UK & IRELAND GUERNSEY DESTINATIONS he 35mph speed limit on northwest coast are spectacular, Port, is the oldest community TGuernsey explains a lot. before quiet Ruettes Tranquilles in the Channel Islands, and Everything feels calm and (lanes with a 15mph speed limit Guernsey feels barrière stones still mark the relaxed here, which is why the that give priority to walkers, old medieval town. Home to guide who is leading my gentle cyclists and horse-riders) lead us English, French and a thriving finance industry, cycle ride along the northern through the interior to Bordeaux. neither – and that’s the busy marina, excellent coast has time to regale me with At 25 square miles, Guernsey the island’s charm restaurants and independent little snippets of island life, and is the second-largest of the shops give it huge appeal. let me in on the friendly rivalry Channel Islands. Sitting 75 miles Sights include 13th-century with its larger neighbour. south of England and 27 miles fortress Castle Coronet and “Jersey folk call us donkeys, from France, it’s accessible by Hauteville House, home-in- Channel island or ânes,” says Caryn Byrne. ferry from England’s south coast, exile of 19th-century French “That’s why I called my company and by air with Aurigny, Flybe Alderney and Herm, has its own novelist Victor Hugo, who wrote Donkey’s Days Out. We call them and Blue Islands. parliament; is British but not part Les Misérables while living on crapaud, after the Jersey toad.” Its potted history is played of the UK; and self-governing Guernsey. Excellent one-hour It’s one of several random out in the architecture, culture while still recognising the Queen. guided tours of the house bring conversations as we pedal and outlook. After King John of It feels English, French and to life his personality, politics, out of Bordeaux Harbour and England lost Normandy in 1204, neither – and that’s the charm. and sometimes dubious taste westwards past Beaucette two centuries after William the in interiors (book in advance). charm Marina, a former stone quarry, Conqueror’s Norman Conquest, w CAPITAL Other highlights include Slow down to appreciate the quiet beauty and the white sands of Pembroke the Channel Islands chose crown ATTRACTION Guernsey Aquarium and of Guernsey, says Meera Dattani and L’Ancresse. The views dependency status. The Bailiwick Guernsey’s capital, Candie Gardens for its from Rousse headland on the of Guernsey, which includes Sark, harbour town St Peter museum and views. Y guernse visit : : S PICTURE 44 travelweekly.co.uk 14 April 2016 14 April 2016 travelweekly.co.uk 45 UK & IRELAND GUERNSEY DESTINATIONS St Peter Port is a good base, not are plentiful across the island’s 10 least for its restaurants, which parishes. Suggest the three-star La Dining out include brasserie Mora, cocktail bar Bucolic scenes of Barberie, a farmhouse hotel with award- Red, harbourfront Le Nautique and winning restaurant, or four-star Bella Locals love Rousse kiosk’s The Pavilion for crab risotto Pickled Pig gastropub at the Duke of wildflowers and grazing Luce, also renowned for its food, both Guernsey gâche, and crab and pork with Torteval Normandie hotel. Guernsey cows in green in the southeastern parish St Martin. sandwiches at Fermain blue cheese sauce from SAMPLE Accommodation includes the island’s fields are a common sight Other recommendations include Beach Café in Fermain Bay, celebrated chef Tony Leck. only five-star, elegant Old Government luxury hotel Fleur de Jardin and La though for finer dining, Long-standing favourite Le PRODUCT House Hotel, with its conservatory Grande Mare Hotel, Golf & Country book the clifftop Auberge Petit Bistro serves classic restaurant and Crown Club bar. Four- Club near Vazon Bay, and boutique restaurant at Jerbourg for French dishes, while sister star options include La Fregate, an four-star The Farmhouse in St Saviour. locally inspired dishes. restaurant Le Petit Café Airways Holidays 18th-century house with fantastic views thanks in part to a sustainable dairy In St Peter Port, suggest does excellent breakfasts. offers seven and a renowned restaurant, quirky Red economy that’s kept farming viable. w COASTAL PURSUITS nights’ bed and Carnation hotel Duke of Richmond and Look out for the quirky Little Guernsey’s coast is its shining jewel, breakfast at the 14-room boutique newcomer Hotel Chapel in Saint Andrew parish, and with irresistible walking and cycling, ABOVE: The Little Chapel three-star Les Ziggurat, with its Moroccan-inspired the historic house and gardens at as well as 27 bays that are excellent Rocquettes in decor. Among Guernsey’s excellent Sausmarez Manor, then get a glimpse for surfing, windsurfing and fishing. St Peter Port three-star options is Les Roquettes, a of local craftsmen at work at gold Mac’s Adventures has a self-guided rocks off the coast. From L’Eree Bay on southeasterly Fermain Bay and Moulin from £676, or short walk from town. and silversmith Bruce Russell & Guernsey Coastal Path holiday suited the west coast, suggest walking at low Huet Bay, the latter much loved by from £655 at Son. The family business has been to keen walkers, and companies such tide to Lihou Island’s bird sanctuary. French impressionist painter Pierre- the beachfront w GREEN SCENES making traditional jewellery for four as Outdoor Guernsey offer abseiling, The sweeping crescent of Vazon Bay, Auguste Renoir. Cobo Bay Hotel. With plentiful free parking, a low speed generations, and offers free entry to kayaking and climbing, while Island Rib home to Guernsey Surf School, and Catamarans and ferries link St Peter Both prices limit and filter signs instructing cars its workshop and showroom, while its Voyages has trips on inflatable boats. Rocquaine Bay, are sunset favourites, Port to Herm and Sark, and most include flights to take turns at junctions, driving is three-hectare garden is a nice spot The south coast is particularly especially from the terrace of the Cobo touring itineraries will feature day trips from Gatwick or relatively unstressful. Bucolic scenes of for a stroll, and there’s a popular Mint spectacular, with towering granite Bay Hotel or Rockmount pub. to these smaller car-free islands. Saga’s Southampton, wildflowers and grazing Guernsey cows Brasserie and Tea Room. cliffs, quiet beaches such as Petit Port, Other beaches include Petits Bay A Channel Island Sojourn divides its departing May 21. in green fields are a common sight, Peaceful retreats and sea-view hotels and the Pea Stacks, a series of large and Pembroke Bay in the north and time between Jersey and Guernsey, airwaysholidays. com Premier Holidays features five nights’ bed and LEFT: St Peter Port breakfast at the BELOW: Hauteville House four-star Bella BOTTOM: Hotel Ziggurat Luce from £489 by sea from Poole, or from £559 by air. Five days’ car hire adds £135. The prices are valid from May to September. trade.premier holidays.co.uk Four nights’ bed and breakfast at the five-star Old Government House Hotel starts at £499 with Prestige Holidays, including afternoon tea, flights and private transfers, departing October 4. prestigeholidays. co.uk 46 travelweekly.co.uk 14 April 2016 14 April 2016 travelweekly.co.uk 47 UK & IRELAND GUERNSEY DESTINATIONS RIGHT: Guernsey bean jar FAR RIGHT: ‘Hedge veg’ including a full-day trip to Sark from cheese, fruit loaf gâche (‘gosh’) and the latter. Guernsey bean jar, traditionally made The German Occupation with pig’s trotter. w FOOD FOR THOUGHT Guernsey’s kiosks such as Port Soif While Jersey’s culinary reputation Museum is an impressive and Richmond are excellent spots at has been growing, thanks to four extension of a schoolboy which to sample such treats. Michelin-starred restaurants, Guernsey collection started in 1966 ASK THE has stayed under the radar – until w THROUGH THE AGES EXPERT recently. Confidence in the island’s Historically and culturally, Guernsey culinary scene is such that in is fascinating. Dating from 8000BC, September, the inaugural Guernsey when it separated from mainland Gill McCarthy, International Food Festival was held. recommending to foodie clients, with Europe, its numerous neolithic and sales director, Tennerfest, which has been running downloadable podcasts and maps of bronze age monuments include Dehus Airways Holidays for more than 15 years, involves 15 self-guided food-themed trails. burial chamber and La Varde Dolmen, “Guernsey has one more than 170 restaurants across the Local and seasonal are the the island’s largest megalithic structure. of Europe’s most Channel Islands offering three-course buzzwords, be it roadside ‘hedge Other sights include the Fort beautiful harbour menus from £10-£20 in October and veg’ stalls selling fresh produce, or Grey Shipwreck Museum and the 15 towns, fantastic November. ormers, the rare mollusc caught at low defensive loophole towers, built by restaurants and Visit Guernsey has also developed tide. Specialities include thick yellow the British in 1778-79 after France eclectic shopping. a series of Tasty Walks ideal for Guernsey butter, ice cream, Fort Grey allied with US rebels during the With nearly 30 American Revolutionary War. miles of cliff As the only British territory to be paths, it’s great occupied by the Germans, Second for walkers, with World War history lures many to a full programme the Channel Islands. Suggest the of guided walks German Military Underground and walking weeks Hospital and German Occupation in the spring and Museum. The latter, run by Richard autumn. For foodies, Heaume since 1966, is an impressive there are more extension of what started as a than 70 restaurants. schoolboy collection. Guernsey’s Victor Hugo described the Channel also perfect for Islands as “fragments of France that exploring the fell into the sea and were gathered up neighbouring by England”.