Norm Thompson Apparel Quality Guidelines
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NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES Norm Thompson Apparel Quality Guidelines Updated 2009 1 NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES TABLE OF CONTENTS I. INTRODUCTION CONTACT INFORMATION ............................................................................................ 4 Technical Design & Quality .................................................................................. 4 Technical Designers............................................................................................... 4 II. VENDOR REQUIREMENTS............................................................................................ 5 SAMPLE TAGS ................................................................................................................. 5 PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS...................................................................... 5 PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES....................................................................................... 6 TOP-OF-PRODUCTION GARMENTS ............................................................................ 7 REQUIRED PROCESSES BEFORE SHIPPING.............................................................. 8 PRODUCTION REQUIREMENTS................................................................................... 9 QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION OF PRODUCTION GOODS............................... 9 III. NORM THOMPSON APPAREL GUIDELINES............................................................ 10 GENERAL ................................................................................................................ 10 MEASUREMENTS.......................................................................................................... 10 FABRICS ................................................................................................................ 10 COLOR ................................................................................................................ 10 CONSTRUCTION ........................................................................................................... 11 Stitching.................................................................................................. 11 Thread..................................................................................................... 11 Seams...................................................................................................... 11 Buttonholes............................................................................................. 11 Hems....................................................................................................... 12 Interfacing – Facing................................................................................ 12 Pockets.................................................................................................... 12 Collars..................................................................................................... 12 Plackets................................................................................................... 12 Cuffs ....................................................................................................... 12 Rib, Binding............................................................................................ 13 Waistbands/Belt loops ............................................................................ 13 FINDINGS ................................................................................................................ 13 Zippers.................................................................................................... 13 Buttons.................................................................................................... 13 Belts/Buckles.......................................................................................... 14 Shoulder pads ......................................................................................... 14 Linings.................................................................................................... 14 PRESSING ................................................................................................................ 14 2 NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES IV. PRODUCT LABELING REQUIREMENTS................................................................... 15 BRAND LABELS ........................................................................................................... 15 SIZE TAB LABELS......................................................................................................... 15 CARE & CONTENT LABELS........................................................................................ 15 Care Label Ruling................................................................................... 16 COUNTRY OF ORIGIN.................................................................................................. 16 LABEL PLACEMENT .................................................................................................... 17 V. SUSTAINABILITY RESOLUTION ............................................................................... 18 VI. FLAMMABILITY REQUIREMENTS............................................................................ 19 SUSPTECT FABRICS ................................................................................................... 19 RAISED FIBER FABRICS............................................................................................ 20 EXEMPTIONS ............................................................................................................. 20 VII APPAREL TESTING..................................................................................................... 21 BASIC QUALITY TESTING REQUIREMENTS ........................................................ 21 Woven Fabric ...................................................................................................... 21 Knit Fabric........................................................................................................... 21 Sweaters............................................................................................................... 22 VIII TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS................................................................... 23 NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol..................................................................23-26 IX TESTING LAB SUBMIT FORM ...............................................................................27-28 ADDITIONAL TESTS SUBMIT FORM ........................................................................29 OTHER TESTS ..........................................................................................................30-31 NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (other tests)..............................................30-31 TESTING LAB SUBMIT FORM (other tests) ............................................................32-33 X. APPENDIX ................................................................................................................ 34 READ AND COMPLY .................................................................................................... 35 SPECS. CARE & CONTENT SPECIFICATION SHEET .............................................. 36 GARMENT LABELS .......................................................................................................37 GARMENT LABELS SPECIFICATIONS.................................................................37-38 GARMENT LABEL EXAMPLES: SEWN IN GARMENT ..........................................39 GARMENT LABEL: ACTUAL “ON BODY” EXAMPLES....................................40-41 ASTM GUIDE ................................................................................................................ 42 3 NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES I. INTRODUCTION The Norm Thompson Technical Design team establishes corporate quality guidelines and, together with the Merchandise Department, develops products of quality and value. Questions regarding quality guidelines should be directed to the appropriate Tech Design team member listed below via phone, fax, regular mail, or email. CONTACT INFORMATION PHONE FAX ADDRESS 503-614-EXT. 503-614-4725 3188 NW Aloclek Drive Hillsboro, OR 97124 Technical Design & Quality NAME EXT. E-MAIL Carla Kildahl 4595 [email protected] Director Technical Design/Prod Quality Technical Designers NAME EXT. E-MAIL Ene Sokk 4631 Norm Thompson Apparel [email protected] Senior Tech Design Meagan Feeder 4691 Norm Thompson Apparel [email protected] Senior Tech Design 4 NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES II. VENDOR REQUIREMENTS SAMPLE TAGS All sample garments must be received with sample tags applied by the vendor and include the following information: a. Date b. Vendor name c. Vendor reference number d. Norm Thompson reference/product number e. Size f. Sample identification; i.e., 1st Prototype, 2nd Prototype, Pre-production Sample, Top of Production Sample, Photo Sample, etc. g. Color h. Fabric – content, fabric reference # , article #, and notation if substitute or correct ALL FIT SAMPLES are to be sent to the attention of Technical Design – not to the buyer. Samples received untagged will be returned to the vendor for tagging. PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS a. Read and Comply Statement will be generated and faxed with first Purchase Order for each style (see Appendix page 30). 1) Care and content is required on all styles and should be