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BAPTISM BY FIRE From Gamer to Robust Rambler

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FRIENDS OF THE HEYSEN TRAIL | SOUTH AUSTRALIA | ISSUE 154 | SUMMER 2019/20 CARAVAN PARK

The Natural Choice cleaning and gardening naturally

Ensuite Cabins | Bunkhouse | One Site Van | Camping surrounded by parklands, with a short stroll to town Gary & Bronwyn Lucas [email protected] 8648 6206

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FOR ALL OUR UPCOMING WALKS, TRIPS AND EVENTS www.bigheartadventures.com.au | 08 7006 5620 Level 1 192 Rundle St Adelaide SA 5000 (upstairs inside the Scout Outdoor Centre) About the Friends SUMMER 2019/20 • 3 CARAVAN PARK COUNCIL MEMBERS PATRON MAINTENANCE SECTION 2019/20 His Excellency LEADERS the Honourable PRESIDENT S1 Albert Schmidtke Hieu Van Le AC Melanie Sjoberg S2A Roger Dunn VICE PRESIDENT HONORARY MEMBERS S2B John Newland Suzanne Matthews Sadie Leupold S3&4 Hermann Schmidt PUBLISHED BY THE FRIENDS Thelma Anderson OAM (Wandergruppe Bushwalkers) OF THE HEYSEN TRAIL AND SECRETARY Kath Palyga S5 John Babister OTHER WALKING TRAILS Julian Monfries Richard Schmitz S6 Richard Webb Arthur Smith W heysentrail.asn.au TREASURER S7 Graham Loveday Stephen Salib-Brown Colin Edwards S8 Ian Harding (WEA Ramblers) facebook.com/HeysenTrail Hugh Greenhill S9 Jerry & Michelle Foster Robert Alcock twitter.com/HeysenTrail Glen Dow S10 Wayne Turner, Greg Boundy Barry Finn Kevin Crawshaw, Peter Deacon youtube.com/HeysenTrail Colin Edwards The Natural Choice Dean Killmier S11&12 Dom Henschke, pinterest.com/HeysenTrail Dom Henschke John Wilson cleaning and gardening naturally Colin Rozman, Rick Price Carol Homewood David Beaton S13 Hugh Greenhill CITY BRANCH John Newland Jack Marcelis (Mid North Branch) Suite 212, Epworth Building Neil Nosworthy Julian Monfries Ensuite Cabins | Bunkhouse | One Site Van | Camping 33 Pirie St, Adelaide SA 5000 Robyn Quinn Terry & Frances Gasson S14 Daniel Jardine John Wilson S15 Ron Capel (ARPA), Open Mon – Fri Simon Cameron surrounded by parklands, with a short stroll to town Don McDonald 10:30am – 2:30pm SUB-COMMITTEE David Rattray OAM CHAIRS Hermann Schmidt S16 Julie Starkey, Gary Wright Gary & Bronwyn Lucas T (08) 8212 6299 Robert Alcock S17A Vacant TRAIL DEVELOPMENT E [email protected] Liz O’Shea S17B Simon Cameron Colin Edwards [email protected] 8648 6206 John Potter S18 David Henery (Alpana MID NORTH BRANCH WALKING Kevin Liddiard Station), Gavin Campbell T (08) 8841 3450 Peter Larsson HONORARY MEMBERS OFFICE VOLUNTEERS E [email protected] (DECEASED) OFFICE MONDAYS David Rattray OAM Terry Lavender OAM MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION Jim Crinion Graham Loveday SINGLE MARKETING & Neville Southgate Neil Nosworthy MEMBERSHIP $25/year Doug Leane Elizabeth Rogers Helen Morgante Fred Brooks FAMILY TUESDAYS HONORARY Jamie Shephard $40/year MEMBERSHIP Valerie Boundy TRAILWALKER EDITOR Judy McAdam SCHOOLS/ORGANISATIONS Julian Monfries Greg Martin Chris Porter $60/year WARREN BONYTHON ART DIRECTOR David Rattray OAM HEYSEN TRAIL Membership is valid for Josh West 12 months from the date FOUNDATION WEDNESDAYS EDITORIAL of payment. CHAIRMAN Robin Bodycomb SUB-COMMITTEE Neville Haar Vicki Cahalan Robert Alcock Gilbert Downs SECRETARY Philip Bell Jack Marcelis Neil Nosworthy Robyn Coburn Colin Edwards THURSDAYS MID NORTH BRANCH Tammy Main Eve Buckley PRESIDENT Judy McAdam Erica Gordon Garry Fieldhouse Liz Rogers Julian Monfries Julie Stapleton Judy Szekeres VICE-PRESIDENT Elayne Sanders Kate Greenhill WEBSITE EDITOR Jeremy Carter FRIDAYS SECRETARY Cathy Bowditch Sally Fieldhouse MEMBERSHIP Erika Guess SECRETARY Julia McLachlan PUBLICITY OFFICERS David Rattray OAM Sam Nichols & Suzanne Mausolf Garry Fieldhouse OFFICE MANAGER RELIEF STAFF Dom Henschke Cover photo: Jonathan Vallario COUNCIL MEETING Eve Buckley on Day 1 of his 53-day Heysen DATES BOOKKEEPERS Colin Edwards Trail hike from Cape Jervis Wed 20 December 2019 John Wilson Dom Henschke to Parachilna Gorge with his Wed 15 January 2020 Maria Newland Graham Loveday brother Justin. Wed 19 February 2020 Tina Behnke Jack Marcelis Robyn Quinn Photo: Justin Vallario Margaret Fletcher Contents Trailwalker

Articles, reports and other submissions by members and interested parties are welcome and should be emailed to the Trailwalker Editor at [email protected] Deadline for the next issue (Autumn 2020): FRIDAY 31 JANUARY 2020

The Trailwalker magazine is 26 available by subscription or Ocean views online at heysentrail.asn.au/ from WA’s Cape trailwalker and is published to Cape Track and distributed quarterly: • Autumn (March) • Winter (June) • Spring (September) 05 13 26 • Summer (December) PRESIDENT’S VOLUNTEER ‘MANY PEOPLE The Trailwalker magazine REPORT PROFILE UNDERESTIMATE has a distribution of 1500, WA’S CAPE TO and an estimated readership MELANIE SJOBERG JULIE TESTI CAPE TRACK’ of approximately twice Volunteers are essential Julie shares her that number. ingredients for a Healthy involvement as a MELANIE SJOBERG Heysen. Friends volunteer. Contributors are urged DANIEL JARDINE to contact the Editor to Melanie and Daniel discuss their article prior to recommend a plan for 06 14 submission. The submission tackling the Cape to Cape FRIENDS NEWS END-TO-END Track in the Margaret deadline is usually the first SEASON River region of Friday of the month prior to Keep up-to-date with what’s Western Australia. the month of publication. happening on the Trail. REPORTS Views expressed in Catch up with a selection of our End-to-End groups 29 contributed articles are 09 those of the authors, and as they recap on a year EL CAMINITO 2019/20 SUMMER of walking. not necessarily those of the DEL REY TWILIGHT WALK Friends of the Heysen Trail. PROGRAMME 22 PAUL & PAULEEN BOND Paul and Pauleen ADVERTISING RATES BAPTISM BY introduce us to ‘The (EX. GST) 10 FIRE – MY Kings Little Pathway’, once the world’s most MAINTENANCE HEYSEN TRAIL dangerous walk. 1/8 PAGE $55 per issue REPORT EXPERIENCE 1/4 PAGE $80 per issue 1/2 PAGE $135 per issue JONATHAN VALLARIO JULIAN MONFRIES 30 FULL PAGE $200 per issue Jonathan reports how Julian reports on a trip FLYER (supplied for insertion) the Heysen Trail beat WILLUNGA BASIN to the Southern Flinders $240 per issue him down with numbing Ranges in September. TRAIL WINS pain and teared him up A commitment for 12 months with raw beauty. WALKINGSA RECOGNITION advertising (four issues) would attract 10% saving. 12 AWARD MEET THE NEW 25 Advertising specifications and BILL VINE HEYSEN TRAIL FAVOURITE article submission guidelines Bill explains why Friends are available upon request or AMBASSADOR SHORT WALKS of the Willunga Basin by visiting Trail were recognised JOSH WEST LIZ ROGERS with WalkingSA special heysentrail.asn.au/trailwalker Our newest Ambassador Port Noarlunga Beach recognition. discusses his connection to Onkaparinga to the Heysen Trail. Recreation Park. President’s Report SUMMER 2019/20 • 5

Volunteers are essential ingredients for a Healthy Heysen

MELANIE SJOBERG

e’ve arrived at the IDEAS FOR SHAPING THE TRAIL DEVELOPMENT end of our principle HEYSEN walk season and, This year has seen success with regular Ending a year offers an opportunity to of course, planning weekly work at the Friends’ Shed, reflect and ponder what to do in the is underway for led by Colin Edwards. Teams have future. It’s invigorating – and a healthy next year. However, there is a range of renovated a cabin, built platforms, cut sign for the future of the Friends – to Wshorter walks over the warmer months posts and various other jobs to prepare see our committees exploring ideas and to help you keep connected. for trail projects. Refurbishment of experimenting with how we continue to Hallett Railway Station and installation I think it’s important as we conclude shape the organisation and the trail. of a new cabin at Black Jack also have each year to recognise the dedication been big gains for infrastructure along of our many volunteers who work on, WALKS the Trail. walk along and talk about the Heysen Our Walking Committee has attracted Trail. For this reason, the Friends’ interest in some mid-week and Saturday MARKETING Council organises a social event to walks this year. Planning for 2020 The Marketing & Membership thank everyone for their contribution, started early with walk leaders asked to albeit appreciating that our volunteers Committee has enhanced our nominate dates on a shared electronic promotion by organising a significant are involved because they value the calendar before the regular planning Heysen Trail itself. improvement in our social media that session in October. This meant leaders generally reaches a wider audience. On behalf of the Friends’ Council, I could work around logged dates and The team also has travelled to country would like to specifically acknowledge locations, making for a smoother areas for events and placed Trailwalkers and thank David Rattray who is retiring final programme. We continue to in more locations. While these take after many dedicated years of service as benefit from the commitment of our some effort, it is boosting our regional Membership Secretary and Chair of the experienced walkers with a new team connections with a bit of fun thrown in, Office Committee. I also extend thanks volunteering to launch End-to-End so get in touch if you’d like to help out. from Council to Greg Martin who is 15 and trialling a Saturday schedule. stepping down as Trailwalker Editor after There’s also an End-to-End Minus 2 WE NEED YOU TO GET re-shaping it over the last couple of years. starting in the Flinders next year. INVOLVED The Friends’ Council is elected to oversight the activity, finances and direction of the organisation. Like Enthusiastic ›› Start with a ›› Infuse with ›› Inject a bit of the committees, it’s important for long-distance End-to-Enders order so the generating ideas to continue building volunteers adventure trail to walk it up coffers stay the Friends and developing the Heysen provide the marked with & down. on course. Trail for the next generation of walkers. posts & stiles. essential ›› Shake around ›› Season with I encourage newer members to ingredients ›› Insert 20 Section an office energy & consider nominating for Council or Leaders to keep it to fizz with enthusiasm. in our joining a committee to bring fresh pruned & signed. information. ›› Nurture & views and energy into the organisation. recipe for a ›› Add a Trail ›› Pop in a bunch refresh to The most important criteria are successful Development of marketing guard against enthusiasm for the Heysen and yet Trail. Committee for marvels to erosion. another way to enjoy the Friends and coordination & spread the the Trail. installations. profile wide. Friends News SUMMER 2019/20 • 6

Christmas/New Years Office Closure The Friends of the Heysen Trail office in Pirie Street will be closed over the Christmas period from 2.30 pm on Friday 13 December. The Office Volunteers will enjoy their Christmas break and return for an Office Volunteers Information/Training Day on Monday 3 February 2020. The office will reopen for business on the following day, Tuesday 4 February.

2020 HEYSEN TRAIL CALENDAR Showcasing photographs of South Australia’s long distance adventure hike - the 1,200km Heysen Trail from Cape Jervis at the tip of the Fleurieu Peninsula to Parachilna Gorge in the Ikara - Flinders Ranges Expression of Interest $12 One Week of Walking Heysen Trail the South Coast 2020 Calendar Sunday 4 October to walking on Thursday 6th February 2020, well prior to the opening of Due to the office closure, Friday 13 Saturday 10 October registrations on Sunday 5th April December will be your last chance to 2020. call into the office to purchase a copy 2020 (seven days of our new calendar. We will be open including a rest day) Once you have registered, please that day during our normal business The Friends of the Heysen Trail are consider booking accommodation hours of 10.30am-2.30pm. After that offering the opportunity to walk in the Fleurieu Peninsula. Visit you will still be able to order the the first six breathtaking sections www.heysentrail.asn.au/heysen- calendar through our online shop of the Heysen Trail in one hit from trail/accommodation www.heysentrail.asn.au/shop the trailhead at Cape Jervis to the for accommodation ideas. The sale price remains at $12 each delightful little hamlet of Inman Please note this is an extended walk (plus postage & handling). Valley, with six guided walks and for people wanting to do the entire buses to help facilitate the week. week of walking and not those only Online Shop The week of walking is designed wishing to do selected walks. to enable those from beyond All current walk leaders are leading Sales Adelaide – whether from intrastate End-to-End groups and have each While the office is closed, our online or interstate – the opportunity to completed the Trail at least twice. shop will remain open for business. complete these fantastic sections along the South Coast in a single Some of these walks are challenging However, as many of our volunteers so please ensure you come will be on holidays, it may take longer block, rather than the normal schedule with an End-to-End group. physically prepared for a memorable than normal to fill orders. We will week on the Heysen Trail. endeavour to despatch shop orders Those prospective walkers who within five business days. register an expression of interest Do you have any questions? Please email John Babister if you have any If you want to shop for last minute through the Friends’ office (phone 82126299) will be offered an early questions regarding the South Coast Christmas gifts we will process and Walk: [email protected] despatch any orders received by midday link to register for the week’s Wednesday 18 December on that day. Friends News SUMMER 2019/20 • 7

Another Record- Breaking Fire Season The Country Fire Service is bracing for a prolonged Fire Danger Season in 2019/20 after the previous season lasted a record-breaking 7.5 months. The latest Australian Seasonal Bushfire Outlook predicts an active 2019/20 fire season across Australia and South Australia, particularly in lower Eyre Peninsula and Kangaroo Island. CFS Director of Preparedness Operations, Brett Loughlin, said the Heysen Trail Closure dry start to the year resulted in less fuel load but drier vegetation which could burn quickly. during the Fire Danger ‘The key message is that there is no part of South Australia that has Season below average fire potential this season,’ he said. a naked flame is restricted or The Heysen Trail is ‘The forecast we have for this year banned in many areas. closed during the Fire is very similar to that of last year, Danger Season. Public reserves such as forests and and last year we saw the fire danger national/conservation parks are open season not only start early across SA, The Trail crosses four different Country to the public over the Fire Danger but extended later.’ Fire Service Fire Ban Districts so the Season. However, on days of Extreme ‘That’s the kind of risk that the closure dates vary slightly. However, or Catastrophic fire danger, they are forecast we’re currently seeing as we are in December, all sections closed. The closure information on presents for this fire season. It could are now in Fire Danger Season. these dangerous fire days is promoted be another long duration season.’ through the media, via radio and Consequently, the Trail south of television news bulletins. In addition, An increase in warmer and drier Wirrabara is now closed until 30 April access gates to forests and parks are weather due to Climate Change means 2020. In the Flinders Fire Ban District locked and have a sign informing a higher number of days of high or the Trail is expected to re-open on people that the area is closed due extreme fire risk. 15 April 2020. The region south of to the fire danger. Tanunda to Cape Jervis is also closed. You can find out more about the Please check the CFS website for sections of the trail that remain open further updates as these dates are most of the year on the Fire Danger subject to change: www.cfs.sa.gov.au Season section of our website: The Trail closure times must be obeyed www.heysentrail.asn.au/heysen-trail/ at all times, as the viability of the Heysen fire-danger-season Trail is dependent on the continuing Access to huts on the Trail is also cooperation of private landholders. restricted. A number of the huts We all know it has been another dry along the Trail are on private property winter – you only have to look at the and, therefore, are not accessible to low level of the farmers dams. the public (including walkers) during Some sections of the Trail are still the Fire Danger Season. These include open – depending on local fire ban Marschalls, Huppatz, Hiskeys, conditions. During the Fire Danger Catninga and Mayo Huts. Season there is still the opportunity to Huts in national and conservation walk along the Trail in forest reserves, parks or forest reserves are national and conservation parks, accessible during the Fire Danger and along country roads. However, Season, provided it is not a day of The remains of a marker from 2014 camping and the ability to cook with Extreme or Catastrophic fire danger. Wirrabara fires. Photo: Rodney Rees. Friends News SUMMER 2019/20 • 8

Nominations for Honorary Membership 2020 Nominations of members, including self-nominations, are End-to-End invited to be submitted to Julian Monfries, Chairman, Honorary Completed? Membership sub-committee of the Council, including name, address, contact numbers, and qualifications. What Now? Recommendations from the sub- committee will then be considered by the Council, before being presented to the full membership Turn around and head The adventure will start with a week, at the next AGM. based at Willow Springs Station, To be considered for the 2020 AGM, back the other way! north of Wilpena, on Saturday 16 nominations should be received by From Parachilna to Cape May to Friday 22 May, walking from the end of January. Jervis, it’s all downhill. Parachilna to Moralana Drive. This is to be followed by a week, Guidelines for Honorary Join End-to-End Minus 2 for a three Saturday 13 June to Sunday 21 June, Membership (Distinguished year adventure – north to south – walking from Wilpena Pound to Service): starting in May 2020. Warren Gorge. (i) Normally at least 10 years of paid Led by four End-to-End leaders – The final week for 2020 is Friday 26 membership as an Ordinary, Family Dean Mortimer, Julian Monfries, Peter July to Sunday 2 August, Warren Gorge or Life Member; Solomon and Simon Cameron – with to Melrose. AND over 10 End-to-Ends behind them and a wealth of walking experience. Register now on heysentrail.asn.au/ (ii) at least six years of substantial walks and join the party. voluntary contributions to the Association, including especially one or more of Membership of Council Chair of the various sub-committees, BLINMAN, SA regular Walk Leadership roles, Maintenance Section Leader or FLINDERS BEYOND Volunteer office. & CAMEL TREKS Guidelines for Honorary Join us in 2020 on a trek Walking treks fully catered. Swags Membership (Exceptional): and transfers included. No roads, no that completes the Heysen vehicles, no mobile reception; detach Substantial and sustained Trail’s remote section from hectic everyday life and enjoy contributions to promotion, ‘Beyond Heysen’. an unforgettable experience that will development and/or maintenance create memories to last a life time. of the Heysen Trail, or the Explore hidden treasures of the Flinders Ranges with camels carrying FOR MORE INFORMATION Association other than as a paid your supplies. Trek through gum-lined T: (08) 8648 3713 member or volunteer through, for creek beds, towering gorges, rare example, public service support, geological formations and sparkling dry E: info@flindersandbeyondcamels.com.au media support, etc. lakes. See native flora and fauna in its natural habitat and enjoy a night sky laser show with astronomer Ryan. Friends of the Heysen Trail Obituary Chris Caspar, a long time member of the Friends – a walker, council member and office volunteer passed 2020 WALKING TREKS JUNE 22 – JULY 8 | JULY 7 – JULY 23 away October 30th 2019. Vale. 2019/20 Twilight Walk Programme SUMMER 2019/20 • 9

Check the online 2019/20 Summer Twilight Walk Programme for latest updates Walk Programme and to register heysentrail.asn.au/ DECEMBER JANUARY FEBRUARY MARCH walks THU 05 The Summer Twilight Walks WED 05 WED 04 begin at 6pm, are typically 1.5 PATAWALONGA NO ONKAPARINGA MARION LOOP WALK to 2 hours long, and are within Melanie Sjoberg Leanne Bell Robyn Quinn close proximity to Adelaide. Followed by an optional social WED 12 dinner at a local restaurant. WED 08 KINGSTON PARK Participants require only WED 11 THU 12 PT Carol Homewood a modest degree of ANSTEY MARINO NOARLUNGA physical fitness. HILL LIGHTHOUSE Melanie Sjoberg THU 13 Julie Testi Robyn Quinn Here’s an example of the & Daniel Jardine MAWSON LAKES kinds of Twilight Walks on Marlene Henschke offer this summer:

WED 18 PORT NOARLUNGA SUNSET STROLL SUMMERTOWN WED 19 WED 18 WED 15 John Babister Wednesday 8 January 2020 MITCHAM BROWNHILL TORRENS AREA Led by Daniel Jardine and CREEK LOOP THU 19 Heather Melanie Sjoberg, this Twilight David Bowey Jon Holbrook Thompson PARADISE TO Walk is a wander through ATHELSTONE Port Noarlunga, a location Vas Dolman that retains a village feel. We then follow the Onkaparinga WED 22 WED 26 River, across a footbridge to BROWNHILL WILD DOG its mouth, and end with a CREEK GLEN THU 26 stroll along the beach. NO Heather Thompson Peter Clark WEST LAKES Approx. 1.5hours. 4-6km that WALK Marlene & could be changed subject to FRI 24 (7:30) THU 27 (7:30) Dom Henschke weather. Please ensure you BRIDGEWATER BELAIR bring plenty of water, hat and Bill Van Riet Bill Van Riet sunscreen. Bathers and towel may also be useful. Optional WED 29 meal available afterwards. N/A THREE BRIDGES N/A N/A WALK, PT ADEL Registrations open Wednesday 18 Julian Monfries December 2019.

Southern Flinders Ranges Wirrabara Forest Accommodation Self-contained cottages for up to 8 people. Welcoming Heysen Trail and Mawson Trail Adventurers.

M 0428 827 774 E [email protected] www.taralee.com.au Maintenance Report SUMMER 2019/20 • 10

Time was now getting on, so we farewelled Peter and headed to Hawker, our digs for the night, a pub meal and a beer.

HEADING FURTHER NORTH

On Friday, we went out to Mount Elm, via the Oaks, to say hello to long-time supporter of the Trail John Rowe. Here a sheet of iron had parted company with the roof and simply disappeared. Carl, our tallest volunteer, fitted the new tin and stabilised other sheets that were trying to make an escape. “ Another north/south through-walker came past as we were at work. She confessed to missing human Photos: Julian Monfries Installing a platform in Wilmington. company, which prompted Adrian to give her a hug. It was much appreciated, well Maintenance Report: Water at least by Adrian! Tanks, Platforms and Roof ” With that job complete, we were off Repairs in the Southern Flinders to Arkaba Station to meet the new managers, Charlie and Bradley. Julian Monfries reports FIXING THE TANK Both are strapping young men, who on a maintenance trip listened to our Red Range toilet options The tank was indeed foul. It was with interest. to the Southern Flinders disappointing to drain a tank that Ranges in September. was over 50 per cent full. As it was Then out to Red Range to check the draining, the team proceeded to dig toilet, which though not foul was full! the holes and install the platform. Exploratory digs suggested the arly in September a small ground may be suitable for a 10-metre crew, consisting of Carl The old tank was removed, but in sullage trench. Greenstreet, Adrian Rogers the process the rusted gutter and and Julian Monfries, downpipe were destroyed. That left a headed to the Southern new tank with no gutter or downpipe Flinders to undertake remedial to facilitate filling! Damn. Ework at Stony Creek, investigate a A through-walker happened by, possible placement for a platform at heading south. Unfortunately, he’d Wilmington, and repair the roof at missed the turn up towards Lavender Mount Elm Campsite. Peak. We put him right and relieved Thursday morning saw us at Cobbler him of the three litres of water he was Creek, where Colin Edwards and carrying in shopping bags; he had his team had loaded the trailer with heard the water at Stony Creek was the makings of two platforms and a bad. We promised to deliver it just off new water tank for Stony Creek. The Alligator Gorge Road after our work existing tank had been reported as was done. contaminated. With Peter Noll in tow, we then moved The team arrived at Wilmington, via on to survey a site on his land for the obligatory bakery, and met local another platform, choosing one that farmer and End-to-End 10 walker, Peter had a great view towards Horrocks Noll. They proceeded to Stony Creek Pass. Again, this went in pretty quickly campsite which lies at the northern end as the hole digging was relatively easy. The new tank at Stony Creek. of Mount Remarkable National Park. Maintenance Report SUMMER 2019/20 • 11

That task complete, we headed off to and managed to procure the readies Wilpena to investigate a realignment to redeem ourselves. Subsequently, of the Trail past the Information we managed to install a gutter and Centre and shop, rather than its downpipe on the tank, but missed current route circuiting around the the overnight rain. Unfortunately, campground, effectively missing the piece we were given free was both. Currently, there are marked only 75 per cent the length we trails linking the Information needed. Otherwise, we would have Centre and the Heysen Trail as it had to buy a three-metre length! exits Wilpena Pound, so it should be A broken stile near Horrocks Pass a no-brainer really. We simply await was inspected and repaired as best approval from the local managers. we could, considering the limited $ .95 Mayo Hut was then checked and materials available to us. 39 found to be in good condition and PLUS POSTAGE On our way south, we called the tanks about 50 per cent full. into Melrose and undertook a However, one is getting a bit old realignment of the Trail, now taking and rust is getting into the water. it past the large gum and the old That’s a job for another time. brewery. Additionally, at Kapunda BACK TO STONY CREEK we also did some tweaking to the The perfect Heysen Trail through the town. Saturday, we headed home, Trail Companion With all that done, the trailer disappointed at our inability to Guide & Christmas gift went back to Cobbler Creek, and complete the tank and gutter another successful trip was had Heysen Highlights installation at Stony Creek. So we thanks to Adrian Rogers and Order on the Friends’ website called into Wilmington Hardware Carl Greenstreet. heysentrail.asn.au/shop

ALPANA STATION EST. 1878

David and Sally Henery of Alpana Alpana Station offers: Station Blinman offer a friendly, • Quality self-contained guesthouses: TRANSPORT flexible and accredited transport • Alpana shearers quarters (up to service to the best end of the Heysen • 14 guests) & Nungawurtina Hut SERVICE AND Trail: Wilpena, Blinman, Parachilna • bush retreat (up to 6 guests) Gorge Trailhead, for individual walkers • Powered sites with ensuite bathroom ACCOMMODATION or groups. Transfers to the Mawson • facilities for caravans/campers Trail and beyond also available. • Scenic bush camping areas

ST NA AT A EST. 1878 I P O L N

A JUST 5KM FROM BLINMAN BOOKINGS ESSENTIAL T: 08 8648 4626 Contact David and Sally Henery E: [email protected] IN THE FLINDERS RANGES PO Box 11, Blinman SA 5730 WWW.ALPANASTATION.COM Article Title SUMMER 2019/20 • 12

TELL US A LITTLE BIT Meet the ABOUT YOURSELF First and foremost, I’m a hiker – I simply love the whole lifestyle. I newest thrive off the simplicity, freedom and tranquillity that only a prolonged period in the great Heysen outdoors can provide. My trekking adventures are supplemented by an appetite for Trail blogging, vlogging, photographing and travelling. My international hiking adventures have taken me Ambass- to Machu Picchu via the Salkantay Trek, above the clouds in the WHAT DOES A HEYSEN Swiss Alps, through Whistler’s TRAIL AMBASSADORSHIP ador mountainous snow in Canada INVOLVE? and, most recently, along the As an Ambassador for the Heysen, Camino Francés in northern Spain. I will continue to promote walking Through all of these experiences, the Trail through my blogging however, my heart remained in and hiking ventures, while South Australia. supporting the Friends in WHAT IS YOUR expanding interest, knowledge CONNECTION TO THE and exposure of the Trail. HEYSEN TRAIL? Meanwhile, a detailed description In August 2018, I began an adventure of my journey is available at that changed my life. The 59-day solo www.trekkingwest.com/heysen hike from Parachilna Gorge to Cape to inspire and encourage others Jervis challenged every fibre of my to walk the South Australian being, and has, ultimately, framed icon. For each of the 59 days, I my decision-making ever since. blogged, snapped, recorded and video journaled all aspects of my My Heysen Trail journey included journey – from the stunning rural drinking contaminated water, losing landscapes to the mental and my rain jacket, ruining a bunch of physical challenges that follow a technology, mangling my ankle, long-distance hiker. having my gear stolen and carrying an oafishly heavy bag for 1,200 SO, WHAT’S NEXT? kilometres. Though, through it all, I strongly believe in giving back my experience was unquestionably to the events that form your life’s the most rewarding of my life to date. journey; the Heysen Trail is right Over the two-month jaunt, I at the top of the list. So, on top strengthened my resilience, of the Ambassador’s position, In July, the Friends bolstered my physical conditioning, I am honoured to join FoHT as announced that Josh captured South Australia’s stunning Trailwalker’s new Editor in 2020. natural beauty, reconnected I have spent the last decade as West, AKA Trekking with lost mates, opened lines of a designer, writer and content West, had accepted communication for people suffering creator, and I look forward to the invitation to from mental health issues and, implementing my knowledge to the pièce de résistance, raised an help promote South Australia’s act as our Heysen expectation-shattering $11,939.03 foremost outdoor publication. Trail Ambassador. for the Black Dog Institute. Back in the wild, my short-term Meet our newest I only left civilisation for eight hiking goals include completing Ambassador and weeks, but that comparatively a long-distance trail in every learn about his short period triggered the most Australian state and territory, profound transformation of my ranging from WA’s forest-filled connection to life. I developed more in those Bibbulmun Track to NT’s arid the Trail. eight weeks than the previous 800. Larapinta Trail. Volunteer Profile SUMMER 2019/20 • 13 Volunteer Profile: Julie Testi

HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE INVOLVED WITH THE FRIENDS? WALK ON THE HEYSEN? I joined in April 2017. The first-year walks along the South Coast were all incredible and seeing WHY DID YOU INITIALLY GET dolphins is always a highlight. INVOLVED WITH THE FRIENDS? I went to the Hiking Expo at Belair in WHAT’S A FAVOURITE WALK April 2017 to find a hiking group so OTHER THAN ON THE HEYSEN that I could explore more of the tracks, TRAIL? instead of the ones I always walked Last year, I completed the Laugavegur around Morialta. At the Friends’ stand I Trail in Iceland, which had very “ learnt about the End-to-End, TrailStarter dramatic and diverse scenery. It was The walk up Balquhidder and TrailWalker programmes. My first a beautiful trail and I would highly was entertaining as people walk through Mt Lofty Botanic Gardens recommend it. grabbed the fence to pull and up the track to Mt Lofty was great. On this walk I met some of the walkers IS THERE SOMETHING YOU’D themselves up, or braved who were preparing for End-to-End NEVER BE WITHOUT WHEN the muddy area and 12 and a month later I was on my first YOU’RE WALKING? climbed to the top only to End-to-End walk with them. On my Iceland walk my luggage didn’t be greeted with winds that arrive, so after six days I realised how almost bowled us over. WHAT ARE SOME ACTIVITIES IN incredible merino is and now I always WHICH YOU’VE VOLUNTEERED wear merino. ” WITH THE FRIENDS? This year walking from Tanunda to Last year I did a few weekends away WHAT’S THE FUNNIEST MOMENT ON THE TRAIL? Kapunda we were hailed on in a field in Burra, working on stile repairs, post for several minutes, which was the first replacements and signage along the way. Walking Section 1 of the Willunga of three hail storms for the day. These were great weekends to walk the Basin Trail this year along Maslins hills of Burra and see what lies ahead Beach was quite a funny experience as WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE on the Trail, as well as learn from the 15 hikers walked past some locals. TOWN/LOCATION ALONG THE leaders of the maintenance weekends HEYSEN AND WHY? WHAT’S THE MOST who shared so much history of the area MEMORABLE EVENT/DAY We haven’t been through too many and information about the Trail. FOR YOU ON THE TRAIL? towns yet, but I’d have to say the At the end of the year I went to walk bakery lunch in Tanunda was a nice leader training and since then have led With End-to-End 12 we’ve had a few surprise and one that many of the Twilight and TrailStarter walks. character building days. E2E12’s took advantage of.

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Photo: Jon Holbrook

years, from Cape Jervis to Kapunda, are comfortably accommodated and no END-TO-END 9 done as day walks. One Sunday a month one is left behind.’ from May to November you drive to the Fifteen kilometres seemed to take a end of the day’s walk and catch a bus long time, and there were a lot of sore to the starting point. From Kapunda legs the next day. There were members A Walk in to Quorn the walks are then done on of our group who were struggling, and weekends, with two walks per weekend. who were wondering whether they And, finally, there are two weeks in the the Sun would make it. But as time went on, sixth year for immersing yourself in the the group changed as fitness levels beauty of the Flinders Ranges. Jon Holbrook describes improved. By the end, 30kms in a day how End-to-End 9 was done without drama. coalesced over six years “ HOW DID WE GET THERE? In the beginning, when we from a random group of Everyone joined End-to-End 9 in very walkers into a team. all met at Cape Jervis for the different ways. Many joined because a first walk in May 2014, there friend or spouse wanted to do the walk, were only a few people who and they came along to be supportive. ll great stories, whether knew each other. I joined because both my sister and classic literature or teen spouse were keen. We had members fiction, are ultimately join on a whim, and complete the Trail. about people. We talk ” Another was out for a walk with the long and loud about The married couples, of course, family on the day that registrations the beauties of the Heysen Trail and siblings, including two sets of twins, opened and got chatting with a couple Athe physical challenges of walking friends who joined together, and of people they happened to meet who its 1200kms. But ask anyone who is walkers from previous End-to-End mentioned End-to-End and that they walking with an End-to-End group and groups. Otherwise, we were all were about to register. Another was sooner or later the talk will turn to the complete strangers with walking as our talking to members of her swimming people they walk with. one shared interest. The ages ranged group and thought it sounded from teens to 70s, and the fitness levels So it was with End-to-End 9. From the interesting. There were experienced and walking experience could best be outside the group was just a random bushwalkers, occasional strollers, and described as varied. We set off on that collection of people from around the whole spectrum in between. first walk with many having no idea Adelaide and its environs who came what we were really getting into. together because walking the Trail LEADERS with an End-to-End group seemed a As one member put it, ‘I was initially Our leaders quickly set the tone for good idea in early 2014. Now that we’ve horrified to discover on Day 1 that End-to-End 9, which for the most finished, it’s clear that over the six the group had over 70 members. But part one could describe as relaxed. years the group coalesced into what I I quickly saw that there was plenty As someone put it to me when talking can only describe as a team. of room for us all as we stretched out about our leader Peter Clark: ‘Peter’s along the trail. With a group of that deceptively laid-back approach to For those who aren’t familiar with size all walking levels and paces are leading us disguised shrewd logistical End-to-End walks, the first two and a bit End-to-End 9 Season Report SUMMER 2019/20 • 15 management. Given that, and his ‘It wasn’t until we started the weekends each other’s company and got bored exceptional weather management, we away that the group stabilised into the with our usual companions, but I had have come to affectionately tolerate core 50 or so serious E2E9ers. And it long conversations with people I’d Peter’s interpretation of concepts such was then that friendships started to barely spoken to over the previous as ‘undulation’ and the length of ‘today’s branch out, particularly for those who five years, and I noticed other people walk’.’ (In case you’re wondering, had started on their own, and needed doing the same. to find others to share accommodation ‘undulation’ is anything that doesn’t The big downside for a large group with and car pool.’ have the word ‘mount’ in its name, and is finding some solitary time on the distance is a fluid concept that changes During the weeks away, the dynamics Trail. It’s a little easier at the back from week to week. As for the weather, changed again. I don’t know if it was with stops to take photos or visit the End-to-End 9 have been blessed by the because we spent all day, every day in bushes, but if you want a solo walk, sun god and will only bring rain the day after they have walked.)

SOCIAL CONTACT Photo: Mark Scicluna There are lots of pluses to a big group, mostly to do with social contact. This happens from the start. ‘As one member said, ‘I have enjoyed the ebb and flow of contact with different people during each walk; the various conversations that I’ve joined in, moved along and left aside as I’ve walked my Heysen Trail. I’ve also enjoyed long stretches of solitary and silent walking, knowing the group was not far away if I needed help or wanted company. I’ve been inspired by the physical feats of other walkers, recoveries from illness and injury, and intrepid travels among the group.’ “ Whether it’s through car- pooling to day walks, visits to the pub/winery/brewery End-to-End 9 Walkers afterwards, community On 17 August 2019, End-to-End 9 completed their six-year northward dinners and shared journey to Parachilna Gorge. Thanks to walk leaders, your efforts are accommodation on weekends greatly appreciated by those who have followed you. away, or shared training regimes, the social cohesion Aled Jones Felicity Patricia Pigou The following Alison Swart Bonkowski Paul van Riet End-to-End of the group among the 9 walkers Bev Skeen Graham Jobling Peter Cronin regulars is huge. Although completed the Ian Norman this didn’t start straight away. Bill van Riet Robyn Coburn Trail for the Bronwyn Jon Holbrook Sandra Purdon second time and received ‘E2E ” Glassmann Julie Tonkin Shauna Gill ‘On our first walk I was talking with a guy Done Again’ Carol Stevens Kellie Holbrook Stephanie from End-to-End 4. He said it wouldn’t awards: Christine Kerry Skinner Lewis be until we started the weekends away Catherine Tremain that we would start getting to know the Linda Nimmo Steph Thomson Anderson David rest of the group. At the time I didn’t Louise McNeil Steve Kirkbride Dávid Szilassy believe him, but it was absolutely true. Andrewartha Lynne Norman Vicki Stewart Peter Clark In the first three years there were so Denise Ryan Mal Cockburn Victoria many random comings-and-goings that Edward Marg Donohue Szilassy it was hard to know who was part of Bonkowski the core End-to-End 9 group, so I stuck Mark Scicluna Yang Kuai predominantly with who I knew.’ End-to-End 9 Season Report SUMMER 2019/20 • 16 an End-to-End group is not for you. However, there were some serious fabulous dinners prepared by amazing However, even in a group this size moments. Thankfully, only one broken community groups in small towns. you learn more about yourself; what bone (a foot, which due to where we you’re capable of – both physically and were could be walked out to the bus). mentally – and how hard you can push heat exhaustion on one day (where, “ yourself. It also amazed me how long it fortunately, we had good access to the We saw parts of this amazing took to learn, and remember, all their support car) and members of the group country that most people names. I finally got everyone by the getting ill (both physically and mentally) don’t get to see. We stumbled sixth year! and having other life issues. We finished on wildlife and flora almost one day’s walk in the dark, though the every day. We met the beautiful sunset and the gorgeous walk occasional through-walker “ up Tourilie Gorge in the twilight is the Regardless of how you’re part that I remember of that day. (and runner). And, ultimately, feeling, and how you’re we finished. These trying times were part of walking, the most welcome building the social cohesion of the ” social contact in End-to-End group. Groups, like people, are 9 was our fabulous support strengthened in adversity. Would I recommend an End-to-End walk? Without hesitation. crew of Mike and Sheila. It On the lighter side, we had two group was always great to see their members move in together (that’s If you’re not sure, try it anyway. If you white car up ahead and know really building the social cohesion). don’t like it, you don’t have to finish. that there’d be water, a big We drank port at the top of Mt Bryan But give yourself some time to get to smile and Sheila with her box (it was kind of the halfway mark). know your capabilities and the group around you. of sugar and food colouring. We tried as many pubs as we could find (one member has compiled a ” list, and it’s quite long). We had some End-to-End 15 Registration SUMMER 2019/20 • 17

A Warm Welcome to our New Members Register The President and the Council would like to extend a warm for 2020 welcome to the following 45 members who have joined the Friends since the last edition Wishing to walk of Trailwalker, and urge them to become involved in the the Heysen Andrea Gillin, Mike Joyce, Leanne and voluntary, walking and social Philip Bell. aspects of the organisation. Trail in 2020? The group will commence the first walk at Cape Jervis on Saturday 9 May 2020. ach year a new group of Mac Aird Warren Harch Registration and walk details can be walkers, called End- Christina Victoria Hart found on the Heysen website. to-End’ers, commence Angus Heidi Hill their six-year journey For those unsure of their fitness level or Robert Angus Peter Ilee of 1200kms from Cape have not walked in a group environment Jervis on the Fleurieu Peninsula to before, a training walk of TrailWalker Carol Baker Michael Jobe EParachilna Gorge in the Flinders level will be held on Saturday 18 April Paul Baker Joanna Lamek Rangers. Next year’s 2020 group will 2020, with details provided to you once Carolyn Julia Manning be known as End-to-End 15. you register for the first walk, Cape Jervis Bartholomew to Cobbler Hill, on 9 May. Leila McEgan The group leaders will be Mark Liam Bennett Robert Menz Curtis (also group coordinator), We look forward to seeing you on Charles the Trail. Ethan Audrey Sclanders, Maria Bootle, Bowden Milliken-Ilee Anna Brook Patricia Darren Burns Montanaro GER EN T Suzanne S R Ea Mulligan S A

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Rosalie Nolan I Cunningham- C Transport & Removals Reid James Noonan Andrew Explore the Mawson & Heysen Trails Dixon Trish Peier through the Flinders Ranges, or Shelley Fiona Sanders discover the Fleurieu Peninsula Forester Don Sinnott Julie Gore Wendy Regular bus services connecting Livy Gore Sinnott Adelaide and Copley, and the towns in-between. Passenger/freight Abby Deb Spiden timetables available online. Gransden Kathryn Rowen Tebbutt Gransden Molly Wakely Jodie Jackie 08 8552 4000 Hamilton Westover [email protected] Caroline Jon Westover www.genesistransport.com.au Harch Pamela Wood ON THE MOVE? RING US FOR A REMOVAL QUOTE End-to-End 11 Season Report SUMMER 2019/20 • 18

alkers on End-to- End 11 come in many guises. We are three women – nine children between us – with jobs and houses to Wrun. Blessed? Yes. Busy? Better believe it. But for seven or so times a year we race through the preceding week with one glorious weekend in our sights. Where the pace “ changes from the Hiking Gear? Check. frenetic scrabble Food & water? Check. of ‘juggling it all’ to Meals prepared for a rhythmic stride where our lungs are the family? Check. filled to capacity, Kids weekend activities where the sounds sorted? Check. of nature and the Hiking Boots? Dammit! quiet, background Back for the boots. chatter of fellow walkers brings ” relief, grounding and an opportunity to recharge. So, what did our fourth year on the Trail bring? This year we started at the end! Well, that is to say we came out of World’s End. Can you think of a more dramatic name for a place? It was everything we expected: DRY AND BROWN. A tough act to follow after the rolling, green stretches of the previous year. But don’t despair, what we discovered was a vastness of space, where the sky became a prominent canvas with changing colours and clouds of every description. With all distraction gone from underfoot, that brown colour turned into a multitude END-TO-END 11 of shades and textures. We walked the Burra Hills and we faced and conquered Mt Bryan. For those Beginning of you who have come before us, you know. For those yet to come, we will tell you that when they say ‘the view is at the End worth the climb’, they are telling the absolute truth. But you will earn it! Tammy Main, Monique We have always known that we were on Percy and Julie to a good thing with our volunteer walk Signoriello explain leaders. While us Mums debrief on what a weekend away the frantic month just gone, we did so knowing the leaders were checking the walking with End-to- maps, looking for sign posts, carrying End 11 means for busy the first-aid kit; that a support car was Mums with jobs and ready to whisk us away if needed and, of course, someone was carrying that all Photo: Tammy Main houses to run. important bag of lollies. But Mt Bryan, on a windy day, is a test and our leaders walked beside us for morale and End-to-End 11 Season Report SUMMER 2019/20 • 19 physical assistance even when they were beautiful temperate weather with the we were ensconced in green fields once hurting themselves. It was humbling. occasional thunderstorm looming more. We remember this clearly as we in the distance just to quicken our scan through the photographs. Many We went on to stroll along country pace on the homeward stretch. She thanks go to our visual storytellers for backroads, atop a ridge or two with was perhaps quietly their generosity in wind farms in the distance – one special chuckling, as Year 4 sharing. It has been morning with only the tops peeking marks the passing of a pleasure to watch through the low-lying cloud – past a the mid-way point. these people develop roughly 150-year-old stone wall, which We celebrated this in skill and artistry. we were careful not to lean on. For twice: once passing Well, all except lunch that day, we were graced with the halfway mark in Martin, who had that a crop-duster aerial display for our physical kilometres from the beginning. entertainment. We then headed down and a second time To Paul, Helen, along cement water pipes and irrigation a month later when Cindy, Neil, Rosie, trenches to Bundaleer Reservoir and we stood on the Glenn, Rhonda and ended the year with our feet in the geographical Martin, thank you Southern Flinders Ranges at Wirrabara mid-point. for the memories! with a taste of the year to come. The year came with One last thank The year saw the leaders coming and a wealth of historical you goes to our going for various reasons. For goodness and geographical ‘Action Man’ Ross, sakes, it’s a six-year labour of love. An Photo: Tammy Main learning. Maybe it who helped E2E11 amazing level of commitment from them. was being near Burra members with that We discovered that their presence had township with its busted tyre, the flat become so familiar that their absence well-developed story. Perhaps because battery, the sore muscles, the empty was deeply felt. How we missed the we got our hands on Heysen Highlights water bags, the stuck toilet door … banter between John and Helen; John’s by Simon Cameron. It could also have we don’t think there is anything he pacing up and down the line, always been the local landowners who took the couldn’t deal with. making eye contact and checking. The time to share their town histories and quiet, respectful assurance of Andrew. Sunday afternoons roll around too the local walkers who joined us on our However, don’t think for a moment we quickly and us girls barrel back into hikes. Whatever combination, it added were deserted. In their place sprung our car, look longingly at the retirees to the walk experience immensely. borrowed leaders with stories of their who settle in for another night away, own and, from within the group, new You see new faces as casual walkers and head back refreshed to our normal personalities emerged as individuals join for a day or two, but there was lives. But let us leave you with a few raised their hands to contribute. By no one of note for us. He had started the fourth-year tips: means the only one but, in particular, walk many years before, but stopped or Chris, we thank you. And to our leaders, ‘paused’, as life sometimes dictates. His John, Helen, Dom, Marlene and story resonated with us because at the Best place to stay in Burra – Hillside Andrew, much appreciation. beginning of the year we farewelled a Cottage (burracottage.com.au). Highly friend whose path took her in another To understand a journey, you must recommended is the hot bathtub in the direction. To her we say, it is here understand the context in which the tin water tank complete with fairy lights! waiting for when the time is right. events unfold. And on the Trail context Best place to stop for coffee on the translates to mean Mother Nature. We did eventually turn back over the way home – Tarlee Coffee Stop (look She was kind to us this year. Mostly, Goyder Line and, as winter progressed, for the red sign). Best place to eat – So sorry! Our own Vas and Bruce Dolman provided the best dinner of the year. Made the Gladstone Goal weekend even more memorable and a little less spooky! But in second place, the Laura Hotel did a fine job, having only that week opened their refurbished dining room.

Above: Tom taking a contemplative moment after a long skyward stroll.

Main: Transversing the Burra hills.

Photo: Paul Frost Left: The group huddles together at the blustery Mt Bryan summit. Article Title SUMMER 2019/20 • 20

The sight of 50 people walking towards them started to freak out the horses. Adam instructed us to quickly move to one side and walk in single file so as not to create too much distraction. Pewsey Vale to Tanunda on Sunday 21st July began as a cold misty END-TO-END 12 morning following the ridge line of the hills of the Barossa, close to the Kaiserstuhl Conservation Park. Off to our left we noted the famous ‘It looked like a set 600-metre peak of Kaiserstuhl itself, although it was shrouded in cloud for some movie’ during our walk. What was to follow as we descended from the hills was the truly breathtaking expanse of the Barossa Valley. This time of the year everything is a vibrant green, often challenging terrain, cold and Allan Kull describes while the vines lay dormant waiting intermittent rain, magnificent scenery, for spring to bring them alive for yet what it was like to walk military-style organisation and, above another vintage. Lunch was in the for the first time with all else, a sense of camaraderie. main street of Tanunda, where great Complete strangers, recognising that I the Friends on an End- coffee was an unusual adjunct to was new, would come up and walk with our trail mix of sandwiches and to-End 12 hike. me for a while, have a general chat and energy bars. give me some advice, if needed. rankly, I had no idea what to expect on my first Following this day a few things walk with the Friends of became obvious. I needed to review the Heysen Trail. It was my ‘battle dress’: what I was wearing 19th May and the walk and what I was putting into my pack. End-to-End was starting from Cudlee Creek. I And if I could, I should take out shares Fremember being surprised when I in the Osprey backpack business, Awards arrived at the designated location – because they clearly had the numbers, Congratulations to the some dirt road in the Adelaide Hills especially when all the lime green rain following walkers who – to find a large white bus, dozens of covers were deployed. received End-to-End awards for completing walkers either arriving in cars, milling Fortunately, the next two End-to-End 12 the Trail over the period about talking or ducking off into the walks – Nugget Rd to Mt Crawford on July to October 2019 bush for their comfort stops. It looked 16th June and Mt. Crawford to Pewsey like a set for some movie with all the Vale on 30th June – were less challenging Donna Triggs assortments of hiking attire, organisers as far as the topography was concerned, Julie Hammond checking registrations before we all and the weather was kinder, too. The embarked on the bus and headed off to scenery, nonetheless, was beautiful. Barry Cole the walk’s beginning. Sheryl Cole Once at Cudlee Creek, our walk leader “ Lorraine Gubbins Adam quickly went about making Graham Sando announcements and outlining the day’s There is something almost walk programme. There was a group European about walking Christine Malpas photo of all 50 walkers, and off we went. through pine forests; the Richard Triggs That initial hill certainly tested me as smell, the cool atmosphere, Dennis Ryan I only had one walking stick, thinking its unmistakable. John Herriot that even that wouldn’t be required. Jonathan Vallario But I soon learnt that I was in the ” Justin Vallario company of seasoned and experienced It provides an interesting contrast walkers, many of whom had been to the rolling hills and paddocks we Douglas Dunsmore walking together as a group for three encountered earlier. While walking up Mike Phillips years, and I needed to step up fast. a grassy fire break between two large Richard Pash stands of pine forest, three horse riders That day was indeed a great Matthew Dodd introduction for me as it combined approached us in the opposite direction. End-to-End 12 Season Report SUMMER 2019/20 • 21

The final sector of this particular walk Keeping led us only one block away from my PARACHILNA track of GORGE TRAILHEAD own home in Marananga. End-to-End WILPENA POUND The Tanunda to Kapunda sector on Groups Sunday 18th August was probably the most memorable for me and, I suspect, for a few others. That day the gods E2E 9 decided to throw everything at us – HAWKER Finished at cold temperatures, high winds, rain Parachilna Gorge and, yes, hail. We walked single file in August through numerous crops and fields, through creek beds and cuttings. QUORN Miraculously, lunch was during a break E2E 10 in the rain as if Adam had commanded Dutchman’s Stern it. Then we emerged on the fringes of Conservation Park MELROSE Kapunda, past the old copper mine and welded-horse statue. At this point E2E 11 I’m sure Adam felt we had not walked WIRRABARA enough, so we proceeded to take a zig- Wirrabara zag route back to our cars! CRYSTAL BROOK For me, the last End-to-End 12 for the HALLETT E2E 12 2019 walk calendar was the first of our SPALDING weekend away walks: from Kapunda to Webb Gap BURRA Hamilton then to Peters Hill. Although not particularly challenging walks, the highlight was the social events that occurred in the evening of the two MARRABEL days. These were well organised and E2E 13 gave everybody a chance to really get KAPUNDA to know each other. Nugget Road, TANUNDA beyond Cudlee Reflecting back on the past few Creek months, I am so glad I have become part of this great organisation. The MT LOFTY End-to-End walks have provided E2E 14 HAHNDORF me with considerable respite from MYLOR life’s challenges, and I have been so Myponga impressed with the professionalism that MOUNT COMPASS has been displayed by the leadership CAPE JERVIS team, the great support team of each TRAILHEAD VICTOR HARBOR E2E 15 walk, the social committee and the companionship of my fellow walkers. Begin at Cape Can’t wait till 2020 to start it again. Jervis in 2020

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Article Title SUMMER 2019/20 • 22

Photos: Justin Vallario Baptism By Fire – My Heysen Trail Experience

JONATHAN VALLARIO

Jonathan Vallario Prior to our decision to walk the It was 3:37pm on 5 July 2019 that we Heysen, Justin and I were preparing took our first steps past the starting describes how walking for a cross-country four-wheel drive arrow, leading down from Cape Jervis the Heysen Trail in 53 trek to Broome and back, replicating Caravan Park. a similar trip we had done to Perth in days would beat him We didn’t end up finishing that first 2017. What changed my mind was the day until close to 10pm. My unfit down with numbing film ‘Wild’ where Reece Witherspoon and unprepared body struggled over pain and tear him up plays a woman who hikes the Pacific Cobbler Hill, and ascending the 285 Crest Trail. I was so inspired I looked with raw beauty. metre steep slope in darkness by dim up ‘long hike Australia’. Upon finding headlight, with only one trekking pole, the Heysen Trail, I sent the link to have a confession to make: the made me repeatedly question why I Justin to see if he wanted to do it. ‘It’s Heysen Trail was my first multi- was doing this and if I had the resolve 60 days!’ he replied. I responded, day hike. I had done a few day to continue. ‘yeah and…?’ hikes in the Blue Mountains The only thing getting me through After watching a few YouTube videos of and Central Coast NSW, but that first night were the trail markers what to bring and how to prepare, I felt nothing even close to the Heysen Trail. – those red reflective beacons that I IMy younger brother Justin had never I was ready. ‘It couldn’t be that hard,’ I came to call ‘Where’s Wallys’ – which thought. even hiked before, so to say we were otherwise we both would’ve been lost ‘pretty green’ is an understatement. How wrong I was. to the trail. Baptism by Fire SUMMER 2019/20 • 23

It was our baptism by fire. After that initial day my body was Main: A gentle aching, and all the usual bodily alarm sunrise stroll bells were blaring. I was 93 kilos, toward Kuitpo suffered a subluxation or partial Hall on Day 9. dislocation of my left knee only a few months earlier and a weak left shoulder that has dislocated at least ten times. I was told the first week is always the Right: The relief hardest, before your body starts to when you finally adjust. When things got tough, Justin find your way would push me by shouting, ‘if you back to the trail. can beat Cobbler Hill, you can beat this!’ Those words helped immensely. Nothing prepares you for the trek across beaches with one pole and an oversized Below: Compare pack, immediately followed with Shea- the pair. Brothers Oak Hill. Thanks, little brother. Jonathan and Justin on Day 1 at Cape Jervis compared “ to Day 53 at From the beginning, it was Parachilna Gorge. nourishment to the senses: cool seaside air you could taste and eyes filled with I could totally understand why he of memory on my phone trying to picturesque beaches. chose this beautiful part of the capture the beauty. This was a definite And the hike was still only world to paint. highlight, along with the locals at Spalding pub, especially Shauna, who in its infancy. As the days went on and the were absolute legends. dehydrated meals became a chore to ” eat, the dazzling scenery only got Meeting people on the trail is another more surreal. experience that makes the Heysen so Traversing through the southern unforgettable. Although I only met section of the trail was truly The wind turbine sections two other end-to-end hikers (Ken and memorable, akin to walking through between Hallett and Spalding were Jasper), a few groups and a handful a Heysen painting in virtual reality. breathtaking. I must have run out of weekend hikers, everybody was so lovely, giving us the time of day to listen and have a real conversation. A nice farmer even let us stay in his camping shed when we were in need of shelter as night fell. These true angels helped restore my faith in humanity. The hiking community is full of the most honest, friendly and genuine people. Even on social media, they really listen to each other’s questions and problems without judgement, and would share huts and campgrounds as if you were family. They really are just beautiful humans. Sometimes the trail would beat me down with its numbingly cold nights, horizontal rain, gale-force winds, the unrelenting wet grass soaking my socks and shoes, and the slopes ruining my knees. Sometimes, I had to turn my mind off to get through the flurry of pain hitting me. Baptism by Fire SUMMER 2019/20 • 24

They were messages from my body’s voice that had to be ignored. I’m not going to sugar coat the experience as it was bloody tough. However, I knew the pain was temporary and there’s no better feeling than seeing the roof of a hut pop into view after a hard slog of a day. The view of Port Pirie as I climbed Mount Brown actually made me tear up with its raw beauty. The vast wonder of the Flinders as I ascended Mount Arden also struck a chord. There are many things that can make a grown man cry on the Heysen, Views don’t come much whether it’s a sharp rock under your better than the Newland worn out boots or the sight of a trail Head Conservation Park. marker after being lost for hours. Justin took amazing photos throughout the entire trek, and together we are After 53 days – ten days ahead of what going to bring them together to create was initially planned – we crossed the a book explaining the trek and our Jonathan Vallario grew finish line together hand in hand at adventure in detail, including all the up in Sydney and now 1:40pm. This was after approximately gear we used and tips for future Heysen lives in the Sydney 1.6 million steps and getting lost Trail hikers so they don’t make the same suburb of Belmore with hours before the end as we ended up mistakes we did. You can keep updated his girlfriend Alison. on the wrong side of the ABC Ranges. using Instagram: @jonoval and I suppose we got a little too excited as Jon is a licensed electrician @skyvision_productions for Justin. the end was nigh. and the frontman for the band I hope one day that those reading Hornette. He decided to walk this can experience the Heysen Trail the Heysen Trail to get away “ in its entirety. Nothing compares to from playing video games such Hiking the Heysen was an experiencing it for yourself in your as Rocket League and Fortnite. unforgettable experience own worn-out boots. and has made me really appreciate the simple

things in life, such as THE STABLES water, shelter, warmth, A UNIQUE BURRA EXPERIENCE friendship, toilet paper and a bin. METRES FROM THE TRAIL

” • Bunks & hayloft bedding • Sleeps up to six Even though it is a vast distance, • Short walk to pub, markets • Log fire & wood oven breaking it down day-by-day, section- by-section, makes it mentally easier • Minimal electricity and tv • Cast iron hip bath to conquer. Each step was a step closer and each kilometre done today was a kilometre done tomorrow was my trek mantra. I am so grateful for the countless hours that the volunteers put in to install and maintain all the trail markers, huts, sheds, rainwater tanks, shelters, and the Heysen Trail itself. From the bottom of my heart, I can’t thank you enough. Part of $ I wrote a journal as an in-depth record Olive Grove 27 of the entire day. It took me at least Retreat T: 08 8892 2679 M: 0447 445 506 P/ PERSON Accom. E: [email protected] an hour each day, often feeling like a (Linen Extra) burden when all you want to do is sleep. SUMMER 2019/20 • 25

Ahead is the Onkaparinga Valley Rail Bridge which spans the Onkaparinga River, wetland and estuary. The bridge is 1.2kms long and is one of Australia’s longest rail bridges. Shortly after passing underneath the bridge Submit your there is a small loop walk LIZ ROGERS known as the Noarlunga favourite Downs Wetland Trail. short walks to This is well worth the Editor exploring as there is art Favourite work by Paul Herzich with information about the river and wetlands. Short Walks The loop takes us back onto River Road by the kayak launch and over Port Noarlunga Beach to a boardwalk until we reach Perry’s Onkaparinga Recreation Park. Bend. Here we take a right to join the Wetlands Loop trail (4.5k). This takes Photos: Marie Hume us alongside the river on one side and freshwater ponds on the other. We have walked this trail after floods when there is lots of water his is a relatively short on our right, scrub, a golf driving range in the ponds and alongside the trail, walk – around 10kms and the Sea Scout Hall. but in the summer the ponds dry out return. It has no physical and vegetation grows where water challenges, but lots of has been. opportunities to see birds, “ lizards, plants, etc. and to learn about The name ‘Onkaparinga’ When we reach the old rail bridge, T before Old Noarlunga, we take a left local history. comes from turn that takes us up a slight rise We park our car at the Port Noarlunga ‘Ngangkiparringga’, an Aboriginal word meaning overlooking the freshwater ponds Beach car park and make our way along now on our left. Gawler Street. On a Sunday morning ‘The Women’s River’. As we dip down back to the river the many cafes are full to overflowing ONKAPARINGA PLAQUE with people enjoying the sunshine and we take the option of walking on a Sunday morning breakfast. ” significant boardwalk over reed beds to the sound of frogs and cicadas. The walk takes us across Gawler Street After Old Honeypot Road it becomes We then head along the path where and onto River Road. From Gawler tricky as there is no footpath and we have we came in, through the picnic area Street to Old Honeypot Road we are to walk on the grass verge making sure and back along River Road into Port able to walk on a footpath with housing we leave plenty of room for numerous Noarlunga where we enjoy lunch at and a retirement home on our left and, cars that come along quite frequently. one of the aforementioned cafes.

Accommodation for the Heysen & Mawson Trails, CURNOWS HUT Mid-North SA 5kms from Bundaleer Reservoir 17kms from Spalding

HEYSEN TRAIL • Comfortable Homestead lodgings, BUNDALEER • continental breakfast included WEIR CAMPSITE • Evening meals and trail transfers 1029 Pipeline Rd, Gulnare

• available (pre booking required) BUNDALEER Harry & Sandy Osborn RESERVOIR • Powered & non powered sites for 0417 813 095 • self contained caravans [email protected] SPALDING • Tent Sites also available. www.ossiesfarmstay.com

Article Title SUMMER 2019/20 • 26

Photos: Melanie Sjoberg ‘Many people underestimate WA’s Cape to Cape Track’ MELANIE SJOBERG & DANIEL JARDINE

Melanie Sjoberg shorter loop walks, access points THE DAY THAT GIFTED A and accommodation bases. CHALLENGE and Daniel Jardine (See www.capetocapetrack.com.au) recommend a plan Late rain was predicted for Day 2 on In late August, we left the car with a the hike. We arose before sunrise, for tackling the Cape local driver who supports walkers in draped jackets over our shoulders to Cape Track in the between tours around the flourishing against the cold air while preparing Margaret River region wine region. His prescient words that ourselves with coffee. This served us “… many people underestimate the well as a short stretch of tea tree led of Western Australia. Cape to Cape…” were to reverberate to Smiths Beach, proffering more soft some days later. sand, rock scrambling and wading nticipating a challenge, The ‘hard trail’ descriptor defies through Gunyulgup Brook, while we researched a belief as the northern entry at Cape watching for wild waves that ultimately through-hike on the Naturaliste commences with a few drenched Daniel’s boots. The coloured Cape to Cape Track kilometres of compressed gravel rock formations looked spectacular, (CtC) that follows the path flourishing with wildflowers and but laborious as we scrambled over Indian Ocean coastline for 125kms, allowing general access. It transforms and around them with our heavy Aand approximately seven days, from packs, while glancing up to the as you move away from the tourist area Cape Naturaliste to Cape Leeuwin into rocky granite outcrops and heath- gradually greying sky. Lighthouses. topped cliffs. We found some reprieve along wide Similar to the Heysen Trail, the On any coastal walk you expect some 4WD tracks that were relatively firm Cape to Cape has a Friends’ group beach, so it wasn’t long before we underfoot. Here the guidebook that maintains the trail, produces a found the first at Kadjinup, offering became a critical adjunct to maps guidebook, maps and a website. This deep soft sand followed by a steep due to a lack of signage where several helped us plot the route, camping dune climb seriously testing the calf tracks crisscrossed. Indijup and options, transport and a secure place muscles. We didn’t realise then, but Quininup Beaches delivered another to leave our car and camper-trailer. this proved to be a taster for the many brook, useful for a freshwater top up, For day-walkers, there’s also a guide to beaches ahead. before yet another huge sandhill climb to the clifftops. WA’s Cape to Cape Track SUMMER 2019/20 • 27

As the sky grew bleaker, we donned jackets and pants just before the heavy drops landed. The final three Trail marker kilometre stretch through tea tree was sitting on granite a determined effort as the day pushed rocks near into an energy-draining 10 hours. Cape Lacking options, we found a new use for Leeuwin. the toilet as a clothes drying room while we set up camp for a well-deserved meal.

PLAN B Sensible hikers usually have a plan B! After the hard slog in wet gear we decided to shorten our next day so the tent could dry out. Heartened by a dramatic coastline and crashing waves we descended yet another brook Cape Leeuwin crossing on Wilyabrup Beach. Melanie Lighthouse. renamed this ‘why-are-we-here beach’ as we removed boots, rolled up pants and waded knee-deep across fast flowing currents only to suffer the indignity of sliding and sinking in quicksand-like edges. understood was par for the course: interspersed with an occasional easy- another soft dune shuffle. going stretch through woodland. “ A final section of rock scrambling By Day 6 the driver’s warning about Our first two kilometres had took us around to Gracetown Beach underestimating the track was ringing taken well over an hour. with a delightful general store serving true. We agreed we’d had enough coffee and home-made pies. We beaches so organised transport after ” treated ourselves to a cabin at the local 14kms of woodland, rather than caravan park – with a complimentary punish ourselves with yet another After struggling up another dune – with pick up/drop off – all of which was 6.5kms of soft sand and dune along a short reward of fabulous views from useful for drying out the gear and Burnurup Beach, as well as resisting the clifftop – we confronted yet another relaxing under a warm shower. the temptation of 12.5kms of beach climb on extremely steep stairs, which walking on Day 7. the guidebook suggested was a big MORE BEACHES, MORE DUNES improvement! We wondered how hard AND A BIT OF FOREST Instead, after a decent pub meal the old route must have appeared. overnight in Augusta, we sampled the The next few days followed much the final stretch of the Cape to Cape on a What goes up must come down. same pattern of long soft beaches, short walk north from Cape Leeuwin After following sandy steps down to steep dunes, great clifftop views Lighthouse and a drive to Hamlyn Bay Cullen Beach, we faced what we now and granite or limestone scrambles, for a more comfortable beach walk.

MT BROWN ACCOMMODATION Indulge yourself on the trail... Stay at ‘The Carriage’ at Catninga

• VINTAGE RAIL CARRIAGE • ENSUITE, QUEEN BED, ELECTRIC BLANKET Stay on the trail at ‘Catninga Hut’ • CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST • KITCHENETTE • 4 CAMP BEDS • WOOD STOVE • GAS BBQ • CAMP SHOWER • FLUSH TOILET

T: 0458 436 363 or 08 8643 6327 E: [email protected] For more information: www.catninga.com WA’s Cape to Cape Track SUMMER 2019/20 • 28

HANDY HINTS soft dunes down to an excellent sturdy bridge across Boodjibup Brook, all In addition to the map, the guidebook of which was carried in by hand over is essential as it contains handy hints several kilometres. about points where the track is unclear, or where to look out for beach exits The track is enjoyable. Despite the soft covered by sand movement. It also sandy beaches, it is offset by stunning has a summary of wildflowers, birds views, the constant sound of crashing and animals you may encounter. waves and, for us, the challenge of adapting to varying conditions. We also We thought the distances between appreciated several points along the hiking campsites were not really track that explained local Aboriginal convenient, given the challenging connection to country, stories and terrain, but breaking up the days interpretation. staying at towns or caravan parks along the coast would help. Contos National Park campsite has Western Australia’s Cape to Cape excellent facilities and several toilets. Track is located in the state’s Smaller tent areas are separated from south-west and runs between Cape caravan/trailer sites and each have Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin for extensive shelters for cooking with gas approximately 125 kilometres. provided, stainless steel benches and The trail is open year-round, however pumped water from tanks. spring and autumn are the best times Like trail volunteers everywhere, the of year to walk, while a north-south Friends of CtC put in a huge effort to direction is also recommended. maintain the track. Volunteers have capetocapetrack.com.au undertaken particularly serious work to install 300 pine steps shoring up

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N El Caminito del Rey SUMMER 2019/20 • 29 El Caminito del Rey Paul and Pauleen Bond introduce us to ‘The Kings Little Pathway’, once the world’s most dangerous walk.

uring a recent trip to the Adalucia region of Spain, we experienced the thrill of walking along Caminito del Rey. DSituated some 60kms north west of Málaga, the path to El Chorro gorge is mainly a timber boardwalk on steel supports attached to the vertical walls of a gorge, a hundred metres above the river. The path was built to provide access between the two precipices for construction and maintenance workers on the hydroelectric scheme at the downstream end of the gorge. The original path was built between 1901 and 1905 and used to transport material and people between two power stations either side of the El Chorro gorge. Its name, ‘The Kings Little Pathway’, resulted from King Alfonso XIII using the path when officially opening the hydroelectric scheme in 1921. Osprey Sirrus 24 Photos: Paul Bond By 1999, due to a lack of maintenance, the pathway became known as the Day Pack Women's most dangerous walk in the world. Five fatalities in 1999 and 2000 caused the It’s like carrying a breeze path to be closed. After four years of on your back. extensive repairs and renovations, it re-opened in 2015. This incredibly ventilated pack The result is a very safe walk that is features panel-loading convenience, rather intimidating for those who don’t organisation for demanding day have a head for heights. However, hikes and adjustable torso lengths even the most timid can enjoy the spectacular views afforded from this to a women's specific fit. amazing construction. After a pleasant and very scenic 3km FOR T AL walk along a path through the lower UN L O F part of the gorge, we came to the start C R S I 228 Rundle St. Adelaide I E of the Caminito where we were fitted

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length of the trail to 130km. Along the way it makes extensive use of roadways, road reserves and existing trails such as the Sea to Vines, Heysen and Kidman Trails. “ The Friends of the Willunga Basin Trail Willunga Basin first wins WalkingSA proposed a trail in 2012. ” recognition award The Willunga Basin Trail Inc, which formed out of this Friends group, Bill Vine explains why Friends of the consists of around 60 members and, Willunga Basin Trail were recognised since February 2019, they have been with WalkingSA special recognition tirelessly working on the trail three awards this year. days each week to complete it. The trail development consists of three stages, the first of which the group hoped to have completed by the end of September 2019. The delaide has a new The trail itself consists of an inner loop remaining two will be completed walking trail and even of 80km, running up the coast from in eight-month periods with full before its official opening Sellicks to Moana, inland to McLaren completion expected in December in September the Friends Vale, up to the Onkaparinga National 2020. A grant of $78,000 from the of the Heysen Trail had Park, across to McLaren Flat and State government will assist them walked two thirds of it! The Willunga Willunga, and return to Sellicks via complete the trail infrastructure, ABasin Trail is a gem of a trail providing the ridge top. An outer loop from the including some eye-catching trail a unique view to walkers of coast, Onkaparinga National Park to Kangarilla markers and funky ladder stiles. vineyards, farmland and natural bush. and onto McLaren Flat extends the total In addition to the grant, the group has been further recognised by WalkingSA with special recognition awards, not only to the group itself Trailwalker but also individual awards to two Photo occasional guides on the trail, Competition founding members Chris Davies and Zara Lupton. With only 40kms of the trail marked so far, Chris and Zara’s help has been invaluable and their knowledge of the history of the region provides added insight. Ably lead by Daniel Jardine and Melanie Sjoberg, about 16 walkers attempted to complete the entire trail across six Saturdays over the walking season. Some of the unmarked sections of the trail It’s not hard to We invite our readers to proved challenging, but that added submit photos of themselves or to the fun with the walks providing a work out where this others reading Trailwalker in pioneering flavour to the navigation, a issue’s winner, Adam interesting or unusual locations. challenge Daniel was more than up to. Matthews, decided to Please send your high-resolution Unfortunately, unseasonably warm stop and read his latest photos to The Editor at weather at the beginning of October [email protected] caused the cancellation of the fifth issue of Trailwalker. planned walk leaving us something new to look forward to next year. BuildingBuilding friendships, friendships, confidence confidence & camaraderie& camaraderie amongamong women women as aswe we explore explore the the world world together. together.

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Image: Maggie Moy FRIENDS OF THE HEYSEN TRAIL