SUMMER 2015

Gone to Market The Roles and Responsibilities of Dames in the Grocery Industry

ALSO INSIDE -

GEORGES AUGUSTE ESCOFFIER REVOLUTIONIZED THE CANONS OF CLASSICAL FRENCH CUISINE AND ELEVATED THE STATUS OF THE PROFESSIONAL CHEF. HIS LEGACY CONTINUES… Michel Escoffier and Mary Chamberlin at a Monterey Chapter celebration for Grande Dame Julia Child’s birthday. Karen Mitcham- Stoeckley’s Cotes de Agneau Maison d'Or (lamb cooked in the Provençal style); a recipe from her cookbook that she served for a special dinner (page 15). Photo by Curt Dennison. Michel Escoffier and Lori Willis examine a poster of the Escoffier Museum. Photo by Curt Dennison.

from the editor LDEI: Past, Present, and Future SUMMER 2 O15 Understanding the past is one of the most powerful tools we have for shaping the future. On pages 12 to 14, pay homage to the achievements of Master Chef Georges Auguste Escoffier. During the fabulous “Edible London” trip Dames participated In This Issue in last year, an afternoon tea was arranged at the Savoy Hotel. Executive Chef James Pare guided us on a tour through the kitchens, FEATURES sharing a history of the hotel and Escoffier. The Fabulous Four Chef Pare and his team spent months pour- 4 ing over the hotel archives and records at 6 Gone to Market Musee Escoffier in his efforts to incorporate Escoffier’s dishes into the Savoy’s menus. We 12 Escoffier: Looking Back all wanted to know more about Escoffier…this feature is a on a Legacy place to begin. Exciting news: The London Chapter will host Edible London, Part 2 in 2016. Watch for further details. 15 Doin' the Charleston Groceries, of necessity, are part of every woman’s life but in the feature story, “Gone to Market,” pages 6 to 10, nine enterprising 16 Global Culinary Initiative Dames have turned food into a career. New York Dame Karen Page, author of The Vegetarian Flavor Bible, writes, “The average 18 Wente: California's First American feels it’s easier to figure out income taxes than how to Family of Chardonnay eat healthy… the proven connection between nutrition and well- ness can’t be ignored. LDEI President Lori Willis says “Grocers 25 San Antonio Celebrates have an emotional connection with our customers because we provide the healthy food that they need to live a quality life. They DEPARTMENTS see us almost daily and look to us for more than just food; for education, information, and advice.” 20 Chapter News Our deserving 2015 Grande Dame nominees are presented on pages 4 to 5. Don’t miss the fabulous 26 Member Milestones chapter stories shared by Atlanta, San Antonio, and Hawaii. 31 Submission Guidelines Charleston has been busy planning the 2015 Annual Conference. It will be an extraordinary opportunity for personal enrichment, with productive sessions, engaging speakers, and time for fun. There is no place like beautiful Charles- ton! You will find it to be uniquely hospitable with splendid architecture, charming town gardens, balmy autumn weather, and history as rich as biscuits ‘n sausage gravy. Charleston has a lively beverage history as well, and the food is flavorful, unforgettable, and smoking hot! —Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston)

2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International PResident's Message 2015 LDEI Board of Directors The mission of the LDEI Board is to foster the growth and success of Let’s Giv’em Something to Talk About! the organization by supporting the development of new and existing chapters and by implementing program initiatives. Greetings ladies! It is my pleasure to provide It provides leadership, guidance, you with information and updates as we take education, connectivity, and effective full advantage of the beautiful days of summer. communication among LDEI members. We’ve been in contact with the team at the President USA Pavilion in Milan where the theme, Lori Willis “American Food 2.0” has come to life. The Director of Communications lineup includes renowned experts charged with Schnuck Markets, Inc. starting a worldwide conversation that unites 11420 Lackland Rd. Ballwin, MO 63146-3559 people around the topic of food. We will try (314) 994-4602 | [email protected] to keep you posted on developments via social First Vice President media but encourage you to take a look at the Maria Gomez-LAURENS program posted on-line. In the meantime, the Manager, Hospitality, HelmsBriscoe Expo has reminded me how LDEI might keep 11241 Avenida del Gato San Diego, CA 92126 our own “conversation” going. (858) 633-7515 | [email protected] I get excited when I hear of a Dame who, in Second Vice President a speech, video, or news article, finds a way Ann Stratte to mention LDEI. That small courtesy goes a Owner, My Personal Chef long way and I have tried to remember to talk contest (see ldei.org). Based on the caliber of 100 Severn Avenue, #506 nominees, the Grande Dame award is a guar- Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 about our organization or share news about (410) 903-2682 | [email protected] anteed highlight of Conference 2015. And, one of our members at least once a day. I find Third Vice President myself talking not only about my own chapter we have received a tremendous response to the Hayley Jo Matson-Mathes but about the exciting things happening in Legacy Award Program. I thank Co-Chairs Owner/Culinary Consultant LDEI chapters across the entire globe. As we Sue Robison and Alison Awerbach, The Julia 2333 Kapiolani Blvd #3516 Child Foundation, and all LDEI partners who Honolulu, HI 96826 go about our work or summer travels, let’s find (808) 941-9088 | [email protected] give of their time and talents to make this ways to “talk Dames.” Secretary I will start by talking about recent highlights program possible. Sharon M. Olson from your LDEI Board. I am always amazed The development team led by First VP Maria Executive Director, Culinary Visions® Panel at the amount of work that comes from these Gomez and Greg Jewell of AEC just reported 345 North Canal Street, Apt. 1407 an additional four partner agreements; plan- Chicago, IL 60606 Board volunteers and how, even with an eight- (312) 280-4573 | [email protected] ning has already begun for their participation hour time difference when traveling, CBL Treasurer Bev Schaffer is willing to set her alarm for a in Charleston! Now, that’s something to talk Stacy Zeigler conference call! about! Please reach out and thank all con- Director of Sales, Bold American Events firmed partners you see on our social media 2929 Surrey Lane With that level of dedication, you won’t be Atlanta, GA 30341 surprised to hear that we are taking a team blasts and on the full list that is building at (678) 302-3232 | [email protected] LDEI.org. Remember, it’s never too late approach to new chapter development this Chapter Board Liaisons year and are in talks with several potential to share ideas for additional new partners. Deborah Mintcheff new chapters. Armed with her newly-updated Partnering with LDEI offers value that every Project & Ckbk Editor/Food Writer/Copy Editor/ company who connects with our mission and Recipe Devel/Co-Active Life Coach handbook, Secretary Sharon Olson is work- Live Forward Coaching ing to ensure a strong representation of leaders vision deserves to know about. 129 East 69th Street to help share information, answer questions, Finally, all roads lead to Charleston, S.C. New York, NY 10021-5000 and directly extend an invitation to qualifying, (Oct. 29 – Nov. 1) where Conference Co- (212) 879-0383 | [email protected] potential members. Chairs Jennifer Goldman and Paige Crone Deborah Orrill are preparing to call in final details to the Culinary Consultant I have made a couple of these trips myself, 64 Vanguard Way along with Dames Nathalie Dupree and CiCi Board’s June meeting in Minneapolis, Min- Dallas, TX 75243 Williamson. While every Dame can be a great nesota. Thanks to the hospitality of our host (214) 343-0124 | [email protected] advocate, few can “talk Dames” better than chapter, we look forward to a great meeting, Bev Shaffer those two ladies! Unless, of course, it’s our PR a strong conference planning session, and Corporate Chef, Vitamix World Headquarters organizational networking with our Minnesota 3433 Blake Road and Social Media team! Second VP Hayley Seville, OH 44273 Matson-Mathes is generating quite a lot to Dames. I am sure it will give us even more (440) 781-7202 | [email protected] talk about, and we ask that you make sure wonderful things to talk about! Immediate Past President you are following the team on Facebook and Beth Allen Twitter. Founder/President, Beth Allen Associates Inc 347 W 22nd Street, Suite #9 Recent posts have also included informa- New York, NY 10011-4683 tion about our award programs, and CiCi Lori Willis (212) 206-1138 | [email protected] Williamson reports that judges have chosen President, Les Dames d’Escoffier International Executive Director the winners in LDEI's M.F.K. Fisher Awards Greg Jewell President, AEC Management Resources P.O. Box 4961 Louisville, KY 40204 (502) 456-1851 x1 | [email protected]

SUMMER Quarterly 2015 3 The Fabulous

chosen professions, whether it’s marketing, names. From an alphabet soup of 50 let- Role Models farming, teaching, or being a chef. ters, I conjured up: Dame, leader, mentor, You know their names: Pat Mozersky diplomat, journalist, president, talented, for Our Time (San Antonio), Dolores Snyder (Dal- star, smart, kind, loyal, pretty, jolly, and las), Julie Miller Jones (Minnesota), student. Regretfully, ”C” wasn’t available for Four fabulous Dames and, Joan Nathan (Washington). The chef, culinary, or cuisinier. I also came up have each been nomi- success of LDEI as an organization with mysterious, spouse, mother, sisterhood, nated by a chapter for the results from efforts of women like and hot mama—well, you get the idea! prestigious, 2015 Grande these. Certainly, these qualities, and many more, Dame Award. The honor is Speaking of names—I was conjuring characterize the nominees as role models bestowed every two years by up descriptive words for the fabulous four that embody the spirit of LDEI. They are Les Dames d’Escoffier Interna- when, inexplicably, anagrams came to mind. ALL winners, but the selection of one as our tional in recognition of extraordinary and An anagram is the rearrangement of letters newest Grande Dame will add a final grace unusual contributions in the fields of food, in a name to come up with another word. note. She will become LDEI’s 13th Grande fine wine and other beverages, nutrition, the In the Middle Ages, both scientist and sage Dame—a very lucky number indeed, given art of the table, and related areas. You can’t used the “word game” to discover hidden the high number of stellar qualities my help but be inspired as you read the bios of meanings and deep insights. Curious to try, secret world of anagrams revealed! these exceptional women. Their accomplish- I chose the letters from the four nominee’s ments motivate others to succeed in their Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston)

tion of tea themes and recipes one of the five originating chap- Dolores with table settings, tea etiquette, ters required to create the inter- tea accouterments, and the his- national organization. In 1986, SNYDER tory of afternoon tea. She also she was a founding member of has lectured about tea aboard the the James Beard Foundation. (Dallas) Queen Mary 2. Dolores served as the president A founder and active member of Dolores’ work has been fea- of LDEI from 1989-1991 and Les Dames d’Escoffier, Dolores tured in many magazines and participated actively on the Snyder is an international au- newspapers, including The New board for nine years. She also thority on the art of English tea. opened the Gourmet Cookery York Times, The Mail on Sun- has served as president of the Her culinary journey began in School in the Dallas area. day (London), Food Arts, and Dallas Chapter. the early 1970s, when she lived While her primary focus was Southern Living. She directed a Dolores Snyder has been a in London for three years and culinary training classes, her cooking and wine tour to France transformative presence in the studied cooking at Le Cordon love of tea and its rituals never for Neiman Marcus and was the culinary world for decades. Her Bleu, in Italy, Hong Kong, and diminished. She has taught the food expert on an Earthwatch leadership, dedication, and per- the Dieppe Cookery School in art of English tea for more than expedition to China. sistence in the advancement of France. In 1976, Dolores re- 25 years. In 2004, she published In 1984, Dolores founded the the culinary arts is unparalleled. turned to the United States and Tea Time Entertaining, a collec- Dallas Chapter of Les Dames,

4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Joan Julie NATHAN MILLER (Washington) JONES Joan Nathan has received the highest accolades in the (Minnesota) world of food. In 2001, she was Julie Miller Jones’ creden- honored for her many accom- ington Chapter in 1981 as a tials are many—distinguished of the National Nutrition plishments as an inductee into charter member. In the chap- scholar and professor emerita Division. the James Beard Foundation's ter’s early years, she took an at St. Catherine University in Julie is also active in the As- Who's Who of Food and Bever- active role in the organization‘s St. Paul, Minnesota; scien- sociation of Family/Consumer age in America. leadership, helped start the tific advisor, resource and Science; in the Academy of She writes regularly for news- scholarship fund and now is spokesperson for government Nutrition and Dietetics; and papers and magazines and is helping with the Women in the agencies, businesses, and other the American Society of Nutri- the author of 11 cookbooks, Culinary Arts program. She has entities. Julie is also a scientific tion. including Jewish Cooking in hosted numerous dinners at her reviewer, textbook author, Julie was chair of the Joint America, which won a James home through the years. public speaker, and an active Institute of Food Safety and Beard Award and the IACP/ Joan also sits on the board of member of many professional Nutrition of the U.S. Food Julia Child Cookbook of the directors of the nonprofit Mar- organizations. and Drug Administration and Year Award in 1994. Her book tha’s Table. She’s an advisory But even more, Julie pos- the University of Maryland. The New American Cooking won board member of The World sesses a friendly, down-to-earth She speaks to professional a Beard award in 2005, and An Central Kitchen and cofounder personality and generous spirit. audiences and consumer American Folklife Cookbook won and organizer of Sips & Sup- She has been an engaged, com- groups at least four times a the R.T. French Tastemaker pers, a two-day fundraising mitted member of the Min- month, making more than 275 Award (precursor to the James event that supports Martha’s nesota Chapter since 1997 and local, national, and interna- Beard Awards) in 1985. Joan Table and DC Central Kitchen. served as president in 2013. tional appearances. Her areas is currently writing her 11th These nonprofit organizations She hosts chapter meetings at of expertise include dietary cookbook, King Solomon’s Table: are dedicated to education, her home and enthusiastically fiber, whole grains, food safety The Roots and Routes of Jewish training, and hunger relief for accepts invitations to speak at issues, dietary guidelines, and Cooking, to be published by low-income families in the the chapter’s gatherings. nutrition truths and myths. Alfred Knopf. Washington area. Julie’s professional ac- “For all she’s accomplished, Joan’s culinary talents also Among numerous awards, complishments could fill she is very humble and always translate to television. Her PBS Joan also has received an honor- several pages. She is active in willing to donate her time to a series Jewish Cooking in America ary doctorate from The Spertus the American Association of program for our chapter,” says with Joan Nathan was nomi- Institute of Jewish Learning Cereal Chemists International, Cindy Jurgensen. Joan Do- nated in 2000 for the James and Leadership; a Golda Award where she served as president natelle adds, “It is an honor Beard Award for Best National from the American Jewish Con- and board chair, and in the In- to have her in our group. Television Food Show. gress and a Silver Spoon Award stitute of Food Technologists, Every time I talk to her I learn Joan joined LDEI’s Wash- from Food Arts Magazine. where she served as president something.”

food writer for San Antonio Taste member and co-chair of the Pat magazine from 2010-2011. She New World Wine and Food was co-editor of LDEI’s cook- Festival for nine years. She was MOZERSKY book, Cooking with Les Dames named Woman of the Year by D’Escoffier, and she wrote two the Leukemia & Lymphoma (San Antonio) cookbooks, The Hungry Traveler: Society. In her remarkable culinary Italy, and What’s Cooking, San A native of Canada, Pat career, Pat Mozersky has done it Antonio? received her degree from the all: She’s a past president of Les A student of classic French, University of Manitoba. She and Dames d’Escoffier International, dent of LDEI International in Italian, and Thai cooking for her husband, David, have been a food writer and cookbook au- 2005-2006, she was secretary in three decades, Pat founded and married for 50 years. They have thor, a cooking school director, 2000-2002, first vice president directed Ma Maison Cooking two sons. and the chairperson of notewor- in 2004-2005, and immediate School from 1987-1995. She Through her classes, articles, thy food events on the local and past president from 2005-2006. also developed and starred in a columns, and TV shows, Pat national level. As a food journalist, Pat wrote daily half-hour cooking show in has had a profound effect on Pat was a founding member the Chefs’ Secrets column for 1996-1997—What’s Cooking, generations of South Texans. A of the San Antonio Chapter 23 years for the San Antonio San Antonio? tireless worker for Les Dames of LDEI, where she served as Express-News. She was food Pat co-chaired LDEI’s and locally and internationally, Pat’s president from 1996 to 2001. In editor of San Antonio Woman IACP’s annual conferences in culinary legacy is unmatched addition to serving as presi- magazine from 2005-2013 and San Antonio and was a charter regionally.

SUMMER Quarterly 2015 5 Gone to Market The Roles and Responsibilities of Dames in the Grocery Industry

At the turn of the 20th century, women development manager, project coordina- played an important role in the development tor, cooking school director, global cheese of American food traditions and food busi- buyer, dietitian, chef, baker, grocery magazine nesses, often running neighborhood groceries editor, marketing supervisor, and director from a front room in their home. of consumer affairs. Exhibiting intelligence, In The American Kitchen Magazine in 1900, creativity, and compassion, they stand on the progressive writer/teacher Anna Barrows shoulders of those who came before—women wonders whether grocers “suspect that women who worked their way up the ladder, one rung may yet monopolize their business.” Anna at a time. found the average grocery boy, “somewhat You’ll meet nine dynamic Dames in this aggravating—not knowing pastry flour from article. Grocery retailing is a highly competi- bread flour, or a molasses jug from the kero- tive industry, yet LDEI President Lori Willis sene can.” She said grocer’s wives and daugh- believes business diversity benefits Dames ters were already making decisions and doing and chapters. She says, “The LDEI mission is the work, “and the cooking school graduate one that calls for the suspension of compet- has tried her wings by store exhibits, so why ing interests for the time it takes to make a shouldn’t they manage the store?” difference for others. We have found that this It was a man’s world! Although female- type of teamwork strengthens our ability to friendly, the grocery business was dominated accomplish our goals.” by businessmen. Around 1900, the Retail Grocery stores are rapidly evolving in the age Grocers’ Advocate considered women owners of advanced technology, social media, apps, (usually widows) to be unprogressive. Female and soon—smart shelves. Today’s supermar- clerks were said to offer advantages men could kets, some the length of a battleship, are not: a pleasant attitude; willingness to wait on becoming “socializing spaces” offering lifestyle customers; and the ability to dispense recipes activities. Consider this: grocery stores with and culinary advice. A businessman offers a shifting walls that convert into a restaurant by word of warning—“one woman is enough; night and farmers market by day. It’s an excit- ing time to be a Dame in the grocery world! employing more would be disruptive from all the chatting and laughter.” Susan Fuller Slack Women have come a LONG way in grocery Special thanks to the Dame-writers who collab- retailing, yet there is room for growth. At least orated with me and who conducted interviews: 36 Dames affiliated with the grocery industry Ann Stratte and CiCi Williamson (Washing- perform a myriad of jobs including: product ton), and Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia).

Dames in the Meredith Beeman (Austin) Cindy Chambers (Nashville) Grocery Business Central Market Whole Foods Market, Inc. (those not interviewed) Cooking School Manager Senior Culinary Instructor Erika Bongort (Austin) Nichole Clark (Cleveland) The authors of this story compiled a list Whole Foods Market, Inc. Whole Foods Market, Inc. of 28 Dames who work in the grocery Cheese Monger/Chef Instructor Associate Store Team Leader industry, but were not interviewed. We Certified Cheese Professional regret that, due to space limitations, Patricia Cobe (Chicago) additional Dames could not be featured. Karen Cassady (Dallas) Restaurant Business Magazine H-E-B/Central Market CSP Business Media Manager of seven Cooking Schools

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International LORI WILLIS (St. Louis) Merijoy Lantz Rucker (Nashville) Communications/Special Projects Director of Salud! Cooking School Schnuck Markets, Inc. Whole Foods Market

Women's work is never done, but it’s bringing their voices to the table. As the Director of Salud! Lori Willis, LDEI’s dynamic 25th president, is a communications expert cooking school in Nashville, in grocery retailing. In 2001, she joined Schnuck Markets, a family-owned Merijoy Lantz Rucker has company based in St. Louis with 100 stores in five states. She established a always said, “No matter how communications office, providing expertise in strategic communications; great displays are or how crisis communications; labor/governmental relations; audio/visual produc- fantastic the food is—if no one tion; and trade events. A company spokesperson, Lori merged business knows how to prepare it—it acumen with content creation to produce SchnuckTV internal television will sit on the shelves.” Classes network. Lori served as communications advisor for The Greater St. Louis allow individuals to taste and Food Employers Council and recently, was tapped to spearhead coordina- see items that they might not tion of a special project, Feeding St. Louis. In a culture of collaboration, have tried or might be anxious with classes available five to she works to meet the special needs of St. Louis families, and help them about preparing. Customarily, six days a week. The direc- find the strength to move forward and flourish. Lori affirms, “I enjoy students leave the class and go tor plans and coordinates the working for a company that is committed to charitable giving and helping directly into the store and pur- schedule for content, teaching to eliminate hunger in our community.” chase the ingredients they used. schedules, and assembles class “The food industry has gone through many recent changes,” says Lori. Merijoy believes the future content for over 50 classes. In “We continue to adjust to new food will have a different type of addition, she schedules large legislation, including food labeling cooking student. It appears private events, many for busi- and food safety guidelines, as well as that students are not so much nesses in the area, and private the ever-changing needs of a public interested in cooking items classes and/or team building becoming increasingly knowledgeable that are showstopper recipes classes, which range from 12 about food and beverages. It’s our job, as they are cooking healthy for to 75 hands-on students. and our privilege, to provide food and their families. Today’s students Merijoy believes she is a beverage education for our customers want to know the very basics better teacher because of her and teammates.” of cooking whether it is how position. Whether it is shop- There is an integral link between food to mash potatoes or make ping, prepping for a class, or and health. Lori admits it’s a chal- a chocolate cake. Cooking enjoying a great meal together, lenge for some customers to change to schools conveniently available she knows that the school of- healthy eating habits. She says, “With and open to the public, such as fers the best products available the popularity of the Food Network ours, have a great opportunity for health, taste, and appear- and shows like Dr. Oz, grocers have to appeal to these new cooks. ance. However, on a humor- cheated the learning curve. Customers Merijoy says she is proud ous note, she confesses, “It is are becoming more aware of how to that the cooking school is rather handy to be able to go eat healthy and look for help in their able to incorporate all types downstairs in case you forgot grocery store. We provide food and nu- of students in its classes, and the milk.” trition information through our food sometimes, it is more than The most valuable lesson education program, our chefs, registered dietitians, and pharmacists.” a school. She has met many she learned in her career was Lori says Schnuck is rising to the occasion by growing private brands people and organizations who that “we underestimate our across all categories; sourcing globally; and increasing organic, natural, have inspired her with their abilities—we can do so much and gluten-free foods. She reports a growing interest in authentic, interna- work and energized her to do more than we realize and be tional foods and renewed interest in home cooking. more. This includes: dinners successful at it.” Merijoy is a Lori reveals that grocers enjoy an especially close bond with their cus- to benefit Walden’s Puddle—a person who has a strong inter- tomers. “There is a greater level of trust and an emotional connection that wildlife rescue organization; est in promoting everything develops over food buying. The cooking process almost gives the neigh- Visitation Hospital Founda- Southern and the heritage that borhood grocer a seat at the family table. With that bond, comes great tion who built and maintain a is part of that, including, the enjoyment and great responsibility.” hospital in Haiti for mothers Rucker heirloom peas from A woman’s work is never done, but it seems less like work and more and children; hosting students her garden which are always in like fun when you’re with empowering, remarkable women like Lori. In from Youth Villages; and regu- her home freezer. 2008, she played a key role in forming the St. Louis Chapter, and is a larly providing classes for the past president. Wounded Warriors Project. By Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia) By Susan Slack Salud! has an active calendar

Cathy Cochran-Lewis Janice Cox, RD, LD Tiffany Cunningham Sandra Dych (Austin) (Minnesota) (Austin) (Philadelphia) Whole Foods Market, Inc. Lunds & Byerlys Whole Foods Market, Inc. Whole Foods Market, Inc. Global Marketing, Programs Corporate Dietitian National Specialty Director of Food Product Coordinator Administrative Assistant Demonstration Certified Cheese Professional

SUMMER Quarterly 2015 7 Cathy Strange (Austin) Dabney Gough (Hawaii) Global Cheese Buyer tium of Parmigiano Reggiano and has Marketing Supervisor been awarded the French Order of Whole Foods Market, Inc. Agricultural Merit. Currently she serves Whole Foods Market, Inc. Say “fromage” to Cathy Strange and as New World President (representing "The emphasis and celebration of innovation that you’ll get not only a smile but also an Mexico, Canada, the United States and creates excitement" is one of many reasons Dabney education on “coagulated, compressed, Australia) of the distinguished interna- Gough absolutely loves working for Whole Foods tional Guilde des Fromagers de Saint- and usually ripened, curd of milk Market Kailua, located on the beautiful Windward Uguzon, the most celebrated associa- separated from the whey”—that is to Coast of Oahu. As a marketing team leader, Dab- tion of cheese mongers and specialists say “cheese.” As Global Cheese Buyer ney does all of the marketing for one of the three in France. for Whole Foods Market, with over Hawaii locations of this well-known national chain Cathy’s career has taken her from kids 410 stores in the United States, Canada of stores. Reporting to the to “kids”—as in goat cheese. Before and the United Kingdom, Cathy leads store team leader, her job is to joining Whole Foods Market in 1990, a group of talented regional coordina- coordinate events inside and she was a certified K-12 teacher. “I outside the store, create and tors for the world’s leader in the natural moved into sports administration and food category. nurture community partner- by chance into the restaurant business ships, lead a team of graphic with friends when my mother became designers and demo specialists, ill. The passion for individuals around and work on special projects. food was and is inspiring. That led me After a stint working for the to work with Wellspring Grocery, a Gap, Dabney followed her small company in North Carolina that true passion into the world of food. Her culinary was acquired by Whole Foods Market,” career began with writing cookbooks and as a said Cathy. catering and marketing manager for BiRite Market Some of the projects of which she is in San Francisco. When she moved to Hawaii she most proud are the education initia- worked with Alan Wong, which led her to her cur- tive to establish a profession for Whole rent position with Whole Foods Market. Foods Market’s cheese mongers through The location of her store, Hawaii, gives added the Certified Cheese Professional incentive to use and promote local products. program, the trust with their producer Whole Foods Market supports local producers and partners, the quality of the products for Dabney's store has created the ‘ONO Awards, hon- which she’s responsible, and support oring “delicious” and exceptional products made for traditional production of prod- in Hawaii. Quarterly events for local producers Responsible for purchasing cheese and ucts—helping individuals make a living specialty products—like olives, pasta are coordinated and panel discussions take place to through food and agriculture. exchange ideas on how to better serve the public. and meats, she interfaces with internal Says the Austin Chapter’s past presi- distribution centers to facilitate getting Dabney enjoys the "creative freedom and latitude" dent regarding upcoming trends, “Ven- that she is given, enabling her to dream up "crazy products to their stores. Cathy travels ues in stores will continue to evolve and the world to discover and encourage the ideas and forge partnerships" with purveyors in the include breweries. I think there may area. This is a win-win for everyone involved, espe- world’s great cheesemakers. She helps be award-winning restaurants within a cially the shoppers. The store's customer base is a small producers sustain a profitable retail environment in the future. Trans- diverse mix of families, singles, and seniors, as well business, and also helps to advance the parency and traceability will also be as a very large Japanese contingency. All of these artisanal food movement and to investi- refined. I am able to say, ‘I have been to factors give added fuel to Dabney's imaginative gate the world’s emergent food trends. our farms that produce the milk for our ideas that are employed throughout the store. Her palate and expertise have been great cheeses,’ but how do we get this Another mission of the Whole Foods Market is solicited to serve as judge for the message to the consumer? It will hap- to work closely with the community. Dabney says American Cheese Society competition, pen so easily that in 10 years, it will be the health of their customers is of primary concern the World Cheese Championships, the an expectation for all markets. Respect and the store continues to educate shoppers. School U.S. Cheese Championships, the World for agriculture will evolve and become a tours and cooking classes are popular and serve to Cheese Awards, and the British Cheese part of understanding food at a higher empower customers to eat healthy. Awards. Cathy has been recognized by level for all, not just food professionals. Current trends in the supermarket industry, accord- two of the world’s greatest cheesemak- Younger consumers are demanding and ing to Dabney, include local sourcing, integrity, trans- ing countries. She is the only American knowledgeable, which is great news for parency, gluten-free, and unique offerings like vinyl and non-Italian ever to receive the all of us in the food industry!” records. Yes, you heard it here first, vinyl records! “Coltellinod’Oro” from the Consor- By CiCi Williamson By Ann Stratte

Susan Davidson (Seattle) Joan Donatelle Susannah Frishman- Erica Hanchey, CCS Davidson/Freundlich, Co., (Minnesota) Phillips (Austin) (San Antonio) Inc., President Lund Food Holdings, Inc. Whole Foods Market, Inc. H-E-B Central Market Publishes Restaurant Briefing Cooking School Director, Marketing Editor/Global Product Development Manager Culinary Expert Communications. Theresa Kereakes (Nashville) Whole Foods Market, Inc. Store Baker

8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Dabney Gough (Hawaii) Elin Hansen (Minnesota) Joan Driggs (Chicago) Category Coordinator, Deli & Bakery Editorial Director: Progressive Grocer Lund Food Holdings, Inc. and Progressive Grocery Independent The great-great-granddaughter Stagnito Business Information of a renowned Icelandic mer- chant, Elin Hansen, says she Editorial Director Joan Driggs oversees the iconic Progressive is "proud to carry on in the Grocer media brand that includes print publications, digital media, family business." For the past industry events, webinars, roundtables, and more. Progressive Gro- eleven years, Elin's adopted cer Independent, published six times yearly, focuses on the unique family business has been Lunds needs of independent retailers. & Byerlys, a small upscale chain Called the “voice of the retail food indus- of 27 stores in the Twin Cities try,” Progressive Grocer has been around for of Minneapolis and St. Paul. more than 90 years. Joan says, “The maga- As a Category Coordinator for zine is dedicated to helping grocery retailers Deli and Bakery in the chain’s compete at the highest level. The good news corporate office, Lund Food is that everyone eats, but today consum- Holdings, Inc. (LFHI), Elin ers are getting their food from a myriad of works closely with the buyers to sources…competition for the food dollar promote products of interest at composed salad options for the is fierce. Progressive Grocer is committed to the store level. This is accom- delivering research, tools, and strategies that enable retailers to build plished through special pricing stores. Elin sees Lunds & Byerlys and maintain valuable relationships with shoppers.” and promotions, display activity Joan points out that trade publishing has evolved into numerous and product demonstrations. "moving towards the model of a one-stop shop, whether in store moving parts: traditional monthly print magazines; digital edi- A self-proclaimed “food enthu- tions; newsletters; supporting events; daily digital newsletters; and siast," it is safe to say that Elin or online." One of her depart- ment’s focuses is “figuring out website content. Joan credits her “tremendously talented team,” loves her job. She is charged for their role in successfully executing all projects and deliverables. with carrying forward the com- the millennials and how to cater to them." Fortunately this Progressive Grocer hosts a number of annual conferences and pany philosophy of promoting awards including the Retail Dietitian Symposium, Connected locally sourced foods. Visiting generation “is more interested in cooking on a stovetop than a Consumer Summit, and Multicultural 360 Summit. “Our Top the deli of a Lunds or Byerly’s Women in Grocery Awards are a huge endeavor, and we host an store, you will find a plethora of microwave." Becoming a member of Les elegant event to honor our winners,” says Joan. “We are very much local artisan cheeses and char- a part of the industry we support and strive to stay ahead of what’s cuterie. Most every day, you Dames d'Escoffier was in the cards for Elin. After college, next in grocery retail.” will be able to sample a number Every supermarket wants to carve out a particular niche or empha- of specially selected items cho- she had the opportunity to be an editorial intern (stagi- sis—how it defines itself and what it’s known for. Joan believes the sen by Elin. She is "constantly one-size-fits-all mentality is long gone. “Now, it’s all about differentia- on the lookout for new prod- aire) at Chateau du Fey with Grande Dame Anne Willan tion…For retailers, the challenge is creating loyalty among shoppers. ucts and delights in watching Joan says of her career path, “There was a time in my career when them become successful." (Los Angeles/Orange County) for six months, working under I felt like more of a meanderer than a climber.” Early on she moved It is a goal of Lunds & Byerlys from radio, to satellite broadcasting, to the bottom of the masthead to assist the community towards the guidance of Virginia Willis (Atlanta). After completing a of a food trade magazine. Following a couple of magazine start-ups, healthy purchases. A recently Joan reconnected in 2013 with former boss Harry Stagnito at an launched program, Nourish, kitchen stage at a Michelin one star as part of her training, Elin industry event. She made the switch to his new company, Stagnito has all store departments work- Business Information, to begin her current position. ing with LFHI’s dietitian Janice remained in France an addi- tional year working as a private The new Chicago Dame reveals, “I’ve had some great experienc- Cox (Minnesota) to prepare es…Most people in the industry truly want to serve…I consider and sample in-store healthy chef in Paris. Yes, Elin, your great-great- myself tremendously lucky to be in a position where I am continu- recipes for the consumers. In ally learning and it feels good to be making valuable contributions addition to her daily responsi- grandfather would have been proud! to the industry. In her spare time, Joan is a consumer of books, bilities, Elin recently had the wine, and theater. She loves traveling and spending time with fam- lead on a project to revamp the By Ann Stratte ily and friends. By Susan Slack

Nancy Lazara (Seattle) Mary Martini (San Antonio) Marianne Moore (St Louis) Barbara Ridenhour Metropolitan Markets H-E-B Central Market Dierbergs’ Markets, Inc. (St. Louis) Director, Private Brands Cooking School Manager Creative Director, Culinary Dierbergs’ Markets, Inc. Peg Lee (Houston) Nancy Maurer (Minnesota) Program Director of Consumer Affairs H-E-B Central Market Lund Food Holdings, Inc. Kavita Patel (New York) Katie Rowe (Austin) Event Liasion/Manager; Chef, Recipe Developer/tester Whole Foods Market, Inc. Whole Foods Market, Inc. Retired Cooking School Director Regional Marketing Director Senior Editor––Integrated Media Team SUMMER Quarterly 2015 9 Linda Flannery (Cleveland) Marilyn Markel (Charleston) Specialty Department Manager Culinary Director Earth Fare Southern Season In her teen years, Linda Flannery developed a new phi- Marilyn Markel is the culinary losophy after discovering food has a positive effect on one’s director for Southern Season—a well-being. She realized nutrition fosters not only your own premier destination for specialty good health, but that of family, friends, and community. foods. About 15 years ago, Mari- She said, “I whole-heartedly wanted the best for everyone lyn changed careers to pursue her and proclaimed myself “Ambassador of Good Food,” cam- passion for food. Her professional paigning in a variety of food-based cooking career began at Central businesses.” Market in Plano, Texas, where she The journey ultimately led to her was assistant cooking school man- position at Earth Fare, a specialty ager and a culinary teacher. After supermarket devoted to helping two years, she moved to Chapel customers sustain a healthy life Hill, North Carolina, to establish style. Linda is a Specialty Depart- CLASS—Culinary Lessons at ment Manager with an emphasis on Southern Season. hands-on approach. Marilyn pro- artisan cheese, fine wine, craft beer, Marilyn says, “When the com- vides an exceptional, personalized and organic and Direct Trade Coffee. pany decided to expand, it seemed experience for each guest and chef. Linda’s food philosophy reflects that a natural fit for me to relocate to Known for her attention to detail, of Earth Fare—known for what they Charleston because it’s such a great Marilyn has established her reputa- don’t offer: additives like high-fruc- food community.” Now Marilyn tion as a top cooking school instruc- tose corn syrup, trans fats, artificial colors. Linda says laugh- is responsible for three Southern tor, inspiring countless home chefs. ingly, "My team—all foodies and nearly all women—have Season cooking schools: the flag- A member of IACP, she also writes cohered into a companionable group that sets the bar high, ship store in Chapel Hill; a Mount food articles for magazines. In 2013 and can work and talk at the same time!" Pleasant location near downtown and 2015, she served as a judge for Linda’s responsibilities include ordering and managing Charleston; and another in Rich- the James Beard Foundation Cook- finances, as well as cutting, wrapping, and shelving of pack- mond, Virginia. book Awards. aged cheese. She oversees levels of self-service products like The 40,000-square-foot Charleston Marilyn says, “What I love best is bulk coffee, beans, olives, and frozen, filled pastas. Linda food emporium includes a world- the diversity—we cook something says, “Periodically a new store manager-in-training will spend class wine selection, 380 types different almost every day. We offer about a week with me to become familiar with the functions of artisan cheese, a bakery, deli, healthy classes; a recent offering that this 'business within a business' need to implement for housewares, restaurant, and cook- was meals under 500 calories. I love success." ing school. Additional services like writing recipes and exploring new Linda is vitalized by the vast array of sense-pleasing, color- cooking classes, daily tastings, wine flavor combinations.” ful, aromatic tastes and textures she is surrounded with. “A events, and celebrity chef appear- Marilyn especially likes working great way to spend the day is collaborating on menus, recipes, ances add value to the shopper’s with children, local farmers, and and taste experiences,” she notes. “It is a delight to watch a in-store experience; help create with visiting Dames who teach customer’s face light up with pleasure with a sip or bite of personal relationships; and provide classes. On August 1, Grande Dame something unfamiliar—and they trust enough to try.” information about what the store Nathalie Dupree (Charleston) Linda challenges herself to maximum efficiency of move- has to offer. will offer a brunch class at 11 a.m. ment—at times, trying to beat the clock. She says to visual- The large cooking school, with Sarah Graham (Charleston) was ize the process, “I get an image of dancing a lively dance marble counter tops and a Viking Marilyn’s assistant manager when while juggling. One must constantly assess and prioritize.” kitchen, seats 48 guests at long the store first opened. Marilyn adds, Linda visits food trade shows, gourmet stores, and cheese tables; the open kitchen is roomy “I learn so much from my own staff shops, noting merchandising and positive customer service enough for 16 for hands-on classes. and visiting chefs.” strategies. She says future trends have buzzwords like tradi- Demos are projected on TV screens Southern Season promotes “enthusi- tional, old world, artisan, homemade, and natural. Linda overhead. asm for great food, passion for the art and others who work hard to bring non-fabricated food Marilyn’s responsibilities include of entertaining, and a belief in South- back to the grocery isles experience public support. “Shop- coordinating staff, planning classes ern hospitality.” Marilyn concludes, ping becomes a symbiotic relationship between those that and events, and arranging for cook- “There are more budding foodies to- sell and those who buy," says Linda. “If we all work togeth- book signings and visiting chefs. day and that trend will continue. It’s er. there will be less packaging to end up in the landfill.” She teaches many classes herself now cool to be into food.” By Susan Slack through demonstrations or the By Susan Slack

Charlotte Samuel Claire Sullivan (Hawaii) Merrilyn Tauscher Karen Vanarsdel (Nashville) (San Antonio) Whole Foods Market, Inc. (Minnesota) Whole Foods Market, Inc. H-E-B Central Market Hawaii Coordinator, Purchasing Lunds & Byerlys Culinary Instructor Culinary Nutritionist & Public Affairs FoodE Expert/Product Juliette Webb (Nashville) Development Whole Foods Market, Inc. Culinary Educator/Food Stylist

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Lynn Logg (Philadelphia) Corporate Chef Wakefern Food Corporation-ShopRite As Corporate Chef of Wakefern Food Corpo- ration-ShopRite, each year Lynn Logg devotes time on a project that she is most proud of doing. ShopRite is a big supporter of the New York City Food & Wine Festival and as such, hosts “The Grand Tasting-ShopRite” event. Lynn manages all the menus and logistics for the tasting, which is held over three days and attended by approxi- mately 12,000. She states, “It’s an incredible ef- fort, supported by her wonder- fully talented culinary team.” Her initial responsibility at ShopRite was the management of hands-on cooking classes in L-R: Satomi Goo, Dabney Gough, Dorothy Colby, and a Whole Foods assistant. L-R: Hawaii Dames 40 stores, which provided value Soleil Fusha, Lori Wong, Dianne Vicheinrut, Kay Tokunaga, and Hayley Matson-Mathes. Kathi Saks to customers and stores. These prepares for a pesto demonstration. L-R: Pamela Boyar and Jan Yap—chair of Hawaii’s Food Day hands-on programs, presented project. Cheryl To, the owner of PacifiKool (ginger syrup), demonstrates refreshing drinks made by a chef and a registered dieti- from ginger. Photos by Hayley Matson-Mathes tian nutritionist (RDN), have become a win-win situation. Presently, they have around 115 Food, Fitness, and Fun in Hawaii RDs who develop their own community-based programs, which focus on the company-wide By Jan Yap (Hawaii) Cheryl To's refreshing Pacifickool ginger drinks. Farmers’ market organizer Pamela nutrition/health and wellness initiatives. All around the demonstration tables little Boyer, and Liholiho's wellness teacher Lynn’s scope of responsibility has been enlarged hands held up tiny cups. The kindergarten- Jan Yap had dueling Vitamixes of green and enriched to include the development of the ers shouted, "More green smoothies please!" smoothies whirling as they competed to company’s corporate catering program which and "This was my best day at school." whip up the next batch for the hungry entails: financial growth, menu development, Another child, after eating a new food said, children. Dames showed the students how program development, marketing, and training. "I've never tasted ulu [breadfruit] before!" to take curly kale and dinosaur kale, then The company envisions that their new “go to As part of the Green Tables Initiative, the add spinach and banana to make break- market” strategy will lead to more success and Hawaii Chapter ushered in Food Day 2014 fast. For dessert, Whole Foods Marketing that the next big deliverable for its membership with a Food, Fitness, and Fun Day, on Director Dabney Gough added local will be a catering training program and onsite October 17 at King Liholiho Elementary mangoes and papaya to sweetened chia catering coordinators at retail. The goal is to build School in Honolulu, Hawaii. seed pudding. Satomi Goo of the Tea a team in the stores to focus on catering sales. Out on the field, PE teachers moved Chest helped pass out the pudding. The The best advice Lynn received was from a sous students through parachute games, obstacle kids loved it! chef whom she worked with very early in her courses, aerobics, and relays. Inside, Dames In addition to the talented chefs, many career. “He told me that you need to walk before shared food samples based on produce the more hands came together to make Food you run when it comes to cooking.” Learning kids had grown in their class garden beds Day a success: food purveyors and Possie that there is a process and a need to master the (and hoped to grow again). The Dames Badham and Tish Uyehara supplied basics was great advice that Lynn applied in taught the students how to cook, eat, and specialty ingredients for the tastings, and culinary school and during her kitchen years in enjoy fruits and vegetables. An ulu tree Hayley Matson-Mathes, current LDEI both in-and-off premises catering, and when she hanging with fruit in the school courtyard Third Vice President, volunteered as of- moved into management positions for a family inspired Chef Matt Young and Dianne ficial photographer. Jocelyn McCann's owned, high-end gourmet retail marketer. Along Vicheinrut, general manager of Hula Grill, generous donation of her restaurant the way, with promotions and extensive experi- Waikiki to create baked ulu fries with ci- kitchen at Eat Honolulu gave the Dames ences in the field, she accepted new roles and lantro-coconut dipping sauce. Chefs Kathi time and space to do food prep. acquired additional knowledge and perspectives Saks and Jenny Johnson added sundried The event was partially funded by singer in the distribution segments, including those as a tomatoes to basil and spinach for a delicious Jack Johnson's Kokua Hawaii Foundation in brands manager. pesto spread, which Dorothy Colby served appreciation for a Food Day publicity table One of Lynn’s personal goals is to develop a cu- atop Kathy Matsunaga’s Sweet Revenge hosted by the Dames at his Honolulu sum- linary curriculum in partnership with the Boys & focaccia. Culinary consultants Kay Toku- mer concert. Jack also provided a stipend Girls Club of America or another youth organiza- naga, Soleil Fusha, and Lori Wong guided for Chef Matt Young through Chef's in the tion. She hopes to give their members the skills students as they squeezed honey-mustard, School—part of their garden and nutrition they need to shop for healthy ingredients and ranch and green goddess dressings onto school initiative, Aina in Schools. Food, prepare affordable good-for-you meals for them- miniature lettuce and tomatoes. "I didn't Fun and Fitness 2014 was a hit! The kids at selves and their families. Lynn is on the Board know you could make your own salad dress- Liholiho School, from kindergarten to fifth of the Philadelphia Chapter as its corresponding ing," commented a child. grade, fearlessly ate tomatoes and joyfully secretary; she became a member in 2012. There was an embarrassment of healthy sampled cilantro while building good eating drinks. Students couldn't get enough of By Dottie Koteski habits and creating tasty memories.

SUMMER Quarterly 2015 11 Master Chef Escoffier with Eugène Herbodeau and personnel in kitchen of the London Carlton Escoffier Hotel. Looking Back on a Legacy By Susan Slack A look back at the fall 2006 nection to Escoffier including: (Charleston) issue reveals a terrific six-page Annie Boutin-King (Washing- article, “Focus on Auguste Es- ton), Dolores Snyder (Dallas), In 1835, French historian Alexis de Tocqueville took coffier,” by Barbara Tober (New and Betty Fussell (New York). note of the American propensity to form associations. York). Known as the “King of Former Quarterly Editor June He wrote, “Individual powers working in concert Chefs and Chef of Kings,” he Hayes (San Antonio) covered could accomplish more than when working in isola- is the namesake of Les Dames Escoffier’s cookbooks, still tion.” Les Dames d’ Escoffier International’s collective d'Escoffier International. referenced today, and how they Jane accomplishments are making history, and it is vital In her article, Barbara ad- were influential to Dames. dressed the significance of Es- Mengenhauser (Washington) to record them through written documentation in the coffier’s influence on LDEI and reviewed The Scavenger’s Guide to Quarterly magazine. Our historical records measure affirmed, “To celebrate the Great Haute Cuisine —an entertaining LDEI’s growth and development, and they are infor- Man is a worthy goal for our tale about outdoorsman Steven mative and educational to our members, our commu- organization.” Carol Mighton Rinella’s walk-on-the-wild-side nities, and to historians. The Quarterly archive dates Haddix (Chicago) reported on to assemble esoteric wild game back to 2001 and is housed at www.ldei.com—an the “enlightened” Escoffier panel for a classic, 45-course Escoffier discussion that highlighted the feast. Barbara’s excellent feature invaluable repository of LDEI records. From time-to- Chicago Chapter’s 25th an- is as relevant today as it was nine time, a review of past issues helps us understand that niversary celebration. You can years ago, and if you haven’t read we are part of a still-unfolding story and something read meaningful narratives from it yet, I recommend pulling it larger than ourselves. several Dames on their con- up at the LDEI archive.

Escoffier chats with protégé Eugène Herbodeau—the Carlton Hotel's cuisine de chef after Escoffier's 1920 retirement. Herbodeau and Chef Paul Thalamas were Ecoffier's literary executors and co-wrote his biography. Lithograph of the chic Café Riche kitchens in Paris, 1865, which resemble the famous Parisian Restaurant du Petit Moulin Rouge where Escoffier worked after apprenticeship.

12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Musée Escoffier de L'Art Culinaire August Escoffier’s birthplace in Villeneuve-Loubet Surtout Fait Simple; on the French Riviera is now a museum dedicated Keep it Simple! to his life and career. It houses a library, culinary artifacts including sugar and chocolate sculptures, The contributions of Georges Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935 culinary equipment, and priceless ephemera like are as relevant today as they were 100 years ago. A visionary, he restructured the professional hotel kitchen and simplified the the room-size collection of rare Escoffier menus, canons of haute cuisine. Subsequent to service in the Franco- many beautifully illustrated. They are a rich Prussian War as chef de cuisine at Rhine Army Headquarters, resource for learning about Europe’s social and Escoffier directed the kitchens of Europe’s greatest luxury hotels during the Belle Époque, e.g., Hôtel Ritz Paris, and London’s cultural history. Michel Escoffier is President of the Savoy, and Carlton. Organization was also Escoffier’s métier; he Auguste Escoffier Foundation and the Escoffier restructured the brigade de cuisine system, basing it on military- museum. style hierarchy with a top-to-bottom chain of command. Culinary tasks were codified and delegated to specialists within stations, like an assembly line. Escoffier’s kitchens resembled a well-run military unit with discipline, teamwork, profession- alism, and grace under fire. Fine restaurants still adapt these principles for their kitchen production systems. Escoffier ran a tight ship, banning smoking and alcohol. His grandfather taught him the importance of savoir vivre; in turn, he required good manners, cleanliness, and pride in appearance from his brigade. According to his great- grandson Michel Escoffier, "He introduced the hat and neckerchief to prevent sweat drops from dropping into the preparation." Escoffier phased out extravagant French service (à la fran- çais), rooted in medieval tradition. For each course of a for- mal meal (usually two or three), a large assemblage of dishes was arranged over the table at once time. A maître-d’hôtel organized the event; cooks were back-of-the-house players in a secondary role. Escoffier came to prefer Russian service (à la russe) with eight to ten courses (of one or two dishes), served in sequential order. A waiter passed each course, placing a portion of food on the diner’s plate. Or individual plates might be filled and served from the kitchen. Flamboyant table displays and excessive food garnishes were out. Escoffier elevated menu writing to a fine art. The 19th century restaurant reviewer Nathaniel Newnham-Davis wrote, “…had he [Escoffier] been a man of the pen and not a man of the spoon, he Escoffier’s kitchen: would have been a poet.” Escoffier considered the menu, always decorated chaud-froid in French, “a summary of the cook's work and programme for presentation. In the brigade system, he separated the the gourmand." With hotelier César Ritz, he introduced prix fixe garde manger station from and à la carte menus—a novelty in luxury hotels at the time. Es- the hot line. He identified coffier’s improvements meant less complicated menus, faster meal guard manger’s basic cold service, and lighter dishes reflecting his favorite guiding principle: sauces and named many surtout fait simples—“above all, keep it simple.” garnitures used in cold food presentation. In 1914, Escoffier samples Christmas Did you know that August Escoffier is credited for puddings before sending creating a steak sauce, the olive pit remover, and a them to the French soldiers during World War 1. Chef potato slicer? Monsieur Dario dell' Antonia, former Escoffier consults with President of Musée Escoffier de l’Art Culinaire, kitchen staff. To Monsieur Escoffier: A handwritten shared these facts with BC Dame Cate Simpson in note of thanks from an interview in the winter Quarterly 2007, page 12. Australian soprano Dame Nellie Melba in 1914 for creating Pêche Melba. He created Melba Toast for The Quarterly editor would like to thank Lori Willis, Mary her (when she was dieting) Chamberlin, the Escoffier Foundation and Museum, Sarah and Pêche Melba (for the Larson (Triumph Education), and the Auguste Escoffier School times she was not). The of Culinary Arts for photos and other contributions. same year Escoffier forms a committee to assist families of chefs sent to war.

SUMMER Quarterly 2015 13 St Louis Chapter Escoffier dinner at Restaurant at the Cheshire: L-R Front Row: Michel Escoffier and Karen Mitcham- Stoeckley. Back Row: Chef Rex Hale and LDEI President Lori Willis. Photo by Curt Dennison. Escoffier Michel Escoffier with culinary students. Photo: Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Art. The Legacy Continues Every autumn, LDEI chapters host a ciples d’Escoffier whirlwind month of dinners and celebra- worldwide, and Les tions honoring Escoffier’s October 28th Amis d’Escoffier. birthday, his life, and achievements. The For his ongoing London Chapter is busy planning a 2015 contributions, he Escoffier dinner at the historic Institute was inducted into of Directors. It is owned by the Crown ACF’s American Estate and is a landmark of London’s great Academy of Chefs Georgian Heritage. Sue Carter (London) Culinary Hall of says it’s located almost directly across from Fame. where the Carlton Hotel once stood. This Auguste Es- is where Escoffier first added Pêche Melba coffier’s influence to a menu. More news from Sue: London’s endures, in part, to his masterwork Le honoring Michel’s great grandfather and newest honorary member, Chef Kim Guide Culinaire (1903), a repository of Karen’s journey in discovering her own Woodward, has been appointed head chef classical techniques, 5,000 recipes penned very special connection. at the Savoy Hotel. “She is the first woman in chef's narrative shorthand, and invalu- When she was 18, Karen discovered a chef in the history of the Savoy Hotel to able historical information. Escoffier dusty recipe ledger— written in French— reach such a position, thus breaking the trained over 2,000 chefs and he wanted in a handmade trunk in the family’s attic. Pyrex ceiling!” Exciting, indeed! Le Guide to be a useful kitchen “tool.” The recipes belonged to her paternal Escoffier’s great-grandson, London As you peruse Escoffier’s seminal work, grandfather, Axel M. Blumensaadt, who resident Michel Escoffier, stays actively you’ll soon realize the path to learning traveled from Denmark to France to study involved with many of LDEI’s events. has just begun French cuisine when he was 16-years-old. Born in Paris, he is a former telecom- In 1996, Michel published an account Fast-forward fifty years—Karen was munications executive who spent years of his great-grandfather’s life: Auguste ready to translate the recipes and write in Tunisia and Morocco with the World Escoffier: Memories of My Life by Au- a cookbook so she moved to a medieval Bank and the United Nations. His exten- guste Escoffier (John Wiley & Sons). village in Provence for six months. It was sive travels fostered an acute awareness of Laurence Habert Escoffier, Michel’s a place she loved and had visited many the legacy left by his great-grandfather, late wife, translated it into English. The times. There she met Executive Chef Max which led him to work with partners to Monterey Chapter holds her memory in Callegari who, with great enthusiasm, develop a multimedia professional culi- high regard, voting yearly to maintain her became her co-author. As they translated nary education program. LDEI President posthumous membership. Mary Cham- the recipes, Max began to suspect that Lori Willis said, “August Escoffier’s com- berlin (Monterey) graciously provided young Alex had studied with 19th centu- mitment to lifelong learning and teaching copies of the memoir for chapters during ry Master Chef Auguste Escoffier. In the influenced some of the greatest names in the St. Louis Conference. quest for proof, Karen met with Michel Escoffier who confirmed the theory after culinary history and helped shape the way From Escoffier to Today: we imagine our family recipes today.” Mi- careful investigation. Karen’s grandfather chel follows in his footsteps by mentoring St. Louis Celebrates! had been a culinary student of Michel’s The St. Louis Chapter hosted a special and providing support to future culi- great grandfather! Michel gave his stamp dinner last October at the Restaurant narians. In April 2010, he entered into of approval by offering to write the book’s at the Cheshire for 55 members of the an historic affiliation with the Auguste foreward. The Provençal recipes from Cu- food community. Guests of honor were Escoffier Foundation and Museum, and linary Legacy are translated and updated restaurateur/Executive Chef Karen with Triumph Higher Education Group for today’s chefs. The book transcends Mitcham-Stoeckley (St. Louis), co- who launched the Auguste Escoffier time, connecting the 100-year-old recipes author of A Culinary Legacy from Escoffier School of Culinary Arts and the Escoffier of a young Escoffier-trained chef of the to Today, and Michel Escoffier, historian Online International Culinary Academy. late 1800s to the culinary endeavors of and museum curator. Executive Chef Rex Michel is also active with other nonprof- his granddaughter, a classically trained Hale prepared a five-course Escoffier meal its bearing the Escoffier name—Les Dis- chef of Provence in the 21st century.

Karen Mitcham-Stoeckley’s special dinner in Louisana, Missouri, celebrated the April launch of her new cookbook. Michel Escoffier, Dames, journalists, and collegues gathered around a handmade red oak table for a multicourse meal. As they dined, guests listen to music from Provence, and Michel shared family history and his views of culinary arts then and now. Karen’s Pine Nut Tart. Photos by Curt Dennison.

14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International ickery-Davidson Devany V ickery-Davidson Devany V

Charleston Church. Wisteria Bridge. (L-R): Charleston Chapter President Jennifer Goldman and Conference Chair Paige Canaday Crone

Carla Hall Keynote Speaker It is fitting and proper that Les Dames d’Escoffier the Ashley River, Lowndes Grove is an original King’s By Ann Stratte gather for their annual conference in the “Culinary Grant property and only surviving plantation on the (Washington) Capital of the South.” Established in 1670, the port Charleston Peninsula. This optional event celebrates Carla Hall will be the city of Charleston has been a mecca of luxury goods. the local food and wine culture with a silent auction keynote speaker for the The good life was celebrated with all that was legal designated for scholarship funds. Charleston conference. and much that was illegal—bringing us to our Pro- LDEI President Lori Willis, on Friday morning, Carla is a co-host of ABC’s hibition-era theme of Doin’ the Charleston! With the officially opens our conference with a “Hootie Hoo” popular lifestyle series “The Charleston Chapter’s refrain of “come early, stay late,” to Dame Carla Hall, co-host of “The Chew,” and a Chew,” seated alongside much has been planned with this calendar in mind. “Top Chef” competitor, entrepreneur, author, and restaurateurs and “Iron Take a front row seat and explore all the treasures this passionate health and wellness advocate. Then gather Chef America” stars Mario historic peninsula has to offer. your toolkit for two days, which will be saturated with Batali and Michael Symon; Optional pre-conference tours include travel to Ameri- History, Hospitality and How-To. Friday ends with entertaining ca’s only tea garden and working plantation in the Lower a classic Lowcountry Boil and Pig Roast at Brittlebank expert Clin- Forty-Eight. Or cast your net with waterman Mark Park where the Ashley River flows to meet the Cooper ton Kelly; Marhefka of Abundant Seafood and shrimper Cindy River on their journey to the Atlantic Ocean. Rise and and health Tarvin for a Shem Creek sustainable seafood experience. shine as we gather for the Green Tables Breakfast and and wellness Bring your green thumb to GrowFood Carolina and breakout sessions aligned with the 3H’s of Doin’ the enthusiast tour DirtWorks incubator farm, or if history is your Charleston. Lunch not only restores but the Legacy Daphne Oz. Carla is best muse, travel back in time and tour McCrady’s Restau- Awards Luncheon celebrates that which we do best: known as a competitor on rant—still serving after 227 years. McCrady’s historian- honor LDEI’s investment in tomorrow’s leadership by Bravo’s “Top Chef,” where in-residence will feed your passion for the past with educating, mentoring, and informing for today. she won over audiences an insider’s look at a 1740s kitchen and the Heyward- Then it’s off to the salons for reinventions and brand with her fun catch phrase, Washington House (guess who slept there?). building; changing landscapes in craft beverages and “Hootie Hoo” and her For those Dames NOT attending the Leadership social media; and conversations grounded in the philosophy to always cook Forum, a full-day seminar takes place at the 18th cen- Southern region—the place, the people, and the food. with love. Carla’s ap- tury rice plantation home of the Middleton family. A On Saturday evening, it’s time for the Dames who proach to cooking blends scholarly discussion of Carolina Gold Rice will be led soar to become the flappers who roar as we celebrate her classic French training by Dr. David Shields, Professor of Southern Letters, during our Roaring Twenties-fashioned, Grande and Southern upbringing and Glenn Roberts—a visionary and heirloom-grain Dame Awards Dinner and Banquet. for a twist on traditional cultivator. Read more about the event on the back Come Sunday morning, no worries—we won’t favorites. She is commit- cover of this Quarterly issue. Explore the Gullah/ leave you high and dry! If you stay a while longer, ted to health and balance Geechee heritage, unique to South Carolina, North we’ll arrange a proper send-off of Bloody Marys and in everyday living. Carla Carolina, Georgia, and Florida, with native tour Biscuits sweetened by the warm embrace of Charles- has been a member of guide Alfonso Brown—author of The History Press ton-hospitality and your sister Dames. bestseller, A Gullah Guide To Charleston. the Washington Chapter Gather together as the opening reception sets the Paige Crone, Chair of Les Dames d'Escoffier stage for Autumn Affair, the annual fundraiser of Jennifer Goldman, President since 2000, and she is also the Charleston Chapter that takes place at Lowndes Deidre Schipani, Advisory Committee a member of the New York Grove Plantation. Majestically set along the banks of Susan Slack, Plantation Tour Chapter.

SUMMER Quarterly 2015 15 An Evening of Indian Culinary

Education and Culturalences throughout Exchange the world, Margret organized By Suzanne Brown (Atlanta) the event with Indian native Chef Archna Becker, an instructor of regional cuisines and Did you know there are 65 varieties of lentils owner of the Bhojanic restaurants of Atlanta. indigenous to India? And, when you think of Ambassador Kumar gave a short presentation beautiful saris elegantly draped around Indian on the history of India followed by a fash- women, chances are you would be surprised to ion show that included four friends of Mrs. find none in sight when traveling to certain parts Kumar—all from different regions—who of India. Saris play an important role in women’s modeled and talked about the traditional at- fashion, but there are other types of traditional tire from their homeland. attire such as the shalwar kameez––an elegant, After the educational, cultural exchange por- long, brocade tunic over slacks. Food, tradition, tion of the evening, Dames were able to fully and culture differ from region to region, and appreciate the sumptuous array of regional the Atlanta Dames gained new insights into the cuisines. They arranged small portions of the history, flavors, and tastes of India during their prepared dishes in compartmentalized, tradi- recent Global Culinary Initiative (GCI) event: tional Indian plates––starting with the spiciest “Culinary Heritage from the North, South, East, and ending with the cool flavor of yogurt. and West Regions of India.” The Dames experienced an evening of India’s Editor’s note: Suzanne Brown is a former culinary heritage at the home of Indian Ambas- LDEI international president and founding sador and Consul General Ajit Kumar and his chair of the Global Culinary Initiative. wife, Margret Kumar. A culinarian who has presented educational dinners for global audi-

OPPOSITE PAGE: Murukku––savory, crunchy Indian snacks. Ambassador Kumar, Margret THIS PAGE: L-R: Margret Kumar shows Stacy Zeigler, Kumar, Chef Archna Becker, and Suzanne Dale DeSena, and Sandra Bank how to fill small Brown at the Atlanta GCI cultural event. puris––thin, crisp hollow puffs. Ashley Mitchell displays Dames enjoy the display of beautiful Indian her meal. To enjoy the taste and flavor of each dish, garments. Dames and guests sample the Indian food is best served in separate sections. Ashley addictive Indian appetizers and snacks. A Mitchell, Angie Mosier, and Nancy Erickson fill their variety of pulses, including beans, lentils and nine-compartment dinner plates with Indian specialties. peas. Photos by Travis S. Taylor, Atlanta

Out of Africa: Foodways of the Gullah-Geechee Culture By Susan Slack (Charleston) begins the conversation with an overview of the historical connection the Gullah- The Global Culinary Initiative helps Dames Geechee have to West Africa. Jonathan was to explore global cultures and food customs raised in a small Lowcountry community and to examine how these influences take on near the S.C. Sea Islands where his grand- culinary relevance in our own countries,” says parents were independent rice farmers. Global Culinary Initiative Chair Sandy Hu He graduated with a degree from the Art (San Francisco). “In Charleston we'll have a Charleston artist Jonathan Green. Chef Matthew Raiford. Chef Kevin Mitchell. Photo by Jonathan Institute of Chicago in 1982, and received unique opportunity to trace West and Central Boncek. an honorary doctorate from the Univer- African foodways through the extraordinary sity of South Carolina in 1996. The book, contributions of slaves.” lina’s rice-based economy made it one of the Gullah Images: The Art of Jonathan Green, The Gullah-Geechee peoples—called richest colonies in the eighteenth century; was published in the same year. Head of the Gullah in the Carolinas and Geechee in Charleston was one of the wealthiest cities nonprofit Lowcountry Rice Culture Project, Georgia and Northern Florida—are one of and the most fashionable. Slave chefs and Jonathan’s humanitarian and civic contribu- the oldest, surviving Af- cooks played an important role in shaping tions are extensive. He explores the history rican cultures in the U.S. Lowcountry cuisine, infusing it with African of Carolina Gold Rice in the exhibition, Their enslaved ancestors, of ingredients and preparation methods. This Unenslaved: Rice Culture Paintings. Jonathan various ethnic groups, were session looks at the building blocks of sees the world through the eyes of an artist, brought from Africa to work Gullah-Geechee cuisine: Caribbean influenc- splashing images with bold, vivid colors on coastal plantations and es, cooking techniques; seasonings; African and intricate patterns. Writer Pat Conroy the Sea Islands—a cluster of barrier islands heritage foods like benne (sesame), field writes in Gullah Images, “The Gullah people along the Eastern coast of South Carolina peas, and okra; and abundant local ingredi- depicted in Jonathan Green's world look like and Georgia. Through isolation, their diverse ents like seafood and grits. Our expert panel they got dressed while staring at rainbows.” traditions blended into a hybrid African- members have deep, abiding connections to CheFarmer Matthew Raiford American culture with strong African Gullah-Geechee culinary traditions. Jonathan Green grew up eating Reezy Peezy (Sea Island red characteristics evident today. South Caro- , a nationally acclaimed and awarded professional artist, peas and rice), Tomato Pilau, and Hoppin’ 16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Leveraging Brock Circle Helps Differentiate LDEI from Other Organizations

By Lori Willis (St. Louis) The Board convened an ad hoc panel of Brock Circle members to brainstorm concepts as a first step in determining where Brock Circle funds could be invested in keeping with the mission to enhance con- ference education and beyond to the benefit of the greater membership. Carol Brock (New York); Patty Erd (Chicago); Mary Ellen Griffin(New York); Suzanne Brown (Atlanta); and Alice G. Forman (Seattle) joined me with Immediate Past President Beth Allen (New York) to weigh in on the issue. We came up with some very promising ideas. The brainstorm gave rise to a strong interest in branding, public relations, and social media centered around Annual Confer- ence, professional development, workshops, and demonstrations. The ideas include: earned educa- tion credit at colleges and univer- sities, new chapter development, greater leveraging of our heritage programs (Legacy, M.F.K. Fisher, Global Culinary Initiative, Green Tables) and more. Some ideas can and, in some cases, are being addressed within the normal operating budget. Others seem perfect for the fund, but will likely take some time. But, our diligence will pay off. As Past President Suzanne Brown said, “Objectives, strategies, and tactics for the Brock Circle funds will give us the tools needed to better market and differentiate LDEI from other culinary organizations”. John—heritage dishes that descended er’s kitchen cleaning collards, spinach, In keeping with the trust placed in the Board to from African slave kitchens. The and kale; it was completed at the manage the fund, we are working very carefully and Coastal Georgia chef/farmer will Culinary Institute of America, Hyde deliberately to determine where the money is best discuss agricultural contributions Park, where he earned two degrees. spent and where it can do the most good—for the of Africans in the Lowcountry and Kevin is chef instructor at the Culi- most people. Currently, we are looking into part- share his culinary expertise on various nary Institute of Charleston within nerships for professional development among our components of Gullah-Geechee cook- Trident Technical College. His work members and educational opportunities that will add ing from “the roots up.” Matthew is a embraces delicate French cuisine, yet meaningful experiences at Conference, which can be proponent of the seed-to-table move- reveals sumptuous soul food flair. shared across the entire membership. At some point, ment; his mantra is, “fresh, organic, Kevin discussion will include the we will reach out to the full Brock Circle member- and local.” He and his sister, Althea development of Charleston’s Gullah ship for their thoughts. In the meantime, if you are Raiford, are the sixth generation to cuisine, its influences, ingredients and a member and would like to weigh in with ideas, own certified, organic Gillard Farm. dishes. “Trident Tech has an endur- please email me at [email protected] with the Located near Brunswick, it was estab- ing interest in Gullah culture,” says subject line, “BC BIG IDEA.” lished by their third great-grandfather Marion Sullivan As a reminder, current guidelines dictate that we in 1874. The siblings are testing (Charleston). In 2009, Kevin ran a test kitchen at the spend only 40 percent of funds collected annual- strains of Carolina Gold Rice and the ly. That amount varies greatly and is slowly growing original southern peanut—introduced college for Chef Charlotte Jenkins’ acclaimed cookbook, Gullah Cuisine. over time. I am pleased to report that Brock Circle by Africans to North America in the currently has 44 members (including chapters); In April, he was chef-coordinator 1700s. Mathew graduated from The it is strong and growing. If you, or your chapter, for Nat Fuller’s Feast, the illustrious Culinary Institute of America in Hyde hope to join us in creating lasting legacies through Park, NY and has a certificate in Eco- re-creation of an 1865 Charleston the Brock Circle, please access the Brock Circle logical Horticulture from UC Santa banquet hosted by African-American information online at LDEI.org or call Greg Jewell Cruz and The Center for Agroecology chef Nat Fuller at his restaurant, The and request a form. We thank all of our current and Sustainable Food Systems. Bachelor’s Retreat. It was the first members and for those who have not yet made the The culinary training of Chef occasion to bring black and white decision to join, please know that the more the Kevin E. Mitchell, CEC, BCA, patrons together to break bread and fund grows, the more we increase our opportunities CFSE, ACE, began in his grandmoth- celebrate the Civil War’s end. to connect and make a difference.

SUMMER Quarterly 2015 17 Fifth generation winemaker, Karl D. Wente. First varietally labeled Chardonnay in America: Wente Bros Pinot Chardonnay 1936.

Where would Chardonnay be today without the Wente family? No other California winemaking family has had a greater impact on the wine world than the Wente family headed by founder Carl H. Wente. Their singular focus on producing world-class wines and their willingness to share their knowledge with their neighbors, helped make Chardonnay the world’s best-selling wine. The family’s connection with Chardonnay began more than 130 years ago when second generation winegrower Ernest Wente persuaded his father Carl H. Wente to import cuttings from the vine nursery at the University of Montpellier in France. Around the same time, Ernest Wente also sourced budwood from the Gier Vineyard in Pleasanton. He planted these two sources in his family’s Livermore Valley vineyard, and over the next 30-40 years, selected vines that showed the most favorable traits, which he replanted to establish the Wente clone of Chardonnay. After the repeal of the National Prohibition Act (Volstead Act) in 1933, Herman and Ernest Wente released the nation’s first varietally labeled Chardonnay, a 1936 vintage from these early plantings. Over the succeeding years, Ernest continued to upgrade the Wente planting, establishing a name as owner of the finest Chardon- nay vineyards in California. In the 1940s and ’50s, winegrowers throughout the state, such as Stony Hill vineyard, selected cuttings from Ernest. In 1960, things really exploded for the Wente family. The Guide Michelin, the renowned French wine and food publication, re- printed a Los Angeles Times review that called Wente Chardonnay the finest white wine in America, equal to the great white wines of France. This helped establish the Wente Family as “California’s First Family of Chardonnay.” Today, Carl H. Wente’s great-great-grandson and fifth generation winemaker, Karl D. Wente, continues to pay homage to his family legacy by producing classic and elegant styles of Chardonnay from the Livermore Valley and Arroyo Seco. And as California’s First Fam- ily of Chardonnay, Wente Vineyards celebrates National Chardonnay Day every year in May. Open to the public, this year’s event on May 21 will draw consumers from Livermore Valley and the surrounding Bay Area to the winery to taste the portfolio of Wente Chardonnays Dame Carolyn Wente with her family. Photo by Sam Harnack and toast to the number one selling wine varietal in the U.S.

18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Chardonnay grapes from estate vineyards. Founder Carl H. Wente. Fifth generation winegrower, Karl D. Wente examines the Chardonnay vines.

“Chardonnay really is an amazing grape Nth degree.” It is a full-bodied Chardon- Single Vineyard Chardonnay comes from that grows well throughout many regions in nay with aromas of ripe apple, apricot, and the single vineyard Riva Ranch in Arroyo California, each with its own distinct region- nutmeg. Small Lot Eric’s Chardonnay, Seco and is a beautifully rich, yet balanced al characteristics,” says Karl Wente. “In fact, named after Karl’s father, is fermented and style of Chardonnay. it is perhaps the grape where the winemaker aged in stainless steel and does not undergo “As California’s First Family of Chardonnay, has the most influence in defining style.” malolactic fermentation to create a great bal- we have a long history of working with other On National Chardonnay Day, Wente ance between fruit and acidity. The Morning wineries that have been using the Wente clone Vineyards will highlight four different styles Fog Chardonnay, named for the morning since we developed it,” says Carolyn Wente, of Chardonnay. coastal fog pushed by Pacific wind streams fourth generation winegrower and CEO. I think The Nth Degree Chardonnay, is crafted into the bowl of the San Francisco Bay, of- my great-grandfather would be proud to see my from select blocks which receive the utmost fers tropical fruit that is balanced by vanilla family’s continued commitment to passing on care and attention and are farmed to “the and a touch of toasty oak. The Riva Ranch what we inherited to the next generation.”

SUMMER Quarterly 2015 19 chapter NEws Janet Burgess (LA/OC) Atlanta | Austin | Birmingham | Boston | British Columbia, Canada | Charleston | Chicago Cleveland/Northeast Ohio | Colorado | Dallas | Hawaii | Houston | Kansas City/Heart of America London, England | Los Angeles/Orange County | Miami | MINNESOTA | Monterey Bay Area | NASHVILLE New York | Northeast | Palm Springs | Philadelphia | Phoenix | San Antonio | San Diego San Francisco | Seattle | St. Louis | Washington ATLANTA shared stories Gayle Skelton from her life growing up It has been quite an exciting first quarter for our Atlanta in France, Chapter. We kicked the year off in January with our annu- living in Cali- al Culinary Futures event, hosted at AmericasMart. Guests fornia, start- enjoyed live entertainment, savored delicious tastings ing a wine by some of Atlanta's finest chefs, and raised more than importing $20,000 toward our scholarships to further the education company and of high school culinary students. everything in between. There was no doubt as to why she is the subject of two docu- mentaries: A Year in Burgundy and A Year in Champagne, which was released in early March. L-R: Atlanta Dames Barb Pires Taste testing and photography Martine Saunier (San Francisco) (Secretary), Tamie Cook (VP Phi- have begun. We are partner- joins the Birmingham Dames for lanthropy), Holly Chute (VP Pro- Champagne at Café Bottega. ing with The Community Birmingham Dames Gia McCollis- grams), Shelley Pedersen, CPCE Food Bank of Central Alabama (Past President), Gloria Smiley ter (L) and Jan Gautro (R) welcome (Treasurer) and Gayle Skelton, to produce a pamphlet to be Martine Saunier. CPCE (President), inducted at distributed to Food Bank clients the January chapter meeting. focused on kid-friendly snacks and main dishes children can Jordan Fessehaie, 2014 Aspiring prepare during the summer when school lunches aren’t avail- Culinarian Award Scholarship able. The goal is to distribute it in the last backpack distribution Recipient, and Dame Mary Moore at Culinary Futures, which raised $20,000 toward the scholarship.Photos by Mr. Travis S. of this school year according to committee members Brooke Taylor, Atlanta Bell, Jan Gautro, Ana Kelly, Angela Schmidt, Becky Stayner, Susan Swagler, and Rachel West. Later in January, we celebrated our first chapter meeting During Food Media South, Birmingham Dames held a pop-up of 2015 with a New Year of Food, Friends, and Learning. event at Alabama Booksmith on February 27 to welcome Charles- The Georgian Club provided a gorgeous setting as we rec- ton Grand Dame Nathalie Dupree and her co-author Cynthia ognized the service of our outgoing board and committee Grubart. Gena Berry (Atlanta) also joined in the meet 'n greet members, and welcomed our new leadership. In February, Dames were in full force at the Georgia Organics 18th Annual Conference & Expo. Mary Moore, CHARLESTON Cook's Warehouse; Rebecca Lang, Southern Living; and Susan Slack Tamie Cook, Tamie Cook Culinary Productions, LLC, The Charleston Chapter celebrates the outstanding accom- led the culinary sessions and were featured on the Georgia plishments of two members—Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree Organics blog The Daily Dirt. and Marion B. Sullivan. As role models and mentors, they For our March chapter meeting, 10th Anniversary Dinner share their gifts and talents in ways too numerous to men- & a Movie, Cathy Conway and Jenn Robbins of Avalon tion. Nathalie, the doyenne of Southern cooking, was recently Catering provided a lovely film-inspired French meal. Syn- inducted into Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America chronicity Theater, founded by four women, was the perfect during the James Beard Foundation Awards Ceremony and Gala venue to screen our feature film The Cheese Nun. It is the Reception at the Lyric Opera House in Chicago. One of five story of Mother Noella Marcellino, O.S.B., an American inductees this year, she joins a cadre of the most accomplished Benedictine nun who earned her doctorate in microbiology and influential culinary professionals in the country. Nathalie is and studied cheese in France on a Fulbright Scholarship. busy working on her next book, which will be a memoir. Dame Marion was awarded The Laura Hewitt Culinary Legend Birmingham Award for contributions to the food culture and foodways of the Martha Johnston American South. She was honored during the Opening Ceremo- nies of the BB&T Charleston Wine + Food Festival, hosted by the Birmingham Dames took a bike ride through the historic Honorable Joseph P Riley––Charleston's mayor––and Dame Gil- Norwood neighborhood in downtown Birmingham on lian Zetter, the festival's Executive Director. "In her typical gener- March 15. After working up an appetite, everyone gath- ous fashion," remarked Deidre Schipani, "Marion praised those ered at Little Savannah Restaurant for a potluck brunch who came before, paving the way for excellence and recognition hosted by Maureen Holt. The Champagne was chilled of the Southern cooking canon: Chefs Donald Barickman, Frank and the chips nice and crispy when Pardis Stitt hosted Lee, and Louis Osteen.” In a toast to the festival, Marion noted, fellow Dames at Café Bottega on March 16 for a visit with "it is in its teenage years when anything can happen." Martine Saunier (San Francisco) of Martine's Wines. She 20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International On March 9, members visited the new Cleveland Culinary Launch Kitchen, an incubator for culinary businesses, located at the Western Reserve School of Cooking downtown. They toured the shared commercial kitchen, equipped and licensed for myriad culinary purposes, such as catering, bottling, and frozen food products. Dames enjoyed a light family-style meal and cooking demo by owner Catherine St. John. On April 14, Cleveland Dames will speak as part of the women's series at Felice Urban Cafe. They will introduce guests to LDEI and its educational and philanthropic mission and share stories of their own women-owned businesses. Dames Shara Bohach, Carol Hacker, Paula Hershman, Beth Knorr, and Marilou Suszko will speak at the event. Dallas Jennifer Brightman Moschel Our Dames had a festive, post-holiday potluck party on Janu- Twenty-four new Charleston Dames, Back row, L-R: Melissa Clegg, Tanya ary 11 at the home of Denise Glazer. Denise was so kind to Gurrieri, Carly Paume, Belinda Smith-Sullivan, Katherine Frankstone, Marie open up her beautiful home to us, and the Dallas ladies arrived Stitt, Kerry Marhefka, Jenny DiBenedetto, Lisa Burnett, Cappie Peete, Kelly Franz, Kim Alexander, Emma Lesesne-Booth, Vonda Freeman, Kate Connor, with all kinds of wonderful foods to share. By the way, there was Jen Kulick. Seated in front, L-R: Mary Zapatka, Stephanie Barna, Lisa Brophy, also great wine! Kim Ortego. Not pictured: Liz Bacon, Beth Price, Amalia Scatena, Gina Stouffer. In March we met at the Green Grocer on Greenville Avenue Photo: Devany Vickery-Davidson. to enjoy a variety of healthy-style juices and talk business. Then Local Dames gather at the Charleston Food + Wine Festival, Front Row: Libba it was off to Luscher's Red Hots for someT exas-style Chicago Osborne, Donna Gustafson, Jennifer Goldman, Gillian Zettler, Paige Crone, Jeanne DeCamilla, Nicki Root. Middle Row: Celia Cerasoli, Paige Crone. Back grub! They serve the best sausages around, and our mouths Row, L-R: Lisa Buzzeli, Teresa Taylor, Andrea Limehouse, Patricia Agnew, Na- are still watering! Chef-owner Brian Luscher is the husband of thalie Dupree, Marion Sullivan, Deidre Schipani. Photo: Paige Crone. Dame Courtney Casson Luscher. In April we met at Tara Anderson's home for light snacks and In March, the Charleston Board and membership committee wel- to plan the remainder of 2015. Our fundraising committee is comed 24 new members. The induction meeting was held April 14, planning a late summer Jazz Brunch on August 30, which will followed by two orientation sessions for new members. Seventy-three be open to the public at 3015 Trinity Groves. Plans include a Charleston Dames are working hard to plan the upcoming October silent auction, action stations by our own chefs, and live jazz conference. music. The Dallas Dames are thrilled to be working with a new style of event and look forward to showcasing all of the Dame Chicago talent in the Dallas-Ft. Worth area. Julie Chernoff We've had a busy start to 2015! After a post-holiday potluck at the HAWAII home of Programs Chair Portia Belloc Lowndes in mid-January, we've Hayley Matson-Mathes since read Ruth Reichl's Delicious! in our Dames Who Read book club. The Hawaii We enjoyed a book-themed dinner at Amy Morton's Found Restaurant Chapter, in and learned how to optimize social media at a program held at Barbara collaboration Glunz' boîte, The GlunzT avern. We held a series of networking pot- with Pastry lucks at the homes of Jeanne McInerney Lubeck, Suzanne Florek, and Chef Michelle Rebecca Wheeler, and savored a special, All About Ramen, four-course, Karr-Ueoka of family-style dinner at Bill Kim's Belly Q. We look forward to welcom- MW Restaurant ing our newest members at our Annual Meeting and Dinner at River in Honolulu, Roast on June 15. gathered March 9 for a fundraiser dinner Cleveland to benefit the Good Eats Shara Bohach Scholarship fund estab- Cleveland Dames kicked off the year as the inaugural guests in the tast- Front row, L-R: Chef Lee ing room of Portside Distillery, Cleveland's newest craft beer and rum Anne Wong, Fern Yoshida, Dorothy Colby. Second distillery on the East Bank of the Flats. Dames enjoyed a tour of the row: Possie Badham, distillery, followed by a spirited rum and beer tasting. Elisabeth Iwata, Chef Nicole Anderson, par- tially obscured, Lori Wong, Hayley Matson-Mathes. Back row: Melanie Kosaka, Holly Hadsell El-Hajji, Chef Michelle Karr-Ueoka, and Satomi Goo. The dinner entrée was Chef Nicole Anderson’s Beer Braised Cleveland Dames visit Portside Distillery, L-R: Paula Hershman, Jean Mack- Short Rib with Oxtail Jam. enzie, Elaine Cicora, Melanie Seal, Maggie Harrison, Joan Pistone, Marla Childhood memories and Monzo-Holmes, Gloria Kemer, Marty Nagele, Carol Hacker, Linda Flannery, nostalgia inspired Michelle Shara Bohach, Cynthia Eakin, Beth Davis-Noragon, and Maria Isabella. Photo Karr-Ueoka to create Kula by Beth Segal Strawberry “Shave Ice.”

SUMMER Quarterly 2015 21 lished by Joan Namkoong. The dinner showcased Hawaii’s fe- Harmon Jenkins. Jo Anne Bander introduced Nancy and male farmers including Lesley Hill's Wailea Agricultural Group, Carole Kotkin joined the author for a spirited conver- which produces Heart of Palm. The fundraiser concept was the sation about her delicious new book Virgin Territory: creation of Lee Anne Wong, executive chef /partner Koko Head Exploring the World of Olive Oil. On April 13, Green Café, and also Chef Michelle. Nicole Anderson—Chef De Cui- Tables Chair Claire Tomlin organized a field-fresh farmers’ sine at Koko Head Café—joined them in the kitchen to prepare market fundraiser benefiting the Dames at the new farm- the multi-course course dinner. ers’ market in downtown Miami. The scholarship’s goal is to nurture Hawaii’s future professionals On April 18, we enjoyed a Dames’ appreciation afternoon planning to study agriculture or the culinary arts at a college or tea prepared by none other than James Beard award- university in the continental United States, with hopes they will winning chef Michelle Bernstein. Outreach Committee return to Hawaii to enhance the quality of food in the islands. Chair Nancy Ancrum and Susan Brustman organized The Hawaii Community Foundation administers the scholarship. the elegant event, which took place at Seagrape, Michelle's much-acclaimed new restaurant. HOUSTON PALM SPRINGS LDEI Third Vice President Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) Barbara Lowell visited the Houston Chapter last fall during their Member L'Affaire Chocolate was an affair to remember for close to Roundup, which was held at Shade, a restaurant owned by Dame 100 members and fans of LDEI's Palm Springs Chapter on Claire Smith. February 22. A sumptuous luncheon was served in the gar- den of the elegant La Spiga Ristorante where views of the San Jacinto mountains were surpassed only by the artistry on the plate. Following a delicious lunch with branzino and heirloom tomatoes, guests were invited to sample desserts from a 30-foot long table laden with decadent chocolate goodies. Sweets created and do- nated by some of the area's finest chefs and restaurants included ev- erything from tiny, ganache- covered bonbons to intricate tarts and towers of Hayley Matson-Mathes (wearing polka dots, back row) with Houston mousse. Dames.Hayley Matson-Mathes with Houston Dames at Shade restaurant. A spirited live MIAMI auction offered up original art- Ellen Kanner work, jewelry, The Miami Dames are in full bloom. On March 8, ourT ropi- trips, dinners, cal Brunch at the Miami Beach Botanical Garden was a sold- and sports- out success. Chaired by Morgan Nims, this year's theme gave themed out- farm-fresh a French twist. Thirty-two Dames volunteered their ings. Keynote Putting final touches on the Palm Springs time and expertise for “Du Jardin a speaker Diana Chapter’s sumptuous L’Affaire Chocolat buffet La Table.” Twenty-one restaurants, are, L-R: La Spiga owners Dame Connie Cul- von Welanetz traro, her husband Chef Vince Cultraro, and caterers, and companies with wines Wentworth and spirits created a bright-flavored, Dame Bonnie Barkley. donated and Palm Springs Dames, L-R: L’Affaire Chocolat sophisticated menu including zesty signed a copy Chair Janet Harris, Lisa Wherry, and Diana von Bloody Marys, made-to-order om- of her book, Welanetz Wentworth. elets, potato pancakes with home- Chicken Soup made gravlax, and irresistible pastries. for the Soul Cookbook, for each guest. Even better, the afternoon netted Best of all, the event raised more than $15,000 in scholar- enough to fund one of our scholar- ships. Two of last year's recipients, young women now both ships to a deserving woman entering employed in the culinary industry, spoke warmly of Les the culinary field. Dames d'Escoffier and gave heartfelt thanks for the finan- April brought a month's worth of cial assistance they received. “This is why we do what we tasty events. On April 7, we part- do,” said President Lisa Wherry. “We are women helping nered with Slow Food Miami to pres- Tropical Brunch Chair Dame other women achieve their dreams.” ent food historian and author Nancy Morgan Nims.

22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International San Diego We had two events that focused on mentoring women in the Teresa Palzkill culinary fields. The first was a dinner hosted by Co-President Tanya Holland at her restaurant, Brown Sugar Kitchen. Several San Diego Chapter members are enjoying a variety of learning and Dames writers joined the five recipients of the Karola Saekel networking events. Highlights include a January tour of White Labs to Craib Excellence in Food Journalism Fellowship for a lively dis- learn about the cultivation and production of yeast for use in beer and cussion over the restaurant's signature dish, Chicken and Waffles. wine, followed by a scrumptious lunch at a nearby Indian restaurant. Second, Jerry Di Vecchio, aided by Barbara Haimes, spear- February provided headed a new series of seminars with San Francisco Dames and a croissant-making students in the Culinary Program at City College of San Francisco. class at Cardamom The first, held on February 20, featured chefs Emily Luchetti, Su- Bakery and Café. We zette Gresham, and Patty Unterman. Two more, one focused on welcomed students food production, the other on community service, are scheduled. and instructors from The students were very enthusiastic, asking lots of questions. Southwestern College culinary and baking programs as guests to Seattle this event. All present Nicole Aloni had the opportunity Our January meeting was an open event with a mix of Dames to participate in the and culinary colleagues. Seattle has long had a rich history as it process of making relates to outstanding food and beverage, but it is only recently delicious almond that distilling has been added to the local mix. With Jason Parks croissants while as our guide––the owner enjoying a variety of and distiller of Cop- Cardamom's delec- perworks Distilling––we table sweet and savory learned what sparked the croissant specialties. In recent boom in Seattle March Karen Contre- distilling while sampling ras, owner of Urban some of Copperworks' Plantations, held a wonderful craft spirits. seminar for Dames They provided tours of and guests showing the distilling space and the best methods to snacks were provided create a kitchen gar- by Pike Brewing and den. All in attendance Cynthia Nims. Dame Mineko Moreno's San Diego sushi class. had the opportunity The Seattle Wine L-R: Carol Blomstrom, Kate McDevitt, Brenda Hol- and Food Experience to create their own lis, Mineko Moreno, Teddie Lewis (in red), Marie potted garden filled Kelly. Back: Michael McHugh of Festivities, Tracey (SWFE), the premier with herbs and edible Sturgis, Karen Contreras. showcase for wine and New Children's Museum Garden, L-R Front food in the Northwest, flowers to take home! Row: Karen Contreras, Teddie Lewis, Mineko In addition, Dames was produced by Jamie Moreno, Brenda Hollis, Teresa Palzkill. Back: Marie Peha on February 22 at are networking at Kelley, Kate McDevitt, Dana Chaldekas, Carol monthly meet-ups Blomstrom, Mary Papoulias-Platis. Seattle Center. Hundreds held throughout San of attendees experienced Diego County to a rollicking afternoon of Dame Jamie Peha, of Peha Promotions, facilitate member access. The opportunity to meet and develop both food and wine highlight- ed by a unique section produces the Seattle Wine and Food personal and professional relationships is invaluable. Amy Dibase, Experience (SWFE). Dames Amy Muzyka- Executive Chef at Tidal Craft and Catch, graciously provided a beautiful featuring Dame-run McGuire and Anne Nisbet at SWFE. venue overlooking Mission Bay for our annual dinner and winter board businesses. SWFE is of director meetings. also one of the largest The chapter commitment to provide mentoring and financial support to individual benefactors to Les Dames d’Escoffier Seattle, this year women pursuing careers in the culinary field continues with the awarding providing our chapter with a $15,000 donation. of a scholarship to Jazmine Jackson as she continues her culinary educa- On March 23, there was a general membership meeting in which tion at the Art Institute, San Diego. Congratulations to Jazmine. an entirely new process for inducting new members was put into place for the first time. Starting this year, our chapter adopted San FRANCISCO a more open, application-style process for becoming a member. Fran Gage We are proud to be making the process more transparent and look forward with much excitement to the five accomplished new San Francisco Dames had a special treat at this year's Ancestral Pot members coming on board as a result: Kathleen Finn, Claudia Luck dinner, held on January 12, at Kikkoman's offices, courtesy of Hogue, Alison Leber, Naomi Kakiuchi, and Sheri Wetherell. Helen Roberts. Many Dames from around the country, in town for the show, joined us. Although they didn't have kitchens to prepare dishes, they did share stories about family recipes. ST. LOUIS On January 31, our chapter co-sponsored a Green Tables Event at UC The St. Louis Chapter partnered with the 501c (3) non-profit Davis called, Mead and Honey, a Beekeepers’ Feast. The multi-course EarthDance Organic Farm School to create a scholarship for dinner featured honey in its many flavor profiles. Ann Evans helped or- farmers-in-training. Through hands-on education in the fields, ganize the event and designed the menu. In addition to some delicious market training, and classes from practicing farmers, apprentices food, the evening reminded all that bees play an important role in the learn the skills of organic agriculture. EarthDance is located pollination of many crops. on the historic Mueller Farm in Ferguson, Missouri. The farm SUMMER Quarterly 2015 23 sustainably grows food, farmers, and community, one small farm at a time, through hands-on education and delicious experiences. In the aftermath of the recent unrest in Ferguson, the farm school focused its resources to provide healing help for the community. The chapter is thrilled and honored to announce that it has donated $5,000 toward the EarthDance Farm & Garden Apprenticeship Program. The generous contribution will help EarthDance grow future farmers––the local good food movement’s next crop of leaders and contributors. St. Louis Chapter President Cecily Hoffius, co-owner of Ces and Judy’s Catering, says the membership is excited for the opportunity to partner with Earth- Dance. “Several of our members volunteer at the farm. They brought us the idea that eventually developed into an opportunity for a scholarship to their part-time apprenticeship for people interested in learning about urban farm- ing.” The members of Les Dames are not only donating funds to support the farmers-in-training, but their time and talent, too. The two organizations are teaming up for a series of on-farm Taste & Tour events that will introduce new supporters to the organization and promote EarthDance’s annual fund- raiser, Farmers Formal. For more information, go to: www.earthdancefarms. org/ and www.earthdancefarms.org/what-we-do/grow-farmers/ WASHINGTON Drew Faulkner Our chapter hosted a reception on March 28 for visiting Dames during the IACP Conference held in Washington March 27-30 at the Marriott Renais- sance hotel. Chapter President Drew Faulkner and Katherine Newell Smith organized the reception. About 50 Dames from across the United States attended along with three potential new members who may start a North Washington Dames at IACP, L-R: Chapter Presi- Carolina Chapter with the help of Nathalie Dupree (Charleston), LDEI dent Drew Faulkner, Katherine Newell Smith, Alan board secretary Sharon Olson (Chicago), and CiCi Williamson. We had the James, and Amy Riolo. L-R: Mitch Berliner, Debra Moser (Washington), Karen Levin (Chicago). generous and delicious support of wines from Amy Hoopes (San Francisco) L-R: Judith Fertig (Kansas City), Crystal Leach, of Wente Vineyards and the following Washington Dames: Theresa Morrison Katherine Ackerman (Dallas), Catherine Lucas of Boutique Vineyards; flowers, regional cheeses, beef tenderloin and ham (Miami), Nancy Eisman (Los Angeles). Photos by biscuits from Susan James and Alan James of Stonyman Gourmet Farmer; CiCi Williamson hand-crafted salamis from Debra Moser and Mitch Berliner of Meat Crafters; and hummus and pita from Gladys Abi-Nijm of Lebanese Taverna.

in memoriam Thoughtful, gracious and kind, Jonell was also hardworking. Jonell Nash (New York) She had a passion for quality cooking and baking, which she By Michele Scicolone (New York) learned from her parents, and focused her efforts on teaching a generation of cooks that traditional African-American foods Jonell Nash, former food editor of Essence Magazine, teacher, could be flavorful without being high in fat and sodium. Jonell and cookbook author, was a trailblazer in the quest to reduce rates of childhood obe- died after a short illness sity, particularly among black and Hispanic youngsters who are on February 27 at the age at higher risk than whites. of 72. Her first book, Low-Fat Soul, was published in 1996. In it, she Born in Delhi, Loui- advised readers to, “boot the fat, boost the flavor,” by substitut- siana, Jonell’s family ing smoked lean turkey and fish for bacon and ham hocks and moved to Detroit where by using lard and butter sparingly. Publisher’s Weekly wrote that she grew up. After receiv- her second book, Essence Brings You Great Cooking, was written ing a home economics with two purposes: to celebrate African American food tradi- degree from Wayne State tions in all their diversity and to create a cookbook that would University, Jonell began make nutritious home cooking appealing to the everyday cook. teaching at Cody High The reviewer stated that she had succeeded on both counts. School in Detroit. Later, A longtime member of Les Dames New York, Jonell had been she was hired by Co-ed active on many committees, including most recently Green magazine, published by Tables. She was also a generous benefactor, financing a scholar- Scholastic, and moved to ship in the name of Chef Edna Lewis. This scholarship is being New York City. Her next renamed in honor of Jonell Nash. Contributions can be sent position was in the test to Les Dames D’Escoffier New York, Attention: Susan Lowry, kitchen at Woman’s Day and in 1984, she became the food edi- HMGT, 300 Jay Street, Brooklyn, NY 11201. Please note on tor of Essence Magazine where she remained until her retirement the check or money order, “In honor of the Jonell Nash Memo- in 2008. rial Scholarship.” 24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International San Antonio Celebrates Meals on Reels in Grand Style

Tables cloaked in lavender and auber- gine linens—radiant with candlelight and flowers—welcomed 185 guests to a historic venue, The St. Anthony Hotel for the chapter fundraiser, Meals on Reels, on February 26. Guests enjoyed a cocktail reception, cooking demonstrations, and a multi-course meal prepared by chap- ter members—the leading ladies of San Antonio’s culinary scene. The elegant menu featured Lobster Bisque; Grilled Quail with Rose Petal Sauce; Grapefruit and Pink Peppercorn Sorbet; and Julia Child’s Beef Bourguignon. A Kerrygold cheese course was also served. Dessert included Chocolate Ganache on Crushed Pistachios with Floral Cream. Each course was paired with wine and a culinary-themed movie clip. Silent and live auctions fueled the festivities. The event generated a profit of $77,000, which will be used for scholarships, Green Tables, and other programs. Special thanks are extended to all the participants, to the food and beverage donors, and The St. Anthony Hotel and culinary staff. It was a dazzling event and by all accounts, a great success! This year the San Antonio Chapter (LDEI- SA), is celebrating its twentieth anniversary.

Elegant tables and swag brought glitz to the evening. Stepping out with Les Dames. Red Carpet Glam: LDEI's 2003 Grande Dame Rosemary Elton Kowalski, who shares the honor with Abigail Kirsch (New York). L-R: Double Feature—the mistresses of ceremonies. Ready for a close-up: Grilled Texas Quail in Rose Petal Sauce. Live and silent auctions brought in half the revenue for the evening. A special framed photo of Auguste Escoffier was among the auction items. An Oscar Performance! San Antonio’s Dames-chefs and Chef Michael Mata and his staff from the hotel did a superb job!

SUMMER Quarterly 2015 25 Member Milestones Dottie Koteski (Philadelphia) Birmingham March to salute The Mansion Katherine Cobbs has developed 75 her contributions on Turtle Creek recipes for her new cookbook, Classic to the culinary Cookbook with Southern Cooking, from the Editors of community. A Chef Dean Fearing. Garden & Gun (2015); it features contri- faculty member of www.truetexas- butions from many of the finest chefs in The Culinary In- cusine.com our region. www.katherinecobbs.com stitute of Charles- Tina Wasserman's ton, Marion was newest book, En- Annette Thompsonwas elected Presi- recipe editor for Marion B. Sullivan trée to Judaism for Dotty Griffith dent of the Society of American Travel Heritage––Chef Families-Jewish Cooking and Kitchen Writers at their Sean Brock’s James Conversations with Children was a finalist Reykjavik, Iceland Beard Foundation at the IACP Cookbook Awards in the eB- convention. An- award-winning ook category. This is the first interactive nette visited over cookbook. cookbook for children with adult recipes 130 barbecue res- Nancie emphasizing sustainability and historical taurants and chose McDermott's facts. It's also available in hard copy. to include about 75 latest cook- Karol Wilson of the state’s most , a publicist and gourmet book, Simply Veg- food writer for The Dallas Examiner will storied joints in her Nancie McDermott Annette Thompson etarian Thai: 125 be doing a regular column for the Dallas new book, Alabama Real Thai Recipes Barbecue. It is being promoted by the magazine Modern Lifestyles. www.exam- debuted in the spring. The new edi- iner.com/topic/dallas Alabama Tourism Department. tion of Real Vegetarian Thai, is mostly www.annettethompsontravel.com vegan and gluten-free, and introduces Liz Baron and husband, Jim, owners the “Meatless Mondays” generation to of Blue Mesa Grill and TNT/Tacos BOSTON Thai cuisine’s delights. Nancie has book and Tequila, opened two new sites: the Denise Herrera, events around the south this summer, Quadrangle in Uptown, Dallas and the VP of Operations along with classes at Southern Season. Mosaic in San Antonio. Their concept, for Burtons Grill, www.nanciemcdermott.com which originated with TNT in Austin, was recognized as centers on taco and tequila bars and a a 2015 Women CHICAGO full menu offering of fresh ingredients. of Influence. In Donna Battle Pierce, a 2015 recipient of www.tacos-and-tequila.com 2004, Herrera a Harvard Nieman Foundation Visiting Houston partnered to create Denise Herrera Fellowship, is researching historical black Marie LeNôtre the contemporary recipes and cooks for a cookbook about , American grill concept in her role of the Southern food that moved North founder and direc- executive chef. She currently oversees all during the Great Migration. Since spend- tor of the Culinary branches of operations and exemplifies ing January on campus, Donna returns to Institute Lenôtre, what it is to be a successful woman in Harvard in July to complete research at has written a new the restaurant industry. the Schlesinger Library. book, Appetites: A http://skilletdiaries.com/ Memoir (Bright Sky CHARLESTON Press), which shares Marie LeNôtre Colorado Marie’s childhood Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree has Carol Fenster dreams and adolescent struggles, the been inducted into Who's Who of Food promoted her pains and joys of love in France, and the & Bever- latest gluten-free way she made the famous culinary name age in cookbook, 100 Best of LeNôtre her own. America. Quick Gluten-Free She was Recipes, on the Philadelphia hon- PBS-TV show, Deanna Segrave-Daly, along with Dallas ored in Creative Living Carol Fenster Dame Robin Plotkin and two other Chicago with Sheryl Borden. dietitian foodie bloggers, last fall held on May She demonstrated how to bake with the first ever Blog Brûlée: “Setting Fire to 4 during Nathalie Dupree and Cynthia Graubart coconut flour, prepare black quinoa, and Better Blogs” conference for twenty regis- the James make gazpacho without bread as a thick- tered dietitians and healthy food bloggers. Beard Foundation Awards. Nathalie and ener. www.carolfenstercooks.com Planning is already underway for a 2015 Cynthia Graubart (Atlanta), both James Blog Brûlée event, Beard cookbook award winners, co- Dallas which will provide authored Mastering the Art of Southern Dotty Griffith is co-authoring a cook- further relationship Vegetables, released March 1 by Gibbs building. Smith. book with Houston chef and restaura- teur Sylvia Casares. The Enchilada Queen New York Marion B. Sullivan, a Charleston Cookbook, A Tex-Mex Tour of the Rio founding member, received the Charles- Grande is scheduled for publication in Melanie Young ton Wine + Food Festival's 2015 Laura fall 2016. Dotty is the author of nine published Fearless Hewitt Culinary Legend Award in other cookbooks, including editor of Fabulous You! Lessons Melanie Young

26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International on Living Life on Your Terms. Melanie has whole grains. She is a veteran journalist and WASHINGTON earned certification as an Integrative Nutri- food writer, and has contributed to Gourmet, Cathy Barrow won the 2015 IACP tion Health Coach. Saveur, and Gastronomica. Single Subject Cookbook Award for Mrs. Northeast SAN ANTONIO Wheelbarrow’s Practical Pantry ( W.W. Jamie Cruz of Spring- Norton). https://www.youtube.com/ Marty Gonzalez was awarded the Excellence watch?v=8wH7Vq7Rtgo dell Farm was appoint- in Service Award by the American Diabetes Monica Bhide ed to the American Association of San An- announces her latest book– Farm Bureau Fed- tonio. In her 14 years of –A Life of Spice––released May 2015. It is eration National Young service to this chapter, filled with essays that reflect food, culture

Farmer & Rancher she has served in many and life. This is her sixth book. Committee. Members capacities including as Cynthia Glover, principal of Smart Works, of the committee study Jamie Cruz fundraising chair, as A Marketing Company, was selected as a farm and food policy community leadership consultant to KGRW & Associates archi- issues and participate board chair, and as a tects and the local government of Howard in leadership training national committee County, Maryland. She will work on a exercises. member. Marty Gonzalez project intended to make Howard County a Jenny Johnson is an Denise Mazal, chef/ premier, aging-friendly community for baby Emmy Award winning owner of Little Gretel boomers and their caregivers. executive producer, Restaurant, was selected Aviva Goldfarb has become a monthly entertainment, and life- as 2014 Businesswom- contributor to The Washington Post’sonline style television personal- an of the Year by the column, On Parenting, writing about food ity based in Boston––a Jenny Johnson Boerne, Texas, Cham- and family. Read her first post here: www. Top 10 Market. This ber of Commerce. washingtonpost.com/news/parenting/ year Jenny started her own production com- After 20 years in a retail wp/2015/04/01/should-family-dinner- Denise Mazal pany to create the “Dining Playbook” offer- business, in 2009 she trump-extracurriculars/ ing an inside guide to the best restaurants, opened a restaurant that features her Czech, nightlife, and celebrity chef interviews. Pati Jinich has begun her fourth consecutive Austrian, and German heritage. Denise season of Pati’s Mexican Table on PBS-TV Denise Landis was recently nominated for the Best Chefs and public television stations nationwide. launched the Cook’s America Award. The new 13-episode season began airing on Cook this year. She April 4. is the founder and San Francisco Michelle Poteaux publisher of the online Amy Hoopes, Chief received a RAMMY (Res- magazine. Denise has Marketing Officer taurant Association Metropolitan Washing- been testing recipes for and Executive Vice ton) nomination for Pastry Chef of the Year. The New York Times President of Global This is the third nomination for Michelle, for twenty years and Sales for Wente Family the pastry chef/owner of the contemporary Denise Landis French restaurant Bastille and Bistrot Royal, is a contributor to the Photo by Dame Eva Estates, was a recent newspaper’s “Dining In/ Baughman. a cozy bistro. The awards ceremony was held honoree at the posh, Amy Hoopes Dining Out” section. 2015 Marketing Hall of on June 7. Her current book is Femme awards ceremony in New York City. Nora Pouillon was featured in the April called Dinner for Eight. Sponsored by Direct Marketing News, the 2015 Washingtonian magazine in a three- Dorie Greenspan’s event acknowledges and celebrates women’s page article, "Nora the Explorer." She cre- newest publication, progress in marketing. ated the first certified organic restaurant in Baking Chez Moi, Andrea Nguyen shares secrets for making the U.S. Her memoir, My Organic Life: How focuses on French irresistible bahn mi in The Banh Mi Hand- a Pioneering Chef Helped Shape the Way We home-baked desserts. book—selected as one of the best cookbooks Eat Today was just published. Nora is hosting The New York Times of 2014 by National Public Radio. The book a Legacy Awards winner in 2015. calls the award-winning Dorie Greenspan presents traditional and modern recipes for Amy Riolo released her sixth cookbook The author of nine cook- the popular Viet sandwich. Published July Ultimate Mediterranean Diet Cookbook: Har- books a “culinary 2014, the book is in its fourth printing. ness the Power of the World's Healthiest Diet guru.” Dorie is a special Vietworldkitchen.com to Live Better, Longer in April 2015. www. correspondent for Bon amyriolo.com Appétit magazine and a Sara Wilson, managing frequent guest on Na- partner of Market Hall Susan Soorenko was nominated for the tional Public Radio's All Foods and president Laurey Masterton Golden Amulet Award, Things Considered and of Manicaretti Italian presented during the Women Chefs & The Splendid Table. Food Imports, was in- Restaurateurs awards gala, “Women Who ducted into the inaugu- Inspire.” The award was founded in memory Maria Speck shares Maria Speck ral class of the Specialty of Laurey, who always wore an amulet filled Photo by Somerby Jones. classic, comforting Food Association's Hall with 1/12th teaspoon honey—the lifetime recipes in her award- of Fame. Individuals are Sara Wilson production of one worker bee. Carla Hall winning, new cookbook titled Simply An- honored whose “accom- (Washington) co-hosted the event. cient Grains. She makes cooking with ancient plishments, impact, contributions, innova- UPDATE: Quarterly grains faster, more intuitive, and easier than tions, and successes within the specialty food In the spring , Sharon Kra- ever before. Maria has a lifelong passion for industry deserve praise and recognition.” mis, a Seattle Chapter founder, was missing in the article on the chapter's 25th anniversary. 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13-0706_LesDamesBrochureAd.indd 2 9/13/13 1:24 PM Reception Held for North Carolina Chapter Formation By CiCi Williamson (Washington) LDEI Secretary Sharon Olson (Chicago), Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree (Charleston), and CiCi Williamson (Washington) traveled to Chapel Hill, North Carolina, on April 20, to give a presentation to a group of women in food professions who are interested in starting a new chapter. Coming from several North Carolina cities, including Chapel Hill, Durham, Raleigh, and Greensboro, were 27 attendees. Colleen Min- ton, Founder and Director, TerraVita Food & Drink Festival, Chapel Hill, organized the event, handled reservations and other details. She secured a meeting room for the group at Flyleaf Books in Chapel Hill, where they viewed CiCi’s LDEI History PowerPoint presentation. Sha- ron, Nathalie, and CiCi addressed the group and helped answer their questions about new chapter formation. An additional 10 women who were unable to attend are also interest- ed in becoming members of a North Carolina Chapter, which would be based in the tri-city area. Nancie McDermott (Charleston) and Jean Anderson (New York) also live in Chapel Hill. As LDEI Secretary, Sharon is tasked with potential new chapter formation and has helped update the LDEI Chapter Formation Handbook. CiCi—the fall and spring LDEI Quarterly editor—and Nathalie flew to Birmingham in 2013 to meet with a large group of women who subsequently applied to charter a chapter. Birmingham’s petition included 54 members, the largest number to join LDEI as a new chapter, becoming LDEI’s 29th. Nathalie has long been interested in helping start a new chapter in North Carolina. She previously met L-R: CiCi Williamson, Colleen Minton, Sharon Olson, and with a smaller group of women and helped to gather names and con- Nathalie Durpee. Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree of Charleston tact information for many of the women who attended the reception. speaks to potential North Carolina Dames.

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30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

KK 1641 Orange Sauce Ad_final.indd 1 12/17/14 2:10 PM Submission Guidelines Re-Branding Deadlines 2015 FALL ISSUE - AUGUST 1, 2015 Les Dames d'Escoffier 2016 WINTER ISSUE - November 9, 2015 By Shara Bohach Photography/Images (Cleveland) Electronic images must be properly focused and in color with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). Cell phone photos are acceptable if they As Les Dames d'Escoffier looks to increase meet resolution requirements. Do not send photos taken off the Internet its brand awareness, we all look for ways or embedded with text in Word files or PDF files. Please identify individuals to do our part. On the PR committee, I in photos from left to right in the message of your email. Include photo was asked to review a draft of the new PR manual. credits, if required, and captions. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST COME WITH As I read through the CAPTIONS TO BE PUBLISHED. acknowledged weak- Member Milestones nesses of the brand, Aloha! Please join me LIST DAME’S NAME and XXX CHAPTER. Each Dame may submit up to 50 I realized something in welcoming LDEI's words about honors or important business-related activities, as preferred, to Socialwas missing. Media Iadminis noted - the logo itself as a appear in print. Please include a website URL, if applicable. You may email trator Tara Anderson. a quality headshot to accompany your news. Press releases and cookbook Weweakness. are fortunate The nameto of the organization, covers are not accepted. Email your Member Milestone and photo to have her talent, enthu- Member Milestone Editor, Dottie Koteski at [email protected] by siasm,minuscule and expertise.compared I Shara Bohach to the mark, lacked the deadline listed above. Entries received after these dates may appear in a presence and when used small was unread- following issue. Photos of Dames networking at conferences or other chapter able. The mark itself was recognizable, but events may also be sent to this section. Note: Due to space constraints, only small details detracted from its clarity. two Member Milestones will be published per Dame per year. I proposed that the logo should be rede- signed for name presence, and suggested Chapter News adding a tagline to increase understand- CHAPTER XXX (By, the submitter's name, office-or title, if any). Each ing of the organization. I volunteered my chapter may submit 250 words as you would like to see it in print. You may firm, Unity Design, with its branding include photos to accompany your news, noting photography requirements expertise, for the endeavor. We planned to above. Submissions that exceed the word count will be edited. (A lengthy increase brand and name presence, while submission on a special chapter event could be considered for a feature; not infringing on established brand equity. contact the editor in advance.) Press releases are not accepted. We regret Maintaining the previous font (Garamond), we don't have space to print full menus but menu items can be included we made the organization name large with in the copy. Submissions not conforming to this format may not be printed “International” underneath in all caps, and due to deadlines and volunteer’s lack of time. Email to Janet Burgess at with an elegant rule between. This allowed [email protected] by the deadline date. Entries received after the entire name to carry much more weight this date may appear in the following issue. Note: "Chapter News" and with a polished look. "Member Milestones" may be dispersed through LDEI social-media We made refinements, cleaning up the channels, as well as in print and online. mark and added a heavier outer border to help it stand out. We designed both vertical E-News and horizontal configurations for the logo. This bimonthly publication will keep you informed about events in other We proposed a number of taglines, from chapters and encourages networking. Press releases are not accepted. creative solutions to utilitarian (who we are, Include an email contact, date, time, and cost for chapter events. Lack what we do). This has sparked a lengthier of space prevents member milestones, product news, listing of cooking debate that continues. Watch for a new classes, or tours. You will receive a reminder call for “E-News” email. tagline perhaps in 2015! Respond to E-News Editor, Shelley Pedersen, at [email protected] After the Board's approval, we went a step further to develop logos for each chapter. Chapters can find the new international logo and their chapter logos by logging into the website and going to Member Center > Documents. Logos are supplied in JPG and Upcoming in the fall issue EPS formats. • Winners of LDEI's M.F.K. Fisher Awards Unity Design (unitydesign.biz) is a brand-focused print and online design firm • Introducing the 2015 Grande Dame that specializes in the culinary industry. • Nashville Chapter Review

SUMMER Quarterly 2015 31 Atlanta PREsorted Austin First Class Birmingham Boston u s Postage British Columbia, Canada paid Charleston Louisville KY Chicago P.O. Box 4961 Permit #1051 Cleveland/Northeast Ohio Louisville, KY 40204 Colorado Dallas Hawaii Houston Kansas City/Heart of America London, England Los Angeles/Orange County Miami Minnesota Monterey Bay Area Nashville New York Northeast Palm Springs Philadelphia Phoenix San Antonio San Diego San Francisco Seattle St. Louis Washington

Panicles of Gold: A Pre-Conference Rice Seminar By Susan Slack (Charleston) Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit, touted by Oprah Middleton Place Restaurant in the 1980s, and Food & Wine. Our esteemed scholars are Edna Lewis codified the kitchen to focus on One of the Lowcountry’s greatest culinary Dr. David S. Shields, the McClintock Profes- authentic Lowcountry dishes. gifts is Carolina Gold Rice––the "grandfather sor of Southern Letters at the University of After lunch, join our scholars for an infor- of long-grain rice in America.” For a histori- South Carolina; and Glenn Roberts, CEO of mative stroll around the demonstration rice cal overview of the heirloom grain, travel to Anson Mills, which specializes in the resto- field to the old mill and slave chapel. A cos- Middleton Place for a day of lectures, tours, ration, milling, and packaging of heirloom tumed interpreter will be on hand to discuss and tastings. The eighteenth-century rice grains. Discussions will address the influence planting methods and the recent harvest. Or plantation, a National Historic Landmark, of the golden grain on Colonial Charleston’s meander through the exquisite gardens, and was home to the illustrious Middleton fam- economy, culture, and cuisine; its demise Eliza's House (former slave cottage). We’ll ily––planters and statesmen that included a and repatriation, and the role it plays in the gather once again for a private tour of the signer of the Declaration of Independence, modern Carolina Rice Kitchen. treasure-filled House Museum, built in 1755 the second president of the First Continental The Edna Lewis Luncheon will showcase to serve as the gentlemen's guest quarters. Congress, and a state governor. An equally elegant Lowcountry fare with seafood caught Thursday, October 29—8 a.m. to 3 p.m. important part of the story is the African- just offshore; local, heirloom ingredients American population. Women were central to like Carolina Gold Rice (Anson Mills); and rice production, as they were in West Africa, Panicles of Carolina Gold Rice and milled rice. Dr. fresh produce from the plantation’s organic contributing specialized knowledge for meth- David S. Shields: Distinguished Professor, University garden. Pan-Fried Quail (Manchester Farms) ods of cultivation and processing. of South Carolina. Glenn Roberts: proprietor of will be prepared using our legendary Grande Anson Mills—specialty grains supplier, Columbia, Begin the day with breakfast-on-the-go from Dame’s recipe. As consultant-in-residence at S.C. Aerial view of Middleton Place.