Issue 0 - Spring 2017 malagaeast.com

For the best holidays in the Axarquia!

Restored mill in Riogordo Magnificent Villa Rustic Villa Beautiful Villa for long term let near Velez Maro Welcome to the malagaeast.com e-zine! Spring 2017

This month’s front cover

Nerja and Maro’s glorious San Isidro celebration in May

¡Bienvenido! In this issue... From Malcolm and Julie Lewis, publishers of malagaeast.com Neanderthals here first! My wife and I lived and worked in this beautiful region of for over ten years, founding and produc- Were the first people to inhabit the Nerja area a different human ing a magazine for local expats, so in making malagaeast.com and its ezine we want to share some of our species? insights into what’s on offer for the tourist in the eastern Malaga area. By the way, don’t get confused if we Page 4 sometimes refer to this side of Málaga as the Axarquia - because that’s what it’s called in Spain! “ So, if you are looking for an octane-fueled, party-till-you-drop vacation, then on the face of it, we really shouldn’t recommend the Axarquia as your main base... But if you are, and are probably planning to go to the of Nerja Festival west of Málaga to the resorts that cater for this, then don’t forget that this area is only an hour or so away from This year’s festival starting in June. there! Page 5 But the sleepy villages and towns east of Málaga are far more than just relaxing, cultural pitstops on the ‘Viva España’ tour. There is entertainment for those, like us, that think at least one night should be spent wallowing away in some bar or night spot. You’re there to relax and unwind after all. There is a huge choice of bars and restaurants, some with live music as well, where this can be accomplished very satisfactorily. Take my word for it, (enough said Malcolm - Julie). After that, you’re going to need to sleep it off, and there are some fine sandy beaches that will help in that regard.

But after a few bacchic adventures you can then discover why the Axarquia deserves its worldwide popular- ity. Somehow it has performed the precarious balancing act of retaining its essential Spanishness, while still offering much of the tourist fare typically on offer at more cosmopolitan holiday destinations along the Costa del Take a trip along Axarquia’s Phoenician coastline... Sol. There are plenty of good hotels, apartments and villas, a golf course, great outdoor trekking in the nearby The coastal road from Nerja to Málaga, the old N340, traces the route of the original ‘Heraclean Way’... national parkland, as well as snorkelling, to be done in the clear waters further along the coast. Page 8 Hopefully, you will also have time to explore the old villages in which people have been living for hundreds, if not thousands of years. And maybe try to plan your visit to coincide with some of the fantastic ferias (festivals) that take place throughout the year! Details of these, as well as much more information, can be found on the website. San Juan! Don’t miss one of the great It’s not surprising that this area is becoming increasingly popular both as a holiday destination and for those festivals on June 23rd! looking either for a second home or permanent residence. With so much to offer from beautiful beaches, stun- Page 9 ning countryside, ancient historical villages, bars and restaurant with local and international cuisine - this area has something for everyone, and there is so much to see and explore - all within easy reach of Málaga airport!

malagaeast.com and its accompanying e-Zine, are ” dedicated to promoting the Axarquia as the ideal location for a holiday. We are not tied or affiliated to any property businesses, and exist solely through advertising.

malagaeast.com accepts no responsibility for content or assertions made by third parties. Reproduction in whole or part of this ezine is forbidden except with the permission of the 2 | Go to www.malagaeast.com for the best holidays in the Axarquia publishers. some parts an be slippery. Prams are not allowed, so Opening Hours be prepared to carry younger children. It is not suit- able for wheelchairs. Open every day except January 1st and May 15th. July - August: 10.00 to 19.30 Nerja’s pre-history: On exiting the caves you can explore the grounds September - June: 10.00 to 14.00 and 16.00 to 18.30 which include a cafe, souvenir shop, museum, picnic Caves of Nerja Festival in July: 10.00 to 18.00 area, children’s play area, and gardens. Neanderthals here first! Prices Getting there Adults - €8.50, children 6 to 12 - €4.50, children Despite being called the Caves of Nerja, they are under 6 - FREE, Pensioners - €4.00 WHILE MANY TOWNS around the world may claim to 20,000 to 12,000 years ago (definitely modern Euro- actually situated 4 kilometres away from Nerja, next be extrememly old, perhaps dating back hundreds or pean), include depictions of the animals they would to Maro. To drive there, follow the N340 towards Maro, Booking even thousands of years, few can claim to be origi- have hunted, such as horses, deer, goats, seals and and take the signs to the caves. nally inhabited by a different species of human! birds. There are also representations of human figures There is a large car park (with a small charge) in the Note these details are a guide only. believed to have been used in funeral rites, and others grounds. To confirm prices, opening hours, and for booking In Nerja, it was well which could represent female deities. Human remains and ticket sales ring the Caves of Nerja administra- known that there were have also been found in the caves and DNA testing of There are regular buses to the caves from Nerja. tion department on +34 952 52 95 20. Click here: http:// prehistorical settlements some of these remains have confirmed that they have www.cuevadenerja.es/index.php?lenguaje=en in the area from evidence African origins. found in a local caves net- work known as La Cueva The Caves of Nerja Festival... de Nerja. June 17th, when the famous singer, Arcángel, will pre- However, this fascinat- sent his latest album, ‘Tablao’. ing was recently de- scribed as the site of an This new auditorium will also host, on June 22, the ‘academic bombshell’, performance of the National Ballet of , by Alicia with the discovery of Alonso, who will represent ‘La magia de la danza’. In paintings of seals, (photo a unique program this anthology will include pieces on the right) allegedly cre- by Giselle, Sleeping Beauty, Nutcracker, Copelia, Don ated by Neanderthal man Quixote and Swan Lake. at least 42,000 years ago - potentially making them Then, on June 25, it will be the tenor José Bros, the only known art created by Neanderthals. who will be singing arias and duos from operas and zarzuelas, accompanied by the Malaga soprano, Berne So far not everyone is convinced at the veracity of Perles, and the pianist, Rubén Fernández Aguirre. the claim, and some feel further dating needs to be done. Indeed, in 2017, a new method of calcium dating Unfortunately, for good conservation reasons, the As a finalé there was announced that put the cave paintings at nearer upper galleries with the cave paintings are rarely avail- able to public view. However, experienced cavers can will be a perfor- to 20,000 years old, which would make Homo Sapiens very year there is a Festival of Music and Dance book a trip into these caverns on alternate Saturdays mance of the mar- the artists. held in one of the vast chambers of the Nerja from October to May. This must be booked in advance, vellous young vio- caves. linist, Paco Montalvo Archaeologists have discovered evidence of human (contact the Caves directly for more information). E in Nerja, at the cen- presence in the caves dating from 40,000 to 25,000 The festival, usually held in July, has become very tral Plaza de España, years ago, (whether Neanderthal or modern Euro- The rest of the enormous caves are however open famous, in fact the Queen of Spain once attended. No- next to the Balcón pean), when groups of hunter-gatherers would have to visitors, and there are some exhibitions and a small table performers have been Montserrat Cabelle, Kiri de Europa. Mon- roamed the area, and evidence at the site has provid- museum which gives some insight into how prehis- de Kanawa and José Carreras. talvo is considered ed a window into the lives and development of these toric people used and lived in the caves. the best violinist in people over the ages. But it is undisputed that the Spain and perhaps south coast of Spain was the last home for the Nean- 58th festival date - June 10th, 2017 Visiting the Caves one of the most out- derthals before extinction about 30,000 years ago. So The 58th edition of the ‘Festival de la Cueva de standing virtuosos perhaps Neanderthals were indeed the first Nerjeños! There are guided tours with radio-guide systems, Nerja’ will start on June 10th and will feature the fla- in the world. The as well as other new facilities intended to enhance the menco opera Carmen, by Salvador Távora, with danc- young musician will visitors’ experience. Nerja’s cave paintings ing, singing, and of course, guitar playing. present his album ‘Alma de violín fla- Some of the Nerja cave paintings dating from Remember to wear good, comfortable shoes as The second event will take place one week later, on menco’

4 | Go to www.malagaeast.com for the best holidays in the Axarquia Go to www.malagaeast.com for the best holidays in the Axarquia | 5 Stunning 4 bedroom villa with pool for rent... Stunning, modern 4 bedroom villa with private pool, established garden and outstanding views in a quiet urbani- zation. Less than 4 min drive to Nerja centre and within walking distance to bars, restaurants and shops in this quaint village. Near to beaches.

The Villa stands in its own gardens and has lots of accommodation including the main villa and a separate self contained apartment.

The main part has an external flight of steps to the first floor. Within is a living room with a fireplace and patio doors to a south facing balcony terrace with sea views. The kitchen is fitted with units and appliances and there are 2 double bedrooms and a bathroom. Downstairs is a twin bedroom, shower room, a lounge with sofa bed.

The self contained apartment has a large / kitchen / diner, a double bedroom, with en-suite shower room and on the first floor a large lounge with doors to a balcony terrace and access to a large roof terrace with panoramic sea views. Externally the garden has a lawn, mature trees, terraces (part shaded) and a private swimming pool.

Outside

Private 10×4 meter pool with terraces and garden with mature trees, garden tables and chairs, BBQ, pergola, various sun loungers, and parasols on all ter- races.

Main property

Living/dining room Sofa, easy chairs, wood burning stove, Sat. TV ( free view ) DVD, coffee table, dining table and chairs, doors leading to south facing terrace Separate apartment

Bedroom 1 Large fully equipped kitchen, with electric hob/oven, fridge- Double bed, dresser, bed side tables with lights, large wardrobe, mirror, freezer, washing machine, dishwasher, microwave, toaster, with door to Bedroom 2 Twin beds, bed side table and light, wardrobe, dresser and chair Bedroom 4 From €615.00 / week Double bedroom, beside tables, wardrobe, (small safe) with Bathroom access to Full length bath, with overhead shower, WC, sink, with sink unit, large mirrors. En-suite bathroom For more details on this property, Bedroom 3 with sep. access booking, prices, etc, click here! Twin beds, bedside table, dresser, wardrobe Shower, WC, Sink

Sitting room Lounge Sofa bed, with shelves and low table Stairs leading to large lounge with private balcony overlooking Bathroom the pool and spiral staircase to roof terrace with 360º view to sea Shower, washbasin, toilet ,washing machine, free standing mirror and mountains.

6 | Go to www.malagaeast.com for the best holidays in the Axarquia Go to www.malagaeast.com for the best holidays in the Axarquia | 7 Take a trip along: San The Axarquía’s Phoenician coastline! Don’t forget!Juan! - on June 23rd

Above - Roman ruins at Costa

N340, beyond the petrol station we pass a whole galaxy of Phoenician sites lying inland up the route of the now narrow Rio Velez, which is all that remains of a whole es- tuary stretching inland as far as Velez-Málaga itself. The rich agricultual land to your left was open sea, and is now the result of two thousand years of silt washed down from the hills above. ‘Midsummers Eve: an ancient celebration’ To the right we can see the evidence of massive Phoe- nician quarrying, lying on both sides of the Peñon (cliff- Of all the days in a year, there are few that had as side) or El Toro hill, now famous for the Osborne Bull. The much importance as mid-summers eve. Above, near Almayate - blocks cut out of the sandstone cliffs in what was originally a Phoenician quarry Phoenicians cut out sandstone blocks from the hill, which Ancient people identified this day with the summer they then sold all over the Mediterranean for construc- solstice which gave it a mystical importance. It has the tion purposes. Indeed, the ease with which this stone The coastal road from Nerja to Málaga, the old N340, This section of the bus route can always be explored longest day and the shortest night of the year. Tradi- could be worked was the reason why the quarry existed traces the route of the original ‘Heraclean Way’ that ran at a later stage on foot, but if we choose to continue by tionally ancient people believed that on Midsummer’s as early as the 8th century B.C. and had continued op- from Cadiz to Barcelona from Roman times onwards. But road, the next point of interest lies beyond El Morche, Eve magical powers were at their peak, and the barrier erating until the 1960’s. In fact it was used to build the even earlier there was a chain of Phoenician settlements, at the small village of Lagos. Passing the row of Norfolk between this world and the next became thinner. Evil Málaga Cathedral between the 16th and 18th centuries. connected mainly by the sea, which can still be recog- Pines that runs close to the sea, look upwards at the hill- spirits roamed the earth by day and the populace used nised by anyone travelling along the coast by car or bus. side, and imagine the Phoenician settlement of Chorreras magic to protect them against this hellish onslaught. Inland were vast store houses still in use in Roman that existed for over two centuries, housing the rich refu- Certain plants and herbs took on magical powers of times, as well as domestic and defensive buildings. First of all, choose a right-hand window if at all pos- gees from the who escaped from different inva- healing, divination and protection. For example, mis- sible, which is also the coolest side for the outward jour- sions in the 8th and 6th centuries BC. A mini of tletoe was used to protect against misfortune; worm- All along the rest of the coast, including Torre del Mar ney. Our first site of historic interest after leaving Nerja its day, complete with its own burial grounds, and shel- wood placed under a pillow would foster a dream of bus station itself, you can still spot the more recent sta- is of course Torrox-Costa, where the bus now takes us tered from the prevailing west winds bearing industrial your true love; Saint John’s Wort protected you from tion building of the railway that ran from Málaga via down to the end of the access road to the 2nd century fumes from iron furnaces along the Rio Algorrobo, which evil and helped you predict the future; the list goes on Rincon de la Victoria to Vélez, and was destined to con- AD Roman settlement of Caviclum. To the right of the we will be passing further along the coast. and on. tinue as far as Alhama de Granada. road just before the bend, the triangular roof protects the Fire was also used to drive ghosts back into the pottery kiln used to make amphoras for the Garum fish Look above again as the bus turns round a bend, to the spirit world. Men would strip to the waist and jump If you have children with you, you could award points for paste, an oriental delicacy introduced by the Phoenicians still inhabited site of Mezquitilla, where even today resi- through fires to show their courage thus discouraging each of these they manage to spot... Happy site spotting! and exploited commercially by the Romans. dents may come across pieces of ancient pottery from spirits from meddling with them. Bones were burned earlier Phoenician and Roman owners scattered around in bonfires and their ashes scattered to the four cor- By the coast itself, as the bus turns round to the left, their gardens. ners of a field to insure a good harvest. Lovers would you can make out the actual garum pits, though these leap through the same fires to increase fertility. are partially obscured by graves, possibly used at a later As you approach the high-rise apartment and the Al- With the introduction of Christianity into Europe, stage in an emergency following an epidemic, and for gorrobo river itself, look beyond the recently restored Midsummer’s Eve turned into John the Baptist’s feast which oblong wedges of pottery were produced for the lookout tower to a ridge beyond the green plastic, where day. In Andalucía, the eve of San Juan is celebrated on graves themselves. you can make out a row of cypress trees. This shelters the night of June 23rd. In the evening many beaches the Trayama Necropolis, one of the most important ar- are used as campsites for a single night. Bonfires are Before the bus completes its turn, around the present- cheological finds along this stretch of the coast, one of a lit along the coast and sometimes people can still be day lighthouse you can still see the remains of a Roman cluster of vast family tombs that denote the presence of seen jumping over fires to cleanse their body and soul. villa, complete with mosaics and wall-decorations. And affluent traders controlling the passage of valuable met- After midnight it is also tradition to wash your face finally, beyond the Ferreteria at the corner of the first als from inland, with the rivers themselves providing the and feet three times, to be granted three wishes, and block of flats to your right, can be seen the ruins of a basic trade routes. have a happy twelve months thereafter. Nowadays, The route is part of the ancient Heraclean Way - note that here Mal- small unit of domestic baths, probably part of the villa this is often accomplished by stepping into the sea, or aga has its ancient name of ‘Malaca’. complex. As we leave the centre of Torre del Mar and rejoin the even the local river, at 12 o’clock.

8 | Go to www.malagaeast.com for the best holidays in the Axarquia Go to www.malagaeast.com for the best holidays in the Axarquia | 9 Welcome to MalagaEast.com! Helping you choose the best holiday on the Costa del Sol.

You will also find extensive information on the Axarquia contained in the two handy Kindle books shown below, available on Amazon (click on the images). Both publications were written by Malcolm and Julie Lewis.

Go to www.malagaeast.com for the best holidays in the Axarquia | 10