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& ALGARVE destinations Life’s a peach Glamorous golf or wild cliff- edged beaches? You’ll find it all in the Algarve, writes David Whitley

he Algarve has long reached Atlantic-thrashed and wild, while FARO factor than the displays, although Told favourite status, but it the riverlands of the east are Why? The entry point to the the mosaic-packed section on is not easily pigeonholed. The sweetly bucolic. Algarve is often skipped over, the Algarve’s Roman history is southern Portuguese region The region is manageable as but Faro is the one place on the pretty impressive. is great for a fun in the sun most sights and activities of Algarve that feels like a real city Faro’s highlight, though, is the holiday, and perennially popular interest are within two hours’ that is not entirely given over Parque Natural da . with families and mature drive of the main accommodation to tourism. A sizeable student The lagoon-esque estuary filled travellers alike. But there’s also areas. But at the same time, population helps, ensuring the with mudflat islands is a haven a significant strand of activity- there’s no one obvious central bars retain a local feel. for birds, and several boat trips based holidays – most notably hub. Picking the right spot for What to do: The cathedral depart from the marina, weaving golf, but also walking, kayaking a client’s interests, likes and is rather squat-looking from through the channels. Some and surfing. dislikes isn’t quite a fine art, the outside, but inside it’s involve beachy island stays, but There are large differences but it can make the difference wonderfully OTT, offering Formosamar runs a small wooden in character across the region. between a decent holiday and a baroque fest of carvings, boat tour specifically intended The central south coast is highly a great one. Energy levels vary lacquering and engraving. for watching the storks, egrets, developed, but inland is all cute along the coast, with history and For culture lovers, there’s spoonbills and other birdlife. villages, cork plantations and old-fashioned charm stronger the Museu Municipal de Faro, formosamar.com gentle-to-moderate hills. The in some areas than others. This which is in a former convent. The Stay: The Eva by the side of the west coast, on the other hand, is feature covers the plum picks. building provides more of a wow marina is the top choice in

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Faro. There’s a pseudo-cool minimalism w LAGOS freeform pool, its own football pitch, going on, but the position is great, and Why? Lagos is in the curious position courtyards full of exercise bikes and the 25 metres by 10 metres rooftop of being the indisputable party central tastefully decorated rooms themed pool has great views out over the of the Algarve, while also having the on different continents. Apartments Parque Natural. Doubles cost from €83. lion’s share of the history. Some of that cost from €201. ap-hotelsresorts.com history is dark – Lagos was a key slave cascaderesortalgarve.com trade hub. While it attracts swathes of w VILAMOURA holidaymakers, it is not purely a w Why? West of Faro, Vilamoura town, making it possibly the Algarve’s Why? Often tackled as a day or is purpose-built and deliberately best all-rounder. It’s at the western end half-day trip from Lagos, Sagres is upmarket. It’s all upmarket , of the main Algarve strip, and is a good an alternative base for the west. It’s , yachts on the marina and in base for exploring the wild west coast. quieter, popular with surfers, and home particular, golf courses. It merges into What to do: The Museu Municipal to a good selection of beaches. It , which is definitely mass segues into the marvellously gaudy attracts younger travellers who want market: high rise, cheap and cheerful, Santo António Church, but the star a little more than a week of respite by with a solid beach. attractions are on the water. Boat the pool. What to do: The Oceanico complex tours head out dolphin-watching, What to do: The Fortaleza de Sagres is and its seven championship courses while others pootle around the a mammoth defensive bulwark dating is a golfer’s dream. The Arnold Palmer- w PORTIMÃO What to do: The Museu de Portimão is above: multicoloured cliff faces, caves and back to Portugal’s Age of Discovery. designed Victoria course is arguably Why? There are two parts to Portimão. the best museum in the region. It tells Eva, Faro rock towers of the Ponta da Piedade. The bulky ramparted facade gives way the pick of the bunch. There’s the town itself, with its mosaic- the story of the Algarve’s history and The more adventurous can get closer to a windswept headland, with signs right: oceanicogolf.com tiled streets and a gorgeous riverfront. the fish-canning industry that shaped in a kayak. Outdoor Tours charges €25 explaining the flowers and clifftop Aquashow, Quarteira, meanwhile is home to the And there’s , which is the region. Cut-out figures, props and Quarteira for a half-day tour. perches for watching the waves big Aquashow water park, which also all about the beach, although it has original machinery convey the tale kayak-lagos.com hammer into the rocks. offers some animal attractions among some excellent restaurants too – and brilliantly, without the need for long- Stay: The sprawling Cascade Wellness Also nearby is the Cabo de São the pools and giant slides. it’s in this part of the Algarve that the winded explanations. and Lifestyle Resort has a health focus, Vicente, supposedly the most aquashowpark.com seafood is particularly impressive. museudeportimao.pt as the name suggests. It has a huge southwesterly point in mainland

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right: Portimão museum

far right: Pousada do Convento da Graça

below: Victoria golf course, Oceanico in Vilamoura

Europe. Go, admire the lighthouse and What to do: A day out exploring the end of the earth feel, and don’t think unspoilt eastern Algarve from too hard about how meaningless that The seven-mile-long, is highly advisable. The drive up to ‘most southwesterly’ boast is. along the River, sample There are also plenty of surf schools dune-backed Ilha de which forms the border with Spain, is product in Sagres, with WaveSensations Tavira is for many tourists gorgeous, as is the castle once there. offering beginners’ lessons for €50. the most impressive On the way back, there’s an even That said, the real surf scene is on beach in the Algarve bigger castle at and Jet2holidays the west coast, especially around the striking architecture at Vila Real de San offers a week self- world-class breaks at António. Then there’s the honeypot, catering at the and Praia do Amado. tiny clifftop hamlet of Cacela Velha, three-star Falésia where the setting and blue-painted Mar in Olhos w TAVIRA buildings are wonderfully photogenic. de Agua, which Why? If Lagos is the best hub for promenadable riverbanks are peaceful Stay: The Pousada do Convento da is under new exploring the west, Tavira is the best attractions, but the seven-mile-long, Graça is a bit special. The converted management for for exploring the east. It’s one of the dune-backed Ilha de Tavira is the star. monastery has ruined castle walls by 2017, with flights prettiest, most atmospheric towns A short ferry ride from the town centre the pool, plus high-ceilinged bedrooms from Stansted on the Algarve coast, and has an and part of the Parque Natural da Ria with dark wood floors and high thread departing older, quieter vibe. Whitewashed Formosa, for many this is the most count linen. Rooms cost from €157. May 4, from buildings, distinctively tiled roofs and impressive beach in the Algarve. pousadas.pt/en £229 including baggage and transfers. jet2holidays.com

Classic Collection Holidays offers seven nights with breakfast at Ria Park Hotel & Spa from £939 in June, based on two sharing a deluxe room with flights from Gatwick to Faro and private transfers. classic-collection. co.uk

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