Lily Tofteland Hartmann 531 words Boulder, Colorado

Bunads and Brooches

Bunad, the Nasjonaldrakt, is the national costume, a festdrakt, a celebration attire. The popular Hardanger bunad has been traditionally called the National Costume of . The Hardanger area is the collective name for the townships around western Norway's Hardanger Fjord, Hordaland. Researchers say that there are over 150 different types of these festive folk costumes, each with regional differences. Bunads are a cherished heirloom of history originally said to be worn to distinguish the people of the countryside from the townspeople. Colorful bunads are proudly worn as emigrant descendants gather to celebrate May 17, Norway's Constitution Day, Norwegian-America stevne (reunion) and other gatherings. There are about 32 Bygdelag societies of individuals that have ties to a certain district in Norway. These ethnic organizations feature cultural and social activities that preserve proudly heritage and strengthen bonds with its community origin in Norway. from Agder, the southern part of Norway, formed the "Agderlag," and in 2000 they celebrated the 75th year of its 1926 founding at Luverne, Minnesota where Bunads are worn! Bunads are handed down from generation to generation, worn by all age groups, and never change in style or fashion. This festive garment may include a number of items as: black, buckled bunad shoes, headdress, breastplate, purse, jewelry, etc. A man's Tofteland Hartmann: Bunads and Brooches p.2

costume may include a vest, frock, knickers, buckled shoes, colored stockings, top hat or less elaborate traditional cap, etc. Authentic bunad clothing may consist of full flowing one-piece garments made of natural fabrics. A wealth of stitches and patterns are seen in the open-work inset borders of crisp white aprons; the long-sleeved blouses have intricate hand-embroidered wristbands and collars. Some may wear a blouse with a ruff collar, wheel-shaped and are stiffly starched. A close fitting jerkin is decorated along the borders and worn with a square tucker, or breast plate. Silver chains or buttons hold the jerkin together. A tucker is an elegant display of hand-sewn golden, silver or colored beads or jeweled sequins sewn in geometrical patterns. The headpiece may be similarly decorated or can be a small quilted floral embroidered bonnet. A fringed shawl, silk kerchief, patterned belt, or an attached multi-colored embroidered purse is often worn. Brooches (brystnal) are cherished ornamental heirlooms that are worn at the neck of the blouse. It has a clasp, tongue or loop for attaching to the clothing. Brooches were once rigidly-designed pins that were used to hold clothing together. Heritage brooches tell legends, history and/or fantasy. My favorites brooches are Pillar Guri, The Three Billy-Goats Gruff, Terje Viken and Birkebeiner. Norwegian Solje is the traditional glittering filigree jewelry that is cherished and worn with the bunader on festive occasions. These were developed in the mid 18th century as a result of the rococo influences that swept through Europe at that time. People may differ as to personalities, dialect, customs, traditions and costumes, but they unite to preserve the heritage, especially at festive occasions. The national costumes and traditional jewelry are proudly worn by people of all ages, generation after generation!