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2004 Mudfish on the Menu? Rise of the Much-Maligned Bowfin Ken Sulak USGS Fish Biologist U.S. Geological Survey

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This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the US Geological Survey at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in USGS Staff -- ubP lished Research by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. 27 American Currents Vol. 38, No. 4 Mudfish on the Menu? Rise of the Much-Maligned Bowfin

Ken Sulak USGS Fish Biologist U.S. Geological Survey Gainesville, FL

Reprinted with permission from Coastal Angler Magazine of North Central Florida Vol. 24 Issue 222, July 2013

Cajuns call it “choupique” (say “shoe-pick”), done in or pushed to the brink five of the world’s from its Choctaw name. Elsewhere, it’s the dogfish, 26 sturgeon species, and one paddlefish2). But, back blackfish, grindle, cottonfish, or cypress trout. Its to the dinosaur comparison. In proportion to its size, official common name is “Bowfin” (Amia calva)1. the mudfish is armed with a wicked set of long, sharp, But to most anglers, this is the “mudfish,” a strange, curved teeth on nearly every bone in its mouth. If unusual, and much-maligned fish, most everywhere scaled up to dino dimensions, its teeth would close- considered a useless trash fish. One look and the ly resemble, and rival the size of those of many words relict, prehistoric, primitive, and living fossil meat-eaters dinosaurs. And – the mudfish also sports come to mind. Indeed, the bowfin is the last of its the thickest, densest skull bones of any fish – line, the sole-surviving species of a very ancient armored like a dinosaur as well. It is an elegantly group of fishes. Its predecessors flourished in the designed predator and survivor indeed. Jurassic and Cretaceous periods during the Mesozoic Native to North America, the mudfish ranges (= Middle-Animal) Era, a great expanse of geological from the St. Lawrence River and the Great Lakes to time. Yes, as commonly noted, the mudfish is a Florida – found just about anywhere in the east- holdover from the age of the dinosaurs, 60-150 mil- ern half of the U.S., Minnesota to southeast Texas. lion years ago. Other equally ancient holdovers This is a lowland fish, absent from the Appala- among freshwater fishes are its very distant cousins, chian and Ozark mountains. While favoring clear the gars, and the sturgeons and Paddlefish, all equally water with dense vegetation, the mudfish can also antique, all unique and unusual, all northern hemi- handle dark swamp waters and muddy rivers. A sphere fishes. All three watched Tyrannosaurus come tough customer, the Bowfin can thrive equally well and go. They withstood the tropical Mesozoic, then in frigid waters under Canadian winter ice, or in the dramatic global cooling when the Atlantic Ocean mid-summer 90-degree water of steamy southern began to open 80 million years ago, and again when swamps. ice held much of Europe, Asia and North America in Viewed with disdain by most anglers (but the chilling grip of the Pleistocene Ice Age for 2.6 long a favorite in Louisiana), mudfish hauled in million years. All three antique fishes witnessed the while fishing for more noble fare like Largemouth evolution of grasses, flowering plants, and woody Bass were routinely thrown up on the bank to die. trees, as earlier forests of fern trees and giant horsetail Back in the 1970s, the banks of Tamiami Canal in rushes disappeared from northern continents. Bow- South Florida were littered with mudfish carcasses, fins, gars, and sturgeons outlasted the sabretooth a boon for vultures and other scavengers. Some tiger, the wooly mammoth, Nethanderthal man, and states even had an official policy of mudfish remov- will most likely outlast the human species – if we do al or eradication, even though this is a native spe- not drive them to extinction first (we have already cies. Lately, however, the mudfish has gained in Fall (October) American Currents 28 esteem as a feisty gamefish, a great fighter worthy of tem of motion-sensing lateral line organs arrayed in respect. There is even a mudfish anglers association, tiny pits over the head. It also has large nasal rosettes. the “Bowfin Anglers Group”3, which touts the bow- A special adaptation of the mudfish is its abil- fin as “America’s toughest sportfish.” The lowly ity to breathe air, a legacy of evolution during the mudfish has also come into favor on the dinner table tropical climate of the Mesozoic, and an essential as well, a tasty menu alternative – not only in Loui- ingredient of its competitive success. Back then, siana. And, over the past two decades, it has also lakes, ponds, and swamps frequently became stag- become prized for its large black eggs, which make nant or reduced to mudholes. Like most other fishes, high-quality caviar selling for $10-$15 per ounce. the mudfish normally uses its gills to obtain dissolved A voracious predator, the mudfish is the king oxygen from the water. Those gills are unique, spe- of its local realm. It gets big – up to nearly three feet cialized to deal with low oxygen. But, the mudfish long and twenty pounds (world record 21.5 pounds). has another fallback when dissolved oxygen drops Don’t let that habit of lulling around, or undulating near zero. When that happens, the mudfish shifts to the dorsal fin in slow motion fool you. The mudfish breathing air directly, coming to the surface to gulp is no slacker. A lion among fishes, this is a fear- for a refill periodically. Its gasbladder, used by most some ambush predator, striking with a lightning- modern fishes simply to adjust buoyancy (like a fast forward lunge, securing its prey with formidable SCUBA diver’s buoyancy compensator – or BC), teeth and powerful jaws. It will eat nearly anything doubles as a lung in the bowfin. A duct connects the from crayfish to catfish – and will mangle your hand foregut to the gasbladder, and the lining of that organ if you let it. But a high-energy strike is not always is packed with a myriad of tiny blood vessels that called for. An opportunist, the mudfish will adjust to absorb oxygen. As a result, the mudfish thrives in the occasion. When “minnows” or tadpoles are places where few other large fishes can survive, schooling along the riverbank or the edge of a including stagnant backwater channels, swamps, and pond, a large mudfish can sometimes be seen small ponds. It can even survive brief periods totally working the shoreline, swimming forward slowly, encased in damp mud. Much like the lungfish, the capacious mouth yawning periodically to gulp down mudfish appears able to hibernate for a while, wait- a whole group of hapless victims. When the mouth is ing for the water to return. No modern fishes can suddenly opened and the gills flared, powerful suc- match that ability. tion is created – an ancient feeding adaptation in One more remarkable adaptation completes the bowfin, later re-invented and refined in modern the unique mudfish package – accounting for the fishes like the largemouth bass and groupers. Large name “Bowfin.” Maneuvering in close quarters and eyes suggest that visual feeding is the rule. How- in heavy vegetation can be a problem, especially for ever, bowfin also feed nocturnally – with prey a large fish. But nature has provided the mudfish detection undoubtedly facilitated by a complex sys- with an elegant solution. By undulating its long dor-

Formidable Fang-like Teeth of the Bowfin 29 American Currents Vol. 38, No. 4 sal fin in sinuous waves, the bowfin can swim for- ward or backward with equal ease and with mesmer- izing stealth. It simply reverses the direction of the fin wave to shift from forward to reverse. It can also scull in place with similar wave-like undulation of the caudal fin. This stationary tactic is good for just hanging around without much effort and for hiding in plain sight, looking much like a submerged log. But real power is required for those lunging preda- tory strikes, mouth open, teeth bared. On such occa- sions the long, thick body musculature drives the fish The long undulating dorsal fin of the Bowfin forward in a sudden burst. However, the rounded caudal fin reveals that the bowfin is not built for a sustained chase – just for short-range strikes. length of about one foot in their first year. They live Mudfish romance and reproduction is a com- 10-15 years maximum, but few will survive beyond plicated spring affair. Depending on latitude, and age five. Sexual maturity comes at age 2-3. proper water temperature (61-66º F), mudfish spawn When landed after a tough fight, a played- from late February through June. Excavated by the out mudfish generally looks a monotone dull gray male, a circular depression, up to 2-3 feet across is with indistinct markings, and a whitish belly. But, in cleared of debris to expose clean, hard substrate. life, the mudfish displays a color pattern varying from Weed beds and roots are then matted down to dramatic dark lines on the head and wavelike mark- complete the nest. To advertise his amorous inten- ings along the body and through the dorsal and cau- tions, the male mudfish sports a brilliant emerald dal fin, to a mottled or reticulated pattern designed for green color, with yellow and orange highlights. If the camouflage over vegetated substrate. Breeding males female is not impressed by either the nest or the color up with splashes of yellow and orange on a resplendent display of color, the male will prod her lateral field of green, and a contrasting belly ranging with chases, nudges, and general rough-housing. from bright white to turquoise. Juveniles of both Mudfish love is not a gentle affair, nor is it monoga- sexes bear a characteristic large black spot on the mous. Male and female will pair up, lying side by upper caudal fin base. In adult males, this spot is side as the eggs are laid and fertilized. But one and typically ringed in yellow or orange. But, the spot done is not the rule. When the first female departs, normally disappears in adult females – or if present, the male will approach another lady and repeat the lacks the outer ring. The spot recalls the similar sequence. Eggs are adhesive, sticking to hard sub- black spot of the redfish (red drum), in roughly the strate. Guarded continuously by the aggressive male, same location. The mudfish “ eyespot” probably the eggs hatch in about 8-10 days. But the larvae, serves a dual purpose. In small mudfish, it may equipped with an adhesive gland on the forehead, serve as a predator startle device – fooling a potential remain glued to the nest for another 8-10 days (an predator into thinking it has encountered a big foe. Or odd adaptation also found in gars). No need to eat just yet – the large football- shaped yolk sac pro- vides nutrition while the mouth and digestive sys- tem develop. When finally unglued, hatchling mud- fish form schools, still guarded by the vigilant male until they are about 3-4 inches long. Then, the school breaks up and individual fish venture forth to lead solitary lives. Hatchlings feed on tiny planktonic invertebrates such as water fleas and midge larvae, but later switch to a fish and crayfish diet. Feeding voraciously and growing rapidly, mudfish reach a Fall (October) American Currents 30 is may serve as a decoy. A predator, thinking it is recipes for everything from Cajun fried choupique fish striking at the “head” may be tricked into attacking cakes, to Bowfin stew, pickled Bowfin, and mudfish the tail – and fooled as the mudfish escapes in the tacos. If you land a gravid female laden with black eggs, “wrong” direction. The prominent yellow-ringed you can try preparing your own homemade caviar – spot in adult males is probably used for sex rec- using essentially the same cleaning and salting process ognition during mating. used to prepare sturgeon caviar4. Don’t want the mess Want to try angling for mudfish? Cut bait is and bother? You can find “Bowfin” caviar online, but do the ticket for this meat-eater. Want to learn more not search using the unsavory name “mudfish”. Be pre- mudfish angling methods? Check out that “ Bowfin pared to shell out about $50 or more for that 4-ounce tin Anglers Group” website. A large mudfish will fight of Bowfin caviar - plus more for the refrigerated over- fiercely and, when landed, this slippery critter will be night delivery. There is an unfortunate flipside to the hard to hold onto. Watch out for those sharp teeth! In recent (late 1980s) discovery that mudfish eggs make Florida bowfins can be found along vegetated river fine caviar. Generally considered a “rough” fish, and banks, in quiet areas among the lily pads, in back- long unregulated in state commercial and sport fisheries, waters far upstream, and sometimes in vegetated the lucrative mudfish caviar fishery has rapidly depleted spring runs. When you reel one in, either keep it alive the species in many areas. Harvest for caviar has driven until ready to cook, or filet the fish and put the filets mortality rates in Louisiana and the upper Mississippi on ice right away. If you let the flesh sit out and get River to 35-58%5, unsustainability high. A few states warm, or just gut the fish and throw it into the frying have now imposed sportfishing harvest regulations or pan, you’ll quickly learn how the “mudfish” got its commercial harvest bans to protect the Bowfin from name. Without proper preparation, the mudfish can overfishing. indeed taste muddy. Along with sharks, lungfishes, If you find the prehistoric Bowfin to your taste, and a few other ancient fishes, the mudfish has don’t go whole hog. As a top predator, the mudfish natu- evolved a unique way of dealing with toxic meta- rally accumulates mercury and other heavy metals. A big bolic wastes. In the tropical climate of the Mesozoic old mudfish can carry a heavy dose of mercury. The world, freshwater lakes and ponds often dried up. state of North Carolina has warned that children and Converting wastes to urea evolved as a nifty adapta- expectant mothers should never consume Bowfin, and tion to detoxify nitrogenous wastes in the blood, also that healthy adults should limit bowfin meals to two per preventing fouling of the local pond with urine. The month. Sure, go ahead put the newly appreciated mud- urea trick has been elaborated most elegantly in fish on your menu – but just not too often! lungfishes, which store high concentrations of urea in 1 Robins, C. R. 2004. Common and Scientific Names of Fishes from the blood, enabling them to hibernate for long periods the US and Canada. Sixth Edition. American Fisheries Society of time. The mudfish does not go quite so far. But, it Special Publication No. 29, Bethesda, MD,183 pp. 2 Alabama sturgeon, European sturgeon, Syr-Darya Amu-Darya, and Dwarf does neutralize toxic ammonia by converting it to sturgeons in eastern Asia, and the Chinese paddlefish. urea before excreting that urea to the environment, 3 www.bowfinanglers.com 4 http://blog.kitchenmage.com/2005/10/homemade_caviar.html just as sharks do. In any event, urea in the blood and 5 Koch, J. D., M. C. Quist, K. A. Hansen, and G. A. Jones. 2009. muscles makes for a nasty taste in fishes. So, as the first Population dynamics and potential management of bowfin (Amia calva) in the upper Mississippi River. Journal of Applied step in getting mudfish on your menu, it is a good idea Ichthyology 25:545-550. to bleed the fish just like a shark, soaking the flesh in freshwater thereafter to wash out urea. Fileting to remove the fat-laden backbone, then cutting out the fatty belly meat is also recommended. OK, so you have caught a nice big Bowfin, fileted it, and iced it down. Now – how to prepare this fish for the table? Fortunately, there are lots of recipes out there already. Start by revisiting that “Bowfin Anglers Group” website again3. There you will find Newly-hatched yolksac larva of the Mudfish