ENGLISH A Peaceful Place of Coexistence Kuzguncuk was first a residential How to get to Kuzguncuk? area for the Jewish community. As Kuzguncuk is on the Asian side of Once in Üsküdar, you can decide between Later this neighborhood was , you first need to go to Üsküdar. a 20-minute walk or a 2-minute cab ride. opened to the Armenians, Greeks, You can take the intercontinental tube If you like to adventure a public bus, you can Kuzguncuk and Muslims. For years all these (Marmaray) to Üsküdar from either catch any of them from the bus station in A Traditional Neighborhood of Peaceful Coexistence communities lived together in Sirkeci or Yenikapı. Üsküdar Square which head north along peace and harmony. There are the Bosphorus. Perhaps a better option would be a ferry With its long history, rich architecture, fresh air, coffee shops, two synagogues, two Orthodox from Eminönü, Karaköy or Beşiktaş. Since Kuzguncuk has a pier and you may and chocolatiers, the neighborhood of Kuzguncuk located churches and one Armenian the Beşiktaş-Üsküdar route takes less than also like to try to catch a ferry stopping along the peaceful Asian shores of the Bosphorus far from the church, and two mosques. 10 minutes, you might find yourself wishing at Kuzguncuk. Kuzguncuk blends all of these it didn’t end so quickly. crowds and confusion of Istanbul is now the new hot spot for spiritual riches together into a both Istanbulians and visitors. cultural mosaic. 15 Jul y Martyrs Bridge EUROPEAN SIDE A good example of this could be (Rumeli) Surrounded by nature preserves and green Today the Kuzguncuk Mosque and the ORTAKÖY cemeteries, Kuzguncuk is a quiet seaside Armenian Surp Krikor Lusarovich Church a 19th century woman named neighborhood consisting of cobblestone sit side- by-side. Just around the corner is a Victoria, whose mother was a streets lined with beautiful, vivid-color large synagogue as well. Greek Orthodox, father was a Jew, wooden houses. and husband was a Muslim Turk. So close were these different communities BEŞİKTAŞ This is a place where you not only can get that the Armenian community made KUZGUNCUK away from the city, but also get a breath a donation for the construction of the of fresh air. When you are in Kuzguncuk, Kuzguncuk Mosque. S you definitely will feel like you are not in U R Istanbul. It’s like a romantic road-stop, O a whisper in the midst of the urban rush. P H S O B

ÜSKÜDAR

ASIAN SIDE (Anadolu)

www.quickguides.info Published by Yenen Publishing (Şerif Yenen) www.serifyenen.com • [email protected] Copyright © 2020 Şerif Yenen Written by Şerif Yenen Edited by David Hendrix Design by Cem Günübek Illustrations by Cemil Cahit Yavuz 6 3 History 1 Beth Yaakov Synagogue was originally opened on Sundays for services. There is also 10 17 What to buy? For those with a sweet tooth built as a summer services synagogue in an Ayazma (Sacred Spring) located to the left There was settlement in Kuzguncuk as early Armenians began settling in Kuzguncuk in Strolling along the main street, you will come Chocolatier Aziz Bey is a modest chocolate 1878. It is the only synagogue that still of the bell tower. 16 as the Byzantine era. the 18th century and had become a sizable across butcher shops, bakeries, haberdashery, shop in Kuzguncuk where seasonal products functions in Kuzguncuk. Although many group by the 19th century. Their first church and stationary stores, along with numerous are offered to those with a sweet tooth. In Jews, who were expelled from , began of the synagogues’ former members have cafes and restaurants scattered around the the winter season, hot chocolate varieties was built here in 1835. Sokak Musa Tenekeci settling in the in the late relocated to other districts of İstanbul, the İcadiye Caddesi neighborhood worth visiting. You will also increase, while in the summer cold chocolate 15th century. Over the centuries, many Jews Although most of the new residents came Services continued to be held here on the 2 Sokak Behlül enjoy browsing small jewelry ateliers, art and seasonal fruits are presented with their left their traditional quarters of Istanbul such from the , Kuzguncuk still weekends to keep it from closing. To be able galleries, curiosity shops, artisan bakeries. delicious chocolate desserts. as Balat for villages along the Bosphorus maintains its character as a cultural mosaic. to visit this synagogue, you need to apply to For bookworms and coffee addicts like Kuzguncuk. the Chief Rabbinate of in advance. With their extraordinary funnel-like The Jews recognized the Kuzguncuk Stroll Around its Streets 2 Bet Nissim Synagogue was built in the 15 architecture, the neighborhood cafes and neighborhood as being linked to as a region 4 7 Kuzguncuk is the kind of a place 1840s, but it does not function anymore. bookstores are hot spots for bookworms and that was attached to Jerusalem and the 14 where you should take a stroll 3 The Nakkaştepe Jewish Cemetery is coffee enthusiasts. Some concept bookstores Holy Land. Kuzguncuk Mosque became the earliest around its streets, which are one of the largest Jewish cemeteries in the 7 also include the inseparable combination of

mosque when it was built in 1952 in the Sokak Koç Deli filled with old wooden houses city. It dates back to the 16th century with coffee and books. courtyard of the Armenian church. Sokak Efendi Bican that have been restored and gravestones in both Hebrew and Ladino (A For a home cooked meal Menteş Sokak painted in a wide variety of form of Old Spanish spoken by Sephardic 8 Üryanizade Mosque was originally built as a Kuzguncuk, being a neighborhood of local vivid colors. Jews). Permission in advance is required from masjid (a small mosque) in 1860. It was later Sokak Bereketli businesses, is famous for restaurants featuring 18 6 Sokak Tütsülü Every wednesday there is a the Chief Rabbinate of Turkey to be able to converted to a mosque which would become a wide variety of home cooked meals. Bamyacı Sokak street market in Kuzguncuk. visit this cemetery. famous for its wooden minaret. İcadiye Caddesi The large market adds to the 4 The Armenian Surp Krikor Lusavoriç (St. charm of the narrow streets. Gregory the Illuminator) Church was first built by architect Ohannes Amira Serverian in 1835 and later rebuilt in 1861. It is an exceptionally ornate church with a cruciform Baba Nakkaş Sokak

plan consisting of three naves and a narthex. Paşalimanı Caddesi İnci Çayırlı Sokak ÜSKÜDAR It is covered with a central dome resting Yenigün Sokak 9 on four large pillars. The interior is well 5 1 illuminated by windows in its side walls. 9 Kuzguncuk Gardens developed by Üsküdar 5 Ayios Yorgios (St. George) Greek Municipality, now functions as a community Orthodox Church took its present form garden where locals plant herbs and BOSPHORUS when it was renovated in 1996. When exactly Kuzguncuk12 Çarşı Caddesi vegetables in the middle of the city. this church was built is not known. 4 13 10 Abdülmecid Efendi Pavilion is a historical 6 Greek Orthodox Church of wooden mansion originally built as a 7 St. Panteleimon and Ayazma was built in 11 hunting lodge in the 1800s. Neo-Ottoman 1831 on the site of a church dating back to 11. Kuzguncuk Pier in design, the beautiful mansion was home 12. Çınaraltı Cafe the 6th century during the time of Emperor 13. İsmet Baba Fish Restaurant to the last Caliph Abdülmecid Efendi, the Justinian. It was reputedly one of the oldest 14. Chocolatier Aziz Bey cousin of Sultan Abdülhamid II. Currently art churches still in use in Istanbul. The domed 15. Fethi Paşa Woods exhibitions are hosted here. Abdullah Ağa Caddesi 16. Haci Mehmet Ali bell tower was added later in 1911. It is Ozturk Mosque 17. Kuzguncuk Park 8 18. Greek Orthodox Cemetery YLERBEYİ Be