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Oversize materials (e.g., maps, drawings, charts) are reproduced by sectioning the original, beginning at the upper left-hand comer and continuing from left to right in equal sections with small overlaps. Each original is also photographed in one exposure and is included in reduced form at the back of the book. Photographs included in the original manuscript have been reproduced xerographicaUy in this copy. Higher quality 6” x 9" black and white photographic prints are available for aity photographs or illustrations appearing in this copy for an additional charge. Contact UMI directly to order. UMI University Microfilms international A Bell & Howell Information Company 300 North Zeeb Road. Ann Arbor. Ml 48106-1346 USA 313/761-4700 800/521-0600 Order Number 9022512 The influence of fashion on the dress of Afirican-American w o m e n in Georgia, 1870—1915 Hunt, Patricia Kay, Ph.D. The Ohio State University, 1990 C o p y r i ^ t © 1 9 9 0 by Hunt, Patricia Kay. All rights reserved. UMI 300 N. Zeeb Rd Ann Arbor, MI 48106 THE INFLUENCE OF FASHION ON THE DRESS OF AFRICAN AMERICAN WOMEN IN GEORGIA, 1870-1915 DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of the Ohio State University By Patricia Kay Hunt, B.S., M.S. ***** The Ohio State University 1990 Dissertation Committee: Approved by Lucy R. Sibley Henry L. Taylor Hazel Jackson Kathryn Jakes . Nancy Rudd Adviser Department of Textiles & Clothing Copyright by Patricia Kay Hunt 1990 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS My sincere appreciation is extended to Dr. Lucy R. Sibley, Major Professor, for her support, guidance, and expertise throughout the planning and execution of this research project. The author also wishes to thank Dr. Henry Taylor, Jr. for his encouragement, guidance and support from the inception of this project to its completion. Gratitude is extended to Dr. Hazel Jackson, Dr. Kathryn Jakes, and Dr. Nancy Rudd, all of whom have contributed to the completion of this project by serving on my Graduate Committee. Special gratitude is extended to Mr. Alfonso Biggs, Atlanta University, Spelman College, The Herndon Home, The Spencer Home and the Vanishing Georgia Collection of the Georgia State Archives for the use of photographs within each collection. A special thanks to my parents who have supported me in various ways throughout my Ph.D. program and the completion of the dissertation. Also special thanks to Rob Redmond and Charlotte Headrick who edited portions of the dissertation and also provided support and encouragement towards the completion of this research project. ii Special appreciation is extended to Beverly Gray for her patience and typing expertise. Xll VITA July 28, 1954 .............. Born-Wurzburg, Germany 1977 ....................... University of Georgia, Athens, Georgia. 1977-1978 .................. High school teacher. Home Economics, Hepzibah High School, Hephzibah, Georgia 1981-1983 .................. Graduate Assistant, Department of Textiles and Clothing, College of Home Economics, University of Georgia, Athens, Georgia. 1983.. ....................... M.S. Department of Textiles and Clothing, College of Home Economics, University of Georgia, Athens, Georgia. 1983-1984 .................. Instructor, Department of Textiles and Clothing, College of Home Economics, University of Georgia, Athens, Georgia. 1984-1986 .................. Graduate Associate, Department of Textiles and Clothing, College of Home Economics, The Ohio State University. 1987-1989 .................. Assistant Professor, Department of Apparel, Interiors & Merchandising, Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon 1989-Present .............. Assistant Professor, Department of Textiles, Merchandising and Interiors, University of Georgia, Athens, Georgia. XV PUBLICATIONS Hunt, P. K. & Sibley, L. R. (1987). 'Chitchat on fashion'> 1859-1869. Advice from Godev * s and Peterson ' s Magazines on the construction of day dresses. In R. H. Marshall (Ed.), ACPTC Proceedings, (pp. 24). Hunt, P. K. (1986) . An investigation of fabric fragments recovered from a slave cemetary in South Carolina. In Mainfort, Jr., R. C., Southeastern Archaeological Conference. Bulletin 29, (pp. 33-34). FIELDS OF STUDY Major Field: Textiles & Clothing Minor Fields— Historic Costume African American History v TABLE OF CONTENTS PAGE ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .................................... i ü VITA .................................................. LIST OF TABLES ...................................... viii LIST OF PLATES ...................................... ix CHAPTER PAGE I. INTRODUCTION .............................. 1 Statement of the P r o b l e m ......... 4 Obj ectives ......................... 6 Limitations ......................... 7 Definitions ......................... 7 II. REVIEW OF L I T E R A T U R E ..................... 9 African Americans in Georgia, 1865-1915 9 The Meaning of Clothing ........... 33 Costume Characteristics, 1870-1915 44 III. METHODOLOGY .............................. 58 Photographs as Histocial Evidence . 58 Identification of Photograph Collections .................. 61 Classification of Photographs . 61 Recording of the Attributes of Dress from the Photographs . 62 Analysis of D a t e .................. 62 IV. PRESENTATION AND DISCUSSION OF FINDINGS. 65 Collections with Photographs of African American Women .... 65 Classification of the Photographs . 70 Analysis of African American Dress by Time-Fashion Period .... 73 vi Identification of the Degree of F a s h i o n ...................... 133 Comparison of Urban Versus Rural S e t t i n g ....................... 138 V. SUMMARY AND I M P L I C A T I O N S ................ 166 S u m m a r y .............................. 166 Implications ....................... 176 Further Research .................. 177 BIBLIOGRAPHY ......................................... 179 APPENDICES A. Photographs from the Vanishing Georgia Collection ....................... 189 B. Glossary of Costume Terms ................ 191 V l l LIST OF TABLES TABLES PAGE 1. Number of photographs from each c o l l e c t i o n .....................................66 2. Photographs used in the present study . 69 3. Photographs included in the study. Breakdown by Time-Fashion Periods and Location .................................. 72 4. Type of photograph by fashion period and geographic location .......................... 74 5. Number of women per Collection ..............75 6. Fashion rating by time period and location (fashionable) ..................... 134 7. Fashion rating by time period and location (unfashionable) ................... 135 8. Fashion rating by time period and location (one-item fashionable) ............ 139 9. Fashion rating by time period and location (not enough visible) .............. 140 10. Fashion rating for date range photographs ....................................141 vixi LIST OF PLATES PLATES PAGE I. VGC-CTM-219 ................................ 76 II. Herndon 27.108............................... 78 III. Spelman 1266 ............................. 79 IV. Spelman 1267............................... 80 V. V G C - C O W - 8 1 ............................... 81 VI. Spelman 466 ............................... 83 VII. Spelman 375 ............................... 84 VIII. VGC-WAS-278 ............................... 85 IX. VGC-BEN-255 ............................... 88 X. VGC-THO-176 ............................... 89 XI. VGC-THO-169 ............................... 90 XII. VGC-BEN-136 ............................... 91 XIII. Spelman 5 1 1 ................................ 92 XIV. Spelman 5 1 8 B ............................. 93 XV. VGC-DGH-100 ................................ 94 XVI. VGC-BAL-129 ................................ 98 XVII. VGC-LAU-172 ................................ 99 XVIII. VGC-GOR-438 ............................. 100 XIX. VGC-MUS-139 ...................................101 XX. Spelman 622 ............................... 102 XXI. Spelman 464 ................................ 103 XXII. VGC-JON-115 ...................................105 rx XXIII. AU 1900 106 XXIV. Spelman 5 6 3 ................................ 107 XXV. Spelman 1 2 4 1 ................................. 108 XXVI. Spelman 1337 109 XXVII. VGC-LUM-92 ................................... 110 XXVIII. VGC-CAR-189 ................................ 111 XXIX. VGC-JON-39 ............................... 112 XXX. VGC-GLY-188 .................................. 114 XXXI. VGC-JON-51 ............................. 117 XXXII. VGC-LAU-149 ............................... 118 XXXIII. VGC-GLY-164 ............................... 119 XXXIV. VGC-GLY-205 ............................. 120 XXXV. VGC-GLY-175 .................................. 121 XXXVI.