05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 4

1 The Best of

Centuries ago, Portugal was a pioneer of worldwide exploration. Until recently, how- ever, it was never as successful in attracting visitors to its own shores. Outside of greater , the Algarve, and the island of , Portugal remained unknown and undiscovered by the mainstream visitor for many decades. Today’s travelers are beginning to realize that Portugal was unjustly overlooked. It offers sandy beaches, art treasures, flavorful cuisine, a unique form of architecture (Manueline), charming handicrafts, a mild climate, moderate rates, and polite and friendly people. Only 2 million annual visitors came to Portugal in the late 1970s. The number swelled to 20 million in the mid-1990s, and an explosion of hotel and building has kept pace. Today Portugal attracts some 22 million visitors annually. Despite its small size—225km (140 miles) wide and 612km (380 miles) long— Portugal is one of the most rewarding travel destinations in Europe. Exploring its towns, cities, villages, and countryside will likely take longer than expected because there is so much richness and variety along the way. The people, whose warmth is legendary, inhabit a land of extraordinary variety. You’ll see trees in the African-looking Algarve; cork forests and fields of golden wheat in ; ranches in Ribatejo; narrow, winding streets in the Alfama in Lis- bon; ox-drawn carts crossing the plains of Minho; and vineyards in the Douro. Azaleas, rhododendrons, and canna grow for miles on end; the sound of fado music drifts out of small cafes; windmills clack in the Atlantic breezes; boats bob in the bays; and gleaming whitewashed houses glisten in the sun. And the is never far away. The following list is merely a jumping-off point for the discoveries, like those by the mariners of old, that you’ll eventually make on your own in Portugal.

1 Frommer’s Favorite Portugal Experiences • Hiking in the Algarve: Portugal’s and , where eroded river incredible physical beauty makes it a valleys have changed little since the spectacular place for outdoor activi- Moorish occupation. See chapter 9. ties. In theCOPYRIGHTED southern Algarve region’s • Pousada-Hopping: MATERIALAfter World War low-lying lagoons and rocky high- II, the Portuguese government recog- lands, the panoramas extend for miles nized that the patrimony of its great over the nearby ocean. Especially past was desperately in need of reno- rewarding is trekking through the ter- vation. It transformed dozens of ritory near , which has retained monasteries, palaces, and convents its mystical hold on journeyers since into , honoring the historical it was known as the end of the world. authenticity of their architectural Other worthwhile hikes include the cores. Today’s travelers can intimately footpaths around the villages of Silves experience some of Portugal’s greatest 05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 5

FROMMER’S FAVORITE PORTUGAL EXPERIENCES 5 architecture by staying in a pousada, expanses of any coastal in north- part of a chain of state-owned and ern Portugal. -operated hotels. The rooms are often • Fishing in Rich Coastal Waters: Por- far from opulent, and the govern- tugal’s position on the Atlantic, its ment-appointed staffs will probably (largely) unpolluted waters, and its be more bureaucratic than you’d flowing rivers encourage concentra- like. Nonetheless, pousada-hopping tions of fish. You won’t be the first to rewards with insights into the Portu- plumb these waters—Portugal fed gal of long ago. itself for hundreds of generations • Playing Golf by the Sea: British mer- using nets and lines, and its maritime chants trading in Portugal’s excellent and fishing traditions are among the wines imported the sport of golf most entrenched in Europe. The mild around 1890. Until the 1960s, it weather allows fishing year-round for remained a diversion only for the very more than 200 species, including vari- wealthy. Then an explosion of interest eties not seen anywhere else (such from abroad led to the creation of at as the 2m-long/6-ft. scabbard). The least 30 major courses. Many courses country’s rivers and lakes produce lie near Estoril and in the southern three species of trout, black bass, and Algarve. The combination of great salmon; the cold Atlantic abounds in weather, verdant fairways, and azure sea bass, shark, tope, grouper, skate, and skies is almost addictive (as if and swordfish. golf fanatics needed additional moti- • Trekking to the End of the World: vation). For medieval Europeans, the south- • Swooning to Fado: After soccer, fado western tip of Portugal represented (which translates as “fate”) music is the the final frontier of human security national obsession. A lyrical homage and power. Beyond that point, the to the bruised or broken heart, fado oceans were dark and fearful, filled assumes forms that are as old as the with demons waiting to devour the troubadours. Its four-line stanzas of bodies and souls of mariners fool- unrhymed verse, performed by such hardy enough to sail upon them. legendary stars as Amalia Rodriguez, Adding Sagres and its peninsula to capture the nation’s collective uncon- the Portuguese nation cost thousands scious. Hearing the lament of the of lives in battle against the , fadistas (fado singers) in clubs is the and getting there required weeks of best way to appreciate the melancholy travel over rocky deserts. Making a dignity of Iberia’s western edge. pilgrimage to this outpost is one of • Finding a Solitary Beach: Portugal the loneliest and most majestic expe- has long been famous for the glamour riences in Portugal. Come here to pay and style of the beaches near Estoril, your respects to the navigators who Cascais, Setúbal, and Sesimbra. More embarked from Sagres on journeys to recently, the Algarve, with its 200km death or glory. Half a millennium (124 miles) of tawny sands, gorgeous later, the excitement of those long- blue-green waters, and rocky coves, ago voyages still permeates this lonely has captivated the imagination of corner. See chapter 9. northern Europeans. While the most • Losing It at a Spa: Compared to the famous beaches are likely to be very sybaritic luxury of spas in crowded, you can find solitude on the and , Portuguese spas are sands if you stop beside lonely underaccessorized, and by California’s 05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PORTUGAL frenetic standards, they’re positively the heart of the northern city of Porto sleepy. Still, central and northern Por- lies Vila Nova de Gaia, the headquar- tugal share about half a dozen spas ters of the port-wine trade since whose sulfur-rich waters have been the 1600s. From vineyards along considered therapeutic since the days the Douro, wine is transported to of the ancient Romans. Luso, Monte “lodges” (warehouses), where it is Real, and Curia are the country’s most matured, bottled, and eventually famous spas, followed closely by Cal- shipped around the world. More than das do Gerês, Vimeiro, and São Pedro 25 companies, including such well- do Sul. Don’t expect the latest in cho- known names as Sandeman, main- reographed aerobics and spinning tain port-wine lodges here. Each classes; instead, sink into communion offers free guided tours, always end- with nature, rid your body of the tox- ing with a tasting of one or two of the ins of urban life, and retire early every house wines. The tourist office in night for recuperative sleep. Porto will provide you with a map if • Tasting & Touring in Port Wine you’d like to drive along the Douro to Country: Across the Rio Douro from see the vineyards. See chapter 12.

2 The Best Towns to Visit • Sintra: Since the Moorish occupa- peace. Their story was at first dis- tion, Portuguese kings and nobles counted and then embraced by a have recognized this town’s irresistible church hierarchy under assault by the charm. You’ll find a denser concen- ravages of World War I. Later, 70,000 tration of beautiful and gardens people who were assembled on the here than you’ll find anywhere else in site claimed to witness miracles. Portugal. At least five major palaces Today Fátima is the most-visited and convents are tucked amid the pilgrimage site in Iberia, home to lush vegetation. See chapter 6. dozens of imposing churches and • Óbidos: This town is the most per- monuments. See chapter 8. fectly preserved 13th-century village • Évora: This is one of the country’s in central Portugal. Its historical most perfectly preserved architectural authenticity is the primary concern of gems. A well-preserved ancient Ro- the population of more than 5,000. man temple rises across the street For 600 years, Óbidos was the per- from convents and monasteries that sonal property of Portuguese queens, flourished when the kings of Portugal a symbolic love offering from their used this town as their in the adoring husbands. Óbidos has always 12th century. These buildings com- breathed romance. See chapter 8. bine with remnants of the Moorish • Nazaré: This folkloric fishing village occupation to form one of the most in central Portugal produces wonder- alluring, if not largest, architectural ful handicrafts. The town has a strong medleys in Europe. See chapter 10. sense of traditional culture that’s dis- • Tomar: Beginning in the 12th cen- tinctly different from that of nearby tury, the Knights Templar and later communities. See chapter 8. the Knights of Christ (two warlike • Fátima: In 1913, an apparition of the and semi-monastic sects) designated Virgin Mary appeared to three shep- Tomar as their Portuguese headquar- herd children from Fátima, who were ters. They lavished the town with called upon to spread a message of adornments over the centuries until it 05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 7

THE BEST BEACHES 7 looked, as it does today, like a living collection of distinctive and dignified monument to the architecture of public buildings. Its heyday was in medieval Portugal. See chapter 10. the 1500s, when fleets departed from • Coimbra: The country’s academic here to fish for cod as far away as center, this town boasts a university Newfoundland. Profits from their with roots in the Middle Ages, a rich activities helped pay for the town’s historic core, and a tradition of trou- handsome collection of Manueline badour-style singing that’s one of the buildings. See chapter 13. most vital in Iberia. See chapter 11. • Guincho: On the Estoril Coast, 9km 1 • Porto: The second city of Portugal, (5 ⁄2 miles) northwest of Cascais, this Porto has rich associations with the is the westernmost point in continen- port-wine trade. Entrepreneurs who tal Europe. It’s a dramatic, spectacu- returned home after making their lar site where waves crash against fortunes in Brazil built some of the three sides of a restored 17th-century town’s most imposing villas here in fortress (now the Hotel do Guincho, the late 19th century. But as Portu- one of the most unusual, luxurious gal’s economic center, Porto has also hotels in Europe). Balconies—best moved into the 21st century with shared with a loved one—overlook new office buildings, modern apart- the panoramic scene, with beaches on ment complexes, fashionable shops both sides. The crashing surf makes and restaurants in its commercial good background music for a torrid heart, and such stunning develop- affair straight out of a romance novel. ments as the Fundação de Serralves, a See chapter 6. National Museum of Modern Art, set • Serra de Arrábida: This whale- in a 44-acre park in the western part shaped ridge never exceeds 1,525m of the city. See chapter 12. (5,000 ft.) in height. The masses of • Guimarães: The birthplace of the wildflowers that flank its sides are country’s first king, Afonso Hen- among the most colorful and varied ríques, and the core from which the in Iberia. The Serra lies between Ses- country expanded, Guimarães is the imbra and Setúbal, across the estuary cradle of Portugal. Its medieval section of the Tagus from Lisbon. En route is one of the most authentic anywhere. from Lisbon, you’ll find crowded The town was also the birthplace of and secluded beaches, a medieval Gil Vicente (1470?–1536?), a play- Capuchin monastery (the Convento wright referred to as the Shakespeare Novo), and a smattering of good of Portugal. See chapter 13. restaurants. The town of Sesimbra, • Viana do Castelo: This northern with its historic, sleepy main square town with strong folkloric traditions and ruined fortresses, offers bars, is noted for pottery, women’s regional restaurants, and insight into the dresses, abundant rainfall, and a Iberia of a bygone era. See chapter 7.

3 The Best Beaches • Costa do Sol: Sometimes called the attracts throngs of tourists, mainly Estoril Coast, this stretch of seafront from . See chapter 6. extends 32km (20 miles) west of Lis- • The Algarve: This region at the bon. Its two major are Estoril southern tip of Portugal gained its and Cascais. Once the playground of place on world tourist maps because the wintering wealthy, the area now of its string of beautiful, clean, sandy 05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PORTUGAL beaches. Lovely coves, caves, and Buarcos. The beaches between Praia grottos—some accessible only by de Mira and Costa Nova are more boat—add to the region’s allure. secluded. See chapter 11. and are set • Costa Verde: As the northern coast- against a backdrop of towering rock line approaches Galicia in , the formations; the best cove beach is at Atlantic waters grow colder, and even Lagos, a former Moorish town with a in summer they’re likely to be deepwater harbor and wide bay. See windswept. But on certain days chapter 9. they’re among the most dramatic in • The Beiras: In central Portugal, Europe. We like the wide, sandy north of Lisbon, some of the finest beach at Ponte de Lima, but there are beaches in Europe open onto the many others. Notable destinations Atlantic. Like gems in a necklace, are the resort of Espinho, south of good, sandy beaches stretch from Porto, and other beach meccas, Praia de Leirosa north to Praia de including Póvoa do Varzim and Ofir, Espinho. The surf can be heavy and which have some of the best hotels, the undertow strong. Major resorts restaurants, and watersports equip- include Figueira da Foz and nearby ment in the country. See chapter 12.

4 The Best Hotels • Pestana Carlton Palace (Lisbon; furnishings that maintain the build- & 21/361-56-00; www.pestana. ing’s historical character without flat- com): One of the grandest hotels to tening your wallet. See p. 87. open in Portugal in years, this hotel • Albatroz (Cascais; & 21/484-73-80; lies in an upscale residential section www.albatrozhotels.com): In a gar- 5km (3 miles) from the historic cen- den overlooking the Atlantic, this inn ter. It was carved out of a built in was originally built as the summer 1907. It’s a stunning example of the residence of the dukes of Loulé. Since Romantic Revival architectural style. its transformation into a stylish hotel, See p. 92. its aristocratic elegance has drawn • Four Seasons Hotel The Ritz Lis- guests from throughout Europe. Ser- bon (Lisbon; & 800/819-5053 in vice is impeccable. See p. 161. the U.S., or 21/381-14-00; www.four • Palácio Hotel (Estoril; & 21/464- seasons.com): Built in the 1950s and 80-00; www.hotel-estoril-palacio.pt): host to a roster that reads like a who’s The Palácio enjoyed its heyday dur- who of international glamour, the ing the 1950s and 1960s, when every Ritz is one of Portugal’s legendary deposed monarch of Europe seemed hotels. Everywhere in the hotel, you’ll to disappear into the Art Deco hotel’s get the impression that a swanky sumptuous suites. The result: the reception is about to begin. See curious survival in Estoril of the royal p. 80. ambience of a Europe gone by. Today • York House (Lisbon; & 21/396-24- “the Palace” maintains a staff whose 35; www.yorkhouselisboa.com): A old-timers are among the best in former 17th-century convent and pri- Europe at offering royal treatment to vate home, York House is the place to guests. See p. 154. stay in Lisbon. It abounds with climb- • Tivoli Palácio de Seteais (Sintra; ing vines, antiques, four-poster beds, & 21/923-32-00; www.tivolihotels. and Oriental carpeting—fittings and com): One of the most elegant hotels 05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 9

THE BEST HOTELS 9 in Portugal bears one of the country’s Bittersweet memories of its royal past most ironic names. In 1807, a treaty still seem to linger within the thick ending the Napoleonic campaign in walls. See p. 303. Portugal was signed here, with terms • Ipanema Park Hotel (Porto; & 22/ so humiliating to the Portuguese that 532-21-00; www.ipanemaparkhotel. they labeled the building the Palace pt): One of the leading government- of the Seven Sighs. Any sighing you’re rated five-star hotels in the north of likely to do today will be from pleas- Portugal offers 15 floors of grand ure—at the setting, the lavish gar- comfort with the largest roster of dens, and the reminders of an facilities in the city, including an out- old-world way of life. See p. 178. door pool with a panoramic view on • Le Méridien Dona Filipa (; the 15th floor. This bastion of good & 28/935-72-00; www.lemeridien. taste and luxury is as popular with com): Rising above the sea, this tourists as it is with its business hotel is comfortable, modern, well clients. See p. 330. designed, and sophisticated, but the • Infante de Sagres (Porto; & 22/ most stunning feature is the 180 339-85-00; www.hotelinfantesagres. hectares (445 acres) surrounding it. pt): A textile magnate built this hotel Part of the land is devoted to a superb in 1951 in the style of a Portuguese golf course. Don’t let the severe exte- manor house. Its elegant detailing rior fool you—the inside is richly makes it appear much older than it appointed with Chinese and Por- is. It’s the most nostalgic, elegant, tuguese accessories, many of them and ornate hotel in Porto. The man- antique. See p. 253. agers began their careers here as • Monte do Casal (Estói; & 28/999- teenage bellboys, and the staff mem- 15-03): An 18th-century country bers take obvious pride in their hotel. house on the Algarve converted into See p. 328. one of the most charming and tran- • Reid’s Palace (Funchal; & 800/223- quil places along the coast, Monte do 6800 in the U.S., or 29/171-71-71; 1 Casal is set on 3 hectares (7 ⁄2 acres) of www.reidspalace.com): For more flowering trees. It offers a chance to than a century (it was founded in escape from the curse of the high-rise 1891 and enlarged in 1968), Reid’s sea resort hotels and into an inn of has fulfilled the colonial fantasies of style that captures some of the spirit every British imperialist abroad. Set of the region itself. See p. 261. on a rocky promontory, it serves tea • Palace Hotel do Buçaco (Buçaco; promptly at 4pm, contains English & 23/193-79-70; www.almeida antiques that the Portuguese staff hotels.com): This palace, built be- waxes once a week, and plays chimes tween 1888 and 1907 as a sylvan to announce the beginning of the refuge for the royal family, saw dinner service. It also features ter- tragedy early. A year after its comple- raced gardens spilling down to the tion, the king and his oldest son sea and a very correct clientele that were assassinated, leaving Queen once included Winston Churchill. Amélia to grieve within its - See p. 388. sheathed walls. In 1910, the palace’s • Praia d’el Rey Marriott Golf & enterprising Swiss chef persuaded the Beach Resort (Amoreira; & 26/290- government to allow him to trans- 51-00; www.marriott.com/lisdr): form the place into an upscale hotel. Devotees of modern luxury should 05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PORTUGAL head to one of the most spectacular course on 600 acres (243 hectares) of resorts north of Lisbon, 16km (10 oceanfront property. Its facilities miles) west of the romantic walled include a spa, health club, tennis city of Óbidos. It opens onto a sandy courts, and a choice of three first- beach and boasts an 18-hole golf class restaurants. See p. 203.

5 The Best Pousadas • Pousada de São Filipe (Setúbal; most recently renovated in 1992. It & 26/555-00-70; www.pousadas. offers comfortable, colorful lodgings. pt): During the 1500s, this structure See p. 275. served as a defensive link in a chain of • Pousada da Rainha Santa Isabel fortresses surrounding Lisbon. Today (Estremoz; & 26/833-20-75; www. it boasts antique (glazed pousadas.pt): Housed in a structure earthenware ), panoramic views built during the Middle Ages, the of the town, and a keen sense of Por- Santa Isabel is the most lavish pou- tuguese history. The rooms are simple sada in Portugal. Reproductions of (some might say monastic) but com- 17th-century antiques, about .5 1 fortable and tidy. See p. 196. hectares (1 ⁄4 acres) of gleaming mar- • Castelo de Óbidos (Óbidos; & 26/ ble, and elaborately detailed tapes- 295-50-80; www.pousadas.pt): This tries create one of the most authentic pousada lies in a wing of the castle old-fashioned decors in the region. that protects one of the most per- Guests have included Vasco da fectly preserved medieval towns in Gama, who was received here by Portugal. In 1285, King Dinis offered Dom Manuel before the explorer’s the castle—along with the entire vil- departure for India. See p. 272. lage—to his beloved Queen Isabel. • Pousada dos Lóios (Évora; & 26/ Inside, the medieval aesthetic coexists 673-00-70; www.pousadas.pt): This with improved plumbing, electricity, pousada was conceived as a mon- and unobtrusive contemporary com- astery and rebuilt in 1485 adjacent to forts. See p. 203. the town’s ancient Roman temple. • Pousada de (Elvas; The purity of its design and the & 26/863-74-70; www.pousadas.pt): absence of exterior encroachments This pousada opened in 1942 during from the modern world contribute to the most horrible days of World War one of the most aesthetically thrilling II, near the strategic border crossing experiences in Portugal. Inside there between neutral Portugal and Fascist are no traces left of its original auster- Spain. Vaguely Moorish in design, ity—everything is luxurious and with two low-slung stories, it was comfortable. See p. 278.

6 The Best Restaurants • Clara (Lisbon; & 21/885-30-53): and we sing their praise year after This elegant citadel, with a refined year for their impeccable offerings. dining room playing soft piano music See p. 96. and serving a remarkable Portuguese • Gambrinus (Lisbon; & 21/342-14- and international cuisine, is a favorite 66): It isn’t as upscale as some of among serious palates. The chefs take its competitors or the preferred special care with all their ingredients, rendezvous of the country’s most 05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 11

THE BEST RESTAURANTS 11 distinguished aristocrats. Nonethe- • Restaurante Porto de less, this is one of the hippest, best- (Guincho; & 21/487-10-36 or 21/ managed seafood restaurants in 487-02-40): The understated beige- Lisbon; the stand-up bar proffers an and-white decor highlights the rest- astonishing array of shellfish. Enjoy a aurant’s bubbling aquarium and sea glass of dry white port accompanied view. The menu lists nearly every by some of the most exotic seafood in conceivable kind of shellfish, served the Atlantic. See p. 96. in the freshest possible combinations • Casa da Comida (Lisbon; & 21/ in a justifiably popular dining room. 388-53-76): This restaurant is prob- See p. 171. ably at its best on foggy evenings, • Four Seasons (in the Palácio Hotel, when roaring fireplaces remove the Estoril; & 21/464-80-00): This tran- damp chill from the air. Don’t let the quil restaurant, with its rich colors and prosaic name fool you—some visitors artful accents, has been a fixture in prefer its Portuguese-French cuisine Estoril since the days when deposed over the food at any other restaurant European monarchs assembled here in Lisbon. Portions are ample, and with their entourages. High glamour, the ambience is bracing and health- old-world service, and impeccably pre- ful. See p. 94. pared international cuisine are this • Conventual (Lisbon; & 21/390-92- place’s hallmarks. See p. 156. 46): The facade that shields this • Casa Velha (, near restaurant from the medieval square Almancil; & 28/939-49-83): On a is as severe as that of a convent— rocky hilltop above the modern resort which, in fact, it used to be. Inside of Quinta do Lago (with which it is you’re likely to find the prime minis- not associated), this restaurant occu- ter of Portugal dining with assorted pies a century-old farmhouse, with ministers. You’ll always find a collec- kitchens modernized for the prepara- tion of panels from antique churches, tion of gourmet food. The sophisti- and rich but refined cuisine based on cated cuisine includes preparations the bourgeois traditions of Old Por- of upscale French and Portuguese tugal. See p. 98. recipes. See p. 254. • Cozinha Velha (Queluz; & 21/435- • Churrascão do Mar (Porto; & 22/ 02-32): During the 1700s, food for 609-63-82): Porto’s most elegant the monarchy’s most lavish banquets restaurant, serving a Brazilian cuisine, was prepared here (the name means is housed in a 19th-century antique “old kitchen”). Today the high- manor restored to its Belle Epoque ceilinged kitchens serve an unusual glory. The town’s finest chefs turn out restaurant whose cuisine reflects the a savory cuisine specializing in grilled old days of Portuguese royalty. Dishes seafood. See p. 335. include cataplana, a savory fish stew • Don Tonho (Porto; & 22/200-43- with clams, shrimp, and monkfish. 07): Visiting celebrities are usually Equally outstanding is soufflélike directed to this citadel of fine cuisine bacalhau espiritual (codfish), which (both European and Portuguese) in takes 45 minutes to prepare and the eastern end of this port city. The should be ordered when you make setting perfectly suits the bracing cui- your reservation. The restaurant is sine that often features freshly caught celebrated for its desserts, many of fish from the Atlantic. The prices are which are based on ancient convent also surprisingly affordable for such recipes. See p. 173. deluxe dishes. See p. 336. 05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PORTUGAL

7 The Best Palaces & Castles • Castelo de São Jorge (the Alfama, Bavarian castles of Mad King Lud- Lisbon; & 21/880-06-20): This hill- wig. Appointed with heavy furnish- top has long been valued as a fortifi- ings and rich ornamentation, it’s a cation to protect settlements along symbol of the Portuguese monarchs the Tagus. Today the bulky castle in their most aesthetically decadent crowns one of the most densely popu- stages. See p. 176. lated medieval neighborhoods of Lis- • Castelo dos Mouros (Sintra; & 21/ bon, the Alfama. It encompasses a 923-73-00): In the 19th century, the nostalgic collection of thick stone monarchs ordered that this castle, walls, medieval battlements, Catholic evocative of the Moorish occupation and feudal iconography, verdant of Portugal, remain as a ruined orna- landscaping, and sweeping views of ment to embellish their sprawling one of Europe’s greatest harbors. See parks and gardens. Set near the much p. 115. larger, much more ornate Pena palace • Palácio Nacional de Queluz (near (see above), the squat, thick-walled Lisbon; & 21/434-38-60): Designed fortress was begun around A.D. 750 for the presentation of music and by the Moors and captured with the royal receptions in the 1700s, this help of Scandinavian Crusaders in castle was modeled as a more inti- 1147. It retains its jagged battle- mate version of Versailles. It’s a ments, a quartet of eroded towers, symmetrical building ringed with and a ruined Romanesque chapel gardens, fountains, and sculptures of erected by the Portuguese as a symbol mythical heroes and maidens. Al- of their domination of former Moor- though gilt, crystal, and frescoes fill ish territories. See p. 174. its interior, most Portuguese are • Palace Hotel do Buçaco (Buçaco; proudest of the azulejos room, where & 23/193-79-70): Of all the build- hand-painted blue-and-white tiles ings in this list, the Palace of Buçaco depict day-to-day life in the Por- is the most important national icon. tuguese of Macao and Brazil. Completed in 1907, it’s also the only See p. 172. one that operates as a hotel, allowing • Palácio Nacional de Pena (Sintra; visitors to sleep within the walls of a & 21/910-53-40): Only a cosmo- former royal palace. Constructed politan 19th-century courtier could from marble, bronze, stained glass, have produced this eclectic, expensive and exotic hardwoods, and inspired mélange of architectural styles. Set in by the greatest buildings in the a 200-hectare (495-acre) walled park, empire, it represents more poignantly it was commissioned by the German- than any other Portuguese palace the born consort of the Portuguese final days of the doomed aristocracy. queen; it reminds some visitors of the See p. 303.

8 The Best Museums • Museu da Fundação Calouste Gul- 5% royalty on most of the oil benkian (Lisbon; & 21/782-30-00): pumped out of Iraq. His eclectic Its namesake was an Armenian oil collections of Asian and European czar, Calouste Gulbenkian (1869– sculpture, paintings, antique coins, 1955), whose fortune derived from a carpets, and furniture are on display 05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 13

THE BEST CHURCHES & ABBEYS 13 in a modern compound in a lush gar- was violently curbed. Many of the den. See p. 122. monasteries’ art treasures, including • Museu Nacional dos Coches (Lis- the country’s best collection of Por- bon; & 21/361-08-50): Founded by tuguese primitives, as well as gold and Queen Amélia in 1904, when the silver plates crafted from raw materi- horse-drawn buggy was becoming als mined in India, are displayed at obsolete, this museum is on the the 17th-century palace of the counts premises of the riding school of the of . See p. 120. Palácio do Belém (the official home • Museu de Marinha (Lisbon; & 21/ of the Portuguese president). It con- 362-00-19): The most important tains dozens of magnificent state maritime museum in the world—a carriages, some decorated with depic- rich tribute to Portugal’s Age of tions of Portugal’s maritime discover- Exploration—is in the west wing of ies. See p. 119. the Jerónimos Monastery. The thou- • Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga sands of displays include royal (Lisbon; & 21/391-28-00): In the galleons dripping with gilt and ringed 1830s, the power of many of Portu- with depictions of saltwater dragons gal’s fabulously wealthy monasteries and sea serpents. See p. 119.

9 The Best Churches & Abbeys • Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Belém; convent. Today the buildings alone & 21/362-00-34): More than any cover 4 hectares (9 acres) and include other ecclesiastical building in Portu- a royal palace as well as accommoda- gal, this complex represents the tions for 300 monks. A park whose wealth that poured into Lisbon from outer wall measures 19km (12 miles) the colonies during the Age of Dis- surrounds the complex. See p. 183. covery. Begun in 1502 in Belém, the • Mosteiro de Santa Maria (Alcobaça; seaport near the gates of Lisbon, it’s & 26/250-51-20): More closely the world’s most distinctive Manue- associated with the Portuguese wars line church. Richly ornate and unlike against the Moors than almost any any other building in Europe, it other site in Iberia, this monastery has, among other features, columns was a gift from the first Portuguese carved in patterns inspired by the rig- king (Afonso Henríques) to the Cis- ging of Portuguese caravels laden tercians in 1153. As part of one of the with riches from Brazil and India. See most dramatic land-improvement p. 118. projects in Portuguese history, a com- • Palácio Nacional de Mafra (Mafra; munity of ascetic monks cleared the & 26/181-75-50): This convent was surrounding forests, planted crops, originally intended to house only dug irrigation ditches, and built a about a dozen monks, but after the soaring church (completed in 1253) king of Portugal was blessed with an that critics cite as one of the purest heir, he became obsessed with its and most artfully simple in Europe. architecture and vastly augmented See p. 207. its scale. Construction began in 1717, • Mosteiro de Santa Maria da Vitória and funding came from gold im- (Batalha; & 24/476-54-97): In 1385, ported from Portuguese settlements the Castilian Spaniards and the Por- in Brazil. Some 50,000 laborers toiled tuguese, led by a youth who had been more than 13 years to complete the crowned king only a week before, 05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PORTUGAL fought one of the most crucial battles this convent was originally intended in Iberian history. The outcome as a monastic fortress. Successive ensured Portugal’s independence for building programs lasted half a another 200 years. It was celebrated millennium, ultimately creating a with the construction of the mon- museum of diverse architectural astery at Batalha, whose style is a styles. Some of the interior windows, triumph of the Manueline and Flam- adorned with stone carvings of ropes, boyant Gothic styles. See p. 214. coral, frigate masts, seaweed, cables, • Convento da Ordem de Cristo and cork trees, are the most splendid (Tomar; & 24/931-34-81): Built in examples of Manueline decoration in 1160 along the most hotly contested the world. See p. 266. Muslim-Christian border in Iberia,

10 The Best Shopping Here’s a list of some of the more enchant- painted on tiles and ceramic plates, ing artifacts and handicrafts produced in vessels, and jugs. Later, styles from Portugal: Holland, England, and China com- • Arraiolos Carpets: The Moorish tra- bined to influence a rich tradition of ditions that once prevailed in the pottery-making. The most prevalent town of Arraiolos, where the carpets of these appear as the blue-and-white are still manufactured, inspired their azulejos (tiles), each with an individual intricate stitching. Teams of embroi- design, which adorn thousands of derers and weavers work for many indoor and outdoor walls throughout days, using pure wool in combina- the country. Equally charming are the tions of petit point with more widely thousands of plates, wine and water spaced ponto largo cross-stitches. The jugs, and vases adorned with sylvan resulting depictions of garlands of landscapes populated with mythical fruit and flowers (a loose interpreta- creatures. New and (to a lesser extent) tion of French Aubusson carpets) and antique samples of any of these items animals scampering around idealized can be acquired at outlets throughout gardens (a theme vaguely inspired by Portugal. carpets from Persia and Turkey) are • Jewelry: In Portugal, any piece of jew- some of the most charming items for elry advertised as “gold” must contain sale in Portugal. The size of the piece at least 19.2 karats. This purity allows and the intricacy of the design deter- thousands of jewelers to spin the shin- mine the price, which is often less ing stuff into delicate filigree work than half what you’d pay in North with astounding detail. Whether you America. If you can’t make it to opt for a simple brooch or for a depic- Arraiolos, you’ll find the carpets for tion in gold or filigreed silver of an sale at outlets in Lisbon. 18th-century caravel in full four- • Ceramics & Tiles: Early in Portugal’s masted sail, Portugal produces jewelry history, builders learned to compensate worthy of an infanta’s dowry at prices for the lack of lumber by perfecting the more reasonable than you might arts of masonry, stuccoing, and ceram- expect. The country abounds in jew- ics. All were used to construct the elry stores. country’s sturdy, termite-proof build- • Handicrafts: For centuries, the ings. After the ouster of the Moors, design and fabrication of lace, rugs, their aesthetic endured in the designs hand-knit clothing, woodcarvings, 05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 15

THE BEST OFFBEAT TRIPS 15 and embroidered linens have evolved bullfighting, and cattle breeding, and in homes and workshops throughout the Portuguese leather-making indus- Portugal. Although some of the try is known throughout the world. cruder objects available for sale are a Its products include jackets, shoes, bit clunky, the best can be called art. pocketbooks, and wallets, all of From the north to the south, store which sell for prices much more rea- after store offers regional handicrafts. sonable than those outside Portugal. • Leather Goods: Iberia has always The best stores are concentrated in been a land of animal husbandry, Lisbon.

11 The Best Offbeat Trips • Horseback Riding Along the Coast: the remote Portuguese islands in the Seeing this beautiful country from the mid-Atlantic are the only remnants of back of a well-trained, even-tempered the lost continent of Atlantis. For Lusitano is a rewarding experience, hundreds of years they were consid- but some of the best opportunities ered the end of the earth, the outer can be had along the Atlantic Ocean limits of the European sphere of beach. Some of the best tours are influence, beyond which ships could available through the American com- not go. Even today they’re a verdant pany Equitour. In addition to beach but lonely archipelago where the riding, the company offers trekking winds of the ocean meet, cyclones call through olive groves, vineyards, pine on each other, and urbanites can lose forests, and lagoons. For more details, themselves in fog-bound contact with see chapter 2. the sea. See p. 412 for info. • Appreciating Manueline Architec- • Paying a Call on Berlenga Island: ture: Manuelino—as it’s known in Berlenga is a granite island 11km (7 Portuguese—marked a dramatic miles) west of the Portuguese coast- artistic shift from the late Gothic line. The island has always been the style prevalent during the reign of first line of defense against invaders King Dom Manuel. It mixes Christ- from the sea. In 1666, 28 Portuguese ian motifs with shells, ropes, and tried to withstand 1,500 Spaniards strange aquatic shapes and is usually who bombarded the site from 15 crowned with heraldic or religious ships. A medieval fortress demolished symbols. The best example is the in the battle was rebuilt several grand Monastery of Jerónimos in decades later and today houses a no- Belém, outside Lisbon, dating from frills hostel. The entire island and the the 16th century (see chapter 5). rocky, uninhabited archipelago that Another towering example is the surrounds it are a designated nature mysterious and astrologic visions of reserve whose flora and fauna—both the famous window of the Convento above and below the surface of the da Ordem de Cristo (Convent of sea—are protected from development Christ) in Tomar, the bastion of the and destruction. Boat transport Knights Templar in days gone by. See departs from the Peniche Peninsula, p. 256. about 92km (57 miles) north of Lis- • Visiting the Lost Continent of bon. See chapter 8. Atlantis: One of the most offbeat • Heading “Beyond the Mountains”: travel experiences in Europe is a trip The northernmost district of Trás-os- to the . Mythologists believe Montes is a wild, rugged land whose 05_181867 ch01.qxp 1/15/08 6:22 PM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF PORTUGAL name means “beyond the moun- water for irrigation, and thermal tains.” Exploring this region provides springs have bubbled out of the earth a glimpse into a Portugal infrequently since at least Roman times. You can seen by outsiders. Most of the popu- drive through these savage land- lation lives in deep valleys, often in scapes, but don’t expect superhigh- traditional houses built of shale or ways. What you’ll find are ruins of granite, and speaks a dialect of Gali- pre-Roman fortresses, dolmens, and cian similar to that spoken just across cromlechs erected by prehistoric the border in northwestern Spain. , and decaying old churches. See Much of the plateau is arid and rocky, chapter 13. but swift rivers and streams provide