KLMNO

TrSUNDAYav, MAY 6, 2018 . SECTIONe F l EZ EE

Along the East Coast, cyclists give old rail lines new purpose

ISLAND LINE IMAGES

A grand tour verything we love about New England route under development from Canada to Key is better by bike. When you’re on two West, Fla., is a good place to start. Bruce wheels, the air is crisper, the small Donald, acting New England coordinator for towns lovelier, the coast a bit more like of New the Greenway Alliance, said the region is Eheaven, and the wild blueberries may even be further along than the rest of the East Coast in sweeter. Greenway development. Many of the region’s Last summer, when I found myself without trails are built on former railways, guarantee- a bike while visiting family in Vermont, I ing a relatively flat ride. Also appealing: the rented one at Omer and Bob’s Sportshop in England variety of cycling options in New England. nearby Lebanon, N.H., and rode part of the “You have the urban areas where people are Northern Rail Trail. I pedaled on flat, easy commuting and suburban sections with fewer terrain through a tunnel of brilliantly green BY MELANIE D.G. KAPLAN cars,” Donald said, “and then you get to these trees and detoured to a sparkling lake. Since Special to The Washington Post bucolic places — in every state — and you’re then, I’ve started jotting down names of other literally in the woods with nature, with an trails in the region that I want to bike this eagle and the occasional black bear.” summer — probably many summers hence, by If you’re not sold yet, just wait until the the length of my list. The is a 3,000-mile cycling route under muggy season hits the Mid-Atlantic, and New The East Coast Greenway, a 3,000-mile bike development from Canada to Key West, Fla. NEW ENGLAND CONTINUED ON F5

NAVIGATOR In Slovenia, a ski and a swim make an unusual pairing Should travelers book rentals through

BY NOAH CHARNEY into Dalmatia. Yet this is just an Logistically, in terms of trans- third-party sites? F2 Special to The Washington Post hour or so from the northern port time, I recognize that this is mountainous region, fringed by easily doable. To get from the DINING Living in Slovenia, you often two ranges of the Alps, looming town that I now call home — Where to eat breakfast, hear about the benefits of the on the horizon, capped by snow Kamnik, which boasts three cas- wonderfully compact yet diverse deep into spring. tles and stands at the foot of the lunch and dinner terrain of the country. Stretching As an American expat happily Kamnik-Savinja range of the Alps in Tucson. F2 over a territory about the size of living in Slovenia for many years, — to the coastline takes just about New Jersey, it runs the gamut of I love exploring my adopted 90 minutes. But I don’t know BABY ANIMALS landscapes. country and looking, more deeply anybody who has actually tried it. ’Tis the season. See Consider the vast underground than perhaps even locals do, into Could I actually ski in the limestone cave systems, just a what makes it such a wonderful morning and swim in the after- which zoos and parks short drive from the flatlands of place to visit and reside. One line noon? Beyond the idea that this have new arrivals. F3 the Pannonian Plain, populated I hear frequently, and which might make for a very warm by storks and gypsies. The dark, guidebooks like to boast about, is morning of skiing and an ex- ADVENTURE fairy-tale forests of the southern that the country is so compact, tremely cold afternoon of swim- region, dotted with castles and with such a diversity of terrain, ming, there was the question of Want to hike near an small churches, are mere minutes that you can ski in the morning SUPERSTOCK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO whether any ski resorts stay open active volcano? Here’s from the 30 miles of Adriatic and swim in the ocean in the The harbor at Koper, Slovenia, on the Adriatic Sea, where long enough into the spring (or what to consider. F4 coastline that stretches far south afternoon. the author took a dip to test the frigid waters. SLOVENIA CONTINUED ON F6 SUNDAY, MAY 6, 2018 . THE WASHINGTON POST EZ EE F5

19 miles of continuous off-road trail. For bike rentals, head to Taking Dash Bicycle Shop or NBX Bikes, which has four locations. life by the Connecticut The Farmington Canal Heri- tage Greenway is one of the favor- handlebars ite rides in New England’s south- ernmost state. The nearly completed trail, NEW ENGLAND FROM F1 part of the East Coast Greenway, MELANIE D.G. KAPLAN ISLAND LINE IMAGES runs for 47 miles in central Con- England will be calling your name necticut and extends to rather convincingly. Below are Northampton, Mass. Greenway suggested routes by state — a Alliance’s Donald recommends mere sampling of biking trails in starting in Simsbury for a “flat, the region — followed by helpful scenic and historic” 28-mile loop links and tips for renting and passing through five towns in the riding. Begin here, but detour Farmington River Valley. The loop often. is all paved and offers access to small downtown areas with res- Maine taurants and inns. The East Coast Greenway be- Air Line State Park Trail begins gins in Calais, Maine, at the Cana- in East Hampton and stretches to dian border. The 87-mile Down the eastern part of Connecticut, East Sunrise Trail, on former log- along the 1870s rail bed. Cyclists ging roads in the Moosehorn Na- on this path — named because it tional Wildlife Refuge (you may was part of a straight run between see moose from afar), is the lon- Boston and New York — pass gest continuous stretch of Green- waterfalls and cross viaducts, way to date. The route is stunning, sharing the path with hikers and passing through primeval forests horseback riders. In the southern and storybook villages; don’t be section, East Hampton to surprised if you cover miles be- Colchester and back is a 22-mile fore you encounter another hu- spin. Take the trail all the way to man. But keep in mind, this stone Thompson, in the northeast cor- dust-trail is the only Greenway ner of the state, for a ride that tops route that allows ATVs. If you hear 40 miles. Rent bikes at Pedal Pow- one, pull over and yield to the er, which has four locations. motor. To bike with the locals, check In Portland, rent a bike at Gor- out the five or six weekly rides ham Bike and Ski, and hop onto offered out of Ridgefield Bicycle the Eastern Trail, also part of the in southwest Connecticut. Offer- Greenway, in South Portland. The ings range from leisurely back- majority of Gorham’s rental cus- road spins to cutthroat road rides, tomers bike down the coast and LOCAL MOTION and they often end at local water- hit Portland Head Light, the light- ing holes, such as CakeBox or Tusk house in Cape Elizabeth’s Fort & Cup. Bike shop owner Jacqui Williams Park. From there, take Dowd said visitors are welcome to the marked trail to Old Orchard join the Ridgefield Bicycle Sport Beach, Kennebunk and — if you’re Club rides, which can attract ambitious — all the way to Ports- more than 100 cyclists at the mouth, N.H., and back, about 100 height of the season. “Expect hills miles. Range Morton, a manager for sure, and if you’re on the road, at Gorham, also recommends ex- definitely wear bright colors and ploring the islands of Casco Bay use lights in the front and rear,” by bike; the largest, Peaks Island, she said. “There’s miles and miles is a 17-minute ferry ride away. If of gorgeous, beautiful backcoun- you love lobster rolls, Morton sug- try New England roads, but the gests stopping at the no-frills Lob- roads can get windy and narrow.” ster Shack in Cape Elizabeth or the new Highroller Lobster in Rules of the road Portland. Gorham has additional If one of these excursions calls rental locations along the trail in out to you, contact the bike shop Saco and Kennebunk. ahead of time to inquire about rentals — availability, types of New Hampshire bikes offered and what’s included. The Northern Rail Trail is built LOCAL MOTION LOCAL MOTION Prices vary depending on the on the old railroad bed of the CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: On boards or along stone paths, cyclists are treated to breathtaking views all along the East Coast length of rental and whether you Boston and Maine Railroad’s Greenway. In East Providence, R.I., the East Bay Bike Path follows the footprint of a former railroad. The 87-mile Down East want kids wheels, a high-end road Northern Line. The path begins in Sunrise Trail, in Maine, is the longest stretch of the Greenway completed so far. Bikers and horseback riders share the Hop River bike or something in between. Lebanon, close to the Vermont State Park Trail, in Connecticut. It links up with the Air Line State Park Trail, which passes waterfalls and crosses viaducts. Rentals typically come with a hel- border, and stretches 58 miles met, lock and water-bottle cage, through Enfield, Canaan, Dan- sometimes with a pouch, lights bury and Andover, ending just and a car rack. I generally find past Boscawen. “It’s hard to do an Flume Gorge at the base of Mount Hero and pedaling to Hackett’s Museum of Industry & Innova- Rhode Island bike shop staffers to be helpful extensive ride here and stay away Liberty. You can catch a shuttle Orchard, where you can fill your tion in Waltham. The path is heav- The Ocean State has an impres- and kind. Ask them about local from hills, but the rail trail isn’t back to the tram from Sport Tho- backpack with apples, or Snow ily used by cyclists, as well as sive network of bike paths and no rides, local eats and local weather hilly, it’s very scenic, and it’s away ma ski shop, which also rents Farm, the state’s oldest grape win- runners and walkers, who share shortage of killer water views. The when planning your trip. Many from cars,” said Jonathan Wilmot, bikes. ery (with its own vineyard). On the scene with rowers and sailors Blackstone River Bikeway runs shops offer free local cycling a manager at Omer and Bob’s the Burlington side, explore on the river. north and south for almost 12 maps. Sportshop. The shop is a parking Vermont Colchester Bog Natural Area and Visitors to can try the miles, a continuous path that ex- When it comes time for your lot away from the start of the trail, Last August, I was in Burling- Rossetti Beach Natural Area, then Cape Cod Rail Trail, a newly ex- perienced cyclists can ride (on- ride, wear padded shorts if you’re which has a crushed rock surface. ton and somehow missed what hit Switchback Brewing for lunch. panded, 26-mile paved path that and off-road) for an additional doing any distance. Drink plenty The section closest to Lebanon is must be one of the country’s most For a longer bike, try the 40-mile passes through a half-dozen five miles to India Point Park in of water ahead of time and while the most scenic (and busiest), fol- spectacular bike trails: the Island triple ferry loop, which dips into coastal towns, from Wellfleet, Providence, at the head of Narra- you’re cycling to prevent dehydra- lowing the Mascoma River and Line Trail. The 14-mile, kid- New York. near Cape Cod National Seashore, gansett Bay. The trail follows the tion. A small pack is useful for passing Mascoma Lake about friendly route, which is part of the When the Lamoille Valley Rail southwest almost to Yarmouth. Blackstone River and Blackstone things such as a phone, camera, four miles from the shop. In En- Lake Champlain Byway, is now Trail is complete, it will run 93 Rail Trail Bike & Kayak, which has Canal with views of waterfalls, snacks, sunscreen, a towel for field, stop for lunch at Mickey’s high on my list; it follows Burling- miles through 18 communities a rental fleet of 100 bikes and a marshes and wildlife, including beach detours and a windbreaker Restaurant & Tavern. If you make ton’s waterfront and continues across northern Vermont, making website that details stops along great blue herons, cormorants, if the weather’s iffy. I’d suggest it to Danbury, the Country Store smack into the middle of the lake. it the longest rail trail in New the trail, is located roughly in the ospreys, eagles, foxes and musk- bringing credit cards for bike offers picnic provisions. Cyclists ride an old railroad England. The scenic path is on the middle, near Nickerson State rats. -shop deposits and greenbacks for If the flat rail trails leave your causeway once used to export right of way of the former St. Park. Dan Poitras, who owns the From India Point Park, at the country stores, ice cream parlors, legs begging for more, head to the granite out of the state and take in Johnsbury and Lake Champlain shop, said vacationers often bike confluence of the Seekonk and sandwich shacks and ferries that hills. Franconia Notch is a breath- an awesome panorama from the Railroad, and passes through the around the Cape and never get in Providence rivers, the mostly flat, don’t take plastic. Follow bike taking mountain pass in the pop- middle of Lake Champlain, with spine of the Green Mountain their cars. “There’s something for 14.5-mile East Bay Bike Path fol- trail etiquette: Ride on the right ular White Mountain National the Adirondacks to the West and range. Currently, two sections are everyone — cranberry bogs, state lows the footprint of the former unless passing, and give an audi- Forest, and Franconia Notch Bike Green Mountains to the east. (I’ve open: Section 1A is 15 miles, wind- parks and forests, beautiful views, Providence, Warren and Bristol ble signal when you do pass. Stop Path is a nine-mile trail within the heard the view’s even better at ing through farmlands and for- small towns, beaches, the Three Railroad. “It’s quite a treat to bike at all stop signs; slow down and state park. The path is paved and sunrise and sunset.) The cause- ests of Caledonia County; Section Sisters lighthouses,” he said. “The into historic Providence from the use extra caution around dogs, hilly, with an approximately 800- way continues nearly across the 1B is 17 miles, following the Lam- bike trail creates accessibility to East Bay Bike Path and enjoy kids and pedestrians; err on the foot elevation gain from south to lake, save a 200-foot gap for boats. oille River and connecting to the certain beaches without traffic.” views of sailboats on the Narra- side of safety and walk your bike north. To bike in the mountains That’s where you walk your bike Greenway in Cambridge. For fueling up, he suggests Eat gansett Bay,” said Dennis Marka- in heavily congested areas. without actually climbing, start at onto the bike ferry (naturally) to Cake 4 Breakfast Bakery near his tos-Soriano, the East Coast [email protected] the base of the aerial tramway continue on the trail. Ross Saxton, shop or Arnold’s Lobster & Clam Greenway’s executive director. (which takes visitors to the 4,080- a manager at Local Motion, an In Boston, the Greenway fol- Bar in Eastham. For the adventur- The Greenway in Rhode Island Kaplan is a freelance writer in the foot summit of Cannon Mountain advocacy organization that has a lows the Charles River Bike Path ous: Bike the rail trail to Province- also includes the Blackstone Riv- District. Her website is for views of New York, Maine and trailside bike-rental shop, sug- for 12 miles, past the Museum of town, board the ferry, then pedal er Greenway and the Washington melaniedgkaplan.com. Find her on Canada) and ride downhill to the gests crossing the lake to South Science and the Charles River along the Charles River in Boston. Secondary Bike Path, which has Twitter: @melaniedgkaplan. United to resume its PetSafe program in June, with fewer permitted breeds

BY ANDREA SACHS and onward for travel beginning breeds and four cat breeds, in- to either country on United. on July 9. One caveat: The owner cluding pugs, mastiffs, Lhasa ap- Speaking of planning, be sure United to Pugsy: Stay. must be on the same flight as sos and bulldogs in the canine to borrow or buy a crate shorter This week, the airline released their cat or dog. Passengers who category and Burmese, exotic than 30 inches before arriving at its revised rules on four-legged book from July 16 for travel shorthair, Himalayan and Per- the airport. The company no passengers traveling in the cargo departing from July 30 can send sian cats. The rule also applies to longer provides or sells carriers. compartment, including an ex- their pets solo — no human escort mixed breeds. (The airline re- You can purchase one through panded list of breeds prohibited required. PetSafe will accept only quires a health certificate from a the airline’s website or at any pet from flying. The carrier decided cats and dogs. veterinarian that includes your supply store or online retailer. to reassess its PetSafe program United has also increased the pet’s breed, so there is no hiding United will continue to tinker after a series of unfortunate (and number of banned breeds. Previ- the chow chow or Pekingese lin- with PetSafe throughout the year. in one case, tragic) events in ously, the airline would not per- eages.) The ban applies to year- The airline has partnered with March. The changes apply only to mit six types of adult brachyce- round departures to all domestic American Humane, a Washing- animals being transported in the phalic breeds to fly year-round and international destinations. ton-based animal welfare group belly of the plane and not to pets and would ground several types In addition, the airline will founded more than 140 years ago, accompanying their owners in of dogs, such as the Boston terri- refuse to fly animals to four U.S. and will adjust its program as the cabin. er, during summer months over cities — Las Vegas, Phoenix, Tuc- needed. The carrier temporarily sus- health concerns. (Animals with son and Palm Springs, Calif. — “We are doing a top-to-bottom pended PetSafe but will start short or snub noses and strong between May 1 through Sept. 30, review of our entire product and restoring service on June 18. The jaws can suffer from respiratory because of extreme temperatures. service,” said Charles Hobart, a timetable goes as follows: Travel- ailments and breathing difficul- GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCK If you have planned a holiday in United spokesman. There may “ ers can reserve a flight for them- ties.) Moving forward, the airline Pets move along the tarmac in their flight containers. United will India or Australia, you should very well be adjustments.” selves and their pets from June 18 will no longer accept 21 dog begin to restore its PetSafe program for traveling animals June 18. find a pet sitter: Animals can’t fly [email protected]