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4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
Grandeur Nature Haute-Savoie Full-Scale Grandeur Nature Natural Grandeur
Haute-Savoie grandeur nature Haute-Savoie full-scale grandeur nature natural grandeur Photographies DAVID MACHET Photographies David Machet Haute-Savoie Grandeur Nature Photographies David Machet Textes Laurent Gannaz 3 Introduction Il faut avoir pris la mesure de ses sentiers, s’être balancé sur soi-même To enter into the true spirit of Haute-Savoie and appreciate the diversity pour mieux y imprimer son pas. Avoir fait la conquête de sommets of its beauty one needs to immerse oneself on its numerous and varied inutiles. Il faut avoir flotté sur un lac d’huile au petit matin, avoir trails: To conquer its summits without asking the question why. To float soufflé, doigts gourds de givre, sur la braise d’un vieux fourneau, delicately on a tranquil lake in early morning. To blow on frost nipped dans un refuge un temps délaissé. Il faut s’être penché sur un fromage fingers over the hot cinders of an old oven in an out of Season Mountain fermier AOC, l’avoir dégusté comme un succulent poème. Il faut s’être hut. To savor the subtle flavours of a locally made cheese from a nearby repu d’un crépuscule sur le toit de l’Europe. Avoir avalé les cols à la mountain farm. To humbly watch the setting sun on Europe’s’ highest force du mollet. Avoir défriché des chemins de traverse, contemporains rooftop. To cycle over the many mountain cols. To explore forgotten and et oubliés… modern day pathways… La Haute-Savoie, terre bénie, dotée de tant d’atours que le regard The Haute-Savoie region is a veritable sacred land with an overwhelming pourrait s’y noyer, ne demande qu’à être retrouvée, partagée et contrast of scenery, just waiting to be discovered, shared and honored. -
Mists on Mont Blanc. by A
MlSTS ON MONT BLANC • • MISTS ON MONT BLANC. BY A. D. M. COX -,HE English July of I955, a month of cloudless skies and baro meter set fair, had made it difficult to believe the unfavourable reports about conditions in the Alps. Wilfrid Noyce and I, going on ead of the others, left London airport on July 29 in hot sunshine, to land at Geneva in a downpour which confined passengers to the plane until an issue· of red umbrellas enabled them to make exit two by two, as if from the ark. The speed with which the umbrellas were produced suggested that the routine was familiar. At Les Contamines, where we arrived the same evening, it was evident that there had been plenty of such weather, and storms never seemed very far away during the next two and a half weeks. But if it was a highly unsettled season, it was at least not an impossible one. like I954· Climbing of some kind was nearly always practicable, but it was never certain from day to day of what kind it would be. Changes were rapid and unforeseen. Thick cloud and depressing rain at night would suddenly give place to clear starlight. A glorious morning would turl) to snow before midday. It was an unpredictable year to have picked for a season in the neighbour hood of Mont Blanc. Noyce and I spent our first day on Mont Tondu and the western Aiguille des Lanchettes, returning in the evening to Les Contamines. There we were joined by John Hunt, who had. -
View from the Summit Over the Italian Side of Mont Blanc Is Breathtaking! Descent Via Normal Route
Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix 190 place de l’église - 74400 Chamonix – France - Tél : + 33 (0)4 50 53 00 88 www.chamonix-guides.com - e-mail : [email protected] AIGUILLE VERTE - PRIVE - TISON Duration: 5 days Level: Price from: 2 485 € The Chamonix Compagnie des Guides offers you a collection of programmes to climb the legendary peaks of the Alps. We have selected a route together with a specific preparatory package for each peak. Each route chosen is universally recognised as unmissable. Thanks to our unique centre of expertise, we can also guide you on other routes. So don’t hesitate to dream big, as our expertise is at your service to help you make your dreams come true. The Aiguille Verte is THE legendary peak in the Mont Blanc Massif. The celebrated mountaineer and writer Gaston Rébuffat contributed significantly to this reputation when he said of it: “Before the Verte one is a mountaineer, on the Verte one becomes a ‘Montagnard’ (mountain dweller)”. It is certainly true that there are no easy routes on this peak and each face is a significant challenge. The south side of the Aiguille Verte is an outstanding snow route that follows the Whymper Couloir for over 700 metres. This is unquestionably one of the most beautiful routes in the massif, and we offer a four-day programme for its ascent. ITINERARY Day 1 and Day 2 : Acclimatisation routes with a night in the Torino Hut (3370m) These first two days give your body the essential time it requires to adapt to altitude. -
512J the Alpine Journal 2019 Inside.Indd 422 27/09/2019 10:58 I N D E X 2 0 1 9 423
Index 2019 A Alouette II 221 Aari Dont col 268 Alpi Biellesi 167 Abram 28 Alpine Journal 199, 201, 202, 205, 235, 332, 333 Absi 61 Alps 138, 139, 141, 150, 154, 156, 163, 165, 179 Aconcagua 304, 307 Altamirano, Martín 305 Adams, Ansel 178 Ama Dablam 280, 282 Adam Smith, Janet 348 American Alpine Journal 298 Adda valley 170 American Civil War 173 Adhikari, Rabindra 286 Amery, Leo 192 Aemmer, Rudolph 242 Amin, Idi 371 Ahlqvist, Carina 279 Amirov, Rustem 278 Aichyn 65 Ancohuma 242 Aichyn North 65, 66 Anderson, Rab 257 Aiguille Croux 248 Andes 172 Aiguille d’Argentière 101 Androsace 222 Aiguille de Bionnassay 88, 96, 99, 102, 104, 106, Angeles, Eugenio 310 109, 150, 248 Angeles, Macario 310 Aiguille de l’M 148 Angel in the Stone (The) Aiguille des Ciseaux 183 review 350 Aiguille des Glaciers 224 Angsi glacier 60 Aiguille des Grands Charmoz 242 Anker, Conrad 280, 329 Aiguille du Blaitière 183 Annapurna 82, 279, 282, 284 Aiguille du Goûter 213 An Teallach 255 Aiguille du Midi 142, 146, 211, 242 Antoinette, Marie 197 Aiguille du Moine 146, 147 Anzasca valley 167 Aiguille Noire de Peuterey 211 Api 45 Aiguilles Blaitière-Fou 183 Ardang 62, 65 Aiguilles de la Tré la Tête 88 Argentère 104 Aiguilles de l’M 183 Argentière glacier 101, 141, 220 Aiguilles Grands Charmoz-Grépon 183 Argentière hut 104 Aiguilles Grises 242 Arjuna 272 Aiguille Verte 104 Arnold, Dani 250 Ailfroide 334 Arpette valley 104 Albenza 168 Arunachal Pradesh 45 Albert, Kurt 294 Ashcroft, Robin 410 Alborz 119 Askari Aviation 290 Alexander, Hugh 394 Asper, Claudi 222 Allan, Sandy 260, -
CC J Inners 168Pp.Indd
theclimbers’club Journal 2011 theclimbers’club Journal 2011 Contents ALPS AND THE HIMALAYA THE HOME FRONT Shelter from the Storm. By Dick Turnbull P.10 A Midwinter Night’s Dream. By Geoff Bennett P.90 Pensioner’s Alpine Holiday. By Colin Beechey P.16 Further Certifi cation. By Nick Hinchliffe P.96 Himalayan Extreme for Beginners. By Dave Turnbull P.23 Welsh Fix. By Sarah Clough P.100 No Blends! By Dick Isherwood P.28 One Flew Over the Bilberry Ledge. By Martin Whitaker P.105 Whatever Happened to? By Nick Bullock P.108 A Winter Day at Harrison’s. By Steve Dean P.112 PEOPLE Climbing with Brasher. By George Band P.36 FAR HORIZONS The Dragon of Carnmore. By Dave Atkinson P.42 Climbing With Strangers. By Brian Wilkinson P.48 Trekking in the Simien Mountains. By Rya Tibawi P.120 Climbing Infl uences and Characters. By James McHaffi e P.53 Spitkoppe - an Old Climber’s Dream. By Ian Howell P.128 Joe Brown at Eighty. By John Cleare P.60 Madagascar - an African Yosemite. By Pete O’Donovan P.134 Rock Climbing around St Catherine’s Monastery in the Sinai Desert. By Malcolm Phelps P.142 FIRST ASCENTS Summer Shale in Cornwall. By Mick Fowler P.68 OBITUARIES A Desert Nirvana. By Paul Ross P.74 The First Ascent of Vector. By Claude Davies P.78 George Band OBE. 1929 - 2011 P.150 Three Rescues and a Late Dinner. By Tony Moulam P.82 Alan Blackshaw OBE. 1933 - 2011 P.154 Ben Wintringham. 1947 - 2011 P.158 Chris Astill. -
Tour De Monte Rosa
TOUR DE MONTE ROSA Complete the Tour de Monte Rosa, a superb Alpine trekking holiday around Switzerland's highest peak Complete a full 9-day walking circuit around the Monte Rosa massif Walk hut-to-hut and overnight in a succession of atmospheric Alpine refuges Be immersed in stunning Swiss and Italian Alpine scenery, with views of the Matterhorn Experience one of Europe's finest walking holidays - an undiscovered gem HOLIDAY CODE TMR Switzerland, Trek & Walk, 11 Days 5 nights mountain hut / refuge, 5 nights hotel, 10 breakfasts, 10 dinners, max group size: 10, 9 days trekking, max altitude - 3317m VIEW DATES, PRICES & BOOK YOUR HOLIDAY HERE www.keadventure.com UK: +44(0) 17687 73966 US (toll-free): 1-888-630-4415 PAGE 2 TOUR DE MONTE ROSA Introduction Classic walking holiday adventure trekking around Monte Rosa in the Swiss Alps. One of the finest long-distance trekking opportunities in Alpine Europe is the walking circuit of the huge, many-summitted massif of Monte Rosa (4634m) in the Swiss Alps. Starting out from the picturesque Alpine village of Saas Fee, our walking follows a clockwise direction, crossing from Switzerland then trekking into Italy and then back again. This undiscovered gem of a walking route around Monte Rosa keeps to the high ground as much as possible, close up beneath towering Alpine peaks, crossing airy passes and encountering snowfields and even walking over glaciers. En route, there are stunning views of many of the big peaks of the Alps, such as the Dom (4545m) Weisshorn (4596m) and particularly memorable Matterhorn (4478m). -
Notes 1971 the Alps Colin Taytor
Notes 1971 The Alps Colin Taytor Summary The summer season of 1971 must be one of the best on record. In the Western Alps the winter snowfall was late and less than usual, so the big classic faces came into condition early and remained in good condition for much of the season, in spite of several quite big storms in late July and August. A solo first ascent and half a dozen solo ascents of major routes were made by British climbers. British parties also made ascents of important routes such as the North-west faces of the Olan and the Ailefroide in the Dauphine, the Brouillard Pillars, the Grand Pilier d'Angle, the Central Pillar of Freney and the Droites North face in the Mont Blanc region, and of the Eiger and the Matterhorn North faces. Many other British parties made notable ascents and the notes below, while not complete, are confined mainly to their achievements. Details of ascents by continental climbers can be found in Alpine Climbing and in the continental journals, particularly La Montagne and Alpinismus. I am grateful particularly to Doug Scott, the Editor of Alpine Climbing and to Ken Wilson, the Editor of Mountain for collecting much of the information on which these notes are based, and also to many others who sent in information about their routes. DAUPHINE Probably more English parties climbed in the Dauphine in the summer of 1971 than ever before. Weather conditions were good, particularly during July, although several big storms occurred in August. As a result, many of the big routes were in condition. -
Adventure Travel Trip Itinerary
Adventure Travel Trip Itinerary Name of trip: Switzerland—Tour du Mont Blanc Dates of trip: August 20 - September 4, 2019 Leader: Debbie Markham Date Meals Day Day Activity (distances are approximate) Accommodation, Notes included Aug 20 Travel to Geneva, Switzerland (Tues) 1 Aug 21 Arrival in Geneva Overnight in Geneva at D (Wed) Please plan to arrive before 2 p.m. local time, to allow Hotel Tiffany. Double occupancy. enough time to get through customs, arrive at the hotel and soak up some much deserved down time prior to dinner. Transportation to the hotel from the airport is on your own. Trip leaders will provide suggestions for available transportation options. After checking in to the hotel, you are free to explore the city on your own. We will meet at 5 p.m. in the lobby of the hotel for a group meeting followed by a welcome dinner. 2 Aug 22 Shuttle to Chamonix Overnight in Chamonix at B, D (Thurs) After breakfast at the hotel, we will shuttle to Chamonix. Hotel Le Morgane, a 4-star Lunch and afternoon activities are on your own. You can boutique hotel with on-site pool explore the charming ski town of Chamonix and gaze at the and spa. Double occupancy. massive Mont Blanc as you savor gelato or take the cable car to Aiguille du Midi for a 360-degree view of the French, Swiss, and Italian Alps. The summit terrace is at 12,605 feet with a spectacular view of Mont Blanc on a clear day. We will meet up for a group dinner. -
Peaks & Glaciers®
Peaks & Glaciers® 2021 JOHN MITCHELL FINE PAINTINGS EST 1931 Peaks & Glaciers® 2021 20th Anniversary Exhibition Catalogue All paintings, drawings and photographs are for sale and are available for viewing from Monday to Friday by prior appointment at: John Mitchell Fine Paintings 17 Avery Row Brook Street London W1K 4BF Catalogue compiled and written by William Mitchell. [email protected] + 44 (0)207 493 7567 www.johnmitchell.net To mark our twentieth Peaks & Glaciers exhibition, a dedicated and 3 richly illustrated book will be published later in the spring of this year. Drawing on two decades of specializing in these paintings, drawings Anneler 43 and rare photographs of the Alps, the anniversary publication will chart some of the highlights that have passed through my hands. The Avanti 16 accompanying essay will attempt to explain – to both veteran followers and newcomers alike- why collectors and readers of these annual Braun 44 catalogues continue to enjoy receiving them and why this author Bright 26 derives such pleasure from sourcing and identifying the pictures that are offered. Above all, it promises to be a beautiful homage to the Alps Calame 24, 38 in a year when many people have been unable to spend time in the Colombi 20, 27 mountains and inhale, in the great climber and author Leslie Stephen’s words, ‘all those lungfuls of fresh air’. Contencin 6, 12, 15, 36, 39, 40, 43 da Casalino 48 Details of the book and how to get a copy will be sent to all Peaks & Glaciers enthusiasts nearer the time. Daures 18 Fourcy 14, 19 There has already been some significant snowfall in many parts of the Alps this winter and, as per every season, it is difficult to know in Grimm 11 advance which areas will receive more than others. -
Tournament 33 Round #2
Tournament 33 Round 2 Tossups 1. One version of this statement was issued while standing on one foot by Hillel in lieu of reciting the entire Torah. A lawyer asks a clarifying question about this teaching in the Gospel of Luke, as worded before the phrase "I am the LORD" in Leviticus 18:19, before the parable of the Good Samaritan. In the synoptic Gospels, Jesus calls this precept the second (*) "great commandment" of the law, after loving God. For 10 points, name this Biblical ethical principle of acting the same way they wish others might act. ANSWER: Golden Rule [or Love your neighbor as yourself; or That which is hateful to you, do not do to another; or ethic of reciprocity; accept "thee," "thy," etc. for "you," "your," etc.] 104-13-75-02101 2. Django Reinhardt's “Mystery Pacific” imitated one of these things and was influenced by Duke Ellington's piece about a “Daybreak” one of these objects. A Harry Warren-Mack Gordon tune about one of these states that, “Read a magazine and then you're in Baltimore.” A Jimmy Forrest standard about a “Night” variety of one of these things was covered by James Brown and includes Brown announcing the names of east coast cities. Another Ellington tune discusses (*) taking the “A” one of these in “Sugar Hill way up in Harlem.” For 10 points, name this mode of transportation depicted in “Chattanooga Choo-choo.” ANSWER: trains 030-13-75-02102 3. This leader approved Georges Couthon's Law of 22 Prairial. This man worked in conjunction with Saint-Just. -
Mer De Glace” (Mont Blanc Area, France) AD 1500–2050: an Interdisciplinary Approach Using New Historical Data and Neural Network Simulations
Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie Herausgegeben von MICHAEL KUHN BAND 40 (2005/2006) ISSN 0044-2836 UNIVERSITÄTSVERLAG WAGNER · INNSBRUCK 1907 wurde von Eduard Brückner in Wien der erste Band der Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, für Eiszeitforschung und Geschichte des Klimas fertig gestellt. Mit dem 16. Band über- nahm 1928 Raimund von Klebelsberg in Innsbruck die Herausgabe der Zeitschrift, deren 28. Band 1942 erschien. Nach dem Zweiten Weltkrieg gab Klebelsberg die neue Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie im Universitätsverlag Wagner in Innsbruck heraus. Der erste Band erschien 1950. 1970 übernahmen Herfried Hoinkes und Hans Kinzl die Herausgeberschaft, von 1979 bis 2001 Gernot Patzelt und Michael Kuhn. In 1907 this Journal was founded by Eduard Brückner as Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde, für Eiszeitforschung und Geschichte des Klimas. Raimund von Klebelsberg followed as editor in 1928, he started Zeitschrift für Gletscherkunde und Glazialgeologie anew with Vol.1 in 1950, followed by Hans Kinzl and Herfried Hoinkes in 1970 and by Gernot Patzelt and Michael Kuhn from 1979 to 2001. Herausgeber Michael Kuhn Editor Schriftleitung Angelika Neuner & Mercedes Blaas Executive editors Wissenschaftlicher Beirat Editorial advisory board Jon Ove Hagen, Oslo Ole Humlum, Longyearbyen Peter Jansson, Stockholm Georg Kaser, Innsbruck Vladimir Kotlyakov, Moskva Heinz Miller, Bremerhaven Koni Steffen, Boulder ISSN 0044-2836 Figure on front page: “Vue prise de la Voute nommée le Chapeau, du Glacier des Bois, et des Aiguilles. du Charmoz.”; signed down in the middle “fait par Jn. Ante. Linck.”; coloured contour etching; 36.2 x 48.7 cm; Bibliothèque publique et universitaire de Genève, 37 M Nr. 1964/181; Photograph by H. J.