What Well-Dressed Women Will Wear by ANNE RlTTENHOUSE Cultivate Taste and Knowledge in Dress If You Would Be Individual The .«American woman should do that, so she may buy wisely and well.Let her study her own style through the history of clothing and through art, in order that her individuality may be shown.Paris leads the way into history for the choice of the newfashions.Revivalof the polonaise.Mediaeval styles still rule, but many evening gowns will be in Empire style, picturesque, but rather scanty r hemme the arbiters of our own «.artorial fa' the fighters oLthe Voeget and the Alpine passes The war in Prance has abolished leadership have a comradeship. The rakish Continental MODIFIED certain fashions by their acceptance in t hat wac included in the fashions because the highest circles of power, and, with our drei land nf that George Washington whom '¡encrai CONTINENT makers and shops somewhat puzrled as to wh Lafayette came to assist is spreading her sol¬ will lead and what will not, we ha\e the be diers over the pleasant valleyt 0Í the sister re the AL HAT chance of our career to suit ourselve«. public and sending her huge guns to protect of as all and true, Black velvet with This will be really the millennium in dret Road Ladlet gentlemen, good bunch of colored Paris, the centre of art in the world, rreat should do. a«: at '1 ho crown and the rollicking brim ..o»e« »t the »idc. from a point In air, the engineers say, pinched-in of she sends weahooT hunt been included in the most, fashionable hat", a» ilring» of velvet. from the mass material thousand different, types of costumes if we «rie because these soldiers have been smiled at and, Look a bit, into the history of each costume, some -ay, kissed by, the midinette- as they Paris die«;, and say to yourself, doe» my fa ¦¡rolled the boulevards at noon hour. Why try and figure, my physical and mortal individuals t«> outline the conglomeration of episodes that reflect that period? If the an«.wer il in tl are reflecte.) in these autumn clothes that we negative, don't let any one persuade you will soon be asked to buy and mould to our in¬ buy i*. dividuality? France has put the pns-mg pano The of Type rama of the planet, into MOtumery. If we Importance it all, we shall lcx>k like a procession of not of tl adopt "Know thyself" was written only the apes staged by some Gargantuan stage di¬ to rlothes. grc, spirit; it can be applied No rector. It is our part, in this procession that i« of Siamese-twin mi designer is ignorant the4 of vital importance. It is necessary that e«ch matter as it relat» »action between mind and womiiii should furo the situation with some the outf to the n^ntal and moral outlook and knowledge, much discernment and an inclina¬ in a covering. The Doric character shepherdc» tion to express herself. «ostume is painful. The black-browed type I ! have outlined the periods from which the in a old Egypt is a caricature garlanded hoof new clothes are drawn. The varied-expres- skirt. The mid-Victorian type is terrifying t lioiU of the personal opinions of the French de see in a vampire role. So it. goes. signers will be interesting, for each will take on. Hut In a few weeks the gamble will be different parts of the period to suit, his special «Ireds of women a«'t in the. buying of clot.hr skill. It, is safe to that Victorian- th enough say somewhat, after the manner that, governed m will be eliminated; superfluous frills, lottery of our national conscription. Theyblin«: flounces, pochctl will be abandoned to the past. fold the eyes, put the hand into the mass of ma teri.il offered and draw out a number. Coats, Long and Short that the man-mad When the ships dodge The struggle will not he between wide and «harks of the sea bring to us these cases 0 metals, embroideries and vel narrow skirts this coming season, but between silks, brocades, long and short coats. vets fashioned for the American woman, w Fach designer has turned out a few of each will see that these clothes are the heirs to al length, some to the shoe top?, some to the hips. the ages. China will dominate some bits o influence of will b The public can choose between them, or adopt i i WÊm m* costumery, the Napoleon both. there, the Russian Cossacks who threw them the 11th Regiment ii The coat and waistcoat in one, as Drecoll SEPARATE BODICE FOR EVEN- selves before retreating conceives is both and dignified. Galicia will be another motive for certain cu it, graceful The cloth is a dark velour, a shade and ING GOWN and color and the recent exhibition of Prend green a fabric that seem to have made an I he skirt is of cyclamen tulle, accordion pleated, clothes in Madrid is reflected in the things tha impression already upon the early fall fashions. with garland of embroidery apd formal bouqueta. were out of Spain. brought The of the coat are The bodke and sash are of black satin. long panels generally Clothes Form Historic Episodes «gathered at the waistline and the lining of EMPIRE FROCK shows as the material swirls from «rid Aoomrt Not only will different countries be repre repe away Jade green »alin with embroidery AN ENGLISH paper has recently pub- that is com the tucked skirt of (ieorgette crêpe in dark »trap» in green. the at- serted in the medley of costumery Z\ Bahed an article dealing with in ol reí. The armholcs are characteristic, for they --.*- ing to us, but various epochs the history tempt and failure of American women First are indicative of the caprices which these open¬ of Paris and places, especially of France.the Empire grounod together the advance tj H that pad deaignera to he independent the swirling and transparent ings have taken to themselves. as it were. the Consulate, \merirans will ad«>pt, there is » def¬ tes Ol on OVa good sense, made famous by Mme. Tallien, the They arc battlemented, they are scalloped, probably to the source. draperies and sometimes run to the show¬ inite suggestion of Empire evening «Town«. in returning of Shreds and Patches, as she was nick¬ they waistline, there was not a serious or concerted Queen or Thc.-^ are nol the P. m pue s? w, In truth, the biblike of embroidery worn ing heavy cords of satin silk. It is a me¬ eoetsunee to he of Paris. It was named, panels to it and as we have abusen' it, It M mpt independent of Rumania when she arrayed dieval fashion bring the armholes down on have known .: the should by the Queen Th» Amerkna people costumes. and over the sleeve and slash them into artistic (he actúa! Kmpire of the Napoleonic day«1. of the war in France herself in the native It is of free*. leel that the outbreak will he revived from that day irregularities, and the dressmakers have sud¬ sketi-b shows «nc of these frock'. w'heels of her commerce in The polonaise THE POLONAISE OF POLAND which chirnei would «¿top all the of Rose Bertin, who denly thoui/ht of it and accepted it as a fa.-hmn satin in the shade known as jade, that the other countries would be when the predece.».-or Will be revivt>d for the autumn. It it of dull blue désira for i clothes, and Marie Antoinette, made fashionable to be indulged for the autumn. in well with the overwhelming --«r« to go on their own. gowned velour with front panel in skirt of beige cloth. touch of Chinese that is exhibited in the mod¬ polled VI the striking garment worn by the Polish prin¬ Lanvin's Continental Hat It is a happy ->Nv to report in s.up- ern costumery. /y« cess, Marie, whom Louis XV made Queen of i.'f this outlined sc-ntnnent that the ship- We are to have the out¬ Fiance. Those Chinese wraps and sleeves and going Kerensky and stiff bouquet of colored roses and long stream¬ The skirt is gathered to the band that of costumée from France which will take PEASANT FROCK the the skirt, the there is B» tassels worn by the noblemen who represented Per.-hing hat, cowboy poncho, ers of black velvet ribbon. lines the decolletage. In truth, placo on or about August ¿j will be as heavy as In beige Georgette and blue Rumanian em¬ and now, in far more manner, we will that the to? Peking as the first embassy sent from China to dignified The prospect for any especial coiffure for the bodice. Shoulder straps suggest in normal times. The number of buyers who broidery, with the new neck line and «hort reflect America's warlike in that same evidence of France are recalled into the new fashions be¬ spirit hours that are hatless is waning, if the hats of part of the figure snout give some have gone abroad has een reduced, on account ileeve». evi¬ China is with F ranee and is fighting, as Lanvin's introduction of the hat worn by Gen¬ the autumn continue to grow in size so that a covering, but that .-light sop to tradition of volunteering, conscription and changes. . cause eral and Horse Lee. the actrrM she fought, to be a republic. Mme. Pompadour, Washington Light Harry they will completely cover the hair. Nothing dently satisfies the designer and 'ore, in the personnel of many business The Continental even in its modified It is nul a wa«,te of time to be fully aware of who insisted that La Tour paint her with the hat, will show but an "accroche c.ur," or a Vic¬ who wears the gown. houses, but the resident buyers and the impor- has served as to those and the kind of costumery that you should adopt. Chinese porcelains brought to the King of form, already inspiration torian puff. There are no sleeves. The emiiroidery for groups of houses have who are a bit of the TM The comprehensive adjustment between your France by the Celestials as a background, weary ubiquitous high The hairdressers have tried to introduce a strings of bead:- are a!««, in jade green. scl the expected business. crown and wide brim. The sketch shows a .-tu and it type and your clothing will save money, nerves mad«» "Chinoisie" the fashion. more ornate coiffure than women have con¬ capéis the turning point of the me, In hat of this sort in black satin that was with it* Where America Comes and regrets. Don't be so foolish as to say any¬ bought sented to wear for several years, but so far is intended to be an integral pa. t of it, The Allied Hats American milliners in Paris. and tute]i So much for Paris. But, with all that sh« thing will do in these warring times and then by shopping one can see no bright prospect of it. splendid collar and elaborate cordl is worn far over has a fluted of »S''8 an important task on money recklessly on the wrong thing. As The green coque feathers flaunting from new It tl\e brow, Those who are in Paris are writing over as a background for the four widths placet spend of the in and is transferred from 0. Never before in the history a great designer once said to an American bat« have been borrowed from the hats indentation front, here about the really remarkable frocks posing as a frock. of because its masculine to its setting by a seems certain this yesr con¬ . ¡othes has this especial demand woman of health, serenity, strength of body shatpshooters, the bersaglieri Italy, origin present that are being launched at the Paris One thing to be them. It is this: must and of face. If you are Doric, be Dcric. in to stimulate the in¬ cerning the waist line. It is to be severer upon they courage theatres, order, possibly, cir¬ OUI their own salvation. Our heads of That's the to decide on clothes. If you terest in French clothes at a time of the snubbed. It doe« not exist m web-dressed way year it mu« «and houses are far from be- are be eighteenth century, it is for Americans to cles. The belt may go up or down, but
It i« of claret wool poplin, th« blouie edged with gold The Polonaise i ^gain in Fashion The Mediaeval Chemise Frock extending into a galloon, *"*c PARIS history has been tran.-lated through are featured a< the main thing. novel pocket. The akirt ha» a" individu 1\NY OM hoped for a decided charge from Usually the workmanship in this bib is re¬ dress as well as through narrative. signer has tried them out in the mediaeval frocklng that has governed peated on the skirt. Pans is quite determined, three tuck» at the hem. That is a trick of the French nation. manner. « on th" vast reestablishment of the world of dress for the last two yeais. that is certain, Therefore, when Louis XV took unto him- Usually they are lined with a contraiU« it her business in embroidery. Her women are and ( hiñese will be «disappointment. Paris says is so ,-elf a Polish for a wife, the dress¬ color and fabric. Old gold needleworkers of importance. None good princess as ««.«¦W^ v. 1! on. And at the moment affairs alternate with and slate gray go present on this planet, possibly, unle.«s isolated excep¬ maker of that day. the immediate predecessor pearl »PM are in Pari3 hands. We shall see what we tions in the Indian and Persian countries. Rose Bertin. took the occasion to linings. When the il of dark of the famous polonaise tregnl shall see when the new clothes arrive in mid- Her gentlewomen are trained, as all gentle¬ celebrate the event in cloth and embroidery. red velvet or black the lining il »' are too women used to be trained in olden before but in the meanwhile there days, manner of dressmakers. dead white. , September, Such was the ! on watch the sewing machine and ready-to-wear gar¬ a. '» n.any authentic rumors ior tnose the The garment that was invented was called If we wear it next winter Paria ments, in the art of holding a needle tilled with it will turtn'r «wer« to be m ignorance. wonders with it. the It was a modification of the ing it at the present moment lino thread and accomplishing polonaise. ' Here j» the way in which th* new kind of Money has been scarce among the people in sumptuous rabal that Marie brought with her evident inclination of the dcMgri«'*"¿.»jpe from the one that is in aristocratic of Knnch and the to strengthen the faahionabtl po»-*»" frock will differ your segments life, «^ | part of her trousseau. public same of situ« of the skirt. . now, u\ all It will be wnr has brought about the kind separate an..»»in. possession probability. tion which existed the Revolution: those The garment almost covered whatever was Paris has brought velour into tashion the hem as it was five years ago. during well »«j narrow at who are too to work for their living in worn beneath. It was as concealing as the Americans like the soft fabric the neck line taken from the fif¬ proud »'. *n<7g J- will have (ithcr will tiow do so under the national one or when it behaves .tself-that teenth