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~ P.O. BOX 64561 ST. PAUL. MN 55164 Nellonal WATS - Orders Only 800-328-0205 ~ Esslinger & Cb. Minnesota WATS - Orders Only 800-392-0334 Inquiries - lnlormatlon 612-452-7180 VOLUME12,NUMBER10 OCTOBER 1988 HOROLOGICAL
Official Publication of the American Watchmakers Institute
ROBERT F. BISHOP PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE 4 AWi Collection Watch #11 Returns "Home" Watch HENRY B. FRIED QUESTIONS & ANSWERS 6 A Watch from Lancashire Returns Home JOE CROOKS BENCH TIPS 8 Another Rust Buster & Retrofitting Dial Feet
JAMES H. BROUGHTON WATCHES INSIDE & OUT 12 Using a Heat Gun and Ultraviolet Light To Fit Mineral Crystals
LEO A. JAROS LAW CLOCK TROUBLESHOOTING 14 A Diagnostic Systems Approach, Part One WcS DOOR SHOP TALK Fitting 16 Module Replacements
JOHN A. NAGLE HODGEPODGE LODGE Mineral Crystals 18 Mending Clock Hands With Silver Solder JAMES ADAMS NOVICE WATCHMAKER 12 22 The Quartz Watch Analog
STEVEN G. CONOVER CHIME AND STRIKE 24 Junghans Chime Movement
ROY H. NI EGEL CLOCKS INSIDE AND OUT RALPH GEIGER 28 Two Cleaning Techniques
EDGAR CLEVES, JR. GEMSTONES Two New 30 Calcite Group Clock Series Begin ARCHIE B. PERKINS TECHNICALLY WATCHES 32 Antique Watch Restoration, Part XXXIV
MARSHALL F. RICHMOND PICKLE BARREL 14 & 18 36 Handcrafting Boxes & Bezels
THOMAS H. WHITE AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN 40 Now is the Time DEPARTMENTS
HENRY B. FRIED BOOK REVIEW Bulletin Board/10 42 Patek Philippe-Geneve Wristwatches Horological Showcase/23 Forum/35 Association News/41 HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American New Products/News in the Trade/43 Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for $40.00 per year ($4.50 Classified Ads/45 per copy in the United States and $50.00 per year; $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.). Second class Advertisers' lndex/48 postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, Dates to Remember/48 P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211. AWi Bench Courses/48
OFFICE HOURS: Monday through Friday 8:00 AM to 4:00 PM (Eastern Daylight Time). Closed on all national holidays. AWi HOTLINE: (513) 661-4636 (24 hours, recording). George Daniels Henry B. Fried * FELLOWS * Josephine F. Hagans Orville R. Hagans OF THE AMERICAN Robert A. Nelson WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Hamilton E. Pease EXECUTIVE AND EDITORIAL OFFICES Milton C. Stevens AWi Central Marvin E. Whitney P.O. Box 11011 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838 UP FRONT
Milton C. Stevens: Interim Editor HUCKABEE "RANDOM CLOCK TALKS" TAPES AVAILABLE NOVEMBER 1 Michael P. Danner: Interim Editor Regina Stenger: Associate Editor A series of 18 "Random Clock Talks" video tapes in the VHS format will be available Harold J. Herman: Senior Technical Editor on loan to AWi members from the AWi Audio Visual Library beginning November 1, Donna Baas: Production Director 1988. These superb teaching tapes were filmed by J.M. Huckabee in the Huckabee Clock Shop located on the J-Bee Ranch, just north of Austin, Texas. The tapes will be a Nancy Wellmann: Bus~ness Manager valuable learning experience for the novice clockmaker as well as the experienced crafts Margie M. Brater: Circulation Manager man. Huckabee shares a lifetime of knowledge gained in the clock shop and as an en gineer with IBM. Viewing these tapes is virtually the same as serving an apprenticeship at Mildred Howard: Circulation the side of this master craftsman.
TECHNICAL EDITORS:
James Adams Wes Door • Robert F. Bishop Henry B. Fried James H. Broughton Ewell D. Hartman Fred S. Burckhardt Robert A. Nelson Edgar "Nick" Cleves Archie B. Perkins Steven G. Conover Marshall F. Richmond Joe Crooks Marvin E. Whitney EJ I AW/ OFFICERS:
Robert F. Bishop, CEWS: President Alice B. Carpenter, CMW, CEWS: 1st V. President Wes Door, CMW: Secretary Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treasurer
AWi DIRECTORS: J.M. Huckabee retired from IBM in 1986 with more than 38 years of service. His career James Adams, CMW began in the Time Equipment Division, in the Field Service Organization in Jackson, James H. Broughton, CEWS Mississippi. Nearly ten years' tenure in the Electric Typewriter Division was spent in Lexington, Kentucky. These years were spent in development of technical literature, and Buddy Carpenter, CMC, CEWS working in Development Engineering. Moving to the Austin I BM plant in 1968, Huckabee Henry Frystak, CMW worked in various Development Engineering assignments, retiring as an Advisory Scientist. Ewell D. Hartman, CMW Huckabee was an award winner in the British Horological Institute annual technical Donald R. Loke examinations of 1968, and was made a Fellow in 1969. In 1971, he became an AWi Ben Matz, CMW Certified Master Clockmaker. Retirement is being spent helping others elevate their Robert A. Nelson, CMW, CEWS, FAWI skills in clockmaking. Marshall F. Richmond, CMW The November Horological Times will list all of the tapes available. Copies will be loaned Thomas H. White: Affiliate Chapter Director for one week. A rental fee of $5 for each tape will cover the costs involved in producing and shipping the tapes. Lists of the tapes will be compiled just as soon as tape duplica Dwight Tubb: Research and Education tion has been completed by mid-October. A copy can be obtained by sending your re Council Director quest with a self-addressed, business-size envelope (25 cents postage). Future plans call William Biederman, CMW: Past President for the sale of individual tapes at a special AWi member discounted price of $19.95. Thus, you will be able to preview the tapes on loan, then purchase those you would Milton C. Stevens, FAWI: Executive Secretary like to keep permanently for your own use. Michael P. Danner: Administrative Director
Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without per mission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copy ON THE COVER: This late October scene was photographed at Hocking Hills State right© 1988 by the American Watchmakers Institute. Park, east of Logan, Ohio. Photo by Regina Stenger of Cincinnati, Ohio.
2 Horological Times/October 1988 ~ No Need To oUGG Disassemble ~~~~~~\~ ~ Gear Train ~~~-z..C\; V~~ -..\~ ~ ~ ~~ "\ <1"\1,. c;o clean a quartz movement, spray \...._ Ur ~~ QUARTZ CLEAN solvent into the gear \ ,.....\ .., '\. t ? train through pivot holes and both sides of the \ \, ""~ main plate for a total of about six seconds. IMME- ~ DIATEL Y blow off any remaining solvent with any high pressure dry filtered air. QUARTZ CLEAN is ideal for clean- ing quartz watch movements. It is designed for the low volume user who wishes to experiment with spray cleaning. QUARTZ CLEAN is a high purity, rapid penetrating cleaning solvent that quickly dissolves contaminants. QC-16...... $9.95 Cleans Quartz Watch Movements Simply Blow Away In Seconds Contaminants
Dust Off II with trigger nozzle TO·G2 .•.. .. $28.50 Dust Off II Refill TO·GR2 ...... •••. . • $ 5.95
Movement Holders TO·TR3 ....••••.•••.• $ 3.95 a total of about 6seconds. IMME Insert the four inch plastic spray tube DIATELY BLOW OFF any remain into the nozzle of the QUARTZ ing solvent with high pressure dry CLEAN can. Grasp the metal main filtered air or a suitable moisture frame of the movement with a pair of free air can. DO NOT allow the tricep grippers or a sturdy pair of solvent to evaporate from the metal tweezers. Position the move the movement. Spray from all directions movement. IT MUST BE BLOWN ment one to two inches in front of the aiming into the gear train, through pivot OFF TO CARRY AWAY THE DIS spray nozzle and direct the spray into holes, and both sides of the main plate, for SOLVED CONTAMINANTS.
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Prices and availability subject to change without notice. Minimum order $15.00.
October 1988/Horological Times 3 Due to recent surgery, President Bishop 's column will not appear this Robert F. Bishop, CEWS month; it will return again in the November issue. This month in place of the "President's Message," we are featuring an announcement which has significant impact on the future of A WI and the members it serves. This article was prepared by the "Horological Times" staff
AWi COLLECTION WATCH #11 RETURNS "HOME" TO PATEK PHILIPPE IN GENEVA, SWITZERLAND
t a press conference in New York, NY, Tuesday, A'11 September 13th, it was revealed that negotiations be ~\ tween AWi Central and the Patek Philippe Co. in Geneva, Switzerland have resulted in the return of this famous celestial timepiece to its maker, Patek Philippe & Co. It is especially fitting that this transaction should occur on the eve of the l 50th Anniversary of the existence of Patek Philippe. A gala celebration and showing is planned during the Anniver sary year 1989 and this watch will play a very prominent role. After the celebration, the watch will remain in the private museum of Patek Philippe in Geneva. It will be accorded the attention and exposure that this exceptionally fine timepiece The rear cover. Note the engraved sunburst and initials for James Ward deserves. Packard. The watch contains a minute repeater, striking on three gongs, and operated by a separate train activated by a slide located on the left side of the case. For more than a year, AWi has been seeking the "right" buyer for this watch and few will quarrel with the fact that its original maker in Geneva was the right buyer. The AWI Board of Directors, in approving the sale, felt that by returning the watch to its "home," they were insuring that this precious timepiece will receive the care and attention it deserves. As one Board member expressed it, while several prospective purchasers were being considered, "Returning the watch to Patek Philippe not only pleases my sentimental instincts, but somehow it seems to be the right and honorable thing to do." Others expressed pleasure that the watch will not be bandied around from one auction to another, giving specu lators the opportunity to "turn a fast buck." The sale price, 1.3 million dollars, is the highest price ever paid for a single watch not having gemstones set in its case. As a result of the sale, a special fund has been established and safeguards developed so that only interest earned from the fund can be used to supplement the general operating funds of the Institute. At the time of this writing the AWI Board is planning to meet in late September for a special session to make permanent the perpetual fund, which, through its invest ment in U.S. Government securities, will enable AWi to rees tablish a number of activities curtailed in recent years due to a financial crisis. One of the actions the Board is expected to take is to rescind a $10 dues raise which was scheduled to go into effect at the beginning of 1989. One AWi official was quoted as saying that the special fund, to be known as the AWi Perpetuation Fund, is very appropriately named. While it will not insure that AWI Dial side view of James Ward Packard's watch. Visible are twelve in will not not face financial restraints, it will insure the per dicators, eleven hands, and a moon phase disk. (This watch is described in detail by Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D. in the September and October 1985 petuation of the educational and service benefits at a level issues of Horological Times.) members have enjoyed in the past. 'i:iCIE
4 Horological Times/October 1988 Summer Super Lite Special FREE Panasonic Super Lite w/batteries $695 retail value With Every 100 Panasonic Watch Batteries!
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October 1988/Horological Times 5 Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI, * FNAWCC
A WATCH FROM LANCASHIRE
I have a watch which I've had since about 1949 when I was at Q Bradley School of Horology. The photos show the markings on the case, and the movement, which has a lever escapement. I would appreciate any information concerning the history or the origin of this watch. Robert W. Brock Rome, GA A Your watch was cased in 1877. The letter fsl in that frame gives the year. By t"!fin'it was factory made in Lancashire. Some already had abandoned the fusee and chain; others put in a dummy barrel where the fusee was. It's still a nice product despite the lack ofjewelry.
(Please turn to page 9)
6 Horological Times/October 1988 Flat Waterproof Gaskets
REnLL STOCK WI DT H OF INSIPE DUTSIO[ WATERPROOF "UMBER NU MB ER BA ND MIM DIA. M/ M DIA.MIM .llttrel 00 616 .60 15.90 17.10 0. 616! .50 16.50 17.50 OA 617 .55 16.90 18.00 GASKETS ::;,::: OB 618 .55 18.00 19.10 oc 619l .50 19.20 20.20 I. 6191 .60 19.80 21.00 IA 6201 .60 20.35 21.50 lB 621 .60 21.00 22.20 2. 621 ! .60 21.60 22.80 3. 6221 .60 22.35 23.45 0 3A 623 .50 22.90 23.90 4. 623! .60 23.40 24.60 5. 625 .65 25.00 26.30 Borel 0-Ring Gaskets ~ ~ :t~rproof ~asket 6. 626 .60 26.00 27.20 ~ ASSORTMENTS 7. 626! .65 26.80 28.10 for Casebacks and 8. 627! .60 27.85 29.10 9. 628! .60 28.55 29.75 Battery hatches 0-Ring Price 10. 71 7 .70 17.00 18.40 11. 718! .70 18.60 20.00 60/1 1 each of 86 sizes 18.75 12. 720! .70 20.60 22.00 Cross section - inside diameter (in mm) 60/1 B 1 each of 120 sizes 26.00 12A 723 .75 23 ,10 24.60 13. 724 .75 24.00 25.50 60/3 3 each of 86 sizes 37.50 13A 724! .70 24.60 26.00 Battery 60-1750 75-2760 90-2670 14. 725! .70 25.65 27.00 60/38 3 each of 120 sizes 52.50 14A 726 .75 26.00 27.50 Hatch 60-1790 75-2790 90-2710 15. 61/1 1 each of 42 sizes 10.95 726! .75 26.50 28.00 Gaskets 60-1970 75-2825 90-2740 16. 727 .70 27.10 28.50 62/3 3 each of 8 best sizes 6.25 17. 7271 .75 27.50 29.00 45-0810 * 60-2100 75-2880 90-2780 18. 727! .70 27.70 29.10 40-1100* 60-2165 75-2910 64/3 3 ea of 22 thin sizes 19.95 18A 728 .75 28.00 29.50 90-2810 19. 7281 .70 28.20 29.60 40-1250 * 60-2500 75-2940 90-2840 19A 7281 .70 28.60 30.00 60-1000 * 20. 729 .70 29.00 30.40 60-2700 * 75-2970 90-2850 Round Flat Price 21. 730 .75 30.00 31.50 60-2800 * 75-2990 90-2860 21A 730! .70 30.40 31.50 22. Case back 60-2900 * 75-3005 90-2880 58/1 1 each of 91 sizes 26.50 73H .75 31.50 33.00 58/3 3 each of 91 sizes 55.70 Gaskets 60-2950 75-3080 90-2900 2.3. 8171 .80 17.20 18.80 35-1800 * 60-3000 * 75-3100 90-2930 55/3 3 each of 8 best sizes 16.50 24. 818! .80 18.20 19.80 25. 819i .80 19.30 20.90 35-2000 * 60-3190 75-3140 90-2950 26. 821! .80 2L60 23.20 35-2100 * 60-3260 90-2980 26A 8231 .80 25.50 25.10 New Black Flat Price 26B 8241 .80 24.60 26.20 35-2400 * 60-3400 80-1650 90-3000 26C 825~ .80 25.60 27.20 35-2500 * 80-1690 90-3020 59/2 2 each of 30 sizes 19.95 27. 826! .85 26.30 28.00 28. 826) .80 26.60 28.20 70-1760 80-1750 90-3040 29. 8261 .80 26.80 28.40 40-1400 * 70-1850 80-1870 90-3050 30. 827) .85 27.30 2900 31. 827) .80 27.60 29.25 40-1500 * 70-1890 80-2030 90-3060 32. 827! .80 27.85 29.50 40-1600 * 70-1930 80-2100 90-3100 33. 828 .80 28.00 29.60 34. 8281 .80 28.35 29.90 40-1700 * 70-1960 80-2750 90-3140 ~ 'L "G" Jules Borel & Company, 1110 Grand Avenue, Kansas City, MO 64106 National Order Desk - 1 ·800-333-4646 Borel & Frei, 712 South Olive, Los Angeles, CA 90014 .llttrel National Order Desk - 1 ·800·654·9591 .llttrel Otto Frei - Jules Borel, P.O. Box 796, Oakland, CA 94604 National Order Desk - 1·800·772·3456 October 1988/Horologi.cal Times 7 l)ench Tipi Joe Crooks / Next, using a pen vice and a flat drill, put a slight Another Rust Buster countersink at each felt pen mark. Put it in the dial machine, using solder and flux, center foot in countersink, and solder. Use Bergeon Tool No. 30511 to remove all excess solder, Mr. Leo Jaros/aw of Acton, MA sent us this tip for October. cut feet to proper length, and fit to movement. n the May 1987 issue of Horological Times you wrote about rust penetrants. I have used AeroKroil II in the aerosol can for several years. This is especially effective in loosening the screws holding case parts together • in French crystal regulators. I've had some experience with these beveled glass and brass French clocks also. They all seem to have rusty screws where they hold the brass frames and glass together. c'e:~~ This is caused from brass polish the customers used on their p1-A6(i ~ clock. It corrodes and starts rust on iron screws! Leo sent me a flyer about Kano's Krail rust remover ~~··" '/t"J.O A that he uses with great success. That stuff has been around for the past 47 years and is used by 480 of the largest manu A B c facturers in the good old US of A. They improved Krail a few years ago by adding silicone to it. The new product is Hugh, you have worked out a good, quick method called SiliKroil. It can be used to dissolve rust and lubricate to make accurate templates for repositioning dial feet to fit rusty parts so they can be loosened much easier. Also, it's a new type movement. As you stated in your letter, you very good used as a cutting or tapping oil. can measure with a ruler, depth micrometer, and calipers, which are time consuming and nerve wracking. It ends up being a loss of time, money and patience when you wind up with a crooked dial on the new movement. It's also hard on Retrofitting Dial Feet your religion! A good template is the way to go. The clear plastic Hugh used is (by my mike) 0.18mm Our second tip this month is from Hugh Drake of Montrose, thick and easy to work with. I found that by using a needle CA. just a tad larger than the dial foot hole, you could prick the marks on the template quick and accurately. The prick holes his is how I find the spots to replace the feet on the are then large enough to use your center punch to line up the dial to receive a new make movement. First, obtain a holes to be punched out on the staking tool. Actually, these lrsheet of clear plastic from your stationery store. Pick deep prick marks from the needle will line up just right on the the movement to be used and cut a strip a little wider than the staking tool to punch out the dial feet holes with no drift. movement and about two inches long. To mark the new dial feet positions, fit a fiat drill . A. Using a punch with your stake, make a hole that of the correct diameter in a screwdriver. Shape the end with will fit snugly over the hour wheel. very little cutting angle so that the blade will make an almost B. Place the strip over the movement and hour fiat bottom hole half the distance through the dial. wheel. Scribe a line from the center hole to the 3 mark over I don't like the word "retrofitting" that we have the stem. Line up the mark holding steady, head over the picked up for replacing movements. "Retro" means back movement, looking straight down (not angled!). Put a prick wards, behind or back behind. Makes you think of a Retro mark over the direct center of each foot hole. Punch these Rocket going through the sky with flames shooting out its out and go back over the movement to check if the holes rear end. How does "refurbish" grab you? are correct. C. After removing old feet from the dial and cleaning properly, scribe a mark from the center hole to 3 mark on SEND YOUR TIPS TO: Jingle Joe, the back of the dial. Flip your template over, lining up the AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, OH 45211. scribe marks. Use a felt pen to mark the spot for the feet. At this time make sure to identify the template with the movement number so that we can use it over and over. 8 Horological Times/October 1988 Your watch pictured is really QUESTIONS & ANSWERS grade Swiss product made about 1880- 1890. Swiss of the 1860-70 period. (Continued from page 6) A The quality is rather poor and probably was sold cheaply. It has no real value as an antique since so many Can you provide me with any Could you please help me thousands were made. information about this watch? identify this watch? Maiden Q The cylinder escapement used in Q Lane is on the dial and move- The silver case is engraved inside back cover: this watch also is of modest quality and ment. The movement is jeweled, but it was used mainly in cheap watches. The has a steel pallet and the center wheel watch probably has six jewels at most, is not jeweled. A harp 0 possibly only three. ?.:w· H. Engelhardt is stamped on the move- It was key wound and key set. ment under the balance Barwalde Y Porn. GF is the maker of the case (unidenti wheel. fied). The watch had little timekeeping c:=r==:f This is stamped on what Does it have any value? The watch was value to an army officer as it was cumber _/ appears to be a solid gold removed from the body of a German some and required much attention to - ' hunting case. army officer during the Battle of the keep running probably a family William E. Barton Bulge, Belgium. momenta. · Great Falls, MT R.E. Hartman Henry B. Fried Princeton, WI I need to know where I can buy high carbon steel for making Q springs for repeaters. I have tried numerous material houses with no luck. John L. Fuller III Austin, TX Your request of where to buy A high carbon steel for making I have examined the photo of springs for repeaters was re your watch as best as I could. As fe"ed to me for an answer. A you must realize, it is not a good I have tried several sources photograph from which to make an recently for high carbon water hardening identification. Therefore, I must go on sheet steel. So far I have not located a from the trademark that you reproduce source for this material. It seems that the and from knowledge of the Maiden Lane steel companies do not make this any names on the dial and movement. more. I would suggest that you use old The movement, from what I can clock and watch mainsprings for this make out, is Swiss. The trademark of purpose. Of course, the mainspring the harp belongs to Roskopf of Swit material will need to be annealed so it can zerland. be worked and then rehardened and The name Maiden Lane on a tempered after the part has been made. watch is a registered mark on a very High carbon oil hardening sheet highly jeweled Seth Thomas watch. steel can be bought from machine shop The Maiden Lane watch was the very top supply houses who sell Starrett or Brown of the Seth Thomas line of watches and and Sharpe products. The Starrett stock today brings very high premium prices is #496 oil hardening precision ground on the antique watch market. Your watch flat stock. The Brown and Sharpe stock is definitely NOT Seth Thomas, that is high carbon oil hardening flat ground much I can make out. stock type OJ. This stock comes in It was not unusual for Swiss different thicknesses starting at 1 /64 ", makers to fake American names to the thinnest. impress a buyer in this country. That I hope I have been of help to practice continued until stopped by the you. US. government back in the 1880s. Archie B. Perkins From what I can observe of your watch through magnification, it is a medium October 1988/Horological Times 9 BULLETIN OARD A. NEW REQUESTS OPERATING BULLETIN OR INFORMATION REGARDING A MICROTEST TESTER I have a Microtest No. Bat. 340.00 quartz watch tester which is a handy little gadget_. However, where the instruc tions mention: - "Audible 'Pip' and alternately flashing green diodes," I find some movements do not alternate (such as V220A -2e20A); and when some movements don't, every once in a while they do alternate. Movements with sweep sec onds hands always do. Is there some way of knowing which ones do and which ones don't? B.M., Georgetown, MA THE AMERICAN CLOCK COMPANY - CHICAGO An AWI member in Pocatello, Idaho seeks information for the repair and servicing of an American Clock Com pany electric clock. The address given on the clock is Chicago, Illinois. It has two electromagnets with a ratchet mechamism and switch. This is a pendulum movement and has patent numbers: November 21, 1899 and July 31, 1900. AWI has secured copies of the patent drawings and specifications, but would like to copy any technical instructions that may be available for this clock. sue CRYSTAL CATAWG Two AWI members presently seek a copy of a catalog for SUe crystals. AWI does not have one in its files. If a reader can supply a copy, we will photocopy it for our two members and keep one on hand for future requests. It is our understanding that sue crystals have not been manu factured for some time. HAMILTON 500 AND 505 BATIERIES Several times this month we have been asked for a substi tute energy cell to use in the Hamilton 500 and 505 watches since batteries are no longer available for these specific watches. We would welcome information about suitable substitutes or ideas on how others cope with the problem of a new cell. ACCUTRON 218 COILS An AWi member in Norfolk, Virginia writes: I would like to purchase some Accutron 218 cell coils. Do you know of anyone who can supply some? Your magazine has had some people advertising that they can repair old coils. I would like to find someone who still can repair these coils. EDITOR'S NOTE: From time to time we have become aware of sources for these coils; recently all of these sources have "dried up." Larry Blanchard Co. was the last one we knew of to repair the coils; they no longer offer this service. We would welcome any information available regarding a source for coils or their repair. 10 Horological Times/October 1988 YOU DON'T NEED B. RESPONSES THIS TOOL! (if you have 3 hands) WATERBURY 3-PLATE CIIlME CLOCK We received copies of the patent papers for this 3-plate chime clock employing the rack and snail mechanism and forwarded them to our member in Port St. Lucie, FL. They were quite descriptive. We were "red-faced" to learn from Steven Conover that he had done a sequel to his original article on the count wheel version of this clock which appeared in the June 1987 HT GLASS SHEETS FOR CRYSTALS This request appeared on page 10 of the September issue and was immediately answered on page 11 in the American Perfit Crystal Corp. announcement of a "Glass Starter System." What is best about their blanks is that they are tempered to retard breakage. Other suggestions received include: glass from Kodak which they supply for covering 35mm slides; glass supplied by microscope firms for slides. It should be noted that these are not tempered, are very thin, and do break easily. Another source is J. Borel who sells Bergeon Swiss round mineral glass blanks which are said to cut easily with a diamond point. These are said to be fine quality. CUSTOM-MADE WATCH MAINSPRINGS We were advised to check the Thompson Register at the local library which listed sources for small coiled springs. We did and there are many listings. To date we have written 12 of them to see if they will custom make and/or supply ,...... ~ · -~ --;.";:.===t~!Ml . llJl.P.. just one spring. No responses yet. "Bulletin Board" will ll'Jlltl , ~ '-'tl"""''"'"'----r::::====-_. keep you posted. HOWEVER; when you need an extra hand, This could be just the tool required. C.ITEMS STILL NEEDED A hand vise made specifically for the assembly and disassembly of the new style link bands which use screws. STARK LATHE This vise is fitted with an adjustable An AWI member in Cape Coral, FL has purchased a wheel table to accept different band thick cutting lathe manufactured by the Stark Tool Company of Waltham, MA. From the center of the collet to the bed nesses. Manufactured by BERGEON, one measures 2% inches. AWi's call to directory service in of the finest names in the precision Waltham, MA failed to reveal a listing for this firm, and tool industry. AWi's lathe expert, Archie Perkins, has no data on it. Our Vise only with one blade ...... $21.95 member seeks an operator's manual. If you can provide a manual, we will photocopy it and return your manual to Vise complete with 4 blades, screwdriver you. and wooden stand ...... $42.95 Order by No. 6607 DISTRIBUTED BY: Do you have information regarding this month's requests? ray gaber co. Do you need information about one of this month's respon 800 PENN AVE.e PITTSBURGH, PA 15222 e 412/281-4323 ses? If so, send a self-addressed stamped business-size envelope and your request to: "Bulletin Board," Horological CALL TOLL FREE Times, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, OH 45211. PA 800-792-2820 NATIONAL 800-245-5090 October 1988/Horological Times 11 WATCHE~ James Broughton, CEWS USING A HEAT GUN AND ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT TO FIT MINERAL CRYSTALS ne of the benefits of being a bench course instructor seconds with the electric paint stripper. It's easy to tell when for AWI is that the instructor has the opportunity to stop heating because the crystal will be able to be pushed t() to come in contact with watchmakers from every out with a screwdriver. CAUTION: Do not use your fingers corner of the country. Frequently, the instructor comes to remove the crystal-it will burn! While the bezel is still away from the course having learned as much as his students. hot you can remove the residue in the bezel by running a On one such occasion I was presenting a course in New piece of pegwood around it. Jersey. As he frequently does, Don DeWolf came by to lend While discussing this in my workshops, others have me a hand. At the end of the program he handed me a small recommended another method for removal; it must work syringe-type tube marked "Crystal Clear" and suggested I well because I have heard it a number of times. If you have try it. I did not give it much thought at the time, but later a steam cleaner, place the bezel in the steam and it will be when I tried it in my shop I found it to be an excellent ad come hot enough to allow the crystal to be removed in much hesive for glass and mineral crystals. I did not find it to be the same manner as I described using the heat gun. satisfactory for plastic crystals. Once the bezel is clean you are ready to install the As I give my courses on retrofitting, the subject of new crystal. Apply "Crystal Clear" or any of the other sim fitting crystals is sure to come up. Many people have devel ilar products to the bezel. Be sure that all surface areas of oped their own way of fitting crystal. For those who have the bezel have adhesive applied to them. Place the crystal not yet found a "good" way, you might want to try my into the bezel. It should be noted that these kinds of ad method. hesives can only be cured with ultraviolet light. Place the Regardless of what cement or crystal is used, the bezel in direct sunlight and let it remain there for 4 to 5 first order of business is to make sure that the bezel is ab minutes. The adhesive will then be cured and the bezel will solutely clean. By clean I mean free of old crystal cement, be ready to use. dirt, or oil of any kind. Without a clean bezel, you cannot To make it a little more convenient, I purchased expect to obtain a good bond from any cement. two ultraviolet fluorescent tubes and installed them into a Sometimes when a mineral crystal is broken yet still remains in the bezel, it is difficult to press the old crystal out without leaving bits of broken crystal and old cement adhering to it. Many watchmakers will resort to the obvious method of using a screwdriver or similar tool to scrape this residue from the bezel. Not only does this take a lot of time, but it poses the following dangers: 1. Slipping and scratching the bezel. 2. Slipping and jamming the screwdriver into your finger or hand. 3. Scraping too hard and enlarging the bezel by re moving metal. Some watchmakers will heat the bezel with the flame from an alcohol lamp. The heat softens the old cement and the crystal can be pushed out. This is a much better way than the scraping method, but then you are faced with the task of restoring the bezel to its proper color and polish. Technical literature from some of the watch manufacturers suggests that you place the bezel in boiling water and allow it to boil for 5 or 10 minutes. This works satisfactorily, but does require extra handling and extra time. I shopped around for an electric paint stripper and found one for about $19.95. I heat the bezel for 30 to 45 12 Horological Times/October 1988 spare desk lamp. I can achieve the same results on my crystal jobs as I did with sunlight by placing the bezel under the ultraviolet lamp for about 5 minutes. Since ultraviolet light VIBROGRAF FEATURED can be harmful to the eyes, care should be taken not to look directly into it. I tried using a "grow" light, the kind used PRODUCT OF THE MONTH ... for plants, but had no success with it. The cement that I use, "Crystal Clear," is a product made by the Loctite Corporation; it is a "Duro" product. I Vibrograf MR-600 and M-90••• am sure there are other products around that will do the job. THE I believe that some of the watch companies market such ad COMBO hesives. Check with your material supplier to see what they have; they may have something packaged in a little more convenient form. The container that "Crystal Clear" is pack aged in does not lend itself to easy application to the bezel because of its size. I alter mine by purchasing a hypodermic syringe from the druggist and remove the needle from the syringe. I push the needle into the end of the "Crystal Clear" applicator. Using a little "Crazy Glue," I cement the needle in place. Another method for storing and applying this type of crystal cement is to squeeze all of the tube's contents into a small material tin, keep it covered, then when ready to use, apply it evenly to the bezel with a small screwdriver or sim ilar applicator. Cover the remaining cement in the tin and it will be ready for the next application. The cement will not "cure" while you are using it or in storage so long as it is MECHANICAL AND QUARTZ TIMER ANALYZER shielded from ultraviolet light. THE PERFECT COMBINATION A final word of caution: Many watch cases today Call (516) 437-8700 or write: THREE PAYMENT appear to be metal, but in fact are plastic. Plastic or painted PLAN WITH cases should not be placed under the heat gun. If the case VIBROGRAF US.A. CORP. APPROVED CREDIT is plastic, the ultraviolet curing adhesive will not cure. 'U[J]3 504 Cherry Lane, Floral Park, NY 11001 Servicing the Watchmaker with quality products tor over 50 years. ARE YOU OLD ENOUGH TO REMEMBER WHEN .•. BACK ORDERS FOR WATCH PARTS WERE FEW AND FAR BETWEEN? It's really surprising to hear that people have problems getting watch parts. It is true that many distributors have cut back on their stock of watch material, while emphasizing the more lucrative jewelry and diamond lines. Twin City Supply has remained in the watch parts field, expanding to accomodate the new quartz technology. Through the years, we have also purchased the stock of other material houses, and continue to inventory the older watch parts as well as the so called "hard to find" Japanese watch material. The next time you're having problems, give us a try. Some of our new customers are surprised to find that our orders are shipped nearly 100% complete. We are not surprised. We stock what we sell. TWIN CllY SUPPLY PHONE AREA CODE 612/545-2725 TOLL FREE MERCHANDISE ORDERING NATIONWIDE 800/328-6009 MINNESOTA 800/862-8139 6150 Wayzata"Blvd., Minneapolis MN 55416 TWINCO October 1988/Horological Times 13 CLOCK TBOl!BLESHOOTJNC EDITOR'S NOTE: In this series of articles the author will introduce a method of determining faults in a clock which has Leo A. Jaroslaw seldom if ever been published in literature designed to aid the (All rights reserved by author) ©1988 clock repairer. The method is not unfamiliar to troubleshooters in other industries, and in recent years has become quite familiar to those involved in computer programming. We have seen the "flow chart" approach appear recently in some modern watch technical guides, and perhaps unknowingly some watch and clock repairers may have developed a less defined system in their own work. In this series, Mr. Jaros/aw will "walk" the reader through the process of using this meth od to troubleshoot clocks. Hopefully, it will result in more efficient and profitable repair strategies for the reader. A DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEMS APPROACH PART ONE About the Author: Leo A. Jaroslaw has worked as a trouble Much has been written on the theory of clock (watch) shooter on aircraft electrical, instrument and hydraulic systems mechanisms, including their repair. Troubles, however, are for the U.S. Air Corps (WWII) and subsequently for several usually hidden in a sentence or two buried in the general text. major airlines. Later, he went on to work for a major manu It is the purpose of this series of articles to provide you with facturer of automatic bowling pinsetters. He set up and direct both an introduction to, and practice in, troubleshooting skills ed the factory service school, concurrently traveling all over as applied to clocks and similar mechanisms. the country as a troubleshooter when the local people were In this series we will discuss and practice the strategy stumped. Later, in a state agency these skills were applied as of troubleshooting in general, and the specific tactics as ap an internal consultant and troubleshooter for organizational plied to clocks. performance. In 1966 he took up antique clock repair as a hobby. Now it is a full-time profession. The point is that after Troubleshooting Definitions learning good troubleshooting techniques on aircraft and Let us first define troubleshooting so that we all have the same other electro-mechanical systems, J aroslaw reasoned that frame of reference. these techniques could be applied to completely different The Random House Dictionary (1967, unabridged equipment, and to organizational operations. Only the spe ed.): Troubleshooter - 1. A person with special skill in resolv cific steps were to be changed. ing disputes, impasses, etc. as in business, national and interna tional affairs. 2. also called "troubleman," an expert in dis INTRODUCTION covering and eliminating the cause of trouble in mechanical Clock troubleshooting differs from clock repairing. Trouble equipment, power lines, etc.; also "troubleshooter." shooting can be defined as hunting for and/or locating the Webster's New World Dictionary of the American cause(s) of the clock (or any other equipment, system, or Language (College· ed. 1964): Trouble-shooter - a person who organization) malfunctioning. Clock repairing is the clearing locates and repairs mechanical breakdowns; person charged of the malfunction and returning the clock to normal opera with locating and eliminating the source of trouble in a flow of tion. The basic skill requirements also differ. The trouble work. shooter must be able to analyze and diagnose problems, must Another name for troubleshooter is a problem solver. know how the mechanism or system works normally, in or We will use trouble and problem synonymously throughout der to recognize a malfunction. The repairer, however, could this series. get by without such skills. S/he needs to be proficient in the In clock repair work, trouble implies that the clock manual skills of metal working, woodworking, mechanical or one of the systems which make up the total mechanism is assembly and adjusting, as well as cleaning and lubricating pro not functioning as it should. Something is preventing such cesses. Persons working alone, either professionally or as an normal operation. The trouble (problem) could have a single amateur, need to have both skills. Some excel in one or the cause, but it also may be a build up and combination of other. In large shops there may be specialists. several causes. 14 Horological Times/October 1988 The basic purpose of clock troubleshooting is to be able to return the clock to normal operation as effectively as possible. It doesn't matter whether you are a professional clock repairer or a collector/hobbyist working on his or her own clock. NEW for '89! NOTE: Definition - Peter Drucker, one of America's greatest management consultants and writers, defines efficient - doing things right; and effective - doing the right things right. Introducing ... We will use this definition of effective in this text. TOLEDO JEWELERS TROUBLESHOOTING STRATEGIES new. exclusive line of Most people do not differentiate between strategy (the ap proach to be taken) and tactics (steps to accomplish the stra egy). When we discuss troubleshooting strategy we are talking about approaches that apply to any equipment, system, or \(IMAGES" organization. Some people, when they hear about how some one has attacked a problem, will be at a loss to see how that ... Fine Fashion Watches strategy would work in their situation. They see only the tactics (steps) that were taken rather than the larger picture of the approach. The basic strategy for troubleshooting is to identify and/or verify symptoms, locate the trouble, and bring the equipment/system back to nromal operating conditions. There are many variations on the theme. However, some strategies are not as effective as others. We want to discuss some gen eralities, and then get into what extensive research has shown is used by the most competent troubleshooters, in a variety of different situations. STRATEGIES - GENERAL As a troubleshooter you have to move from a position of little or no knowledge of what is causing the clock to stop, or not strike, or gain time, etc., to a firm belief in the cause of the problem. Starting in the position of little or no knowledge, we have to gather information about symptoms. How is the equipment operating, if at all? What are the conditions of the equipment and/or its location? In some equipment (we are still discussing generalities, not specifically clocks) we use meters, gauges, other test equipment, taste, smell, and feel to get this information which we will interpret to determine the cause. \\IMAGES" Since we are trying to get the equipment up and running properly in the shortest possible time, we must gather the information first from those sources which have the most A TIME FOR FASHION! potential for pertinent information with the least amount of we have created a line of watches that have the effort. Some usual sources of information are: distinctive high-fashion look of expensive 1) Experience. The troubleshooter's memory gained watches. In fact, your customers will have to by experience with the same or similar equipment, instruction turn over the price tag to see the biggest and/or study of books, manuals, etc. in the same or related difference. Prices ranging from as little as $39.95 fields. If based upon this memory, however gained, the trouble to $69.95 !suggested retalll wm earn you shooter can place a cause upon hearing, or witnessing a symp better than keystone profits! we offer a tom or set of symptoms, s/he can then go directly to that large selection of the newest and most popular cause. styles ... all backed by our New watch warranty. Symptoms, however, should be verified before jump • Phone Today For Your FREE watch catalog! • ing to conclusions. Only then should trouble clearing (repair) take place. Everything For the Watchmaker! 2) Operators. NOTE: We are still discussing gen eralities for strategy, and not specifically clocks. We will get TOLEDO JEWELERS to clocks when we apply the strategy. 245 Twenty-Third St., P.O. Box 975 Operators of equipment (owners of clocks) are a good Toledo, Ohio 43624 source of information about what went wrong. They may not TOLL FREE ORDERINCI recognize the problem or its cause, but they may be able to Ohio 1800> 472-0120 describe the symptoms. They are usually present when the Others <800> 537-0260 malfunction occurs. Many times without knowing it they may Please turn to page 20 October 1988/Horological Times 15 SHOPTALK Wes Door, CMW Module Replacements ast month we discussed replacing modules and/or the minute hand, and it probably needs to be closed slightly. selling a new watch. Today we will presume our This can be done in the usual way with our staking set and the IL customer's choice is a new module. Maybe this proper punch. Be careful not to leave any burrs as the clear decision was made for sentimental reasons or maybe because ance between hands on our quartz may be less than the cus our customer's watch has a 14 karat case. We can retrofit tomer's old mechanical watch. If our "crystal ball" is wrong whether the watch is a mechanical or a quartz. If the watch and we also need to close the hour hand hole size, we can had a quartz module originally, it would be easier to retrofit use our stake set. If the hole sizes on the hands need to be en for several reasons: (1) the module thickness may be easier larged, we can hold them in a hand-holding device and broach to match, (2) the hands may have a better chance of having to fit. the same hole sizes, and (3) we may even luck out in matching Some prefer the following method for enlarging the the dial feet location. opening in the hour hand: Instead of broaching, one may To retrofit a movement or module we must first split open the back of the hour hand as shown in the illustra select a proper quartz replacement module. It must be the tion at "A". Some of us are old enough to remember that same size or smaller in order to fit it in the case. If the original certain companies did this on some of their watch hands. To movement is a 5 ligne movement, naturally we must replace use this method it is very important to cut a very, very narrow it with a 5 ligne movement. If the original movement is 10* slit. This can be done with a very narrow circular diamond ligne, for instance, we should replace it with another 10% disc purchased from a local friendly dentist. ligne movement. However, we could use a smaller one if it It is most important to have a nice looking fmished was necessary and fill in the extra area between the movement job, so if reworking these hands is not feasible then it will and the case. (Next month we will discuss this type of retro be necessary to fit new hands. Good lightweight quartz hand fitting.) assortments are available, and the second hands are counter Since our watch (today) is a 5 ligne and we have a balanced. new 5 ligne movement to use as a replacement, we have no filling in to do. Our concern is that the new movement is not thicker than the original. It can be the same thickness or even a little thinner, if necessary. This movement will not need any corrective fitting if its pillar plate has a lip on each end that matches the original movement ends. On this two-piece dress-type case these lips will allow the new movement to set on the caseback at exactly the same position as the old one did, thereby being at the same height even if the new move ment is thinner. Other concerns we have are the hands, stem, crown, and dial feet placement. HANDS If we are real lucky maybe our customer's watch j__ A hands will fit; however, if we are converting from a mechanical to a quartz they probably won't. The customer should be informed that we may need to change the hands due to the STEMS difference in the hole sizes. (Also, remember that hands One of our best investments is a good assortment designed for quartz watches are very light and on the sweep of quartz stems. These are available from our regular suppliers second models the second hands are counter balanced.) with interchangeable charts which are necessary for proper If we are using the customer's hour and minute quartz identification. In addition to these assortments, we hands (which should be all right, weight-wise, on this size must make up our own for those needed numbers not found movement), we may need to correct the hole sizes. If just one in our assortments. We used to order a "quarter dozen" hand needs correcting, our "crystal ball" tells us it's probably of a number and we saved money over the "per each" price. 16 Horological Times/October 1988 Since the savings is no longer there (on many parts), it is The most common of these has a spring-loaded center sec tempting to order just one. But because one of Murphy's Laws tion which helps to keep out dirt, etc. We must be careful that says that "if a customer breaks one stem they will probably the tension of this spring action does not allow the stem and break another one," I recommend buying at least two. Tiris crown to slip out to the set position while on our customer's gives us a chance to give faster service and it forces us to find wrist. (3) The Japanese style crowns come in various sizes a place to put that extra stem. Our "personal" stem cabinet many of which have very long tubes with very small diameters, will thereby grow and grow. around which is placed a small 0 ring gasket. Although genuine crowns can be ordered for most STEM EXTENDERS of our name brand watches, we should stock some new crown Sometimes we need to lengthen a stem. Stem ex· assortments containing these new styles to be used on other tenders screw onto the stem to give us that extra length we watches. need. Also, these are now available in different tap sizes on each end. Otherwise we may need the female end to be DIAL FEET a tap 10 (to fit on the stem) and the male end to be tap 11 If we are lucky, we might be able to select a replace to fit the newly selected crown. Several combinations are ment module that has the same dial feet arrangement. (We now available. will talk more about this in the next two articles.) If we are going to have the dial refinished we should first relocate the CROWNS dial feet (if necessary). If we have equipment to solder on new Generally it is desirable to replace the watch crown feet (without burning the dial), then we can always replace when retrofitting. Many quartz watch crowns are smaller in dial feet. If not, we may want to use dial dots or other stick-on diameter and tube openings. Tap sizes also vary and include type materials to hold the dial in place. the popular tap 10, 11, 12, and now even tap 13. We must Many watchmakers do not believe in using anything carefully select the proper tap size to match the stem thread. less than dial feet. Some feel that it depends on the grade It is quite easy to be fooled sometimes and use a tap 10 crown of the watch. on a tap 11 stem, etc. The pendant post (or case tube if you prefer) should be measured, and a crown marked for that Next month we will retrofit small modules to larger particular opening must be used. openings and learn how to fill in that extra case space. The We actually must stock three types of crowns: (1) following month we will show some very detailed module The water-resistant type, formerly (but now improperly) interchangeability charts. referred to as the waterproof type. (2) The dustproof type. e CRYSTAL GRINDER $237.50 e F-BLK-50 ASS'T - 1 GROSS FLAT UNFINISHED TEMPERED BLANKS (1 mm. flat in variety of shapes} ...... $171.50 • RG-1 ASS'T 1 GROSS REGULAR BLANKS (inside height with no walls) ...... $205.00 • VIDEO TAPE FITTING GLASS WATCH CRYSTALS ...... $29.50 $643.60 SPECIAL PRICE TO INCLUDE ALL OF THE ABOVE ...... $550.00 ORDER FROM YOUR WATCH MATERIAL WHOLESALER - AMERICAN PER FIT CRYSTAL CORP. 653 Eleventh Ave. New York, NY 10036 I October 1988/Horological Times 17 [}:{]@[Q)@ ~ ~@[Q)@~ ~@[Q)@~ John A. Nagle Mending Clock Hands With Silver Solder ~·/hy do birds like to rest on telephone wires? Does it Y{f ~ tickle their feet when we talk? No pretentions, folks, I am not a writer! Like most of you, I work at the bench and support my family. Comments in past issues of the Horological Times have indicated a lack of articles, and this shouldn't be! Everyone knows something that the other guy hasn't discovered. It isn't enough to pay dues or attend meetings; if our organization is to survive we must • • ' ~l''° 8 • • <>1 ShPCI " 1 o J : 4;>pr:,t) all contribute. Since my thought process is random at best, I decided to use the "Hodge Podge" as my format in processing informa tion to you. I intend to cover subjects that not only put cash in your pocket but will also enhance your reputation. I have two jobs in my shop for repair that require soldering, so that will be this month's topic. A lot of items come in that have been repaired with globs of soft solder, epoxy, or have bits of junk riveted to them. The proper ways of restoration are: 1) make a new Figure 1. Solder, flux, etc. item, or 2) repair the original. I prefer to repair the original if at all possible. If properly done, the repair is tough to spot. Silver solder usually comes in sheets or in little pre The secret is silver solder. Like any other skill, it requires an cut bits. It is available from most jewelry supply houses and understanding of procedure and most important of all, prac isn't all that expensive. I usually buy it by the sheet and cut tice. Silver solder produces a strong, secure joint and can be off pieces as needed for the job. There are three basic types: used to repair anything from clock hands to chime tubes. I've easy, medium, and hard flow. There are other alloys available even soldered a solid dead beat verge with excellent results. to industry for specialized steels but the three aforementioned If we want to be technically correct, when using silver types will be right for our needs. I use hard flow for most solder we are brazing. The American Welding Society has jobs as I feel that it gives the strongest joint. In cases where determined that if the joining medium melts and flows at you have to solder multiple joints, use the hard flow first temperatures higher than 800°F, it's called brazing. A general and decrease the strengths of flow as you go. Th is process is range of 1125°F to 160D°F covers the melting to flow tempera cal led step brazing. tures of the silver alloy solders. Melting, of course, means the Soldering isn't all that difficult if you follow some temperature at which the solder begins to melt, and flow is the basic steps. The item to be soldered has to be clean. There can point at which the solder is in a liquid state. The silver solder be no traces of soft solder or oils, etc., or you will not be able is not pure silver but an alloy which can contain varying to get a good joint. You have to use the proper flux and it percentages of gold, copper, zinc, cadmium, and phospherous. has to be properly heated. Basically, that's all there is to it. 18 Horological Times/October 1988 Our first job is a second hand from a Pennsylvania tall clock. I removed all traces of the soft solder and cleaned it with a scratch brush. You can also use steel wool, rotary wire brushes, etc. I also run the items in the ultrasonic cleaner using a soapy ammonia water solution and then dry well. Re ...-, member, the item has to be mechanically and chemically • clean. Now that we have a clean surface, we have to align and • support it. In this case I am using the third hand. This is a pretty handy tool, but when silver soldering the heat usually takes its toll on the alligator clips, so you will have to have Figure 2. Clock hand before. extras around as replacements. Remember, you want to sup port the item as solidly as possible. After solder flows and you remove the flame the solder is in a plastic state. Any move ment can weaken the joint. Now that the item is set up, we apply the flux. Here again we are concerned with cleanliness of the surfaces to be joined. Fluxes produce and maintain a clean surface during soldering. Fluxes are available in many forms, powders, pastes, etc. When you are heating the surface, any contact with air will produce oxides which will contaminate the sur face. The flux will prevent this. A flux that I have found to be consistent is Dandix silver solder flux. It comes in a paste form. Should it dry out between uses you can just mix in some water to make it pasty again. Cut a small piece of solder and lay it on the joint. Heat with a torch until solder flows and then remove the flame. Allow the item to cool and then clean in a soapy Figure 3. Setup in jig for soldering. ammonia water solution to remove any corrosive residue. You now have a solid joint. (Please turn to next page) WANTED • Abrasion resistant. • Finished polished edge, 1.5 mm thin (.063"). • Sizes KT 3 to 32 in V4 sizes HIGHEST PRICES PAID (17.7 mm to 33.0 mm). • Set KT-97 dozen, in drawer. Your Wholesaler 93/4 WE BUY-SELL-REPAIR has them in stock. $178. ANTIQUE WATCHES- ROLEX - CARTIER - PIAGET AUDEMARS- PATEK PHILIPPE - VACHERON rGe~~~~;;;;Co;;,~~-----~SO'o~~;oa1 COMPLICATED WATCHES- CHRONOGRAPHS Dept. 420, P.O. Box 1091 • Rochester, NY 14603 Ext. 466 I Please send me: D Supplement of watch names I Free Estimates Alfredo Castro o KT-97 9213 doz. in drawer. $178. and corresponding G-S I Complete NAWCC #84972 Cylinder Fancy, Flat Fancy and I D KT-49 4% doz. in drawer. $92. "/!:.' Waterproof. · Restorations AWi #15673 D Information on trade-in of old D I do have #200 Catalog. Send I crystal sets-small monthly pay- latest supplement sheets. I ments - no interest or carrying D I do not have #200 Catalog. I TIJ/tff WATCH CO. charge. Please send. I 36 N.E. 1st STREET, SUITE 360 Name I Seybold Diamond Exchange - (305) 358-8175 Address Phone I Miami, Florida 33132 City State Zip__ I TOLL FREE 1 (800) 843-8974 Wholesaler's Name I ~------~------J October 1988/Horologi.cal Times 19 Another method is to heat the joint until the flux turns into a clear liquid. This usually occurs in stages. At about 212°F flux dries out as water boils off. It then turns milky and starts to bubble around 600°F. Finally it reaches the liquid state at around 1100°F. When it reaches this liquid state, add the solder. After solder flows, remove the flame. Allow to cool, then clean. In both methods, when heating use a large tip on your torch. The faster the item is heated the less the chance for oxides to form. If you don't have a solid joint, check your procedure. Clean? Flux? Proper heat? You won't get a solid joint every time at the first shot so don't get discouraged. Remember, I said it would take practice. If you have a job that requires multiple joints you would hard solder the first joint. Set up job for second joint and then use a medium or easy flow solder. It is also ad Figure 4. Finished job. visable to apply heat sinks between the previously soldered area and the current work area. This will prevent a weakening Some last tips: Have a good fireproof surface be or separation of the other joint. You can buy heat sinks from neath your work. A good supply of fire brick and ceramic electronic supply houses, or make your own by twisting some blocks are handy to have around as backgrounds for different bar stock and clamping it to the item being soldered. While jobs. Your work space should be well ventilated. Most of the we are on the subject of heat sinks, you don't want to clamp silver solders contain zinc and cadmium, which when heated items in heavy vises or huge pliers, etc., as they soak up a lot give off harmful fumes. Cadmium fumes are odorless. If ex of heat. This will delay or practically eliminate any chance of posed, headaches, nausea, etc. can occur and will require soldering because you will not be able to get the item hot medical help. Some fluxes can produce a skin reaction, so enough for the solder to flow. wash thoroughly with soap and water should you come in I don't have a fancy torch system. I use a standard contact with them. Have the proper fire extinguishers handy air/acetylene torch with a few different size tips. I have found and when finished soldering always turn off your torch at the it quite capable of handling any job that I've had to do. For tank. more information on torches you should check Marshall Next time around we'll talk a little bit about repair Richmond's jewelry articles. ing gongs. See you then. or "add paper," or my Ford which has an "engine" light CLOCK TROUBLESHOOTING which comes on when oil pressure is low or water tempera (Continued from page 15) ture is too high. Computers usually have special diagnostic programs which run through the systems, comparing what is happening to what should be, displaying the pertinent information. describe the cause of the problem as well as the symptoms. 5) The Search. If all of the above do not provide the In fact, many of the troubles are caused by them through information necessary to determine the cause, it becomes improper operation and/or maintenance. When you ask what necessary to systematically search the equipment itself. they did, their reply could tell you what is wrong. The systematic search is sometimes time consuming, 3) Troubleshooting Performance Guides. Most therefore it should be a last resort, after more direct informa equipment today comes with an operator's manual. Sometimes tion gathering does not provide satisfactory results. even maintenance manuals with troubleshooting guides are available. In summary, a general troubleshooting strategy in NOTE: Clock people will laugh/cry at the above cludes the five steps outlined above, in order to go from a statement since operator's manuals (owner's information position of no knowledge of the cause of the problem to booklets/brochures) are only a recent innovation, mostly with sure of the cause. grandfathers clocks. Those the writer has seen concentrate on We will continue with Part II next month. the setup, with a few adjustments. Antique/old clocks have nothing from the manufacturer (clockmaker). Only general clock repair books are available. CORRECTION NOTICE The troubleshooting performance guides in these manuals take many formats. They are an extremely useful In the "Pull Repeat" article written by Dean tool in guiding the troubleshooter (problem solver) in a logical sequence. When properly designed, these guides require mini H. Armentrout, published on pages 16-19 mum skill to follow and interpret. For the skilled person they of the September '88 issue of Horological provide a permanent aid, rather than a dependence on memory. Times, Figures 4, 5, and 6 were mistakenly 4) The Equipment. In many kinds of modern equip stripped in upside down by the printer. We ment there are built-in systems to indicate trouble. These apologize for any concern or inconvenience could be lights, meters, or other indicators which either tell this may have caused our readers. the trouble or give indications for interpretation. Many of the electrical machines have lighted signs, e.g. copiers "add toner" 20 Horological Times/October 1988 The AWi Movement Bank * CONSERVING THE PRESENT * * PROVIDING FOR THE FUTURE * he AWI Movement Bank is established for the purpose of providing a reservoir of Your wholesaler discontinued parts for use by present and has them In stock. future generation watchmakers. In time the Bank Why try to fit glass crystals-save will expand to include clock movements as well. time-make fittings easy and avoid ' If desired, a tax credit can be taken for your breakage by using G-S VERl:rHIN crys contribution. If you plan to claim tax credit, indicate tals with beautiful polished edge, 1mm thin (.040 ") G-S sizes 3 to 32 in 1/• sizes (14.6 mm to 33.0 mm) the value you place on your donation at the time you send it; the ELM Trust will acknowledge receipt, and r------1 it will be your responsibility to justify that value to Germanow-Simon Corporation 1-800-448-3400 Dept. 420, P.O. Box 1091 • Rochester, NY 14603 Ext. 466 the IRS in the event they question you about it. 1 Your contribution at this time will hasten Please send me: the day we can begin to service requests for with D Set VT-97 93/• doz., complete D Supplement of watch names range of sizes 3 to 32 in and corresponding G-S drawal from the Bank. Although "Phase I" of the drawer. $177. Cylinder Fancy, Flat Fancy and project deals only with watches, donations of watches, D Set VT-49 4% doz. crystals, "A" Waterproof. clocks, and loose material will be welcome at this every other size in drawer. $92. D I do have #200 Catalog. Send time. D Information on trade-in of old latest supplement sheets. Movement Bank Contributors crystal sets - small monthly pay ments - no interest or D I do not have #200 Catalog. Please send. James Adams J. Kohnowich carrying charge. Alfred H. Dickinson Antonio Marquis Nicholas Garguilo Robert A. Nelson Ralph Geiger Cameron C. Spicknall Address ______Phone ______Fred C. Hougham Harry & Sue Wysong City ______State ____ Zip ___ Send your donation to AWI/ELM MOVEMENT Wholesaler's Name ______BANK, AWi CENTRAL, 3700 HARRISON AVE., CINCINNATI, OH 45211. ~------J WRISTWATCHES Illinois Picadilly G.F. $200.00 I NEED THESE 3 WATCHES TO FILL ORDERS. World Time Patek-Vacheron Agassiz etc. urgently needed. Rolex Stainless 1950 Chronograph ...... 1500.00 up Rolex Bubblebacks, SS ...... 400.00 up Any Split Second Chronograph SS ...... 400.00 up 14K or 18K CALL 14K ...... 1000.00 up Gruen Chronograph, G.F. or SS ...... 200.00 Chronograph With Day-Date Windows, SS .... 200.00 up Patek Philippe 18K Hour Glass Shaped ..... 5000.00 up 14K ... 600.00 up Rolex Oyster Perpetual Moonphase 18K ....10.0 .00.00 Chronograph With Moonphase, SS ...... 300.00 up Stainless ...... 3000.00 14K ...... 800.00 up Patek Philippe 18K Moonphase ...... 12,000.00 up Rolex 18K 1950 Chronograph ...... 5000.00 up LeCoultre Moonphase Day Date G.F ...... 400.00 Patek Philippe 18K Chronograph ...... 9000.00 up 14K ...... 1000.00 Patek Philippe SS Chronograph ...... 3000.00 up Rectangular G.F ...... 1000.00 Vacheron & Constantin & Lecoultre Diamond Early 1 Button Chronograph Porcelain Dial Mystery Dial Watch ...... 800.00 Any Men's Enamelled Bezel or Case Movado Purse Watch (Sliding Lids) With Calendar Any Old Diamond Dial Watches Moonphase ...... 400.00 up CHARLES CLEVES 319 FAIRFIELD AVENUE 1-606-491-0354 Member: AWi, NAWCC BELLEVUE, KY 41073 October 1988/Horological Times 21 • flOV1Ce Wralchrr@ker James Adams, CMW, CMBHI THE QUARTZ WATCH ANALOG* n the past 12 years or so, we have been subjected to prototype of these integrated circuits were demonstrated less and bombarded with about 140 million words con than 5 years earlier in the United States. II cerning quartz technology-some pompous, some BET A 1 used 14 stages of binary frequency counting. frivolous, and some quite technically interesting. This resulted in far too high current consumption and the Now you're saying to yourself, "Gee whiz, not again, power cell (battery) life was about 9 months. For that reason quartz. I'm up to my eyeballs on that subject. Now this clown BET A 2 was being developed right along with BET A 1. BET A is adding more words to the 140 million already printed." 2 used 5 stages of binary frequency counting. Its final stage My answer to you? "Listen up little people and you will was 256Hz (cycles per second). This was transmitted through learn more than you bargained for." a mechanical transducer. BETA 2 extended power cell life For more than 300 years (since 1657), when Christian to about 17 months. It used a power cell of 1.3 volts and Huygens invented the pendulum and the balance wheel un current consumption was right around 16y A. til the advent of the Accutron, there was no real change The commercial versions of this research and develop made in the type of oscillator used in portable timepieces. ment was designated BET A 21, of which 6000 units were Yes, there were vast advances in oscillator design. Refine made in the first series. In April of 1970 the BETA 21 was ments were to such a degree as to allow maritime nations launched on the world market. The frequency rate of the to rely on timepieces with balance wheels to navigate to quartz oscillator was 8192Hz. Girard Perregaux is to be any given point on the world's oceans and shores. credited with introducing the frequency of 32768Hz in 1969. As mentioned, the Accutron by the Bulova Watch This has since become the industry standard. Company stood the world of portable timepieces on its ear. In the beginning, natural quartz crystals were used An engineer, Max Hetzel, had perfected a timepiece that used for the oscillator. These were cut in bar shapes to such dimen a tuning fork as its oscillator, thereby increasing by a factor sions as to vibrate through the piezoelectric effect at a given of 10 the timekeeping rate previously experienced. At about controlled rate. When a cut and formed quartz crystal is sub the same time Patek Philippe and Longines were reducing ject to an electrical charge, it will flex or bend. Properly the physical size of quartz clocks to that of marine chro formed, the quartz crystal will start to vibrate at a given nometers. frequency. Conversely, when the quartz crystal flexes, it It had been known since the end of the 19th century gives out its own electrical output. This electrical output, the piezoelectric properties of quartz crystals. The known generated by the flexing quartz crystal, is directed into the effect of quartz had been applied to the art of time measure integrated circuit (IC). The input of starter electrical energy ment since 1930. Once understood and applied practically, plus some feedback of its own electrical pulsing, energy main it was used to replace the precision pendulum clocks used in tains a steady, very reliable pulse rate. Think of the quartz chronometric observatories. This was done in 1950 at the crystal performing the same function as does the balance Observatoire Chronometrique de Neuchatel. wheel in purely mechanical watches. For many years now, In 1962 the Centre Electronique Horologer SA was to improve stability and vibratory rates, quartz crystals are founded by the Chambre Suisse de l'Horologerie, La Federa cut in a U or tuning fork shape. These are then permanently tion Horologere Suisse, Ebauches SA and numerous inde hermetically sealed in metal cans or capsules. pendent horological firms. From its inception, CEH devoted its time and resources to the development of the piezoelectric analog - of or pertaining to the general class of devices in quartz effect oscillator, suitable for use in a wrist-worn watch. which the output varies as a continuous function of the In order to enter a new concept in wrist-worn time output. keeping at the Observatoire Astronomique et Chronometrique, binary - a number system using a base of 2. There are two Neuchatel Switzerland, it was necessary to reduce the volume digits (1 and 0) in the binary system. A selection, choice or of the wristwatch to a maximum of 3.75cm3, to this volume condition in which there are two possibilities. from functioning quartz clocks of lm3 area. Within five years this feat of engineering was accomplished. integrated circuit - the interconnection of a number of According to the standards of the Observatoire devices in one or more closed paths to perform a desired Astronomique et Chronometrique, a perfect watch would electronic function. theoretically score 0.000. In the year the first quartz watches were submitted for examination at the Observatory, the quartz oscillator - an electronic device which generates alternating watch scored 0.152, the tuning fork watch scored 0.930, current power at a frequency determined by the values of and the best mechanical balance wheel equipped chronometer certain constants in its circuits. scored 1.730 points. The points mentioned were the sum of piezoelectric - the property of certain crystals which (1) pro all errors measured. duce a voltage when subjected to a mechanical stress and The miniaturization of the timepiece was not the (2) undergo mechanical stress when subjected to a voltage. only requirement. The timepiece also had to function with a power cell (battery) life of at least one year. The key to this quartz - a mineral silicon dioxide, occurring in hexagonal power cell life requirement lay in power consumption. These crystals in nature that are highly useful because of their first Swiss quartz watches were designated BET A 1. CEH piezoelectric effect. It is used to accurately control fre created the silicon integrated circuit for the BET A 1. The first quency. *REFERENCES: Swiss Watch & Jewelry Journal, 1/88 22 Horological Times/October 1988 Dictionary of Electronics, Radio Shack his month we are featuring a clock-driven lrorrery by Eric Watson from the "Exhibition of British Clock and Watchmaking Today." This is a full orrery, showing the daily and annual movement of the earth around the sun. The date is indicated by a calendar ring. The moon rotates about the earth in the correct period, and in order to display the view of the moon's phases, keeps its bright side to the sun. The five "bright" planets (those visible to the naked eye) are also shown. From the sun, these are Mercury, Venus, (the earth). Mars, Jupiter (shown with the Galilean moons). and Saturn. All the movements are dis played accurately and will show no visible error in 100 years. The gearing of the orrery is epicyclic, with all the mechanisms being carried round by the earth arm. The orrery is driven by a heavy-duty 8-day clock, specially designed for this purpose. It has a large-scale lever movement which beats seconds, and which has a constant force mechanism. The gearing of the orrery has been designed from first principles so that the gears themselves form the ornamental design in an attempt to produce the ultimate skeleton, ornamental, clock mechanism. Its height is 475mm and the diameter is 650mm. COURTESY OF THE WORSHIPFUL COMPANY OF CLOCKMAKERS, LONDON, ENGLAND Your Sizes: 15.0mmto36.0 mm in Y, mm Wholesaler aso 0 has them s graduations. WMe and yellow rings in in stock- 1 dozen each envelope. Slight wall for hand 7 clearance. TT-10-(LADIES) 9 /,2 dozen, Sizes TT-5-(STARTER SEl) 5 dozen, Sizes 15.0 mm to 26.4 mm, in drawer. $184. 7 26.5 mm to 32.5 mm, in drawer. $100. TT-18-(COMPLETE SET) 17 /, 2 TT-8-(MENS) 8 dozen, Sizes dozen, Sizes 15.0 mm to 36.0 mm, in 26.5 mm to 36.0 mm, in drawer. $155. cabinet. $391. ra";°r;'a';o~Si~;c;;;ti~------;:;0'0-448~001 Dept. 420, P.O. 80• 1091 • Rochester, NY 14603 Ext. 466 Please send me: D Supplement of watch names and corresponding G-S OSetTT-5 $100.DSetTT-10 $184. Cylinder Fancy, Flat Fancy O SetTT-8 $155. 0 SetTT-18 $391 . and "/!\' Waterproof. O Information on trade-in of old D I do have #200 Catalog. Send SINCE 1877 crystal sets - small monthly latest supplement sheets. BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL payments - no interest or D I do not have #200 Catalog. 220 West King Street, Lancaster, PA 17603 carrying charge. Please send. Jewelry Repairing and Stonesetting Engraving Watchmaking and Repairing Clockmaking and Repairing Address ______Phone ______Advanced Stonesetting Techniques City ______State ____ Zip ___ Send for free brochure. An Equal Opportunity Facility L Wholesaler's Name J ------October 1988/Horological Times 23 Steven G. Conover Junghans Chime Movement here is a Junghans chime movement which I must front plate. Figure 3 is a detail of the chime levers at the end admit I don't look forward to repairing. The adjust of the third quarter chime. The chime correction mechanism lrments to the chime levers are a source of frustration is in effect. as far as I am concerned. Several readers have requested in formation on how to adjust the chime levers. Finally, I was OVERALL MOVEMENT able to locate a Junghans Westminster chime wall clock for Our Junghans movement reminds us of other heavy study. spring-driven chime movements of the '20s and '30s. The Figures 1 and 2 show the left and right sides of the Seth Thomas No. 113 comes to mind. The Junghans has a front plate, respectively. The parts on the left are strike, and removable lower front movement plate to permit access to the those on the right are chime. The only part shown on both three mainspring barrels. It is necessary to fully let down the drawings is the locking plate. If the two drawings are super three mainsprings before the lower front plate or the winding imposed on the center arbor, they form a picture of the entire mechanisms are removed or loosened. ' 10 Fl GU RE 1. Junghans chime movement. Principal strike parts on FIGURE 2. Chime parts from right front portion of movement. front left side. 11 chime lift pins (4) 19 chime locking cam 1 hour wheel and snail 6 gathering pallet 12 cannon pinion 20 chime lock pin 2 minute wheel 7 rack 13 lifting piece spring 21 chime locking lever 3 rack hook 8 strike warning pin 14 lifting piece 22 chime correction guide arm 4 strike locking lever 9 strike warning lever 15 locking plate 23 chime warning wheel 5 strike lock pin 10 strike unlocking lever 16 chime warning lever 24 chime warning pin 17 chime unlocking lever 25 chime correction lever 18 chime drop lever 26 spring for correction lever 24 Horological Times/October 1988 The chime train is locking plate controlled. The movement is fitted with an automatic chime correction device • which prevents the hour chime from operating except at the actual hour. The strike is a rack and snail type. SPEC\AL! MAINSPRINGS AND WINDING MECHANISMS The chime and time mainsprings are wound by auxiliary mechanisms. The winding arbor has a small gear on the end to turn a clickwheel which has a greater number of teeth. These gear down the ratio for winding; you wind more turns with less strain. In addition, the mechanisms allow the keyholes to be evenly spaced on the dial with the barrel arbors placed further from the center arbor. The strike is directly wound without an auxiliary mechanism. Repairers usually neglect to clean and inspect the mainsprings and winding mechanisms. Poor performance T-14BSPECIALWITH HEATER AND TIMER is the inevitable result. Often there is damage to barrel teeth, SPECIAL OFFER! The T-14B from L & R wheels, and pinions from "sudden" failures which could easily The ultimate intermediate size ultrasonic have been avoided. Always check for cracked mainsprings, cleaning machine improved even more with damaged clickwheels, and weakened clicksprings. These visible the addition of efficient heating and timing signs usually come before serious damage occurs. components. T-14B regularly sells for If a clock is received for repair because it chimes only $395.00. We are selling it for the low, low five days on a winding, it's just as important to look after the price of $309.95 which is the 1985 price of springs as it is to clean and polish the pivots. It's amazing the T-14B without heater and timer - THE that some repairers wonder why a clock doesn't perform TIMER AND HEATER ARE FREE! In well with bad springs. addition, your choice of one gallon of either jewelry or clock cleaning concentrate FREE - PIN BARREL A value of over $28.00! The pin barrel is mounted on the rear of the move The T-14B with built-in heater and timer ment. It is easier to adjust than most, because the manu provides extra cleaning strength - ideal for facturer has marked the quarter hour chime point for you. volume cleaning. Tank measures 9 3/8" x Here's how it can be adjusted easily. The pin barrel consists 5 3/8" x 4" deep and has 3 3/8 quart ©STEVEN G. CONOVER 1988 capacity and has automatic tuning. A fine piece of machinery with a fine price to match! T-14BJ - (Jewelry) ...... $309.95 T-14BC - (Clock) ...... $309.95 (Regular price of T-14B alone - $395.00) _.. ..,.,"4- .--...... BARGAIN BASKET NOW AVAi LABLE ~ specially constructed basket to fit T-14B ultrasonic cleaner. 8 3/8" x 4" x 3" deep. SUPER PRICE only $30.00 each! 069212 ...... •...... •.... $30.00 s. rlilRom1~ =e\tinc. Worldwide Distributors to Horolouists0 '~\ I ii«?" FIGURE 3. Chime mechanism in "correction" phase following the 234 Commerce Place, Greensboro, N.C. 27420, U.S.A. third quarter chime. The chime correction lever catches the warning Phone: (919) 275-0462 pin (at arrow). This stops the gear train. The locking cam and pin are not engaged . • October 1988/Horologi.cal Times 25 of two large brass disks. A row of steel pins is driven into each will occur. The chime correction lever may miss the pin flat surface, making four in all. A row operates one of the allowing the chime train to lock as usual on the cam. There four chime hammers. To adjust, first chime the movement will not be any chime correction in this case, or the chime through the hour and then the first quarter. Loosen the set correctio'n lever may catch the pin too soon locking the train screw on the pin barrel arbor and turn the pin barrel by itself. early. On start-up, the outer rim of the locking cam will not It moves clockwise when viewed from the back. Watch the be able to get under the locking pin quickly enough. The train arrow marked "Y.." as you turn clockwise. Just as the arrow will lock again without chiming the hour. passes by the hammer levers, stop. This is the end of the first quarter chime; tighten the set screw. Four hammers have just been raised in order to play the four descending notes of the ADJUSTING THE CHIME LEVERS first quarter chime. The drop and locking levers ( 18 and 21) form a unit riveted together. By opening or closing the angle, you can change the amount of locking action. If the angle is closed too CRITICAL CHIME ADJUSTMENTS much, you lose the chime correction feature. The chime locking pin bottoms out in the locking cam, making it im A FIRST LOOK possible for the drop lever to go all the way into the deep Check the long curved lever above the right side of slot in the locking plate. If the angle of the levers is opened the front movement plate. This is the chime correction lever too much, you lose the locking action of the pin against the (25). It is not a chime locking lever intended to stop the gear slot in the locking cam. train after each chime. It operates only after the third quarter It is probably a mistake to start bending the chime chime. The lever has a brass wire spring (26). wound along correction lever (25) to make the feature work. One problem its arbor. The spring is secured to a screw head in the move is that there is very little operating clearance between the tip ment pillar. The spring applies pressure to move the tip of the of the lever and the chime warning pin as it moves past. lever up, not down. The spring must be in good condition to If the lever is bent lower, the pin catches it at each revolu apply firm pressure. tion-even during the chiming. If the lever is too high, it The chime train stops on the chime locking cam (19). cannot catch the warning pin when it is supposed to do so. To operate the chime train, the chime lifting piece (14) A small adjustment can be made by bending the brass pin moves the chime unlocking lever (17) upward. In turn, it driven into the tip of the chime correction lever. Bending the pushes up the chime locking lever (21) and chime lock pin pin up means the lever receives less lift from the chime correc (20). After the unlocking occurs, the chime warning pin tion guide arm (22). Bending down means more lift is received. (24) moves counterclockwise to the chime warning lever (16). I suspect that a lot of time is wasted in adjusting the Figure 2 shows the warning pin at a 1 o'clock position for chime correction lever. It often happens that the drop/locking clarity in the drawing. The actual rest position of the warning lever adjustment described above is really the problem. It is a pin should be at about an 8 o'clock orientation. The warning good idea to do that adjustment first so the chime correction lever is at about 6 o'clock, which makes the warning run feature can work. relatively short. It is necessary to set the warning this way The movement I have been studying for this article because of the chime correction mechanism. has seen a great deal of adjustment work in the past. The chime correction lever has been broken from repeated bend CHIME CORRECTION MECHANISM ing, then soldered together. The drop and locking levers Most of the adjustment problems are concerned with have also been moved a great deal with more solder applied. the chime correction device. The mechanism itself operates When the chime correction feature operates, it is as fol lows. The locking plate ( 15) has a deep slot for the important for the warning pin to remain locked in the angled third quarter locking point. Figure 3 shows the chime drop notch of the lever. Verify that each of the first three quarters lever (18) in this slot. The action pulls the chime locking lever will not have enough lift to unlock the device. It will be close (21) lower than for the other quarters. The chime correction each time, which is one of my complaints with the movement. guide arm (22) is pivoted on the lever, and it pulls down on Because of the angle of the notch in the chime correction the chime correction lever (25). The lever moves down just lever, the hour lift actually backs up the chime train to accom enough to catch the chime warning pin (24) as it comes plish the unlocking. around. Figure 3 shows the chime correction mechanism STRIKE TRAIN locked in position. The angled notch in the chime correction Fortunately, the strike train is not unusual or prob lever forces it even lower as the warning pin enters the slot. lem-ridden. Figure 1 shows the positions of the ga~hering Unless the lever is spring-loaded up (not down) none of this pallet, strike locking lever and pin, and strike warning pin. chime correction will occur. The strike unlocking lever (10) is operated during the hour The cannon pinion (12) has four lifting pins (11). chime by a pin on the locking plate. The pin is shown in Only the hour pin has enough lifting action to unlock the Figure 1 as it moves counterclockwise toward the lever. chime train for the hour. Figure 2 shows the back (riveted) One point worth noting concerns the strike warning end of each pin. The acting part of the hour pin is a built-up lever (9). It is spring-loaded clockwise, which keeps the left steel pin of half round shape, larger than the other three side up. During the hour chime the chime locking lever pushes pins. the strike warning lever downward against spring pressure to Note in Figure 3 that the chime train is not stopped be in position when the strike train is unlocked for the warn on the chime locking cam. The locking pin is in the slot but ing. If the spring is set up backwards, the strike warning pin not touching the edge. The warning pin position noted above will not be able to get past the warning lever at any time. is critical. If the pin is out of position, one of two problems UDI3 26 Horological Times/October 1988 Your AWI membership card signifies that you are entitled to the many services offered by your association. However, we must have the correct information from your card to be able to serve you most efficiently. This illustration points out the important, coded information on the right side of your Wholesale - Watchmaker & Jeweler's Supplies membership card. Always use your AWi mem 456 West Columbus Drive bership number when corresponding or order Tampa, Florida 33602 ing from AWi. , PANASONIC ' /. . FREE BATTERIES IFREE with 100 with 100 batteries SPECIAL FOR OCTOBER: This is to Certify that Repeat of September's Specials JOSH A. DOE 000 SMITH ST. No. 364 - 25 ¢ No. 392 - 22¢ IOnERE, OR 12345 No. 397 - 42¢ No. 389 - 44¢ No. 362 - 39 ¢ No. 395 - 40¢ t,.L ... :..:.rt .. , ~ .6·'~,l·...... ~ "'"*"' No. 321 - 47¢ No. 343 - 42¢ No. 371 - 44¢ No. 377 - 46¢ Membership Number No. 379 - 60¢ No. 396 - 44 ¢ No. CR-1616-73¢ No. CR-2016-73¢ Certification Type of Number Certification • Complete battery price list on request. • FREE GIFT with an order of 100 or more.* Complete Battery Starter Kit ••• • 260 Assorted Popular Watch Batteries Swiss Made MICROTEST • 50 Drawer Battery Organizer • Panasonic Watch Battery Tester • Waterproof Watch Case Opener • Set of 5 Screwdrivers • Watch Case Knife ..Y. • Plastic Tweezer $1~00 NEW LOW PRICE!! $175.00 (without tool kit $155.00) FRIENDLY, SAME-DAY SERVICE Determines quartz analog watch A COMPLETE SUPPLY HOUSE FOR THE problems-without opening the case! JEWELRY, WATCH REPAIRING, & CLOCK This little marvel will quickly tell you if the REPAIRING INDUSTRIES problem is within the electronic circuit or with the stepping motor. Miniaturized test FREE CATALOGS ON REQUEST instrument containing the latest state-of the-art electronic components will check Orders received before 1 :00 p.m. Eastern time all types of quartz analog movements and are shipped the same day. watches. Uses one nine volt battery. Just place the watch on the tester, turn it on and you get your answer ... how terrific! 800-282-0685 All States Toll-Free BAT340 1"x2¥.l"x3~" •• •()""'1 $647° Tampa - (813) 229-2715 1-800-4-KASSOY OY FOR TOLL FREE ORDERS KASS Inquiries or Information- (813) 229-2806 Telefax - (813) 221-8016 Tools and supplies for the jewelry trades. 28 West 47th St., N.Y., N.Y. 10036 In N.Y. state: 212-719-2290 October 1988/Horological Times 27 Two Cleaning Techniques Recently "Horological Times" received two articles dealing with clock cleaning techniques. One is a basic routine for cleaning the average clock which comes into the shop; the other deals specifically with the floating balance type clock. Both seem to be well conceived methods which ''HT" readers will want to con sider and perhaps adapt to their own cleaning routines. There is no "one" method that is best for everyone or every job. With this in mind, we recommend that you consider these two methods, then decide how you can best use the information. Editor A Common Sense Approach to Cleaning in the Modern Clock Shop by Roy H. Niegel, CMC, CMW the parts before you remove them. You may have to run them again for a longer time. ecently a writer to Horological Times said, "There 2. Remove parts from the tank and clean under run are no exceptions," referring to his recorrunended ning water-hot or very warm. I do it in the laundry sink. 112 method of cleaning clocks, which he called the only 3. Dip the parts in a bath of alcohol to rinse and re "professional way." While his recommended method did appear move most of the water. Let them drip dry a few minutes. to be one way of doing the job, each shop has different needs 4. Ultrasonically clean in clean, clear rinse fluid. and may need to follow appropriate modifications. Here are 5. OPTIONAL STEP: Dip in a bath of Plastic Lube my ideas which I do follow in general. I too must be ready and of a "One Step" type. This is not a lube but helps to keep the willing to vary the procedures that I use from time to time. plates and gears clean and seems to prevent some finger First of all, all movements do not have to be com prints from sticking. I always lube in the normal manner. If pletely disassembled. For example, how about a clock or you use this step, make sure that you dry the parts well since mechanism that has been stored or on a shelf for a long time this "sets" the plastic lube. with little running time on it? If you carefully clean that one 6. Put the parts in a dryer and air-dry with warm air and only, remove the escapement section and mainsprings until fully dried. A hair dryer works, but a closed box with a (open type mainsprings can be relaxed and will clean quite controlled air exhaust is much better. well). I do not believe in leaving mainsprings in a closed barrel. 7. After the unit and parts are fully dried and cooled Next in importance is to use good fresh and potent off, complete the job in the normal manner. Do not lube a fluids. They can be old but not weakened or dirty. I never hot part. Oils are not designed for use on hot surfaces or parts. leave mine stored in the ultrasonic tank. The fluids are drained CAUTION-BEWARE: The next step is used between after use and stored in tightly closed containers and allowed to Step 3 and 4 above, but must be used with EXTREME CARE settle. The bottom (residue) is discarded and not allowed to (or else just skip it). Should you have a problem with lacquer enter the tank. I use L&R clock concentrate (water based) or residue such as white spotting or flaking, etc., it can be removed equivalent, and always preheat it. My heater is a separate im by dipping in a bath of clear lacquer thinner. Do not leave it mersion type unit. Also, I recorrunend plenty of ventilation there long. Just a quick dip and swish. Let it drip-dry and pro when using these fluids. We use an exhaust fan in the cleaning ceed to Step 4. area. Again, CAUTION: This is a highly flarrunable and possibly explosive procedure. It is to be used by qualified and HERE ARE THE STEPS careful personnel only. Use it only when absolutely needed. 1. Ultrasonic cleaning using preheated (warm-not Do not use it near any open flames. Do not tum on any elec too hot) cleaning fluids; I use the L&R concentrate. Inspect trical switches or turn them off either. 28 Horological Times/October 1988 ... and Yet More on Cleaning the Floating Balance WATCHMA.KERS - JEWELERS How long would it take you to diagnose the following by Ralph Geiger, CMW, CMC, CEWS, CMBHI watches using your present test equipment? . ,c, .,i..,,i;f. ~ l)T fl!ll::llH ...... toil)~,. • • " ~ n~~cc-r he superficial problem involved in cleaning a floating •"oe:•.111u 19G•c: ir,~ •ll l (>fllll " balance unit is obvious-to get any solution which lr entered the balance tube out of the tube. This prob- lem has been addressed by every writer concerned with the • • '"o"'r• ... ""' •1•• • • l;:(llil f 'i'C;1\ subject. The more subtle aspects of cleaning (of which the writers have possibly been aware) have rarely been stated. Immersion cleaning of anything depends on a three With lnnovative's• • Quartz •Watch Tester,• model WT-100 step process of wash, rinse, and dry. Consider the process • you could diagnose them all - in seconds - of washing one's hands. You coat and scrub your hands with without removing any watch components. a solution (soap) which softens and surrounds, dissolves, and absorbs the contaminants on your hands. After the first solution has completed its work, a second solution (water) I is used to dilute the first until the properties of the first solu tion are neutralized, so that when you dry your hands no nonvolatile residue will be left on your skin. This is the exact same goal sought when cleaning horological items, and is basically the same process but possibly with different solu tions. The cleaning process must be one of wash, rinse, dry. I Thus, the problem of cleaning a floating balance unit is not Quartz Watch Tester Model WT-100 simply one of clearing the solution out of the tube, but of Typical product features: • Tests watches with or without batteries clearing the tube after immersion in each solution. • Tests batteries in or out of watches A floating balance with properly sized jewel holes • Easy to use - no adjustments to make • Tests components without removal has a total side-shake of .02mm to .03mm. This is an ex • One year warranty tremely small opening for a fluid to penetrate. Indeed, if it • Made in the USA • Inexpensive - only $49.95 were not for capillarity, fluids would possibly not enter the (plus $2.00 postage & handling) opening. Ironically, it is also capillarity which makes the tube so difficult to clear. INNOVATIVE ELECTRONICS 64-46 84th Street, Flushing, NY 11379 Imagine we have just removed a floating balance unit from immersion in a horological cleaning solution and trans ferred it directly into a horological rinsing solution (total immersion). We will assume that during immersion in the cleaning solution the tube filled with solution. We will also assume that due to capillarity the solution remained in the tube upon immersion into the rinse. Remembering the require BURSTING WITH ments to achieve proper results during the cleaning process, what now needs to happen and what is the likelihood of it POWER! happening? The rinse must enter the tube and displace the cleaning solution. With the pressures inside and outside the tube being equal, what will cause the rinse to enter the tube? ~\ .. A~1t1 Nothing. There is no force to cause the rinse to enter the tube. 1 Even if ultrasonics are used, I have serious doubts that any ~U diU;1 1 i1V thing more than a minor amount of rinse will enter the tube. The surface tension of most liquids will not allow them to WATCH/ flow freely through such a restricted opening, and with no CALCULATOR force to cause a flow of solutions through the tube, proper BAmRIES cleaning cannot occur. Given the above situation and sub sequent drying, the result can only be the depositing of a nonvolatile residue from the cleaning solution on the inside of yvvv~t1 the tube and on the wire and jewels, regardless of the choice of solutions or the method of drying. CALL TOLL FREE TODAY! Apparently some people are of the opinion that an "instant" drying rinsing solution will offer improved cleaning characteristics. This is not true. Any nonvolatile components dissolved in the rinse will simply remain as a JEWELMONT®~ ~ residue after the rinse has evaporated. As an example, set out CORPORATION W_, an open jar of alcohol, into which has been dissolved a half $15.00 Minimum WA TS Line Order teaspoon of white petroleum jelly (Vaseline). After the alcohol (AREA CODE 612) 546-3800 has evaporated away, a greasy film will be found in the bottom MINNESOTA WATS 800-742-0508 of the jar. Any volatile solvent will react the same way. As NATIONWIDE WATS 800-328-0614 with so many things, it is not what you use that makes the TELEX #753553 difference, but how you use it and how well you understand 800 BOONE AVENUE NORTH its properties. Please turn to page 31 MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA 55427 October 1988/Horological Times 29 GEMSTONES Edgar Cleves, Jr. CALCITE GROUP his group is composed of calcite, magnesite, rhodo Gem material can be found in California (brown), chrosite, siderite, and smithsonite, all of which con Missouri (colorless) and Montana, and also in England, Iceland lrtain a large percentage of calcite. It is a widely dis- (colorless), and Russia (yellow). The Smithsonian Institution tributed rhombohedral mineral which contains calcium car has two large golden-brown specimens from Baja 75.8 and bonate. It is noted for its great variety of crystals. More than 45.8 carats. The Devonian Group in Calgary, Alberta, Canada 2500 drawings of calcite crystals are shown in the Atlas der has a 7.5 ct. cobaltocalcite from Spain. There are many other Kristallfonnen. 328 different forms have been established with sources for the more common material. the possibility of an additional 296. Through the study of In 1669, a Danish physician, Erasmus Bartholinus calcite, R.J. Hauy was able to develop the theory of crystal noticed that a large transparent mineral, recently brought from structure. Iceland, produced a double image of objects when viewed Calcite occurs in great quantities and in a variety of through the stone. This optical phenomenon later became modes. In sedimentary rock it is limestone andin metamorphic known as double refraction. In some minerals, it can be ob rock it is marble. It is populary known as onyx or onyx marble served with the unaided eye, while others require a strong and is used as countertops, table tops, bookends, and many microscope. Because of the great double refraction of calcite, other ornamentations. Many times it is colored by impurities it is used extensively in optical instruments. Gemologists use running through the mineral. In its pure state, it is completely dicroscopes which separate the pleochroic colors of gemstones, transparent and colorless. It is of little value as a gem because and mineralogists use special calcite-polarizing prisms called it is soft and can be easily cleaved. Yellow and brown crystals nicols in microscopes to determine the optical properties of are common. In onyx, fissures allow impurities to infiltrate minerals. These prisms reflect one component of light, leav and color the material with beautiful designs. ing only a single completely polarized ray. Calcite is derived from the Greek calx, meaning Magnesite gems that are transparent are rare and lime. It forms in the hexagonal system. The chemical compo beautiful. They form in the hexagonal system. The hardness is sition is CaC03. The mineral is the toughest when the grain 3.5 to 4.5. The specific gravity is 3.0 to 3 .12. The chemical sizes are the smallest. As the grain becomes coarser, the clea formula is MgC03. The luster is vitreous to dull. The indices of vage becomes easier. The specific gravity is 2.71 in its pure refraction are c = 1.509-1.515, and w = 1.700-1.717. The state, but can vary from 2.67 to 2.87, depending on the birefringence is .022. It is uniaxial negative. It is found in yel quantity of impurities. The indices of refraction are c = 1.486 lowish to brown, colorless, white, and grey. Under short and w = 1.658. The birefringence is .172. The addition ofother wavelength ultraviolet light, it will display blue, green, or elements will increase the indices of refraction and the bire white. In warm acids, it will effervesce. Brazil is the only fringence. The optic character is uniaxial negative. The luster country where large facetable transparent colorless crystals is usually glassy, but may be pearly on cleaved surfaces, and are found. Other sources are Algeria, Austria, Bahia, India, sometimes greasy depending on the crystal grains. The hardness Korea, South Africa, and Zaire. The largest specimen coming is 3. The cleavage is perfect rhombohedral in three directions. from Brazil is 134.5 carats. The dispersion is strong. Any spectral lines are the result of Rhodochrosite is one of the calcite group of carbonate impurities in the mineral. It is found in colorless pink green minerals, consisting of manganese carbonate, but it is very blue, purplish red, yellow, white, and grey. Colo~less i's ofte~ seldom found in its pure state. Many times it is found with referred to as Iceland Spar. Under short wavelength ultraviolet iron, calcium, magnesium, or zinc substituting for part of the light, it may display green, blue, pink, red, orange, yellow, or manganese. It is found in moderate temperature sedimentary white. Under long wavelength ultraviolet light, it may display deposits where copper, zinc, silver, and lead are found, and pink, yellow, orange, tan, blue, or grey. also in high temperature metamorphic deposits. There are two known forms of water-deposited calcite The basic chemical composition is MnC03. Hardness travertine and onyx. Travertine is formed by hot springs, such is 3.5 to 4.0. In its pure state, the specific gravity is 3. 70. The as may be seen in Yellowstone National Park. Onyx is formed refractive indices are c = 1.597 and w = 1.816. The bire by cold springs and can be found in many caverns in the fringence is .219. It crystallizes in the Rhombohedral division United States, particularly in Virginia, West Virginia, Kentucky, of the Hexagonal System. It is uniaxial negative. The indices and Tennessee. Onyx is more dense than travertine and will rise with the addition of iron, but decrease with the addition take a high polish. Some onyx contains fossil shells and other of magnesium or calcium. The luster is pearly on cleaved sur marine organisms. In Petoskey, Michigan stones are found in faces, and vitreous on other surfaces. which coral was replaced by calcite, form~ng beautiful unusual The color of rhodochrosite is pale opaque pink. The designs. name is derived from the Greek rodochros, meaning rose 30 Horological Times/October 1988 colored. Fine translucent deep pink is found in Argentina. CLOCKS INSIDE & OUT Some crystals with orange overtones have also been found. (Continued from page 29) It displays strong dichroism, pale yellow, and rich pink. It is found in Argentina, Brazil, England, Peru, Russia, Back to the problem at hand-how to clear each and and many countries throughout Europe. In the United States, every solution from the tube of a floating balance unit. Per it is found in Arkansas, California, Colorado, Maine, Montana, forating the tube, as has been suggested, is a help but not a Nevada, Tennessee, and Utah. cure-all. As the editor's note stated (Horological Times, Rhodochrosite should not be confused with rho November 1987, page 26), this technique should be considered donite which belongs to the pyroxene group. Several fine spe a last resort and not adopted as standard practice. Even cimens of rhodochrosite have been found. A 5.95 ct. red from with holes in the balance tube it is possible to have problems South Africa is in the Devonian Group in Calgary, Alberta, caused by poor rinsing. The best method I have found to Canada, and a 59.65 ct. red oval from South Africa is in a assure that the tube has been cleared of solutions is to utilize private collection. centrifugal force; or to put it in practical terms, to use the Siderite is a mineral consisting principally of ferrous high speed spin of a watch cleaning machine. The benefits carbonate, but many times containing amounts of manganese, of a centrifugal spin-off of solutions seem to be ignored by magnesium, and calcium. The chemical formula is FeC03. many horologists. Spin-off durations are usually far too short It crystallizes in the hexagonal system. The luster can be ·to achieve the optimum effect. For a floating balance, a spin vitreous, pearly, silky, or dull. The hardness is 3.5 to 4.5. The duration of two minutes should be considered minimum. indices of refraction are c = 1.633 and w = 1.873. The bire Causing a change in pressure outside the tube, coupled fringence is .240. The specific gravity is 3.83-3.96. It is brittle. with simultaneous agitation, can help to get solutions in and The cleavage is a perfect rhombohedral. The color is usually out of the tube and aid in thorough rinsing. Unfortunately, partially brown because of partial oxidation. It can be pale this can only be done with special equipment or a special yellowish brown, pale yellowish, pale green, greenish grey, cleaning machine. The only machine I know of with this yellowish grey, reddish brown, blackish brown, greyish brown, capability is the Portescap VC-10/101. It will achieve superior but very seldom colorless. results cleaning floating balance units without any chance of It is found in basaltic igneous rocks, in hydrothermal solutions remaining inside the tube and without the need of ore veins, in pegmatites, in sedimentary rocks, and in some perforating the tube. The machine is unfortunately expensive swamps. It is found in Austria, Brazil, Canada, England, and would be difficult to justify if used solely for cleaning France, Greenland, Germany, Italy, and Portugal. Its name is floating balance units. It is, however, the best, easiest, and derived from the Greek sideros meaning iron. Beautiful gems most reliable method I have found to do the task. have been cut from Portuguese rough. Smithsonite was named after James Smithson, the LUBRICATION benefactor whose bequest founded the Smithsonian Institu I have yet to hear any compelling reasons to support tion in Washington, D.C. Good quality gems are rare. In its the opinions of the many people who maintain floating pure state it is zinc carbonate, but it is more commonly found balances should never be oiled. My experience has been they with small quantities of calcium, copper, iron, or manganese. will rotate with better motion and less noise when judiciously The chemical formula is ZnC03. It crystallizes in the Hexa oiled with the very finest quality watch oil. gonal System. The hardness is 4 to 4~, but it has a good de In summary, I would like to restate two important gree of toughness because of close-grained crystals. The spe points: cific gravity is 4.3 to 4.45. The indices of refraction are c = 1. Proper cleaning (of anything) can only be accom 1.621 and w = 1.848. The birefringence is .227. It is uni plished by assuring a thorough rinse, using a copious quantity axial negative. Color banding is noted throughout most speci of the rinsing solution. mens. Shades of blue and green are caused by copper. Pink 2. What you use to complete a given task is of far is caused by cobalt. Yellow is caused by cadmium. The primary less importance in comparison to how it is used. sources in the United States are Arkansas, California, New The importance of these concepts cannot be under Mexico, and Washington. Other sources are Greece, Sardinia, estimated. They are rudimentary to any aspiration of crafts and Spain. manship. ULII3 e WATCHMAKERS-JEWELERS-CLOCKMAKERS e GENUINE: Bulova - Longines - Omega - Seiko - Pulsar - Rolex WATCH MATERIALS & CRYSTALS ... We Offer ALSO CARRYING THE FULL LINE OF: G.S. Crystals, L&R Cleaning Solutions, Success Cleaning and Timing Machines, VIGOR BESTFIT and HAMMEL RIGLANDER PRODUCTS By Degrees! I am small enough to try very hard to please you. NEW YORK JEWELERS SUPPLY COMPANY Watch Material, Jewelers Supplies & Accessories 87 Nassau Street e Room 208 New York, NY 10038 (212) BA7-6677 700 State • Quincy, IL 62301 • 1-800·255·2255 Ext.1790 October 1988/Horological Times 31 TecWATCHES © , ... Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC, CMBHI (All rights reserved by the author) Antique Watch Restoration ~ 1988 Part XXXIV ccasionally when restoring antique watches, one will Another rule is: When we multiply teeth times teeth ~ find a watch which has both the minute wheel and and divide by leaves times leaves, this should equal 12. Ex () minute pinion missing, or the cannon pinion and hour ample: wheel may be missing. To calculate for two missing members T X T = 12 of a dial train is more difficult than calculating for only one L X L missing member because, when two members are missing, Substituting figures: the element of guess work or trial and error creeps into the picture and it takes more calculation to be certain that the 30 32 x 12 numbers selected will work with the old existing gears. 10 x 8 DIAL TRAIN RATIOS Previously, it has been shown how to determine the Some dial trains have a 3: 1 - 4: 1 ratio, that is, the number of teeth or leaves in one missing member of the dial ratio between the cannon pinion and minute wheel is 3: 1 train. Now, let us suppose that we have a minute wheel and and the ratio between the minute pinion and the hour wheel minute pinion missing from a watch that is being restored. is 4: 1. For example: The cannon pinion has 12 leaves and The following formula is used to determine how many teeth the minute wheel has 3 times as many teeth or 36 teeth, and are needed for the minute wheel and how many leaves are the minute pinion has 8 leaves and the hour wheel has 4 times needed for the minute pinion. as many teeth or 32 teeth. Therefore, if one has a missing minute pinion, the formula would be: Ratio for determining minute wheel and pinion 36 32 x 12:1 ratio Cannon pinion leaves X 12 ( 12-hour dial) 12 x x Hour wheel teeth It can easily be seen in the formula that the missing pinion Substituting figures: should have 8 leaves. Sometimes these ratios are used in Ratio = 12 X 12 = 144 reverseor4:1-3:1. 40 40 Any sets of dial train ratios which are not of the 3: 1, 4:1, or 4:1, 3:1 types are classified as mixed or irregular When these two figures are reduced to their lowest terms, type ratios. Some of these ratios are as follows: ( 1.875: 1, we would have 18 6.4:1), (2:1, 6:1), (2.29:1, 5.25:1), (2.4:1, 5:1). (2.5:1, 5 . 4.8:1). (3.25:1, 3.6923:1), (3.5:1, 3.4285714:1), (3.75:1, Now by multiplying these two figures by the same numbers, 3.2:1). we will obtain the numbers of teeth and leaves for the new Any combination of ratios can be used in a dial train minute wheel and pinion. Example: as long as they conform to the dial train rules. The rules are: When the pinion leaves are multiplied times each other and 18 x 2 36 Teeth or 18 x 3 54 Teeth then times 12 (for a 12-hour dial) and divided by the teeth 5 x 2 10 Leaves 5 x 3 15 Leaves times the teeth, one would obtain unity or one. Example: It seems more logical that the combination needed Leaves X Leaves X 12 = 1 would be the one which gives 36 teeth for the minute wheel Teeth X Teeth and 10 leaves for the minute pinion. To check these figures Substituting figures: for suitability, we can place them in the formula for checking. 10 8 12 = 960 = 1 36 x 40 . x x X = 12 (12:1 ratio). 30 x 32 960 10 12 32 Horological Times/October 1988 PITCH DIAMETER WHEEL + PITCH DIAMETER PINION = 2 X CENTER DISTANCE Figure 1 PITCH DIAMETER ,,, / .... .,, ,,, L ...... _,, __I --==-..,..-"" -- -- I ----1--=------I I I I I CENTER Ii..-t-- - -DISTANCE ~ I This proves that this combination can be used for the missing but must be calculated. minute wheel and pinion. The 54 teeth and the 15 leaves PITCH DIAMETER: The pitch diameter is less than could also be used if we were designing a new dial train, but the outside diameter. The pitch diameter circle for a gear since the gears selected to replace the missing ones must should fall on the gear where the curved tips of the teeth start. work correctly with the remaining gears, then only one of the The base of the teeth are below the pitch circle, whereas the two combinations could be used. To be sure of the correct tips of the teeth are above the pitch circle. When two gears combination, one would need to do some calculations in are correctly pitched together, their pitch circles should just be volving the remaining gears and the new numbers selected touching on the center line. using the module method. MODULE: The ratio between the pitch diameter of a gear and its number of teeth. A unit of measurement in gearing which equals the pitch diameter of a gear divided by MODULE METHOD OF CALCULATING the number of its teeth or FOR MISSING DIAL TRAIN GEARS Before actually using the module method, it would be Module = Pitch Diameter in order to discuss the new terms that will be needed to use Number of Teeth or Leaves the module method to calculate for missing gears. Figure 1 is a drawing which shows how the members of the dial train The module also equals 2 times the center distance divided work together. The proper terminology is also shown in the by the sum of the teeth of the two gears working in that drawing. The following is an explanation of the terminology. center distance or CENTER DISTANCE: The distance between the Module = 2 X Center Distance center of one pivot hole to the center of the pivot hole of N + n a mating gear. The center distance is equal to the sum of the pitch radii of two gears that work together. The center dis ADDENDUM: The addendum is the curved pointed tance times 2 equals the sum of the pitch diameters of two part of wheel or pinion teeth which stands outside of the gears that work together. pitch circle. OUTSIDE DIAMETER: The full diameter of a gear - ADDENDUM FIGURE: A figure used to increase measured across the center of the gear from the tip of one the wheel or pinion's diameter from pitch diameter to full tooth to the tip of a tooth exactly opposite the first tooth. diameter. The addendum figure is also used in the calcula Gears with odd numbers of teeth cannot be measured directly tion when reducing the diameter of a wheel or pinion from October 1988/Horological Times 33 full diameter to pitch diameter. For wheels in the main train, Now, find the outside diameter for the missing minute wheel: the addendum figure is usually 2.25 to 2.50. Wheel teeth that are very long and pointed have addendum of 3.00 to 3.50. Outside Diameter Minute Wheel = For pinions in the main train, a 1.25 addendum is used for Pitch Diameter Minute Wheel + 2 X Module pinions which have a semi-circular rounding at the tips to 1.50 for pinions which have somewhat pointed leaves. In dial trains Using figures, we would have: the addendum figure is 2- for both wheel teeth and pinion leaves. Outside Diameter Minute Wheel = 7.18 + 2 X .20 = 7.58 DEDENDUM: The part of wheel and pinion teeth which is inside the pitch circle. FINDING THE MISSING MINUTE PINION As in the previous example, let us suppose that we Center Distance = 4.80 have a minute wheel and minute pinion missing from a dial Hour Wheel = 40 Teeth train. Then we would need the following information in Hour Wheel Outside Diameter = 8.10 order to use the module method: First, we would find the pitch diameter of the hour wheel: FIND MISSING MINUTE WHEEL 4 8 0 Center distance = 4.80 Pitch Diameter Hour Wheel = o ; + ·~ = 7.714 4 Cannon pinion = 12 leaves Cannon pinion (outside diameter) = 2.82 Hour wheel = 40 teeth Next, we calculate the module: Hour wheel (outside diameter) = 8.10 7.714 Module = ~ = .192 mm First we would determine the pitch diameter of the cannon pinion: Then, we find the pitch diameter of the missing minute pinion: Pitch Diameter Cannon Pinion = Pitch Diameter Minute Pinion = Leaves in Cannon Pinion X Outside Diameter Cannon Pinion 4.80 x 2 - 7.714 = 1.886 Leaves in Cannon Pinion + Addendum Figure 2 Next, we find how many leaves the missing minute pinion Substituting figures: should have: 1.886 Pitch Diameter Cannon Pinion Leaves = ---:192 = 9.82 or ( 1 O) leaves 12 X 2 ·82 = 2417 or 242 12 + 2 . . Note: Due to the difficulty of measuring center distances accurately, the number of teeth or leaves will not always come Next, we calculate the module: out evenly. Accept the closest full figure for the correct one M d _ Pitch Diameter Cannon Pinion as has been done in this case. 0 1 u e - Number of Leaves in Cannon Pinion Now, find the outside diameter of the minute pinion: Substituting figures: 2 2 Outside Diameter 1.886 + 2 X .192 2.27 Module = .4 = 20mm = = 12 . FIND MISSING CANNON PINION Now, we find the pitch diameter of the missing minute wheel: When: Center distance = 4.80 Minute wheel = 36 teeth Pitch Diameter Minute Wheel = Minute pinion 7 .60 outside diameter Center Distance X 2 - Pitch Diameter Cannon Pinion Minute pinion 10 leaves Minute pinion 2.27 outside diameter Using figures, we would have: First, find the pitch diameter of the minute wheel : Pitch Diameter Minute Wheel Pitch Diameter Minute Wheel 36 x 7.60 = 7.20 4.80 x 2 - 2.42 = 7. 18 36 + 2 Next, we find how many teeth the missing minute wheel Now, calculate the module: should have: 7 20 Module = · = .20 Teeth for Minute Wheel Pitch Diameter Minute Wheel 36 Module Next, find the pitch diameter of the missing cannon pinion: Substituting figures: 7 8 Pitch Diameter Cannon Pinion = Center Distance X 2 -7.20 Teeth for Minute Wheel = · 1 = 35.9 or (36 teeth) .20 or 4.80 X 2 - 7.20 = 2.40 34 Horologi.cal Times/October 1988 FORUM The FORUM is a column devoted to the discussion and debate of horological piffle, practices, and problems. Comments can be controversial, but should always re main within the bounds of good taste. Responses should be sent to: AWi FORUM, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. Albert Dodson Ralph Geiger CMC CMW, CMC, CEWS, CMBHI, A couple of months ago I but I might have done better to answer questions that might be addressed to was asked to lecture at a convention in the question with a question: Why do we them: What would have motivated you to Chicago. After the lecture I was ap become horologists? Is it because of continue working as a horologist? What proached by a young clockmaker (not our fascination for the mechanisms caused you to choose your current that I am an old, sagacious one). He was or is it for the financial rewards? Or occupation? How do you, and are you starting a new business and was exploring perhaps some other reason. able to, maintain interest and motivation the different angles and markets that one This raises a number of addi in your new occupation? who repairs clocks can tap into. I had tional questions. What should motivate a I will leave it to you to speculate been speaking about restorations and this horologist? After the fascination wears as to why my answer was "No." young man asked me, "Should I start off, what is the horologist's motivation? doing clock restorations?" A number of How does one stay motivated or find GOT AN OPINION? possible responses ran through my mind new motivation? What compromises are and after a brief hesitation I responded implied by choosing one motivation over GOT THE FACTS? with a simple "No." another? WRITE US WITH YOUR THOUGHTS! A curious answer, you might Many people leave the bench for think. I offered an explanation afterward, other occupations. There are similar Now, find the number of leaves for the missing cannon pinion: 9 Module = 1;~ = .189 2.40 12 Leaves = -:20 = Now, find the pitch diameter of the missing hour wheel: Next, find the outside diameter of the cannon pinion: Pitch Diameter Hour Wheel = Center Distance X 2 - 1.89 or 4.80 X 2 - 1.89 = 7.71 Outside Diameter = Pitch Diameter + 2 X Module Next, find the number of teeth for the missing hour wheel: Outside Diameter = 2.40 + 2 X .20 2.80 Hour Wheel Teeth = .~·~~ = 40.79 or 40 FIND THE MISSING HOUR WHEEL Center Distance = 4.80 Minute Pinion 10 leaves Now, find the outside diameter for the hour wheel: Minute Pinion = 2.27 outside diameter Outside Diameter Hour Wheel = 7.71 + 2 X .189 8.088 First, find the pitch diameter of the minute pinion: Pitch Diameter Minute Pinion 10 x 2.27 = 1.89 "Antique Watch Restoration" will continue next month. 10 + 2 Next, find the module: October 1988/Horological Times 35 11t11 P11c1~lL1 IA111lL Marshall F. Richmond, CMW HANDCRAFTING BOXES & BEZELS t's probably true that manufactured boxes and bez A rolling mill is almost a necessity to obtain the cor els can be bought for less than it costs to handcraft rect thickness of the metal for a bezel which will be from .3 II them, but many times it is necessary to handcraft to .5 mm, depending on the size of the stone. A small stone these findings. They aren't always available for the size or can use a thinner metal. For a 12 x 10 rectangular stone the shape stone that you have to use them with or time and cost length would be 44 mm, but due to the thickness in the metal of ordering one piece. To order one piece requires either and the four bends, about 2 or 3 mm should be added to the writing for it or phoning long distance (usually). This is length. The width should be 3 or 4 mm. either time-consuming and requires postage or a phone toll To make the bends, starting at one end measure 6 mm charge. Also, many suppliers have a minimum order. So, if and make a 90-degree bend. Measure 10 mm and make another the article is under that, the minimum is charged, or there is similar bend. From there, measure 12 mm and make the third an extra service charge. This cost can easily equal the cost of bend. Measure 10 mm and make the fourth bend-which handcrafting the item. should form a rectangle (see Figure 1 A). The inside measure Handcrafting the box or bezel will also eliminate ment should be 12 x 10 mm. After adding the 2 or 3 mm to the waiting time when having the order shipped. When a back allow for the thickness of the metal and the bends, when the order is involved, this can be as much as six weeks or more. last bend is made and the two ends meet the last 6 mm may be If we can afford to have thousands of dollars tied up in gold a Iittle longer. Th is can be lapped to make that side of the bezel findings inventory, it is probably less expensive to buy the an inside measurement of 12 mm. When this is done, mark findings than to stock them. However, having a small rolling and saw off the excess. Butt the ends together; with the stone mill and a few tools plus basic stock of karat gold, it's my lying facedown on the bench, drop the bezel over the stone belief that handcrafting many findings has many advantages and it should fit loosely enough that it can be lifted off the over using manufactured findings. Handcrafting jewelry re stone without picking the stone up. With the joint butted to quires experience, common sense, and a lot of ingenuity, and gether, heat slightly and flux. Cut a small piece of solder the it surely enhances one's reputation and earning power. same color and karat as the gold bezel and set the bezel up in the heavy duty tweezers on the asbestos (or non-asbestos) pad. Handcrafting a Bezel for a Rectangular Stone Then with a flux brush, apply the solder on and across the First, I will give a step-by-step instruction on how to joint. Heat until the solder flows and makes a good joint. handcraft a bezel for a rectangular stone. Assuming this is a Check again to make sure that it fits the stone. File the inside replacement bezel on a ring, the stone must be removed and of the solder joint smooth if necessary, but do not remove any the old bezel filed or sawed off, making the surface flat. Next metal more than necessary until after the bezel is installed. measure the length and width of the stone. Let's assume it is a As the ring surface is already prepared and flat, make 12 x 10 millimeter stone. If this is a flat stone, depth is no sure that when the bezel is placed on the ring it sets flat. Then consideration. If it is a faceted stone and the old bezel was not it can be held in place with binding wire or locking tweezers. If filed below the seat, the only consideration is making the new using locking tweezers, use as little pressure as possible so that bezel wide enough so when it is installed it will come over the when it is heated the pressure of the tweezers does not distort edge of the stone. the shape of the bezel. At this point it is best to flux one small 36 Horological Times/October 1988 I smm I 10mm I 12mm l 10mm 4 3 10° . n B A solder joint Figure 1 D spot, and then place a small piece of fluxed solder on this height can be filed off before setting the stone. When this is spot where the bezel is to join onto the ring. done with the stone in place, take a triangular file and file into In applying heat, try to keep in mind that since the the corners down to the girdle. Usually a hand burnishing tool bezel is thin metal and the ring is much heavier metal, it will will bring the edge of the bezel over the stone. In burnishing, take much more heat to bring the ring to melt and flow tem do a little on each side at a time until the stone is secured and perature than the bezel. Therefore, apply the heat more to will not slip; then burnish tightly all around the stone. This the ring than the bezel so they will come to the melt and flow can also be done with a square or rectangular flat smooth temperature at the same time. When the solder has flowed on bottom punch with the ring on the ring mandrel. Care must this one spot, cool the ring, making sure that the bezel is in be taken not to damage the stone or edge of the bezel while proper alignment and setting tight against the base of the ring. tapping the punch with a brass hammer. Now heat the top of the ring and bezel enough to make the Finishing can be done by starting with small, felt flux turn white when applied; flux all around and inside the knife-edge polishing wheels using tripoli. This should get in bezel. Cut 8 to 12 small pieces of solder and place them around the corner where the bezel is soldered to the base of the ring. the bezel starting at the place already soldered with a flux Larger regular felt wheels with tripoli can then be used to re brush (which will flux the solder as it is placed). move file and burnish or punch marks. A cotton buff wheel Next, start applying heat over the top of the ring and can then be used to polish the entire ring, final finishing it bezel. Try to make the solder flow opposite where the solder with rouge using a cotton buff. The ring can then be washed has been flowed to hold the bezel in place. As the solder will with a solution of soap or detergent and ammonia or a com follow heat by moving the flame, it can be pulled completely mercial solution in an ultrasonic tank or with a washout brush. around the bezel. This should leave a nice little radius all Then it is rinsed in hot water or steamed if a steamer is avail around the outside of bezel, making for a neat finished job able. A caution should be considered before boiling or steam after the stone is set. If there are places that the solder did not cleaning some stones which will not take heat such as pearls, flow, these places can again be fluxed, more solder added, and opals, or when any jewelry with cements are used. heated until it flows in. Again, a caution: Since the bezel is made of lighter or thinner metal, too much heat applied in one Handcrafting Box Settings place can cause it to melt. With practice and experience one Box settings are usually used for square, rectangular, can become proficient at making and installing these bezels. or round stones that are faceted. Some have flat smooth tops, Now the stone must be set. Place it in the bezel and some faceted tops; but the bottom of the stone is faceted, see if any metal must be removed from the inside of the bezel usually to a cone on round stones and tapered to an edge on so that the stone will set level and straight. Observe how much rectangular or oval stones. These box settings can be pur metal protrudes up over the girdle of the stone. Any excess chased from findings suppliers in sizes for standard cut stones October 1988/Horologi.cal Times 37 but must be specially handcrafted for any stones that are not The bending can be done with smooth jaw parallel standard sizes. I will try and explain several ways step-by-step pliers, or even chain nose pliers and a chasers hammer. Hold on handcrafting these box settings. in the pliers along the line where the metal is to be bent. Then In Figure 1B, numbers 1, 2, 3, and 4 show cut-outs start the bend with your fingers, tapping it square with the for sides and ends to make a box setting for a rectangular chasers hammer, keeping the pliers resting on something solid stone. 1 and 3 are sides; 2 and 4 are ends. These can be put like the bench block. After the bends are made, check the together with gold solder to make a rectangular box. How measurements by putting the stone in the formed setting. ever, they can be laid out as in Figure 1 D and cut out of one The girdle of the stone should seat about where the dotted piece of metal, thus requiring only one solder joint. To save a line shows in Figure 1. It isn't critical if there is enough metal lot of figuring, an easy way is to measure the length and width above the stone girdle to bend over the edge of the stone when of the stone, making a mark on a piece of paper for the length set to hold it securely. With the ends aligned, flux should be and one for the width. These marks represent the broken lines applied after heating so it (flux) turns white. A piece of fluxed in Figure 1B and lD, 1, 2, 3, and 4. At an angle of 70 degrees solder should be placed in the corner where the ends meet, (Figure 1 B, 3) draw a line from each end; taking into consider then enough heat applied to melt and flow the solder. By ation the depth of the stone below the girdle and the height moving the heat the solder can be pulled the full length of above it, estimate the width of the sides and end pieces. Af the joint; add more solder if it does not flow the full length. ter the drawing is complete, take a pair of sharp scissors and Again put the stone in place and mark the top edge of the cut out an end piece and a side piece which can be used to stone and remove it. With a triangular file cut a "V" in the draw Figure 1 D. When this is cut out, glue it onto the piece corner to the mark. With square end flat nose pliers bend this of metal from which the new box will be cut. As you can see, edge to be parallel with the opposite side. it will take a fairly large piece of metal to cut the one-piece After all four sides have been bent parallel with their box; however, the 4 pieces can be cut from a strip the width of opposite sides, the stone can be put in place (see Figure the box, and the pieces of cut paper can also be glued to the 1B, numbers 3 and 4). This is so you will be able to see how metal and sawed to size. .much of the top of the bezel should be removed to leave the The metal being rolled several times through the roll correct amount of metal to burnish over the edges of the ing mill to achieve a thickness of .3 to .5 mm (depending on stone. Any excess can be removed with a file-or if too much how large it should be) will get hard and brittle, so it must excess exists it can be removed by sawing it off with the be annealed frequently if very much thickness must be re jewelers saw. With the stone still in the seat, check the bottom duced. This is done by heating the metal with the torch on of the stone for any excess metal to be removed; if any should, the bench heating pad to a cherry red, then quenching in it can also be filed or sawed. water or letting air cool. This will render the metal to a dead To further strengthen this box, a piece of wire can soft condition. be made (either round or square 1 mm dia.) to fit just inside When the metal is prepared and the patterns laid the square opening in the bottom of the box, then heated, out (either by marking or gluing the paper patterns on it) fluxed, and small pieces of fluxed solder placed around it. the pieces or the one piece can be sawed out with a jewelers Apply heat with the torch until the solder starts to flow, saw. I usually use a 6/0 blade. If using the one piece, it should moving the flame until it is soldered in all around. Although be annealed before bending so it will bend easily without any this is not necessary, it will give much added strength and chance of breaking in the bends. stability to the box. To make a ring, a shank can be gold-soldered to each side of the box (Figure 2). Before setting the stone, the ends Figure 2 of the box can be ornamented by piercing (drilling) and then filing in a pierced design of your own, making small circles, box triangles, ovals, or squares or a combination of these. However, do not remove enough metal to weaken the box. As the top of the box has been shaped into a bezel, the stone can be set in the same manner as any bezel-set stone by burnishing it in or using a matting punch. Polishing and finishing is also done the same as was previously explained. gold solder jointsI In the next article we will discuss solder problems and possible solutions that we have had inquiries about. UCII3 .. if you 're not doing it ...... You Should Be .. . usino your AW! casemark! 38 Horologi.cal Times/October 1988 BOOKS: KEY TEST BENCH PRACTICES FOR WATCH/CLOCKMAKERS-Henry B. Fried. Hairspring practices, replacing regulator pins, jeweling and FOR dial repairs. $16.95 CAVALCADE OF TIME-Henry B. Fried. Highlights of the Zale QUARTZ WATCHES Private Collection of Timepieces. $16.95 THE BEST OF J.E. Coleman-CLOCKMAKER-Orville R. Hagans. An aid to solving everyday problems in clock repair. $30.00 ESSENCE OF CLOCK REPAIR-Sean C. ("Pat") Monk. A prac The "KEY TEST FOR QUARTZ WATCHES" ticing clockmaker reveals repairing secrets. $19.95 by Ewell Hartman, CMW is a quick and simple GRUEN WATCHES, A SPECIAL COLLECTION-Robert D. Gruen. method of locating the problem in a quartz Booklet is a publication devoted to the Gruen collection on display analog movement. The only tool required is a at the Orville R. Hagans AWi Museum. $6.95 meter. HOW TO REPAIR HERSCHEDE TUBULAR BELL CLOCKS Steven G. Conover. A book for the serious clockmaker interested Material and instructions for learning this test in high-quality timepieces. $12.95 is supplied by the AWi-ELM Trust as part of QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE WATCHMAKING PROFES their educational work. There is no charge to SION-AWi. Helpful information on repairing watches. $5.95 any group wishing to learn this test. There are QUESTIONS & ANSWERS FOR THE CLOCKMAKING PROFES SION-AWi. Experts answer everyday questions about clockmaking. great benefits to learning this in a group setting. $14.95 However, for individuals who may not be able REPAIRING QUARTZ WATCHES-Henry B. Fried. Includes a to participate in a group, it is available to basic course in electricity and electronic horology. $22 .95. them also. STRIKING CLOCKS-Joseph G. Baier, Ph .D. A hands-on survey for the clockmaker. $7.95 For more information call or write to the AWi THE SHIP'S CHRONOMETER-Marvin E. Whitney. A concise office for an information sheet and application treatise on the fascinating nautical timepiece ... for the collector as form. well as the horologist. $75.00 WATCH & CLOCK INFORMATION, PLEASE-W.H. Samelius. The writing of Samelius edited by O.R. Hagans. $30.00 THE WATCH ESCAPEMENT-Henry B. Fried. How to analyze, ad just, repair the lever and cylinder, and more. $14.95 THE WATCH REPAIRER'S MANUAL-Henry B. Fried. The newly expanded and updated Fourth Edition of this popular textbook on AWi PRESS watch repair. $27.00 ALL BOOKS & VIDEOS BOOKS& SHIPPED POSTPAID r------Please make check or money order payable to AWi PRESS. VIDEOS U.S. FUNDS ONLY, PLEASE. Send the following book(s)/video(s): (LIST BY TITLE) VIDEOS: BASIC JEWELRY REPAIR- Marshall Richmond. 1 hr .. 52 minutes covering ring sizing, shanks- half and full, prong repair and tipping, AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE stone setting, complete ring fabrication, torches, filing, sawing, 3700 Harrison Ave., P.0. Box 11011 and finishing. VHS and Beta. $49.95 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 INTRODUCTION TO THE MULTIMETER & TESTING QUARTZ WATCHES-James Adams. A no-nonsense approach to quartz watch Address ______repair. Using a Citizen multimeter and an ESA 963 calibre quartz watch, Mr. Adams explains how to use and understand readings of the meter as various checks are performed to diagnose problems with CitY------quartz watches. The 1 hr., 30-minute video will teach you to transfer the instructions for use of the Citizen multimeter to any meter you State ______Zip Code ______have. VHS and Beta. $49.95 October 1988/Horologi.cal Times 39 Thomas H. White NOW IS THE TIME l!J;;../e, as delegates at our meeting for the Affiliate Chap The president of each guild has the duty and obligation to ~ ters (not this year but in 1987), made some proposals appoint someone for this assignment and see that the job ~ to the Board of Directors. One of those proposals was is done. submitted as follows: This also reminds me of a project I wanted to do "We would like a better and more informative chap about three years ago. I wanted to build a sun porch on the ter page in the Horological Times so that our members would front of my cabin. I even went as far as purchasing some of be more informed as to what is going on in the chapters or the material to accomplish this task. To start a project and the AWi." not to do anything about it is NOT the way things should be I believe that this is what we had in mind. When we taken care of. In the last two years I have used every excuse inform other guilds of what is occurring in and to our guilds, possible in order not to face up to it. When time ran out we grow, so that the journeymen of our trades will show up and all the excuses seemed to run out too, I finally took the for our meetings! This is the way to keep our guilds moving "bull by the horns" and made the time. The monies had forward! With this proposal, every guild needs a "news re never been available. The time had arrived to start the project, porter." The ball is in our hands! Are we going to run with and suddenly the monies just appeared out of nowhere! it or lay down and let it roll over us? We need a good man in The sun porch was built this summer after the Board of every guild to be a "news reporter" for the Horological Times. Directors meeting. It took some planning, setting my priori I believe you can find someone to be responsible to perform ties, looking myself in the face, cooperation from my wife and this task. I also believe this motion is for the "betterment of daughter-in-law, plus driving that first nail. I have never been the Affiliate Chapters" and they will appreciate your coop a finish carpenter, so most of the work has been rough. How eration. This is every guild's task. NOW IS THE TIME! This ever, with a little finish material you can accomplish a lot of is the statement that was made last year and, since the pro things. The sun porch is a blessing to the cabin and when we posal was presented to the Board of Directors and acted upon, are sitting on it in the evenings or having breakfast there in "very little" has been sent to the Horological Times con the morning, we will know it is a worthwhile project of en cerning all the guilds' activities. There have been a few guilds joyment for others also. sending articles to the HT for all to read. We are starting our second year under the guidelines I belong to another organization for clocks, and not of the above proposal. Don't procrastinate, select your news one month goes by that their reporter doesn't send in some reporter now. This is the year we are going to set our priorities type of news about their meeting. This is what I would like to straight, look ourselves in the face, cooperate with others see taking place regarding our guild meetings. It seems to me in our guild, and "drive that first nail" to see this job to everyone is waiting on "someone" to do the reporting. Why completion. is it "someone" will not pick up the ball and run with it? 40 Horological Times/October 1988 NEWS .. .from all around the ASSOCIATION ... KANSAS The Kansas Jewelers Association elected their new UPCOMING CONVENTIONS directors for 1988 at the Annual Convention held at the Holiday Inn Holidome, June 3, 4 and 5, 1988 in Hutchinson, Kansas. Illinois Watchmakers Convention The officers and board are as follows: Richard October 14-16, 1988 Hannon, president; Betty Koerner, vice president; and William Jumers Castle Lodge-Peoria, IL C. Boyice, Jr., secretary/treasurer. Directors are Audie Bartel, Richard Flowers, Vera Hankins, William Hixon, Terry L. Florida State Watchmakers Association Lewis, Steve Parsons, Tim Regan, Patricia Reinbold, Robert 43rd Annual Convention E. Sigman, Bill R. Sober, Lionel Sutton, John J. Troy, and October 28-30, 1988 Robert L. Young. Salesman director is Don Sarver and execu Hilton Inn Gateway - Kissimmee, FL tive vice president is Sharon J. Blair. Most Outstanding Watchmaking Student t. Paul Technical lnstitute's "Most Outstanding • Watchmaking Student Award" for 1988 has been ~ awarded to Mr. Al Asrouch. This is a most meaningful award because Al was chosen by the other 16 watchmaking students, the people that he worked with every day. Mr. Asrouch will keep the plaque and have his name engraved on the larger trophy that remains on display in the Watch, Clock and Jewelry Repair Department at the St. Paul Technical Institute. The watchmaking students choose one student each year to receive this award based upon outstanding attitude, attendance, ability, and achievement. Not only did Mr. Asrouch do a truly outstanding job in all areas of the 9-month watch, clock and jewelry repair course, but he was always willing to help someone else, offer a suggestion, or pick up someone's material that was ordered. Congratulations to Al Asrouch and best wishes on a long and rewarding future. Al Asrouch, shown on the right, accepting the "Most Outstanding Watchmaking Student Award" from his instructor, Woody Woodward. BUY e SELL e HIRE e RELOCATE e LEARN e FIND A Classified Ad in HOROLOGICAL TIMES is an Inexpensive Way to Get What You Need! October 1988/Horologi,cal Times 41 Although this company pictures its movements back to 1882, the book pictures some unusual movements with cylinder escapements fitted to heavy gold cases, attached to Book Revi_ew. bracelets. An earlier cylinder escapemented baguette move ment, keywound and set and having eight jewels, is fitted to a bangle-type bracelet and dated 1868-1873. Others using LeCoultre ebauches appear in ladies' watches dating from PATEK PHILIPPE - GENEVE WRISTWATCHES by Martin 1910 onward. Huber and Alan Banbery. lO"xl l", 254 pages, 409 photos of A special section is a virtual catalogue of their wrist models, plus 140 augmentary illustrations. Columnar text in watches from the first decade of this century through the Art English, French, German, and Italian. Pub. by Antiquorum Deco period and into the 1930s, continuing through the WWII Editions, Geneva, 1988@ $195.00. era up to and including the quartz watch era. The 400+ watches (and their movements) include those with "grand complications." Some of these contain This is an excellent quality book addition to the book Patek various types of self-winding systems. Others are split seconds Philippe Geneve by the same authors about the general history chronographs, minute repeaters, and five-minute repeaters. and products of this reknowned maker. The new book and (Quarter repeating movements were never produced by Patek subject of this review, however, covers only wristwatches made Philippe.) Some wristwatches are shown containing perpetual by this company. calendars with moon-phases and tourbillon carriage escape- - Over 500 illustrations picture and describe virtually ments. Many of the over 400 watches shown also show their every model produced by this 150-year-old maker of the high movements in over 140 augmentary photographs. est quality watches. A history of the company follows a fore A complete list of production serial numbers of wrist word by the authors. watches production with the dates within which these were Martin Huber, a graduate of the watchmaking school produced, their model (calibre) numbers, and specified dimen of La Chaux de Fonds, represents the fourth generation of sions makes this a valuable reference. These numbers start the Munich watch establishment of that family. Coauthor Alan from 111,801 and progress through number 202,195, then Banbery is a graduate of the Geneva School of Watchmaking. skipping numbers through and up to 700,000, continuing Although a Londoner, he eventually became a Director of to 1971 with numbers 1,244,999. Patek Philippe. He is also curator of that company's private Mention is made of the availability of after-sales museum. Both authors were assisted by Gilbert L. Brunner. service and the book even mentions a service repair charge on a The authors delve into the technical contributions of very complicated wristwatch of $77 ,000, taking a few years Adrien Philippe in the early years of that company. Patents of and which later became part of the private Patek Philippe col the principal technicians of that establishment are covered and lection. listed among the contributions to the reputation of the or The photography, paper thickness and quality, its ganization. These improvements pertain to wristwatches as binding with gilt-edge paper, the dust cover and sleeve is of the well as the earlier pocket timepieces. Descriptions of these highest calibre. include the earliest stem winding devices and Adrien Philippe's The artwork, however, with its special drawings in own inventions which were incorporated into the products of color, must draw special praise. For this part of the book, the partnership founded by Antoine Norbert de Patek, a former - the authors and publishers have commissioned David Penny, young Polish army artillery officer. recognized as the foremost horological artist-draftsman. Penny A history of the wristwatch is concise but interest is also current editor of the (British) Antiquarian Horological ingly told in a special section. Mention is made of Elizabeth I's Society's Journal. gift from Leicester of a small, arm"bangled watch, and men The artwork consists of many flat drawings of wrist tion is also made of the early seventeenth century mathema watches, technical, under-the-dial mechanisms, exploded tician Pascal who "is purported to have worn his watch on his views of perpetual calendar mechanisms, chronographs, self wrist." Late eighteenth century and early nineteenth century winding devices, and two Patek Philippe quartz wristwatch armband examples are explained and their developing history movements. These drawings are accompanied by detailed ex is told which reaches well into the present century. planations of their operations and should be of particular help In the house of Patek Philippe the development of to those who are called upon to service such watches. the wristwatch not only kept pace with the marching horolog The price of $195 may appear rather rich to some ical technology but according to the authors often was in the readers. This book, however, by authors who are close to the forefront of such invention. One of these by Philippe adapted source of information and company archives and the actual to wristwatches with self-winding systems was the slip spring watches shown makes it an unusual edition. Its comprehensive in mainspring barrels. The Gyromax balance and hairspring coverage of facts and the extraordinary artwork and photo was another innovation. graphs should make ownership of this book enticing those Thirty-four different movements of 14"' (lignes) who also own a product of this company. Dealers of vintage and smaller are shown, some dating back to 1892 and with and prestige watches, and watchmakers of quality items technological improvements up to 1971. Each is shown with would want this book on a handy shelf. Others may want this its proper identity calibre number, size, ebauche supplier if volume to share a sense of vicarious possession of all the art other than Patek Philippe, jewel count, number of vibrations and technology shown between its covers. per hour, and other pertinent details. Among some of the fac While the book contains a good table of contents, tories supplying ebauches to them were Coudron, Piquet, there is so much detailed information in it that this reviewer LeCoultre, Von Klauber, Ni ton, Piquet-Capt, Meylan and wishes it also had a detailed index. Piaget. Also listed are the famed horologists who were enlisted Henry B. Fried to help produce watches of especial commissions and compli cations. 42 Horological Times/October 1988 New Products and Literature/News in the Trade SEIKO INTRODUCES WORLD'S and styles. Made in the USA of and logo will be imprinted free on precision engineered. Features in FIRST TWO-HAND ANALOG hardened stainless steel, Excaliper every cloth. You will also receive clude: high torque at constant ALARM CHRONOGRAPH will lay flat on any surface and a free lucite merchandising display RPM, air-cooled DC motors, vibra Seiko recently introduced the features a patented pneumatic re to spur impulse sales. The cloth tion free, true running, smooth world's first two-hand analog turn system for smooth opera- makes a thoughtful gift-with operation, telephone-type cord alarm chronograph, which com tion. purchase, and it keeps your good for easy reaching (e xtends 6'), bines the popular chronograph The gauge (GA800) comes name in front of your customers quick change collet mechanism function with a new alarm feature. with carrying case, battery charger, every time they clean their for fast and easy tool change, A technological marvel, and a one-year warranty. It re jewelry. lightweight, and comfortable grip. this timepiece conceals a state tails for $279.00. For more in For more information and Power Hand 11 Controller of-the-art quartz movement that formation, contact Kassoy, 28 a free color catalog, contact is a compact and lightweight unit allows the two hands to display W. 47th St., New York, NY L&R Manufacturing Co., 577 that provides power to all Power alarm time, stopwatch time, count 10036; or call toll free 1-800-4- Elm St., Kearny, NJ 07032; in Hand 11 Rotary handpieces. The down time, or real time at the KASSOY (NY state call 1-212- eastern states dial 1-800-LR speeds are adjusted by a slide user's command. Each of these 719-2290). CLEAN; in western states, call rheostat or an optional foot functions will continue on their 1-800-325-2627; in NJ dial 201- rheostat. precision mission regardless of 991-5330. For further information, which function is being displayed. contact Gesswein, P.O. Box 3998, Its brown-padded leather strap is 1\ 255 Hancock Ave., Bridgeport, complemented by a two-tone gilt CT 06605; (203) 366-5400. and cream dial, crisp Roman numerals, and a subdial which makes selecting alarm, stopwatch, and countdown timer modes easy. The model is SDT002, with a suggested retail price of $275.00. Seiko's new alarm chrono graph is available through Seiko's nationwide network of authorized dealers. NEW CATALOG FROM NDQ MAR KE TING CORP. NDQ Marketing Corp. is offering a new catalog featuring its com plete line of promotionally-priced timepieces from the factories of Hattori-Seiko. The glossy, 20-page booklet features full-color product photos with model numbers and brief descriptions. The first half of the ELLANAR JEWELRY catalog is devoted to LCD digital POLISHING CLOTH timepieces, as well as the blister L&R Manufacturing Company has card packaging and retail displays introduced its new Jewelry Polish designed especially for the LCD ing Cloth, which combines polish line. The remainder covers NDO's and a protective treatment in a analog and mechanical watches. single 15" x 14" oversized cloth. For a copy of NDO's It cleans and protects most fine catalog, write: NDQ Marketing jewelry quicker and easier than Corp., 989 Avenue of the Amer KASSOY FEATURES the two-cloth method. icas, New York, NY 10018; ELECTRONIC DIGITAL GAUGE Ellanar Jewelry Polishing or call toll free 1-800-255-2521. The Excaliper microcomputer cal Cloth instantly restores the natural culates approximate carat weight luster to gold, silver, platinum, of diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and precious stones, while adding GESSWEIN POWER HAND II and emeralds, and has 10 times a powerful tarnish barrier that ROTARY SYSTEMS SWEST PUBLISHES more resolution that the stan inhibits dulling and discoloring Gesswein Power Hand 11 Systems ELECTROPLATING dard Leveridge-type gauges. The caused by dirt, cosmetics, and have been specially designed for HANDBOOK measurements and weight are dis body oils. For best results, the setting, grinding, polishing, bright The Electroplating Handbook: A played on a clear digital readout cloth should be used after cleaning cutting, and other jobs that re Guide for Professional Jewelers and it is not necessary to refer jewelry with Ellanar Deluxe Jewel quire a dependable power source is now available from Swest, Inc. to tables. Accurate and easy to ry Cleaner or Silver Cleaner. and a handpiece that is accurate, Published by Swest, this operate, the Excaliper measures With your order of one consistent, and easy to use. book was written by F. Carlton up to 25 mm for all major cuts gross or more, your store name Power Hand 11 Handpieces are Cranor, founder and former Presi- October 1988/Horological Times 43 dent of Rey Industries. (A sub HAL WILENSKY NAMED sidiary of Swest, Rey Industries EXECUTIVE V.P. OF SEIKO is a leading manufacturer of Hal Wilensky has been named plating rectifiers as well as cast Executive Vice President of Seiko ing and polishing equipment.) Time Corporation, it was an In The Electroplating Hand nounced recently by Robert Plis book, Mr. Cranor pulls together kin, President. his vast knowledge and experi Mr . Wilensky, 45, has been ence to create this exceptional, with the company since 1978 in easy-to-follow plating manual. He key executive posts. For the past explains the procedures involved four years he had been Executive in electroplating in clear, concise Vice President of Diodon, Inc., language easily understood by be Atlanta, Georgia, the company's ginner and experienced plater owned distributor in the South alike. He puts special emph POCKET WATCH CASE REPAIR - Bezels, hinges, springs, dents, etc. HARRY MAZAR, Tick-Tock Specialties, 308 N. McLeansboro St., Benton, IL 62812; phone: (618) 439-6995. REGULATIONS AND RATES Ads are payable in advance $.50 per word, $.60 per word in bold type. Ads CUSTOM BALANCE STAFFS cut and fitted. are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to Since 1922. James Bourne, CMW, P.O. Box edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are 215, Ladysmith, WI 54848. Phone (715) $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. 532-3166. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. (e.g. August issue closed for copy on July 1st.) CLOCKS: gearcutting, retoothing, repivoting, rebushing, jeweling. REPAIRING: timers, air HOROLOGICAL TIMES, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 craft clocks, antique clocks, pocket watches. (513) 661-3838 Send sample for estimate. NIEGELS HORO LOGY, Roy Niegel, CMC, CMW, 101 E. St. Joe Drive, Spirit Lake, ID 83869. SASE, or call (208) 623-4330. CLOCK and MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT SERVICE Tradesman WE ARE FACTORY AUTHORIZED SERVICE FOR: material and tools. Custom made to order or * VIBROGRAF/PORTESCAP repair of gears, pinions and parts. Catalog * TICK-0-PRINT/L&R $2.00. TANI ENGINEERING, Box 338, WE SERVICE ALL MAKES OF ULTRASONICS AND OTHER SMALL TRADE SHOP LOOKING FOR NEW WATCH-RATE RECORDERS AND EQUIPMENT Atwater, OH 44201; (216) 94 7-2268. AC~OUNTS. Low prices, one day plus shipping JACK PHILLIPS e ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT SERVICE service. Return postage paid. Specialty quartz 24 LA GDMA AVENUE MILL VALLEY, CA 94941 FOR INFORMATION CALL: (415) 381-1338 and mechanical repair. Write or Call: Diekman Repair, P.O. Box 277, Big Stone City, SD TIMING MACHINES-NEW AND REFUR 57216; (605) 862-8331. BISHED. Quality Service and Repair. DON HOLDEN, Box 56, Penna. Furnace, PA 16865; DIAL REFINISHING CO. FAST SERVICE, CALL (814) 692-2285. FINEST QUALITY,. quantity works welcome. Specialize on changing dial feet positions to TRADE WATCHMAKERS: Full service on fit the quartz movement. Send your works to: Quartz, Automatic, Rolex, Pocket Watches, KIRK DIAL OF SEATTLE, 4th & Pike Bldg., Retrofitting, & etc. 7 to 10 day service, work CUTTERS cycloidal for clock wheels and Suite 625, Seattle, WA 9810 I. (206) 623-2452 guaranteed, 40 years experience. K & L Service, pinions. Module 0. 2 to 1.0. Constant profile 413 Commercial St., Emporia, KS 66801; producing traditional square bottomed teeth, (316) 342-8479. 104 sizes. Escape cutters: recoil (set of seven sizes), dead beat (set of four sizes). 'Ratchets Watch wheel cutting, repivoting and staffing. 60° and 70°. All cutters made in 8% cobalt WE CAN MAKE ANY PART Cylinder escapements restaffed in platforms M42 High Speed Steel. and heat treated under WE CAN RESTORE ANY WATCH and watches. Write for shipping instructions. vacuum. Also cutter grinding wheels, Grit and Free estimates, references on request, KEN LEESEBERG, RR 4, Box 286, P.O. Box CBN. Send for Information Sheet, prices and expedient services ar;.e provided. SASE for brochure, 447, Montello, WI 5 3949. order forms to: P.P. Thornton (Successors), WATCH & CASEMAKERS, LTD. Ltd .. Horological Cutter Makers, The Old Bake 140 N 7th Av~ .• P.O. Box 1314 house, Upper Tysoe, Warwickshire, CV35 OTR, H•ghtand Pork , N.J. 08904 Tel. 2111 937·5611 England. CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING Fast service - Write for free Brochure DIAL and price list. Fendleys, 2535 Himes REFINISHING St., Irving, TX 75060. {214) 986-7698 FREE DELIVERY-FAST SERVICE~~._. Timesavers • 312-658-2266 12 , Box 469 • Algonquin. IL tfJ 102 2 · NEW SWISS QUARTZ MOVEMENTS CUSTOM Send $2.00 to receive our new catalog. FITTED to Diamond, Gold, Antique, Senti -· mental Watches and Pocket-all sizes. Rolex, . .I Al . I Omega, Longines, Lecoultre, Girard Perregaux, GOLDEN K. JEWELRY TRADE WORK. ! I Bulova, Elgin, Gruen, Accutron, Hamilton. Professional Watchmaker and Jeweler. *Quartz, I Movado. Service and Quartz Conversion. I Accutron, Digital, Pocket, and Mechanical, BEFORE AFTER I ALFONSO ZAMORA, 280 Presidio Place. Watches Repaired. *Ring Sizing, all Soldering, I Buffalo, New York 14221; (716) 633-6138. Quartz Conversions I all Stone Setting, and all Jewelry Repaired. Diamond Dial Conversions I If Watchmaker and Jeweler Cannot Fix, YES I Emblem & Name Personalization I PRECISION TIME-TECH We Can Fix. 675 W. Peachtree St., NE, Box 27, I Sen in• a11cJ rcslOration of Rok\.. Piaget. PC1kk Philippe. Atlanta, GA 30308; phone (404) 881-0227. I Vacl1cron-Constanti11. ,\nlique pocket watchcs<.1 specialty. Write for Brochures 'I 5,, i~s-traincU master" alchmakcr. Roll':\. ccr~ ifictJ. Custom part m<..111ufacturc. E'\pc•t.Jicnl scrvic.T arnJ proflossiomd CLOCK MOVEMENTS rebushed & pivots INTERNATIONAL DIAL CO. INC. : 4L1ality. All \\ork fully guaranteed. refinished. Same week service. Free UPS, fac P.O. Box 236 J PRECISION TIME-TECH tory authorized. Two-year warranty. Butter Old Chelsea Station I 850 Old County Rd .. Belmont. CA 94002 worth Clock Repair, 1715 Pearlview Ct., New York, N.Y. 10011 : (415) 595-9334 Muscatine, IA 52761. (319) 263-6759. ------~ October 1988/Horological Times 45 Classified Ads STAKING SET-Brand New K&D 18R Com For Sale WATCHMAKING plete, Never Used $300. FRED HERINGTON, EQUIPMENT AND G-S (513) 984-1307. CRYSTALS FOR SALE: CLOCK TIMER. Regulate your clocks elec tronically with the new CTI Clock Timer. L& R TEMPO 400 Cleaning HERSCHEDE Can be used on almost any clock with mechani Machine...... $1000 Factory Parts/Service cal escapement. Pendulum clocks large and VIBROGRAF VC 10 qeaning New Bushing List and 65 Never-Used German small, lever or cylinder escapements, anniver· Movements. Send SASE for details: c/o Howard sary clocks, etc. For information write: Can Machine...... $1000 Klein, 541 Goethe, St. Louis, MO 63122; Tho Instruments, P.O. Box 80113, San Diego, L&R CONSOLE Cleaning (314) 821-0129. CA 92138. Machine-NEW ...... $ 5 00 L&R TC 47A Tickoprint Compact Timing Machine w/MU35 KUNDO AND SCHATZ PARTS mechanical, Microphone ...... $750 CUCKOO CLOCK AND BIRD electronic, and quartz. Try us! Baltimore Clock CAGE BELLOWS MATERIAL Parts, 5662 Baltimore National Pike, Baltimore, L&R Electronic Demagnitizers-$25 Save time, money, and work re-covering MD 21228. G-S Crystals 25 C System-$750 bellows. Easier than replacing. For infor· mation, send business-size S.A.S.E. to: Individual sets from 25 C-~ retail JANDi GOGGIN All items are slightly used but in Box 175H, Huntington, NV 11743-0175 Suppliers for mechanical watch very good condition. Call immedia parts. Hard-to-get GLASS crystals tely for information. We only have for hunting and open face pocket a limited supply: watches. Same day service. BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE! 1-404-457-9686 Thornton Cutters in stock. KEN LAW, CMC Nationwide Watts 1-800-777-8962 H.C. 30, Box 825, Prescott, Arizona 86301. Antique Watch Co. of Atlanta THE BUTTNER COMPANY, INC. 2075 Savoy Drive Karl Buttner, CMW 2312 San Mateo Place NE Atlanta, GA 30341 GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE Albuquerque, NM 87110 941-D Broadway, El Cajon, CA 92021 "A watchmaker for the watchmakers" HOWARD POCKET WATCH Model 'N' Serial PARTS AND SERVICE HEADQUARTERS No. 11605, Patent Date Mershon's April 26, FOR SCHATZ, KUNDO, KOMA, KERN, HAL 1859. Pinion-Reeds Patent Nov. 24, 1857. Ex LER, HERMLE, NISSHINDO. MECHANICAL cellent Condition. (801) 586-4637. QUARTZ-ELECTRONIC-CIRCUIT BOARDS Electronic Watch Service Manual & Catalog MAINSPRINGS-SUSPENSIONS SPRINGS and Illustrations & Instructions for measuring, MOVEMENTS, ETC testing, regulating and part numbers. 179 movements, over 200 pages. $49.95. Also: Clock Movement Catalog, 250 pages, $35 .00. THE GERMAN CLOCK INDUSTRY QUARTZ Sales * Service * Information Company Help Wanted P.O. Box 17351, Irvine, CA 92713 MOVEMENTS WATCHMAKER-Be a part of a new and grow MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed ing watchmaking service. Openings in Erie and lowest prices-as low as $2 .30. 2-yr. guarantee. Pittsburgh, PA, Boston, Florida, and Texas. Large selection of hands and numerals. Free WATCH Must have full knowledge of electric and con delivery . SASE or call (704) 333·0221. Hall ventional watches. Call ( 412) 922-8880 or write: Clock Shop, 1512 Central Ave., Charlotte. Jewelry Repair Center, 9 Parkway Center, Suite NC 28205. BATTERIES 102, Pittsburgh, PA 15220. The Lowest Prices WATCHMAKER WANTED-Experienced in me in the Industry chanical, chronograph, quartz analog. Excellent opportunity--No cap on production earnings. Benefits. National headquarters shop. Respond to: Personnel, People's Jewelry Company, CALL US AND FIND P.O. Box 973, Toledo, OH 43696. OUTI Immediate openings for two watchmakers. Star Struclc Retail/Trade jewelry store in rural upstate New York. New 4-person shop with latest equipment. Work with CMW. Good entry level 1-800-243-6144 position. Contact: Crandall's Jewelers, Box 203-847-9292 485, Alfred, NY 14802. 46 Horological Times/October 1988 WATCHMAKER/CLOCKMAKER-Busy South Florida clock store. Send resume and address inquiries to: Carl Jackson, 1210 N.E. 163rd St., WANTED Watches Wanted N. Miami Beach, FL 33162. We Buy All Types Of Jewelers Scrap-Any Condition. Wrist and Pocket Fast, quality watchmaker needed for jewelry store and trade shop. $20,000-$25,000 for the right person. Cleveland, Ohio. Call (216) Gold-filled Watchbands, 932-2500. Plated Watchbands, Silver Watch Batteries, (Mixed acceptable-We sort free of charge & we pay for mercury) G.F. Optical, Cases, etc. Books GOLD-We pay up to 97% of the market price for lOK, 14K, etc. We buy filings, bench sweeps, filters, and AMERICAN REPRINTS CO. buffing waste. We desperately need for our retail customers fine watches by: OCTOBER BOOK REVIEW \\\. Please call or write ,, for more information: PATEK PHILIPPE WRIST WATCH BOOK Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Vacheron & by M. Huber and A. Banbery .... $195.00 Constantin, Gubelin, Audemars Piguet, Movado, SPECIALTYMETALSREFINING CO. ******* Hamilton, E. Howard, Illinois, Elgin, Waltham, etc. PATEK PHILIPPE GENEVE-lst Book 10 BAY STREET by M. Huber and A. Banbery .... $145.00 WESTPORT, CT 06880 We are paying top prices for any high ******* TIME IN GOLD, WRISTWATCHES-A his quality, unusual or complicated tory of the leading Swiss wristwatch com- Wrist or Pocket Watches panies. Beautiful color ...... $79.95 1-800-426-2344 ******* In Connecticut call (203) 372-0481. Chronographs, Doctors Style, Moonphase, Calendars, THE AMERICAN WRISTWATCH: FIVE DECADES OF DESIGN by E. Faber and "We will match any legitimate offer Curvexes, Repeaters, Diamond Dials, Enamels, S. Unger. 650 color photographs authored and still give you our quick, Railroads, Military, Multi-Colors, Keywinds, by two respected dealers. Late October dependable service." delivery...... $79.95 Hunting Cases, Automatons, etc. SCANLON AMERICAN REPRINTS CO. Postage and UPS reimbursed. P.O. Box 379 •Modesto, CA 95353 When You're Ready to Sell a Fine Watch (209) 667-2906 OUR Slst CONSECUTIVE AD Call Us Toll Frre 1 -800-84 2-86 2 5 In Texas 1-214-902-0664 Always prompt immediate payment! Wanted To Buy Wingate's Quality Watches WANTED P.O. Box 59760 Dallas, Texas 75229-1760 Casting Equipment/Watchmaker's Tools USED CLOCK GEAR CUTTING MACHINE Equipment, material and crystal systems, WITH ACCESSORIES WANTED. Wagner Clock benches, cabinets, old broken or un Repair, 1900 Lake St., Dyer, IN 46311;(219) claimed wrist and pocketwatches; watch 865-3160. factory pictures, displays or signs. Need G.F. 14K/18K Hamilton electric, Accu We pay 97% of market for karat gold scrap tron, S.S. or Gold Moonphase Chrono (any amount)! Also, buy filings, gold fill, WANTED: Unusual American pocket watches/ graph, Lecoultre Alarm/Futurematic, A. sweeps, silver, platinum! Immediate 24-hour movements. I buy entire collections, estates, Lange watches, IRV BARD. payment return mail! Ship insured/registered watchmakers' inventories. Over 25 years mail to: AMERICAN METALS COMPANY AVON MET AL SERVICE, LTD. experience of honest and reliable confidential 253 King St., Dept. HT, Charleston, SC 29401'. transactions. JON HANSON, Box 5499, Beverly P.O. Box 17484-(414) 351-0933 Established 1960. Phone: (803) 722-2073. Hills, California 90210; (213) 826-7778. Milwaukee, WI 53217 WANTED: Zenith Zl 13 power head for manual watch cleaning machines. James N. Skinner, 729 Coleman St., Heflin, AL 36264; (205) $$WE WANT TO BUY YOUR WATCHES! $$ 463-7153. PATEK PHILIPPE, ROLEX, Cartier, Gubelin Schools WANTED-Vintage Wristwatches & Better pocket Watches-Keywind, RR, Repeaters, Enamels, Gold WANTED-Scrap and/or resellable gold jewelry or filled, watches need not be running. All types of Correspondence courses in Quartz-Accutron (no sterling or gold-filled), will pay more than watches purchased with payment made same day. Watchmaking-Jewelry-Lost Wax Casting-and scrap value. HI HO CENTER JEWELERS, When you're ready to sell-CALL TOLL FREE Rubber Mold Making. Free folders. Watch 1-800-235-2866. Maundy International Watches, making Institute of Canada, 1012 Mt. Royal 303 State Street, Bridgeport, CT 06604; (203) P.O. Box 13028H, Overland Park, Kansas 66212. 336-5044. St. East, Montreal, H2J 1X6; (514) 523-7623. October 1988/Horological Times 47 Dates to Remember Ad Index American Perfit...... •...... 17 OCTOBER 1988 Borel ...... 7 8-9-Horological Association of Virginia Fall 20-23-National Association of Watch and Bowman School. 23 Seminar, Richmond, VA. For more Clock Collectors (USA) 9th Annual information contact Steve Black, Rt. 1, Seminar "French Horology 1660-1820," . outside back cover Box 154-D, Hardy, VA 24101; phone Getty Museum; Malibu, CA. Informa Cas-Ker Co ... (703) 3444446. tion: Herbert Gold, 11995 Darlington Charles Cleves ...... 21 Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90049; (213) 486-2136 (24 hrs.). Esslinger ..•. inside front cover 8-9-Restoration of Fusee Watches Bench Seminar (AWi); Ralph Geiger, instructor; 28-30-Florida State Watchmakers Association Seattle, WA.• 43rd Annual Convention; Hilton Inn Gem City College...... 31 Gateway; Kissimmee, FL. Germanow-Simon. .19, 21, 23 14-Jewelry Industry Distributors Association (JI DA) 1988 Industry Visitation Pro FEBRUARY 1989 Innovative Electronics . 29 gram held at B. Jadow & Sons facilities in Austell, GA (outside Atlanta, GA). 10-14-INHORGENTA 89, Munich Trade Fair For more information write JI DA, Jewelmont Corp ...... 29 Centre, Munich, West Germany. For 113 W. Franklin St., Baltimore, MD more information contact Gerald G. 21201. Kallman, Five Maple Court, Ridgewood, Kassay ...... 27 NJ 074504431. Phone (201) 652-7070. 14-16-Antique Watch Restoration Bench Seminar (AWi}; Archie B. Perkins, S. LaRose . 25 instructor; Boston, MA.* Livesay's, Inc 27 14-16-lllinois Watchmakers Annual Conven New York Jewelers Supply ...... 31 tion; Jumers Castle Lodge; Peoria, IL. * Contact AWi Central for more information. Panasonic ...... 5 Ray Gaber Co...... 11 Seiko ...... inside back cover Toledo Jewelers. 15 Tumi Watch Co . 19 Twin City Supply. 13 Vibrograf USA ...... 13 Zantech, Inc...... 3 BENCH OCTOBER 1988 8-9 w Chicago, IL GEIGER COVR~E~ 14-16 v Boston, MA PERKINS PROGRAMS INSTRUCTORS ------. A Meler Microamps end Modules ...... • . . Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS I I B AWi Cer1irittd Cllizen Ouarlz Watch Tttchnlci11n , .Buddy Carpenter, CEWS I AWi BENCH COURSES P.O. Box 11011 Cincinnati, OH 45211 I C Puls•r Ou.rtz Analog Y590 •nd V 112 ...... Jeme!I H. Broughton, CEWS 0 Seiko Ouarlz Combos , . , .... , ...... le!llie l. Smith, CMW, CEWS I I E Qu11rtz W•tch Tes1 Equipment .. • ...... • . . Calvin E. Sustechek, CMW I I am interested in your bench course to be presented on: I F Common Sen:sie Ou11rll Wetch Repair . . , ... • . . Robert F. Bishop, CEWS G ESA D'eitaVAnalog 900.911 and ETA Analog I 961.101 ...... •• .William Biederman, CMW I H ESA Anal09 Ouarlz Repair ...... •• . James Adams, CMW I at: ______. Please send information.I I Using the Wetchmltken lttht ...... • . Archie 8 . Perk int, CMW l Introduction lo Striking Clodc:t ...... Jo~ G. Baier, Ph.D., CMC, CMW Name: I M Striking Ck>ckf-Adnnnd Seminu ...... • . . Jo5eph G. B11it1r, Ph.D., CMC, CMW I N •nd Introduction to Clock Repair .. , ...... Ron lnrson Jim LllChapella R lntroducllon to Jewelry Sklllt . . , . , ...... Marshall F. Richmond, CMW I Addre~ : ------1 S Ma.µ;gcme-nt Semlnsr . . . , • , • . • , , ...... ,Frtd S. Bur~h• r d1 I T Retrofilti"9 . .. • .•• .. • • , ••• • • . . • . . . Buddy C11rpenter, CEWS I City: State: Zip: I J11mes H, Brough1on, CEWS U Adnnced l11the Course . • . • , • , , ••• , , , , .Archie B. Perkins, CMW, I I V Antique Watch Restoration .. .• , • • , • ••• . . Archie B. Perkins, CMW L------W Restoration of Fusae Witches . .• . • • • . • • . • . Ralph Geiger, CMW, CMC, CEWS 48 Horological Times/October 1988 Now every piece of Seiko data you need can be at your fingertips. Each standard size microfiche card contains as much as 390 8112'' x 11" catalog pages. Introducing the comprehensive Seiko Microfiche System. Get all the information you want, when you want it, fast. The lightweight Seiko Microfiche System conveniently saves you time, space, and money. Here's the kind of information it provides. Simply. Quickly. Quartz Casing Parts List: includes all casing part numbers for Seiko Quartz watches referenced by case number. Quartz Movement Parts List: contains all movement part numbers for Seiko Quartz watches referenced by calibre number, with pictures of the parts. Master Band Cross Reference: this list, never before available, provides you with the band number for all Seiko watches by both case number reference and model number reference. Each microfiche card grid is titled and alphanumerically indexed for fast, easy reference. And all Seiko microfiche documents are scaled to 48x magnification, compatible with just about any standard microfiche reader. Seiko Fiche $42.00 Pulsar - Lorus Fiche $17.50 Seiko-Pulsar-Lorus Fiche $59.50 The current Seiko Microfiche System only weighs about three ounces. By comparison, the same information in hard copy version, if available, would weigh over 35 pounds and cost hundreds of dollars. The Seiko Microfiche System is the better way to put the information you need at your fingertips. Order through the Seiko Service Planning 1111 MacArthur Boulevard, Mahwah, NJ 07430 (201) 529-3311 SEIKO Also available, while supplies last, are free Seiko Battery Replacement MAN INVENTED TIME. Manuals and a new Seiko Case Servicing Guide. SEIKO PERFECTED IT. YOUR SOURCE TOOLS • SUPPLIES •EQUIPMENT FINDINGS •WATCH MATERIAL WATCH CRYSTALS• MOVEMENTS WE GUARANTEE: SERVICE • QUALITY • COMPETITIVE PRICES Cas-~& rr Co. 2121 Spring Grove Avenue P.O. Box 14069 Cincinnati, Ohio 45214 CALL TOLL FREE: 1-800-543-0408. OH: 1-800-582-8027. $15 MINIMUM WATS ORDER. INFORMATION & INQUIRIES PHONE 513-241-7073. SERVING WATCHMAKERS & JEWELERS FOR THREE GENERATIONS