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Sudan Kingdom of the Nubian January 8 to 23, 2019

“Stanford Travel/Study changed our ‘travel lives.’ We have great memories of the many places we have been and people with whom we have traveled.”

—Julia Vandermade, MBA ’79, The , 2018

HE ENDLESS SANDS OF HAVE SECRETS TO TELL IN VOICES worn weary by the T passage of time. Known by the Greeks as Aithiopia () and by the as Kush, this arid desert region was a flourishing center of trade and culture for centuries, made livable by the coursing of the mighty Nile River. From the confluence of the Blue Nile and the White Nile to the mystical peaks of , the source of kingship for ancient royalty, we will delve into its rich past. We’ll stand in awe of the at and Meroë, wander the bones of a once-great medieval city in the north and view the roiling power of the Nile from the top of an Ottoman fort. Join us on this incredible journey, stepping farther back in time with every footprint left in the Sudanese sand!

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Faculty Leader SCOTT PEARSON, who has studied economic change in developing countries for four decades, taught economic development and international trade at the Food Research Institute at Stanford for some 34 years. He’s coauthored a dozen books, won several awards for his research and teaching, and advised governments on food and agricultural policy. He has also traveled and worked abroad in Africa, Asia and Europe and led more than 60 previous trips for Travel/Study. During our trip, Scott's talks will focus on Sudan's incredibly diverse political and economic history: and Dynastic Egyptian Wealth (3000–2000 B.C.E.); Kush and Dynastic Egyptian Decline (8th–7th centuries B.C.E.); Christian, Arabic, and Anglo-Egyptian Sudan (7th century C.E.–1956); and Independent Sudan (1956–present).

 Professor of agricultural economics, Stanford University, 1968–2002  Director, Food Research Institute, Stanford University, 1991–1996  Dean’s Award for Teaching, Stanford's School of Humanities and Sciences, 1978  MA, international relations, Johns Hopkins University  PhD, economics, Harvard University

“Scott Pearson was passionate and amazingly well-prepared with a wealth of information above and beyond our expectations.”

—Elsee, MBA ’75, and Thomas McEachin, Portugal and Galicia Food and Wine, 2016

Itinerary Tuesday to Thursday, January 8 to 10 U.S. / , Sudan Board planes for overnight flights to Khartoum via Addis Ababa or Dubai, arriving in Khartoum on Thursday and transferring to our hotel. After checking in, relax a bit before joining fellow travelers for a welcome reception and dinner. CORINTHIA HOTEL (1/10: D)

Friday, January 11 Khartoum / This morning head out on a tour to discover Khartoum, situated right at the confluence of the Blue and White Nile rivers. Pass by the Khalifa House Museum, the former residence of its native rulers, post- independence from the British, and view the exterior of the nearby silver-domed Mahdi’s Tomb. El Mahdi was a religious leader of the Samaniyya order in Sudan who, on June 29, 1881, proclaimed himself the Mahdi, the messianic redeemer of the Islamic faith. Next, cross from Khartoum to the west bank of the Nile to explore nearby Omdurman, Sudan’s capital during the Mahdist War (1881–1899). Spend some time at the vast Omdurman souq, the largest and most famous market in all of Sudan, perusing its colorful displays of Sudanese fruits, vegetables, glassware, pottery, leather and hand-crafted

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jewelry. At sunset, attend a ceremony performed by Whirling Dervishes near the tomb of Ahmed Al Nil before returning to Khartoum for dinner. CORINTHIA HOTEL (B,L,D)

Saturday, January 12 Khartoum Spend this morning at the National Museum of Sudan, the largest and most important archaeological collection in the country. The museum includes artifacts from the ancient Kush kingdom and Nubia’s Christian period and relics of the Al Saltan Al-Zarqa era (known as the Black Sultanate). Also view two temples built by Queen Hatshepsut and Thutmose III that were rescued by UNESCO, which moved them from the Lake Nasser submergence area after a destructive flood. In the afternoon, drive north of Khartoum to watch Nuba wrestling, a sport typical of the Kordofan region that has developed into a unique mixture of traditional culture and modern sport. CORINTHIA HOTEL (B,L,D)

Sunday, January 13 Khartoum / Western Desert / Karima After a leisurely breakfast, head into the expanse of the Western Desert, taking in ageless, straight-out- of-the bible, 360° vistas on our way to Wadi Muqaddam with its distinctive acacia trees and where we stop at an authentic chai house (tea house). In the late afternoon, we arrive at Karima on the bank of the Nile and not far from Jebel Barkal, an isolated monolith believed to be the source of kingship for Nubian and Egyptian rulers. Check in to our charming lodgings. NUBIAN REST HOUSE KARIMA (B,L,D)

Monday, January 14 Karima / Old Dongola / Our first stop today is the archaeological site of Old Dongola, the capital of the medieval Christian kingdom of . This city thrived in the medieval era and is filled with ruins, including Coptic churches and arabesque columns. Enjoy lunch at the home of a local Nubian family, where we have the chance to engage with locals in a way few tourists do. Continue on to Tombos with its ancient granite quarries and the remains of a statue of King before arriving at our rustic tented camp, our comfortable home for the next two nights. PRESET CAMP (B,L,D)

Tuesday, January 15 Tombos / Third Cataract / Sabu-Jaddi / Soleb Today we travel to a nearby Ottoman fort high atop a hill for a stunning view of the legendary Third Cataract of the Nile. Our next stop is the amazing rock art site of Sabu-Jaddi, where hundreds of images, ranging from prehistoric to Egyptian times, remain immortalized in the rock. Continue further north to the Temple of Soleb, the most beautiful of all of Sudan and rich with hieroglyphic inscriptions, bas-relief figures and elegant columns. PRESET CAMP (B,L,D)

Wednesday, January 16 Tombos / / Karima Journey back in time as we set foot in nearby Kerma, home to an early civilization that flourished from approximately 2500 B.C.E. to 1500 B.C.E. in Nubia, Upper and northern Sudan. This was the first capital of the and today home to seven remarkable statues of the Kushite Pharaohs. Time permitting, visit the Eastern Defuffa, a massive tomb structure surrounded by thousands of ancient graves. This afternoon, arrive in the Nubian town of Karima, our home for the next three nights. NUBIAN REST HOUSE - KARIMA (B,L,D)

Thursday, January 17 Karima / Jebel Barkal / El-Kurru Venture out to the foot of Jebal Barkal ("holy mountain" in Arabic), a UNESCO World Heritage site and often referred to as “the Mount Olympus” of the Nubian kings. After lunch, travel to the ancient site of

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El-Kurru, a vast complex of tombs and pyramids, some of which predate the 15th-century B.C.E. Kushite/Nubian city/state of Napata. All of the pharaohs of the 25th dynasty were buried here. Check out one tomb that can be entered and is decorated with images of the pharaoh and of various gods, as well as multicolored hieroglyphic inscriptions. In the late afternoon, return to Karima to relax before an evening of dinner, traditional music and dance. NUBIAN REST HOUSE - KARIMA (B,L,D)

Friday, January 18 Karima / Nile Cruise/ This morning, spend some time at the Karima market to get a glimpse of the daily life of Sudanese people. Then board a small motorboat for a pleasant cruise along the Nile to take in beautiful sand stretches and cultivated islands along the river. Following a picnic lunch in the area, visit the archaeological site of Nuri. Like the necropolis at El-Kurru, the pyramids at Nuri were all part of the Napata kingdom. To date, some 82 tombs have been discovered at Nuri, with most incorporating a . NUBIAN REST HOUSE - KARIMA (B,L,D)

Saturday, January 19 Karima / / Meroë Crossing the Nile this morning, we enter the Bayuda Desert, which occupies a pocket formed by a great bend in the Nile River and includes volcanic cone-shaped mountains of black basalt. The desert marks the southern half of what was once Nubia and, as such, played a crucial role in the formation of one of the world’s first civilizations. Take a pontin (ferry) on the Nile and mingle with locals aboard and their assemblage of goats, camels and donkeys as we make our way toward the Royal Necropolis of Meroë, which we begin to spot peeking above the drifting sand dunes. The Meroë necropolis encompasses more than 40 pyramids along the Nile in Sudan, some of them perfectly preserved. Head to our second tented campy for an afternoon at leisure before viewing the necropolis and its myriad pyramids in the setting sun, surrounded by only the desert and echoes of the past. MEROË CAMP (B,L,D)

Sunday, January 20 Meroë / Kabushia This morning, we enter the Royal Necropolis of Meroë, its summit adorned with the stone vestiges of Kushite kings. The necropolis sits atop shifting, dune-capped hills punctuated by the piercing apexes of 40 incredibly well-preserved pyramids. After exploring the site, stop for tea in the small village of Kabushia. En route, visit the Tarabil School, a sustainable tourism project for young Sudanese students. This afternoon cruise down the Nile to visit the ruins of the ancient royal city of Meroë. Excavations confirm that Meroë used to cover a large area and the royal city was located in a central position, surrounded by suburbs and a boundary wall. Most of the area where the ancient city was located, consisting of many small hills covered by red clay fragments, has yet to be excavated by archaeologists. Return to our tented camp in the evening. MEROË CAMP (B,L,D)

Monday, January 21 Meroë / Naga / Musawwarat es-Sufra / Khartoum Today we visit two archaeological sites. The first, Naga, is a collection of ruins dating from the Meroitic Period, and its temples are a showcase of Kushite culture. Continue on to Musawwarat es-Sufra, located in a beautiful valley crowned by hills and known for its “Great Enclosure,” one of northern Sudan’s major ancient monuments. Returning to Khartoum, enjoy a farewell reception and dinner this evening with fellow intrepid travelers to recount the highlights of our thrilling journey. CORINTHIA HOTEL (B,L,D)

Tuesday & Wednesday, January 22 & 23 Khartoum / U.S. After a morning at leisure in Khartoum, transfer to the airport for overnight flights home, arriving in the U.S. on Wednesday. (1/22: B)

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What to Expect We consider this to be a fairly strenuous program that is often physically demanding and busy. To enjoy this program to the fullest, you should be in good physical and mental health. The program includes some walks at historic sites where walking surfaces may be on loose soil or on sand dunes, uneven stones or gravel walkways. Walks can last several hours but proceed at a slow, steady pace to allow for close-up observations. In many instances, guided tours require standing in one place for up to one hour. The Northern Sudan region has a desert climate, with a wide thermal range between day and night—from 75 (°F) to 100 during the day to the low 60s in the evenings. Travel in this region can be time-consuming and unpredictable, requiring unexpected changes to our schedule. During our program we travel between destinations by four-wheel-drive vehicle, over roads that are often unpaved and bumpy and there are no bathrooms along the way so travelers should expect to use “nature’s facilities.” All of our accommodations are clean and comfortable but it is important to note that that Sudan’s tourism infrastructure is somewhat basic and we will be spending a total of four nights at two different tented camps. The first camp consists of small domed tents without private bathroom facilities, but with shared shower stalls and toilets. The second camp has private showers and toilets behind each tent, however travelers will be required to walk outside in order to reach these facilities. We expect that participants will be a self-selecting group whose interest in the places we visit far outweighs the need for creature comforts. We welcome travelers 15 years of age and older on this program.

Information Dates January 8 to 23, 2019 (16 days) Size This program can accommodate 35 participants. Single accommodations are extremely limited; please call for availability. Cost* $9,995 per person, double occupancy $11,995 per person, single occupancy *Stanford Alumni Association nonmembers add $300 per person Included  8 nights of superior or best-available accommodations ; 4 nights at rustic tented camps  12 breakfasts, 11 lunches and 12 dinners  Welcome and farewell receptions  All non-alcoholic beverages at group lunches and dinners  Complimentary bottled water in vehicles and with meals  Sightseeing by 4-wheel-drive vehicle, maximum of 3 travelers per vehicle  Expert local guide throughout  Gratuities to porters, guides and drivers for all group activities  All tours and entrance fees as described in the itinerary  Group transfers and baggage handling on program arrival and departure days

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 Minimal medical, accident and evacuation insurance  Visa fees and processing for group  Educational program with lecture series and pre-departure materials, including recommended reading list, a selected book, map and travel information  Services of our professional tour manager to assist you throughout the program Not Included  International and domestic airfare  U.S. and foreign airport taxes  Passport fees  Immunization costs  Meals and beverages other than those specified as included  Independent and private transfers  Trip-cancellation/interruption and baggage insurance  Excess-baggage charges  Personal items such as internet access, telephone and fax calls, laundry and gratuities for non-group services

Air Arrangements You are responsible for booking and purchasing airfare to the start location and from the end location of the program. These air purchases are NOT included in the program cost. To assist you in making these independent arrangements, we will send you information with your confirmation materials on when to arrive and depart.

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Terms and Conditions Deposit and Final Payment A $1,000-per-person deposit is required to reserve space on this program. Sign up online at alumni.stanford.edu/trip?sudan2019 or call the Travel/Study office at (650) 725-1093. Final payment is due 120 days prior to departure. As a condition of participation, all confirmed participants are required to sign a Release of Liability. Cancellations and Refunds Deposits and any payments are refundable, less a $500-per-person cancellation fee, until 120 days prior to departure. After that date, refunds can be made only if the program is sold out and your place(s) can be resold, in which case a $1,000-per-person cancellation fee will apply. Insurance Stanford Travel/Study provides all travelers who are U.S. or Canadian citizens with minimal medical, accident and evacuation coverage under our group-travel insurance policy. Our group policy is intended to provide minimal levels of protection while you are traveling on this program. You may choose to subscribe to optional trip-cancellation and baggage insurance. Information offering such insurance will be provided to travelers with their welcome materials. The product offered includes special benefits if you purchase your policy within 14 days of written confirmation of your participation on the trip. Eligibility We encourage membership in the Stanford Alumni Association as the program cost for nonmembers is $300 more than the member’s price. A person traveling as a guest paid for by a current member will not be charged the nonmember fee. Call (650) 725-0692 or visit alumni.stanford.edu/goto/membership for more information or to purchase a membership. Responsibility The Stanford Alumni Association, Stanford University and our operators act only as agents for the passenger with respect to transportation and exercise every care possible in doing so. However, we can assume no liability for injury, damage, loss, accident, delay or irregularity in connection with the service of any automobile, motor coach, launch or any other conveyance used in carrying out this program or for the acts or defaults of any company or person engaged in conveying the passenger or in carrying out the arrangements of the program. We cannot accept any responsibility for losses or additional expenses due to delay or changes in air or other services, sickness, weather, strike, war, quarantine, force majeure or other causes beyond our control. All such losses or expenses will have to be borne by the passenger as tour rates provide arrangements only for the time stated. We reserve the right to make such alterations to this published itinerary as may be deemed necessary. The right is reserved to cancel any program prior to departure in which case the entire payment will be refunded without further obligation on our part. The right is also reserved to decline to accept or retain any person as a member of the program. No refund will be made for an unused portion of any tour unless arrangements are made in sufficient time to avoid penalties. Baggage is carried at the owner’s risk entirely. The airlines concerned are not to be held responsible for any act, omission or event during the time passengers are not on board their plane or conveyance. Neither the Stanford Alumni Association, Stanford University nor our operators accept liability for any carrier’s cancellation penalty incurred by the purchase of a non-refundable ticket connected with the tour. Program price is based on rates in effect in May 2018 and is subject to change without notice to reflect fluctuations in exchange rates, tariffs or fuel charges.

California Seller of Travel Program Registration #2048 523-50 © COPYRIGHT 2018 STANFORD ALUMNI ASSOCIATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

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Contact Information

Visit us online to reserve space: http://alumni.stanford.edu/trip?sudan2019

Questions? Call us at (650) 725-1093 or email us at [email protected]

Stanford Alumni Association Stanford Travel/Study Frances C. Arrillaga Alumni Center 326 Galvez Street Stanford, CA 94305

Stanford Travel/Study is a program of the Stanford Alumni Association

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