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24-HOUR FAX ORDERING 612·452·4298 FREE Information Available *Quartz Movements * Crystals & Fittings * * Resale Merchandise * Findings * Serving The Trade Since 1923 * Stones * Tools & Supplies * VOLUME 16, NUMBER 1 JANUARY 1992

HOROLOGICAL

Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute Read About Miniature Alice B. Carpenter 2 PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Enamel Painting Henry B. Fried 4 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS J.G. Tongue Keyless Mechanism 8 Charles Cleves 8 OLD WATCHES Miniature Enamel Painting Archie B. Perkins 10 TECHNICALLY WATCHES Antique Watch Restoration, Part LXXlll For Those Cy Felheimer 16 CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT Pivoting Rest for Clock Pivots Worn Pivot Holes J.P. Kenyon 18 TIMELY TIPS FOR CLOCKMAKERS 10 Stopwork Calculations Marshall F. Richmond 22 PICKLE BARREL Jewelry Crafting & Repair Metal Sizing and Shaping Tools Fred S. Burckhardt 25 ROCK QUARRY Happy New Year! Book Review J.M. Huckabee 26 AS A CLOCKMAKER TURNS Tips on Tool Control Clockmaking Tools and Techniques Wes Door 30 SHOPTALK How to Start & Manage a Business 47 Part 5 Marvin E. Whitney 32 MILITARY TIME The Ship's Chronometer/U.S. Naval Observatory, Part Ill Robert D. Porter 38 WATCHES INSIDE & OUT DEPARTMENTS A Dennison, Howard, and Davis Bulletin Board/20 Frank W. Poye 48 SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING Paris Junior College New Members/36 Ask Huck/37 AWi Bench Courses/42 Material Search Network/44 Association News/45 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for$40.00 per year ($4.50 per copy News in the Trade/49 in the United States and $50.00 per year, $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.) Second class postage paid at New Products/51 Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Classified Ads/52 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. Dates to Remember/56 OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Standard Time). Closed on Advertisers' lndex/56 all national holidays. PHONE (513) 661-3838, AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24-hour recording), FAX (513) 661-3131. * FELLOWS * OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE

George Danlela Gerald G. Jaeger Henry B. Fried Robert A. Nelson EXECUTIVE AND EDrrORIAL OFFICES Joaephlne F. Hagans • Hamllton E. Pease • Orvllle R. Hagans Miiton C. Stevena AWi Central Ewell D. Hartman Marvin E. Whitney P.O. Box 11011 Harold J. Herman •o---i 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, OH 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 Fax: (513) 661-3131 President's Message Milton C. Stevens: Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor went to have my hair done 1he o1her day. I As I walked in 1he door I was greeted with, Donna Baas: Production Director 'I'll bet SHE can tell us something about 1his!' Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor It seems 1hat a lady present had heard of a store in ano1hertown that had REALLY GOOD prices Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager on gold jewelry. She had visited and found that they Nancy Wellmann: Business Manager did casting. So, she took some old jewelry she was Mary Sansalone: Seminar Coordinator tired of and had 1hem cast a 3 millimeter wide band. She had 5 peg settings attached (one diamond in the center and two blue sapphires on either side) and also TECHNICAL EDITORS: had a small twisted band attached on either side. In my opinion, it was rather attractive. The James Adams Henry B. Fried problem 1he lady had was two-fold. First, she thought Robert F. Bishop J.M. Huckabee the gold was not the same yellow-gold color as the pieces she gave him to cast She was James H. Broughton John A. Nagle extremely displeased over 1his. Second, the lady said 1he row of peg settings was 'twisted.• I got out my pocket loupe; sure enough, they were installed on a line that wasn't exactly Fred S. Burckhardt Archie B. Perkins straight. One end was slightly off-center. David Christianson Robert D. Porter In questioning her, I discovered that she had given the man several gold pieces Charles Cleves Marshall F. Richmond and she didn't really know how much. Also, she didn't receive any gold back, nor did she Joe Crooks Marvin E. Whitney know how much gold was required to make her ring. It was not discussed that any gold over Wes Door the amount needed would go toward the purchase of the ring. Now she really couldn't know if her newty cast ring was the same color because she didn't have anything to compare it AWi OFFICERS: with. I find I have several problems with this transaction. She probably gave him more gold than was needed. She accepted the ring and wore it several days before she decided Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CMEW: President it wasn't the same color. She also made a statement that he WOULD re-do the ring to her Wes Door, CMW: Rrst Vice President satisfaction because he was obligated to see that 'the customer was satisfied'; if not, she James Adams, CMW: Second Vice President would do what she could to damage his reputation. Fred S. Burckhardt: Secretary When I got home, the phone began to ring. It was a bench jeweler in another part Marvin E. Whitney. CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer of the state. He had a problem he wanted to discuss. He was bothered by the way some bench jewelers were charging for casting jewelry for their customers. Some customers were bringing in gold items, having them weighed, having the finished product weighed, and AW/ DIRECTORS: demanding that the difference in the two be returned to them. The bench jeweler wanted to know if he should charge more to do casting for these customers since he had to return a William Biederman, CMW small quantity of gold; and how would he explain the two prices--one for casting and the James H. Broughton, CMEW other for casting and returning a small amount of gold? Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CMEW Che-e-e-ez! What a can of worms! The first and foremost problem I see is that Henry Frystak, CMW the customer is not informed and, as in the case of 1he lady in the beauty parlor, doesn't Ewell D. Hartman, CMW, FAWI WANTto be informed. Second, the bench jewelers are not taking the time to educate 1heir Gerhard Hutter, CMW customers. 01'/e all know 1hat every time 1he gold is melted, a little of 1he total weight is lost as impurities and alloys are burned out.) Third, many customers have come to believe that Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CMEW, FAWI the jeweler is legally bound to cast and re-cast and re-cast again until he has something the Robert L. Macomber, CMC customer likes. I find I have a real problem with this because most of the time the customer Benjamin Matz, CMW is provided with a drawing after he/she explains to the jeweler what is wanted. Also, in the Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CMEW, FAWI case of the lady in the beauty parlor, she accepted the ring and wore it for a week. Acceptance of the item, in my opinion, implies successful completion of that transaction. I foresee trouble ahead in this kind of business transaction! The positions of the Joseph L. Cerullo, CMW, CMC: Affiliate Chapter Director customer and the craftsman are too far apart, with both parties believing they are legally Wit Jarochowski: Research & Education Council Director correct. Robert F. Bishop, CMEW: Immediate Past President Perhaps you have an opinion or have had a similar situation. I'd be interested in hearing from you. Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary James Lubic: Technical & Educational Services Manager Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Technical Director

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J.G. Tongue Keyless Mechanism Modem Jeweler magazine has hon­ ored Mr. Henry B. Fried with its eighth annual LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT I am enclosing photos of a mann's Patent," with no other identi­ AWARD. Their December 1991 issue Q watch movement in the hope fication, even under the balance bridge. features a 10-page article honoring the that you can furnish me with infor­ It appears to be a high-grade move­ man Modern Jeweler's Managing Edi­ mation about it. ment, very nicely finished in every tor, Norma Buchanan, describes as the The dial is marked "Leh- way. The worm gear assembly is tight undisputed "Dean of American Watch­ and smooth in operation. The case is makers." Buchanan has displayed an nondescript and is American, and ob­ 84-year lifetime of accomplishment and viously is there only for protective honors in this superbly written article. purposes. Displaying the wit we've come I appreciate any help you can to expect from Henry Fried, he com­ give me. mented, "They even have pictures Lloyd W. Murray showing me with hair." Marcellus, MI Editor

I am familiar with your wa.tch; A one is in the A WI Museum. However, I lwve searched for the patent One of my customers has sup­ and found that it is one ofthe earliest Q plied the enclosed pictures of stem winding devices. It was pat­ a watch he has. On the main plate ented in 1864 'by a J.G. Tongue as­ near the balance is the following: signed to C. Lehmann, patent num­ "Model #2034, BREVI, G.I.G." Any ber 3100, December 14, 1864. information will be appreciated. These are nicely made and W.C.Hughes seem to work quite well. The watch is Goodlettsville, TN ro;ther rore and a nice collector's item.

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.Jlttrel Jules Borel & Co. Order Desk 800/776-6858 1110 Grand Avenue Order FAX 800/776-6862 Kansas City, MO 64106 Office 816/421·6110 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS The following is a response from famed est respect; rather, as an Englishman (Continued from page 4) horological illustrator, David Penney, who whose main interest is English watch­ is also the Editor of the "Antiquarian making, it is an attempt to correct one of Horological Society Journal." the most often repeated horological myths. H.B.F. David Penney London, England · Re: D.D. NEVEREN (June '91 issue, page 8) * * • •

Though the answer by Henry B. Fried is Mr. Penney followed the above letter with the standard one, it is in fact wrong. this one to Mr. Fried: The watch shown in the letter from Mr. Geuntert is a Swiss-made for­ I was not correcting you, Henry. gery. Such watches, bearing ficticious Rather, I was correcting what has come London names (English watches com­ to be accepted by most writers on the manded the best respect at the time--late subject. 18th Century) were made to be sold in The Dutch watchmaking "indus­ various European markets, and later in try" was always very small, and by 17 40 the "New World," America. seems to have come to an end. Recent The watch signed "Neveren" is lectures by myself and more particularly Your photos reveal an early typical of those made for the Scandi­ by John Leopold (the Dutch-born head of navian market, the names Neveren and the British Museum's horological depart­ stopwatch of the mid-19th A Witt (or Whitt, etc.) being the most ment) have attempted to show the extent century. It is, ofcourse, with cylinder common. Other markets, such as the of the Swiss forgers--so much so that escapement. The top button is de­ Netherlands, whose own watchmaking Piaget (I think) complained of this Swiss p,-essed to stop the watch and allow industry had by then ceased (due mostly practice as one that had held down the observation of the hand's position on to such cheap Swiss imports, I think) had Swiss industry. See the report on Leo­ the dial which is marked in quarter their own favorite 'makers' names: May, pold's London lecture in the Summer seconds. Sampson, and especially Tarts spring to 1991issueofAntiquarianHorology,page The fact that the minute reg­ mind. All such Swiss (Geneva and Le­ 392. Michael Ededin (I'm sure you know ister dial below has the numbers one Locle) forgeries could have either, so­ of his work) has also helped to show up to ten in reverse is due mainly to the called, continent.al type balance bridges, the extent of the 19th century Swiss train wheel's layout. It thus could as does the watch by Neveren shown, or forgers. I'm sure the Swiss have always the English type balance cock. See plate wanted to play down or sweep under the also be used as a countdown feature if #55 in the book Technique and History of carpet this practice! It is some sort of so desired. the Swiss Watch by Eugene Jaquet and justice that they themselves are now the An examination of the plates Alfred Chapuis for a perfect illustration subject of so much Far Eastern forgery. and train shows that it has a barrel of this fact. My best regards, with backwind feature, an interme­ Lastly, I must add that this let­ diate train wheel upon whose extended ter is not intended to embarass or upset David Penney pivot the minute register hand is Henry Fried, for whom I have the great- mounted (thus the hand goes counter­ clockwise). The centered wheel is the sweep (1I4) seconds wheel which is enmeshed with the cylinder escape wheel pinion. Since I have not the watch at hand, I cannot be certain for the purpose of the button at the 15 Why Not seconds position. It could be the unit that starts the balance ticking and Drop Us the hand moving. This is an interesting item of some years ago, befo,-e the invention A Note1 of the heart cam, allowing an instant return (fiyback) to zero. EXPRESS YOURSELF!

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6 Horological Times/January 1992 J.M. HUCKABEE'S TAPE 21: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Making an American clock verge. Huckabee demonstrates how to select and work raw materials into a verge for an Ingraham miniature kitchen clock­ ''Random Clock Talks'' time only.

TAPE 22: Approximately 2 hours The series of 37 "Random Clock Talks" videotapes listed below are available for loan SUBJECT MATTER: Completion of making a verge for an Ingraham kitchen clack from to AWi members from the AWi Audio Visual Library. The tapes vary in viewing time Tape 21 . Also random tips and cutting a from 1.25 to 2.00 hours and are available in the VHS format. A service charge of 32-tooth recoil escape wheel for an Ansonia $5.00 each is to accompany requests to borrow a tape; only one tape is loaned at a kitchen clock. time. The service charge covers AWi's production and shipping costs. Tapes should be TAPE 23: Approximately 2 hours returned to AWi within 7 days after receipt, insured for $30.00. Please order tape SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot and bushing by number along with your name, address, and $5.00 service charge. Send to: AWi problems and their repair. Audio Visual Library, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211. TAPE 24: Approximately 2 hours Not available at this time. TAPE 1: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 12: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: A brief view and SUBJECT MATTER : Using a custom-made discussion of a variety of clocks and tools attachment to make wheels and index plates used in the Huckabee shop. on the Unimat lathe. The custom-made TAPE 25: Approximately 2 hours attachments can be made from drawing SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring TAPE 2: Approximately 2 hours available from AWi upon request (cost to and barrel work. SUBJECT MATTER: Demonstration and cover printing and postage is $2.00). discussion on using various tools and lathes TAPE 26: Approximately 2 hours to make and fit a clock bushing. TAPE 13: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Clock mainspring ends SUBJECT MATTER: Cutting clock wheels­ and barrel teeth. Huckabee demonstrates TAPE 3: Approximately 2 hours a demonstration of cutting the wheels used how to replace teeth in the barrel of an SUBJECT MATTER: Discussion and dem­ in the AWi CMC examination. Urgos 8-day modern clock. Huckabee onstration on lathe operation using the also fashions a new hole end for the main­ Boley watchmakers lathe and the C&E spring. TAPE 14: Approximately 2 hours Marshall watchmakers lathe. SUBJECT MATTER: Using an inexpen­ sive quartz analog clock movement, Huck­ TAPE 27: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 4: Approximately 1.50 hours abee disassembles the movement and pro­ SUBJECT MATTER: Understanding the SUBJECT MATTER : An analysis and work vides an in-depth explanation of each antique American clock time train and with the Urgos 21 /42 8-day trapezoid repairs to it and using the Unimat lathe component and their function in the opera­ time only clock. to polish pivots. tion of the timepiece. TAPE 5: Approximately 2 hours TAPES 28 & 29 SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration and TAPE 15: Approximately 2 hours Not available at this time. discussion about drilling the arbor using SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents an Huck's "turning in a box" method and in-depth discussion on the design of cutting TAPES 30-34: Approximately 2 hours each making a pivot. tool bits, both hand-held and those held SUBJECT MATTER: A series of five tapes in the tool post rest. Also a discussion of designed as a teaching exercise which TAPE 6: Approximately 1.75 hours steel-its composition and characteristics. encompasses every facet of lathe work SUBJECT MATTER: A demonstration of encountered in the clock shop. Produced wheel cutting using clear plastic and a TAPE 16: Approximately 1.50 hours in conjunction with a series of drawings Mosley watchmakers lathe. Huckabee cuts SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee presents which are provided by AWi when you four gears such as those required in the AWi an in-depth discussion about hairsprings. borrow the first tape in the series. Upon certification examination. He also demonstrates how to vibrate a clock completion of the work you have a set of hairspring. excellent useable lathe accessories for use TAPE 7: Approximately 1.75 hours in your shop. SUBJECT MATTER : The Birge & Mallory TAPE 17: Approximately 1.75 hours Striker Clock-a complete study and anal­ SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabeegoesthrough TAPES 35 & 36: Approximately 2 hours each ysis of the Birge & Mallory Striker and the the process of making a knurled nut, one SUBJECT MATTER: Two tapes which clock with its strap plates and roller pinions, like those used as hand nuts in Early Amer­ demonstrate the use of the lathe accessories circa 1841. ican kitchen clocks. He demonstrates a produced in the Series 30-34. This en­ simple way to knurl the nut. compasses all facets of pivot work encoun­ TAPE 8: Approximately 2 hours tered in the clock shop. SUBJECT MATTER: Making a great wheel TAPE 18: Approximately 1.75 hours and mounting the great wheel on its arbor. SUBJECT MATTER : Huckabee demon­ TAPE 37: Approximately 2 hours strates the process of inserting a tooth SUBJECT MATTER: A companion tape TAPE 9: Approximately 1.75 hours into a clock wheel to replace a broken or to the Huckabee book "How to Build a SUBJECT MATTER: Making and fitting a damaged tooth. Regulator Clock." All components and replacement pinion for a clock wheel. details for their construction are discussed TAPE 19: Approximately 2 hours in detail. It is recommended that the viewer have the book at hand when viewing this TAPE 10: Approximately 1.50 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Pivot work in the tape. SUBJECT MATTER: Correcting problems American antique Sessions, count wheel, caused by an elongated pivot hole by bush­ and clock movement. ing with a solid bushing and the use of a "preacher" to relocate center distance. TAPE 20: Approximately 2 hours TAPE 11: Approximately 2 hours SUBJECT MATTER: Continuation of work SUBJECT MATTER: Huckabee discusses with the Sessions clock used in Tape 19. the IBM #37 Master Clock Movement and Complete restoration work on the move­ IBM 90 Series Clock Movement. ment and treating a worn great wheel .

November 1991/Horological Times 7 Old ffTatches

Charles Cleves

Miniature Enamel Painting

n collecting pocket watches, one of the factors the piece three times or colors start to bleed out and lose I that influences the value greatly is enamelled their definition. The brushes must have the right type cases and painted enamel dials. Until recently, I be­ of bristle, usually squirrel hair, in order to paint cor­ lieved that the miniature painting that adorned these rectly. The colored glass powder does not look the same cases and dials was a lost art. That is, until I recently color as what it turns out when fired. For example, the met Galina Solezneva when I attended her class on the color pink is a dark purple powder. art of miniature enamel painting last month. There are many rules to learn that Galina has Galina, who lives in Mosoow, Russia, was brought spent the last 11 years perfecting. There are only a to the United States by Mr. Carpenter of the Thompson couple of people in the world who can do the quality Enamel Company in Bellevue, KY. Galina has been work that Galina does every day. teaching classes here for the last three months. The Figure 1 is a picture of the wife of Pushkin, a methods that she is currently teaching are as follows. famous Russian poet. The actual height of this piece is First, you cover thin copper with a couple of approximately 1-1/4 inches. Instead of plain counter roats of opaque white enamel. This is the type of enamelling enamel on the reverse side there is a picture of Pushkin's that pocket watch dials were made of. The paint that is house. Galina also painted his picture and another used to color the background is made by mixing extra scene on the reverse of another piece this same size. fine clear glass (called flux) with a coloring agent or These two pieces will be made into a 14K gold locket. pigment and also with oil. When this is heated in the Besides being an excellent enameller, Galina is kiln, the oil burns offand the colored glass powder melts also a fine jeweler. Russian artists do not have all the into the background. While this whole process sounds fine tools and other equipment that are easily available pretty simple, it isn't. There are many tricks that need to us. When you need silver solder, you don't order it, to be learned. you must make it. Taking classes such as these has The copper must be very thin, or the enamel taught me a lot about basics that I take for granted. If tends to crack. You must use very thin coats of enamel anyone is interested in taking a class in miniature paint. Black and brown pigments must be slightly enamel painting, call the Thompson Enamel Company weaker than other colors. Reds must be fired at a higher at 1-606-291-3800. They may be offering more classes temperature or they won't turn true red. Also, reds the first of 1992. cannot be mixed with other colors. You must only fire Figure 2 is a painting of Christ. The halo above

Figure 1 Figure 2

8 Horological Times/January 1992 his head is made of gold leaf fired into the enamel. Note the typical Russian Orthodox way of drawing Christ's fingertips. These pieces are much better in person than in my poor photography. In fact, I liked this piece so much that I bought it from Galina. A typical enamel portrait such as this can take 15 hours to complete. The one quality that makes Galina's work stand out from her peers is her use ofcolor. Unfortunately, we can only use black and white in this magazine. I will gladly bringthis piece to AWI's next meeting for everyone to see. Figure 3 is a matching necklace and earrings in the style of antique Russian jewelry. These pieces are made from silver and painted enamels. Galina's blend­ Swiss watch case back gaskets. Assort­ ing and softness of colors equals the quality seen on ments contain 120 gaskets (2 each of 60 many antique watch cases. sizes). Refills available 2 per package. The enamel used on these two pieces is lead-free enamel. In the United States, there are many laws Your choice ultra-thin 0-ring or flat. against the use oflead. So Thompson Enamel Company 0 started producing a product that is lead-free. Now the big question everyone is thinking is: Can my damaged miniature enamel-painted watch in my collection be repaired? Well, maybe. Here are a few rules to follow: 0-ring Style FlatStyle ~ Old enamelling is lead-based, and some colors #830.400 #830.500 are not able to be matched. Almost all miniature paint­ 9 9 ings have been fired their maximum number of times. If $J7. s $29. s • you could blend in the proper colors, most of the rest of the picture could sustain damage upon retiring. Reds ACCULABPOCKETPRO and other bright colors could fade badly. You may be able to remove all the enamelling in a certain area of an C/SO CARAT SCALE object and fill it with new enamelling and then paint it hnagine, a fully-featured electronic carat to match. On a watch case it would involve doing a whole is lid over. Even then there is no guarantee that the exact scale that so small it can actually fit in color could be matched between lead-free and lead­ your pocket! The C/50 scale is battery based enamels. The old enamel is easily removed using powered (9v); however, it also comes hydrofluoric acid, but once you have it removed, there is with an AC adaptor/charger. Features no turning back. There may also be an adhesive problem include easy push-button calibration, tare in getting some of the lead-free enamels to adhere to function, memory function, auto on/off, some of the old alloys used in lower karat gold cases. Galina does not like working on a valuable watch case low battery indication, and much more! because she's afraid ()f causing irreversible damage. So, if you want someone to try it, take one of these classes, Stock #519.050 and try it yourself. D

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January 1992/Horological Times 9 Technically_WATCHES ®""

Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author)

1992 Antique Watch Restoration © Part LXXIII Maintenance of Non-Jeweled Pivot Holes

he need for the maintenance of non-jeweled is worn to one side. In this case, the hole should be Tpivot holes is most common in antique watch bushed. On the other hand, if the hole is round but just restoration. Many of the early antique watches did not slightly too large for the pivot as shown in View A, have any jewels for the pivots. Jewels were not used to Figure 1, the hole can usually be closed. One exception support pivots until after 1700, and they were not to this rule is when the pivot hole is in a very delicate greatly used until after 1800. position on the plate or bridge such as near the edge of Any time a pivot is reduced in diameter in the a sink or opening in the plate, it would be unsafe to close process of grinding out grooves or roughness, there is a the hole; therefore, the hole should be bushed instead. need to either close the hole or bush the hole. Ifthe pivot hole should be worn off-center, the hole must be bushed CLOSING PIVOT HOLES and brought back on center. Figure 2 shows two examples ofhow round face punches Although it is sometimes found that a metal can be used to close pivot holes. In either case, the plate pivot hole has been replaced by a jewel, this should or bridge is supported on a flat, solid staking tool stump. never be done on valuable antique watches. When this View A, Figure 2 shows a punch which has a semi­ is done, the value of the watch as an antique will be circular face being used to close a hole. In this case, the greatly reduced. Antique watches should be restored as material near the hole will be closed in around the hole they were when newly made. which will cause the hole to be made smaller and, at the When a pivot hole needs attention, one must decide ifit would be better to close the hole or to bush the hole. One determining factor is if the hole is worn to one FIGURE2 side or not. Figure 1, View B shows a pivot hole which

FIGURE 1

0 CD

A B

10 Horological Times/January 1992 same time, the length of the hole will be shortened. The FIGURE3 radius on the end ofthe punch should be slightly smaller than the radius of the oil sink in which the punch is used. The punch shown in View B, Figure 2 has an elliptical shaped face which contacts the oil sink near the outside edge of the punch face without making contact at the pivot hole. This style of punch face is very effective in closing a hole because it closes in the metal further from the pivot hole without making the hole shorter. Figure 3 shows two other examples of closing pivot holes. View A shows a flat faced punch being used to close a pivot hole. This style of punch is very effective in closing the hole but it does leave a step in the oil sink which can be removed with the proper sized and shaped countersink. View B, Figure 3 shows how a hole can be closed which does not have an oil sink. A taper mount punch is used around the hole while the hole is kept centered with the pump center of a special stump. Note: A pivot hole is closed until the pivot will not quite enter used to burnish the hole to size so the pivot has the the hole, then the hole is broached to the proper size for proper side shake. The broaches should be used in the the pivot. hole from both sides of the plate or bridge. This causes the hole to be crowned in the center of the length of the BROACHING A PIVOT HOLE TO SIZE hole which helps to reduce the pivot friction. Burnishing When broaching a pivot hole, first a cutting broach is the pivot hole also helps to reduce the friction. Any burr used to open the hole so the pivot will enter the hole created at the ends of the pivot hole by the broaches without side shake, then a round burnishing broach is should be removed with a sharp countersink.

January 1992/Horological Times 11 PIVOT TOO SHORT FOR ITS HOLE FIGURE4 Figure 4 shows a pivot which is too short for the length of the pivot hole. When this condition exists, the pivot wears the hole off-center and sometimes causes the pivot to bind which could cause the power to shut off, stopping the watch. Note: When a pivot that is too short wears the hole off-center, a shelf is formed in the pivot hole which the end of the pivot rubs against creating extra resistance for the power to overcome. This condi­ tion is hard to detect when one is viewing the hole from the oil sink side of the plate. It can be detected by viewing the end of the pivot. When this condition exists, part of the end of the pivot will be hidden. In case this condition exists, one should bush the hole and shorten the length of the hole, or bush the hole and change the pivot for a longer one that extends through the pivot hole. Figure 5 shows a correct pivot-pivot hole relation­ ship.

BUSHING PIVOT HOLES B One oftwo methods can be used to bush worn pivot holes in watch plates and bridges. One method is to rivet the bushing into the hole in the plate or bridge, and the other method is to friction the bushing into its hole. The FIGURE 5 most recommended method to use for the older antique watches is the riveted method. This is more in keeping with methods used in making the watch and the most secure method for holding the bushing in place in its hole. Some friction bushings started to be used around 1900. One thing to keep in mind when restoring old watches is to use methods that are in keeping with the methods that were used to make the watch originally. One should restore the watch as original.

LOCATINGTHECENTER&MAKINGTHEHOLE Figure 6 shows methods of locating the proper center for the pivot hole. View A shows a worn pivot hole. The hole is worn greatly to one side. Before opening the hole for the bushing, one should locate the original center of FIGURE6 the pivot hole. One can use a straight edge and a sharp ...... ,1" ----I - .. pointed scriber to scribe lines across the center of the original pivot hole as shown. Then the hole is filed or ···-e#i--.':j A broached out until it is back on center with the origi¥al : ./ ...... :. __ .,.' center. The broachisdriftedawayfrom thewornsid~of the hole by forcing the broach hi that direction wit~ a thin bras.s plate that is held flat on the watch plate and 1 pressed against the broach with'. the thumb. After this, the hole is enlarged for the bushlng. The outside cirble B in View A shows the oil sink an~ the inside circle sho~ the hole after it is on center and enlarged for the bushing. I Another way a worn pivot hole can be bushed is shown at View D, Figure 6. First, an "X" is scribed a.CT9SS the center of the original pivot pole as in the previ9us example. Then the hole is broached out without regard to the original center. After this the hole is plugged with a solid bushing. Then the lines scribed previously are extended across the plug to relopate the original center on the plug. Now the hole is drilled for the pivot where the two lines cross on the plug. A small center should be I 12 Horological Times/January 1992 spotted for the drill where the lines intersect. After the hole has been drilled, the oil sink is made around the pivot hole. This method is not as acceptable as the first method, but there are times when it can be used satis­ factorily. Sometimes someone else has rebushed a pivot hole off-center and the original center has been com­ pletely lost. In this case, one may replug the hole and use a pair ofdividers to relocate the center on the new plug. The dividers are shown in View B, Figure 6. To relocate the center, one should find correct reference points on the other plate that supports the other end of the pivot to use for transferring the correct center distance to the plate with the damaged hole. See View C, Figure 6. One WATCH of the reference points could be the center wheel pivot hole. If the pivot hole opposite the damaged hole is original and in good condition, one can set the dividers BATTERIES from the center hole to the center of the good hole opposite the damaged hole. Then this is transferred to the plate with the damaged hole. The large coned point PRICES SLASHED! of the dividers is placed in the center hole and an arc is AS LOW AS scribed across the face of the bushing with the other point of the dividers. (See "a," View C, Figure 6.) Now go back to the good plate and find another reference point. This can be a good connecting pivot hole, any other train pivot hole, or any hole which has a mating hole on the plate with the damaged pivot hole. The dividers are set from the center of this reference point to the center of the good pivot hole opposite the damaged pivot hole. Then this measurement is transferred to the plate with the damaged hole. An arc is scribed across the face of the bushing with this new measurement. Where the two arcs cross will be the location of the new pivot hole. (See "b" and "c," View C, Figure 6.) After the new pivot hole No. 362 ...... 34C has been drilled, the oil sink is formed and the hole No. 364 ...... 28C broached to fit the pivot. No. 371 ...... 35C No. 377 ...... 36C MAKING BUSIIlNGS No. 379 ...... 42C Figure 7 shows the procedure for making bushings. The No. 389 ...... 35C brass rod selected for making a bushing should be No. 392 ...... 22C slightly larger than the diameter for the bushing. The No. 397 ...... 35C rod is chucked up true in the lathe headstock. The rod No. 399 ...... 38C should extend from the chuck far enough to make two or No. 2016 ...... &1e three bushings. Then the end of the rod is faced flat. A • Wholesale Distributors of Diamonds, center is spotted in the end of the rod with a sharp Jewelry, Watches, Jewelers and pointed graver. This is shown being done in View A, Watchmaker's Supplies! Figure 7. This center is for starting the drill on center. Now the hole is drilled for the pivot. The hole should be drilled with a drill that is .04 mm to .05 mm smaller than the pivot. This is to allow the hole to be broached to fit TOLEDO the pivot. View B, Figure 7 shows the hole being drilled. JEWELERS Next, the diameter of the rod is turned down to the 245 Twenty Third StrHt proper diameter for the bushing. The burr is removed Toledo, OH 43624 from the corner of the bushing with the graver. (See View C, Figure 7.) Next, the inside corner of the hole is Sole ends January 31, 1992 chamfered with the graver as shown at "a," View D, Figure 7. The bushing is cut off with a cut-off tool as 24-Hour Toll Free Ordering 1(800) 537-0260 shown at "b," View D, Figure 7. After the bushing has Order Now ... Fax (419) 241-4594 been removed from the rod, it is then chucked true in the lathe with the cut-off end facing outward. Now the end

January 1992/Horological Times 13 FIGURE7 FIGURES A

B

of the bushing is faced flat with the graver. Note: When in the plate after it has been staked or pressed into the a bushing is to be riveted into the hole, it can be turned hole. The bushing is staked or pressed into its hole in the with a slight front taper to match the taper ofthe broach plate from the inside of the plate. To do this, the plate is used to broach the hole in the plate for the bushing. The turned top side down on a flat solid stump and the hole for the bushing should be broached from the inside bushing is staked into its hole with a flat-faced punch of the plate. This allows the bushing to be riveted in the until the end of the bushing is flush with the inside hole in the plate against the matching taper of the hole surface of the plate. Then the plate is reversed on the from the outside of the plate. stump and a round-faced solid punch is used to rivet the bushing into its hole as shown in Figure 8. INSTALLING THE BUSHING Figure 8 shows how the bushing is riveted into the hole COUNTERSINKING THE OIL SINK After the bushing has been staked in tightly, the oil sink is reshaped to blend the staked end of the bushing in FIGURE 9 with the shape of the oil sink. This is to prevent the end of the bushing from being seen as a separate piece of metal in the oil sink. Some tools that can be used for this a purpose are shown in Figure 9. These tools are called wheel countersinks. View A shows a set of wheel counter­ A sinks. A set usually consists of six double-ended counter­ sinks. View B shows one of these countersinks. End "a" has a disc with a square edge and sharp corners. This end of the tool is for cutting the sink and the other end "b" of the tool has a disc with a round edge which is used to burnish the surface that was cut by end "a" ofthe tool. Both of the discs should be the same diameter so they make the same shaped surface. View C, Figure 9 shows the wheel countersink being used against the end of the riveted bushing to blend it into the surface of the oil sink. The wheel countersink may be turned in either direction, although the arrow shows one direction. After the sink has been cut and burnished, it can be polished with a piece of pithwood and Linde A® or diamantine. The pithwood should be dipped in alcohol to hold the polishing powder on its surface.

14 Horological Times/January 1992 FIGURE 10 WATCHMAKERS - JEWELERS How long would it take you to diagnose the following watches using your present test equipment?

t r•• c..ou •rc10. .. 1c•~ or.••<•1•t .tf!f"• '01.n• 'tO 11tttet a t..•C'<• C4' 4:0ol•t.(.hD•

• • l:IMOllilD• 1-.TTLl•Y • • C:ONl•cn.

With lnnovative's• • Quartz •Watch Tester,• model• WT-100 you could diagnose them all - in seconds - without removing any watch components.

OTHER COUNTERSINKING TOOLS Figure 10 shows two other tools that can be used for making or reshaping an oil sink. View A shows a ...;:_;!. countersink that can be easily made by the watch­ =·=-.. ."i" I maker. These should be made with different radii to fit different oil sinks. Another view of the end of the tool is Quartz Watch Tester Model WT-100 shown at "a," View A. View B, Figure 10 shows a round Typical product features: dental burr being used as a countersink for the oil sink. • Tests watches with or without batteries • Tests batteries in or out of watches The dental burr cuts very fast and is good for making an • Easy to use - no adjustments to make oil sink as well as for reshaping an oil sink. These tools • Tests components without removal • One year warranty can be held in a lathe headstock or used by hand in a pin • Made in the USA • Inexpensive - only $49.95 vise. "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next (plus $2.00 postage & handling) month. D INNOVATIVE ELECTRONICS 64-46 84th Street, Flushing, NY 11379

.•••••• UNAVAILABLE •••••.••• OBSOLETE ••..•..•. DISCONTINUED •••••••

A part isn't discontinued until Twin City says it's discontinued! Our recent aquisitions contain many parts formerly impossible to get. Material systems of Niagara, S. H. Clausin and Langerts, the US-Benrus factory inventory, and the J & S Seiko band system round out our already extensive inventory of "hard-to-find" watch parts. TWIN CITY SUPPLY iii~ 6121545-2725 l~I USA: 800/328-6009 FAX: 612/545-4715 TWINCO 6150 Wayzata Blvd., Minneapolis, MN 55416-1239

January 1992/Horological Times 15 CLOCKS f'>tAiffu & OutJ Cy Felheimer

PIVOTING REST FOR CLOCK PIVOTS

Bill of Materials 1 base 1" square bar brass or steel, 2" long 1 disc 1.67" dia. x .06" thick

\ '\/ f:.en a clock pivot is worn or broken off, it is Unless you are skilled using a graver for locating W ~ecessary to drill for a new pivot. In order to drill the shaft center, a centering drill should be mounted in the a new hole centered in the shaft, it is necessary to hold the tailstock of your lathe and used to start the center. These shaft so that there is no runout. centering drills may be bought in sets or obtained as This tool will steady the shaft for drilling. After singles from industrial tool supply houses. An ordinary setting the shaft in the countersink, arrange the rest on the twist drill is not stiff enough to start the exact center of the lathe so that the shaft is steady and tighten the nut to hold shaft. It will wander or break. A photograph of one of the rest steady to the lathe bed. these centering drills is shown here for those who are not One should use a "center drill" to start the new familiar with this tool. hole. Then using a pivot drill of the correct size, drill a hole 0 about 2 to 3 times the shaft diameter deep. Then press the new pivot into the shaft.

MAKE THIS DIMENSION TO MATCH FROM TOP OF LATHE BED TO CENTER LINE OF HEADSTOCK #10..32 X 1/2"HEX HD.MACH. BOLT OR R.H. MACH. SCREW WITH #10 F.W. •-!>o - •10-32 TPI DISC C/ L __..,:z~::.. ------i- ¥--- I -+ .25R or 90°

0o ' 1. 75- .. ' II"~ -,- BASE in if r-: __ .I ,. 1110..32 X 2-1/2"STUD -'-· WITH #10..32 HEX NUT . 25" _, . OR WING NUT I ' ----r* ~2~-tlR TO SUIT LATHfcfL I LARGE #10 FLAT WASHER OR BRl\SS BASE-PIVOTING ~~::i BAR .06 ' THK X 1/2" W &1'"LONG MATERIAL-BRASS OR STEEL 1" SQ. BAR 2" long 1 REQUIRED CY FELHEIMER,FNAWCC

NOTE, May be made of 3 pieces and screwed or soldered lo assemble. PIVOTING REST ASSEMBLY CY FELHEIMER,FNAWCC

16 Horological Times/January 1992 .. r· ~ BROKEN PIVOT

{ i FILE FLUSH Precision r-+--- m .SHAFT DIA. I - 01.67":t.01 ~ Crystal Cutting Co. 1.00"0. SEE A-A #10(.1935") NOTE ; LOCATE C/L & DIA. ''For All Your Watch Crystal Needs" ~ I dri ll _ _ OF CIRCLE AFTER ' · o'~.,~ A SEMBLY, USING POINTER SAME DAY - -~---i-. -· r;_;f L6IHEHEADSTOCK SERVICE COUNTER DIA. OF HOLES SINK & _TO SUIT SHAFT SATISFACTION GUARANTEED ON ALL WORK INSERT - - ; MINUS .05" Suppliers of Expert Crystal Cutter SHAFT VIEW AT A-A All Major Crystals HERE With 10 Years Experience

DISK FOR PIVOTING MATERIAL .04 OR .06 BRASS LOWEST 1 REQUIRED Prices in the Country CY FELHEIMER,FNAWCC

SlllP TO: Reference & Precision Crystal Cutting Price List 23940 Eureka On Request Taylor, MI 48180 HENRY B. FRIED SEEKS MATERIAL FOR NEW BOOK (313) 287-3480 Henry B. Fried has been commissioned by the FAX (313) 287-9210 (24 hrs.) Longines-Wittnauer Watch Company to write a book on their company. Mr. Fried is appealing to AWi members for any printed material they may have on Longines-Wittnauer, including: found­ The new QTM 901 is the most complete ers, executives, sales force, technicians, and diagnostic test meter on the market. watchmakers. Also, technical printed material, It is designed by a watchmaker, for a watch­ advertisements, anecdotes, photographs, and maker, and is watchmaker affordable. any other type of material about Longines­ The QTM 901 tests: 1) Magnetic pickup of coil. Wittnauer will be most helpful. Full credit will be 2) Battery and circuit output voltages. given. Please send your material to: HENRY B. 3) Current consumption. 4) Coil resistance. FRIED, c/o AWi CENTRAL, P.O. BOX 11011, 5) Watch mechanically. CINCINNATI, OHIO 45211. It has a variable voltage power supply, is easy to use (one 7-position switch), and video tapes are available for demonstrations. Avallable from most materlal supply houses. THE BEST PART! All this for only $395.00!

For information, call or write:

FINN TIME PRODUCTS, INC. 200 Lake Avenue 700 STATE • QUINCY, IL 62301 Suite202 217-222-0391 Lake Worth, FL 33460 (407) 533-1103

January 1992/Horological Times 17 J.P. Kenyon, CMC

Stopwork Calculations

ne of the colos.sal mysteries of clock repair travel by a stopfinger fitted to the winding arbor at the 0 seems to be stopwork. The majority of clocks precise distance for proper meshing with the maltese coming in for repair don't have it, and never did. But cross, fitted to a post on the front plate. When winding, some of the high quality movements do have it; that is, the stopfinger revolves with the arbor for three turns, ifit hasn't been removed by a previous repair person. It's passing in and out of the grooves of the maltese cross. At not uncommon to find the stopwork improperly set up or the beginning of the fourth revolution, the arched part partially or totally missing on a Seth Thomas number 86 ofthe stopfingercomes into contact with the convex part or another fine movement that was designed for it. The of the maltese cross to prevent further turning. When reason for this is that one of your predecessors didn't running down or unwinding, the components turn in understand its function and/or didn't know how to set it the opposite direction. The stopfinger passes in and out up, so it was disassembled and eliminated. Both the of the slots in the maltese cross, coming to a halt when function and setup aspects ofstopwork will be covered the arch of the stopfinger contacts the convex part ofthe in this installment. Once you understand how simple it cross at the reverse end of travel; thus, available motive is, the mystery will vanish. power is controlled. Stopwork is a mechanical mechanism used on The correct technique for setting up stopwork some clocks to prevent over-winding of a mainspring or follows: weight. On a fusee movement a device known as a "stop 1. With the stopwork in place, carefully let the piece" comes into contact with the chain to prevent fur­ mainspring down to the lower limit with the proper let­ ther winding. On a cable type of weight-driven clock, down tool. stopwork is used to prevent the weight from running 2. Wind the mainspring fully while counting into the seat board or movement during winding. On a the number of turns required to reach the top limit. chain type weight-driven movement, it limits travel of Record the count. the chain to insure a safe clearance on both ends. 3. Let the mainspring down again to the lower Stopwork on a spring-driven clock is designed to limit limit. the amount of mainspring motive power to the middle 4. Carefully remove the stopfinger while keep­ coils. By eliminating the weakest coils at th~ beginning ing the arbor secure; then let the mainspring down to a of winding and the strongest coils at the end of winding, point where motive power to run the train is nil (this the middle coils will supply an almost constant flow of must be estimated, based on experience). power to support accurate timekeeping. In the case of 5. Wind the mainspring fully, again counting the going barrel, a maltese cross, starwheel, or similar device is attached to and revolves with the barrel, Figure 1. Maltese Cross Stopwork. meshing with a stopfinger, starwheel, or counterpart to limit travel. In respect to an open spring movement where the first wheel is fastened to the winding arbor, one part of the stopwork is attached to the first wheel arbor and meshes with a follower that is fitted to a post which is secured to the front plate. There could be any one of a variety of designs utilized to accomplish this task. Since the concept and end result are the same on all mainspring stopwork mechanisms, for this investi­ gation we will consider the maltese cross as illustrated in Figure 1. In this case, an open mainspring with the outside end attached to a pillar post is restricted in Maltese Cross Stopfinger 18 Horological Times/January 1992 Figure 2. Stopwork Setting.

TALKIN'G WATCH 2 3 2 Now available! A talking watch I State of the art design and functions - attractive yet durable and dependable. Perfect for: the sight impaired, ~ Overwinds but they are also extra handy for teaching children to tell time. Used as a regular time ~ Stopwork Winds piece and alarm. In stock for immediate delivery and 'priced to sell! ~ Underwinds

· TALKING WATCH the number of turns required to reach the top limit. Record the count. 1 1/2" square uni-sex wrist 6. Subtract the count recorded for Step #2 from watch with both visual and the count recorded for Step #5. The result is equal to the audio time plus alarm. difference in the number ofturns with and without stop­ Female voice, large LCD work. numbers. Black case and 7. Divide the result of Step #6 by 2. This will PCV strap. Comes complete equal the number of turns available beyond each stop. with batteries. 8. With the stopfinger removed, wind the main­ 140093 ...... $11 .so each spring fully. Now let it down the number df turns calculated in Step #7. 9. Install the stopfinger at the utmost limit MINIATURE CERAMIC position. The upper and lower positions are now set correctly. To illustrate the calculation, refer to the illus­ tration in Figure 2 and the above steps. Let the result of Step #2 equal (Y) and the result of Step #5 equal (X). Set up as follows: (X) - (Y) = (Z) =number of turns available 2 beyond each stop

7 - 3 = (Z) = 2 turns 2 (X) = 7 (Y) = 3 Set the stopwork accordingly. MINI TAMBOUR (Z) = ? Now here's a little cutie-pie! Ceramic Tambour Always make a careful study of the stopwork (Napoleon, Hump Back, or whatever you choose mechanism prior to disassembly because you might to call it) clock in miniature measures 3 3/4" long encounter any one of several different designs. After and 2 1/2" high. Case is pearl white with blue flower becoming thoroughly acquainted with the design, the designs on the front and back. Quartz movement above steps can be applied to calculate and set any style. has brass bezel, white dial with black Roman Next time we will study a method for calculating numerals. the number of teeth and leaves on a missing gear and 143198 ...... $17.50 each pinion. PRACTICE CALCULATIONS (Answers on page 56) Calculate the stopwork settings (Z) for the following clock trains: (X) = winds with stopfinger removed (Y) = winds with stopfinger installed (Z) = stopwork setting 1. (X) = 16; (Y) = 8 2. (X) = 20; (Y) = 10 3. (X) = 12; (Y) = 8 4. (X) = 12; (Y) = 6 5. (X) = 15; (Y) = 10 D

January 1992/Horological Times 19 TELECHRON CLOCKS BULLETIN Joe Runtz, St. Louis, MO, responded to Richard Porter's request for data and usage charts for Telechron mot.ors with three pages of data he has compiled over the years. BOARD Readers can obtain a copy by sending a self-addressed, stamped business-size envelope to the "Bulletin Board," A. NEW REQUESTS c/o AWI Central, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211 and mark it "Telechron Charts." If other readers have similar data that they have URGOS CRYSTAL CAGE STRIKE CLOCK compiled, we will integrate it with Mr. Runtz's information C.H. Grantham, Odessa, TX, writes: and share it with those who are interested.

We have an U rgos Crystal Cage Strike Clock in the shop for WATERBURY TIME & STRIKE MOVEMENT repair. This is a brass and crystal beveled glass clock. The Edward Beyer, Jr., Chicago, IL, responded to Howard front and back doors are missing as well as the mercury Wiseman's request for striking details for this particular style pendulum. We cannot find anyone to supply these Waterbury clock movement. Wiseman's description of the parts. We would appreciate hearing from anyone who clock appears in the November 1991 "Bulletin Board." would have these parts or can name a source for them. Edward Beyer's response is as follows: ~ . ~~ ~ I I am very familiar with this Waterbury movement. Not ~ ~ .... only Waterbury, but Ansonia also had this problem if you ~ G P.. ~{. R G didn't know how to set up the train. This problem only ~~~~=~~Jt~~~:;~-t:·~;;;;~- occurs after a movement has been taken apart and then reassembled. The strike should be assembled so that when the strike lifting arm is released from the pin on the strike lifting wheel, immediately it should lock on the pin of the strike locking wheel. The gathering pallet should have the two pins perfectly straight. Before placing the gathering pallet upon the arbor, the strike train should be released for one turn. This will allow the strike lift pin to advance slightly (will not trip strike hammer). Place the gathering pallet upon the arbor so that it lies flat or in line with the rack. The worn segment should be minimum so that when the minute hand approaches the position of strike, the clock advances into where the gathering pin will not be in the way of the rack to fall. In Chelsea ship's bell clocks, the train setup in the movement is critical if you wish the clock to have correct strike sequence. I have even seen this problem in New Haven and Seth Thomas clocks and wonder how these clocks survive the "butcherings" that are performed on them. Very few shops take apart clock movements, and perhaps that's how they survive.

B. RESPONSES C. ITEMS STILL NEEDED CONSORT WATCH SMQ CLOCKS FOR AUTOMOBILES Jim Stanley, Fort Wayne, IN, is seeking a distributor and/ Henry Frystak responded as follows: or service agent for the "Consort" watch.

I installed an SMQ clock movement into my '67 Chevrolet LECOULTRE CALIBRE T813 at least 10 years ago. (You know, the old Chevy that I Lora Clemence, Johnston, RI, is seeking spare parts and traveled the U.S. for Bulova.) It has gained one second a service information for a LeCoultre calibre T813. Since the day,orabouthalfaminuteamonthsincethedayiinstalled Jaeger LeCoultre Service Department cannot supply, we it. That is good enough for me! I never had the time or hope a "Bulletin Board" reader will have this information. ambition to regulate it any closer. Now after 300 thousand miles, it is still gaining only one second a day. The automo­ ETERNA-MATIC WATCH MOVEMENTS bile does not shake, vibrate, or otherwise bump enough to This may not exactly be a "Bulletin Board" item, but Jim affect the clock. Lubic is in need of a variety of Eterna-Matic watch move­ The quartz movement is a standard fit-up move­ ments for use in Project Extend. We can offer you a tax ment usually used in home wall clocks and kitchen credit for any you care to donate to our training program. clocks. It uses a C battery which lasts more than 1-1/2 years. I attached the movement to the back of the original ULYSSE NARDIN BROCHURES & CATALOGS clock (it never kept time) that came in the car. I connected Marvin E. Whitney, Alexandria, VA, is researching mate­ the sweep second pinion of the quartz movement to the rial for articles he is preparing about the famous Ulysse sweep second pinion of the original clock by means of a Nardinfirm. Heisinterestedin pamphlets, brochures, and flexible coil spring. Of course I removed the original electric catalogs dealing with watches and chronometers produced self-winding and mainspring apparatus. by this firm. One catalog in particular was published about

20 Horological Times/January 1992 1920 by Bigalke & Eckert Company, 527 Fifth Ave., New York, NY. They were the sole U.S. agentforUlysseNardin during that period. A reprint of this catalog is available; however, Mr. Whitney seeks an original for the purpose of reproducing some of the photographs and illustrations. Any materials loaned to Mr. Whitney will receive the special care they deserve and providers will be acknowl­ edged in the finished articles. SETH THOMAS GRANDFATHER CLOCK Milo W. Bresley, Bloomington, MN, is inquiring about a Seth Thomas grandfather clock. The clock case measures 7 feet, 3 inches high without the top finial. He has been told there were claw feet on the base. He would like to know the shape and size of the top finial and the shape of the base feet. If anybody has knowledge of the clock, Mr. Bresley would appreciate a photo and measurements of the finial and the feet. One photo is of the case front view; the other is of the rear view showing the movement at the top and the bell unit in the bottom. The bell unit was manufactured by The Regina Company, Rathway, NJ. It was set up to play only one tune after each hour strike of the clock. The unit has 14 bells and plays six different tunes.

Do you have information regarding this month's requests? Do you need information about one of this month's re­ sponses? If so, send a self-addressed, stamped business-size envelope and your request to: ''Bulletin Board," c/o AWi Central, 8700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211.

Join The Winning Vibrograf Team ... For Unsurpassed Water-Resistant ·ytat¢h'frJ_~fc~r For •0 ,.,. Over 50 Years · Testing,, of Quartz & Mechanical Watches ...

CEP-10 WPC-300 LC-1 Uses air pressure and water. Digital electronic version of Programmable. Automatic dry Self-contained, basic model Tests to 330 feet. Shows basic leak controller. tester. Air pressure test to 330 feet. leak controller. Dry vacuum tester. location of leak via air No water used. Easy to use. Used and recommended by most Uses no water.Safe for all watches. bubbles. No water enters Fast 20 second test. watch companies Simple one minute test. watch case. Today's watchmaker, repair shop and jewelry store should all have a dependable water-resistant tester in their * THREE PAYMENT place of business. And, they're safe and easy to use too. PLAN WITH APPROVED CREDIT For more intormation~or VIBROGRAF U.S.A. CORP. the name of your local 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001 distributor contact: Tel: (516) 437-8700 Fax: (516) 437-8708

January 1992/Horological Times 21 Pickle Barrel

Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

JEWELRY CRAFTING AND REPAIR Metal Sizing and Shaping Tools

he rolling mill, the draw-plate, and the draw-tongs are The rolling mill (Figure 1) can be used to roll metal Tvery useful tools in the handcrafting and repair of thinner to almost any thickness desired, but is limited to the jewelry. These tools can reduce the thickness of metal to the thickness of the metal to be reduced in thickness. The rolling correct thickness needed, reduce the diameter of wires or rods, mill illustrated is a very old one. It is more limited than the and make half-round or square from metal that you have on hand newer ones which will handle thicker metal as well as having from a very basic inventory. By rolling metal from round wire grooves in their rollers that will allow square or rectangular or flat metal and cutting to width, tubing can be made with a strips to be made into half-round ring sizing stock. There are round hole draw-plate and the draw-tongs. Existing tubing can also draw-plates with half-round holes or square ones that can be reduced in size with the round hole draw-plate. be used to reduce square or half-round wires. Before trying to reduce with the rolling mill or draw­ plates, the metal should be annealed to its softest possible state. This can be done by heating any nonferrous metal (gold, silver, copper, brass, nickel, or any other similar metal not containing iron) to a cherry red and either quenching in water or letting it c slow-cool in open air, which will render it dead soft. If ferrous I metal such as steel is annealed it should be slow-cooled because

Figure 1. a) rollers; b) driving gears; c) "T' handle for adjusting Figure 2. 1) draw-plate; 2) draw-tongs. tension on rollers; d) gears for raising the top roller; e) crank handle.

22 Horological Times/January 1992 many steels being high carbon steel will temper to its hardest such as plate, wire, or half-round, square or rectangular-­ state when heated a cherry red and then quenched in water. whatever you need. However, if slow-cooled, it also has been rendered to its softest When I send old gold to a refiner to be processed, the state. When metal is thinned by the roller mill or by draw-plates cost of refining usually takes about 1/3 of the gold and 2/3 of it it lengthens as it gets smaller. Karat gold can be reduced in size is returned in toe shapes that I request. I usually have it returned without breaking with very little limitation. However, most any in 1-1/2 mm thick sheets of 14K gold about 60% yellow and nonferrous metal will harden with rolling, drawing, hammer­ 40% white, and .8 mm diameter 14K wire in both yellow and ing, or any exposure to vibrations, yet can be annealed over and white. I also keep in stock some small plates 2 mm thick for over again. When drawing or rolling, bending or hammering, as sizing and making repairs on extra heavy men's rings. soon as the metal feels like it is getting harder, it should be Making Ring Sizes--This is done by sawing from the annealed. I don't know of any specific way to tell when it should 1-1/2 mm thick plate stock. I usually measure the width of the be annealed because so many things determine how quickly ring shank at the point where the size(s) will be added and mark metals will harden. Different alloys will react differently, and it with the Vernier calipers. Determine the length needed to the amount of reduction with each draw or roll will have a increase the size of the ring to the size needed, and then measure different effect on the hardening. the thickness. If smaller than the 1-1/2 mm, it can be thinned by A good experiment which will give you an idea of rolling. Usually I try to make it a little short so when hard­ hardening is to take a piece of brass, copper, or nickelsilverwire soldered in, it will come out about 1/2 size small, and then it can about three or four inches long, anneal it, and then take an end be hammered to the exact size needed. This method will lessen in each hand and bend it back and forth. After a few bends, you the chances of oversizing, whereby the ring will again have to will begin to feel it harder to bend; after so long it will get hard be be cut and a piece removed to get the correct size. It will also enough to break. This is the reason that prongs break on rings prove the strength of the solder joints. that hold the stones in. Constant wear gives exposure to vibra­ Making Ring Shanks--Ring shanks, half shanks, or tion which causes the prongs to harden, and when bumped or complete band rings can be cut from the 1-1/2 mm thick gold caught on something, they break off. plate. To cut out a shank, half shank, or a band, first determine Another thing to point out is that when using karat gold the width needed by measuring with the Vernier calipers. Then when it has been melted several times, it can become brittle, and by following the edge of the plate with one jaw of the calipers, annealing will not keep it from cracking or breaking when rolled a mark can be made parallel to the edge the exact width that the or drawn. When this happens, it should be sent to a refiner who calipers have measured. To get the length, I usually measure the can refine it to a pure gold state and then re-alloy it to the karat old piece of shank or 1/2 shank and add or subtract any size you want. Then he can return it to you in any state you request, changes that are to be made in the ring. This is also marked on FOUNTAIN PENS WANTED I WISH TO PURCHASE PENS BY PARKER & WATERMAN WITH FILIGREE METAL OVERLAY & MOTHER OF PEARL INLAY MADE BETWEEN 1900-1930 ALONG WITH OTHER HIGH-GRADE UN­ USUAL OLDER PENS. PENS MUST BE IN EXCELLENT CONDITION FREE OF CRACKS & DENTS FOR THESE PRICES. DAMAGED PENS ALSO WANTED ALONG WITH PARTIAL PENS AT LOWER PRICES.

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CLEVES & LONNEMANN JEWELERS STORE: (606) 261-3636 Charles Cleves 319 FAIRFIELD AVE., BELLEVUE, KY 41073 HOME: (606) 491-0354

January 1992/Horological Times 23 the plate and it is ready to saw the piece out. Using the jewelers each time it is drawn through. A wire that is reduced from 1 mm saw, the length can be sawed out, and as it is a straight line the to 1/2 mm will approximately double in length. The heavier the saw should be at about a 40- to 60-degree angle with the plate. wire the harder it is to pull through the draw-plate, so with every The heavier the blade the more gold is lost to sawdust, so I few draws it must be annealed again. recommend a 4/0 blade. It will cut the piece out in a reasonable Making Metal Tubing--Using the draw-plate and length of time with the minimum loss of gold. Also, a little rolling metal to the needed thickness, flat metal can be drawn beeswax applied on the blade opposite the teeth will make the through the draw-plate with round holes to make tubing. Many saw work easier, lessening the chance of saw blade breakage. times tubing is needed to put a new hinge on a watch case or a After the piece is sawed out, if it doesn't need to be the piece of jewelry. Also, oftentimes jewelry catches or watch full 1-1/2 mm thick, it can be annealed and then reduced in bracelet catches can be repaired with tubing. Although I do keep thickness with the rolling mill. Remember that when rolling a a stock of manufactured seamless tubing in gold-filled and piece through the mill lengthwise lengthens it as well as thins it, sterling silver and/or nickel silver, the size needed is not always so you may need to recalculate the length needed. there. Since there are standard manufactured sizes the size Making Prong Stock--In replacing prongs on stone needed if available would be difficult if not impossible to find, settings, it is important to have the proper size wire because and when found, due to minimum order costs, may not be these prongs can vary in size from 1/2 mm to 1-1/2 mm in width. affordable for the job you need it for. Also, the time involved The round .8 wire is excellent stock for many light prongs, but probably wouldn't make it practical, so with the draw-plate, as the base or side of the prong is usually round it should be draw-tongs, and the rolling mill, it does not take long to make flattened with a file. To make a good joint, the wire should also a short piece of tubing. be flattened which can be done in the rolling mill. When using To make the size you need, if the old tube can be wire I usually use a fairly long piece and only flatten about an removed, split with a jeweler's saw, flattened, and the thickness inch from the end to 16 mm which widens it to probably .9 mm measured with Vernier or micrometer calipers so you will know which is adequate for many prong settings. When hard-soldered how thick to roll the material. I usually make the tubing from a onto the old flattened prong or prong base, this will solder tight strip of metal rolled to the correct thickness, then measure the and make a bond that is strong, and when finished by shaping width of the strip (the circumference). Allow double the thick­ and polishing, it will look like it originally did. ness of the saw blade that it was sawed with, and add this to the Other prong stock can be square or flat and can be width of the 3-inch strip that you have thinned to the correct sawed from the 1-1/2 mm plate the same as shank stock can, thickness. Mark this width the length of the strip, and with only most prongs do not need be over 1/2 mm in thickness so a shears or saw (depending on the thickness) cut the strip to width. strip 1-1/2 mm wide can be sawed from the plate which gives a One end can be cut with shears to a tapered point or filed to start square 1-1/2 mm. Usually I cut a strip about 3 inches long, and through the largest hole in the plate, or pulled through if it just then after annealing it I roll it out to about 1/2 mm thick. If it is barely drags. Then go to the next smaller hole and pull it rolled out with the sawed edges to the roller, it will make the through. Remember, this metal must be kept annealed, because piece uniform in smoothness, and when continuing to roll it will if it gets too hard from the drawing, you will not be able to pull widen and lengthen it. It should be annealed at least a couple of it through without it distorting or breaking. When it is drawn to times in making this much of a reduction. This piece then can be the hole the size of the outside diameter of the old tube you are again marked for width and a strip sawed off to the width duplicating, it should be a tube with a seam tight from one end needed. Ifa 1/2 mm piece is cut considering the width of the saw to the other. This seam can have hard solder (silver or gold blade and the extra width picked up, you should come out with solder) flowed into it with the torch the same as making any one piece 1/2 mm square and one piece 1/2 mm x 1 mm flat, and solder joint. The tube can now be cut off square on the end, and after rolling, the 3-inch piece will probably be 4 or 5 inches then any lengths needed sawed off and hard-soldered to what­ long. This will make many prongs. ever they are needed for to make a hinge. If the hole is not Reducing Wire--By using the draw-tongs and draw­ exactly the size needed, it can be enlarged with a drill of the plate (Figure 2), soft wire can be reduced in diameter simply by correct size, or it can be broached to size by trial and error for pulling it through the holes in the draw-plate with the tongs. The the size that the hinge pin will work in. draw-plate has a series of holes graduated in size each being a To carry in stock all sizes of gold wire and tubing that little smaller than the one before it. There are many combina­ you will ever need would be quite costly. However, brass or tions of draw-plates in reference to sizes and ranges of sizes of nickel silver wire can be purchased in bundles of 20 to 70 drill holes, and three shapes that I have which are round, square, and gauge and heavier brass and silver wire in assortments of 14 to half-round. The hole sizes that I have are from 3 mm (largest) 21 B&S gauge. Tubing in brass, gold-filled, or sterling silver is to 1/2 mm (smallest). These holes are tapered and the end of the available, but will probably have to be special ordered. This wire needs to be tapered so it will go through a hole just slightly article is not intended to encourage anyone to get into the manufacturing business of tubing. However, this knowledge, smaller than the wire you are trying to reduce. The wire should these tools, and a lot of ingenuity allow me to undertake repair be annealed before starting, and when dead soft the end of the work that without them would never be practical. It also helps wire started through the hole on the large side of the plate. It me to keep a small inventory of gold and silver to tum out most makes it easier to work if you can put the draw-plate in a very of my work on a weekly basis. Without them, the back orders on solid bench vise, start the wire through the hold selected so you material could very well increase the delivery time to two can hold onto it with the tongs, and pull it through. You may weeks--or even months. have to experiment a little to find the starting hole that the wire In next month's article other tools and equipment will can be drawn through as it can only be reduced a small amount be discussed. O

24 Horological Times/January 1992 ROCK QUARRY

Fred S. Burckhardt

Happy New Year!

ith the arrival of the new year, we must reflect Resolved: To smile and be nice to the customer Won those little irritations that have caused us to who brings in an old gingerbread kitchen clock that think, shall we say, bad thoughts, during the past year hasn't run for fifty years but they need it fixed by the and promise ourselves not to let them bother us during following week so they can give it as a present to a the coming year. After all, very few of us are perfect. visiting uncle. Come to think of it, besides myself, I've only known one Resolved: Not to think unkindly of the stranger other person who was. Keeping this in mind, I've de­ who walks in, calls you by your first name, and gives you cided to write down a few resolutions for this year ... a hearty handshake--they're always after something for Resolved: To smile when you deliver a rush nothing. job, one you worked overtime to finish, to a customer Resolved: To be polite to the relative of a who comes in a month later to pick it up. former watchmaker, one you never knew, and they Resolved: Not to get angry at the customer who bring in several old beat-up watches they expect you to swears the watch you repaired two years ago never has repair for nothing. run right, and they demand satisfaction. When they Resolved: Not to become upset when a cus­ finally realize they're in the wrong shop, they don't even tomer, who is always in a rush, stands and taps their apologize. fingers on the counter. Resolved: To be nice to the customer who asks Resolved: To show some kindness to the per­ you to mark down an item to match the price of one they son who brings in a watch or clock and starts to tell you saw in a discount store, as they would rather buy it from exactly what is wrong with it and what you have to do you. to fix it. Resolved: Not to act bored when a fellow watch­ Resolved: Not to try to be a hero and take in a maker tells you how many watches he can repair in a job you know you'll never be able to fix right and will end day and how much money he is making. up losing money. Resolved: To show compassion when a cus­ Resolved: To forget all ofthe above resolutions! tomer tells you the charge for a repair job is too much. 0 Resolved: Not to tell off a customer who wants you to appraise a ring for three times what it is worth so YOU HAVE TRIED THEM ALL ... NOW TRY they can sell it for more money. PLYMOUTH Resolved: Not to get upset when a customer, WE ARE A FULL SERVICE MATERIAL SUPPLIER. recently returned from a world tour, tells you, "You WE SPECIALIZE IN ROLEX PARTS, don't know what you are talking about," when you correctly identify a stone or a piece of jewelry they MATERIALS FOR QUARlZ WATCHES bought at a bargain. AND HARD-TO-FIND MATERIALS FOR Resolved: Not to think bad thoughts about the AMERICAN BRACELET & POCKET WATCHES, CLOCK MATERIALS, & TOOLS. young lady who recently received an engagement ring SEND FOR A FREE SET OF CIRCULARS. and wants to know how much it is worth. • ••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Resolved: Not to show any resentment when a customer (one you've spent a lot of time trying to sell a PLYMOUTH WATCH MATERIAL CO., INC. nice watch to) brings a watch in he purchased some­ 87 Nassau St., Room 909 where else and asks you ifyou think he got a good deal. New York, NY 10038 Telephone (212) 267-4441

January 1992/Horological Times 25 AS A CLOCKMAKER TURNS

BY J.M. HUCKABEE, CMC, FBHI

Tips on Tool Control

e remove more material per minute in typical rest was shown in several views in the previous article. It Wclock related lathe work than the entire watch is not bolted to the bed, just hand-held. With the cutting bit balance staff contains. This heavier cutting rate means that parallel to the bed, our cutting force is downward and no typical lathe and tool practices taught for watchmaking tie-bolt is necessary or desirable. The position of our rest are usually impractical for this class of work. For reason­ can be frequently altered quickly and with great ease. able productivity we must alter our entire work and Tool bits which are square in section and grooved thought process. Most watchmakers will find the meth­ to a diamond-shaped surface are suitable for most work. ods herein a bit strange. But remember, we are looking for The hand-held bit is so versatile that only a few simple the highest quality result at the shortest possible working shapes will be needed. Hold the bit with the ground side time. We must never lose sight of the efficient use of our down, unlike watchmaker practices. This method is some­ time! what like tool practices used with much larger lathes. Our first step is the use of our tool bit, or graver if From the position in Figure 1, make lengthwise cuts by you please. For the highest dexterity of our hands, it feeding the tool with pressure from the left thumb. Cross­ behooves us to hold a tool as we would a pencil. Note the wise cuts are also made with the left thumb feed. In each right hand of Figure 1. This tool handle is 1/2 inch in case the right hand is your control, just as you write with diameter and 4 inches long, much like a large pencil. Also a pencil. note that it is held parallel to the bench top, strange indeed Keep the tool in motion so its edge is self-deaning. to watchmaker practices. Further observe that this is a Think of how we slice a loaf of bread. Without the slicing two-hand operation. The left thumb is used as a guide and action, the knife does not cut well; the same is true here. and a tool-feed, moving the bit along the tool rest. Practice on a piece of brass rod; a piece about 1I8 inch It is important that the tool rest be polished and in diameter with 1 /2 inch overhang is a good starter. hard so the bit can slide in all directions freely. This tool Make crosswise and lengthwise cuts with a stroking ac-

Figure 1. Tu ming with a fixed tool rest. Figure 2. Working straight into the spindle.

26 Horological Times/January 1992 Figure 3. An oil well to dip the tool bit into. Figure 4. An easy-access motor switch improves productivity. tion. We will discuss chucking practices later. the cutting area as well as act as a chip breaker. This breaks I work many jobs as depicted in Figure 2. Fre­ up the long spiral chips from some types of material. quently it is advantageous to look directly into the work For faster cutting, the tool tip needs a lubricant. and cut from the rear side of the lathe. This points up the Figure 3 shows how I drill an "oil well" in the bed of most advantage of a reversible drive system and a stand-alone of my lathes. Dip the tool tip in this little oil pocket fre­ lathe. quently to extend the cutting edge life. The belly of the tool bit should be ground to Another advantage of the absence of a bolted­ a slight radius so that it may be rolled on the rest as well down tool rest is the ability to slide it aside for making as slide. This gives the ability to roll chips to either side of measurements and chucking. Observe the rest in Figure 4.

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January 1992/Horological Times 21 Figure 5. How to hold the center locator for its cut. Figure 6. Holding the center locator to test for accuracy.

Figure 7. Drilling a centered hole. Figure 8. A mild abrasive pad will keep the bed in good condition.

Also note the motor switch indicated. I hold the toolin This is a tailstock runner that can be held in the lathe pencil-like form and throw the switch with the same hand­ tailstock when deep holes are to be drilled. Hand-hand -the little finger. In the meantime, the tool rest is set in drilling by a careful worker is suitable for a depth of about place with the left hand. I belabor this only to show that we five diameters. can go from a standing stop to precision turning in less than two seconds. This time efficiency is very important LATHE CARE when we often make 100 or more starts per hour! Keep the spindle bearings clean and flushed with oil Let's go through the process of drilling the end of several times per hour. Remember, when you make facing a small piece of rod stock. First, we face the end and cuts and drilling holes, the front bearing cone is running chamfer the edge. under great pressure and at zero clearance. Ball bearing Figure 5 shows the proper method of holding the lathes don't have that problem. automatic center locator. Press the lubricated bell against I wipe the bed with a little piece of Scotch-Brite the workpiece, and at the same time press the knob. This scour pad and a little oil. This removes small scratches and is a one-hand operation that takes a second or two. Con­ imbedded chips that affect the ease of tool rest control. tinuing on to Figure 6, the bell is retracted with the cutter When the lathe is not in use, I cover it with an oily cloth. tip yet engaged. If no tremor is detected, the starting These things will keep the machine working good and center is true; if not, clear the chips and try again. This looking nice. This lathe is about 80years old and was rusty whole center location process requires about three sec­ when obtained. Now it is mostly bright from use; most of onds. the plated finish is long gone! See the example in Figure 8. Now drilling a centered hole is as simple as feed­ ing a drill bit straight into our starting center. I like a long FORWARD bit holder; it helps to detect alignment error when the bit Next month we will continue with some hands-on work is held freehand. Figure 7 shows the type of tool I prefer. typical to a day of clock repair. O

28 Horological Times/January 1992 NEW VIDEO TAPES NOW AVAILABLE

Four new tapes have been added to the AWI Audio Visual the watches currently being used on AWl's CMEW exami­ Library courtesy of ETA Industries, Grenchen, Switzer­ nation. This program is suitable for watchmaker meet­ land. The loan of these tapes is scheduled according the ings, store personnel, and anyone who needs to know the postmark of the request. There is no charge to borrow the proper operating procedure. any one of these tapes. They may be kept for 2 weeks. ETA Quartz Chronograph Calibre 251.262/272, 251.251 ETA Industries "Ahead of Time" (approximately 10 minutes, VHS) (approximately 12 minutes, VHS) This program deals with the features and operation of this This is a general interest program dealing with the pro­ quartz chronograph calibre. It would be appropriate for duction of ET A watches as they begin in the ET A lab and watchmaker groups, store personnel, or anyone who needs eventually wind up at the retail jeweler for sale to the to know its features and operating procedures. public. Topics covered include: Historical Background ETA Swiss Quartz, Version Internationale SMH Watch Division (approximately 15 minutes, VHS) Manufacture of -.:~1e Quartz Resonator From the top of the Alps to the top of watch technology, Details in the Manufacture of the Integrated Circuit this general interest program details the following aspects Mechanical Parts of Swiss watch production: The Swatch Story Tools & Equipment Quality Control Basic Components After Sales Service Integrated Circuits This tape is appropriate for showing to the public, trade Quartz Resonator groups, store personnel, and small meetings. Motors Technical Sales & Training ETA Calibre 958.311 Documentation (approximately 15 minutes, VHS) Spare Parts The calibre 958.311 is a very thin multi-function watch This program would be appropriate viewing for the pub­ which uniquely is operated from the crown. This is one of lic, watchmaker groups, and store personnel.

I -"'. S \NITSCHI Announce THE WATCH EXPERT '-/ A State-ofthe-Art Mechanical Watch Analyzer With a Recession-Fighting Price of $1,680.00

It's clean looking, user friendly, very portable, and look what it can do: • Graph recording of the watch-beats on a LCD graphic display. • Selectable resolution (magnification) of the diagram • Automatic gain control. recording. • Four selectable measuring times. • Numerical display of; rate, beat error and amplitude. • Printer-connection for the printout of the numerical or • Automatic selection of the number of beats for all current graphical measuring protocol.* watch types. Manual selection for any special number of • Built-in speaker to hear the watch, switchable ON and beats. OFF. • Automatic search of the beat number corresponding to * Printer pictured in background is an option. the rate zero of the watch.

WITSCHI ELECTRONICS USA, Ltd. P.O. Box 2, Palmyra, NJ 08065-0002 Tel.: 1-800-882-7977 Fax: 1-609-829-2266

January 1992/Horological Times 29 SHOPTALK

Wes Door, CMW

How to Start & Manage a Business PartV Window Displays

his article is not necessary reading for those in tion oflights for the front window and lightingthe inside Ta shopping center or an upstairs or basement of the store. The long tube fluorescent lights will give us location unless it has a front window. It does apply ifour a low-cost, more shallow-free general light; the incan­ business location is downtown or in a shopping area descent light bulbs show off our merchandise better. with its own outside entrance. Our front window is a very important tool to FLUORESCENT LIGHTS attract our customers. In our modern world of comput­ Fluorescent light fixtures come in different sizes. The ers we know a program with Windows allows us to have most common is the one which holds two 4-foot tubes. an advance insight into the program. Our store window These fixtures can be built in flush for low ceilings or does this also. It allows our customers to get a sample exposed and even dropped down if the ceiling is picture ofwhat we have to offer. It is our advance calling extremely high. card to our customers. It tells a story about us and the When we are buying these light tubes they look items we carry. If our window is clean, neat, and the same on the display rack in the store. They all look attractive, this will reflect in the impressions our cus­ white but they come in different colors. I prefer not tomers have when they think about us. to choose the ones that have a yellow tinge. In my opinion, those that are marked "white" or "blue" are the LIGHTING best. So, when we are buying these lights it is necessary Good lighting is a must. Everyone likes a well-lit store to look closely at the label stamped on one end of the window. It must be enough to match or outshinethe tubes. sunlight on a bright day and to attract attention even on The higher the price the better the light is not the gloomy days. always true. Recently I bought some for less than a We must remember that incandescent lights dollar and I have paid several dollars each for some that (not fluorescent) do the best job for jewelry. The expres­ are not as pleasing. sion that fluorescent lights "kill" diamonds is true. Of Fluorescent tube bulbs seem to last a long time course, incandescent lights deliver a lot of heat. This so they are very economical. When the bulbs start to intense heat may cause opals to crack and our window darken on the ends, it's time to replace them, as this is display materials to fade. hard on the ballast in the fixture. The low wattage In view of these facts, some choose a combina- makes these very desirable for general lighting.

Figure IA Figure lB

JEWELER

I I

30 Horological Times/January 1992 INCANDESCENT LIGHT BULBS chance to try it and let me know. For a good spotlight or floodlight to show off jewelry in The principle of displaying just one item makes our window or inside our store area (including show­ a good point. It attracts attention to this one item and cases and wall cases), we should use incandescent light hopefully customers will continue to journey into our bulbs. Price-wise, the higher priced special so-called store where we have more thanjust one item to see. The "long life" bulbs are really the best. At least this has opposite of just one item in the window would be too been my experience. I have one fixture which goes much in the window, so I guess somewhere in between through the cheap ones real fast, while the long life ones is our ideal window display. What do you think? really do last several times longer. (The filament must be better or something.) As we said, incandescent lights WINDOW SHAPES AND SIZES do produce unwanted heat so they should be placed far I know you are thinking what a silly subject. Naturally enough away so customers don't feel these hot spots. the size of the window is dictated by the size of the There are several types and colors of bulbs available. building, but this is not necessarily so. A window display Gemologists are instructed not to use certain types. The area may be made very small and the rest of the store blue bulb, for instance, is a no-no. It may enhance a front blocked off. In our business we generally prefer to diamond so that what a customer sees is not what they utilize the maximum window; however, we have seen get. some very nice stores which have chosen to use several small shadowbox windows instead of one large one. WINDOW DRESSING If we are in a building that previously was Once I asked an artist friend how she would dress my another type of business, we may need to raise the store window to draw the most attention. She said I window floor to a better jewelry store height and fill in would not like her answer and she was right, I guess. the bottom part of the window (Figure lB). The other Anyway, she said that she would display only one item option would be to leave this bottom window area open in the whole window display area. The velvet or other to give a double-deck display area (Figure lA). fabric material would be draped in a manner to point to As we can see, what we do with our store is up this one item. to us. This is one ofthe privileges ofbeing in business for I have never used her advice, but I think about ourself. Remember, our window may be our first real it from time to time and wonder ifl should. Here's your contact with our customers. O

r OK, PRICE CUT WE ADMIT IT: CRYSTAL FIT $7 .00 YOU'D PROBABLY RATHER NO GENUINE AT THIS PRICE BETHINKING FOR CLEAN BEZELS ABOUT SOME WILD ADDITIONAL CHARGE TO CLEAN BEZELS $2.00 TROPICAL PARADISE ADDITIONAL CHARGE TO REMOVE MVTS. $3.00 THAN ABOUT ALSO HAVE GENUINE ROLEX, SEIKO, WHERE YOU'RE LORUS, PULSAR, BULOVA, LONGINES, GOING TO PLACE & OMEGA CRYSTALS YOUR NEXT WATCH MATERIAL OR TOOL ORDER. WE ACCEPT MASTERCARD & VISA

BUT, WHEN YOU I1Q GET AROUND TO IT... C.O.D. ORDER $50.00 OR LARGER WE HOPE YOU'LL THINK ABOUT RECEIVE 5% DISCOUNT GMNG US A TRY! DAVIS SUPPLY YOUNG-NEAL 333 W. CHURCH AVE., S.W. P.O. BOX 1140 1838 ELM HILL PIKE #116 ROANOKE, VA 24006 NASHVILLE, TN 37210 (703) 345-8040 (615) 889-0060 ORDER: (800) 533-6293 IN VA: (800) 533-1523 Order Only: 1-800-251-8580 min. $15.00 (ends 12-31-s1) FAX: (703) 344-5153 "'" ~ January 1992/Horological Times 31 ~ILTTARY TI~E

Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI

An Introduction of the Ship's Chronometer to Naval Use and the U.S. Naval Observatory Part III 1945 h. Lucite instrument facing inserts were constructed 1) Improved precision timing equipment was procured to provide for the indirect lighting of aircraft instrument for use in more accurately and expeditiously conducting panels. the trials of new and repaired chronometers. i. An automatic position plotter for aircraft was 2) A stratosphere chamber, low-temperature test cabinets, designed and a pilot model was constructed for the Bu­ andotheritemsofequipmentwereinstalledforthetesting reau of Aeronautics. and calibration of aerographs, barometers, and other in­ j. A Hagner sun-track recorder was developed for struments. the Bureau of Aeronautics, and tests were conducted to 3) A Gaertnergraduatingenginewas delivered and placed determine its practicability for service use. in operation for the graduation of sextant arcs and other k. A submarine maneuvering board was con­ precision instruments. structed in accordance with a new design submitted by 4) The following list presents accomplishments and cur­ the Bureau of Ships. rent work for the year. 1. Riefler clocks were reconditioned for the Naval a. Serviceable, fungus-resistant, plastic, wristwatch Observatory and the National Bureau of Standards. straps were introduced to the armed services to fulfill the m. Partially fabricated parts and material, for­ urgent requirement for a durable strap which would meet warded to the Naval Observatory from the plants of a wide variety of rigorous service conditions and prevent defunct contracting firms were fabricated and assembled the loss of critically needed watch movements. intocompleteinstrumentsforNavyuse, therebyreducing b. New types of anemometers of both conven­ the losses incurred by the Navy because of the failure of tional and aerodynamical design were tested for service­ contractors to meet the terms of their contracts. ability. n. The design, development, and construction of c. Extensive reflection-reducing coating tests were a special buoy marker clock was undertaken for classified undertaken for the Bureau of Ships to determine the fea­ use by the Bureau of Ships. sibility of using these coatings in special radar applica­ o. The design, development, and construction of tions. an automatic stabilizing device was undertaken for use in d. Apparatus for testing the abrasion resistance various applications aboard ship and in aircraft. and durability of reflection-reducing films was designed p. High-speed multi-lens and drum cameras were and constructed for general use by the services in deter­ constructed for use in research and development work at mining the conformance of reflection-reducing films to the David Taylor Model Basin. specifications. From the above, one can readily realize that many e. Extensive tests and measurements of paraboli­ fine technicians and craftsmen were involved in the pur­ dal mirrors were conducted in connection with highly suit of instrumentation excellence. An amazing amount of classified applications. Special tools, equipment, and intricate planning, research, trouble-shooting, and an methods were developed for use in quantity manufacture unbelieveable number of repair operations sustained this of same. pursuit. Thus, through the skill of human hands and the f. The design, development, and construction of a cleverness of machines working together, a masterful photo-type prism squaring collimator, a bearing circle production of accurate and serviceable navigational in­ collimator, a telescopic alidade collimator, and a stadime­ struments resulted for our fighting men and women. ter collimator were undertaken for the Bureau of Ord­ Before the advent of the atomic clock, precision­ nance. free pendulum clocks were used by the Naval Observa­ g. A backlash reducer for endless tangent screws tory to keep precise time. There were three types of clocks was designed and developed to improve the excessively used by astronomical observatories, viz., LeRoy, Shortt, loose mechanism previously used on sextants. and Riefler. Prior to 1920, the Naval Observatory used

32 Horological Times/January 1992 Rieflers; later, they added Shortt's synchronome system consisting of two clocks, one a slave, the other a master. AWi REFERRAL SERVICE The clocks were housed in the clock vault located in the basement of a buildingnearwhere the 6-inch transit Robert Macomber, CMC was housed. The outer brick wall of the vault measured 9 inches thick,. with an 8-inch concrete floor and a ceiling obility aptly describes the current population of insulated with 6 inches of mineral wool. The inner parti­ M the United States. People are retiring earlier and tion sat out about 12 inches from the brick wall and within moving to new locales, and businesses are moving their em­ this space ran hot water pipes which provided ther­ ploy~es all over the country. mostatic-controlled heat. To reach the inner vault, it was Many customers who are moving wish to know of a necessary to pass through three doors. Three Riefler pre­ reliable clockmaker or watchmaker to care for their time­ cision clocks, Numbers 60, 70, and 151, rated to sidereal keepers. In moving a clock, for example, proper packing is time, were attached to separate concrete piers. Each dock essential to insure safe arrival and proper setup at the new lo­ was encased in a hermetically sealed glass-dome canister­ cation. Grampa's heirloom pocket watch which many people shaped receptacle, thus reducing the effect of humidity, are using will need periodic servicing. Who can our customers vibrations, air pressure, and temperature changes. The turn to? How about AWi members? density of the air within the receptacle was about one inch At the most recent Annual Meeting, your AWi of mercury. The rate of such clocks was controlled by Directors decided to establish a Referral Service which you varying the barometric pressure within the case. The can offer to your customers. The formation of the Service clocks were wound electrically. Several times each week a depends entirely on you, the AWi member. Here's how the number of fixed stars were observed by a 6-inch meridian Service would work: transit circle mounted in an east-west position, and thus sidereal time was obtained within an accuracy of a few 1) Each AWi member who wishes to be included thousandths of a second. should send their name, home and business ad­ Once time was determined, a means of distribu­ dress, telephone number, specialty, and certifica­ tion had to be found.Navigators needed a means of check­ tion (if appropriate) to: AWi Referral Service, P.O. ing their chronometers when they returned to port with­ Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. out bringing them ashore. Also, the industrial movement 2) A file by zip code would be established at AWi and the time-conscious populace intensified the need of Central. Upon inclusion in the file, AWi Central developing some type of time distribution system. will send you confirmation of your participation The first visual signal, a 6-foot time ball, was in the Service. An appropriate counter card ad­ mounted high on top of the Flamstead House at Greenwich, vising your customers of the Service will be pro­ England in 1833. Each day, precisely at I o'clock,. the ball vided for your shop or store. was dropped so navigators whose ships were tied up in 3) Upon a request from your customer for a reli­ the Thames River could check their chronometers. Later, able clockmaker or watchmaker, ask for the cus­ when telegraphic time signals were inaugurated in 1865, tomer's new zip code. Then you contact AWi time balls were dropped at noon in 24 United States Central for a listing of AWi members in the zip harbors by a signal sent out from the U.S. Naval Observa­ code and adjacent zip-coded area. tory. 4) Give this listing to your customer and wish him Before the Standard Time system was adopted in well. It should be explained to the customer that the United States in 1883, in order to have correct time, a this listing carries no recommendation but rather traveler from Maine to California had to re-set his watch signifies that the name is that of an AWi memt>er some 20-odd times during the trip. In Pittsburgh, six who has access to the latest technical informa­ different time standards were used to govern train arri­ tion necess11ry to perform reliable service work. vals and departures. In Kansas City, leading jewelers had their own WATCHMAKERS--JEWELERS--CLOCKMAKERS! standard time and no two agreed, some showing a differ­ ence as much as 20 minutes. The story is told that "the GENUINE: Bulova - Longines - Omega - Seiko - Pulsar - Rolex people of Kansas City never did have accurate informa­ WATCH MATERIALS & CRYSTALS tion on the arrival and departure of trains, such being ALSO CARRYING THE FULL LINE OF: gained only by going to the edge of the hill and looking G.S. Crystals, L&R Cleaning Solutions, Cleaning and Timing Machines, VIGOR BESTFIT and down on the railway station." When the situation became HAMMEL RIGLANDER PRODUCTS repugnant, Professor H.S. Pritchett, an astronomer at St. Louis' Washington University, was called upon to un­ I am small enough to try very hard to please you. tangle the mess. On his recommendation, the problem was solved by the city's adoption of the Naval Observa­ NYJ tory's time ball system. SUPPLY COMPANY Each day at noon, a large ball was dropped from Watch Material, Jewelers Supplies & Accessories 87 Nassau Street • Room 208 its lofty mass, so people several miles away could set their New York, NY 10038 (212) BA7-6677 timepieces. Shortly, the system was adopted by other (please turn to next page) January 1992/Horological Times 33 large cities and at noon people watched with nearly the As the light from a star passed through an objec­ same enthusiasm as those who watch the time ball dropped tive lens, it was reflected back from a shallow pool of on New Year's Eve at New York's Time Square. The last mercury at the bottom of the instrument onto a photo­ Navy time ball was dropped August 7, 1937. graphic plate, where it comes to focus. Each star produced Shortly before New Year's Eve, December 31, four images on the plate. The times of the exposures were 1902, the U.S. Naval Observatory suggested that tele­ accurately recorded by a timing device attached to the graph companies send out a series of telegraphic time plate carriage (presently done by a computer) and thus signals at midnight, 1, 2, and 3 a.m., to announce the exact enabled the astronomer to determine accurately the tran­ instant of the beginning of the New Year directly from the sit of the observed star. By measuring the position of the Naval Observatory, Washington, D.C., to each of the star images on the photographic plates, it provided data to standard time zones of the United States. Western Union determine the clock reading when the star crossed the was very receptive to the idea, and on the eve of December meridian. The position of the star is known and the 31, 1902, they sent out a series of time signals at midnight, Universal Time when it was on the meridian may be 1, 2, and 3 a.m. The system of signals was exactly the same computed. Because the earth does not rotate at a uniform as that used daily at noon. The idea was very well re­ rate, the UT rate is not constant. ce,ived, and elicited so much general interest that it was Today, they have a method of keeping very pre­ repeated for several ensuing New Year's Eves. cise time--the atomic clock. The principle of operation of The first radio time signal was sent out from the the atomic clock is based on measuring the microwave Boston Navy Yard in 1904. Thus, radio time signals not resonance frequency (9,192,631,770 cycles per second) of only served ships at sea, but also served isolated areas the cesium atom. At the Observatory, the atomic time over land, the advantage being that the signal reached all scale (AT) is determined by averaging 20 to 24 atomic points within range simultaneously. clocks placed in separate, environmentally controlled vaults. The transmission of time signals by radio origi­ Atomic Time is a very uniform measure of time (1 billionth nated at the Naval Observatory and was broadcasted of a second per day). twice daily over 13 U.S. Navy radio stations (Figure 8). Since the earth's rotation is slowing down with The actual time signals were transmitted by sending clocks respect to atomic time, adjustments in our official time which were rated to mean solar time. Five minutes before must be made to keep it in step with the spinning earth. the hour, a series of dots commenced. One dot was sent at The trouble with the earth as a time standard is that it is the beginning of each second of time; the 29th second of slowing down: as a clock, losing about 19 seconds since each minute was omitted, as were the 55th to the 59th 1958. Since the world scientists have decided the two time inclusive. The purpose was to notify the receiver that the systems should never be more than eight-tenths of an hour mark was approaching and to allow the one who atomic second apart, an adjustment called "leap second" is counted the signals to make preliminary observations made. In making this adjustment, scientists prefer to add before the final signal. At the close of the final minute, the leap seconds to the atomic clock either at the end of the ~ast ten seconds were omitted. Then on the exact hour, a year, December 31st, or the half-year, June 30th. When long dash was transmitted, marking the beginning of the such an adjustment is necessary, the "leap second" will be hour. added precisely at 23:59:60 UTC and will end one second Later, Western Union set up an elaborate system later at 00:00:00, January 1st, or July 1st. Thus, December of electrically synchronized clocks. A master clock in the 31st or June 30th will be one (1) second longer than the local telegraph office, at noon, was set to the second by the normal 24-hour day. "Leap seconds" have been in use Observatory time signal. This master clock synchronized since 1972. all other connected clocks on the hour. Often these clocks To meet increased demands for precise timekeep­ were found in jewelers' store windows carrying the label iT'lg, a new building called the Simon Newcomb Labora­ "Naval Observatory Time by Western Union." tory was constructed at the Naval Observatory, dedica­ For many years, the instrument used to study tion being held February 2, 1962 (Figure 11 ). The Labora­ stellar motion, celestial navigation, and the determining tory was named in honor of Simon Newcomb, the most of time was the refractor type meridian telescope. It was distinguished American astronomer of the 19th century. mounted on a single east-west axis, so that it could be Simon Newcomb, born in 1835, was appointed to the staff turned to view any object along the celestial meridian. of the Naval Observatory in 1857, commissioned in the Many observations were taken and averaged to minimize Navy's Corps of Professors of Mathematics in 1861, ap­ the human error inherent in manual observations. Today, pointed Director of the Nautical Almanac Office in 1877, time is determined with telescopes of special design known and retired in 1897 with the rank of Rear Admiral. New­ as photographic zenith tubes (PZ1), which were mounted comb did more than any other man to set the Naval in a fixed vertical position. Observatory on the course it has followed in the 20th The first PZT was installed at the Naval Observa­ century. tory in 1915, and another at the Time Service Substation in This Laboratory provides more than 8,000 square Florida in 1949. It was a very highly sophisticated instru­ feet of working space for the Time Service Division and ment, fully automatic and fitted for extremely accurate the Astrometry and Astrophysics Division in support of photographic observations of stars that transit near the the expanding responsibilities of the Observatory in the zenith (Figure 9). fields of Time and Frequency and astrophysical research. 34 Horological Times/January 1992 Figure 8. Naval Observatory Radio Time Signal being monitored by the Time Service Director, April 1927 (U.S. Naval official photograph). Figure 9. Photographic Zenith Tube (PZT). This specially designed telescope is used in determining Mean Solar Time by observing stars as they transit, or cross, the meridian (U.S. Navy official photograph).

Figure 10. U.S. Naval Observatory Time Center. A view of several atomic clocks from a battery of more than 20 cesium beam atomic clocks, situated in several separate but inter­ connected clock vaults. The time scale of the Naval Observa­ tory, which is based on the reading of all atomic clocks at the Observatory, is constant to better than 1/100,000,000 of a second per day (U.S. Naval official photograph).

The Time Service Division administrative offices, equip­ ics Division. The equipment rooms contain special plate ment rooms, laboratory, and horological museum are measuring engines used to make astrometric measure­ located on the first floor. The equipment rooms contain ments from photographic plates taken with large tele­ the atomic and quartz-crystal clocks used to keep the scopes. nation's time, and the electronic equipment used for An astrodome on the roof contains a satellite monitoring and controlling the Navy's precise time and tracking camera, which is used to determine the positions frequency broadcasts. One of the unique features of the of artificial satellites. Laboratory is the placing of atomic docks and monitoring Although everyone may not have use for precise equipment behind large plafe glass panels in the main time, the Naval Observatory does provide a Time of Day conidor. This permits a rapid examination of the equip­ announcement. Anyone interested in the Washington, ment by the staff on duty and also allows visitors to see D.C. area may obtain it by dialing 653-1800. For long how timekeeping operations are carried out. distance callers, the number is 900-410-TIME. The latter On the second floor are the administrative offices call is a commercial service for which the telephone com­ and equipment rooms of the Astrometry and Astrophys- pany charges 50 cents for the first minute and 35 cents for

January 1992/Horological Times 35 I NEW MEMBERS I

ABDALLAH, Ali--Centreville, VA HEWITT, Robert C.--Delta, ID ROSS, Ted--Las Angeles, CA ADAMS, Jimmy E.--W. Paducah, KY Sponsor: Earl Babb--Grand Junction, CO RUCKER, Joseph D., Jr.--EI Paso, TX ADAMSON, Kenneth R.--Santa Barbara, CA HINEY, Alfred C.--Flagler Beach, FL RUSCHER, Michael A.--Middletown, OH BAKER, Raymond D. --Hernando, FL HOPSON, Richard N.--Pflugerville, TX RUTHERFORD, Alexander--Newton, NH BARD, Sam--Royal Palm Beach, FL IVANYO, George--Roselle Park, NJ SAFADI, Hanna H.--Grosse Pointe Park, Ml BASSffi, E. Norman--N. Ogden, UT KASSAP, Burton P.--Newtonville, MA SANNA, E.B.--Norwalk, CT BORST, Paul H.--Dallastown, PA Sponsor: Leo Jaroslaw--Acton, MA SCHOHL, Henry V.--Spring Lake, Ml CHANG, Sang--Charlotte, NC KINGSBURY, G.M.--Watchung, NJ SCHRAG, Hans J.--Maplewood, NJ CHRISTENSEN, Perry L.--Lady Lake, FL KLINGLER, Phillip B.--San Bernardino, CA SEDLAK, Robert--Woodside, NY Sponsor: Daniel G. Diya--Lady Lake, FL KNUTSON, Larry A.--San Jose, CA Sponsor: Henry Frystak--Linden, NJ COPES, George Thomas--Falls Church, VA KOLB, Scott--Hotchkiss, CO SEWELSON, Norman--Los Angeles, CA CORNELL, Kathleen F.--Syracuse, NY Sponsor: Earl Babb--Grand Junction, CO Sponsor: Barney Feldmar--Los Angeles.CA CORSON, James W.--Grand Junction, CO KUCHARIK, Nicholas--Yonkers, NY SHAPIRO, Michael R.--St. Louis, MO Sponsor: Earl Babb--Grand Junction, CO KUTCHUK, Allen--San Diego, CA STEHL, Daniel--Tampa, FL DEAL, Lewis B.--Farmington, NM LAHEY, James P.--Pittsburg, CA STEIN, Dan--Zionsville, IN DO, Minh Duy--San Jose, CA LAMOND, Janet--Quincy, IL STONE, Herb--Shirley, MA DUBRISH, Douglas M.--Twin Lake, Ml LANE, Gerald J.--Watertown, MA Sponsor: Bob Merrill--Andover, MA DWIGHT, Tim--Covington, KY LARKINS, Joe--Ridgeland, MS THANG, Tung--Oakland, CA FINNEY, John E., 111--Longview, TX LARRABURE, Alan--New York, NY TURNER, Bob--Wichita, KS Sponsor: Jay Finney--Bartonville, IL LASPADA, Anthony--EI Paso, TX VAN BUREN, Harold--Las Vegas, NV GANN, Brent D.--Quincy, IL NICHOLS, James--Arlington Heights, IL VAN DESSEL, August--Arlington, VA Sponsor: Jim Broughton--Columbus, OH OFFERMAN, Dale--Minneapolis, MN WASSERMAN, Bob--Middleton, NY GOLDSTEIN, lrving--Sudbury, MA OLIVO, John--Medford, OR WEIR, Gary--Belleville, Ml GROSS, David--Ft. Worth, TX OWENS, A.D.--Temple Terrace, FL WOLEADER, Joseph--Wappingers Falls, NY Sponsor: Steve Weatherly--Ft. Worth, TX REINDL, Tom--Sewickley, PA WOMBLE, Bud--Grand Junction, CO HALBERT, R.H.--Columbus, MS REITZ, Kristofor A.--Jim Thorpe, PA Sponsor: Earl Babb--Grand Junction, CO HANER, Tim--EI Paso, TX RIDER, Robert--Watsonville, CA WOOD, Michael P.--Quincy, IL HARTMAN, Ernest--Cream Ridge, NJ ROBERTSON, Robert W.--W. Yarmouth, MA Sponsor: Jim Broughton--Columbus, OH 0 each additional minute. The 900 service allows anyone in the United States to dial direct access to the Master Clock at the Naval Observatory. Thus, from the earliest dawn of history, all great governments of the world have had observatories and astronomers founded to provide navigators with the necessary guides for safe sailing of trackless oceans. Since its inception, the Naval Observatory has been blessed with men of great talents and abilities who have per­ formed brilliantly in establishing a worldwide reputation I I in the advancement of navigation and astronomy. Its past devotion to the preparation in supplying the Navy with the finest chronometers and other navigational instru­ ments has been made possible by a cadre of fine artisans and technicians of equal talent and competence. 0 Figure 11. Simon Newcomb Laboratory, U.S. Naval Observatory lime Service Division. Housed herein are the atomic clocks used to keep the nation's time, and equipment used for monitoring and controlling the distribution of precise time and time interval from Naval radio stations, from satellites, and from radio navigation systems. The astrodome ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ • contains a satellite tracking camera used to determine the positions of t.:s ·~~·....,.~.o;;.a;~~tr.:5-~_...... ~~~-... artificial satellites (U.S. Naval official photograph). 36 Horological Times/January 1992 By J.M. Huckabee CLOCKMAKING BITS CMC, FBHI Ao()td...

OILSTONES & POLISHING MATERIALS There is no objection to the quality and function of and traditional methods, but it behooves us to constantly strive for better methods and higher productiyity. RIFFLE FILES & TARNISHED LATHE COLLETS a. I'm making some small parts. A group of needle files ls needed with a curved tip. How do you get Into small Internal areas with 11 flle? Are flles avallable In the type I a. What type of sharpening stones do you recom­ need? mend to the clockmaker? What polishing materials are most frequently used In the typical clock shop? A. The tool you describe is called a riffle file. These are made in many shapes, sizes, and cuts and are usually obtained A. I'm not sure I have a typical shop because the from a machine tool supplier. The file is usually double-ended, collection of tools and materials have become very extensive the handle being in the central section. The price is usually about over the past 50 plus years. However, I find the items used on a three times that of a needle file. I have a few of these tools, but regular basis are indeed small in number. Let's discuss the mostly use a shop-made substitute. reason. Pick a needle file of the size and cut needed. An old one I do not use traditional materials and methods unless is good, as the curved area is usually at the tip where most files they excell over more modern methods. It's very important to our are not badly worn. Heat the area you wish to adjust. In an earning ability to work just as time efficient as possible within the oxygen-gas torch use a soft flame; and if by propane, do the job bounds of high-quality results. For that reason I recommend quickly. Bring the tip area up to a moderately bright red and press sharpening lathe bits on a grinder rather than on an oilstone. the tip against a wood block. It will form easily if at proper heat. Likewise, it is time-efficient to refinish pivots with very fine pivot When you are pleased with the shape, reheat it to a low-orange files and burnishers rather than with an abrasive powder on a color and quickly wave it in the air rapidly. The area that was hot polishing slip. Decorativefinishes are done on cloth or felt wheels will now be hard, but further back there will be an area that is soft. with the same polishing materials used by our jeweler friends. It's easy to form a small file in a quarter inch radius, out near its My recommendation is that you have a good sized end. stone in aluminum oxide, hard and soft Arkansas, and several small slips in the same materials. Keep them well lubricated and a. What can I do about tarnished lathe collets, and avoid soft materials that load them with metal particles. I mostly how can I prevent new tarnish? use WD-40 oil because it is so convenient. Most of my "stone-work" is done with abrasive papers A. This i$ an easy one. I store my collets in an oil-soaked rather than stones. Papers made for metals, which can be used block with an oil-soaked rag as a cover. Wipe each coll et with the wet or dry, work best. Norton and 3-M both make fine products oil rag when it's returned to storage. and are widely available in paint and hardware stores. Grits in the Removal o~ rust is not too difficult if it has not penetrated 200-500 range are most suitable. A small piece placed on a the steel too deeply. Qbtain a Scotch-Brite cleaning pad from the smooth wood or metal surface can rival the best stone available, grocery or paint store\ This looks like steel wool made of plastic and with each new piece you have a "new stone." A piece folded and is impregnated with a fine abrasive. I cut one or more discs over, or cemented to, a wood slip makes a great buff stick. As the about two inches in diameter and mount them on a lathe arbor; material wears, it becomes an excellent polisher. run at about 2, 000 RPM and go over the collet. This cleans very If you do any serious lathe work, graver sharpening will nicely and usually restores the collet accuracy. Cleaning the keep you in bondage time-wise. That's the reason I do not use a collet bore is a little more difficult. Try a suitable size brass rod hand stone for this job. My mode is to begin each lathe job with with a household cleaning powder. Wash and dry well and coat several gravers freshly sharpened of each type expected to be with oil. Most lightly rusted collets can be redeemed. O used. This may mean sharpening a dozen gravers at the time. I have a group of wood discs fitted with abrasive paper surfaces and suitable tang to fit a lathe coll et. I use 5/32" plywood about 2-1 /2" in diameter with a tang for a #32 collet. The objective If you have a question, please write: is that the disc can flex and serve as a soft-back grinder. Most •Ask Huck,• c/o Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, gravers can be sharpened in a lot at the rate of two per minute. 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211. Now that is a real time-saver!

January 1992/Horological Times 37 WATtJHE~ Robert D. Porter, CMW

Throughout the centuries There were men Who took first steps A Dennison, Howard, and Davis Down new roads Armed with nothing From Waltham, MA But their own vision. Ayn Rand

anufacturing watches on the It was not until Aaron Lufkin In 1833 he left Brunswick Minterchangeable system by Dennison (1812-1895) arrived on and began working for Currier & machine methods had been the goal the scene that "interchangeability" Trot, of Boston, and later for Jones, of several early American watch­ began to take on its true meaning. Low & Ball. He also worked in New makers. Luther Goddard ( 1762- Aaron Dennison began serving his York City. In 1839, at age 27, he 1842) had manufactured around watchmaking apprenticeship in . was back in Boston in business for 600 watches by making extensive 1830 under James Carey of Brun­ himself where he did repairing for use of imported parts. swick, ME. the trade, and also carried a line of Two brothers, James and Henry Pitkin, of East Hartford, CT, placed the first American machine­ made watch on the market in 1838. They found that they could not compete with imported watches, and abandoned their manllfactur­ ing effort after about 800 move­ ments had been made.

Figure 1 Figure 2 Figure3

Figure4 Figure 5 Figure 6

38 Horological Times/January 1992 tools and materials. He had also American Horologe Company was holding the movement in the case given considerable thought to the completed in the summer of 1850 was removed so it could be taken idea of making watches by machin­ in a small factory that was built out of the case for servicing. ery on the interchangeable plan, opposite the Howard and Davis A carefully selected screw­ meaning that parts would be made shop. The prototype watch was an driver is shown removing the single so alike that selective assembly and eight-day model and was unsuc­ screw holding the balance bridge fitting would be eliminated to a cessful. It was replaced by a one­ in place on the upper plate in Fig­ large extent. It was during this time day watch. After about a year, the ure 3. The balance bridge is being that he invented the Dennison name of the company was changed lifted from the movement in Figure Standard Gage for measuring the to The Warren Manufacturing 4. width and thickness of mainsprings. Company, and the first 100 watches Figure 5 illustrates the The Dennison system for measur­ bearing the name "Warren" reached removal of the screw holding the ing mainsprings is still in use to­ the market around 1853. The next hairspring stud to the upper plate. day. 600-700 watches carried the name The balance wheel assembly is being Most of the precision meas­ "Samuel Curtis." The company then lifted from the movement in Figure uring devices we take for granted went through another name change 6. Figure 7 is a good view of the today had not yet been invented in to become The Boston Watch upper plate. A piece of watch tissue Dennison's day. For example, the Company. A new factory was built is protecting the dial as the second "Systeme Palmer" prototype of the in 1854 in Waltham, Massachu­ hand is removed in Figure 8. Figure outside micrometer was patented setts, and the movements were 9 shows the use of a slotted piece of by Jean Palmer in France in 1848. engraved "Dennison, Howard, and 35 mm film to protect the dial as Joseph R. Brown and Lucian Sharpe Davis." Other names were used as the hour and minute hands are saw this tool during their visit to well. It is believed that fewer than pulled. the Paris Exposition and introduced 5,000 watches were produced in One of the three tapered their American version of the first Waltham before the company failed pins holding the dial in place is practical micrometer in 1867 as a in 1857 because of a severe eco­ being levered out with a screw­ pocket sheet metal gage. J.R. Brown nomic recession. driver in Figure 10. Figure 11 is a had, however, invented the Vernier At first glance, the hunting good view of the movement under caliper in 1851 which was capable cased key-wind and set watch the dial. The bar bridge has been of measuring to 0.001". His caliper shown in Figure 1 appears to be removed to show the simple and was based on the work of Pierre rather ordinary. Figure 2, however, efficient ratchet and click arrange­ Vernier, who invented the Vernier reveals that it is a rare Dennison, ment in Figure 12. Before the bridge principle in 1631. Howard and Davis, 13-jewel watch, was removed, a screwdriver was The forerunner of the mod­ number 4509, of approximately 18 used (carefully) to hold the click ern dial indicator was invented by size, circa 1856. The single screw John Logan, a watchmaker from Waltham, Massachusetts, around 1890. These precision measuring tools came too late to be of use to pioneeringAmerican watchmakers who not only had to invent the watch they wanted to make, but also had to invent the manufactur­ ing machinery and the means of precisely measuring to mica-inch tolerances the parts they produced! In addition to being an in­ novative watchmaker, Aaron Den­ Figure 7 Figure 9 nison was evidently a good sales­ man as well. He interested Edward Howard, a prominent Boston clock­ and scale-maker, in his dream of making large quantities of high­ quality watches on the interchange­ able plan. Howard's partner, David Porter Davis, was also included in the enterprise. Samuel Curtis, a successful Boston businessman, also invested in the new company. The first watch model of the Figure 8 Figure 10 January 1992/Horological Times 39 Figure 11 Figure 12 Figure 13

Figure 14 Figure 15 Figure 16

Figure 17 Figure 18 Figure 19 away from the ratchet slightly so the mainspring could be let down by allowing the winding key to slip through the fingers. Figure 13 is a good view of the hour and minute wheels before they were removed. The screws holding the barrel bridge in place are being taken out in Figure 14. Figure 15 shows the bridge being lifted from the movement. The upper main plate Figure 20 is being lifted from the movement in Figure 16. The first of three screws Figure 1 7 is a good view of holding the cap jewel setting in the train layout and the English place is being removed in Figure style escape wheel and pallet. 20. Figure 21 is a view of the intri­ The two screws holding the cately engraved balance bridge. lower balance ahd hole jewels in The mainspring barrel is place are being removed in Figure shown with its highly polished arbor 18. A jewel pusher is shown in in Figure 22. The mainspring has Figure 19 removing the jewels in been removed from its barrel in their settings for ultrasonic clean­ Figure 23. Please notice the num­ Figure 21 ing. ber nine stamped in the barrel for

40 Horological Times/January 1992 tracking purposes. Figure 24 is a view of the underside of the top plate which also carries a serial number. Figures 25 and 26 are views of the train and escapement components of this well-made watch. The four blued plate screws shown in Figure 27 suggest that a high degree of uniformity in manu­ Figure 22 Figure 23 facturing had been achieved. The movement has been cleaned, and a pivot in its large, clear jewel is being oiled during assembly in Figure 28. The excel­ lence of the jeweling and the per­ fect fit of the settings and screws is the result of the countersinking and jeweling tools invented by Napoleon Bonaparte Sherwood ( 1823-1872), a mechanical genius in charge of jeweling at the Waltham Figure 24 Figure 25 factory. He was educated as a medical doctor and dentist, but was also fascinated by watchmaking. The cannon pinion is being pressed onto its center wheel arbor in Figure 2 9. Figure 30 is a good view of the tooth forms of the minute wheel and its pinion. The spacing of the teeth is excellent, suggesting that the means of precisely dividing the circle had been mastered. Figure 26 Figure 27 The setting square of the cannon pinion has been positioned in Figure 31, so the hour and min­ ute hands can be precisely aligned at 12 o'clock. Figure 32 is a good view of the dial and hands. The orientation of the numerals on the seconds dial is interesting.

Figure 28 Figure 29

:·

Figure 30 Figure 31 Figure 32

January 1992/Horological Times 41 Figure 33 Figure 33 shows the roller table and its jewel in position on Figure 34 Figure 35 the balance staff. The staff is ta­ pered, meaning that the taper of early entrepreneurs helped chart both the staff and roller table must the stomy seas of uncertainty for be made to extremely close toler­ those successful companies that ances to assure that the roller will followed. fit tightly enough on the staff at Some of the historical infor­ exactly the right height. mation in this article is from The The watch is back together Watch Factories qfAmerica by Herny again in Figure 34 and is running G. Abbott, published in 1888 by smoothly. Figure 35 is a close-up George K. Hazlitt & Co. view of the balance wheel in action. Other recommended read­ The movement is back in its ings for those of you who enjoy a-­ Figure 36 case in Figure 36. It is always a historical perspective include: A Pio­ pleasure to service one of these neer, a history of the American Co., Exeter, NH); Two Hundred Years historically important timepieces, Waltham Watch Company of of American Clocks & Watches by and to know that dreams can come Waltham, Mass., by Henry G. Ab­ Chris Bailey. true. The lessons learned by these bott (available from Adams Brown 0

AWi BENCH COURSES

To register for these coursesJ please send along With your request a 22-23-400-Day Clock Repair--Albuquerque, NM registration fee of $25.00 per lna1ruction day (for AWi members) to: AWi 22-23--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Orlando, FL Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. PLEASE NOTE: Regis­ 22-23--Repair of the Atmos Clock--New York, NY trations are limited and will be selected by the earliest postmarks. Y-ou may register by Fax if you wish; if so; please Include your Visa or MasterCard 23--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair--Ellisville, MS number, card expiration date, and signature. FAX: (513) 661-3131; IN­ 23--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Phoenix, AZ. FORMATION: (513) 661-3838. MARCH 1992 14-15--400-Day Clock Repair--Trenton, NJ JANUARY 1992 20-21--400-Day Clock Repair--Orlando, FL 17-19--Advanced Clock Repair--Alexandria, VA 21-22--Repair of the Atmos Clock--Denver, CO 17-19--Advanced Lathe--Kansas City, MO 21-22--Beginning Lathe--Orlando, FL 18-19--400-Day Clock Repair--Boston, MA 22-23--Striking Clocks--Orlando, FL 18-19--Repair of the Atmos Clock--Los Angeles, CA 27-29--Advanced Lathe--Orlando, FL 19--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair--Atlanta, GA 29--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--Bay Area, CA 19--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Repair-- Albuquerque, NM APRIL 1992 25-26--Cuckoo Clock Repair--Phoenix, AZ. 11-12--Beginning Lathe--Albuquerque, NM 25-26--400-Day Clock Repair-- Austin, TX 24-26--Advanced Lathe--Albuquerque, NM 26--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs--San Diego, CA MAY 1992 FEBRUARY 1992 9-10--Beginning Lathe--Alexandria, VA 8-9--Beginning Lathe--San Diego, CA 15-17--Advanced Lathe--Alexandria, VA 14-15--400-Day Clock Repair--Pittsburgh, PA 14-16--Advanced Lathe--San Diego, CA JUNE 1992 16--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair--Albuquerque, NM 13-14--Beginning Lathe--New York, NY 16-17--Striking Clocks--Pittsburgh, PA 19-21--Advanced Lathe-New York, NY

42 Horological Times/January 1992 Watch Technology in the New Computers

By

Charles A. Sauter

n the last decades, a field of computer use slow­ the time we got serious about doing it, our supplier went I ly developed which has been called character out of business, and we got deeply involved in a hot recognition. One form of it was used to correct school project, laid off some key people, and you know how it exam papers by looking at the written answer and turns out. seeing that it is 0 or X, + or -, Y or N, etc., and by About this time, several computer companies comparing these answers with a master set, scoring the started up to make the desk-top personal computer papers and printing out the results. smaller and lighter so it could be carried along on trips. The Post Office uses character recognition to With people crammed into airplanes to make a fast decide where to send an envelope with a state abbrevia­ buck, this smaller computer got to be known as the lap tion and a zip code written on it by the sender. The cash top computer, and it rapidly took over much of the desk­ register computer at the supermarket reads the bar top business. The pressure was intense to drop the 20 codes on product packages and prints out the item and pounds to 5 pounds, use less power to run longer on the price, adds the total, computes the tax, shows the smaller rechargeable batteries, and get the cost down to department source, and says "Have a nice day," or "You where people in the tourist section in the back of the are parked in a fire zone." In the background, it reorders airplane could afford them, too. the emptied display bin contents, supplies the informa­ A company called Linus was started up in Vir­ tion the IRS wants, and heaven (Armonk, NY)* only ginia by some experts who came up with the brilliant knows what else. idea of using character recognition techniques to read During this period, I was asked to help work out hand-written input, and throw away the keyboard. a system for my employer, Timex, to use character Their first units were a smashing success. They decided recognition techniques to identify watches returned for that ifit was going to be a winner, they should improve repair. We went to visit a company in Massachusetts the displays' coarse resolution. This caused immediate that was making a system for use by a Pennsylvania problems with electrical connections to the edges of the peanut company to separate the stones and pebbles display. from the peanuts. We started offon the wrong foot when I had retired and set up my shop to enjoy myself our helicopter set us down at the wrong airport while doing not much, and they came to me for help. We the plant manager, waiting for us at the right airport, worked out solutions for several of their problems, some was cooling his heels and probably cursing his luck--and closely related to the connections used in watches to his prospective customers. I very much enjoyed looking connect the liquid crystal displays (LCDs) to the printed down on the Waltham Watch Factory on the Charles circuit boards (PCBs). With this superior assistance, River while we changed airports, and thinking how Linus promptly went out ofbusiness. DGC, the consult­ much the world has changed. ing firm that came to me, had developed much of the While the technology then was unable to recog­ technology for the thin, conductive film used to allow nize, say, 1000 different styles of watches so the right writing to be done on the face of the display. After Linus, parts could be ordered, I finally realized that it could tell other firms came to us for help. Again, much of the a big (men's) watch from a small (ladies') watch, which technology they needed was closely associated to the changed the picture to recognizing only 500. It could work done to develop the electronic watch and its also tell chrome from gold, changing the number to 250. displays, which we had been involved with from its After going through a few more steps, it got the number beginning, when we helped Optel and other companies down to about 10, which the system could handle. As is in Princeton, New Jersey who had spun off from Radio rather normal for fast-moving modern technology, by Corporation of America (RCA) labs there, where the *IBM Headquarters January 1992/Horological Times 43 liquid crystal displays were born. The use of the trans­ parent, electrically conductive film of vacuum-depos­ ited indium-tin oxides UTO) was their key to solving the problems in trying to use the electrically switched-on, AWi optically polarizing action of the liquid crystals. Thus, you can see that the latest shooting star in the computer Material Search business, the pen top computer, with which you can write on the display to bypass the use of the keyboard (the joystick, or the rolling ball [mouse] input compo­ Network nents) can trace its ancestry back through several paths to the watch industry. You can also see that many segments of modern scientific developments are experi­ EDITOR'S NOTE: This column is designed to encing more and more need for technical ability and work in conjunction with the AWI Movement know-how in very small-sized products and compo­ Bank. If you can supply any of the items listed nents, which is inherent in the watchmaking field. Look here, please send details to the Material Search around you, and you will find lots of need for your skills Network. Do not send the items. Members at high pay. Widen your skills, and the pay gets higher requesting these items will be advised of their yet. availability and will contact you direct. If I ever get around to it, I may help you peek into some other fields that the watch industry has been involved with, including high vacuum, machine tools, AA2 Hamilton 924 18 size balance complete, optical instruments, electronics, metallurgy, medical Part #243. instruments, radio (it's 10 p.m Bulova watch time), television (it takes a licking and keeps on ticking), If you can supply any of these items, please ultrasonics, communications, weapons, nuclear energy, contact: AWi Material Search Network, AWi and so on, or better yet, I may stir up some other people, Central, P.O. Box 11011, Cinc:fnnatl, OH 45211; who know more and can write better, to keep you Fax (513) 661-3131. entertained (do you read me, Lou Zanoni, Henry Fried, Bill Bennett, Marv Whitney, Al Einstein?). Over and out. 10-4.

1992 HOROLOGICAL TOUR WITH HENRY FRIED On May 4, 1992 the 18th annual AWi Horological Tour will be highlighted with attendance at the World Expo in Spain's Seville. Auspiciously, we start in Paris with its historical and dramatic sights and entertainments which include attendance at the Follies Bergere. Horologically, we will visitthe French industry headquarters and a factory. For the collector, the Museum of et Metiers is one of the world's best and most interesting. A planned meeting with officers and members of France's ANCAHA, the equivalent of America's NAWCC collector group, will be included. Other Parisian attractions such as the Louvre, famous Marche de Pouce (flea market) beckon as well. With our Parisian headquarters of three days we also visit the Chateau country nearby, am ust even for those who've been to Paris before. We also visit Blois, the origin of enameling on watches in the 1600s. The Chartres Cathedral, whose beauty of construction, stained windows, original engineering construction and architecture (and probably one of the most photogenic sundials) which attracts scholars, art historians, and architects, will be on our list of visits. A French "Bullet Train• ride to Geneva will provide an opportunity to visit the Patek Philippe factory and museum to which we have been invited as well as other famous watch factories, time permitting. The Geneva horological museum also contains many rare examples of the horologists' art. In nearby Anemasse, a name familiar to watchmakers, is a factory producing for this industry. On a clear day from Lake Geneva, one can see the peaks of Mont Blanc, highest in Europe. However, not only can we see it from Geneva, but we will visit it at hand. From interesting and attractive Chamonix, we ascend this great mountain to its 12,610-foot level by cable car, where it is possible to see into three countries. We leave Geneva for Spain's capitol, Madrid. The Prado museum is one of the world's finest. Madrid itself has a clock and watch museum as well as the famous Royal Palace collection of clocks acquired by Charles III, a rabid clock buff in 1770. From Madrid, we travel to Seville via their latest high-speed train. Seville, famed in history, opera legend and drama will in 1992 be the site of the World's Expo '92. We will visit the Fair for a full-day visit with meals. Going into southern Spain, we visit the clock and watch museum in Jerez de Frontenac, owned and operated by the owner of one of the most known bodegas. In our visit many years ago, the tour director, horologists, and guides were most gracious hosts. With our headquarters in Marabella, we will, radiate daily to memorable Malaga, Granada, Costa Del Sol, Fuengirola, the Generalife and other places en route. On this tour, all meals will be provided. Write for the detailed brochure and join us for a memorable experience and good fellowship. Horologically and touringly yours, Henry B. Fried

44 Horological Times/January 1992 ASSOCIATION NEWS

ARIZONA CALIFORNIA The Arizona Watchmakers, Clockmakers & Jewelers Guild, Tucson, AZ, held their first meeting of the fall on November 12, 1991. The meeting started off with an informative talk by Mr. Stephen Neeley, Pima County Prosecuting Attorney. He discussed local and state crime, statistics imprisonment, and future imprison­ ment of criminals vs. the current political system. The following officers were elected to serve in 1992: Paul Hunt, president; Gene Hendrick, vice presi­ dent; Dale Thompson, treasurer; and Bill Walkling, secretary.

Shown above is part of the group from the San Diego Horologi­ * * * * * cal Society who toured Seiko in El Segundo, CA on October 21, 1991. Also shown in the photo are Scott Chou, Technical At the November 19, 1991 meeting of the Arizona Administrator for Seiko (seated, second from right) and Gary Clockmakers & Watchmakers Guild a presentation on Yale, Executive of Seiko (seated, far right). The group toured the Cuckoo Clock Repair was made by member Jim Pickard. repair department and packing department and were shown how Jim took theAWI Bench Course on Cuckoo Clock Repair they assembled most of the watches. Following the tour and last year and shared his knowledge and experience. lunch, a seminar on the Seiko IQ watch was given by Scott Chou. The second part of the program was a video on the two large rivers of Arizona which flow all year NORTH DAKOTA round. The Salt and Verde Rivers are largely respon­ The North Dakota Jewelers and Watchmakers Associa­ sible for the development of the Phoenix area. Without tion held their 40th Annual Convention at the Radisson these rivers, Phoenix would be desert. Hotel, Fargo, ND, on September 13-15, 1991. The guest speakers were Leonard Zell with a presentation on answering customer objections and selling fine jewelry, J.M. Allbritton with a program on "Counter Sketching" from GIA, and James B. Osmanski from Dixon Insurance, Inc.

Members of the North Dakota Jewelers & Watchmakers Asso­ Pictured above is Tom White, President of the Arizona Clock­ ciation enjoying the Saturday evening banquet are (left to right): makers & Watchmakers Guild, holding the briefcase which was Alan Herrud, Rick Kaiser, Ed Olson, Mrs. Herrud, and Mrs. donated in the memory of Dr. Joseph Baier for the guild's Olson. president's use. (Please turn to the next page)

WHAT'S UP WITH YOU? Your fellow members want to know. Write us with your association's news The plaque affixed as fast as it happens! to the briefcase.

January 1992/Horological Times 45 and theft. In robbery, force is used. In burglary, entry ASSOCIATION NEWS into vacated premises at night is the usual operation. In (Continued from the previous page) theft, the grab-and-run action is most common. Ifa call is made to stop a robbery when actually a non-violent burglary or theft crime has occurred, the police may NEW YORK arrive with drawn guns and a suspicious move may James B. White addressed The Horological Society of cause unnecessary bloodshed. New York on November 4, 1991 at the Novotel Hotel on the subject of crime prevention. Mr. White, President and Counsel of the Jewelers Security Alliance, heads an organization which supplies crime prevention informa­ UPCOMING CONVENTIONS tion to its 9,500 members. Formerly, Mr. White was Assistant United States Attorney for Southern New April 3-5, 1992 York. He was involved in the Special Prosecutor Section Virginia Jewelers Association and also participated in Attorney General Robert Ken­ and The Horological Association of Virginia nedy's program against organized crime. He also served Annual Convention in the Federal Bureau of Investigation and in the Embassy Suites Hotel -- Richmond, VA Waterfront Commission of New York Harbor. Mr. White reported that among the services his May 16-17, 1992 organization renders is a publication which is issued Arizona Clockmakers & Watchmakers Guild periodically. It usually includes a warning photo of a Annual Convention swindler-at-large who preys on jewelers. His talk was Las Campanas Quality Inn -- Cottonwood, AZ filled with practical tips on how to deal with crime. In some instances, they seemed trivial, but, on examina­ May 21-23, 1992 tion, proved profoundly significant. For example, he Texas Watchmakers Association stressed that in reporting a crime to the police it was Annual Convention necessary to differentiate between robbery, burglary, Wyndham Hotel at Southpark -- Austin, TX

NORTH CE·NTRAL TECHNICAL CONCLAVE APRIL 30, MAY 1 & 2, 1992

The North Central Technical Conclave will be held in Madison, Wisconson. A planning committee representing AWi Central, The Central Illinois Watchmakers Association, The Minnesota Watch & Clockmakers Association, and The Wisconsin Horological Society have developed the North Central Technical Conclave. The Conclave will be held in Madison, WI on April 30 - May 2, 1992. Individuals in the North Central states will be able to select from the following educational opportunities:

Advanced Quartz Watch Repair Atmos Clock Repair Advanced Clock Repair Cuckoo Clock Repair ETA Quartz Chronograph Hairspring Vibrating Modern Chime Clocks Jewelry Repair Crystal Fitting Clockmakers Lathe Mechanical Chronographs Clock Repair Techniques Management for Watch/Clockmakers Perpetual Calendars/Modern Watches

Also, a Saturday Seminar will feature presentations from industry leaders.

Contact any of the sponsoring associations or AWi Central for a brochure giving complete details and registration information. AWi Central, P.O. Box 11011, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211. o

46 Horological Times/January 1992 A very thorough engineer, clockmaker, drafts­ man, and model-maker, Mr. Smith has taken these BOOK REVIEW choice topics, computerized, and expanded each of the articles with additional illustrations. He even has set the type on his own presses, made new photographs and CLOCKMAKING TOOLS AND TECHNIQUES by W.R. line drawings, and in-house printed, punched, and Smith, BSME, FBIIl, FNAWCC, CMC. 8-1/4" x 11, soft bound these books. covers, plastic ring-bound, 112 pages, 224 illustrations. There is a fine Table of Contents at the rear of Published 1991 by Gateway Clocks, 7936 Camberley this book, but shouldn't this be available at the begin­ Dr., Powell, TN 37849@$27.00 postpaid. ning of the text? In examining the end product, one feels that William R. Smith is a prize-winning maker ofclocks and this work is a tribute to the many professional skills and an author of many "how to" texts. His articles, in serial dedication of this author. His efforts should profit any form, have appeared both in the American and British who acquire this manual and assimilate its teaching horological presses. matter. In this latest publication, he illustrates and Henry B. Fried describes 17 of the most requested articles of informa­ tion which have been requested by clockmakers and repairers. The 19 chapter headings are: The Care and Use of the Graver (Turning, Tips, High-Speed Steel Grav­ ers); Super Glue Arbors for Wheel Cutting ~nth~ Bench Lathe; A Length Gauge for In-Barrel Mamsprmgs? A MOST OUTSTANDING Fusee Grooving Attachment for the Screw Cuttmg WATCH & CLOCK REPAIRING STUDENT Bench Lathe; The Use of Piercing and Fret Saws for the AT ST. PAUL TECHNICAL COLLEGE Clockmakers and Modelers; The 'Preacher,' A Remark­ 1991 able BushingTool; A Pinion Head DepthingTool; A New Type of Filing Button; A Drill for Sheet Metal; ~ut~on Centers for Clock and Model Makers; The AdJustmg Rod· A New Look at an Old Tool; A Tripod Extension for Wo;kshop Photography; An Inexpensive 3-Jaw Chuck for the Watch and Clockmaker'sLathe;ALength Trans­ fer Gauge for Spring Barrel Arbors; A Left-hand to Right-hand Duplicator; Hints, Kinks and Dodges; and Super Glue to the Rescue. All of the above chapter headings are divided into subheadings, for example: The Left to Right-hand Duplicator (method of transferring half a wood patt~rn such as on a pressed wood kitchen clock to the other side to create an overall symmetrical design); My Grandfa­ ther's Mantel Clock; The Abandoned Clock; Restora­ tion- The False Carved Case; How to Generate a Pat­ Congratulations goto Mr. Chon Tran (right), accepting the tern'; A Simple Solution; and Construction of th~ Un~t. "Most Outstanding Watchmaking Student Award" at St. Like all the other photographs and drawmgs m this manual these are professionally superior, clear, Paul Technical College from his instructor Wocrl-J W<:XJONard. and in detaii. The other topics illustrated in fine detail This is a most meaningful award because Chon was chosen by the other watchmaking students--the people show the operations, tools, and equipment used. T~e author exhibits much ingenuity and resourcefulness m that he worked with every day. presenting his instructions. The author, throughout Each year the watchmaking students at St. Paul these exercises, indicates a preference for the use ?f Technical College choose one student to receive this Super Glue and epoxies for securing or fixing certam award, which is based upon outstanding attitude, atten­ dance, ability, and achievement. Not only did Chon do a temporary and some permanent jigs and fixtures in t~e making of certain parts which may have to be dis­ truly outstanding job in all areas of the 9-month "Watch, mantled later. Mr. Smith explains his reasons and Clock, &Jewelry Repair" course, but he was always willing to help someone else. methods of application and separation. Chon received a special plaque to hang on his wall The topics in this manual have been selected and his name was engraved on the large trophy which will from a large range ofindividual articles which appeared in the Horological Times (American Watchmakers In­ remain on display in the Watch, Clock, and Jewelry Repair stitute), The Horological Journal (British Horological Department at St. Paul Technical College. Institute), Timecraft, and The Model Engineer. D

January 1992/Horological Times 47 SCHOLASTICALLY

SPEAI(ING Frank W. Paye

Paris Junior College Paris, Texas

hen I'm not teaching watch repair, repairing watch­ environment is technically very demanding. The mix of Wes, reading about watches, or sleeping, I travel to students is very diverse and international in scope. They promote the watch repair program at Paris J uniorCollege. find success will not come easily, but with the proper at­ So far this year I have attended ten trade shows, seminars, titude and dedication it will come, and with it financial in­ conventions, and demonstrations in seven states. One dependence. How nice! thing always seems to get a laugh--the word "horology." Horology is a 16-month course (4 semesters) Surely many of you can empathize and probably lip-sync covering the basic watch, automatics, calendars, timers, some of the snide comments people make about this chronographs, lathe work, electric watches, Accutrons, word. After awhile, though, Ileamed to throw my voice in digital, and step motor quartz. It involves selected history time with exactly what they were saying. This really of the art form of watchmaking and modem business catches them off-guard. applications. Aftera decade of bad press, the idea of becoming Jewelry technology is a 16-month course (4 se­ a watchmaker is fortunately enjoying somewhat of a ren­ mesters) covering layout and fabrication, repair, casting, aissance. It's very encouraging to see how public attitude advanced stone setting, and special projects in precious is changing, and exciting to meet new people who have metals. The emphasis is on technique as it applies to the been bitten by the watch bug. No cure has been found for jeweler both in manufacturing and retail repair and pro­ the watch bug yet--and hopefully never will. Once you duction. learn to live with it, it's great. The symptoms of this Gemology is a 4-month course (1 semester) cover­ friendly virus are a blank, tranquil stare and an attitude ing the identification of gemstones using industry stan­ that is hypnotic yet effervescent. These poor people, if dard test instruments. Students are trained in cuts and they only knew what was ahead of them--hairsprings, proportions, the geology of gemstones, and mining tech­ cracked jewels, terminal escapements, renegade electronic niques of diamonds and colored stones. It is a program circuits, and a host of gremlins and elves armed and ready rich in ancient lore and modem technique. to attack any timepiece they get their little hands on. Paris Junior College is a comprehensive two-year Nobody ever warned me, so I see no need in community college accredited with the Southern Associa­ spoiling the fun for anyone else. Besides, it is a great job tion of Colleges and Secondary Schools (SACS). Certifi­ being a watchmaker. Seriously, though, what's wrong cate and Associate of Applied Science degree programs with enjoying your work? So many people hate their jobs are offered in horology and jewelry. A certificate of com­ and think that it's normal to be unhappy. These are the pletion is awarded tostudentswhomeettherequirements people who really have a terrible sickness. However, this in gemology. affliction can often be remedied, and at Paris Junior Col­ We are compiling a list of graduates from these lege we provide programs that have an astounding suc­ programs and would enjoy hearing from our alumni so cess rate. that they may be included in the updated address list (find In 1942, the horology (there's that word again) your old friends!) and receive information about the school program was created to fill the need for skilled watchmak­ and alumni as it becomes available. ers. It began with six people enrolled. The following year The Texas Institute of Jewelry Technology is open the jewelry program was started. Together they outgrew year-round. Prospective students should contact Paris a number of classroom areas. In 1974 the programs were Junior College Admissions or feel free to visit the campus moved to the new Applied Sciences center. 1978 saw the for a personal tour. Think about it, then don't just say no, beginning of the gemology program. In 1990 the three JUST DOIT! were collectively renamed "The Texas Institute of Jewelry Texas Institute of Jewelry Technology Technology." Construction is now underway on a new Paris Junior College facility across from the main campus. 2400 Clarksville Street Now in its 50th year, the Texas Institute of Jewelry Paris, Texas 75460 Technology is the largest, most comprehensive school of Outside Texas--1(800) 232-5804 its kind in the country. The average enrollmentin the three In Texas-1(800) 441-1389 programs is 165 students. It has never been known as D being conservative, although the structured classroom

48 Horological Times/January 1992 News in the Trade

BULOVA PROMOTES The Ray Glynn scholar­ flag in Basel. of the cases: finely chased and SAYEGH ship is available for the Diamonds, A new 'Far East Pavilion' engraved plates and bridges, or­ Paul S. Sayegh has been appointed Colored Stones, or Gem Identifica­ was inaugurated in 1991 to accom­ nate pillars in a variety of shapes, Chief Operating Officer of Bulova tion courses. Applicants must be modate exhibitors from Hong Kong, intricate mechanisms activating Corporation's watch, clock, and residents of Alaska, Idaho, Oregon, Japan, and Singapore. Warmly chimes, and animated figures. jewelry division. Montana, or Washington. received by trade professionals and Among its most notewor­ In making the announce­ The Eunice Miles Schol­ visitors alike, this development proved thy specimens are pieces that tes­ ment, Herbert C. Hofmann, Presi­ arship is available for any home­ remarkably successful. Altogether, tify to the refined artistry of 16th and dent and Chief Executive Officer of study course. Basel 91 was a very busy place last 17th century English, French, and Bulova, said, 'The position more Jewelers of America and April, and welcomed some 90,000 German craftsmen. These include accurately reflects the scope of Mr. the Women's Jewelry Association visitors from the world's main mar­ magnificent 'portable clocks' worn Sayegh's responsibilities and rec­ also offer scholarships to students kets. around the neck or hanging from the ognizes his continued contributions pursuing GIA home-study courses. belt, richly gilded and enhanced to the division.' To be eligible for a GIA with rock crystal and a variety of Most recently Executive scholarship, applicants must be U.S. precious stones. Many display Vice President of Bulova, Mr. Sayegh citizens or legal residents, at least magnificent chasing work inspired has been with the firm for 12 years. 17 years of age, currently em ployed by engraved models produced by in the jewelry industry, or planning m~ers of the second Renaissance. to enter the field. The application One in particular, by Claude Henry, deadline for all scholarships is April The new face of the European Watch, Clock, master watchmaker in Lyons, is 1, 1992. and Jewelry Fair. The instant they reach notable for the unusual oval shape Basel 92, visitors and buyers won~ fail to be For more information, call struck by the appearance of the buildings, of its copper and silver case, orna­ (31 O) 829-2991 ext. 355 or 266, or bedecked with flags and multilingual inscrip­ mented with delicate scrollwork and write to: GIA Financial Aid, P.O. tions that make the most of each of the other motifs. Another piece, bear­ Box 211 o, Santa Monica, CA 90407- speciflc typefaces and sets of ideograms. ing the signature of Conrat Kreitzer, This is where the Far Eastern Pavilion is 2110. located, joined by production equipment and features a pear-shaped case carved tool manufacturers. from rock crystal. BASEL 92 DATES: Other exceptional designs APRIL 2-9, 1992 THE MAURICE ROBERT convey the grace and charm of The 2oth European Watch, Clock, COLLECTION enamel painting, an art born around and Jewelry Fair will be held in Whatever a given collection may 1630 and quickly adopted by watch­ Paul S. Sayegh Basel April 2-9, 1992. This world­ consist of, it will invariably reflect makers for their cases and watches, wide new product launcher, more the personality of whoever com­ often taking their decorative themes 1992-93 SCHOLARSHIPS vast and varied than any bazaar, is posed it. This is the case of the directly from popular paintings of AVAILABLE FOR GIA celebrating its 2oth year of exis­ admirable collection of antique and thetime.Aparticularlyfineexample HOME-STUDY COURSES tence in 1992. Year after year, it has period watches constituted over the The Gemological Institute of Amer­ attracted buyers from all corners of years by Maurice Robert. Its ma­ ica (GIA) is now accepting applica­ the world, irresistibly drawn to this keup testifies to his unusually dis­ tions for the following scholarships mother-lode of new trends and novel cerning horological culture, keen in its home-study courses: products. awareness of the craft's technologi­ The Morris Hanauer schol­ Ever since its inception in cal and styling developments, along arship is available to any student 1973, this major Basel event has with a definite feel for the highly enrolling in any of these courses: seen exhibitors from abroad triple in specialized aesthetics of traditional Diamonds, Diamond Grading, Col­ both numbers and net rented watchmaking. ored Stones, Colored Stone Grad­ floorspace. Participating countries Today owned by ET A SA ing, Gem Identification, Counter doubled. One thing is certain: every (Grenchen, Switzerland), the Mau­ Sketching, Fine Jewelry Sales, or make, every brand, every commer­ rice Robert Collection comprises Jewelry Display. cial enterprise of any importance in some 250 pieces in all. This collec­ The Irene Mack scholar­ the international marketplace will tion includes a num berof unusually ship is available to any student be on hand for Basel 92. This is original pieces, notable for fancy enrolling in Colored Stone Grading perhaps the most outstanding fea­ shapes and striking decors, as well or Fine Jewelry Sales. The student ture of the European Watch, Clock, as for a number of magnificently-­ Pear-shaped watch in silver gilt with must have completed the GIA Col­ and Jewelry Fair, now somewhat of ornate chatelaine watches and fob enamelled gold dial, rock crystal watch ored Stones course or F.G.A. the a misnomer since exhibitors from chains. Their movements more than glass. 17th century period; signed Conrat preceding year. three continents are showing the match the quality and artistry of the Kreitzer.

January 1992/Horological Times 49 News in the Trade

foreign companies. lnhorgenta of­ ners--are ideal for watch compa­ fers exhibitors from abroad access nies. Not only are there many par­ to the European market and to the ticipants in the races, he points out, markets of all other continents. butthere are often many thousands 21 of the 31 countries from of spectators plus media coverage. which the lrhorgenta exhibitors come 'After all,' he notes, 'timing, long­ will be represented by joint exhibitor term performance, and often style grou(l> at the 19th lntemationa Trcde are the hallmarks of marathoners Fair for Watches, Clocks, Precious and of watches.• Stones, and Silverware with Manu­ facturing Equipment. Over a dozen European and Asian countries have CENTER FOR BUSINESS been taking part in lnhorgenta in STUDIES PRESENTS this way for many years. In 1992, "BUSINESS ETHICS" Jewelers of America will offer a they will be joined by Belgium and Keith Brown Uruguay for the first time. Participa­ 'Business Ethics' course at their Round watch in gold, with chain and winding upcoming jewelry show, with Sher­ key. Signed Moilliet, Geneva. Property ETA tion from Third World countries has Earlier this year, Keith, SA, Grenchen, Switzerland. generally increased. lnhorgenta 92 3B, and his brothers Bruce, 40, and man Titens of Fromm Institute will once again feature joint exhib­ Eric, 42, decided to reprise a mara­ conducting the presentation. The session is scheduled for Sunday, of the talent of Genevan enamellers itor groups from Indonesia, Nepal, thon they ran in 1971. Their partici­ February 2nd, from 1:00 p.m. to is a piece bearing the mark "Bordi­ Peru, the Philippines, and Sri Lanka. pation in the 1991 Paavo Nurmi 2:15 p.m., and will be moderated by ers Freres a Geneve ,' notable for its The other exhibitor groups from Marathon in Hurley, WI was spon­ Jewelers' Circular-Keystone. ornate gold filigree work and cabo­ Europe, Asia, and America come sored by Swatch, a sister company Titens has been president chon-cut stones and enhanced with from the following countries: Aus­ to ETA in SMH, the Swiss watch of Fromm Institute for eight years, an enamelled miniature picturing tria, Finlard, Franre (3 groups), Great giant. The Brown brothers' goal was and a long-time consultantto family Saint Cecilia playing the harp. Britain, Greece, Hong Kong, Hun­ to better their performances of 20 business firms. The 'Ethics' tracks Similar in many ways to a gary, India, Israel, Italy (2 groups), years earlier in the midwest classic. are so popular that plans are being portrait gallery, the Maurice Robert the Netherlands, Thailand, and the Sporting their Swatch made for a self-study course in Collection is com posed of truly dis­ USA. chronographs and Swatch T-shirts, December, which will be available tinctive timepieces, each with its each of the Browns proved that to all members. own personality, appearance, and WATCHES, MOVEMENTS, AND marathoners can improve with age. The questions that Titens beauty. All were born in the mind, MARATHONS-IT'S ALL Keith placed 4th, with a time of 2 will be addressing are those at the eyes, and hands of talented crafts­ IN THE FAMILY hours and 39 minutes. Twenty years forefront of news today: Is integrity men, and today constitute lasting Like the quality watch movements earlier he came in 21st in 2 hours dead in American business? What testimonials to an artistic spirit that he sells, ETA vice president Keith and 41 minutes. Bruce, who did not constitutes ethical and unethical has endowed the watch with its Brown turns in quality time perform­ finish in 1971, came in 32nd with a behavior? The answers to these unique cultural and technical value. ances as a marathoner. In this time of 3 hours and 6 minutes. Eric month's New York City Marathon, jumped to a 20th place finish from a questions are Titens' specialty; he Brown clocked a very respectable 2 350th position 20 years before. He has spent a good part of his busi­ GLOBAL SUPPLY AND hours and 43 minutes, finishing 295th did it in 3 hours, down from 4 hours ness and legal career researching, DEMAND ON HAND out of a field of more than 26,000 and 2 minutes. theorizing, and confronting issues AT INHORGENTA runners. Brown, who lives in Man­ such as this. Supply and demand from all over Brown's interest in mara­ hattan, practices in Central Park. For more information, the world meet at the international thons goes back to his days as a He is usually in the park by 5:30 contact Gina DeHaan at Jewelers trade shows in Munich, Germany. high school runner in Ohio, where a.m. So far, he has been able to set of America, 1185 Avenue of the The 'jewel" of Munich's international he was state champion at the two­ his own pace. He hasn1 been faced Americas, New York, NY 10036; trade fairs, lnhorgenta (1992: Feb. mile distance. This led to a track with trying to outrun any muggers. (212) 768-8006. 7-10, and Sept. 12-14), also attracts scholarship to the University of In preparing for a marathon, Brown vendors and buyers from all corners Michigan. In 1979, he qualified as a runs between 60 and 70 miles a of the world every year. The trade marathoner for the U.S. Olympic week. fair enables an independent com­ Team trials. Much to his disappoint­ While he admits that his parison of quality and the unre­ ment, the United States did not love for running may prejudice him stricted exchange of goods and in­ compete in the 1980 Moscow Olym­ somewhat, Brown claims that mara­ formation, serving the sales inter­ pics. However, Brown continued his thon sponsorships--both for the ests of both German exhibitors and long-distance running. events as well as for individual run- 50 Horological Times/January 1992 New Products

WORLD'S MOST ACCURATE Designed for use in the CLOCK NOW AVAILABLE United States, the clock has a but­ La Crosse-McCormick Clock Com­ ton that allows it to be set for the pany announces the availability of proper time zone. the Junghans Mega Clock, called The Mega Clock is dis­ the 'world's most accurate clock.' tributed in the United States by the The Mega Clock is a radio-con­ La Crosse-McCormick Clock Com­ trolled clock that never needs to be pany. For more information, contact adjusted and will keep time accu­ La Crosse-McCormick Clock Co., rate to one second per million years. 125 South Second St., La Crosse, Junghans has been an WI 54601 ; (800) 346-9544. proof crystal, winder and stopwatch innovative company in the German control buttons tipped with cabo­ watch and clock industry since 1861. chon sapphires, available on an all­ Now, in cooperation with La Crosse· steel or leather bracelet. McCormick Clock Company in The steel Pasha watch This Corum model, with water-re­ Wisconsin, the radio-rontrolled Mega collection, in addition to the steel sistant, 950 platinum case fitted Clock is being introduced to the Cougar, steel and gold Panther, with an outcurved crystal, is avail­ United States. and steel and gold Must 21 watches, able only in a numbered, strictly are available at all 23 Cartier bou­ limited edition. It features a silvered, tiques throughout the United States. waffle-pattern 'Clou de Paris' decor Cartier International, one with the following auxiliary informa­ of the world's leading luxury goods tion: a second time zone at 12 o'clock companies, designs,, manufactures, on a 24-hour subdial; a date calen­ and distributes all of Cartier's prod­ dar aperture at 3 o'clock; a power­ ucts. Thecompanymarketsabroad reserve indicator at 6 o'clock show­ range of luxury products including ing the time at which the watch's jewelry, watches, pens, leather self-winding movement will stop if it goods, scarves, fragrances, light­ is not rewound; alligator strap. The Breguet "Marine" chronograph ers, china, silver, and crystal through Contact: Corum Watches, North (above) is equipped with a self­ a global network of 144 Cartier stores American Watch Corp., 650 5th winding movement fitted in a case and 10,000 authorized dealers lo­ Ave., New York, NY 10019; (212) water-resistant to a depth of 50 m, cated in 123 countries. 397-7800. Mega Clock available in PT 950 platinum or in SCHUETZ DESIGN The Mega Clock is so 18K gold, with silvered or mother­ CONTEST OPEN precise because it receives its sig­ of-pearl dial. Its leather strap is water­ The Gemological Institute of Amer­ nal from WWVB radio transmitter repellent. Contact: Breguet, 18 E. ica is accepting entries for the 1992 located in Fort Collins, CO, which is 48th St., 8th Floor, New York, NY George A. Schuetz Memorial Fund controlled by an atomic clock. The 10017; (212) 223-0099. exact time signal is continuously Jewelry Design Contest. Winners sent around the United States on a CARTIER'S NEW PASHA will receive $500 scholarshops to 60 KHz long-wave radio signal. The WATCH COLLECTION be used in any course of study in a clock's computer receives and proc­ The Cartier Pasha takes on a bold subject related to the jewelry indus­ esses the time signal which auto­ new look-the strength and elegance try at an educational institution of matically controls the clock's hands. of steel. This collection, featured in the winner's choice. The contest is A built-in antenna system makes six styles, is sleek, tailored, and open to all; designs submitted should reception possible anywhere in the rugged. It is ideal as a dress or sport be original color renderings and not United States where long-wave watch and is the top of the line for Inside the platinum case of this previously exhibited or offered for reception is undisturbed. those who favor the sharp look of complex watch from Audemars sale. The two categories of entry Radio-controlled clocks steel. Piguet beats a self-winding move­ are men's jewelry or accessories ment that drives a complete perpet­ nENer need to be, nor can be, manual­ The steel Pasha watch and women's jewelry featuring col­ ual calendar (date, day, month, moon ored stones. Entry deadline: April 1, ly adjusted. The change between collection has the following features: year and a chrono­ phac;es, leap cycle) 1992. Contact: GIA, P.O. Box2110, standard time and daylight savings chronograph (stopwatch), waterproof graph with tachymeter and hour and Santa Monica, CA 90407-2110, or time takes place automatically and to 100 feet, luminous hands and minute totalizers. Contact: Aude­ with the same precision. It also hour figures, double-screw winding mars Piguet, 18 E. 48th St., New call (800) 421-7250, ext. 355, or automatically adjusts for leap years. crown with security chain, scratch- York, NY 10017; (212) 223-0099. (31 O) 829-2991, ext. 355.

January 1992/Horological Times 51 Classified Ads

REGULATIONS AND RATES

Ads are payable in advance $.60 per word, $. 70 per word in bold type. Classified display ads are $25.00 per column inch, 2-1/4" wide. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of serv­ ices will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance (e.g. June issue closes for copy on May 1st).

HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 Phone (513) 661-3838 Fax (513) 661-3131

l'RLCISION Tl\IL-TLCH Sen ice and fL':-.lor;1tin11 ol Roll'\. Pi;1gcl. l'all'k Philippe. DIAL \ 'acllnon-( 011~1ar1Li11 • . \n1iqul' pod.l'l \\;1icliL':-. a .\(ll'Ci~d\I. S\\ is:-.-lra111cd ma,ll'r \\alclnnakl'r. R!Jk'\ LL'rlil ictl. ( u-.10111 p:1r1 ma1111 f acturl'. I '\pcLliL'llj -.eniL'L' a11d profL'-.:-.ion<.JI REFINISHING 1.p1alil). \II \\orl... l'ull) guara11((.:t•d . PRECISION TIME-TECH c2 ; 11 ~'i Laurl'I Slrl'l'I. San Carlo" C\ 940~0 ·-----·- ·-·-· FREE ACCUTRON'REPAIR 2 · (.+!';) 59'i-9.'34 Send 2 MENS Accutrons (no basket cases) • .I I• -4 ·. Will repair one free and keep the other George Hite, 250 Hammond Pond Pky DON'T GIVE UP HOPE, GIVE US A TRY? . .,., 1~ I Chestnut Hill, MA 02167 (617)332-7363 Dependable repair of all types of high-grade BEFORE AFTER watches--Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, etc. SPACE VIE'W CONVERSIONS $45 We repair all types of Accutrons by Bulova, Quartz Conversions Omega, Movado, Longines, etc. and Hamilton Diamond Dial Conversions electric calibres 500-505. Rolex double springs Emblem & Name Personalization 37 Years experience in restoring and making and most other watch parts made. Watch crys­ parts for French and English Carriage Clocks tals custom made. Ifyou need a watch repaired­ Write for Brochures and Platform Escapements, Balance Staffs, -high-grade, antique, complicated, etc.--and Cylinders, Repivoting, Hairsprings, Pinions, want fast, dependable service with high quality INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO., INC. etc. JOHN BARRS, 8442 N.E. 140th St., GUARANTEED, give us a try; so don't worry, 58 W. SUGARTREE Bothell, WA 98011; (206) 820-8288. be happy! Over 30 years experience in all : P.O. BOX 970 phases of watch repair and watch parts manu­ 1 WILMINGTON, OH 45177 : facturing. J. Park, CMW. Time Zone, 3578-F ~------~ WATCH RESTORATION and repair work. Memorial Drive, Decatur, GA 30032; (404) 289- 4464; Mon.-Sat. 10 am - 9 pm. Custom staffs, pivoting, and regilding. Ron CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, DeCorte, Box 6126, Toledo, OH 43614; (419) material and tools. Custom made to order or 381-1081. repair of gears, pinions, and parts. Catalog POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR -- Bezels, $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, Atwa­ hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, ter, OH 44201; (216) 947-2268. Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., TIMING MACmNES -- NEW AND REFUR­ BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON Benton, IL 62812. Phone (618) 439-6995. HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865. Pocket & wrist cases repaired, bezels, hinges, Call (814) 692-2285 springs straightened, fit movements, U-backs. CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and pin­ California Watch Case Co., 657 Mission St., ions. Module 0.2 to 1.0. Constant profile pro­ Suite 409, San Francisco, CA 94105; (415) 362- ducing traditional square bottomed teeth, 104 2614 sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), WE'VE MOVED!! Larger Shop, More Technicians to Serve You Better dead beat (set of four sizes). Ratchets 60° and ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT SERVICE 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt M42 High We are Factory Authorized Service for: Speed Steel and heat treated under vacuum. CLOCK WHEEL AND * VIBROORAF & PORTESCAP Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and CBN. * TICK-0-PRINT & L&R PINION CUTTING We service all makes ci ultrasonics, all makes of watch rate Send for Information Sheet, prices, and order recorders, and related equipment. 25 years experience. forms to: P.P. Thornton (Successors), Ltd., Hor­ Fast service -- Write for free Brochure JACK PHILLIPS - ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE ological Cutter Makers, The Old Bakehouse, 757 Lincoln Ave., #26 San Rafael, CA 94901 and price list. Fendleys, 2535 ffimes St., For Information, Call (415) 453-9286 Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, Eng­ Irving, TX 75060. (214) 986-7698. land.

52 Horological Times/January 1992 MURPHY'S NEW Electronic Timing Machines CRYSTAL SERVICE FAST -- QUALllY WORK * 24-hour turnaround on most jobs * Complete crystal fitting service * Specializing in custom cut flat WATCHES, ETC. Send SASE for list of used mineral glass crystals watchmakers' equipment. Pocket watch list CALL OR WRITE FOR PRICE LIST also available. Please specify. We have hard-to­ PHONE (209) 576-8865 find mechanical wristwatch and pocket watch parts. Please include a detailed request for • 11METRAX 600 Wrtst & Pocket Watch 2324 WESTMINSTER DR. Timer: Measures & displays watch trains in vi­ MODESTO, CA 95355 specific parts needed. IN STOCK: Original brations per hour, Calculates gain or loss in porcelain pocket watch dials and pocket watch Sec/day. Over 40 preprogrammed trains: 7200- cases. WATCHES, ETC., 5934 N.W. 39th, 36000 /hr. Highly stable TCXO timebase. Oklahoma City, OK 73122; (405) 789-2824. Complete wtwatch holder & pickups ...... $595 THE MORTICIAN NO COMEBACKS • TIMETRAX 400 Clock Timer: Measures & displays clock trains in vibrations per hour, We correct past mistakes & bury them. Special­ Extended timing range for 400 day & Atmos izing in wheel work, repivoting & making of Vigor engraver EN775 includes accessory cup clocks, Balance mode aids in setting movement parts. Repeaters, Audemars Piguet, Piaget, and bowl holders, 2 letter sets. Jewelry steam in beat. Complete w/pickup ...... $395 Rolex & Quartz Conversions. All work guaran­ cleaner, 2 gal., 80 PSI, used only a few times. teed 2years and done by Jal Small, CMW & As­ Pro-Craft electric soldering machine, 5 car­ •TICK TECH 195 Clock Timer: Measures sociates; (713) 561-5147. bons, 2 clamps, foot control, never used. (813) Timing interval between ticks in milliseconds 261-8142, Noon to 5:00 pm EST, Naples, FL. and Beats/Minute. Portable, battery powered, complete w/pickup ...... $225 CLOCKS: gearcutting, repivoting, jeweling, rebushing. REPAIRING: timers, aircraft All units made in USA. 1 yr. warranty, complete clocks, pocket watches. ROY H. NIEGEL, with instructions & reference tables. Send 3 GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE stamps for info & our new 1990 Catalog of CMC, CMW, 101 E. Saint Joe Drive, Spirit P.O. Box 221121 San Diego, CA 92192 Horological Literature. Lake, Idaho 83869. SASE or CALL (208) 623- (619) 461-0115 or (619) 280-3688 Adams Brown Co., Box 357, 4330. PARTS AND SERVICE HEADQUARTERS ~ .~ Cranbury, NJ 08512 (609) 655-8269 FOR SCHATZ, KUNDO, KOMA, KERN, MEL HEFNER TRADE SHOP HALLER, HERMLE, NISSHINDO. ME­ Professional watchmaker repairs mechanical, CHANICAL - QUARTZ - ELECTRONIC - CIRCUIT BOARDS - MAINSPRINGS - SUS­ Accutron tuning fork, and analog quartz 2 New Vigor Inside Ring Engraving Machines, watches. Request price list. Expert retrofit­ PENSION SPRINGS and MOVEMENTS, ETC. EN835. 1 New Vigor Waterproof Tester, ting. P .O. Box 419, Dadville, AL 36853; (205) TS840. 1 Large Polishing Machine, Vigor, 825-4559. Used. Make Offer. (314) 987-2367.

DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, HERMLE MOVEMENTS: Lowest prices in FINEST QUALITY, quantity works welcome. U.S. Factory fresh, 2-year warranty. Butter­ Specialize on changing dial feet positions to fit worth Clock Repair, 1715 Pearlview, Mus­ the quartz movement. Send your works to: catine, IA 52761; 1-800-258-5418. KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 625, Seattle, WA 98101; (206) 623-2452. YOUR AD BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC, COULD BE RETOCYl'HING, AND OTHER CUSTOM H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. WORK. Movements overhauled with 2- PLACED HERE! year guarantee. All work done by a CMC or a CC. Send SASE for price list. HUGH'S CLOCK SHOP, 125 Ganttown Rd., Turn­ USED WATCHMAKERS TOOLS, EQUIP­ ersville, NJ 08012; (609) 228-1539. MENT, MATERIAL, SUPPLIES, WATCHES, MOVEMENTS, AND RELATED ITEMS. Write or call for our latest list. Tom Mister, Dashto Jewelers, 983 Providence Square Shop­ QUARTZ CONVERSIONS ping Center, Virginia Beach, VA 23464; (804) H.ABE 495-2471. WATCH RUSTED? DISCONTINUED? USED WATCH MOVEMENTS NO PARTS? SENTIMENTAL? GOLD CASE? 2 Florida Way Lonaconing, MD 21539 SEND IT TO AL ZAMORA FOR A NEW SWISS QUALITY MOVEMENT Mr. Watchmaker -- If you h,;ive a problem finding AND FIRST QUALITY JOB CONVERSION. CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD parts for older watches, badly rusted or damaged 95% SIZES POSSIBLE, POCKETS ALSO. CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL beyond repair, we may be able to help you. We SAFE REGISTERED MAIL. Save time, money, and work re-covering bel­ have lots of movements for parts at reasonable ALFONSO ZAMORA lows. Easier than replacing. For information, prices. Some suitable for replacement. If not sat­ 280 PRESIDIO PLACE send business-size SASE to: isfactory you may return. BUFFALO, NY 14221 JANDi GOGGIN (716) 633-6138 Box 175H, Huntington, NY 11743-0175 Phone (301) 463-6595

January 1992/Horological Times 53 Classified Ads

AVOID COMEBACKS LEARN WATCH REPAIR Special techniques in all levels. Instruction given by CMW. (713) 561-5147.

Clockmakers Newsletter is edited by Steven MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed G. Conover and is in its fifth year. CN's lowest prices--as low as $2.30. Two-year guar­ monthly issues give you clock repair informa­ antee. Large selection of hands and numerals. tion, articles, repair tips, and Q &A. Withyour Free delivecy. SASE or call (704) 333-0221. payment of$34 for a new one year subscription, HALL CLOCK SHOP, 1512 Central Ave., mention this ad and choose one of these bonus Charlotte, NC 28205. issues free: Making Cutters for the Bushing Tool, 400-Day Clock Repair, or Making wrge Bushings on the Unimat La,the. Don't forget to order your copy of the 210-page hardcover WATCHMAKERS NEEDED HIGHEST QUALI1Y book, Chime Clock R,epair, by Steven G. UP TO $1,000 WEEKI.. Y CLOCKMAKING TOOUI Conover, $28.50 postpaid. PA residents add 6% from sales tax on book only. Clockmakers Newslet­ PLUS BENEFITS J. Malcolm Wild, England ter, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, P~ 19607. Qualified in Bulova Accutrons, Mechanical, Depthing Tools (large & small) \ Quartz, and Short Jobs. All Skill Levels. Lathe File Rest - Milling Spindle (313) 559-5329 Finger Plate Clamp Pinion Head Depthing Tool **NEW*• Hairspringing Tool - Fusee Grooving Tool Repivoting Tool/Jacot Drum Myford Dividing Head Mounting Kit Skeleton Clock Kit New catalogue available for $8.00 from: ATTENTION STUDENTS: New course cata­ Michael M. Ambrosino log available free for Laurie Penman's corre­ 33-67 165th Street, Flushing, NY 11358 spondence course in clock repair. Send your request to USA course agent Steven G. WANTED: ANY WATCH OR CLOCK WITH Conover, 203 John Glenn Ave., Reading, PA (DROZ) ON FACE. (818) 359-4389. 19607.

TEXAS INSTfIUfE OF SWATCH WATCHES-Wanted to buy new old stock. Call Michael at Timepieces, 656 Beacon JEWELRY TECHNOLOGY St., Boston, MA 02215; (617) 536-3883; Fax A D1v1\1nn ot Pan'- Junmr Culkgc (617) 536-5453. Comprehensive Training * Jewelry Repair * Watch Repair HAMILTON ELECTRIC REPAIRMAN seeks parts! Movements, balances, etc. desper­ FULL SERVICE CLOCK SHOP. Estab­ *Casting * Watch Making ately needed. Want anything related to Hamil­ lished 1984. $250,000 annual sales. Lo­ * Stone Setting *Gemology ton Electrics. Rene Rondeau, 120 Harbor cated in Des Moines, Iowa. Population Drive, Corte Madera, CA 94925; (415) 924- 230,000+. $60,000 plus inventory. Duane ASSOCIATE DEGREE OR CERTIFICATE 6534. Howe (515) 277-0721. Paris Junior College 2400 Clarksville St. • Paris. TX 7 5460-6298 TEXAS-1-800-441-13 98 FINE JEWELRY STORE FOR SALE IN WANTED CENTRAL OHIO. Situated in an exclusive OUTSIDE-1-800-232-5804 affluent community of 65,000 population, • Diamonds - all sizes, qualities; in the center of a progressive metropolis even chipped, old mine, single cut • Scrap watch bands - paying $12-$27 lb. of 1,000,000 people. On-going business for • Dead watch batteries (unsorted accepted) 40 years, 26 under the present ownership • Gold filled & gold scrap - filings, of a Certified Master Watchmaker. Most JOSEPH BULOVA SCHOOL 10, 14, 18K, buffing waste, etc. ideal for watchmaker husband and wife. • Sterling & plated flatware 40-24 62nd St. Woodside, NY 113n This store is a proven success. Owner is • China, old watches - Rolex, etc. Phone (718) 424-2929 retiring. Write to: Box BS11191, c/o Horol­ CALL ogical Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, TOLL FREE 1-800-426-2344 OH 45211. Quality Instruction Since 1945 6. WATCHMAKING SPECIAL TV METALS (17 months) REFINING COMPANY LEADING RETAIL CLOCK SALES AND WATCH REPAIR 10 Bay Street SERVICE BUSINESS established 1978. (9 and 13 months) Westport, CT 06880 Owners retiring. Solid sales and profits record. JEWELRY REPAIR Tremendous growth opportunity in affluent, BASIC ELECTRONICS Members suburban area of Twin Cities. Asking $45M Ideal Housing, Dining, Recreation Jewelers Board of Trade plus inventocy. Good terms to right party. (612) NATTS approved, BEOG available Ron Fried Our 70th Consecutive Ad 475-1489. President

54 Horological Times/January 1992 A'ITENTION WATCHMAKERS! Small ad, higher prices! We need your vintage Unueual Pocket WatchH & Wrlatwatchee Wanted. Eepeclally Patek Phlllppe, Howard, llllnols, Waltham, Watches Wanted watches for our European customers. Top prices paid for Patek, Vacheron, Rolex, Chronometers, Strikers, Moonphese, Tourblllons, Vlr­ glllee, Kerrusel, Muslcals, Hlstorlcel, end Solid Golds. Cartier, Movado, chronographs, and oth· ers. Buying ail brands, new old stock. Early American watches a specialty. Need not run. Cell TOLL FREE 1·800.23J-BUNN or 913-383-2880. Maundy Buying mint boxed comic characters. Buying preowned modern Rolex and Car­ lntematlonal, P.O. Box 13028H, Overland Part, Kan111 tier. Buying ladies enamels. National 66212. Watch Exchange, 107 S. 8th St., Philadel­ phia, PA 19106. 1-800-43-ROLEX. 1-800- 562-6788. We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, sweeps, We desperately need for our retail silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour payment customers fine watches by: return mail! Ship insured/registered mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY, 253 King Rolex, Patek Phillippe, Audemars Piguet, WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ movements. I buy entire collections, estates, St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401. Estab­ Vacheron & Constantin, Movado, Gubelin, etc. watchmakers' inventories. Over 30 years expe· lished 1960. Phone (803) 722-2073. rience of honest and reliable confidential We are paying top prices for any high transactions. JON HANSON, Box 5499, Bev­ quality, unusual or complicated erly Hills, CA 90210; (213) 826-7778. Wrist or Pocket Watches BUY e SELL When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch Call us Toll Free 1-800-842-8625 We buy watchmakers tools, equipment, mate­ HIRE e RELOCATE rial, and related items as well as jewelers and LEARN FIND In Texas 1-214-902-0664 clockmakers tools and watch collections, etc. e Always prompt immediate payment! Specialize in estate purchases. Call or write Tom Mister, Dashto Jewelers, 983 Providence Wingate's Quality Watches Square Shopping Center, Virginia Beach, VA Classifieds in Horological Times P.O. Box 59760 • Dallas, TX 75229-1760 23464; (804) 495-2471. help you do what you want to do!

We're interested in your color slides.

The American Watchmakers Institute knows If your color slide is used, you will receive an that there is a wealth of talent in its member­ 8V2 x 11 inch color photo. It will be framed ship and that this talent is not only in the and sent to you for your enjoyment. field of horology. There is seldom a gathering of a group of watchmakers and clockmakers where a camera is not also there. Mail your color slide with description to:

Those of you who pride yourself in the beauty Horological Times of your camera work can possibly participate P.O. Box 11011 in having your own picture reproduced on Dept. 31 the cover of Horological Times. The covers of Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Horological Times are reproduced from color transparencies or slides. Remember, the format is scenery or nature and what you All slides become the property of the American submit must be a color slide. Color photos are Watchmakers Institute. not acceptable.

January 1992/Horological Times 55 Dates to Remember Ad Index

JANUARY 1992 MARCH 1992 Blue Ridge Machinery & Tools ...... 6 Borel Co ...... 5 17-19-Advanced Clock Repair Bench Course 14-15--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Roland Iverson, instructor; Alexandria, (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Trenton, NJ.* VA.* Cas-Ker Co...... inside back cover 20-21--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course 17-19-Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Orlando, FL.* Charles Cleves ...... 23 Roy Hovey, instructor; Kansas City, MO.* 21-22-Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course Davis Supply ...... 31 18-19-400-Day Oock Repair Bench Course (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Denver, CO.* (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor; Boston, MA.* 21-22-Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Esslinger & Co...... inside front cover 18-19--Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course James Lubic, instructor; Orlando, FL.* (AWi); Gerald Jaeger, instructor; Los Angeles, CA.* 22-23--Striking Clocks Bench Course (AWi); Finn Time Products ...... 17 John A. Nagle, instructor; Orlando, FL.* 19--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Gem City College ...... 17 Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; At­ 27-29--Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); lanta, GA.* Roy Hovey, instructor; Orlando, FL.* Innovative Electronics ...... 15 19--Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ 29-Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench pair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instruc­ Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; Bay tor; Albuquerque, NM.* Area, CA.* S. LaRose, Inc...... 19 Livesay's, Inc...... 9 25-26--Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course (AWi); James Williams, instructor; Phoenix, AZ..* APRIL 1992 New York Jewelers Supply Co...... 33 25-26--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course 3-5--Virginia Jewelers Association and the (AWi); John Nagle, instructor; Austin, TX.* Horological Association of Virginia Annual Convention, Embassy Suites Hotel, Richmond, Plymouth Watch Material ...... 25 26--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench VA. Precision Crystal Cutting Co ...... 17 Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; San Diego, CA.* 11-12--Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; Albuquerque, NM.* Ray Gaber Co ...... 11

FEBRUARY 1992 24-26--Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); & 27 Roy Hovey, instructor; Albuquerque, NM.* S G Industries ...... 8-9-Beginning Lathe BenchCourse (AWi) ; James Lubic, instructor; San Diego, CA.* Toledo Jewelers ...... 13 MAY 1992 14-15--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course Twin City Supply Co ...... 15 (AWi); John A. Nagle, instructor, Pittsburgh, PA*. 9-10-Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); James Lubic, instructor; Alexandria, VA.* 14-16--Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Vibrograf USA Corp...... 21 Roy Hovey, instructor; San Diego, CA.* 15-17--Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); Roy Hovey, instructor; Alexandria, VA.* Witschi Electronics ...... 29 16--lntroduction to Quartz Watch Repair Bench Course (AWi); Buddy Carpenter, instructor; Al­ 16-17-Arizona Clockmakers & Watchmakers buquerque, NM.* Guild Annual Convention; Las Campanas Quality Young-Neal Co., Inc ...... 31 Inn; Cottonwood, AZ.. For more information con­ 16-17--Striking Clocks Bench Course (AWi); tact Bob Macomber (602) 778-5720. John A. Nagle, instructor; Pittsburgh, PA.* Zantech ...... 3 21-23--Texas Watchmakers Association Annual 22-23--400-Day Clock Repair Bench Course Convention, Wyndham Hotel at Southpark, (AWi) ; John A. Nagle, instructor; Albuquerque, Austin, TX. NM.*

22-23--Cuckoo Clock Repair Bench Course JUNE 1992 (AWi); James Williams, instructor; Orlando, FL.* 13-14--Beginning Lathe Bench Course (AWi); 22-23--Repair of the Atmos Clock Bench Course James Lubic, instructor; New York, NY.* (AWi) ; Gerald Jaeger, instructor; New York, NY.* 19-21-Advanced Lathe Bench Course (AWi); ANSWERS FRQM PAGE 19 23-Useful Techniques: Mechanical Watch Re­ Roy Hovey, instructor; New York, NY.* pair Bench Course (AWi); James Adams, instruc­ 1 = 4 tor; Ellisville, MS.* 2 5 *For more Information on AWi Bench Courses and = 23--Servicing ETA Quartz Chronographs Bench Regional Seminars, contact AWi Central, P.O. Box 3 = 2 Course (AWi); James Broughton, instructor; 11011, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211; 4 = 3 Phoenix, AZ..* (513) 661-3838; Fax (513) 661-3131. 5 = 2.5 56 Horological Times/January 1992 Inside Ring Engraving Machine • Especially designed for jewelers. • Simple to operate. • Diamond cutter. • Manual operation. • Semi-manual adjusting. • Template engraved on both faces. • Maximum jaw opening 30mm diam. No.260.199 List Price $895.00 $

Stereo Jewelscope •Specifically designed for gemstone use. • Quality wide-field lenses provide high resolution and clear optics. • 1OX & 30X stereo magnification with turret style quick change and precision rack and pinion focusing. • Upper and lower illumination can be used independently or together. $ •Extra long focusing range. • 360° swivel allows clerk or customer counter use. No.290.999 Jewelscope (includes Gem Clamp) Special Terms Available No.290.999DF Optional Darkfield Attachment $110.00 Cas·kCo. (displays minor flaws in diamonds) 2121 SPRING GROVE AVENUE CALL FREE 1-800-487-0408 FAX 1-800-487-5848 LOCAL 513/241-7073 FAX 513/241-5848 PO BOX 14069 CINCINNATI OH 45250-0069 PROJECT EXTEND CLASSES FOR 1992 Contact AWI Central for general information brochure for Project Extend and specific course brochures for classes that interest you. A WI CENTRAL, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211; (513) 661-3838; fax (513) 661- 3131. January 13-17 Clock V (preparation and completion of CMC exam) James Lubic January 20-24 Watch VII (preparation and completion of CMW exam) James Lubic February 10-14 Quartz III (preparation and completion of CMEW exam) Alice Carpenter February 17-21 Watch III (complicated) James Lubic March2-6 Lathe I (beginners) James Lubic March 9-13 Lathe II (advanced) Archie Perkins March 16-20 Watch Case Repair Marshall Richmond March 23-27 Clock Case Repair James Williams March 30-April 3 Clock Repair I (beginners) James Lubic April 6-10 Clock Repair II (advanced) Roland Iverson May 4-8 Clock Repair III (restoration) David Christianson May 11-15 Quartz I (beginners) Gerald Jaeger May 18-22 Quartz II (advanced) Robert Bishop June 1-5 Watch I (staffing, poising, and timing) James Lubic June 8-12 Watch Repair II (hairspring vibrating and finishing) Hal Herman June 15-19 Watch Repair V (restoration) Archie Perkins June20-24 Complicated Watches Antoine Simonin July 6-10 Clock Repair VI John Nagle July 13-17 Clock Repair VII John Nagle ANNOUNCING A SPECIAL 5-DAY COURSE ON COMPLICATED WATCHES JUNE 20-24, 1992 (Prior to the AW! Annual Meetings)

CONDUCTED BY COURSE OUTLINE Study of various complicated watches, Antoine Simonin, Director such as: various systems of chrono­ Watchmakers of Switzerland graph, split chronograph, quarter and Training & Education Program, minute repeater (old and modern), Neuchatel, Switzerland independentjumpingseconds, calen­ dar mechanism (including perpetual Mr. Antoine Simonin is a Swiss citi­ system). zen who graduated from the Bienne Participants should bring one School of Watchmaking. After work­ of these along or any other specialty. ing for Omega for five years in sales and service in Europe and Africa, he REGISTRATION became a training coordinator for the Registration is limited and will be Mr. Simonin is a collector of technical Swiss Watch Federation. He has held selected by earliest postmarks. Fee: timepieces, mainly marine chronome­ the Directorship for the Training and $125.00. Mail to: A WI Central, 3700 ters and complicated watches. He is Educational program (WOSTEP) for Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH the editor of the Swiss watch and clock the Watchmaking Industry of Swit­ 45211. The class will be held at the collectors bulletin, as well as president of Chronometrophilia, the Swiss watch zerland since 1976, and has more AWI Project Extend Education Cen­ and clock collectors association. He is than 30 years of experience in train­ ter. also editor and distributor of horologi­ ing watchmakers. cal books.