Coast to Coast Path

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edition

ISBN 978-1-905864-96-6 7819059 864966

Price in USA US$19.95 EDN

1-800-462-6420 www.nbnbooks.com 8

DISTRIBUTED IN USA BY NBN

Price in UK UK£11.99

THE TRAVEL ALLIANCE 01225 406440

DISTRIBUTED IN UK & IRELAND BY

51995 >

waypoints and tracklog

Includes downloadable GPS o www.trailblazer-guides.com

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o Itineraries for all walkers – whether walk crosses three National ROBIN HOOD’S BAY ROBIN HOOD’S BAY National three crosses walk whether – walkers all for Itineraries o hiking the entire route or sampling high- Parks – the Lake District, the the District, Lake the – Parks high- sampling or route entire the hiking Yorkshire Dales and the the and Dales Yorkshire lights on day walks or short breaks BEES TO ST BEES TO ST breaks short or walks day on lights North York Moors. Moors. York North o Detailed public transport information information transport public Detailed o for all access points ‘The most complete complete most ‘The points access all for guide – with all the the all with – guide o Practical information for all budgets detail you’ll need for a a for need you’ll detail budgets all for information Practical o What to see; where to eat (cafés, pubs and walk in Wainwright’s Wainwright’s in walk and pubs (cafés, eat to where see; to What restaurants); where to stay (B&Bs, hotels, footsteps’. footsteps’. hotels, (B&Bs, stay to where restaurants); bunkhouses, hostels and campsites) THE SUNDAY TIMES TIMES SUNDAY THE campsites) and hostels bunkhouses, o Includes downloadable GPS www.trailblazer-guides.com www.trailblazer-guides.com GPS downloadable Includes o waypoints and tracklog 51995 > > 51995 tracklog and waypoints DISTRIBUTED IN UK & IRELAND BY BY IRELAND & UK IN DISTRIBUTED THE TRAVEL ALLIANCE % 01225 406440 406440 01225 % ALLIANCE TRAVEL THE Price in UK UK£11.99 UK£11.99 UK in Price

DISTRIBUTED IN USA BY NBN NBN BY USA IN DISTRIBUTED % 1-800-462-6420 www.nbnbooks.com 8 8 www.nbnbooks.com 1-800-462-6420 % Price in USA US$19.95 EDN EDN US$19.95 USA in Price

7819059 864966 864966 7819059 ISBN 978-1-905864-96-6 8th th 8 978-1-905864-96-6 ISBN edition edition

1803119_cover_CC2018.indd 1 Job: 701091 Title:14/03/2018 Coast 14:52 8 8 Coast Title: 701091 Job: DTP: FF Page: cvr cvr Page: FF DTP: Coast-8 00pp1-16colour-Q9_PrelimsTemplate8/3/182:42pmPage1 D or on Twitteron or @danielmccrohan. tures at own. adven- latest their with up his Keep on Yorkshire to tackle him leaving before District Lake the across right Dad with seven-year-old walking by age tender her defied again once his who Yoyo,daughter buddy, travel favourite his by as always, joined, was he trip this For has now worked on half a dozen of Trailblazer’s British Walking Guides. and homeland English his in hiking go to chance the relishes Lonely always but and Trailblazer decade, a than more both for lived he where China, for in specialises He Planet. guidebooks 30 than more authored ANIEL : M C danielmccrohan.com, C ROHAN H’ a ieypbihd rvl rtr h has who writer travel widely-published a He’s . This This Ridgeway The WayWay, Downs Downs South North Path Coast Pembrokeshire Dyke, Offa’s updated also he’s Daisy, dog, faithful ly) (most- by his accompanied Usually series. the in books three Way Dales Path, Wall Hadrian’s of author the also is and tury cen- a of quarter a almost for guidebooks writing been He’s it. followed edi- that the tions of many updated and book this H ENRY ihh edition eighth S TEDMAN . wrote the first edition of edition first the wrote South-West Coast Path Coast South-West a udtd by updated was Kilimanjaro n all and Job: 701091 Title: Coast 8 Title:701091 Coast Job: and , , DTP: FF Page: 1 Page: FF DTP:

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Coast to Coast Path First edition: 2004; this eighth edition: 2018 Publisher Trailblazer Publications The Old Manse, Tower Rd, Hindhead, Surrey, GU26 6SU, UK [email protected], www.trailblazer-guides.com British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978-1-905864-96-6 © Trailblazer 2004, 2006, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2014, 2016, 2018: Text and maps Series Editor: Anna Jacomb-Hood Editing & proof-reading: Jane Thomas & Bryn Thomas Layout: Daniel McCrohan Illustrations: © Nick Hill (p63) Photographs (flora): © Bryn Thomas All other photographs: © Daniel McCrohan (unless otherwise indicated) Cartography: Nick Hill Index: Jane Thomas & Daniel McCrohan All rights reserved. Other than brief extracts for the purposes of review no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of the publisher and copyright owner. The maps in this guide were prepared from out-of-Crown- copyright Ordnance Survey maps amended and updated by Trailblazer.

Acknowledgements From Daniel: Special thanks to my daughter Yoyo for joining me on the most outstanding part of the walk; the five-day trek across the Lakes. Her boundless energy and constant smiles were a source of inspiration for both me and the fellow hikers we met along the way. I’d also like to thank my mum, Carmen Campos, my brother Sam McCrohan, and Heidi Harris for holding the fort, helping with babysitting duties and generally being amazing. And of course I send all my remaining love, hugs and kisses to my dear wife Taotao and son Dudu for being so understanding and patient through such trying times. Back at Trailblazer HQ, thanks to Anna Jacomb-Hood, Nick Hill and Jane Thomas for all their editing and mapping prowess, and Henry Stedman, the author of the first edition of this book, for giving me such a fabulous base to build upon. Special thanks, though, to Bryn Thomas, not only for commissioning the project but for his support in a difficult year. I’d also like to thank all the hikers I met on the Coast to Coast path who made walking such a joy, even in the Yorkshire rain! Thanks to all the Trailblazer readers who emailed us with fantastic tips and recommendations – see p6 for their names.

A request The author and publisher have tried to ensure that this guide is as accurate and up to date as possible. Nevertheless, things change. If you notice any changes or omissions, please write to Trailblazer (address above) or email us at : [email protected]. A free copy of the next edition will be sent to persons making a significant contribution.

Warning: hill walking can be dangerous Please read the notes on when to go (pp14-16) and safety (pp80-3 & pp89-91). Every effort has been made by the author and publisher to ensure that the information contained herein is as accurate and up to date as possible. However, they are unable to accept responsibility for any inconvenience, loss or injury sustained by anyone as a result of the advice and information given in this guide. PHOTOS – Front cover The Nine Standards © Henry Stedman This page: Grisedale valley © Yoyo McCrohan. Previous page: Robin Hood’s Bay. Overleaf: Near Marrick. Updated information will be available on: : www.trailblazer-guides.com % Printed in China; print production by D’Print ( +65-6581 3832), Singapore

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INTRODUCTION P

About the Coast to Coast path U Wainwright’s Coast to Coast path 9 How difficult is the Coast to Coast path? 11 S How long do you need? 13 – When to go 14 S PART 1: PLANNING YOUR WALK ( S Practical information for the walker H GPS 17 – Accommodation 19 – Information for foreign visitors 22

Food and drink 25 – Money 27 – Internet access 28 – Other services 28 S t Walking companies 28 – Walking with a dog 31

32 S Budgeting H Itineraries U Which direction? 33 – Suggested itineraries 34

Village and town facilities 36 – Side trips 38 – Day walks 38 S S What to take ( Travelling light 40 – How to carry it 41 – Footwear 41 – Clothes 42 Toiletries 43 – First-aid kit 44 – General items 44 – Sleeping bag and S camping gear 44 – Money 45 – Maps 45 – Recommended reading 47 ( Sources of further information 48 S Getting to and from the Coast to Coast path ( National transport 50 – Getting to Britain 51 – Local transport 52

Public transport map 53 S PART 2: THE ENVIRONMENT & NATURE S ( D Conserving the Coast to Coast path A Government agencies and schemes 57 – Campaigning and conservation organisations 59 – Beyond conservation 60 S C Flora and fauna Mammals 61 – Birds 62 – Reptiles 65 – Flowers 65 – Trees 68 S ( PART 3: MINIMUM IMPACT WALKING S & OUTDOOR SAFETY ( Minimum impact walking A Environmental impact 77 – Access 79 M Outdoor safety Avoidance of hazards 80 – Weather forecasts 81 – Blisters 82 I

Hypothermia 82 – Hyperthermia 82 – Sunburn 83 Collapse of morale 83 O Contents

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PART 4: ROUTE GUIDE & MAPS

Using the guide 84

85 St Bees Stage 1: St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge 91 (Moor Row 96 – Cleator 96 – Ennerdale Bridge 100) Stage 2: Ennerdale Bridge to Borrowdale 102 (The Red Pike, High Stile & Hay Stacks route 109 – Seatoller 114 – Borrowdale 115) 2 118 (The ridge-walk alterna- 8 Stage 3: Borrowdale to Grasmere tive to Grasmere via Helm Crag 119 – Easedale 122 – Grasmere 123)

Stage 4: Grasmere to Patterdale 128 (The high-level options: Helvellyn & Striding Edge 130; St Sunday Crag 130 – Patterdale 134 Ullswater and Glenridding 136)

138 (Bampton 144 – Shap 146) Stage 5: Patterdale to Shap Stage 6: Shap to Kirkby Stephen 148 (Orton 150 – Newbiggin-on-Lune 155 – Kirkby Stephen 160) 2 d Stage 7: Kirkby Stephen to Keld 164 7 (The three routes over the moors 167 – Keld 174 – Thwaite 175)

Stage 8: Keld to Reeth 176 (Swaledale Valley alternative: Muker 184 – Reeth 188)

191 (Richmond 198) Stage 9: Reeth to Richmond Stage 10: Richmond to Ingleby Cross 204 (Colburn, Catterick Bridge & Brompton-on-Swale 205 Danby Wiske 212 – Oaktree Hill 214 – Ingleby Cross & Ingleby

Arncliffe 214 – Osmotherley 220)

Stage 11: Ingleby Cross to Blakey Ridge 221 (Urra 229 Chop Gate 229 – Great Broughton 229 – Blakey Ridge 234)

Stage 12: Blakey Ridge to Grosmont 234 (Glaisdale 236 – Egton Bridge 241 – Grosmont 242)

Stage 13: Grosmont to Robin Hood’s Bay 245 (Littlebeck 248 – High Hawsker 250 – Robin Hood’s Bay 254) APPENDICES

Map keys 258 – Taking a dog 259 – GPS Waypoints 261

INDEX 265 – Old Norse names 268

OVERVIEW MAPS & PROFILES 270 Contents

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How difficult is the Coast to Coast path? 11 ______Though the trail passes through three national parks, crosses the Pennine Way and at times joins with both the Lyke Wake Walk and the Cleveland Way, it’s not itself one of the 15 national trails in the UK, nor is it likely to become one anytime soon. What is certain is that despite this lack of official support, the

Coast to Coast has become one of the most popular of Britain’s long-distance paths, with estimates of up to 10,000 people attempting it annually.

How difficult is the Coast to Coast path? INTRODUCTION Undertaken in one go, the Coast to Coast path is a long, tough walk. Despite the presence of some fairly steep gradients, every mile is ‘walkable’ and no mountaineering or climbing skills are necessary. All you need is some suitable

clothing, a bit of money, a back- pack full of determination and a From seashore to seashore you’ll have ascended and of course half-decent pair of calf muscles. In the 190-odd miles from seashore descended the equivalent height to seashore you’ll have ascended of Mount Everest and of course descended the equivalent height of Mount Everest. That said, the most common complaint we’ve received about this book, par-

ticularly from North American readers, is that it doesn’t emphasise how tough it can be. So let us be clear: the Coast to Coast is a tough trek, particularly if undertaken in one go. Ramblers describe it as ‘challenging’ and they’re not wrong. When walkers begin to appreciate just how tough the walk can be, what they’re really discovering is the reality of covering a daily average of just over 14 miles or 23km, day after day, for two weeks, in fair weather or foul and while nursing a varying array of aches and pains. After all, how often do any of

us walk 14 miles in a day, let alone continuously for two weeks? The Lake District, in particular, contains many steep sections that will test l you to the limit; however, there are also plenty of genteel tearooms and places l o

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12 Introduction – How difficult is the Coast to Coast path? ______to stay in this section should you prefer to break your days into easier sections. The topography of the eastern section is less extreme, though the number of places with accommo- W dation drops too, and for a couple j of days you may find yourself b walking 15 miles or more in order y to reach a town or village on the a

INTRODUCTION trail that has somewhere to stay. C Regarding safety, there are few m Keep costs down by camping and doing your places on the regular trail where it w own cooking. (Photo © Yoyo McCrohan). would be possible to fall from a a great height, save perhaps for the cliff top walks that book-end the hike. On a some of the high-level Lakeland alternatives (see p119 and p130), however, R there is a chance of being blown off a ridge. In 2009 a walker suffered this fate d and broke his ankle, as did the rescuer who came in a helicopter, though sus- a taining such a serious injury by being blown over is highly unusual. The great- d est danger to trekkers is, perhaps, the likelihood of losing the way, particularly b in the Lake District with its greater chance of poor visibility, bad weather and a distinct lack of signposting. A compass and knowing how to use it is very use- t ful, as is appropriate clothing for t inclement weather and most r importantly of all, a pair of boots r which you ease on each morning m with a smile not a grimace. t Not pushing yourself too hard T is important, too, as this leads to a fatigue with all its inherent dan- w gers, not least poor decision mak- t ing. In case all this deters you y from the walk bear in mind that in s 2009 a 71-year-old finished the s walk for the fifth time, and that the e seven-year-old daughter of the i most recent updater of this book u walked the whole of the Lake District section ... in a pair of pink a Crocs! At the same time young i men with all the right kit and a l previous crossing under their belt j were finished after storming w across to Shap in three days. a

(Left) Taking a rest above Stonethwaite Beck (see p118).

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How long do you need? 13 ______u -

n How long do you need? e - We’ve heard about an athlete who completed the entire Coast to Coast path in e just 37 hours and a walker who managed it in eight days. We also know some- f body who did it in ten and another guy who did four four-day stages over four r years. Continuously or over sever- For most people, the Coast to e al visits, for most people, the Coast trail takes a minimum of Coast to Coast trail takes a mini- INTRODUCTION 14 walking days w mum of 14 walking days; in other t words an average distance of just over 14 miles (23km) a day. Indeed, even with a a fortnight in which to complete the trail, many people still find it tough going, n and it doesn’t really allow you time to look around places such as Grasmere or r, Richmond which can deserve a See pp34-5 for some e day in themselves. So, if you can suggested itineraries covering - afford to build a couple of rest different walking speeds - days into your itinerary or even y break it up into shorter stages over several weeks, you’ll be very glad you did. a Of course, if you’re fit there’s no reason why you can’t go a little faster if - that’s what you want to do, though you’ll end up having a different sort of trek r to most of the other people on the t route. For where theirs is a fairly s relaxing holiday, yours will be g more of a sport as you try to reach the finishing line on schedule. d There’s nothing wrong with this o approach, though you obviously - won’t see as much as those who - take their time. However, what u you mustn’t do is try to push your- n self beyond your body’s ability; e such punishing challenges often e end prematurely in exhaustion, e injury or, at the absolute least, an k unpleasant time. e When deciding how long to k allow for their trek, those intend- g ing to camp and carry their own a luggage shouldn’t underestimate t just how much a heavy pack can g wear you down. On pp34-5 there are some suggested itineraries

(Right) YHA Black Sail, England’s most remote hostel (see p108).

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When to go 15 ______o By the end of the month the weath- °C JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC °F 20° 68° k er will begin to get a little wilder 15° 59° . and the nights will start to draw in. 10° 50° For most mortals the walking sea- 5° 41°

son is almost at an end. 0° 32° Winter Average max/min temperatures – Richmond A few people trek the Coast to Coast in winter, putting up with the cold, damp conditions and short days for the chance to experience the trail without other tourists and maybe even under snow. Much of the accommodation will be closed too but whilst it may also be a little - INTRODUCTION more dangerous to walk at this time, particularly on the high-level routes through e the Lakes, if you find yourself walking on one of those clear, crisp, wintry days s it will all seem absolutely worth it. mm JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC inch l 120 4.68 - RAINFALL 100 3.90 e 80 2.05

s At some point on your walk, it will 60 1.54

n rain; if it doesn’t, it’s fair to say that 40 1.03

n you haven’t really lived the full 20 0.51

Coast to Coast experience properly. 0 0 At nearly 4.7 metres (185 inches), Average rainfall – Richmond the hills over Borrowdale on Stage d 2 record the highest rainfall in England; a staggering eight times more than the s south-east of England, for example! In December 2015 there was serious flood- g ing in the Lake District. The question, therefore, is not whether you will be a rained on, but how often and how hard. But as long as you dress accordingly and e take note of the safety advice given on pp80-3, this shouldn’t be a problem. e Do, however, think twice about tackling some of the high-level alternatives e if the weather is bad and visibility poor, and don’t do so on your own.

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC 4am DAYLIGHT HOURS ★ ★ ★ SUNRISE ★ e 6am If walking in autumn, winter or ★ e 8am early spring, you must take f 10am account of how far you can walk in , 12pm the available light. It won’t be pos- - 2pm sible to cover as many miles as you o 4pm would in summer. Remember 6pm e ★ ★ though, that you’ll get a further 30- ★ ★ - 8pm 45 minutes of usable light before SUNSET ★ ★ ★ 10pm sunrise and after sunset depending Hours of daylight – Richmond on the weather. In June, because d the path is in the far north of y England, those coming from the south may be surprised that there’s enough l light for walking until at least 10pm. Conversely, in early spring, late autumn r. and winter you’ll be equally amazed how quickly the nights draw in.

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Budgeting 33 ______lunches about £5.50) to consider. This means that, overall, it could cost £30-40 per day, or £45-50 to live in a little more comfort, enjoy the odd beer and go out for the occasional meal. There are a few basic camping barns and bunkhouses along the Coast to Coast. They vary in quality and price, but expect to pay around £10 for a bed.

B&BS, GUESTHOUSES AND HOTELS B&B prices start at around £35 per person per night (if sharing a double room) but can be at least twice this. Add on the cost of food for lunch and dinner and you should reckon on about £65 minimum per day. Staying in a guesthouse or hotel will cost more. Remember that there is often a supplement of £10-20 for single occupancy of a double or twin room and you may even have to pay the full price of the room.

Itineraries

Most people tackle the Coast to Coast Path from west to east, mainly because this allows them to walk ‘with the weather at their back’ (most of the time the winds blow off the Atlantic from the south-west). It’s also common for people to attempt the walk in one go, though there’s much to be said for breaking it up and not crawling into Robin Hood’s Bay in an Ibuprofen-induced daze. Part 4 of this book has been written from west to east, but there is of course nothing to stop you from tackling it in the opposite direction (see below). To help plan your walk look at the planning maps (at the back of the book) and

the table of village/town facilities (on pp36-7), which gives a run-down on the PLANNING YOUR WALK essential information you’ll need regarding accommodation possibilities and services at the time of writing. You could follow one of the suggested itineraries (see boxes pp34-5) which are based on preferred type of accommodation and walking speeds. There’s also a list of recommended linear day walks on pp38-9 which cover the best of the Coast to Coast path, all of which are well served by public transport or the Packhorse/Sherpa van. The services table is on pp52-5 and public transport map on p53. Once you have an idea of your approach turn to Part 4 for detailed information on accommodation, places to eat and other services in each village and town on the route. Also in Part 4 you will find summaries of the route to accom- pany the detailed trail maps.

WHICH DIRECTION? There are a number of advantages in tackling the path in a west to east direction, not least the fact that the prevailing winds will, more often than not, be behind you. If you are walking alone but wouldn’t mind some company now and again you’ll find that most of the other Coast to Coast walkers are heading Coast-8 01-03_Prelims Template 12/03/2018 19:03 Page 18

34 Itineraries ______in your direction, too. However, there is also something to be said for leaving the Lake District – many people’s favourite part of the British Isles, let alone the path – until the end of the walk.

SUGGESTED ITINERARIES The itineraries in the boxes here are based on different accommodation types – camping, hostels/bunkhouses/camping barns, and B&Bs – with each one divided into three alternatives depending on your walking speed (relaxed, medium and fast). They are only suggestions so feel free to adapt them. Don’t forget to add your travelling time before and after the walk.

STAYING IN HOSTELS/CAMPING BARNS/BUNKHOUSES Relaxed pace Medium pace Fast pace Place Approx Place Approx Place Approx Distance Distance Distance Night miles/km miles/km miles/km

0 St Bees St Bees St Bees 1 Sandwith 3/5 Sandwith 3/5 Ennerdale 20/32 2 Ennerdale Br 12/19.5 Ennerdale 15.5/25 Grasmere 20.5/33 3 Black Sail YH 8.5/13.5 Borrowdale§ 10.5/17 Shap 23.5/38 4 Borrowdale§ 5.5/9 Grasmere 10/16 K. Stephen 20.5/33 5 Grasmere 10/16 Patterdale 10/16 Reeth [Dales] 29/47 6 Patterdale 10/16 Shap 15.5/25 Brompton-o-S 15.5/25 7 Shap 15.5/25 K. Stephen 20.5/33 Osmotherley 20.5/33 8 Bents Farm 15.5/25 Keld 13/21 Blakey Ridge* 20.5/33 9 K. Stephen 5.5/9 Reeth [Grinton] 12.5/20 Grosmont* 13.5/22 10 Keld 13/21 Brompton-o-S 15.5/25 R. Hood’s Bay 15.5/25 11 Reeth [Dales] 12.5/20 Oaktree Hill 10.5/17

PLANNING12 YOURBrompton-o-S WALK 15.5/25 Osmotherley 10/16 13 Oaktree Hill 10.5/17 Clay Bank Top†*11/18 14 Osmotherley 10/16 Glaisdale* 19/30.5 15 Lord Stones 8/13 R. Hood’s Bay 19/30.5 16 Blakey Ridge* 12.5/20 17 Glaisdale* 10/16 * No camping barns, bunkhouses or hostels but 18 Littlebeck* 7/11.5 alternative accommodation is available 19 R. Hood’s Bay 12/19.5 § Borrowdale = Longthwaite, Rosthwaite & Stonethwaite † Clay Bank Top = Urra, Chop Gate & Gt Broughton Note: some of the above are seasonal so check in advance

❏ Next time I do the C2C... I will discipline myself to take more time on the trail and to savour the experience of the walking. The metronomic, almost trance-like state that can occur when all you need to do is put one foot in front of the other is rarely achieved when you’re focussing on getting to the end. Too often I arrived at my destination by 3pm or even 2pm and although this means more time relaxing in the pub it also means I could have taken more time on the hills, perhaps sitting quietly enjoying a view or taking time to divert from the path to explore the landscape. Stuart Greig Coast-8 01-03_Prelims Template 12/03/2018 19:03 Page 22

38 Itineraries ______SIDE TRIPS The Coast to Coast path is long enough and few walkers will be tempted to make side trips. However, Wainwright’s series of guides to Lakeland fells describes other walks around the Lake District in further detail and it may be worth making time for an ascent of some of the hills in the area as they give an entirely different perspective of the Lakeland landscape. Old favourites include Great Gable, Striding Edge on Helvellyn, High Street and England’s highest mountain, Scafell Pike (3209ft/978m).

❏ DAY WALKS The best day loops and weekend walks on the Coast to Coast The following suggested trails are for those who don’t want to tackle the entire path in one go or just want to get a flavour of the challenge before committing themselves. In our opinion they include the best parts of the Coast to Coast path, and are all described in more detail in Part 4. Day walks bring you back to your starting point, either along other routes not mapped in this book or in some cases using public transport. There is good public transport (see pp52-6) to the start and end points on the suggested weekend walk but no direct service between Reeth and Kirkby Stephen. However, if there are two of you, you can shuttle with two cars, or a car and bike as many walkers do. St Bees to Sandwith 5 miles/8km (pp91-5) Get a flavour of the walk by completing the first 2.5 per cent of it! Set out from St Bees and strike off along the red rock sea cliffs; you can be back in St Bees that night, either by walking from Sandwith or taking the bus. Around Ennerdale Water 11 miles/18km (pp102-11) The first truly gorgeous stretch of the Coast to Coast passes along the south shore of Ennerdale Water to the River Liza. You can carry on to Black Sail along an easy

PLANNINGtrack, YOUR WALKthen take a walk back along the northern access track. Borrowdale to Grasmere and back 15 miles/24km (pp115-23) Grasmere for lunch? In good weather it’s a great training walk and you’ll be able to pin down the Greenup Edge crossing to boot. Warm yourself up on the long climb to the Edge and we recommend you take the regular valley route down to Grasmere. Rest up, revive yourself in the fleece-wearing capital of the UK, and then take the haul back with the sun to Borrowdale. We don’t recommend the high route via Helm Crag unless you’re really on form. Grasmere’s Helm Crag Loop 8 miles/13km (pp118-23) A very popular day trip for the more active visitor to Grasmere. It’s up to you which direction you take; probably reversing the Coast to Coast by tackling the acute climb up to Helm Crag is best. At the junction at the top of Easedale (Wpt 30, Map 17) you come down the valley. A great day out but tougher than you think. Grasmere to Patterdale and back 16½ miles/26.5km (pp128-34) A pretty hefty proposition and another great training walk through the heart of the Lakes. The walk takes you up to Helvellyn summit and along Striding Edge, lunch at the pub and then back either up the valley or along St Sunday Crag (same distance but more climbing on the latter) and back down the other side of Tongue Gill. With very little overlapping, it’s easily one of the best days out in the Lakes. Coast-8 01-03_Prelims Template 12/03/2018 19:03 Page 34

50 Getting to and from the Coast to Coast path ______

Getting to and from the Coast to Coast path Both St Bees and Robin Hood’s Bay are quite difficult to reach on public transport. For this reason, many people who are using the baggage carrier companies (see p28) opt to start and finish at their bases (Kirkby Stephen, Richmond or Kirkby Malham) where they have car parking facilities and offer their own transport links to St Bees and Robin Hood’s Bay If you want to make your own way to St Bees, it’s best to take a train to Carlisle or Barrow-in-Furness, and then take the train to St Bees. Alternatively take a bus from Carlisle to Whitehaven (Stagecoach No 300, 301 & No 600; see box p54) and then walk or train the 4½ miles south from Whitehaven. For Robin Hood’s Bay, Arriva’s No X93 Middlesbrough to Scarborough bus service operates daily (see p55); both these towns are well connected by rail.

NATIONAL TRANSPORT All train timetable and fare information can be found at National Rail ☎ Enquiries ( 03457 484950, 24hrs; : nationalrail.co.uk). Alternatively, and to book tickets, you can look on the websites of the train companies concerned: Virgin Trains (: virgintrains.co.uk), Virgin East Coast (: virgintrainseast- coast.com), Northern Rail (: northernrail.co.uk) and Trans-Pennine Express (: tpexpress.co.uk). Timetables and tickets are also available on : thetrain line.com and : www.qjump.co.uk. You are advised to book in advance – it may well save you a small fortune. If your journey involves changes, it’s worth

PLANNINGchecking YOUR WALK which train company operates each leg of the journey – you may find you can save money by buying separate tickets for each train company rather than one through ticket for your whole journey. Coach travel is generally cheaper (though with the excellent advance-pur- chase train fares that is not always true) but takes longer. The principal coach ☎ (long-distance bus) operator in Britain is National Express ( 08717 81 81 81, 24 hrs, : nationalexpress.com). Megabus (: uk.megabus.com) has a more limited service though may be cheaper.

Getting● to St Bees Train Carlisle and Barrow-in-Furness are the main access points for St Bees. Virgin’s London Euston to Glasgow service calls at Carlisle; trains operate 1 approximately hourly during the day and the journey takes 3 /4-4 hours. Virgin’s Birmingham New St to Edinburgh/Glasgow service stops in Carlisle hourly. Trans-Pennine Express operates a service from Manchester Airport/ Manchester Piccadilly to Barrow-in-Furness (Mon-Sat 4/day, Sun 1/day). They also operate a service from Manchester Airport/Manchester Piccadilly to Glasgow/Edinburgh via Carlisle (Mon-Sat 15/day, Sun 9/day). Northern Rail (above) operates a service from Carlisle to Barrow-in- Coast-8 01-03_Prelims Template 12/03/2018 19:03 Page 37

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THE ENVIRONMENT & 2 NATURE

Conserving the Coast to Coast path

With a population of over 64 million Britain is an overcrowded island, and England is the most densely populated part of it. As such, the English countryside has suffered a great deal of pressure from both over-population and the activities of an ever more industrialised world. Thankfully, there is some enlightened legislation to protect the surviving pockets of forest and heathland. Apart from these, it is interesting to note just how much man has altered the land that he lives on. Whilst the aesthetic costs of such intrusions are open to debate, what is certain is the loss of biodiversity that has resulted. The last wild boar was shot near the Coast to Coast trail a few centuries ago; add to that the extinction of bear, wolf and beaver (now being reintroduced in selected pockets in Scotland and Dorset) as well as, far more recently, a number of other species lost or severely depleted over the decades and you get an idea of just how much of an influence man has over the land, and how that influence is all too often used negatively. There is good news, however. In these enlightened times when environmental issues are quite rightly given more precedence, many endangered species, such as the otter, have increased in number thanks to the active work of voluntary conservation bodies. There are other reasons to be optimistic. The environment is no longer the least important issue in party politics and this reflects the opinions of everyday people who are concerned about issues such as conservation on both a global and local scale.

GOVERNMENT AGENCIES AND SCHEMES Natural England Natural England is responsible for enhancing biodiversity, landscape and wildlife in rural, urban, coastal and marine areas; promoting access, recreation and public well-being; and contributing to the way natural resources are managed. One of its roles is to identify, estab- lish and manage: national trails, national parks, areas of outstanding natural beauty (AONBs), national nature reserves (NNRs), sites of Coast-8 pp65-70-Q9_Flowers 001-004_25219 12/3/18 12:48 pm Page 68

68 Flora and fauna ______fires, an orange dye and material for bedding, thatching, basketwork and brooms. It is still sometimes used in place of hops to flavour beer, and the flower heads can be brewed to make good tea. It is also incredibly hardy and thrives on the denuded hills, preventing other species from flourishing. Indeed, at times, highland cat- tle are brought to certain areas of the moors to graze on the heather, allowing other species a chance to grow. Bird’s-foot trefoil Not a flower but worthy of mention is the less R Lotus corniculatus attractive species, bracken (Pteridium aquilinum), a vigorous non-native fern that has invaded many heathland areas to the detriment of native species. Grassland There is much overlap between the hedge/woodland- edge habitat and that of pastures and meadows. You will come across common bird’s-foot trefoil (Lotus corniculatus), Germander speedwell (Veronica chamaedrys), tufted and bush vetch (Vicia cracca and V. sepium) and meadow vetchling (Lathyrus pratensis) in both. Germander Speedwell Veronica chamaedrys Often the only species you will see in heavily grazed pastures are the most resilient. Of the thistles, the three most common species are creeping thistle, spear thistle and marsh thistle (Cirsium arvense, C. vulgare and C. palustre). Among them you may find common ragwort (Senecio jacobaea), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), sheep’s and common sorrel (Rumex acetosella and R. acetosa), and white and red clover (Trifolium repens and T. pratense). Other widespread grassland species include harebell (Campanula rotundifolia), delicate yellow tor- Tormentil Potentilla erecta mentil (Potentilla erecta) which will often spread up C onto the lower slopes of mountains along with devil’s- bit scabious (Succisa pratensis). Also keep an eye out for orchids such as the fragrant orchid (Gymnadenia conopsea) and early purple orchid (Orchis mascula).

TREES It seems incredible that, before man and his axe got to work, most of the bleak, empty moors and windswept Lakeland fells were actually covered by trees. Overgrazing of land by sheep and, to a lesser extent, deer, which eat the young shoots of trees, has ensured

THE ENVIRONMENT AND NATURE that the ancient forests have never returned. These days, Early Purple Orchid the biggest areas of tree cover are the ghastly pine plan- Orchis mascula tations of Ennerdale and other places in the Lakes. Yet

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MINIMUM IMPACT & 3 OUTDOOR SAFETY

Minimum impact walking

ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT A walking holiday in itself is an environmentally friendly approach to tourism, but here are some ideas on how to further minimise your impact on the environment while walking the Coast to Coast. Use public transport whenever possible Public transport along the trail is not bad, with most places served by at least one bus or train a day. Public transport is always preferable to using private cars; it benefits visitors, locals and the environment. Never leave litter ‘Pack it in, pack it out’. Leaving litter is antisocial so carry a degrad- able plastic bag for all your rubbish, organic or otherwise and even other people’s too, and pop it in a bin in the next village. Better still, reduce what you take with you by getting rid of packaging in advance. ● Is it OK if it’s biodegradable? Not really. Apple cores, banana skins, orange peel and the like are unsightly, encourage flies, ants and wasps, and ruin a picnic spot for others; they can also take months to decompose. Either bury them or take them away with you. Buy local Buying local produce not only reduces the amount of pollution and congestion that food transportation creates, so-called ‘food miles’, it also ensures that you are supporting local farmers and producers. Erosion ● Stay on the main trail The effect of your footsteps may seem minuscule but when multiplied by several thousand walkers each year they become rather more significant. Avoid taking shortcuts, widening the trail or taking more than one path, especially across hay meadows and ploughed fields. This is particularly true on the boggy Pennine stage, which is now divided into three trails to be used for ______(Opposite) Top: Steam train on the North York Moors Railway, Grosmont (see p245). Centre left: Falling Foss waterfall (p249). Centre right: Grosmont’s community-run store opened 150 years ago. Bottom left: Almost there: the final stretch before Robin Hood’s Bay (p253). Bottom right: The Hermitage (p248). Coast-8 04a_Layout 1 12/03/2018 19:07 Page 2

4 ROUTE GUIDE & MAPS

Using this guide

The route is described from west to east and divided into 13 stages. Though each of these roughly corresponds to a day’s walk between centres of accommodation, it’s not necessarily the best way to struc- ture your trek. There are enough places to stay – barring a couple of stretches – for you to pretty much divide the walk up however you want. This is even more true if you’re prepared to camp, in which case you can pitch your tent virtually anywhere, particularly in the Lake District stages, as long as you follow the guidelines on p78. On pp34-5 are tables to help you plan an itinerary. To provide further help, practical information is presented on the trail maps, including waypoints (WPT) and walking times, places to stay, camp and eat, as well as shops from which to buy provisions. Further service details are given in the text under the entry for each settlement. See box pp89-91 for navigation trouble spots. For map profiles and cumulative distance chart see the colour pages at the end of the book.

TRAIL MAPS [for map key see inside back cover] Scale and walking times 1 The trail maps are to a scale of 1:20,000 (1cm = 200m; 3 /8 inches = one mile). Each full size map covers about two miles but that’s a very rough estimate owing to variety of terrain. Walking times are given along the side of each map; the arrow shows the direction to which the time refers. Black triangles indicate the points between which the times have been taken. These times are merely a tool to help you plan and are not there to judge your walking ability. After a couple of days you’ll know how fast you walk compared with the time bars and can plan your days more accurate- ly as a result. See note on walking times in the box opposite. Up or down? The trail is shown as a dashed line. An arrow across the trail indicates the slope; two arrows show that it is steep. Note that the arrow points towards the higher part of the trail. If, for example, you are walking from A (at 80m) to B (at 200m) and the trail between the two is short and steep it would be shown thus: A— — — >> — — – B. Reversed arrow heads indicate a downward gradient. Note that the arrow points uphill, the opposite of what OS maps use on steep roads. Coast-8 04a_Layout112/03/201819:07Page5 There’sa also door shop and a pharmacy,a and 10-minute shop a door but p88) are the serried cabins of of Park cabins serried Caravan the are p88) (see hotel adjacent the by owned and tion sta- lifeboat RNLI the behind front the On stay to Where you Alternatively Grasmere. reach you until wait to have town. into walk utes’ min- ten St, King on Boots a and Millets a both as Tescohuge well a as alongside you deliver will Whitehaven to north ride train ( website town’s the cards. foreign takes Grasmere at one the that note though Grasmere; e) te at n o te ri before trail the on one last (£1.75 the machine cash fee), a has and facilities 9am-12.30pm) Sat 5.30pm, a houses also ______CP Caravan Caravan Caravan Seacote Seacote Seacote Park Park Park h s i r I Irish Seacote Hotel Two things the town lacks are an out- an are lacks town the things Two hr’ sm tuit nomto on information tourist some There’s a e S Sea ToTo Hartley’s Tea Hartley’s Tea Room Room Guesthouse St Bees 0 Tomlin public phone. public o-r 9am- (Mon-Fri office post 10 –15 (Map 1, p93; p93; 1, (Map

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ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS lulusbistro.co.uk; 3D/1Qd; all en suite; en all 3D/1Qd; lulusbistro.co.uk; – House Station old Guesthouse Lulu’s the inside set ally n til ros Bd n bekat costs breakfast and Bed rooms. triple and etr snsoe an ih aid and varied with barn sandstone century chargingfrom £40pp (sgl occ from £70). WI parking (£7). campers for available is accept most credit cards They (but not Amex). Breakfast occ). sgl/sgl (£45/60 £40pp Ⓛ ______Bees St 88 for B&B. for £60) occ sgl £50, (sgl £30pp from charges D2; l e suite; en all 7D/2T; : pub, ry flat. two-room a is quad The twin. £8.50 a as used be can doubles the cost of One extra). breakfasts (cooked breakfast continental a with £55) occ (sgl £32.50pp an us House Guest Barn rooms. the of some from views great (sgl are There £35). occ £32.50-37.50pp for B&B has which index.htm; 75 rooms, all en suite; short walk from Mile Zero (see Map 1, p93) facilities; share others suite, en one T/1Tr; or 1D/2D (sgl £50, sgl occ £50). occ sgl £50, (sgl £35pp costs B&B days. these tired little a looking are some though rooms, charming ( suite; : l e suite; en all 1S/3D/2T/2Tr; [email protected]; 01946 822300, 822300, 01946 £2 per night. per £2 is Off-streetparking £45). occ (sgl 32.50pp £30- charging place little friendly a is and 822284, 822284, of the path, the of D2 e suite; en 2D/2T facilities, shared with 2S/1T stbees.co.uk; % ; - manorinnstbees.co.uk;5D/3T/1Qd; enall FI uesoe.teshtalcm 3S/ [email protected];  Right beside the station – in fact, actu- fact, in – station the beside Right A third pub with rooms is ao Hue Inn House Manor Further along Main St, the 17th-centu- the St, Main along Further p t h tp f an St, Main of top the at Up Down towards the coast, near the start the near coast, the towards Down Nearby, is the large the is Nearby, ; 01946 822345, 822345, 01946  Ⓛ , hc hs mx f obe twin double, of mix a has which ), ; Hotel Queen’s ; open all year) offers B&B from B&B offers year) all open ; (£3 per night) is also available. also is night) per (£3 WI : WI - TomlinHouse Guest - FI FI WI [email protected]; ; ; Ⓛ - Ⓛ FI WI ) is another pub with B&B, ; ; : - Ⓛ FI  (% (% ; i a etrd 17th- restored a is )  seacote.com/Hotel/ ) is on Beach Rd, a Rd, Beach on is ) Ⓛ (% 14 822600, 01946 14 822718, 01946 ( ; Seacote Hotel Seacote % , t Fnl St, Finkle 1 at ), : WI 14 822287, 01946 14 820587, 01946 - Albert Hotel FI alberthotel- Long-term ; Fairladies  (% Ⓛ ; ; 01946 WI   - (% FI : : ), ; ; They also sell provisions, books and maps. and books provisions, sell also They Zero. Mile before walk short a just shore, 8am-8pm, café daily 8am-5pm) on the fore- ri pr or wee o cn hne for change can you where hour) per train Barrow-in- to one roughly pp50-6) also also 20mins; south (see 1hr (also Furness and hour) per train one roughly 20mins; (1hr Carlisle to north Trains Transport for.pay you from what get you but £7), (mains cheap is food The 8.30pm). (noon- grub pub serving bar there’sa stay) p93; 1, (Map at lent ice-cream made on the premises, call in the (try whiskies. malt and Bitter) Jennings ales real its for known bar a and on only lunch weekends in winter) has a good-value menu 6-8.30pm; & noon-2pm Hotel week- at ends. especially here, meals evening pint swift for advance in book a to advisable It’s here? resist you can how so 1am) the Coast have to Coast also They lunch. Sunday a and £5-7) comprehensive lunches light a £10-15, (mains with menu pub reliable a is 5.30-9pm) & noon-2pm daily served food below). Tea& (see Shop Room Hartley’sin also and here provisions Beach shop village the in pies the want, you snack a it’sjust If drink and eat to Where room). per £95 triples £80; occ (sgl £40pp Taxis(: 823000), based in Egremont, or White Line seven-minute Carlisle. a Bees. St from ride train just and then is Whitehaven Workington Egremont, Lancaster. rm etntos uh s Frizington, as such destinations by Whitehaven from to either go Reays) (run or Stagecoach services numerous but Bah hp Ta Room Tea & Shop Beach Hartley’s At nearby o sa iw, ra ta ad excel- and teas cream views, sea For road, the of side other the On Inn House Manor For a For no are There (see daily served food stay; to Where MnSt ny fo S Be go Bees St from only) (Mon-Sat 01946 66111),01946 Whitehaven. in , try Sterling Cabs (: Cabs Sterling try taxi, % r eclet Yu a buy can You excellent. are Seacote Hotel a (al no t around to noon (daily bar 01946 820175; shop daily shop 820175; 01946 bus services to St Bees, St to services (see Where to stay; to (see Where (see Where to Queen’s 01946 Coast-8 04a_Layout112/03/201819:07Page11 ______

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FLESWICK BAY 20 MINS COASTGUARD STATION 50 MINS TO SANDWITH (MAP 3) 1 3 Coast-8 04a_Layout 1 12/03/2018 19:07 Page 22

104 Stage 2 – Ennerdale Bridge to Borrowdale ______shins. Unless you like splashing about in such weather the access track along the north shore may be a better option. If the weather is fine, however, the southern pathway is preferable as it hugs the lakeside more closely and is for walkers only. Beyond the lake’s end, in clear conditions even the high route via Red Pike can get busy, but be warned it’s a fair old climb and you can still enjoy great views down to Buttermere from the top of Loft Beck or Grey Knotts on the standard route. If the weather is closing in, it would be foolhardy to attempt the fell-top alternative. It’s a long walk from Ennerdale Bridge, your first real stage in the Lakes, although you can rearrange this day at any of the four hostels spaced out along the route. The route The stage’s first half involves a walk along the southern side of the very pleas- ant Ennerdale Water and though it’s not quite the dreamy lakeside stroll you may have imagined, navigation couldn’t be simpler. At one point the path rises over the outcrop of Robin Hood’s Chair (Map 8; take the easier right route at the top of the crag) to enter mossy light woodland as you near the eastern extremity of the lake. % Family-friendly Low Gillerthwaite Field Centre (Map 10; 01946 861229, : lgfc.org.uk;  on lead; WI-FI) has camping for £10 per tent plus £2pp, as well as comfortable bunkhouse accommodation (40 beds: 2x4, 1x8, 1x10, 1x14-bed rooms), from £15.50pp; pillows and blankets are provided, but no bed sheets, so a sleeping bag or sleeping sheet is needed. There is a kitchen, a dining room, a drying room and two lounges with open wood fires as well as good shower and toilet facilities; campers have access to shower/washing facilities and a basic cooking area. Note that if a school group is in residence (which is not unusual) you may not be allowed to stay so call ahead. It’s open year- round, but is self-catering only (although you can sometimes buy farm eggs,

ROUTEand GUIDE locally-brewed AND MAPS beer), and the nearest shop is back at Ennerdale Bridge so come prepared. Mobile phone signals are notoriously poor here, but there is a public telephone by the main entrance. % % Up the track a bit YHA Ennerdale (Map 10; 0800 0191 700 or 0345 371 9116, : yha.org.uk/hostel/ennerdale; 24 beds, 3x4-, 2x6-bed rooms; beds from £18pp, private rooms from £35; Ⓛ; open Mar-Oct only), at High Gillerthwaite, is a small hostel with good facilities and a lovely location. (cont’d on p108)

2000ft 600m

500m 1500ft Honister Hause YH 400m Black Sail 1000ft YH 300m Ennerdale Ennerdale 200m 500ft Bridge YH

Rosthwaite 0 0 12345678910 11 12 13 14 Distance (miles) Coast-8 04a_Layout 1 12/03/2018 19:08 Page 36

118 Borrowdale ______restaurant on the whole trail – and those Herdwick lamb. Mains cost £13.25-17.95. who think it’s actually a little overpriced. The rooms are undoubtedly worthy of Their menu (Feb-Nov Tue-Sun noon- praise: B&B costs from £40pp out of sea- 2.30pm & 6-8.30pm, 2.30-4pm soups and son, but rises to £57-70pp in mid-summer sandwiches only; bar Tue-Sun noon- (sgl occ full room rate). They don’t usually 10.30pm) includes such locally sourced accept advance bookings for single-night dishes as slow-roasted Rosthwaite stays on Fridays or Saturdays.

STAGE 3: BORROWDALE TO GRASMERE MAPS 14-18 Introduction In good weather this 9-mile (14.5km, 4-5½hr high route) stage is a Lakeland classic; a straightforward climb up past Lining Crag to Greenup Edge, followed by the high-level ridge walk we recommend (see opposite) or a less adventur- ous and slightly shorter plod down the valley to the edge of Grasmere. Wainwright combines this stage with the next one to Patterdale, adding up to at least a 17-mile (27.5km) hike, and a few walkers do just that. Sticking to the valley routes as Wainwright did, it’s not too demanding. If doing so, we recommend you take at least one of the high-level options on either stage; this is the Lake District after all. Taking on the high routes in one long day – not least via Helvellyn and Striding Edge which will add two miles and up to two hours – may leave you a little drained for the 15½-miler from Patterdale to Shap which follows and along which there are no easy gradients. The route The stage begins with a level amble through the fields alongside Stonethwaite Beck (Maps 14 and 15), with Eagle Crag a looming presence across the water. It looks massive but by the time you get to Greenup Edge you’ll be looking down on Eagle Crag. At Stonethwaite you join Greenup Gill (Map 15), which after heavy rain becomes one long torrent of white water and waterfalls, with ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS views back down to Borrowdale growing more impressive with every upward step. The path’s gradient picks up a notch past Eagle Crag, drops into a basin of drumlins (mounds created by glacial action) and a stepped climb up onto the top of Lining Crag (Map 16) from where, weather permitting, views reach over towards Scafell Pike, England’s highest summit at 3210ft (978m). Look to the south and you’ll also make out the beginning of the path to the

Greenup 2000ft 600m Edge 500m 1500ft 400m

1000ft 300m

200m 500ft Borrowdale 100m Grasmere 0 0 123456789 Distance (miles) Coast-8 04b_Layout 1 12/03/2018 19:15 Page 89

APPENDIX B – GPS WAYPOINTS

Each GPS waypoint below was taken on the route at the reference number marked on the map as below. This list can also be downloaded from : trailblazer-guides.com. MAP WAY- NO POINT OS GRID REF DESCRIPTION Stage 1 St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge (14 miles) 1 001 NX 96042 11791 Mile Zero; Coast to Coast sign on St Bees beach 3 002 NX 97898 14269 Gate on right, then downhill to railway tunnel 3 003 NX 98500 14189 Plank bridge over stream 4 004 NX 98932 14175 By woods continue N then E to disused railway 4 005 NX 99608 14346 Cross A595 and pass C2C statue; E into Moor Row 4 006 NY 00768 13923 Turn E into field 5 007 NY 01558 13494 Cleator Stores, Main St; cross road into Kiln Brow 5 008 NY 02295 13356 Black How Farm. Back road N to Ennerdale or track E to Dent Hill 5 009 NY 03055 13338 Stile in fence; follow wall ESE towards summit 5 010 NY 03743 13052 Cairn along walls; not the summit 5 011 NY 04148 12893 Dent Hill summit (353m), small cairn 5 012 NY 04352 12765 Gate in fence, continue SE 6 013 NY 04535 12668 Junction, follow track going ENE to tall stile 6 014 NY 05532 12979 Having crossed Kirk Beck, head NE along stream 6 015 NY 05744 13873 Opposite gorse hillside head NE 7 016 NY 06942 15811 Ennerdale Bridge over river Stage 2 Ennerdale Bridge to Borrowdale (Rosthwaite) low route (15 miles) 9 017 NY 12493 13874 Bridge at eastern end of Ennerdale Water 10 018 NY 14564 14122 Turn off north for high-level route via Red Pike 10 019 NY 17713 13216 A path leads E up to Scarth Gap Pass (Hay Stacks) 11 020 NY 19118 12508 Path comes down from Scarth Gap 12 021 NY 20278 12033 Cross Loft Beck by two cairns and ascend 12 022 NY 20548 12383 Top of Loft Beck at boggy saddle; turn E for gate in fence 12 023 NY 20802 12417 Gate in fence 12 024 NY 21135 12465 Cairns; now head NE 13 025 NY 21366 12632 Join bigger track coming from Brandreth 13 026 NY 21593 13455 Drum House 14 027 NY 25825 14939 At bridge turn off by bus stop in Rosthwaite Stage 3 Borrowdale to Grasmere (9 miles) 16 028 NY 28313 11202 Top of Lining Crag; bogs & cairns to Greenup Edge 16 029 NY 28602 10526 Greenup Edge; twin cairns just after fence post 17 030 NY 29558 10287 Top of Easedale; two routes separate 17 031 NY 30160 10411 Top of Calf Crag (538m) 18 032 NY 32744 09202 Near Helm Crag summit 18 033 NY 32712 08536 Gate on left for Poet’s Walk route 18 034 NY 33260 08458 At road just E of Thorney How Hostel Stage 4 Grasmere to St Sunday Crag to Patterdale (81/2 miles) 19 035 NY 33952 09817 Two Tongue paths separate 19 036 NY 34908 11680 Grisedale Pass (Hause) 21 037 NY 36932 13393 Summit of The Cape (841m); head N briefly to cairn 21 038 NY 36975 13678 Cairn; descent NE from St Sunday Crag begins Coast-8 Colour map layout-Q9_Pemb-2 Colour map layout.qxp 6/3/18 2:38 pm Page 2

Lamplugh PartononPart Low Moresby Ki

A595 A5086 Moresby Arlecdon

IRISH Parks SEA Rowrah Croasdale WHITEHAVENWHITEHAVEN Frizington

B5345B5 B5 AA5086 5 34 0 MAP 8 B5295B529 86 Ennerdale MAP 2 5 5 B5294 Bridge

E MAP 3 n M Cleator ne rd Sandwith Moor Moor al e W Row ater MAP 7 Sandwith Newtown

MAP 4 Cleator A595 MAP 5 MAP 6 St Bees MAP 1 B5345 WiltonWilton Egremont

Middletown Thornhill

1000m

800

600 Ennerdale Start of St Bees Cleator Water Dent Hill Red PPike 400 alternaalternative Ennerdale Moor routroute 200 Fleswick Bridge Sandwith Row Bay

0 miles 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 18 19

Maps 1-7 – St Bees to Ennerdale Bridge Enner 14 miles/22.5km – 6¼hrs Brid

Maps 7-14 – Ennerdale Bridge to St Bee Rosthwaite (Borrowdale) 15 miles/24km – 6½hrs (low route) NOTE: Add 20-30% to these times to allow for stops

Job: 701091 Title: Coast 8 DTP: FF Page: Map_2 Coast-8 Colour map layout-Q9_Pemb-2 Colour map layout.qxp 6/3/18 2:39 pm Page 19 10km 95 9592 Bay

94 Sea FINISH 5 miles North North 93 Robin Hood’s 92 91 90 0 0 89 Whitby 88 High Hawsker Grosmont 87 Littlebeck Egton Bridge 86 EASTERN SECTION Map 85 – p239 Glaisdale Rigg Map 86 – p240 Glaisdale Map 87 – p243 Egton Bridge Map 88 – p246 Sleights Moor Map 89 –Êp247 Littlebeck Map 90 – p249 Falling Foss Map 91 –Êp250 Graystone Hills Map 92 – p251 Low Hawsker Map 93 – p252 High Hawsker Field Post Rocket p253 – 94 Map Bay Hood’s Robin p255 – 95 Map 85 Coast to 84 Glaisdale 83 Blakey 82 81 80 79 Top T op 78 Clay Bank Redcar 77 76 Hartlepool 75 74 Middlesbrough Map 71 – p217 A19, Exelby Map 71 – p217 Map 72 – p219 Ingleby Cross Moor Wood Scarth p224 – 73 Map Map 74 – p225 Huthwaite Green Map 75 – p226 Carlton Moor Map 76 – p227 Kirby Bank Top Map 77 – p228 Clay Bank Map 78 – p230 Urra Moor Crossing Bloworth p231 – 79 Map Map 80 – p232 Farndale Moor Moor Blakey High p233 – 81 Map Map 82 – p235 Fat Betty Map 83 – p237 Great Fryup Dale Map 84 – p238 Hart Leap 73 Osmotherley 72 Cross Ingleby 71 on Tees on T ees Tees Stockton Stockton 70 Northallerton 69 Sedgefield 68 Wiske W iske Danby Hill Hill 60 Oaktree Oaktree 67 Darlington 66 59 65 58 Bolton- Bolton- on-Swale on-Swale NORTH YORKSHIRE YORKSHIRE 57 64 56 A1(M) 63 Map 57 – p194 Marrick Map 58 – p195 Marske Applegarth Scar Map 59 – p196 Wood Map 60 – p197 Whitecliffe Map 61 – p199 Richmond A6136 road Map 62 – p206 Map 63 – p207 Colburn Map 64 – p208 Catterick Bridge Map 65 – p209 Bolton-on-Swale Whitwell to Turn-off p210 – 66 Map Streetlam Map 67 – p211 Map 68 – p213 Danby Wiske Farm House Wray p215 – 69 Map Map 70 – p216 Harlsey Grove Farm Colburn 62 61 Bridge Bridge Catterick Catterick 60

Staindrop A66 59 60 Leyburn 58 59 Richmond Marske Bishop Auckland Bishop Auckland 57 Reeth 56 51e Marrick 55 51d Castle Barnard 54 Gunnerside 53 51c 52 MAP KEY MAP Map 49 – p172 Ravenseat Farm Map 50 – p173 Keld Map 51 – p177 Gunnerside Moor Map 52 – p179 Melbecks Moor Map 53 – p180 Level House Bridge Map 54 – p181 Surrender Bridge Map 55 – p182 Healaugh Map 51a – p183 Ivelet Wood Map 51b – p185 Ivelet Map 51c – p185 Gunnerside Map 51d – p186 Blades Map 51e – p187 Healaugh Map 56 – p192 Reeth 51a 51 51b DURHAM Ivelet Ravenseat 50 Keld Keld 49

e: Coast 8 Job: 701091 Title: Coast 8 : Map_18 DTP: FF Page: Map_19 Coast-8 Colour map layout-Q9_Pemb-2 Colour map layout.qxp 6/3/18 2:39 pm Page 20 51e M 55 Reeth 51d Castle A AM Barnard 54 Gunnerside H HA 53 51c R RH 52 U 51a 51 51b DURHAMD DU Ivelet 50 Ravenseat Keld 49 47 46 48 45 45a WESTERN SECTION 44 Map 45a – p167 B6270, Green Route Map 46 – p167 Nine Standards Rigg Map 47 – p168 Whitsundale Beck Map 48 – p170 Ney Gill Map 49 – p172 Ravenseat Farm Map 50 – p173 Keld Map 51 – p177 Gunnerside Moor Map 52 – p179 Melbecks Moor Map 53 – p180 Level House Bridge Map 54 – p181 Surrender Bridge Map 55 – p182 Healaugh Map 51a – p183 Ivelet Wood Map 51b – p185 Ivelet Map 51c – p185 Gunnerside Map 51d – p186 Blades Map 51e – p187 Healaugh Hartley Coast to 43 42 Brough Kirkby 41 Stephen 40 39 38 36 Orton Sedbergh 37 35 6 M6 Oddendale 38 A6A66 37 34 39 Shap M6 33 32 Penrith 31 Map 30 – p143 Burnbanks Map 31 – p144 Rosgill Bridge Abbey Map 32 – p145 Shap Map 33 – p146 Shap Map 34 – p149 Shap Map 35 – p150 Oddendale Fell Ravensworth Crosby –Êp151 36 Map Grave Map 37 – p153 Robin Hood’s Map 38 – p154 Orton Scar Moor Tarn Map 39 – p155 Map 40 – p156 Ravenstonedale Moor Map 41 – p157 Smardale Bridge Map 42 – p158 Smardale Fell Map 43 – p159 Kirkby Stephen Map 44 – p165 Birkett Hill Map 45 – p166 Hartley Fell 40 30 Haweswater Kendal 29 28 27 Burnbanks 26 Windermere W indermere 25 24 Troutbeck T routbeck Ambleside 22 23 20

66 66 Patterdale

Easedale

A A66 A 21 17 18 15 16 Grasmere CUMBRIA 10km Rosthwaite 5 miles 14 Coniston Map 14 – p116 Borrowdale Map 14 – p116 Eagle Crag Map 15 – p119 Map 16 – p120 Greenup Edge Map 17 – p121 Far Easedale Map 18 – p122 Easedale Tongue Map 19 – p129 Great Tarn Map 20 – p131 Grisedale Map 21 – p132 St Sunday Crag Map 22 – p133 Striding Edge Map 23 – p133 Elmhow Plantation Map 24 – p134 Harrison Crag Map 25 – p137 Patterdale Map 26 – p139 Satura Crag Map 27 – p140 Kidsty Pike Map 28 – p141 Haweswater Reservoir Map 29 – p142 Haweswater Reservoir Stone- thwaite 13 Keswick 12 Seatoller 0 0 11 10a/b 10 Cockermouth 9 Castle Ravenglass Water Water W ater Muncaster 8 Ennerdale Ennerdale 7 Gosforth Bridge 6 Ennerdale 5 Workington W orkington Cleator 4 MAP KEY MAP Map 1 – p93 South Head Map 2 – p94 Fleswick Bay Map 3 – p95 Sandwith Map 4 – p97 Moor Row Map 5 – p99 Cleator Map 6 – p100 Raven Crag Map 7 – p101 Ennerdale Bridge Map 8 – p103 Ennerdale Water Map 9 – p105 Ennerdale Water Ennerdale YHA Map 10 – p106 route Pike Red p107 – 10a Map High Crag Map 10b – p110 Black Sail YHA – p111 Map 11 Tarn Blackbeck Map 12 – p112 Seatoller Fell Map 13 – p113 St Bees START S T ART SSea e a S e a 3 Whitehaven I r i s h Irish I r i s h 1 2

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edition

ISBN 978-1-905864-96-6 7819059 864966

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THE TRAVEL ALLIANCE 01225 406440

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51995 >

waypoints and tracklog

Includes downloadable GPS o www.trailblazer-guides.com

bunkhouses, hostels and campsites) THE SUNDAY TIMES

footsteps’. restaurants); where to stay (B&Bs, hotels,

walk in Wainwright’s What to see; where to eat (cafés, pubs and

detail you’ll need for a Practical information for all budgets o

guide – with all the

for all access points

‘The most complete

Detailed public transport information o

North York Moors.

day walks short breaks

or lights on ST BEES TO Yorkshire Dales and the

hiking the entire route or sampling high- Parks – the Lake District, the

Itineraries for all walkers – whether o

walk crosses three National HOOD’S BAY ROBIN

This spectacular two-week

edited maps drawn by walkers for walkers Sea at Robin Hood’s Bay.

are not general-purpose maps but fully Northern England to the North

stay, places to eat, points of interest. These (320km) across the width of

Sea for almost 200 miles times, directions, tricky junctions, places to

runs from St Bees on the Irish Unique mapping features – walking o

The Coast to Coast Path

walking maps currently available in the shops

London

50 miles these are bigger than even the most detailed

100km

Cardiff

under 1:20,000 (8cm or 3 inches to 1 mile) / 8 1

DANIEL McCROHAN

the largest-scale maps available – At just

Birmingham Includes 109 detailed walking maps: o

HENRY STEDMAN &

COAST PATH

COAST TO

Bay

St Bees to Robin Hood’s Bay

Hood’s

St Bees

ST BEES TO ROBIN HOOD’S BAY

ST BEES TO ROBIN HOOD’S BAY 33 Robin towns and villages from to

upon Tyne

and restaurants in detailed guides

Edinburgh PLANNING – PLACES TO STAY – PLACES TO EAT Newcastle

includes accommodation, pubs

109 large-scale maps & guides to 33 towns and villages

THE SUNDAY TIMES

PATH

They are particularly strong on mapping...’

shoulders, waist and ankles above the rest.

Coast to Coast

Coast to Coast ‘...the Trailblazer series stands head,

EDN 8 Coast to Coast Path Coast to

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DISTRIBUTED IN USA BY NBN NBN BY USA IN DISTRIBUTED % 1-800-462-6420 www.nbnbooks.com 8 8 www.nbnbooks.com 1-800-462-6420 % Price in USA US$19.95 EDN EDN US$19.95 USA in Price

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