Israel YAEL BARNIER YAEL

A cyclists’ paradise near the Isaac Ochberg Birdwatch ’s Central Park Megiddo is a hidden paradise of history and greenery By Ruth Wasserman Lande

“The kings came, they fought; Christian mosaic and the Roman Sixth victory and marked the end of Ottoman rule then fought the kings of Canaan, Legion’s camp. Remnants of Christian re- in Palestine. This, in turn, made it possible at Taanach, by the waters of Megiddo” ligious buildings from this period are not for the dream inherent in the Balfour Dec- (Judges 5:19) common in Israel, while inscribed mosa- laration of 1917 to become a reality, and for ics from the third and fourth centuries are the modern State of Israel to be established FROM THE dawn of history, Megiddo has extremely rare. in 1948. played a central role in the most influential This structure is also key to understand- During Israel’s War of Independence in and groundbreaking events. Its first urban ing the origins of Christianity as an official 1948, the Mishmar Ha’emek battles be- characteristics were adopted during the religion, given that this particular mosaic tween the IDF and the enemy’s Qawuqji Bronze Age, around 2900 BCE. In the 15th includes inscriptions representing archae- forces paved the way to Jewish control over century BCE, Megiddo witnessed the first ological evidence of the existence of an the entire Megiddo region and greatly influ- documented battle in human history, be- ancient Christian community, whose mem- enced the Haganah and Palmach’s general tween the kings of Canaan and the Egyptian bers, both men and women, served in the victory during the war. Pharaoh, after which the Megiddo junction Roman army. The site also portrays early The Jo’ara Camp, adjacent to Ein became an important passageway used by coexistence between a Christian communi- Hashofet operated as the army squad com- great civilizations. ty alongside a Samaritan and Jewish settle- manders’ barracks, as well as an officers’ In fact, the Via Maris, connecting ancient ment, adjacent to a Roman military camp. course base for the Haganah and the Pal- Egypt, Syria and Phoenicia, converged at Furthermore, the name Megiddo appears mach before the establishment of the State Megiddo, emphasizing its centrality and in the Old Testament no less than 18 times. of Israel. Here, the late Israeli prime minis- importance. Records show that as early as In the “Song of Deborah,” for example, it is ter Yitzhak Rabin trained his troops during 2000 BCE, Megiddo was established as a mentioned as the place where the tribes of his long stint in the IDF, of which he finally strong and rich state. Ephraim, Benjamin, Menashe, Zevulun and served as chief of staff. Currently, this site This hidden historic treasure holds sig- Naftali attacked the army of Canaan in the is being transformed into an interactive nificant value for both Christianity and 13th century BCE. educational heritage center, promising to Judaism. As Christian belief details in the Megiddo’s archaeological and religious serve as yet another attraction for those who prophecy of St. John in the Book of Revela- significance were formally recognized in seek fun activity coupled with history. tions 16:16, Armageddon (Megiddo) would 2005. That year, the Megiddo region was Today’s Megiddo Regional Council be the site of the final battle between the declared a UNESCO “World Heritage Site.” comprises 13 communities – nine kibbut- forces of good and evil during the “End of Yet this pearl, in the heart of Israel, is zim, one farming community and three Days.” not only a cradle of ancient history and re- cooperative settlements (moshavim), Among the archaeological sites found ligious significance. The modern battle of constituting a home for some 12,500 peo- in Megiddo are an ancient Roman temple Megiddo, which took place during the latter ple. It stretches over a territory of some dating back to the third century BCE, a half of 1915, ended in a significant British 2,000 square feet, comprising breathtak-

26 THE JERUSALEM REPORT JANUARY 27, 2020 RAN PERETZRAN COURTESY

Megiddo Regional Council head Izhak Holavsky ing landscapes of nature, woods, rivers, The Tel Megiddo National Park agricultural fields and plantations. The Megiddo Regional Council’s “road- map” is based on designating the entire area Africa. Some 187 metal plaques may be despite its name – is within the jurisdiction as “the Israeli Central Park.” seen throughout the area naming each of of the Megiddo Regional Council. This surprising pearl of greenery offers these orphans. In 2011, the Regional Council of Megid- a beautiful walking path along the Shofet Adjacent to Kibbutz Gal-Ed, within a do also received UNESCO’s “Biosphere River, which is completely accessible to vis- beautiful grove of eucalyptus and pine Reserve” recognition, being the only com- itors with disabilities and dotted with picnic trees, one may find a magical spread of wild pletely Biospheric region in Israel and one venues. It is also the home of many beauti- flowers, which come into full bloom every of few such sites worldwide. Moreover, ful and safe-to-visit caves and the remnants February. West of this flower hill, visitors the biospheric issue is deeply ingrained in of an old flour mill, all drenched in nature may continue to visit the well-known Alli- the educational system within the regional and greenery. Not far away, one may also gator River. council, and supported as such by the Ed- find a playground for small children. The aforementioned dip into nature ucation Ministry, being the first ever Bio- The Isaac Ochberg Birdwatch is yet an- should not be concluded without a must-vis- spheric educational program worldwide. other largely unknown venue, adjacent to it to the Tel Megiddo archaeological site, In fact, Megiddo offers top-quality edu- a quadrupled three-mile bicycle path. This depicting the unique historical significance cation and its schools regularly win coun- site serves as a memorial to Isaac Ochberg, of the site. trywide excellency awards. One of the who saved 187 Jewish orphans during the To complete this interlude in paradise one schools is uniquely famous for its success pogroms in Eastern Europe in the first half may enjoy the kosher Tanduca restaurant in educating mixed student groups, com- of the 20th century and flew them to South in the Yokne’am village, which – prising both secular and religious students. The Megiddo Regional Council is current- ly headed by Izhak Holavsky, son of the late Dr. Shalom Holavsky, a partisan com- mander during World War II and world-re- YAEL BARNIER BARNIER YAEL nowned researcher of the Jewish opposition movement during this period. The visionary Holavsky’s future plans comprise several tourist attractions, including the opening of the ancient Roman temple with its Christian mosaic; completing the excavations of the Roman Sixth Legion’s camp; renovating the ancient Roman amphitheater that will also host the “Armageddon Experience” customized shows; and converting an old British police building to serve as a visitor center, boutique hotel and restaurant. ■

The writer is CEO of ‘Ruth- Global Inno- vative Advisory’ and a former adviser to Visitors enjoy hiking on the Tel Megiddo National Park trail president Shimon Peres

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