Laura Frenchgives the Lowdown on the Ionian Islands You Might Never
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DESTINATIONS IONIAN ISLANDS | GREECE & CYPRUS Treasure islandsLaura French gives the lowdown on the Ionian islands you might never have heard of ’m having a Bond moment. We’re bounding island in the Indian Ocean, rather than on a publicly- across the sea on an adrenaline-blasting rib accessible beach just a four-hour flight from London. boat – water splashing, wind pummelling, Hopping between its lesser-known treasures heart pumping. Around us, tree-carpeted islands – Paxos, Antipaxos and Lefkas – across five days irise and fall in humps, and the ocean spreads out had me firmly head over heels, with lush green like a swathe of glass, parading all the blues: bright, mountains, cut-off beaches, Venetian-style houses glaring cobalt and deep, midnight indigo; glowing and cobblestone villages charming my every sense. aqua and thick, milky teal. Here’s a guide to some of the highlights. We’re heading for Meganisi, one of the tiny satellite islands that surround the larger Lefkas, and PAXOS it’s every bit as striking as I’ve come to expect after The vibe: Measuring about 10 square miles and with a few days exploring this lesser-known, ultra- a population of only 2,500, Paxos is dainty in size, photogenic region on a fam trip with Sunvil. with quiet fishing villages, bottle-green olive groves Soon we’re pulling into a nigh-on empty harbour, and cobblestone harbours set atop verdant hills. It tucking into mounds of crumbling feta and fresh has a manicured, polished feel that lures well-heeled sea bass against a backdrop of glittering turquoise, types after a serene escape from the crowds, and it with the taverna – and possibly the entire island – was one of my favourite spots on the trip. completely to ourselves. Highlights: At its heart is capital Gaios, where laid- Welcome to the Greek Ionian islands, where back cafes wrap around the island’s main port, and remote spots like this are 10 a penny, and where colourful villas in rose and lemon tell of its Italianate you can easily feel like you’re on your own private heritage (the Venetians conquered the Ionian ➣ 46 11 JULY 2019 travelweekly.co.uk travelweekly.co.uk 11 JULY 2019 47 DESTINATIONS IONIAN ISLANDS | GREECE & CYPRUS Quaint villages, working WHERE TO olive groves and vineyards stay are scattered among ASK THE scores of mountains agents colourful villas – some well-maintained, others half-crumbling – frame sloped, cobbled lanes dotted with lemon-yellow flowers. At its heart is a cobbled village square Theodora Apartments, where I had a hefty gyros (pitta stuffed with Gaios, Paxos grilled pork souvlaki and chips) for €2, with Julie Holland, Spear Travels Recommend these to clients a complimentary dessert thrown in from a “A visit to Antipaxos is a must. I never imagined you who want a simple, traditional CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: smiling, friendly hostess. could see beaches like this so close to home. It felt stay. Facilities are basic, but Vrika beach in Antipaxos; Down on the coast there are plenty like the Caribbean with its white-sand beaches and it’s peaceful and secluded Lefkas Town; local life in more spots worth visiting. Highlights include glistening turquoise waters. I also loved Paxos – with only six apartments (each Karya, Lefkas; Longos, Paxos Agios Nikitas, a classic seaside resort it’s authentic and full of charm.” with a small kitchen, balcony PICTURES: Shutterstock; Nigel Bowen; with bougainvillea-bedecked tavernas George Agapiou/ and access to shared outdoor Greektravelphotography.gr sloping down to a swimmable, aquamarine pool), set on the hillside a few beach; and Vasiliki, a harbour town in the minutes’ walk from the village. south lined with shops selling locally made wine and olive oil, and yachts bobbing up and down on the ripples. But most visitors base themselves in Nidri, Elaine Ferry, Elaine’s Travel a bigger resort town on the east coast with a “My highlight was Lefkas. It has a relaxed and islands and Corfu in 1386, and Erimitis Bar & Restaurant, where typified; deserted, dusty paths gravel trails criss-crossing the hills. calm, lagoon-like beach and harbour. Though informal atmosphere and offers a true Greek occupied them for four centuries). quirky cocktails such as Bitter Ant meandering up tree-carpeted hills, Getting there: It’s 15 minutes from Paxos to the main strip of tavernas and shops feels a experience with plenty to do, from exploring the Sitting at an outdoor cafe, (a mix of Campari and Jägermeister verdant vineyards producing good- Antipaxos, with frequent boats departing from bit run-down and could do with a spruce-up, surrounding islands to indulging in superb food. Daglas Studios, Nidri, Lefkas coffee in hand, water rippling off topped with thick, gooey caramel) quality wines and soft white sands Gaios port. Clients can also hire their own – we it makes a good base for clients who want to I loved it so much I’m returning in a few weeks With four studio apartments a into the distance, was about as came with a sky painted lilac, pink edging electric blue water. There got a private speedboat over, which had us explore the surrounding islands. with my husband!” minute’s walk from the beach, idyllic as it gets – and despite it and peach at dusk, as the sun fell are no shops or big-name hotels, whooshing across the waves and stopping at It was from here that we hopped over to this is a safe bet for clients being the biggest village on the below the horizon. with villas the main accommodation swimming holes for a quick (albeit freezing) dip. Meganisi on the aforementioned rib, and it’s wanting a central, good-value island, it was still almost silent, with Getting there: A hydrofoil from here, and there are barely any well worth recommending (it costs between stay in Nidri. They’re all twin- a sleepy, slow-paced feel that felt Corfu shuttles passengers to Gaios in cars, with the permanent resident LEFKAS €280 and €320 for a day including a skipper, bed, open-plan apartments authentically, undeniably Greek. about an hour; recommend booking population numbering just eight. The vibe: Connected to mainland Greece but clients can also rent smaller, cheaper motor with a small kitchenette, and a Much of the food here is also in advance. There are also ferries Highlights: Vrika beach – where by a bridge, Lefkas is bigger and more easily boats they can drive themselves). You could few minutes’ from the town. exceptional; recommend Carnayo from Corfu and mainland Greece. most boats from Paxos drop accessible than Paxos and its neighbour, with spend a whole day exploring the deserted Jane Thornton, Gates Travel Restaurant for gourmet-style, passengers off – is as beautiful as capital Lefkas Town more developed – but less enclaves in the area, with must-sees including “I fell in love with Paxos. It’s so pretty and it hasn’t modern-meets-traditional dishes ANTIPAXOS they come, with sugar-fine sand polished – than the shiny, manicured cobbles the Papanikolis Sea Cave. lost its Greek feel, with excellent food and wine, such as youvetsi – a tomatoey, The vibe: Located a mile south of set around a calm bay. Voutoumi of Paxos. But the real standout for me was stopping the bluest of seas and the most amazing sunsets. cinnamon-infused concoction of its bigger sibling, the tiny Antipaxos beach close by takes it up a notch But apart from a few big resorts on the to admire the much-fabled Skorpios, where Couples, honeymooners and families who want orzo pasta and tender beef topped – measuring just one-and-a-half and has barely any visitors. There’s east coast, it doesn’t feel touristy, with quaint Jackie Kennedy married shipping tycoon quieter resorts would all find something here.” with crispy melted cheese. square miles – is island paradise also plenty of hiking, with steep villages, working olive groves and vineyards Aristotle Onassis, who owned the island, in Elsewhere there’s plenty more to scattered among scores of mountains. It’s also 1968. A-listers from across the world came Bacchus House, Antipaxos see, including Lakka – the island’s a hotspot for water sports, with rugged, shingle to enjoy Onassis’s lavish, Gatsby-esque parties This one-bedroom hilltop second-biggest village, home to BOOK IT beaches luring kitesurfers from near and far. in its heyday – and if you make it here, you’ll villa – bookable via GIC The shiny boutiques and souvenir shops Highlights: My favourite spot was Karya, see exactly what lured them. Villa Collection – is about as on elegant cobbled squares – and Sunvil offers seven nights at the Theodora Apartments in Paxos and seven nights at a quiet mountain village known for its lace- Like many of these islands, it feels remote, secluded as it gets. Guests are the hillier Loggos, where tiny fishing Kalami Bay in Corfu from £2,355, based on two sharing (self-catered) with flights making heritage, where locals use a stitching pristine and untouched – the type of place Anne Washington, Camberley Travel given a shopping list before boats and harbour-side restaurants from Gatwick and transfers on September 2. technique originally developed by a one- where nothing else really matters, where “The Ionian islands exceeded my expectations they come so supplies can be meet historic, narrow lanes and armed woman who opened an embroidery everything disappears for a while beneath the with stunning beaches and beautiful scenery. I’d delivered. It has a private pool pastel-hued houses. Sunvil can arrange a 14-night stay at the Daglas Studios in Nidri, Lefkas, from school here.