An Analysis of the Current Situation of the Chinese Clothing Craze in the Context of the Rejuvenation of Chinese Culture
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The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society
The Textiles of the Han Dynasty & Their Relationship with Society Heather Langford Theses submitted for the degree of Master of Arts Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences Centre of Asian Studies University of Adelaide May 2009 ii Dissertation submitted in partial fulfilment of the research requirements for the degree of Master of Arts Centre of Asian Studies School of Humanities and Social Sciences Adelaide University 2009 iii Table of Contents 1. Introduction.........................................................................................1 1.1. Literature Review..............................................................................13 1.2. Chapter summary ..............................................................................17 1.3. Conclusion ........................................................................................19 2. Background .......................................................................................20 2.1. Pre Han History.................................................................................20 2.2. Qin Dynasty ......................................................................................24 2.3. The Han Dynasty...............................................................................25 2.3.1. Trade with the West............................................................................. 30 2.4. Conclusion ........................................................................................32 3. Textiles and Technology....................................................................33 -
Ps TOILETRY CASE SETS ACROSS LIFE and DEATH in EARLY CHINA (5 C. BCE-3 C. CE) by Sheri A. Lullo BA, University of Chicago
TOILETRY CASE SETS ACROSS LIFE AND DEATH IN EARLY CHINA (5th c. BCE-3rd c. CE) by Sheri A. Lullo BA, University of Chicago, 1999 MA, University of Pittsburgh, 2003 Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of Arts & Sciences in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy University of Pittsburgh 2009 Ps UNIVERSITY OF PITTSBURGH FACULTY OF ARTS & SCIENCES This dissertation was presented by Sheri A. Lullo It was defended on October 9, 2009 and approved by Anthony Barbieri-Low, Associate Professor, History Dept., UC Santa Barbara Karen M. Gerhart, Professor, History of Art and Architecture Bryan K. Hanks, Associate Professor, Anthropology Anne Weis, Associate Professor, History of Art and Architecture Dissertation Advisor: Katheryn M. Linduff, Professor, History of Art and Architecture ii Copyright © by Sheri A. Lullo 2009 iii TOILETRY CASE SETS ACROSS LIFE AND DEATH IN EARLY CHINA (5th c. BCE-3rd c. CE) Sheri A. Lullo, PhD University of Pittsburgh, 2009 This dissertation is an exploration of the cultural biography of toiletry case sets in early China. It traces the multiple significances that toiletry items accrued as they moved from contexts of everyday life to those of ritualized death, and focuses on the Late Warring States Period (5th c. BCE) through the Han Dynasty (206 BCE-220 CE), when they first appeared in burials. Toiletry case sets are painted or inlaid lacquered boxes that were filled with a variety of tools for beautification, including combs, mirrors, cosmetic substances, tweezers, hairpins and a selection of personal items. Often overlooked as ordinary, non-ritual items placed in burials to comfort the deceased, these sets have received little scholarly attention beyond what they reveal about innovations in lacquer technologies. -
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. -
An Attempt to Analyze the Implicitness of the Aesthetic Features of Chinese
International Conference on Education, Language, Art and Intercultural Communication (ICELAIC 2014) An Attempt to Analyze the Implicitness of the Aesthetic Features of Chinese Art Taking the Aesthetic Features of Women’s Clothing in the Flourishing Period of Tang Dynasty as an Example Zhaofang Xv Arts and Design School Huanghe Science and Technology College Zhengzhou, China, 450005 Abstract—Tang Dynasty, at the height of power and inspiring in the history of costumes. The major matching splendor in the Chinese Feudal Society, had not only a stable forms of Tang clothing are Ruqun dress, Dressing as man, political situation, a prosperous economy, and a brilliant and Hu clothing. culture, but also had clothing which was splendid, rich, colourful, free-spirited, luxurious and liberated. The strong Overall, the strong ethos and the joyous creativeness of ethos and the joyous creativeness of Tang Clothing were Tang Clothing were mainly embodied in Women’s Clothing. mainly embodied in Women’s Clothing. Females in Tang Females in Tang Dynasty, especially those lived in the Dynasty, especially those lived in the flourishing period, had flourishing period, had their daily attires bold, luxurious, and their daily attires bold, luxurious, and tailored to highlight the tailored to highlight the beauty of the body, and in their way beauty of the body,and in their way they abandoned the they abandoned the affected and restrained clothing style of affected and restrained clothing style of former times and former times and replaced it with a lively, jubilate, liberated replaced it with a lively, jubilate, liberated and magnanimous and magnanimous clothing style. -
Fit and Appearance of Multi-Layered Cultural Garments
Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology Research Article Open Access Comparing physical to virtual: fit and appearance of multi-layered cultural garments Abstract Volume 6 Issue 2 - 2020 This study sought to expand the use of virtual technology to include multi-layered non- Bai Li, Kelly Cobb, Huantian Cao western cultural garments and compare these complex garments, physically and virtually. Department of Fashion and Apparel Studies, The University of In addition, 3D simulation of non-western garments could benefit the emerging Chinese Delaware, USA market. The study included five parts: material selection, avatar customization, physical multi-layered garment construction, virtual multi-layered garment construction, and Correspondence: Kelly Cobb, Department of Fashion and evaluation of the physical and virtual garment appearance and fit using an online survey. Apparel Studies, The University of Delaware, USA, Tel 302-831- This study found that multi-layered cultural garments could be relatively effectively 6132, Email simulated in virtual software, such as EFI Optitex. Moreover, number of fabric layers did not significantly affect either appearance or fit similarity between virtual and physical Received: March 06, 2020 | Published: April 07, 2020 garments. Based on these results, it can be concluded that virtual presentation has great potential as a tool to evaluate the appearance of a garment in a relatively simple and quick way. Keywords: fit, appearance, garments, 3D virtual prototyping, culture, fashions, apparel Introduction EFI Fabric Library, developing 2D and 3D patterns via EFI Optitex pattern drafting software, creating physical and virtual garments, and The traditional model of apparel product development requires conducting an on-campus survey. -
Religion in China BKGA 85 Religion Inchina and Bernhard Scheid Edited by Max Deeg Major Concepts and Minority Positions MAX DEEG, BERNHARD SCHEID (EDS.)
Religions of foreign origin have shaped Chinese cultural history much stronger than generally assumed and continue to have impact on Chinese society in varying regional degrees. The essays collected in the present volume put a special emphasis on these “foreign” and less familiar aspects of Chinese religion. Apart from an introductory article on Daoism (the BKGA 85 BKGA Religion in China prototypical autochthonous religion of China), the volume reflects China’s encounter with religions of the so-called Western Regions, starting from the adoption of Indian Buddhism to early settlements of religious minorities from the Near East (Islam, Christianity, and Judaism) and the early modern debates between Confucians and Christian missionaries. Contemporary Major Concepts and religious minorities, their specific social problems, and their regional diversities are discussed in the cases of Abrahamitic traditions in China. The volume therefore contributes to our understanding of most recent and Minority Positions potentially violent religio-political phenomena such as, for instance, Islamist movements in the People’s Republic of China. Religion in China Religion ∙ Max DEEG is Professor of Buddhist Studies at the University of Cardiff. His research interests include in particular Buddhist narratives and their roles for the construction of identity in premodern Buddhist communities. Bernhard SCHEID is a senior research fellow at the Austrian Academy of Sciences. His research focuses on the history of Japanese religions and the interaction of Buddhism with local religions, in particular with Japanese Shintō. Max Deeg, Bernhard Scheid (eds.) Deeg, Max Bernhard ISBN 978-3-7001-7759-3 Edited by Max Deeg and Bernhard Scheid Printed and bound in the EU SBph 862 MAX DEEG, BERNHARD SCHEID (EDS.) RELIGION IN CHINA: MAJOR CONCEPTS AND MINORITY POSITIONS ÖSTERREICHISCHE AKADEMIE DER WISSENSCHAFTEN PHILOSOPHISCH-HISTORISCHE KLASSE SITZUNGSBERICHTE, 862. -
Confucianism, "Cultural Tradition" and Official Discourses in China at the Start of the New Century
China Perspectives 2007/3 | 2007 Creating a Harmonious Society Confucianism, "cultural tradition" and official discourses in China at the start of the new century Sébastien Billioud Édition électronique URL : http://journals.openedition.org/chinaperspectives/2033 DOI : 10.4000/chinaperspectives.2033 ISSN : 1996-4617 Éditeur Centre d'étude français sur la Chine contemporaine Édition imprimée Date de publication : 15 septembre 2007 ISSN : 2070-3449 Référence électronique Sébastien Billioud, « Confucianism, "cultural tradition" and official discourses in China at the start of the new century », China Perspectives [En ligne], 2007/3 | 2007, mis en ligne le 01 septembre 2010, consulté le 14 novembre 2019. URL : http://journals.openedition.org/chinaperspectives/2033 ; DOI : 10.4000/chinaperspectives.2033 © All rights reserved Special feature s e v Confucianism, “Cultural i a t c n i e Tradition,” and Official h p s c r Discourse in China at the e p Start of the New Century SÉBASTIEN BILLIOUD This article explores the reference to traditional culture and Confucianism in official discourses at the start of the new century. It shows the complexity and the ambiguity of the phenomenon and attempts to analyze it within the broader framework of society’s evolving relation to culture. armony (hexie 和谐 ), the rule of virtue ( yi into allusions made in official discourse, we are interested de zhi guo 以德治国 ): for the last few years in another general and imprecise category: cultural tradi - Hthe consonance suggested by slogans and tion ( wenhua chuantong ) or traditional cul - 文化传统 themes mobilised by China’s leadership has led to spec - ture ( chuantong wenhua 传统文化 ). ((1) However, we ulation concerning their relationship to Confucianism or, are excluding from the domain of this study the entire as - more generally, to China’s classical cultural tradition. -
Life, Thought and Image of Wang Zheng, a Confucian-Christian in Late Ming China
Life, Thought and Image of Wang Zheng, a Confucian-Christian in Late Ming China Inaugural-Dissertation zur Erlangung der Doktorwürde der Philosophischen Fakultät der Rheinischen Friedrich-Wilhelms-Universität zu Bonn vorgelegt von Ruizhong Ding aus Qishan, VR. China Bonn, 2019 Gedruckt mit der Genehmigung der Philosophischen Fakultät der Rheinischen Friedrich-Wilhelms-Universität Bonn Zusammensetzung der Prüfungskommission: Prof. Dr. Dr. Manfred Hutter, Institut für Orient- und Asienwissenschaften (Vorsitzender) Prof. Dr. Wolfgang Kubin, Institut für Orient- und Asienwissenschaften (Betreuer und Gutachter) Prof. Dr. Ralph Kauz, Institut für Orient- und Asienwissenschaften (Gutachter) Prof. Dr. Veronika Veit, Institut für Orient- und Asienwissenschaften (weiteres prüfungsberechtigtes Mitglied) Tag der mündlichen Prüfung:22.07.2019 Acknowledgements Currently, when this dissertation is finished, I look out of the window with joyfulness and I would like to express many words to all of you who helped me. Prof. Wolfgang Kubin accepted me as his Ph.D student and in these years he warmly helped me a lot, not only with my research but also with my life. In every meeting, I am impressed by his personality and erudition deeply. I remember one time in his seminar he pointed out my minor errors in the speech paper frankly and patiently. I am indulged in his beautiful German and brilliant poetry. His translations are full of insightful wisdom. Every time when I meet him, I hope it is a long time. I am so grateful that Prof. Ralph Kauz in the past years gave me unlimited help. In his seminars, his academic methods and sights opened my horizons. Usually, he supported and encouraged me to study more fields of research. -
The Later Han Empire (25-220CE) & Its Northwestern Frontier
University of Pennsylvania ScholarlyCommons Publicly Accessible Penn Dissertations 2012 Dynamics of Disintegration: The Later Han Empire (25-220CE) & Its Northwestern Frontier Wai Kit Wicky Tse University of Pennsylvania, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations Part of the Asian History Commons, Asian Studies Commons, and the Military History Commons Recommended Citation Tse, Wai Kit Wicky, "Dynamics of Disintegration: The Later Han Empire (25-220CE) & Its Northwestern Frontier" (2012). Publicly Accessible Penn Dissertations. 589. https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations/589 This paper is posted at ScholarlyCommons. https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations/589 For more information, please contact [email protected]. Dynamics of Disintegration: The Later Han Empire (25-220CE) & Its Northwestern Frontier Abstract As a frontier region of the Qin-Han (221BCE-220CE) empire, the northwest was a new territory to the Chinese realm. Until the Later Han (25-220CE) times, some portions of the northwestern region had only been part of imperial soil for one hundred years. Its coalescence into the Chinese empire was a product of long-term expansion and conquest, which arguably defined the egionr 's military nature. Furthermore, in the harsh natural environment of the region, only tough people could survive, and unsurprisingly, the region fostered vigorous warriors. Mixed culture and multi-ethnicity featured prominently in this highly militarized frontier society, which contrasted sharply with the imperial center that promoted unified cultural values and stood in the way of a greater degree of transregional integration. As this project shows, it was the northwesterners who went through a process of political peripheralization during the Later Han times played a harbinger role of the disintegration of the empire and eventually led to the breakdown of the early imperial system in Chinese history. -
Hanfu Elements in Modern Fashion Design and Innovation
Asian Social Science; Vol. 10, No. 13; 2014 ISSN 1911-2017 E-ISSN 1911-2025 Published by Canadian Center of Science and Education Hanfu Elements in Modern Fashion Design and Innovation Shaoying Hu1 1 College of Textiles & Garments, Southwest University, Chongqing, China Correspondence: Shaoying Hu, College of Textiles & Garments, Southwest University, Chongqing, China. Tel: 86-138-8347-8114. E-mail: [email protected] Received: March 30, 2014 Accepted: April 25, 2014 Online Published: June 25, 2014 doi:10.5539/ass.v10n13p89 URL: http://dx.doi.org/10.5539/ass.v10n13p89 Abstract Combining with Chinese traditional Han costumes and modern fashion, this paper expounds the relationship from the aspects of fashion styles, garment structure, patterns, fabrics, etc. And with different concrete examples, every aspect was made a detail analysis to discuss how Hanfu elements are used in modern fashion design, and we may come to a conclusion that traditional Chinese costume culture is an important source of modern fashion design. Accordingly, we carried on a research on modern fashion design, with having important cultural inheritance value and design significance for modern dress. Keywords: Han costume, elements, modern fashion design, features 1. Introduction Hanfu, also known as "Hanzhuang" or "Huafu", is namely national costume of Han Chinese people. The concept of Hanfu is distinguished from the broader concept of traditional Chinese clothing. The ancient Chinese called Hanfu as Yiguan. As the ancient Hu people’s traditional costume to be known as "Hufu", the Han Chinese traditional dress is referred to as "Hanfu". The succession of Hanfu elements in fashion is called as the fashion localization with Hanfu elements, also known as modern Han-style fashion. -
China 2019: Chinese Culture and Child Development June 6 – 23, 2019
China 2019: Chinese Culture and Child Development June 6 – 23, 2019 The goal of this summer study abroad trip is to present students with an educational opportunity that combines a cross-cultural immersion covering three areas of China – Beijing, Henan Province, and Shanghai – with an intensive service experience in the rural village of Qingyundian Township, located in the Daxing District of Beijing, China. Planned activities will provide students firsthand knowledge of living conditions, cultural norms, and needs of people in a small disadvantaged village, and its contrast to the large, urban environments of Beijing and Shanghai, as well as university student life in a small city (Xinzheng) and rural life in the Henan Province. The trip will offer students the opportunity to experience Chinese culture and customs, exploring sites from ancient and imperial China to the rapidly-changing, 21st century China. Earn service credit hours Open to students from any major Cost: $5,875 - Includes 7 credit hours tuition plus airfare, Chinese visa, lodging, 3 meals per day in China, ground transportation and all excursions. Courses Included: • PSYC480/ASIA480: Child Development Issues in China and the U.S. (3) • ANTH/ASIA 337: Contemporary Chinese Culture & Society (3) • GNST 251: Cross-Cultural Experience (1) The psychology course will acquaint the student with the issues and challenges related to child development in the U.S. and China, especially in resource-poor environments, in regard to the care of orphaned children with special medical needs or disabilities, and in the educational system. The anthropology course will focus on changes in contemporary Chinese culture and society, including history and memories of revolutions, market forces and work, family and marriage, family planning and child rearing, public and private life, migration and ethnicity, religions and rituals, gender and sexuality, as well as environmental politics and globalization. -
Ideophones in Middle Chinese
KU LEUVEN FACULTY OF ARTS BLIJDE INKOMSTSTRAAT 21 BOX 3301 3000 LEUVEN, BELGIË ! Ideophones in Middle Chinese: A Typological Study of a Tang Dynasty Poetic Corpus Thomas'Van'Hoey' ' Presented(in(fulfilment(of(the(requirements(for(the(degree(of(( Master(of(Arts(in(Linguistics( ( Supervisor:(prof.(dr.(Jean=Christophe(Verstraete((promotor)( ( ( Academic(year(2014=2015 149(431(characters Abstract (English) Ideophones in Middle Chinese: A Typological Study of a Tang Dynasty Poetic Corpus Thomas Van Hoey This M.A. thesis investigates ideophones in Tang dynasty (618-907 AD) Middle Chinese (Sinitic, Sino- Tibetan) from a typological perspective. Ideophones are defined as a set of words that are phonologically and morphologically marked and depict some form of sensory image (Dingemanse 2011b). Middle Chinese has a large body of ideophones, whose domains range from the depiction of sound, movement, visual and other external senses to the depiction of internal senses (cf. Dingemanse 2012a). There is some work on modern variants of Sinitic languages (cf. Mok 2001; Bodomo 2006; de Sousa 2008; de Sousa 2011; Meng 2012; Wu 2014), but so far, there is no encompassing study of ideophones of a stage in the historical development of Sinitic languages. The purpose of this study is to develop a descriptive model for ideophones in Middle Chinese, which is compatible with what we know about them cross-linguistically. The main research question of this study is “what are the phonological, morphological, semantic and syntactic features of ideophones in Middle Chinese?” This question is studied in terms of three parameters, viz. the parameters of form, of meaning and of use.