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Hokkaido Food Culture: Mentsuyu and the Emergence of Kombu Soy Sauce Professor Hiroshi Tachi, Tokyo University of Agriculture

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Hokkaido Food Culture: Mentsuyu and the Emergence of Kombu Soy Sauce Professor Hiroshi Tachi, Tokyo University of Agriculture Hokkaido Soy Sauce Hokkaido Food Culture: Mentsuyu and the Emergence of Kombu Soy Sauce Professor Hiroshi Tachi, Tokyo University of Agriculture 1. Hokkaido Development Commission and 2. Hokkaido: Essential in Japan’s Defense Soy Sauce Brewing During World War II, Hokkaido was a key strategic point The history of soy sauce brewing in Hokkaido is in the defense of the north against Russia, as shown by the relatively new. The early-Meiji administration unit for presence of the elite seventh division of the Japanese army. Hokkaido, the Hokkaido Development Commission, Much soy sauce was sent from around Japan at that time, was established in 1869, leading to rapid migration from but the government recognized the risk to supply for the other areas and prompting the brewing of soy sauce in army and the general public in Hokkaido were Russia to Hokkaido for the first time. The first Hokkaido-based block the Tsugaru Straits. This prompted an overhaul of soy sauce brewery was established in Sapporo by the Hokkaido's industrial structure: the government slashed Commission in 1877 and later sold to the private sector. the number of sake brewing factories by half and forced The government strategy of kickstarting the soy sauce the others to divert their resources to other activities. industry by building factories which were then sold to Nihon Shoyu Kogyo Co., Ltd. (Kikko Nihon) located in the private sector resulted in a well-developed industry Asahikawa is one example of a soy sauce factory born of 16 companies in the Sapporo soy sauce manufacturing through this process. Originally the Asahikawa home of association by 1899. Nippon Seishu Co., Ltd., it shifted to soy sauce production In many areas around Japan, local soy sauce production after taking shipment of koji mold spores and starter was started either by village headmen making soy sauce moromi from Noda Shoyu Co., Ltd. Records show the first to distribute to residents, sake brewers transferring shipment was sent on January 26, 1945. Given the volume their brewing technology to soy sauce production, or of total soy sauce imports from outside Hokkaido at the through the establishment of soy sauce brewers in the time was 7,200 kiloliters a year, the company’s annual more populated castle towns and post towns, leading to production volume of 3,600 kiloliters was highly significant diverse styles. In Hokkaido’s case, in contrast, breweries and indicates the scale of the factory. Nihon Shoyu Kogyo based their production on the dark Kanto-style koikuchi was established through a 6:4 investment by Noda Shoyu soy sauce modeled in the government-operated factories, Co., Ltd. and Nippon Seishu Co., Ltd. Later after Noda leading to a homogeneous style throughout the vast north Shoyu became Kikkoman Corporation, it bought all the island. The words of the president of one present-day soy shareholdings in Nippon Seishu, making Nihon Shoyu sauce maker in Hokkaido – “Taiho, Toyota, Kikkoman” Kogyo an associate company in the Kikkoman group. The – show Hokkaido residents’ preference for major brands, relationship between these companies is believed to have making it difficult for smaller scale local manufacturers played a major role in dark Kanto-style koikuchi soy sauce to compete. becoming the leading style of soy sauce in Hokkaido. Founded 70 years ago, Nihon Shoyu Kogyo is the oldest soy sauce brewing business in Asahikawa, and its office building has been recognized by an association concerned with the preservation of historic buildings in Asahikawa City for retaining its appearance from the time of establishment. Original compressing equipment and other such facilities also still exist at the factory site, Hokkaido Development Commission’s first Sapporo soy sauce brewery, but unfortunately, they 1877 (Held by University of Hokkaido Library) are not currently in use. While there is no profit to be gained from Hiroshi Tachi these old facilities, I ■Research areas: Zymurgy and applied microbiology sincerely hope they ■Educational background: Completed a master’s course at the Department of Agricultural Chemistry, the Graduate will be maintained for School of Agriculture, Tokyo University of Agriculture, their historical value. Nihon Shoyu Kogyo Co., Ltd. and holds a Ph.D. in agricultural chemistry ■Present positions: Professor at the Tokyo University of Agriculture, Chairman of the University Ballroom 3. Hakodate: A Base for Fishery in the Northern Sea Dance Club Federation in Japan, Vice President of the At its peak, there were 28 soy sauce manufacturers in Japanese Society of Wellness & Preventive Medicine, Executive Director of the Society of Practical Integrated Agricultural Sciences, Hakodate, but today there is only one. The city flourished Director of the Japan Soy Sauce Technology Center, Director of Central Fair in the 1950s and 1960s as a base for fishery in the Trade Control of Soy Sauce Manufacturing Industry, and many more ■Awards: Brewing Society of Japan Technical Award 1997, the Japanese northern sea, and this period also represents the busiest Society of Wellness & Preventive Medicine Dissertation Awards 2006, 2010 production years for the soy sauce makers. The system and 2012, Soy Sauce Technology Award 2009, and Japan Soy Sauce Association Distinguished Service Award 2010 of fishing in the northern sea consisted of fleets with a mother ship accompanied by multiple fishing vessels. 2 FOOD CULTURE FOOD CULTURE 3 Hokkaido, Kinki Soy Sauce There were separate fleets for Settlers on a farm (end Meiji Period) (Held by salmon and trout fishing, crab University of Hokkaido fishing, trawl net fishing, and long- Library) line cod fishing, among others. The New Hokkaido History registration records show that at the peak with a preference for soy sauces with strong over 1,000 vessels sailed from kombu kelp aromas (including processed soy Hakodate, including 16 fleets (461 sauce products). Hokkaido’s agricultural lands ships) for salmon and trout fishing, spread through cultivation most often by married and 36 fleets (408 ships) for trawl couples, meaning most households had two net fishing. It is said that the fleets working adults. Hearing that this contributed purchased such high volumes of to the proliferation of Menmi as a simple Northern seas fishing fleet soy sauce for their long voyages seasoning sauce that made meal preparation both faster (Source: The New Hokkaido History) that the makers could barely keep and easier, I believe this in turn created the foundation for pace with demand. While this is the subsequent quick uptake of slightly sweeter seasoning a digression from the discussion of soy sauce, apparently sauces rich in the flavor of dashi by the people of Hokkaido. when the fleets returned to the port of Hakodate, crewmembers headed straight to Hakodate's entertainment 5. The Birth of Kombu Soy Sauce district armed with wads of money they had earned at sea, Hokkaido has long been known as a kombu kelp greeted by signs of “Welcome Northern Sea Fishermen”. producer, transporting the kelp by Kitamae- Changing times mean periods of both growth and bune cargo ships that traveled up and down the decline, and Hakodate became famous as the origin of ika Japan Sea. Even though people had discovered shiokara, a dish of squid pickled in salted squid entrails. how good food tasted when prepared with soy However, these days, a decline in the squid catch means sauce and kombu stock, there were no pre- the dish is now made from imported squid. While visiting mixed kombu stock and soy sauce seasoning the Hakodate soy sauce manufacturer I heard a joke that products on the market. Hokkaido's Habomai was funny but slightly disturbing: “According to the fishery cooperative was commissioned by a Hakodate banks, it is one of the city’s seven wonders that soy sauce maker on the main island of Honshu the soy sauce manufacturer has not gone bankrupt.” I hope to produce a processed soy sauce, dashi shoyu, it’s because it is always anticipating change and finding combining kombu stock and soy sauce, which new fields to develop to keep pace. they called “Habomai kombu soy sauce”. It was released in 1991 and sales were so good that Mother Ship Fleet Fishing: Fishing Volumes by Type a Hokkaido soy sauce maker then asked the (Source: New Hokkaido History) Units: 000’s of tons Hidaka fishery cooperative in Hokkaido to make Type 1953 ’54 ’55 ’56 ’57 ’58 ’59 ’60 ’61 ‘62 a similar product, which also sold very well. Salmon and trout 14 38 116 92 100 91 70 53 53 44 One Hokkaido manufacturer started making a kombu soy Crab 2 2 12 22 21 20 19 19 21 25 sauce under its own brand, and competition grew very Trawl net — 12 9 24 24 46 157 456 622 540 tight when national soy sauce makers like Kikkoman Long-line cod — — 15 — — — — — — — started making similar products too. Companies now seek ways to differentiate their kombu soy sauce products, 4. Mentsuyu (noodle soup base) Culture including one particularly popular brand that contains In 1964, Kikkoman launched a concentrated sauce product kombu root pieces, adding pleasant viscosity to the sauce. called “Menmi”, which contained soy sauce, mirin (sweet A liking for kombu stock-based soy sauce appears to Japanese cooking wine), and five types of dashi stock have created a favorable environment in Hokkaido for the extracted from bonito flakes, dried sardines, kombu kelp, uptake of soy sauce products based on other kinds of stock mackerel flakes, and scallops. The rich umami flavor made as well. The production of the first-ever kombu soy sauce it popular not only as a noodle soup base, but also as a basic in Hokkaido several decades ago seems to have served seasoning for all kinds of Japanese cuisine, such as rice- as the forerunner to the current nationwide popularity of based bowl dishes, simmered dishes, hot pots and oden – combined stock and soy sauce products.
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