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Clothing and Power in the Royal World of Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, and Elizabeth I)
University of New Hampshire University of New Hampshire Scholars' Repository Inquiry Journal 2020 Inquiry Journal Spring 4-10-2020 Clothing and Power in the Royal World of Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, and Elizabeth I) Niki Toy-Caron University of New Hampshire Follow this and additional works at: https://scholars.unh.edu/inquiry_2020 Recommended Citation Toy-Caron, Niki, "Clothing and Power in the Royal World of Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, and Elizabeth I)" (2020). Inquiry Journal. 10. https://scholars.unh.edu/inquiry_2020/10 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Inquiry Journal at University of New Hampshire Scholars' Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Inquiry Journal 2020 by an authorized administrator of University of New Hampshire Scholars' Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. journal INQUIRY www.unh.edu/inquiryjournal 2020 Research Article Clothing and Power in the Royal World of Catherine of Aragon, Anne Boleyn, and Elizabeth I —Niki Toy-Caron At President Trump’s 2019 State of the Union speech, “the women of the US Democratic party dressed in unanimous white” to make “a powerful statement that the status quo in Washington will be challenged” (Independent 2019). In the 1960s, women burned bras in support of women’s rights. In the late 1500s, Queen Elizabeth I took the reins of England, despite opposition, by creating a powerful image using clothing as one of her tools. These are only a few examples of how women throughout history have used clothing to advance their agenda, form their own alliances, and defend their interests. -
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch Für Europäische Geschichte
Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe European History Yearbook Jahrbuch für Europäische Geschichte Edited by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Volume 20 Dress and Cultural Difference in Early Modern Europe Edited by Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Edited at Leibniz-Institut für Europäische Geschichte by Johannes Paulmann in cooperation with Markus Friedrich and Nick Stargardt Founding Editor: Heinz Duchhardt ISBN 978-3-11-063204-0 e-ISBN (PDF) 978-3-11-063594-2 e-ISBN (EPUB) 978-3-11-063238-5 ISSN 1616-6485 This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 04. International License. For details go to http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. Library of Congress Control Number:2019944682 Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Nationalbibliothek The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication in the Deutsche Nationalbibliografie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the Internet at http://dnb.dnb.de. © 2019 Walter de Gruyter GmbH, Berlin/Boston The book is published in open access at www.degruyter.com. Typesetting: Integra Software Services Pvt. Ltd. Printing and Binding: CPI books GmbH, Leck Cover image: Eustaţie Altini: Portrait of a woman, 1813–1815 © National Museum of Art, Bucharest www.degruyter.com Contents Cornelia Aust, Denise Klein, and Thomas Weller Introduction 1 Gabriel Guarino “The Antipathy between French and Spaniards”: Dress, Gender, and Identity in the Court Society of Early Modern -
Book Spring 2006.Qxd
Anthony Grafton History’s postmodern fates Downloaded from http://direct.mit.edu/daed/article-pdf/135/2/54/1829123/daed.2006.135.2.54.pdf by guest on 26 September 2021 As the twenty-½rst century begins, his- in the mid-1980s to almost one thousand tory occupies a unique, but not an envi- now. But the vision of a rise in the num- able, position among the humanistic dis- ber of tenure-track jobs that William ciplines in the United States. Every time Bowen and others evoked, and that lured Clio examines her reflection in the mag- many young men and women into grad- ic mirror of public opinion, more voices uate school in the 1990s, has never mate- ring out, shouting that she is the ugliest rialized in history. The market, accord- Muse of all. High school students rate ingly, seems out of joint–almost as bad- history their most boring subject. Un- ly so as in the years around 1970, when dergraduates have fled the ½eld with production of Ph.D.s ½rst reached one the enthusiasm of rats leaving a sinking thousand or more per year just as univer- ship. Thirty years ago, some 5 percent sities and colleges went into economic of all undergraduates majored in histo- crisis. Many unemployed holders of doc- ry. Nowadays, around 2 percent do so. torates in history hold their teachers and Numbers of new Ph.D.s have risen, from universities responsible for years of op- a low of just under ½ve hundred per year pression, misery, and wasted effort that cannot be usefully reapplied in other careers.1 Anthony Grafton, a Fellow of the American Acad- Those who succeed in obtaining ten- emy since 2002, is Henry Putnam University Pro- ure-track positions, moreover, may still fessor of History at Princeton University and ½nd themselves walking a stony path. -
Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
Is There a Future for Italian Microhistory in the Age of Global History?
Is There a Future for Italian Microhistory in the Age of Global History? Francesca Trivellato In the late 1970s and 80s, particularly after the appearance of Carlo Ginzburg’s The Cheese and the Worms (1976) and Giovanni Levi’s Inheriting Power (1985), Italian microhistory shook the ground of established historiographical paradigms and practices. Since then, as Anthony Grafton put it, “Microhistories have captivated readers, won places on syllabi, been translated into many languages – and enraged and delighted their [the authors’] fellow professionals” (2006, 62). Are the questions that propelled Italian microhistory still significant or have they lost impetus? How has the meaning of microhistory changed over the past thirty years? And what can this approach contribute nowadays, when ‘globalization’ and ‘global’ are the dominant keywords in the humanities and the social sciences – keywords that we hardly associate with anything micro? In what follows, I wish to put forth two arguments. I suggest that the potential of a microhistorical approach for global history remains underexploited. Since the 1980s, the encounter between Italian microhistory and global history has been confined primarily to the narrative form. A host of studies of individuals whose lives traversed multiple linguistic, political, and religious boundaries has enjoyed considerable success among scholars and the broad public alike. These are predicated on the idea that a micro- and biographical scale can best portray the entanglement of cultural traditions produced by the growing contacts and clashes between different societies that followed the sixteenth- century European geographical expansion. They also reflect a greater comfort among historians and the general reader, perhaps most pronounced in Anglophone countries, with narration rather than social scientific analysis. -
William Herle's Report of the Dutch Situation, 1573
LIVES AND LETTERS, VOL. 1, NO. 1, SPRING 2009 Signs of Intelligence: William Herle’s Report of the Dutch Situation, 1573 On the 11 June 1573 the agent William Herle sent his patron William Cecil, Lord Burghley a lengthy intelligence report of a ‘Discourse’ held with Prince William of Orange, Stadtholder of the Netherlands.∗ Running to fourteen folio manuscript pages, the Discourse records the substance of numerous conversations between Herle and Orange and details Orange’s efforts to persuade Queen Elizabeth to come to the aid of the Dutch against Spanish Habsburg imperial rule. The main thrust of the document exhorts Elizabeth to accept the sovereignty of the Low Countries in order to protect England’s naval interests and lead a league of protestant European rulers against Spain. This essay explores the circumstances surrounding the occasion of the Discourse and the context of the text within Herle’s larger corpus of correspondence. In the process, I will consider the methods by which the study of the material features of manuscripts can lead to a wider consideration of early modern political, secretarial and archival practices. THE CONTEXT By the spring of 1573 the insurrection in the Netherlands against Spanish rule was seven years old. Elizabeth had withdrawn her covert support for the English volunteers aiding the Dutch rebels, and was busy entertaining thoughts of marriage with Henri, Duc d’Alençon, brother to the King of France. Rejecting the idea of French assistance after the massacre of protestants on St Bartholomew’s day in Paris the previous year, William of Orange was considering approaching the protestant rulers of Europe, mostly German Lutheran sovereigns, to form a strong alliance against Spanish Catholic hegemony. -
John R. Mcneill University Professor Georgetown University President of the American Historical Association, 2019 Presidential Address
2020-President_Address.indd All Pages 14/10/19 7:31 PM John R. McNeill University Professor Georgetown University President of the American Historical Association, 2019 Presidential Address New York Hilton Trianon Ballroom New York, New York Saturday, January 4, 2020 5:30 PM John R. McNeill By George Vrtis, Carleton College In fall 1998, John McNeill addressed the Georgetown University community to help launch the university’s new capital campaign. Sharing the stage with Georgetown’s president and other dignitaries, McNeill focused his comments on the two “great things” he saw going on at Georgetown and why each merited further support. One of those focal points was teaching and the need to constantly find creative new ways to inspire, share knowledge, and build intellectual community among faculty and students. The other one centered on scholarship. Here McNeill suggested that scholars needed to move beyond the traditional confines of academic disciplines laid down in the 19th century, and engage in more innovative, imaginative, and interdisciplinary research. Our intellectual paths have been very fruitful for a long time now, McNeill observed, but diminishing returns have set in, information and methodologies have exploded, and new roads beckon. To help make his point, McNeill likened contemporary scholars to a drunk person searching for his lost keys under a lamppost, “not because he lost them there but because that is where the light is.” The drunk-swirling-around-the-lamppost metaphor was classic McNeill. Throughout his academic life, McNeill has always conveyed his ideas in clear, accessible, often memorable, and occasionally humorous language. And he has always ventured into the darkness, searchlight in hand, helping us to see and understand the world and ourselves ever more clearly with each passing year. -
Books Added to Benner Library from Estate of Dr. William Foote
Books added to Benner Library from estate of Dr. William Foote # CALL NUMBER TITLE Scribes and scholars : a guide to the transmission of Greek and Latin literature / by L.D. Reynolds and N.G. 1 001.2 R335s, 1991 Wilson. 2 001.2 Se15e Emerson on the scholar / Merton M. Sealts, Jr. 3 001.3 R921f Future without a past : the humanities in a technological society / John Paul Russo. 4 001.30711 G163a Academic instincts / Marjorie Garber. Book of the book : some works & projections about the book & writing / edited by Jerome Rothenberg and 5 002 B644r Steven Clay. 6 002 OL5s Smithsonian book of books / Michael Olmert. 7 002 T361g Great books and book collectors / Alan G. Thomas. 8 002.075 B29g Gentle madness : bibliophiles, bibliomanes, and the eternal passion for books / Nicholas A. Basbanes. 9 002.09 B29p Patience & fortitude : a roving chronicle of book people, book places, and book culture / Nicholas A. Basbanes. Books of the brave : being an account of books and of men in the Spanish Conquest and settlement of the 10 002.098 L552b sixteenth-century New World / Irving A. Leonard ; with a new introduction by Rolena Adorno. 11 020.973 R824f Foundations of library and information science / Richard E. Rubin. 12 021.009 J631h, 1976 History of libraries in the Western World / by Elmer D. Johnson and Michael H. Harris. 13 025.2832 B175d Double fold : libraries and the assault on paper / Nicholson Baker. London booksellers and American customers : transatlantic literary community and the Charleston Library 14 027.2 R196L Society, 1748-1811 / James Raven. -
Spanish Farthingale Dress
Spanish Farthingale Dress This dress has a separate bodice, under skirt and over skirt, as well as a partlet at the neck.. The bodice opens in the back, the under skirt opens at the side, and the over skirt opens in the front. There are no fitting seams in the bodice. Although I did not add boning to the bodice, you certainly could. It would help to keep the front point down and add some body to the front of the bodice. The under skirt was made with muslin in the back to conserve fabric, which was certainly done in the 16th Century. The over skirt closes in the front under the point of the bodice. The straight sleeves have a gathered cap. This dress is worn with a Spanish farthingale and can also have a bum roll in the back for the support of the cartridge pleating. (see the bum roll pattern under the French Farthingale Dress Spanish Farthingale Cut 2 from each of the pattern pieces, adding ¼” for seam allowance (This can be made using muslin or similar fabric) When tracing the pattern, make sure that you mark all of the lines for the boning. Sew the seams for each set of the pattern so that you end up with two single layer farthingale skirts. Then stitch the two together at the bottom with right sides together. Finish the side openings by turning the seam allowance in and hand or machine stitching it closed. The top is finished with a piece of bias tape, leaving enough at the sides in order to tie the farthingale into place. -
Phi Beta Kappa Visiting Scholars 1956-57- 2016-2017 (61 Years)
Phi Beta Kappa Visiting Scholars 1956-57- 2016-2017 (61 years) 2016-2017 (112 visits) Adorno, Rolena Spanish/Latin American literatur Yale Bialek, William physics Princeton Ehrman, Bart D. religion, New Testament UNC-Chapel Hill Grosz, Barbara J. computer science Harvard Hochschild, Jennifer L. political science Harvard Kitcher, Philip philosophy Columbia Lester, Marsha I. chemistry Penn Morse, Nora Naranjo fine arts, poetry, sculpture Espanola, NM Rodgers, Daniel T. American history & culture Princeton Sabloff, Jeremy A. anthropology, Maya Penn Weiman, David F. economic history Barnard Wexler, Laura American studies Yale Witt, John Fabian law, American history Yale Wright, Patricia anthropology/primatology SUNY, Stony Brook Xiao, Shuhai geobiology/paleobiology Virginia Tech 2015-2016 (100 visits) Michael Bérubé English, disability studies Penn State Caroline Bruzelius art, art history Duke David K. Campbell physics, engineering Boston U. Hazel V. Carby African American studies Yale Carol Greenhouse anthropology, sociocultural Princeton David B. Grusky sociology, inequality, poverty Stanford Rigoberto Hernandez biochemistry, diversity studies Georgia Tech Mae Ngai history, Asian American studies Columbia Judith Resnik law Yale Timothy Rowe paleontology, geology UTAustin Larry A. Silver art history, Renaissance Penn Harold W. Stanley political science, elections Southern Methodist Richard Sylla American economic history NYU Blaire Van Valkenburgh vertebrate paleonbiology UCLA Vincent L. Wimbush religion Inst.SignifyingScriptures 2014-2015 (96 visits) Jeffrey C. Alexander sociology Yale William Y. Arms computer science Cornell Wendy Brown political science UCBerkeley Caroline Bruzelius art, art history Duke Philip J. Deloria history, American Indian Michigan Gerald Graff English, education Illinois at Chicago Kathleen McGarry economics, aging UCLA Gregory A. Petsko neurology, neuroscience Cornell Med. -
Robert C. Darnton Shelby Cullom Davis ‘30 Professor of European History Princeton University
Robert C. Darnton Shelby Cullom Davis ‘30 Professor of European History Princeton University President 1999 LIJ r t i Robert C. Darnton The French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu once remarked that Robert Damton’s principal shortcoming as a scholar is that he “writes too well.” This prodigious talent, which arouses such suspicion of aristocratic pretension among social scientists in republican France, has made him nothing less than an academic folk hero in America—one who is read with equal enthusiasm and pleasure by scholars and the public at large. Darnton’ s work improbably blends a strong dose of Cartesian rationalism with healthy portions of Dickensian grit and sentiment. The result is a uniquely American synthesis of the finest traits of our British and French ancestors—a vision of the past that is at once intellectually bracing and captivatingly intimate. fascination with the making of modem Western democracies came easily to this true blue Yankee. Born in New York City on the eve of the Second World War, the son of two reporters at the New York Times, Robert Damton has always had an immediate grasp of what it means to be caught up in the fray of modem world historical events. The connection between global historical forces and the tangible lives of individuals was driven home at a early age by his father’s death in the Pacific theater during the war. Irreparable loss left him with a deep commitment to recover the experiences of people in the past. At Phillips Academy and Harvard College, his first interest was in American history. -
AHA Colloquium
Cover.indd 1 13/10/20 12:51 AM Thank you to our generous sponsors: Platinum Gold Bronze Cover2.indd 1 19/10/20 9:42 PM 2021 Annual Meeting Program Program Editorial Staff Debbie Ann Doyle, Editor and Meetings Manager With assistance from Victor Medina Del Toro, Liz Townsend, and Laura Ansley Program Book 2021_FM.indd 1 26/10/20 8:59 PM 400 A Street SE Washington, DC 20003-3889 202-544-2422 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.historians.org Perspectives: historians.org/perspectives Facebook: facebook.com/AHAhistorians Twitter: @AHAHistorians 2020 Elected Officers President: Mary Lindemann, University of Miami Past President: John R. McNeill, Georgetown University President-elect: Jacqueline Jones, University of Texas at Austin Vice President, Professional Division: Rita Chin, University of Michigan (2023) Vice President, Research Division: Sophia Rosenfeld, University of Pennsylvania (2021) Vice President, Teaching Division: Laura McEnaney, Whittier College (2022) 2020 Elected Councilors Research Division: Melissa Bokovoy, University of New Mexico (2021) Christopher R. Boyer, Northern Arizona University (2022) Sara Georgini, Massachusetts Historical Society (2023) Teaching Division: Craig Perrier, Fairfax County Public Schools Mary Lindemann (2021) Professor of History Alexandra Hui, Mississippi State University (2022) University of Miami Shannon Bontrager, Georgia Highlands College (2023) President of the American Historical Association Professional Division: Mary Elliott, Smithsonian’s National Museum of African American History and Culture (2021) Nerina Rustomji, St. John’s University (2022) Reginald K. Ellis, Florida A&M University (2023) At Large: Sarah Mellors, Missouri State University (2021) 2020 Appointed Officers Executive Director: James Grossman AHR Editor: Alex Lichtenstein, Indiana University, Bloomington Treasurer: William F.