Journeying Through Cuba's
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Travels in Geology JOURNEYING Through Cuba’s GEOLOGY AND CULTURE The Viñales Valley was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 because of the area’s natural beauty and the inhabitants’ use of traditional agricultural techniques for the cultivation of tobacco and other crops. ©Shutterstock.com/Kamira 42 EARTH August 2013 www.earthmagazine.org Debra Hanneman that you get the chance to go to Cuba, so when It’s not every day I found out that the Association for Women Geoscientists (AWG) was offering a trip in March 2013, I jumped at the opportunity. The trip — nearly two weeks of exploration of our southern neighbor’s geology and culture — did not disappoint. www.earthmagazine.org EARTH August 2013 43 The city of Havana, founded by the Spanish in the 16th century, is built up around Havana Bay (view is from atop the National Museum of Natural His- tory located in the Armas Plaza of Old Havana). Street musicians are a common sight on the streets of Old Havana, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The author’s people-to- people tour of Cuba took her and 13 colleagues all around Cuba. LOGISTICS AND ITINERARY and our geology guide on the trip — introduced Although Cuba is just 145 kilometers south of themselves and loaded us onto our tour bus. We Miami, few U.S. citizens get the chance to visit spent the first night in Havana before departing for because of the continuing U.S. trade embargo on our field destinations. Cuba, initially imposed in 1960. Travelers from For the next 10 days, our group traveled via tour most other countries can readily visit Cuba, but bus through western and central Cuba. Our daily U.S. citizens must work with an organization schedule typically included a morning of geology licensed by the U.S. Department of State to provide led by Iturralde-Vinent, followed by people-to- “people-to-people” travel to Cuba for U.S. citi- people educational activities arranged by Insight zens. These people-to-people visits involve book- Cuba. Cuba provides some interesting geology ing a full-time schedule of educational exchange to check out, including everything from unusual activities for each traveler that will bring about a Upper Jurassic and Cretaceous deepwater marine “meaningful interaction” between the travelers rocks that exist because of Cuba’s location with and Cubans. respect to the North American and Caribbean I traveled as part of a 14-person AWG group that tectonic plates, to readily accessible sedimentary booked our travel through Insight Cuba, a licensed deposits resulting from the Chicxulub asteroid provider of people-to-people travel that took care impact event. In addition, Cuba also contains a of the logistical details of the trip (see sidebar, largely unsurpassed accumulation of oceanic mate- page 51). Once in Havana, our guides — including rial such as ophiolites and volcanic arc rocks that Manuel Iturralde-Vinent, a retired curator from the have helped geologists understand the processes National Museum of Natural History in Havana of plate subduction and accretion. Hanneman set: Debra top AGI; KathleenBottom: Cantner, 44 EARTH August 2013 www.earthmagazine.org Havana-area limestone is used in the construc- tion of several important buildings in Havana. Left: The Castle of the Royal Force, thought to be the oldest stone fort in the Americans, is located on the western side of the harbor in Havana. Below left: The Cathedral of Havana’s construction was initially started by Jesuits in 1748 and was finished by the city of Havana in 1777. Below: The Museum of Natural History in Havana is situated in the historic Armas Plaza of Old Havana. STARTING IN HAVANA material for several Old Havana buildings such as We flew into the capital, Havana, which lies the Castle of the Royal Force and the Cathedral of on the country’s northwestern coast where it has Havana. The Castle of the Royal Force, originally been built up around Havana Bay. Havana was completed in 1577, is an imposing structure that founded in the 16th century, and because of its was built to defend the Havana harbor against strategic location, became a key port for the New pirate attacks. The fort was set too far back from the World expansion of the Spanish empire. Old harbor to be an effective defense, and it ultimately Havana, the historic city center, was listed as a became the Governor of Havana’s residence. The UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982. Even in Cathedral of Havana — started by Jesuits in 1748 bustling Havana, where we spent our first day and finished by the city of Havana in 1777 — has exploring, some of Cuba’s geology can be seen in a beautiful, undulating façade and is considered local limestone outcrops and in its building stone. to be one of the world’s finest examples of Italian For example, the Pliocene Morro algal limestone Baroque architecture. outcrops beneath the Morro Castle, a fortress built in 1589 to guard the entrance to Havana Bay. HEADING WEST Another local limestone, the Middle Pleistocene After departing Havana, we headed for Pinar coral reef limestone of the Vedado Formation, del Río Province in far western Cuba. The red outcrops in a hill immediately north of the historic soils and towering limestone hills locally known Hotel National. as “mogotes” make this area world-renowned for Limestone quarried from the Havana shoreline its stunning views. One of the most scenic parts of All: Debra Hanneman Debra All: was used extensively as façade and block building the province, the Viñales Valley, was designated www.earthmagazine.org EARTH August 2013 45 The Jurassic basalts of the El Sábalo Formation in the northern Sierra del Rosario occur mostly in massive or pillow forms. Top: The Cretaceous-Paleogene boundary Moncada For- mation is a 2-meter-thick unit that records the Chicxulub impact event. Abundant shocked quartz and a high iridium concentration lend evidence to the Moncada Formation’s genesis from impact events. The Cretaceous- Paleogene contact in this section is indicated by the pen. Bottom: Morro Castle, built in 1589 to protect the entrance to Havana Bay, sits on Pliocene Morro algal limestone. a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999 because of the Sierra de los Órganos. One cave system, of the area’s natural beauty and the inhabitants’ Cueva del Indio, located about eight kilometers use of traditional agricultural techniques for the north of the town of Viñales, exemplifies a mogote cultivation of tobacco and other crops. While in the cave system formed by both surface river and Viñales Valley, we made one of our first “people- groundwater action. The cave has several levels, to-people” stops at a local tobacco farm where we with a subterranean stream that meanders through learned about tobacco cultivation and how to roll the lowest level. Some of our group passed up lunch good Cuban cigars. and instead took a motorized boat ride along about Two verdant, low ranges of hills, the Sierra de los 700 meters of the subterranean waterway. Órganos and Sierra del Rosario, border the coastline The Sierra del Rosario mountains contain mainly in this part of Cuba. These “mountains” are part Mesozoic limestones that have a deeper-water of the fold and thrust belts of the Guaniguanico marine origin than those in the Los Órganos. But, it Terrane. The Sierra de los Órganos have an amazing was the Jurassic basalts of the El Sábalo Formation sequence of exposed Mesozoic marine limestones in the northern Sierra del Rosario that really and Paleogene marine to continental sedimentary caught my attention. The basalts occur mostly in rocks. I was astonished to find the geological study massive or pillow forms. Our geology guide told of these rocks dates back to the late 1800s when us that these basalts probably formed on a conti- Manuel Fernández de Castro first found Jurassic nental margin that faced the Caribbean, and can marine invertebrate fossils on the slopes of Abra be interpreted as a magmatic event related to the de Ancón, a mogote located about 10 kilometers initiation of ocean spreading within the Caribbean. north of the town of Pinar del Río. An assemblage of time-equivalent Cretaceous In nearby Viñales National Park, we saw the marine fossils now found in the Guaniguanico extensive cave systems developed within mogotes Terrane that is related to both western Tethys Hanneman set: right Debra ©Shutterstock.com/claffra; Left: 46 EARTH August 2013 www.earthmagazine.org The Late Jurassic to Early Cretaceous deepwater Left: Our geologic guide, Manuel marine limestone and shale of the Artemisa For- Iturralde-Vinent, shows the con- mation are exposed in the Sierra del Rosario. tact of Late Jurassic thick-bed- ded limestone with overlying, thin bedded to laminated, chert- rich Cretaceous limestone. which outcrops north of Pinar del Río, in the Los Órganos near Cueva del Indio. Below: The Sierra de Guasasa, north of Pinar del Río, contains Jurassic limestone. The limestone units are now weath- ered into a mogote within the Sierra de los Órganos. (Mediterranean-northwest European) and eastern two-meter-thick section of marine sandstone-clay- Pacific faunas supports this interpretation. stone located near the town of Moncada in the Los Because my own geological research deals with Órganos. The unit records impact-related features unconformities (a contact surface between younger like abundant shocked quartz fragments, tsunami and older rocks signifying a missing time interval deposits, and high iridium concentrations, and lies in the geologic record) and with Paleogene-aged above the major Middle Cretaceous-Cretaceous/ rocks, I wanted to see the major unconformity Paleogene boundary rocks. between Middle Cretaceous rocks and Cretaceous- Paleogene boundary rocks that exists in much of the GETTING INTO THE CULTURE Guaniguanico Terrane and the overlying, mainly Our people-to-people activities in western Cuba Paleogene, rocks.