Gervasutti's climbs, more than any other, have provided some of my most challenging and satisfying ascents. I must admit to a love of wild and empty places, and the desire to visit these is often as strong as the urge to climb itself. This perhaps explains why Gervasutti's routes, which are often remotely situated, have such an appeal. For others who share my fascination with some of the less well known corners in the Alps, I have tried to give a taster below from some of my own experiences on Gervasutti's greatest rock routes.
    [Show full text]
  • Winter Climbing in the Mont Blanc Massif Renri Agresti (Written in Collaboration with Franc;:Ois Lespinasse) (Translation: H
    Winter Climbing in the Mont Blanc Massif Renri Agresti (written in collaboration with Franc;:ois Lespinasse) (Translation: H. Pursey) While it is true to say that mountaineers are always seeking new problems­ for instance, exploration of the last European mountains, and of little-known mountains outside Europe, ascents by all-women parties or in winter-we should refute the commonly held notion that this is only a recent trend. For example, winter mountaineering did not post-date the conquest of the Alps, as is evident if one remembers that the first winter ascent of Mont Blanc was in 1876. In fact, this was when Miss Straton, Jean Charlet and Sylvain Couttet under­ took, for reasons which remain obscure-but then, does one ever understand the motives for mountaineering ?-and succeeded in this audacious climb. Their success was one of the first, if not the first, of those recorded in the Mont Blanc massif, to mention only the most important among massifs of the French Alps. In theother French massifs, winter mountaineering has developed along similar lines, with the possible exception of the Dauphine, where most of the important problems remain to be solved. 1 Up to the beginning of this century, winter expeditions in the Mont Blanc massif were very rare, and it was only during the early decades of the century that people began to visit it in anynumbers in winter. One should note especially some twenty successful ascents which took place between 1900 and 1940, when most of the summits already climbed in the 'Golden Age' of Alpinism were conquered in winter: Aiguille"\ erte in 1903, Grepon-which according to Mummery some fifty years earlier was 'the most difficult climb in the Alps'­ in 1922, Aiguille du Dru and les Droites in 1928.
    [Show full text]
  • High Mountain Flights
    High Mountain flights Possible as a course for autonomous pilots, or in tandem if you are not a pilot. We can organise a course if you are at least 3 persons interested, or you can go just 1 or 2 persons with a private instructor - mountain guide. You need to be autonomous at the landing for this option. The high mountain flights which are accessible by ski lifts These flights will require you to be roped-up and to have high mountain equipment (harness and crampons depending on the conditions), even if the access is relatively fast. L'Aiguille du Midi : Two possibilities of take-off at 3 700 m of altitude, at the foot of the Aiguille du Midi ridge, depending on the wind north or south or towards Italian side from Helbronner (with south wind, landing in Courmayeur). You must be equipped with crampons and you will be roped-up to go down the ridge, very ethereal according to its state, (beginning of the Midi-Plan route) until the take-off (approximately 20 min of walk-in). In the winter, the ridge is equipped with ropes, so it's a little easier. Dates: These flights are heavily dependent on the weather report, so we can rarely schedule in advance. We group together the pilots on reservations only, when the weather report announces a possible window. We then confirm the meeting, according to your availability and according to the last weather forecast, the day before the planned flight. The same is true if you have a private instructor. Winter is often a very convenient period for these flights.
    [Show full text]
  • Doug Mclean's Mountaineering Records
    A founding member of the Club, Doug McLean, put together this list of mountaineering by South Australians. Past and present CCSA members are shown in red. The club was established in September 1967. Mountain Height (m) Location Route Grade Climbers Date Comment Acland 2562 Mt Cook NP, NZ Doug McLean, David Mills Jan 67 Aconcagua 6961 Argentina NW Face Michael Hillan 1998 guided, solo on summit day Polish Glacier Rob Baker, Dave Lee Feb 02 reached 6200m Aguja de la S 2335 Patagonia Bulgarian Route 6b Rob Baker, Jimmy and Christoph Jan 03 alpine style Aguja Rafael Juárez 2450 Patagonia W Face Rob Baker, Shingo Ohkawa Jan 07 Aiguille de l'M 2844 Haute Savoie, France NNE Ridge V- Richard Horn, Doug McLean Jun 71 NNE Ridge Rob Baker, Ross Cowie Jun 07 alpine style Menegaux Route, NW Face VI+ Doug McLean, Chris Baxter, Mike Browne Jul 71 Aiguille des Pélerins 3318 Haute Savoie, France SW Ridge V Richard Horn, Doug McLean Jul 71 Aiguille du 3824 Haute Savoie, France N Buttress, descent W ridge D Richard Horn, Doug McLean Jul 71 Chardonnet traverse E Ridge - summit - W AD Doug McLean, Jonathan Chester Jul 76 Ridge Aiguille du Midi 3842 Haute Savoie, France SSE Ridge AD III Richard Horn, Doug McLean Aug 71 Frendo Spur D+ Rob Baker, Ross Cowie Jun 07 alpine style Aiguille du Peigne 3192 Haute Savoie, France Papillons Arête (W Ridge of V Richard Horn, Doug McLean Jul 71 Pointe 3009m) Chamonix Face and N Ridge VI Richard Horn, Doug McLean Jul 71 Aiguille du Plan 3673 Haute Savoie, France SE Face (Envers du Plan Glacier) PD Richard Horn, Doug McLean
    [Show full text]
  • Mont Blanc Add on 4,807M / 15,771Ft
    MONT BLANC ADD ON 4,807M / 15,771FT 2021 TRIP NOTES MONT BLANC ADD ON TRIP NOTES 2021 TRIP DETAILS Dates: Available on demand from June to September Duration: 3 days Departure: ex Chamonix, France Price: €2,550 1:1 guide to climber ratio €1,550 each 1:2 guide to climber ratio Just a few more steps to the summit! Photo: Olivier Baron Our Mont Blanc Add On is aimed at course and ascent participants who are looking to make the most of their acclimatisation by joining a guided ascent of Mont Blanc. The ascent is programmed to run over 3 days directly following the end of your trip, and for course participants, offers to the opportunity to make the most of newly acquired skills. We approach Mont Blanc from either the North Maudit is passed, you climb a large snow dome to West via the Goûter Route or the North via the Mont Blanc’s summit, the highest point in the Alps. Cosmiques Route. The Cosmiques Route traverses You will have the undivided attention of your guide the lesser peaks of Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont throughout the duration of your trip, who will be Maudit on the way to the summit. The choice of willing to help you revise technical skills throughout which route is taken will depend on group size and the programme. snow and weather conditions at the time. On the Goûter Route, we begin the approach by tram and railway, then walk up to the Tête ABOUT THE CLIMB Rousse Hut which takes 3–5 hours.
    [Show full text]