KLMNO TrSUNDAYav, MAY 6, 2018 . SECTIONe F l EZ EE Along the East Coast, cyclists give old rail lines new purpose ISLAND LINE IMAGES A grand tour verything we love about New England route under development from Canada to Key is better by bike. When you’re on two West, Fla., is a good place to start. Bruce wheels, the air is crisper, the small Donald, acting New England coordinator for towns lovelier, the coast a bit more like of New the Greenway Alliance, said the region is Eheaven, and the wild blueberries may even be further along than the rest of the East Coast in sweeter. Greenway development. Many of the region’s Last summer, when I found myself without trails are built on former railways, guarantee- a bike while visiting family in Vermont, I ing a relatively flat ride. Also appealing: the rented one at Omer and Bob’s Sportshop in England variety of cycling options in New England. nearby Lebanon, N.H., and rode part of the “You have the urban areas where people are Northern Rail Trail. I pedaled on flat, easy commuting and suburban sections with fewer terrain through a tunnel of brilliantly green BY MELANIE D.G. KAPLAN cars,” Donald said, “and then you get to these trees and detoured to a sparkling lake. Since Special to The Washington Post bucolic places — in every state — and you’re then, I’ve started jotting down names of other literally in the woods with nature, with an trails in the region that I want to bike this eagle and the occasional black bear.” summer — probably many summers hence, by If you’re not sold yet, just wait until the the length of my list. The East Coast Greenway is a 3,000-mile cycling route under muggy season hits the Mid-Atlantic, and New The East Coast Greenway, a 3,000-mile bike development from Canada to Key West, Fla. NEW ENGLAND CONTINUED ON F5 NAVIGATOR In Slovenia, a ski and a swim make an unusual pairing Should travelers book rentals through BY NOAH CHARNEY into Dalmatia. Yet this is just an Logistically, in terms of trans- third-party sites? F2 Special to The Washington Post hour or so from the northern port time, I recognize that this is mountainous region, fringed by easily doable. To get from the DINING Living in Slovenia, you often two ranges of the Alps, looming town that I now call home — Where to eat breakfast, hear about the benefits of the on the horizon, capped by snow Kamnik, which boasts three cas- wonderfully compact yet diverse deep into spring. tles and stands at the foot of the lunch and dinner terrain of the country. Stretching As an American expat happily Kamnik-Savinja range of the Alps in Tucson. F2 over a territory about the size of living in Slovenia for many years, — to the coastline takes just about New Jersey, it runs the gamut of I love exploring my adopted 90 minutes. But I don’t know BABY ANIMALS landscapes. country and looking, more deeply anybody who has actually tried it. ’Tis the season. See Consider the vast underground than perhaps even locals do, into Could I actually ski in the limestone cave systems, just a what makes it such a wonderful morning and swim in the after- which zoos and parks short drive from the flatlands of place to visit and reside. One line noon? Beyond the idea that this have new arrivals. F3 the Pannonian Plain, populated I hear frequently, and which might make for a very warm by storks and gypsies. The dark, guidebooks like to boast about, is morning of skiing and an ex- ADVENTURE fairy-tale forests of the southern that the country is so compact, tremely cold afternoon of swim- region, dotted with castles and with such a diversity of terrain, ming, there was the question of Want to hike near an small churches, are mere minutes that you can ski in the morning SUPERSTOCK/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO whether any ski resorts stay open active volcano? Here’s from the 30 miles of Adriatic and swim in the ocean in the The harbor at Koper, Slovenia, on the Adriatic Sea, where long enough into the spring (or what to consider. F4 coastline that stretches far south afternoon. the author took a dip to test the frigid waters. SLOVENIA CONTINUED ON F6 SUNDAY, MAY 6, 2018 . THE WASHINGTON POST EZ EE F5 19 miles of continuous off-road trail. For bike rentals, head to Taking Dash Bicycle Shop or NBX Bikes, which has four locations. life by the Connecticut The Farmington Canal Heri- tage Greenway is one of the favor- handlebars ite rides in New England’s south- ernmost state. The nearly completed trail, NEW ENGLAND FROM F1 part of the East Coast Greenway, MELANIE D.G. KAPLAN ISLAND LINE IMAGES runs for 47 miles in central Con- England will be calling your name necticut and extends to rather convincingly. Below are Northampton, Mass. Greenway suggested routes by state — a Alliance’s Donald recommends mere sampling of biking trails in starting in Simsbury for a “flat, the region — followed by helpful scenic and historic” 28-mile loop links and tips for renting and passing through five towns in the riding. Begin here, but detour Farmington River Valley. The loop often. is all paved and offers access to small downtown areas with res- Maine taurants and inns. The East Coast Greenway be- Air Line State Park Trail begins gins in Calais, Maine, at the Cana- in East Hampton and stretches to dian border. The 87-mile Down the eastern part of Connecticut, East Sunrise Trail, on former log- along the 1870s rail bed. Cyclists ging roads in the Moosehorn Na- on this path — named because it tional Wildlife Refuge (you may was part of a straight run between see moose from afar), is the lon- Boston and New York — pass gest continuous stretch of Green- waterfalls and cross viaducts, way to date. The route is stunning, sharing the path with hikers and passing through primeval forests horseback riders. In the southern and storybook villages; don’t be section, East Hampton to surprised if you cover miles be- Colchester and back is a 22-mile fore you encounter another hu- spin. Take the trail all the way to man. But keep in mind, this stone Thompson, in the northeast cor- dust-trail is the only Greenway ner of the state, for a ride that tops route that allows ATVs. If you hear 40 miles. Rent bikes at Pedal Pow- one, pull over and yield to the er, which has four locations. motor. To bike with the locals, check In Portland, rent a bike at Gor- out the five or six weekly rides ham Bike and Ski, and hop onto offered out of Ridgefield Bicycle the Eastern Trail, also part of the in southwest Connecticut. Offer- Greenway, in South Portland. The ings range from leisurely back- majority of Gorham’s rental cus- road spins to cutthroat road rides, tomers bike down the coast and LOCAL MOTION and they often end at local water- hit Portland Head Light, the light- ing holes, such as CakeBox or Tusk house in Cape Elizabeth’s Fort & Cup. Bike shop owner Jacqui Williams Park. From there, take Dowd said visitors are welcome to the marked trail to Old Orchard join the Ridgefield Bicycle Sport Beach, Kennebunk and — if you’re Club rides, which can attract ambitious — all the way to Ports- more than 100 cyclists at the mouth, N.H., and back, about 100 height of the season. “Expect hills miles. Range Morton, a manager for sure, and if you’re on the road, at Gorham, also recommends ex- definitely wear bright colors and ploring the islands of Casco Bay use lights in the front and rear,” by bike; the largest, Peaks Island, she said. “There’s miles and miles is a 17-minute ferry ride away. If of gorgeous, beautiful backcoun- you love lobster rolls, Morton sug- try New England roads, but the gests stopping at the no-frills Lob- roads can get windy and narrow.” ster Shack in Cape Elizabeth or the new Highroller Lobster in Rules of the road Portland. Gorham has additional If one of these excursions calls rental locations along the trail in out to you, contact the bike shop Saco and Kennebunk. ahead of time to inquire about rentals — availability, types of New Hampshire bikes offered and what’s included. The Northern Rail Trail is built LOCAL MOTION LOCAL MOTION Prices vary depending on the on the old railroad bed of the CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: On boards or along stone paths, cyclists are treated to breathtaking views all along the East Coast length of rental and whether you Boston and Maine Railroad’s Greenway. In East Providence, R.I., the East Bay Bike Path follows the footprint of a former railroad. The 87-mile Down East want kids wheels, a high-end road Northern Line. The path begins in Sunrise Trail, in Maine, is the longest stretch of the Greenway completed so far. Bikers and horseback riders share the Hop River bike or something in between. Lebanon, close to the Vermont State Park Trail, in Connecticut. It links up with the Air Line State Park Trail, which passes waterfalls and crosses viaducts. Rentals typically come with a hel- border, and stretches 58 miles met, lock and water-bottle cage, through Enfield, Canaan, Dan- sometimes with a pouch, lights bury and Andover, ending just and a car rack.