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Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
Women's Clothing in the 18Th Century
National Park Service Park News U.S. Department of the Interior Pickled Fish and Salted Provisions A Peek Inside Mrs. Derby’s Clothes Press: Women’s Clothing in the 18th Century In the parlor of the Derby House is a por- trait of Elizabeth Crowninshield Derby, wearing her finest apparel. But what exactly is she wearing? And what else would she wear? This edition of Pickled Fish focuses on women’s clothing in the years between 1760 and 1780, when the Derby Family were living in the “little brick house” on Derby Street. Like today, women in the 18th century dressed up or down depending on their social status or the work they were doing. Like today, women dressed up or down depending on the situation, and also like today, the shape of most garments was common to upper and lower classes, but differentiated by expense of fabric, quality of workmanship, and how well the garment fit. Number of garments was also determined by a woman’s class and income level; and as we shall see, recent scholarship has caused us to revise the number of garments owned by women of the upper classes in Essex County. Unfortunately, the portrait and two items of clothing are all that remain of Elizabeth’s wardrobe. Few family receipts have survived, and even the de- tailed inventory of Elias Hasket Derby’s estate in 1799 does not include any cloth- ing, male or female. However, because Pastel portrait of Elizabeth Crowninshield Derby, c. 1780, by Benjamin Blythe. She seems to be many other articles (continued on page 8) wearing a loose robe over her gown in imitation of fashionable portraits. -
Kiosk Pacific Grove's in This Issue Jim Gunter Feted As Chamber Of
Kiosk In This Issue Fridays Pacific Groove Dance Jam Chautauqua Hall 8-10 PM Dance to DJs Adults $10/Teens $5 Youth Free • 1st Time Free [email protected] • Saturdays Dance at Chautauqua Hall • Spreading the love - Page 8 Women of Pacific Grove - Page 12- Going for a walk - Page 14 Fri. March 10 Grand Opening “ArtWorks @PacificGrove” 5:00- 8:00PM American Tin Cannery Pacific Grove’s • Fri., March 10 Tibetan Uprising Day 4:30PM to 6:30PM Windows on the Bay • Sat., March 11 Learn to Draw Birds at the Lyceum 3:00 – 5:00 PM Ages: 8 - 12 March 10-16, 2017 Your Community NEWSpaperTimes Vol. IX, Issue 24 Limited to 8 students Instructor: Julie Heilman Fee: $35.00 (includes materials) • Sat. March 11 a capella showcase Jim Gunter feted as Chamber of Commerce’s Community Church 4590 Carmel Valley Road City Employee of the Year Carmel • 7PM Fire inspector Jim Gunter, a Pacific • Grove native and longtime employee of Sat. March 11 the Pacific Grove and Monterey fire service Hootenanny CXVII agencies, is the 2017 Pacific Grove City 7-9:30 PM PG Art Center Employee of the Year. Jim has more than Free event 38 years of combined experience in fire • prevention and suppression on the peninsula. Mon. March 13 A graduate of Pacific Grove High School Marc Del Piero, and Monterey Peninsula College, Gunter on Cal Am’s Problems joined the Pacific Grove Fire Department as 7:00 PM a volunteer firefighter in 1979, citing a desire Unitarian Universalist Church contribute to the community and an interest 490 Aguajito Rd, in serving with the fire department. -
Autumn 2017 Cover
Volume 1, Issue 2, Autumn 2017 Front cover image: John June, 1749, print, 188 x 137mm, British Museum, London, England, 1850,1109.36. The Journal of Dress History Volume 1, Issue 2, Autumn 2017 Managing Editor Jennifer Daley Editor Alison Fairhurst Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org i The Journal of Dress History Volume 1, Issue 2, Autumn 2017 ISSN 2515–0995 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2017 The Association of Dress Historians Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession number: 988749854 The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer–reviewed environment. The journal is published biannually, every spring and autumn. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is distributed completely free of charge, solely for academic purposes, and not for sale or profit. The Journal of Dress History is published on an Open Access platform distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited. The editors of the journal encourage the cultivation of ideas for proposals. -
Presenting the Fashion Object: Analyzing the Exhibition Fashioning the Object: Bless, Boudicca, Sandra Backlund
Western University Scholarship@Western Electronic Thesis and Dissertation Repository 6-3-2014 12:00 AM Presenting the Fashion Object: Analyzing the exhibition Fashioning the Object: Bless, Boudicca, Sandra Backlund Elyse N. Tsotsos The University of Western Ontario Supervisor Bridget J. Elliott The University of Western Ontario Graduate Program in Art History A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the equirr ements for the degree in Master of Arts © Elyse N. Tsotsos 2014 Follow this and additional works at: https://ir.lib.uwo.ca/etd Recommended Citation Tsotsos, Elyse N., "Presenting the Fashion Object: Analyzing the exhibition Fashioning the Object: Bless, Boudicca, Sandra Backlund" (2014). Electronic Thesis and Dissertation Repository. 2093. https://ir.lib.uwo.ca/etd/2093 This Dissertation/Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by Scholarship@Western. It has been accepted for inclusion in Electronic Thesis and Dissertation Repository by an authorized administrator of Scholarship@Western. For more information, please contact [email protected]. PRESENTING THE FASHION OBJECT: ANALYZING THE EXHIBITION FASHIONING THE OBJECT, BLESS, BOUDICCA, SANDRA BACKLUND (Thesis format: Monograph) by Elyse Tsotsos Graduate Program in Visual Arts A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Masters of Art History The School of Graduate and Postdoctoral Studies The University of Western Ontario London, Ontario, Canada © Elyse Nicole Tsotsos 2014 Abstract This thesis discusses methods of display taken up by fashion designers Bless, Boudicca and Sandra Backlund, as seen in the museum exhibit of their work, Fashioning the Object, held at the Art Institute of Chicago from April 14 to September 16, 2012. -
The History of Fashion in France, Or, the Dress of Women from the Gallo
r\ U Ly c r ^ -=4^-^ r J^^^ y^ ^^ ^->^ THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE. 3-\MML THE HISTORY OF FASHION IN FRANCE; OR. THE DRESS OF WOMEN FROM THE GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD TO THE PRESENT TIME, FROM THE FRENCH OF M. AUGUSTIN CHALLAMEL. nv Mrs. CASHEL HOEY and Mr. JOHN LILLIE. S C R I R N E R A N IJ \V K L I' O k 1 J. I»»2. LONDON : PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LIMITED, ST. John's square. —— CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. Various definitions of fashion—The grave side of its history—Quotations from the poets —Character of Frenchwomen—The refinement of their tastes and fancies — Paris the temple of fashion —The provinces ^Mdlle. Mars' yellow gown— The causes of fashion —A saying of Mme. de Girardin's —A remark of Mrs. TroUope's — The dress of actresses— Earliest theories of fashion— The Gyna;ceum of Amman First appearance of the "Journal des Dames et des Modes "—Lamesangere Other pubhcations—An anecdote concerning dolls— Plan of the History of Fashion in France CHAPTER I. THE GALLIC AND GALLO-ROMAN PERIOD. Gallic period—Woad, or the pastel—Tunics and boulgetes—"Mavors"and "Palla" — Cleanliness of the GaUic women -The froth of beer or "kourou"—The women of Marseilles; their marriage-portions — Gallo-Roman period — The Roman garment—The " stola "— Refinement of elegance—Extravagant luxury of women Artificial aids—A " vestiaire" or wardrobe-room of the period—Shoes—^Jewels and ornaments—The amber and crj'stal ball—Influence of the barbarians . -13 CHAPTER II. THE MEROVINGIAN PERIOD. Modifications in female dress after the Invasion of the Franks—Customs of the latter The Merovingians —Costumes of skins and felt ; cloaks and camlets—The coif, the veil, the skull-cap, the " guimpe," the cape—Fashionable Merovingian ladies adorn themselves with flowers — Various articles of dress— The "suint" —Young girls dress their hair without omamenis— St. -
Fashion Museum January – June 2019
Fashion Museum January – June 2019 FashionMuseum Fashion Museum | Assembly Rooms, Bennett Street, Bath BA1 2QH @Fashion_Museum Gallery information for 2019 3 Fashion_Museum “This collection “If you have any Online reviews from is nothing short interest in fashion Tripadvisor in 2018 Welcome of amazing.” history, you will be The Fashion Museum Bath is one of riveted by the the world’s great museum collections collection here.” of historical and contemporary dress. Fashion has the power to capture the imagination and to illuminate personal and social stories. The Museum’s headline exhibition, A History of Fashion in 100 Objects, shows how fashions have changed throughout the ages, whilst our annual Dress of the Year selection shines a spotlight on contemporary fashion. Continuing into 2019 is the show-stopping exhibition Royal Women. From March the Museum will be revealing the fascinating stories behind 400 years of gloving history with Glove Stories. Visitors can also create their own period outfit from the replica dressing up items, based on the Museum’s collection. A vibrant events programme offers creative workshops, after-hours talks and family activities. The Museum also hosts the Bath branch of the Knitting and Crochet Guild. A visit to the Museum lasts an hour or more and includes an audioguide available in 12 languages. Find out more at fashionmuseum.co.uk, Facebook, Pinterest and Twitter. You can also contact us at [email protected] We hope you enjoy your visit to the Fashion Museum! Front cover image: This page: Black silk and velvet Selection of dresses embellished evening and girl’s pelisse style ‘One of the world’s best dress by Barolet coat, 1810s. -
ROBYN HEALY B.A School of Architecture and Design College of Design and Social Context RMIT University October 2009
STRIPTEASE: An investigation of curatorial practices for fashion in the museum A project submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy ROBYN HEALY B.A School of Architecture and Design College of Design and Social Context RMIT University October 2009 CChapter1-Final-B.inddhapter1-Final-B.indd 1 117/3/107/3/10 111:28:551:28:55 PPMM DECLARATION I certify that except where due acknowledgement has been made, the work is that of the author alone; the work has not been submitted previously, in whole or part, to qualify for any other academic award; the content of the exegesis is the result of work which has been carried out since the official commencement date of the approved research program; and, any editorial work, paid or unpaid, carried out by a third party is acknowledged. Robyn Healy August 2009 CChapter1-Final-B.inddhapter1-Final-B.indd 2 117/3/107/3/10 111:28:551:28:55 PPMM Strip 2 STRIPTEASE: An investigation of curatorial practices for fashion in the museum CChapter1-Final-B.inddhapter1-Final-B.indd 3 117/3/107/3/10 111:28:551:28:55 PPMM 4 CChapter1-Final-B.inddhapter1-Final-B.indd 4 117/3/107/3/10 111:28:551:28:55 PPMM What still dignity dwells in a suit of Cast Clothes! How meekly it bears its honours! No haughty looks, no scornful gesture: silent and serene, it fronts the world; neither demanding worship, nor afraid to miss it. Thomas Carlyle Sartor Resartus 1838 (1965, p. -
University of Cape Town
Town Cape of University Sartorial Disruption An investigation of the histories, dispositions, and related museum practices of the dress/fashion collections at Iziko Museums as a means to re-imagine and re-frame the sartorial in the museum. Erica de Greef The copyright of this thesis vests in the author. No quotation from it or information derivedTown from it is to be published without full acknowledgement of the source. The thesis is to be used for private study or non- commercial research purposes Capeonly. of Published by the University of Cape Town (UCT) in terms of the non-exclusive license granted to UCT by the author. University Thesis presented for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy Department of African Studies University of Cape Town January 2019 “Clothes are people to Diana Vreeland. Her interest in them is deep and human” (Ballard, 1960:293, cited in Clark, De la Haye & Horsley. 2014:26) This text represents a full and original submission for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the University of Cape Town. This copy has been supplied for the purpose of research, on the understanding that it is copyright material, and that no quotation from the thesis may be published without proper acknowledgment. Cover Image: SAM14268: Beadwork Detail. Photograph by Andrew Juries, Courtesy of Andrew Juries. iii iv Abstract In this thesis I investigate and interrogate the historical and current compositions, conditions and dispositions of three collections containing sartorial objects of three formerly separate museums – the South African Museum, the South African National Gallery and the South African Cultural History Museum. -
Window Shopping: Commercial Inspiration for Fashion in the Museum." Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the Display of Dress
Petrov, Julia. "Window Shopping: Commercial Inspiration for Fashion in the Museum." Fashion, History, Museums: Inventing the Display of Dress. London: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2019. 31–62. Bloomsbury Collections. Web. 30 Sep. 2021. <http://dx.doi.org/10.5040/9781350049024.ch-003>. Downloaded from Bloomsbury Collections, www.bloomsburycollections.com, 30 September 2021, 00:32 UTC. Copyright © Julia Petrov 2019. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher, and provide a link to the Creative Commons licence. 2 WINDOW SHOPPING: COMMERCIAL INSPIRATION FOR FASHION IN THE MUSEUM In his work on the “exhibitionary complex,” Tony Bennett (1996) showed how nineteenth-century museums and galleries were intimately connected in their design and conception to the expanding commercial architecture of the same period. The technical possibilities and visual experiences of industrial exhibitions and shopping arcades found analogous applications in museum spaces. As Mackie noted, “Both the retail shop and the public repository are designed for the display of information that is predominantly visual: looking is a means for possession as well as knowledge” (1996: 325). This blurring of commercial and intellectual cultures within the museum continues to create unease and controversy, particularly in the case of fashion exhibitions (Anaya 2013; Gamerman 2014). This chapter investigates how the introduction of fashion—an increasingly important economic and social product in the industrial period—into museums created new connections and tensions between these two worlds. It was because of its position between the disciplines of economy and history that historical fashion entered and was interpreted in museums. -
This Thesis Has Been Submitted in Fulfilment of the Requirements for a Postgraduate Degree (E.G
This thesis has been submitted in fulfilment of the requirements for a postgraduate degree (e.g. PhD, MPhil, DClinPsychol) at the University of Edinburgh. Please note the following terms and conditions of use: This work is protected by copyright and other intellectual property rights, which are retained by the thesis author, unless otherwise stated. A copy can be downloaded for personal non-commercial research or study, without prior permission or charge. This thesis cannot be reproduced or quoted extensively from without first obtaining permission in writing from the author. The content must not be changed in any way or sold commercially in any format or medium without the formal permission of the author. When referring to this work, full bibliographic details including the author, title, awarding institution and date of the thesis must be given. Crafting Women’s Narratives The Material Impact of Twenty-First Century Romance Fiction on Contemporary Steampunk Dress Shannon Marie Rollins A thesis submitted for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy (Art) at The University of Edinburgh Edinburgh College of Art, School of Art September 2019 Rollins i ABSTRACT Science fiction author K.W. Jeter coined the term ‘steampunk’ in his 1987 letter to the editor of Locus magazine, using it to encompass the burgeoning literary trend of madcap ‘gonzo’-historical Victorian adventure novels. Since this watershed moment, steampunk has outgrown its original context to become a multimedia field of production including art, fashion, Do-It-Yourself projects, role-playing games, film, case-modified technology, convention culture, and cosplay alongside science fiction. And as steampunk creativity diversifies, the link between its material cultures and fiction becomes more nuanced; where the subculture began as an extension of the text in the 1990s, now it is the culture that redefines the fiction. -
A History of the French Revolution Through the Lens of Fashion, Culture, and Identity Bithy R
Bucknell University Bucknell Digital Commons Honors Theses Student Theses Spring 2012 The oM dernity of la Mode: a History of the French Revolution Through the Lens of Fashion, Culture, and Identity Bithy R. Goodman Bucknell University Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.bucknell.edu/honors_theses Part of the History Commons Recommended Citation Goodman, Bithy R., "The odeM rnity of la Mode: a History of the French Revolution Through the Lens of Fashion, Culture, and Identity" (2012). Honors Theses. 123. https://digitalcommons.bucknell.edu/honors_theses/123 This Honors Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Student Theses at Bucknell Digital Commons. It has been accepted for inclusion in Honors Theses by an authorized administrator of Bucknell Digital Commons. For more information, please contact [email protected]. i ii iii Acknowledgments I would like to thank my adviser, David Del Testa, for his dedication to history as a subject and to my pursuits within this vast field. His passion and constant question of “So what?” has inspired me to think critically and passionately. Furthermore, he has helped me to always face the task of history with a sense of humor. Thank you to my secondary advisor and mentor, Paula Davis, who has always encouraged me to develop my own point of view. She has helped to me to recognize that my point of view is significant; for, having something to say, in whatever medium, is a creative process. Thank you to the History, Theater, and English Departments, which have jointly given me the confidence to question and provided me a vehicle through which to articulate and answer these questions.