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Alexandra MATHIEU Bachelière Ès Arts, B.A UNIVERSITÉ DU QUÉBEC INSTITUT NATIONAL DE LA RECHERCHE SCIENTIFIQUE CENTRE – URBANISATION CULTURE SOCIÉTÉ INVESTIR L’ESPACE ENTRE LES IMMEUBLES: CUISINE DE RUE ET (RE)VITALISATION URBAINE À MONTRÉAL Par Alexandra MATHIEU bachelière ès arts, B.A. Rapport de stage présenté pour obtenir le grade de Maître ès sciences, M. Sc. Maîtrise en études urbaines Programme offert conjointement par l’INRS et l’UQAM Août 2016 © Alexandra MATHIEU, 2016 Ce rapport de stage intitulé INVESTIR L'ESPACE ENTRE LES IMMEUBLES : CUISINE DE RUE ET (RE)VITALISATION URBAINE À MONTRÉAL et présentée par Alexandra MATHIEU a été évalué par un jury composé de Mme Julia CSERGO, présidente, UQAM M. Michel TRÉPANIER, directeur de recherche, INRS UCS Mme Gaëlle CERF, examinatrice externe, ARRQ RÉSUMÉ ABSTRACT En octobre 2014, le projet-pilote visant à étudier les tenants In October 2014, the pilot project to evaluate the reintroduc- et aboutissants de la réintroduction de la cuisine de rue à tion of street food in Montreal came to an end. It is in this Montréal est arrivée à terme. C’est dans ce contexte que nous context that we had the opportunity to be an intern researcher avons eu l’opportunité d’effectuer un stage de recherche à at the Quebec's Food Truck Association. l’Association des restaurateurs de rue du Québec. A large part of the future of street food in Montreal will de- Une large part du futur de la cuisine de rue, à Montréal, dé- pend on the regulatory framework that the city will adopt. pendra du cadre réglementaire qui sera adopté. Outre l’apport Beyond the culinary aspect, the reappearance of street food culinaire de la cuisine de rue, nous estimons que le retour de should be seen has an occasion to strengthen the social func- camions-restaurants, dans la métropole, pourrait être tion of the street and of it's livability. Has other researches l’occasion de renforcer la fonction sociale de la rue et la qua- have shown before us (Whyte 1980; Howell 2011; Newman lité de vie urbaine. Comme d’autres recherches l’ont montré and Burnett 2013; Sheppard 2013), food trucks have the po- avant nous (Whyte 1980; Howell 2011; Newman et Burnett tential to be vectors of urban vitality, catalysts of socializa- 2013; Sheppard 2013), les camions de cuisine de rue ont la tion, of casual and ephemeral interactions. Their attrac- capacité d’être des vecteurs de vitalisation urbaine, des cata- tiveness comes from a facet, as prosaic as it is profound, of lyseurs de socialisation, d’interactions sociales légères et the relation we have with food: commensality. That said, éphémères. Ce pouvoir d’attraction réside dans une facette, there is an inescapable spatiality to socialization. Thus, the aussi banale que profonde, de la relation que nous entrete- materialization of the food trucks' potential to vitalize urban nons avec la nourriture : la commensalité. Ceci étant, il y a spaces will depend on the qualities of the locations chosen by une incontournable spatialité à la socialisation et la concréti- the boroughs. As such, this study analyze seven street food sation de ce potentiel de vitalisation dépendra donc de cer- locations to determine which characteristics of the urban taines caractéristiques propres aux sites désignés par form, of the urban design and which sensory qualities are l’administration municipale. À ce titre, le présent rapport necessary for food trucks to activate the space between buil- analyse sept sites qui ont hébergé des camions de restauration dings. de rue afin de dégager les caractéristiques morphologiques, physiques et sensorielles nécessaires à la concrétisation de ce potentiel de vitalisation que porte la restauration de rue. Mots-clefs: cuisine de rue; commensalité; espaces intersti- Keywords: street food; food truck; commensality; life bet- tiels; vitalisation; socialisation éphémère; effet de triangula- ween buildings; ephemeral socialization; third places; trian- tion; tiers-lieux; piétons; échelle humaine gulation; livability; walkability; human scale iii REMERCIEMENTS Tout d’abord, merci à Gaëlle, Melo, Annabelle, Sabine, Stéphane et Julien de l’Association des restaurateurs de rue du Québec. Merci pour votre accueil et votre soutien. Merci à tous les food truckeurs et les food truckeuses qui ont pris le temps de répondre à mes questions. Merci pour votre disponibilité, votre ouverture, votre générosité et votre curiosité. Ce fut un plaisir de discuter avec vous. L’été, par jour de grande chaleur, j’ai tou- jours une pensée pour vous, dans vos boîtes de métal, en plein soleil. Vous êtes des guerrières et des guerriers. Merci aux membres de l’administration municipale qui ont généreusement accepté de me rencontrer. Sur une note plus personnelle, merci pour tout le travail et les efforts que vous avez déployés afin que le retour de la cuisine de rue, à Montréal, se fasse le plus har- monieusement possible. En tant que Montréalaise, je vous en remercie. À vous tous, merci. Sans votre participation, ce rapport n’aurait pu voir le jour dans sa forme actuelle. Un merci infini à mon directeur de maîtrise, sans qui je n’aurais pu mener à bien ce stage de recherche. Merci pour votre appui indé- fectible, votre disponibilité et votre générosité. Merci d’avoir été là dans les moments difficiles comme dans les moments joyeux. Merci aussi au corps professoral et au toujours sympathique personnel de soutien de l’INRS-UCS pour son aide et sa disponibilité. Merci à mon boss, Maxime Chevalier, et à son second, Isabelle Chevalier, de la Quincaillerie Liège. J’ai travaillé avec vous alors que j’étais au baccalauréat, puis, lorsque je suis revenu à Montréal pour entamer une première maîtrise, puis, enfin pour celle-ci. Toutes ces années, vous m’avez permis de moduler mes horaires en fonction du rythme des sessions universitaires. De même, vous m’avez per- mis, l’espace d’un été (alors que c’est notre haute saison), de mener à bien la présente recherche. Merci infiniment pour votre compré- hension, votre générosité et votre flexibilité. Max, merci pour toutes les connaissances que tu m’as transmises. Isa, merci pour ta sensi- bilité et ta bonne humeur. Merci aussi à mon collègue et « third in command », Steve; que dire de plus que : Ah, Steve. De même, merci aux client-e-s – certains d’entre vous, au fil des ans, sont pratiquement devenus des ami-e-s – qui m’ont encouragé, qui ont pris iv des nouvelles de mes recherches et de mes études en général. Merci pour votre curiosité et votre intérêt sincère. Comme quoi, ça ne prend pas juste un village pour élever un enfant; ça en prend aussi un pour passer à travers des études universitaires. Villeray, je t’aime. Merci à mes ami-e-s – dont, le hasard en a décidé ainsi, une large majorité est en restauration – pour m’avoir nourrie et maintenue ca- féinée. Sans votre générosité, votre amour et votre soutien moral, je ne serais probablement jamais passé à travers mon parcours uni- versitaire. Une salutation particulière aux merveilleuses personnes du Réservoir; de La Salle à Manger et du Furco – oui, Joë, c’est à toi que je m’adresse. Une mention particulière aux garçons des Fillettes et de Pas d'cochon : FoFo, Carl, Carcasse, je vous aime d’amour. Merci. Merci à France et à Richard sans qui je ne serais – littéralement et proverbialement – pas là. Merci de m’avoir soutenue et de m’avoir aimée inconditionnellement. Enfin, merci à mon amoureux. Ju, merci de m’avoir aidée, de m’avoir réconfortée et encouragée et de m’avoir fait rire, toujours. v TABLE DES MATIÈRES LISTE DES TABLEAUX ......................................................................................................................................................................... xi LISTE DES FIGURES .............................................................................................................................................................................. xi INTRODUCTION .................................................................................................................................................................................... 15 1. CUISINE DE RUE 2.0 ......................................................................................................................................................................... 21 Esquisse d’une pratique culturelle mondiale : des braises au camion 2.0 .............................................................................................. 22 Kogi BBQ et les camions 2.0 .............................................................................................................................................................. 26 Cuisine de rue 2.0 à Montréal ................................................................................................................................................................ 35 L’univers réglementaire montréalais ................................................................................................................................................. 37 L’univers des restaurateurs de rue ..................................................................................................................................................... 41 De l’offre alimentaire à la vitalisation de l’espace public ................................................................................................................. 43 2. DES COMMENSAUX DANS LES ESPACES INTERSTITIELS DE LA VILLE : REVUE DE LITTÉRATURE SUR LA CUISINE DE RUE ET THÉORISATION DE SON POTENTIEL DE VITALISATION ..............................................................
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