Ecuador Galápagos Archipelago 26Th April to 5Th May 2018 (10 Days) Trip Report
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Ecuador Galápagos Archipelago 26th April to 5th May 2018 (10 days) Trip Report Waved Albatross by Dušan Brinkhuizen Trip report compiled by Tour Leader: Dušan Brinkhuizen Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Ecuador Trip Report – RBL Ecuador - Galápagos Archipelago 2018 2 Tour Summary Rockjumper’s amazing Galápagos adventure started at the airport of San Cristobál – the easternmost island of the archipelago. Our first bird of the trip was a stunning Mangrove Warbler hopping in the arrivals hall! Mangrove Warbler is a split from American Yellow Warbler and the distinct race aureola is only found in the Galápagos and Cocos Island. Some people saw the first Darwin’s finches from the bus during a short drive to our hotel in town. After a delicious lunch in a restaurant (lots of fresh fish available on the islands!), we started our afternoon excursion to the highlands of San Cristobál. The walk up to El Junco lagoon was scenic. We got close encounters with Grey Warbler-Finch of the San Cristobál race and also identified our first Small and Medium Ground Finches. We got to the lake just before a thick ocean mist came in. The crater lake was formed by the collapsed caldera of a volcano and is the only freshwater site on the island. It’s a great place to watch Magnificent Frigatebirds come to drink in an almost surreal setting. It was Steve that picked out a female Great Frigatebird – a scarcer species here – that we identified by the red eye-ring. White- Grey Warbler-Finch by Dušan cheeked Pintails with ducklings were present on the lake, as Brinkhuizen well as a few Common Gallinules. On our way down to the tortoise breeding centre, we stopped for our first San Cristobál Mockingbird perched on a wire. This endangered island endemic was our principal target for the afternoon. Shortly after, we watched more mockingbirds at the car park of La Galapaguera breeding centre. A Paint-billed Crake was briefly observed by a few people at a small pond along the trail. Luckily, it was Tyler that rediscovered the bird nearby and everybody was able to see this secretive species as it walked through the dense bushes. Dark-billed Cuckoo was another great bird that we got to see here. We then searched for Vegetarian Finch, but without success, as it was getting late. Back in the town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno we had a nice dinner. We also picked up our snorkelling gear and swimsuits for the next day! Today we visited the fantastic Española Island. Departing the harbour of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, we got our first Lava Gull and Lava Heron, both sought-after endemics. Two cracking Galápagos Petrels flew by our boat at close range shortly after departure! This Critically Endangered endemic is pelagic during the day but we still saw fair numbers of them. A Band-rumped Storm Petrel, another pelagic species, flew along with the boat and showed really well. Galápagos Shearwaters were a common sight at sea and we also got our first adult Waved Albatross on the Galápagos Petrel by Dušan Brinkhuizen way! At Gardner Island we did our first snorkelling Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Ecuador Trip Report – RBL Ecuador - Galápagos Archipelago 2018 3 excursion, which was fantastic. The highlight must have been the Galápagos Sea Lions that we played with up-close, but the great number of colourful fish was also amazing! A Lava Heron was also very approachable while snorkelling. Once we landed on Española, our endemic targets were observed fairly quickly. The Española Mockingbird greeted us at the beach and they were especially interested in Kani’s water bottle. A small family group of Galápagos Dove also showed well at close range. Actually, on Galápagos, almost all the wildlife is observed at close range: binoculars are often not needed! We had already seen Galápagos Hawk at Gardner, but another bird was perched at Punta Suarez. Española Cactus Finch was the final endemic that we needed here, and several were seen along the rocky trail to the albatross colony. The nesting birds at Punta Suarez were amazing, with Blue- footed and Nazca Boobies, Swallow-tailed Gull and Red-billed Tropicbirds all around us! However, the star bird must have been the Waved Albatross. This Critically Endangered near-endemic nests on Española in large numbers and the island holds about 99.9% of the entire world population (a few pairs nest on Isla de la Plata off mainland Ecuador). We got to see many adults at their nests, some displaying but also several of these majestic albatrosses in flight – a lifetime birding experience, without a doubt! The following day we visited Punta Pitt, a remote site on the far eastern tip of San Crisóbal. We did not see many Waved Albatrosses by Jorn Zeiler seabirds like the day before, but at Kicker Rock we ran into a spectacular pod of Common Bottlenose Dolphins. At a scenic cliff locally named “the cathedral”, we watched a nice flock of Brown Noddies. A small rock at Punta Pitt was literally crowded with seabirds, including nesting Wedge-rumped Storm Petrels and Swallow-tailed Gulls. This is where we went into the water again, and the snorkelling was spectacular, possibly even better than the day before, with all the seabirds above our heads! Again, we played with Galápagos Sea Lions and the reef fish were just mind-blowing. After lunch on the boat, we did the scenic trail up to Punta Pitt. This is a key nesting site for Red-footed Boobies and we saw both white and brown morphs at their nests. Actually, all three booby species were available here for close viewing. The Blue-footed Boobies were actually blocking the trail with their nests! San Cristobál Mockingbirds were present in the scrub near the beach. On our way back an adult summer Franklin’s Gull flew along with our boat for a minute. After a nice dinner in town we visited the Galápagos Sea Lion harem, which was a very noisy, smelly and surreal scene! Semipalmated Plover and Yellow-crowned Night Heron were new birds added to the list after dusk. Red-footed Booby by Dušan Brinkhuizen Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Ecuador Trip Report – RBL Ecuador - Galápagos Archipelago 2018 4 The following morning, we boarded a speedboat that brought us to Floreana Island. Pelagic birding was a little tough because of the speed, but we did stop for a few Waved Albatrosses and another pod of Common Bottlenose Dolphins. Our principal target for the morning was the exceedingly rare and localised Floreana "Charles" Mockingbird. Two tiny populations survive on the small satellite rocks of Champion and Gardner-by-Floreana. The species became extinct on mainland Floreana soon after Darwin collected it, mainly because of the introduction of rats and cats. We circumnavigated Champion Islet and it was Steve that spotted the first Floreana Mockingbird atop a cactus: two more adults popped up, all colour-banded, and everybody got excellent views of this rare endemic! We continued to the mainland, where we got a pleasant “chiva” truck drive up into the highlands. At the site called Asilo de la Paz, we quickly located the endemic Medium Tree Finch. Phenotypically the pair looked perfect for Medium, but recent hybridisation with Small Tree Finch has complicated the situation on the island in terms of identification. We also photographed a colour-banded individual, and researchers would probably be able to tell us the genetic composition of this particular bird. During our walk, we saw various Small and Medium Tree Finches, but also Galápagos Flycatchers. Christopher enjoyed a shaded seat below a tree and got a Dark-billed Cuckoo right above his head! Back in the small town of Floreana, we had a nice local lunch and Common Floreana Mockingbird by Dušan Cactus Finches showed well along the main street. In the Brinkhuizen afternoon, we continued to Isabela Island. Pelagic birding was good but also challenging, with a White- faced Storm Petrel swiftly seen by the tour leaders only. When we turned the boat we saw various Elliot’s Storm Petrels, Brown Noddies and Galápagos Shearwaters, but the rare White-faced was nowhere to be found. Further offshore, we stopped for a whale blow. We got incredible close-up looks of a huge whale that we later identified as Bryde's Whale on the basis of photos of the dorsal fin – a spectacular sight! In the late afternoon we reached Tortuga Island, where we got to see Swallow-tailed Gulls, lots of boobies and a nice Wandering Tattler. In the harbour of Puerto Villamil, we got a few Lava Gulls before it got dark. In the early morning, we drove up into the highlands of southern Isabela to the Sierra Negra Volcano. Our principal target for the morning, Galápagos Crake, was heard soon after arrival. With careful help of a remote playback setup, we eventually lured the bird out in a small window that provided us with Galápagos Crake by Dušan Brinkhuizen excellent views of this elusive endemic! At another nearby spot, we suddenly watched an adult walk out in the open and some even got to see a chick! At the same site, we got to see our first Woodpecker Finch. This distinct finch proved to be Rockjumper Birding Tours View more tours to Ecuador Trip Report – RBL Ecuador - Galápagos Archipelago 2018 5 fairly common along the trail up to the volcano crater. Green Warbler-Finch was another new addition to the growing list of seen endemics. The walk up to the crater was beautiful and we saw a lot of birds, including nesting Small Tree Finch and a curious pair of Galápagos Mockingbirds.