4
SECTION 4 EUFORAEUFORACOLOR PROFESSIONAL™
EUFORACOLORFrom its inception,TM EuforaColor was designed with the colorist in mind. The innovative hybridFrom its technology inception, ofEuforaColor EuforaColor was allows designed for fewer with tubesthe colorist in the insalon mind. with The unlimited innovative possibilitieshybrid technology for custom of EuforaColor color formulations. allows for fewer tubes in the salon with unlimited possibilities for custom color formulations.
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4-1 4-1 EUFORACOLOR OXIDATIVE DYE TECHNOLOGY
At Eufora we understand the need for excellence and high performance when it comes to hair color. With that in mind, EuforaColor was created with advanced hybrid technology that incorporates LOW and NO Ammonia color at extremely low percentages. Low percentages of an alkalizing agent in hair color creates less swelling of the hair shaft, keeping the cuticle layer more compact (less open) during processing. This gentle approach allows for hair color that lasts, has incredible shine, and leaves the hair strand gorgeously healthy.
HYBRID TECHNOLOGY EuforaColor Hybrid Technology is a new genre of hair color performance. The Eufora approach to hair color is designed to cross mix technologies in one formula. Hybrid Formulations puts EuforaColor on the forefront of hair color technology.
EUFORACOLOR LOW AMMONIA SHADES EuforaColor Low Ammonia Shades contain less than 1% Ammonia and are gentle enough to protect the integrity of the hair strand, yet strong enough to lift natural melanin. Ammonia has been tried, tested and true throughout the history of hair color. 90% of all salons in North America use ammonia as their choice for permanent color.
EUFORACOLOR NO AMMONIA SHADES EuforaColor No Ammonia Shades contain less than 1% MEA (Monoethanolamine) with permanent, long lasting 100% grey coverage. This series shines on its own and is calibrated to match level, tone and mixing formulations with the EuforaColor Low Ammonia Shades.
The Eufora exclusive Micro Molecular Technology in both Low and No Ammonia shades allows for the low alkalizing agent levels in EuforaColor. This revolutionary technology allows for the creation of tiny pigment particles that easily pass through the small openings in the cuticle layer of the hair strand, depositing deeply into the cortex. The micro molecular pigment particles in EuforaColor are atomized in a vacuum environment, producing color pigment with 99.98% purity.
4-2 KEY BENEFITS OF MICRO MOLECULAR TECHNOLOGY:
• Unsurpassed color saturation in the cortex. • Increased vibrancy of tone. • Smoother cuticle layer (due to reduced swelling of the hair shaft). • Exceptional grey coverage. • Greater longevity of color with less fading.
UNSURPASSED COVERAGE EuforaColor Hybrid Technologies give colorists the ability to mix two technologies together in the same formula with predictable and consistent results.
THIS ALLOWS FOR:
• Lift and deposit for greater saturation and control. • 100% grey coverage with Hybrid Formulations when lift is required. • 100% grey coverage with No Ammonia Formulations for deposit only.
The benefits of the EuforaColor Hybrid technology begin with how No Ammonia and Low Ammonia rests in the hair strand.
EUFORACOLOR LOW AMMONIA SHADES Low Ammonia color rests throughout the entire cortex, lifting and depositing simultaneously while exposing underlying pigment throughout the process. Low Ammonia pigment will work to neutralize, balance or enhance the exposed underlying pigment.
4-3 EUFORACOLOR NO AMMONIA SHADES No Ammonia color forms an additional ring of deposit into the outer 1/3 area of the cortex, reflecting through the cuticle. The No Ammonia pigment is permanent and has the ability to add to the desired end result of neutralizing, balance or enhancing exposed underlying pigment.
EuforaColor HYBRID FORMULATIONS Mixing EuforaColor Low and No Ammonia Color into a single formula combines the benefits of both technologies, creating a hybrid approach to hair color.
4-4 A HYBRID FORMULA HAS THE ABILITY TO:
• Lift from the Low Ammonia alkalizing agent. • Achieve advanced deposit through specific location delivery in the cortex of Low and No Ammonia Color. • Greater tonal control. • Congruent, high quality pigments used in both Low and No Ammonia Color. • Create greater longevity and vibrancy of color. • Provide superior grey coverage and tonal control when lift is required. • Provide exceptional coverage for resistant grey hair. • Allow for full line usage.
EuforaColor utilizes the highest-grade color pigment available in both the Low and No Ammonia technologies. This congruency in pigment quality allows for the mixing of Low and No Ammonia color together in the same formula. There is no “clashing of pigments.” A EuforaColor Low Ammonia 6.0/6N has the same quality pigments, level, dye load and tonal value as a No Ammonia 6.0/6N. This calibration guarantees that when the two technologies are mixed there will be predictability and accuracy in the final color outcome.
EuforaColor calibration also allows the colorist to create any “in-between” shade for the exact level needed.
The trick to creating “in-between” shades is to measure in equal parts (half or thirds) and add each addition together. Then simply divide your final number by the amount of “parts” you put into your formula.
Examples: Target Shade: 6.0/6N (when using shades that are 2 levels apart) Mix ½ part 5.0/5N and ½ part 7.0/7N (5+7=12 ÷ 2 = 6)
Target Shade: 6.0/6N (when using shades that are more than 2 levels apart) Mix 1/3 part 4.0/4N, with 1/3 part 7.0/7N, and an additional 1/3 part 7.0/7N (4+7+7=18 ÷ 3 = 6)
The pigment pre-cursor in EuforaColor is Paraphenylenediamine (PPD). As learned in the Universal Color Theory chapter of this Encyclopedia, PPD is the most widely tested agent in hair color with over 50+ years of documented results.
LUMINOSITY EuforaColor fits between translucent and opaque in luminosity. This allows for significant vibrancy and incredible shine. Many colors sacrifice shine for opacity, or coverage for shine. The cool base of EuforaColor, combined with key ingredients, allows for both coverage and shine.
Micro Molecular Technology, along with the renowned benefits of Aloe, Jojoba and Beeswax in EuforaColor, minimizes damage and preserves the integrity of the hair and scalp. The result is silky, healthy, vibrant hair with unparalleled color saturation and shine.
4-5 ALOE VERA Rich in amino acids, the building blocks of protein, Aloe Vera is known for its nourishing and healing benefits. Aloe Vera also helps maintain hydration and protects the health of the hair and scalp.
JOJOBA OIL Known for its ability to soothe, smooth and moisturize hair. Jojoba Oil is a lightweight oil that contains Vitamin E and is rich in fatty glycerides, natural emollients that help to improve shine, softness and moisture retention.
CERA ALBA (BEESWAX) This impressive multi-functioning natural emollient provides lubrication and hydration for velvety softness. Cera Alba is also highly regarded for its ability to add volume, thickness, strength and shine to hair.
EUFORACOLOR IS COOL EuforaColor is a cool based line, the natural series green-blue base allows for easy color formulation. The artistic advantage to starting with EuforaColor cool based color is that there is no need to combat unwanted warmth when formulating. A cool base allows the colorist to build upon their formula instead of combating warmth from the tube.
Grey coverage becomes easier with the EuforaColor Natural Series. The cool base provides a foundation to build the desired tone upon, providing control and 100% coverage when following the basic rules of grey coverage covered later in this chapter.
EUFORACOLOR LEVEL SYSTEM Each color “brand” has its own level system. It is imperative to “swatch out” each guest to determine where their natural level fits in the EuforaColor system. Use the Natural (.0/N) or Natural Ash (.01/NA) swatches to determine level.
THE EUFORACOLOR LEVEL SYSTEM
Level 1 Black Level 2 Darkest Natural Brown Level 3 Dark Natural Brown Level 4 Medium Natural Brown Level 5 Light Natural Brown Level 6 Dark Natural Blonde Level 7 Medium Natural Blonde Level 8 Light Natural Blonde Level 9 Very Light Natural Blonde Level 10 Lightest Natural Blonde
4-6 EUFORACOLOR TONE SYSTEM
There are 8 Tones and 15 Extended Tones in the EuforaColor palette.
The EuforaColor Tone System: The Extended EuforaColor Tone System:
Natural .0/N Intense Natural .00/IN Ash .1/A Natural Ash .01/NA Violet .2/V Natural Warm .03/NW Gold .3/G Blue Black .10/BB Copper .4/C Intense Ash .11/AA Mahogany .5/M Ash Violet .12/AV Red .6/R Intense Violet .22/VV Blue/Violet .7 Beige .32/GV Golden Mahogany .35/GM Carmel .42/CV Intense Copper .44/CC Intense Copper Violet .442/CCV Red Violet .62/RV Intense Red .66/RR Coffee .73/AG
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4-7 HOW TO READ EUFORACOLOR The numeric and alphabetic identifiers on EuforaColor follow a universal system.
The number(s) before the decimal point in the identifier represents theNatural Balance Level of the color, and will contribute depth and natural balance to the final color result. Natural Balance Level ranges from 50% of the total base of a color to 70% in the Natural and Intense Natural Series.
The numbers after the decimal point represent the Tonal Contribution to the final color result.
FOR GENERAL PURPOSES:
The Tonal Contribution percentages in EuforaColor range from 30% to 60% of the total base of a color.
The first number after the decimal point is the Primary Tone and represents 30% of the total Tonal Contribution to the final color result.
The second number after the decimal point is the Secondary Tone and represents 20% of the total Tonal Contribution to the final color result.
The third number (where applicable) after the decimal point is the Tertiary Tone and represents an additional 10% of Tonal Contribution to the final color result.
If there are two numbers in the identifier, 70% of the color contribution will be Natural Balance Level and 30% will be Tone.
Example: 4.0/4N (Medium Natural Brown) 70% of the base is Natural Balance Level; Medium Natural Brown (4.) 30% of the base is Natural Tone (.0/N)
If there are three numbers in the identifier, 50% of the color contribution will be Natural Balance Level, 30% will be Primary Tone and 20% will be Secondary Tone.
Example: 4.62/4RV (Medium Red Violet Brown) 50% of the base is Natural Level; Medium Natural Brown (4) 30% of the base is Red Tone (.62/RV) 20% of the base is Violet Tone (.62/RV)
The exception to this rule is the Intense Natural Series where 70% of the color contribution will be Natural Balance Level, 30% will be primary tone and an additional 20% Secondary Tone is added.
Example: 4.00/4NN (Medium Intense Natural Brown) 70% of the base is Natural Level; Medium Natural Brown (4.) 30% of the base is Natural Tone (.00/NN) 20% of the base is Natural Tone (.00/NN)
4-8 If there are four numbers in the identifier, 50% of the color contribution will be Natural Balance Level, 30% will be Primary Tone, 20% will be Secondary Tone and 10% will be Tertiary Tone. This will calculate to 110% and represents an intense saturation of Tone and pigment.
Example: 4.442/4CCV (Medium Intense Copper Violet Brown) 50% of the base is Natural Level; Medium Natural Brown (4.) 30% of the base is Copper Tone (.442/CCV) 20% of the base is Copper Tone (.442/CCV) 10% of the base is Violet Tone (.442/CCV)
SHADE NATURAL PRIMARY SECONDARY TERTIARY FINAL BALANCE TONE TONE TONE TONE LEVEL Natural .0/N 70% 30% Natural N/A N/A (Green/Blue) Intense Natural .00/IN 70% 30% Natural 20% Natural N/A (Green/Blue) Natural Ash .01/NA 50% 30% Natural 20% Ash N/A (Blue/Green) Natural Warm .03/NW 50% 30% Natural 20% Gold N/A (Green/Blue)
.3/G 50% 50% Gold N/A N/A Gold
.32/GV 50% 30% Gold 20% Violet N/A Beige
.4/C 50% 50% Copper N/A N/A Copper
.44/CC 50% 30% Copper 20% Copper N/A Intense Copper
.42/CV 50% 30% Copper 20% Violet N/A Copper Violet Intense Copper .442/CCV 50% 30% Copper 15% Copper 5% Violet Violet .6/R 50% 50% Red N/A N/A Red
.66/RR 50% 30% Red 20% Red N/A Intense Red
.5/M 50% 50% Mahogany N/A N/A Mahogany
.35/GM 50% 30% Gold 20% Mahogany N/A Golden Mahogany
.1/A 50% 50% Ash N/A N/A Ash
.11/IA 50% 30% Ash 20% Ash N/A
.12/AV 50% 30% Ash 20% Violet N/A Ash Violet
.22/VV 50% 30% Violet 20% Violet N/A Intense Violet
.62/RV 50% 30% Red 20% Violet N/A Red Violet
.73/AG 50% 30% Blue/Violet 20% Gold N/A Coffee
.10/BB 50% 30% Ash 20% Natural N/A Blue Black
4-9 KEY CONSIDERATIONS: EuforaColor Natural Balance is COOL and the EuforaColor Tonal Contribution is vibrantly pigmented. This allows for easier control of warmth with rich results.
Shades form the EuforaColor Natural Series Families must be included in grey coverage formulas because of the combination of Natural Balance Level and Natural Tone (see “Grey Coverage” later in this chapter).
The EuforaColor Natural Series is uniquely designed to cover grey. The 70% Natural Balance Level provides an exceptional level of grey coverage while the 50% of Tone adds lasting hue (tonality) and shine.
The EuforaColor Intense Natural Series shifts Natural Balance to 70% for grey coverage and adds an additional 50% Tone to enhance pigmentation of resistant grey hair. The Intense Natural Series will appear ½ to 1 Level Darker than the Natural Series because the saturation of Natural Tone is increased to infuse more Natural pigment into the final color result.
CREATIVE PIGMENTS & INTENSIFIERS EuforaColor Creative Pigments and Intensifiers are power tools for tonal control and creative expression.
CREATIVE PIGMENTS An oxidative artistic color tool provides customized formulation to enhance or neutralize specific tones. Creative Pigments offer tremendous control and therefore only a small amount should be added to the formula. A little goes a long way with this artistic tool.
INTENSIFIERS A combination of oxidative and direct dyes. EuforaColor Intensifiers are used to “amp” up color or create a permanent fashion shade.
4-10 CREATIVE PIGMENTS & INTENSIFIERS CHART NOTE: The portion of the formula that is is Creative Pigment or Intensifier must include a mixing ratio of 1:2.
Example: If you add 10g of red intensifier you must add 20g of developer. If you are only adding a “Chocolate Chip”… no additional developer beyond the standard mixing ratio required.
Creative Pigments/Intensifiers Chart
CREATIVE PIGMENT & EFFECT INTENSIFIER TONE
Blue Creative Pigment Neutralizes orange underlying pigment
Green Creative Pigment Neutralizes red underlying pigment
Yellow Creative Pigment Neutralizes violet pigment in hair color, allowing the other pigments to be more reflective
Purple Creative Pigment Neutralizes yellow underlying pigment
Red Intensifier Amplifies any red color
Copper Intensifier Amplifies any red or violet copper hair color
Violet Intensifier Amplifies any red or violet hair color
Soft lilac tone at Level 10. Neutralizes yellow at Level 9. Lilac Toner Lilac Toner is Low Ammonia for deeper penetration into the cortex with less fadeage and “warming up” between salon visits. Lilac Toner will lift natural melanin, do not use to tone highlights when the base is virgin hair.
SUPER LIGHTENERS EuforaColor Super Lighteners are a series of low ammonia, permanent cream color that provide high lift lightening while depositing pigment for toning in a single process. It is possible to lift up to 4 levels while controlling tone to minimize warmth for superior tonal control. The Super Lightener Series is for areas of the hair that do not contain artificial pigment. The starting level should never be darker than a Natural Level 7. Using a Super Lift Color on hair darker than Natural Level 7 will result in losing control of the underlying pigment. Remember starting at a Natural Level 6 and desiring a Level 10 is 5 levels of lift. Always consider using No Ammonia in with your Super Lighteners to create a Hybrid formula. 2-5 grams of a 6.01 or 8.11 will add considerable control to underlying pigment without disrupting the lifting action of the Super Lightener.
4-11 Super Lightener Series
Two High Lift Shades: 1) Low Ammonia 10.1/10A – High Lift Ash Blonde 2) Low Ammonia 10.12/10AV – High Lift Ash Violet
Three Ultra Light Shades (provide 4 to 5 levels of lift starting at Natural Level 7): 1) Low Ammonia 12.0/12N – Ultra Light Natural Blonde 2) Low Ammonia 12.11/12AA – Ultra Light Intense Ash Blonde 3) Low Ammonia 12.12/12AV – Ultra Light Ash Violet Blonde
USE INSTRUCTIONS:
• 1:2 Mixing Ratio with 30 or 40 volume developer recommended. • 40 volume developer needed when lifting from Natural Level 7. • Timing is 45-50 minutes for 30 volume developer. • Timing is 55-60 minutes for 40 volume developer. • Check every 15 minutes during processing. • Reduce timing for chemically relaxed hair and use 20 volume developer. • Not recommended for use on previously bleached hair Levels 9 and 10.
Levels of Lift The High Lift Series will lift up to 3-4 levels. The Ultra Light Series will lift up to 4 levels. Add Clear Boost/Lift to add up to 1 additional level of lift. 30 volume developer should be used for up to 3 levels of lift. 40 volume developer should be used for up to 4 levels of lift.
Retouch Maintenance For maintenance, High Lift and Ultra Light shades should be applied only to new-growth virgin hair. Overlapping previously lightened hair may create a dull tonal quality. If mid- shaft and ends require a refresh, use a No Ammonia Color formula. If a color refresh is not necessary, coat the ends with one of the Beautifying Elixirs conditioners for protection and conditioning.
CLEAR BOOSTER LIFT & CLEAR SHINE/DILUTE EuforaColor Clear Booster Lift and Clear Shine Dilute provide colorists with the artistic tools necessary to customize formulas that will impact final results.
EuforaColor Low Ammonia Clear Booster Lift Adjust lightness within the chosen level or provide lift without tonal deposit.
• Mix 50% of the total color formula with Clear Booster Lift to 1.5 parts developer (1:1.5) to increase lift up to 1 level.
• When using in combination with High Lift colors or Super Lightener formulas, add up to 50% Clear Boost Lift into the total color formula with 2 parts of developer (1:2) to achieve 4 levels of lift in coarse or resistant hair, and 5 levels of lift in normal and fine hair.
• Can be used on artificially colored hair to lift through one level of color or as a gentle color remover.
• Can be used on its own on virgin hair with all developers, to create an on tone natural highlight with up to 4 levels of lift.
4-12 EuforaColor No-Ammonia Clear Shine/Dilute Diffuses color formula, resulting in up to one shade lighter. Also works as a permanent shine enhancer for end results.
• Mix 25% to 50% of a color formula with Clear Shine/Dilute to 1.5 parts developer (1:1.5) to adjust color level and tone down unwanted sharpness (50% Clear Shine/Dilute will dilute the shade by 1 level allowing it to reflect 1 level lighter).
• Mix 50% Clear Shine/Dilute with No Ammonia formula to 2 parts 7 Volume Developer (1:2) to gloss/tone hair. Process for 20 minutes.
• Mix 1 part Clear Shine/Dilute with 2 parts 7 Volume Developer (1:2) for a radiant shine gloss. Process for 20 minutes.
UNIVERSAL CREAM DEVELOPER The EuforaColor Universal Cream Developer family is designed to be precise in performance, and have exceptional versatility. With hair integrity in mind, buffering fatty acids and emollients from coconut and vegetable extracts work to support hair condition, softness and shine.
Available in 6 concentrations:
1) 7 Volume (2.1%)
2) 10 Volume (3%)
3) 15 Volume (4.5%)
4) 20 Volume (6%)
5) 30 Volume (9%)
6) 40 Volume (12%)
Universal Cream Developer Versatility EuforaColor Universal Cream Developer is a “creative agent” in the formulation and processing. Based on mixing ratio and timing, colorists can:
• Cover resistant grey hair. • Create Permanent coverage formulas. • Work with High-Lift tints. • Create Demi-Permanent formulations. • Mix 1:1 with each other to create new volumes (½ 20 vol + ½ 30 vol = 25 vol). • Demi-Gloss or Tone.
4-13 Universal Cream Developer Timing Color levels, developers and timing are integral parts of the successful color formulation and end result. The relationship between what is in the tube of color and the developers function and timing is critical to a colorists success. Understanding the correlation between lift and deposit is an important consideration when formulating for each salon guest.
Remember, you must first KNOW the rules of hair color before you can ADJUST them. Here are the general guidelines:
7 Volume (2.1%) = 7 minutes to open the cuticle and create lift, and 15 to 20 minutes to fix the pigment into the hair – Total processing time: 22 to 27 minutes (20 minutes to tone).
10 Volume (3%) = 10 minutes to open the cuticle and create lift, and 15 to 20 minutes to fix the pigment into the hair – Total processing time: 25 to 30 minutes.
15 Volume (4.5%) = 15 minutes to open the cuticle and create lift, and 15 to 20 minutes to fix the pigment into the hair – Total processing time: 30 to 35 minutes.
20 Volume (6%) = 20 minutes to open the cuticle and create lift, and 15 to 20 minutes to fix the pigment into the hair – Total processing time: 35 to 40 minutes.
30 Volume (9%) = 30 minutes to open the cuticle and create lift, and 15 to 20 minutes to fix the pigment into the hair – Total processing time: 45 to 50 minutes.
40 Volume (12%) = 40 minutes to open the cuticle and create lift, and 15 to 20 minutes to fix the pigment into the hair – Total processing time: 55 to 60 minutes.
An easy way to remember these rules is to match the number of minutes to open the cuticle and create lift with the volume of the developer (e.g. 20 Volume = 20 minutes), and then add 15 to 20 minutes to your volume level number.
TONING SOLUTION DEVELOPER The EuforaColor Toning Solution Developer is designed for use with No Ammonia Shades to tone pre-lightened hair and refresh existing color without lifting natural base.
• 5 Volume (1.5%) Ideal for bottle application, creating options for all hair types with softer results.
• Pre-measure Toning Solution Developer into application bottle prior to adding chosen shade formula. Shake vigorously to blend and apply to towel dried hair. Process up to 20 minutes, rinse thoroughly and seal with Color Elixir Professional Sealer (Step 2)
• Add 8 to 10 drops COLOR CONTROL to thicken formula when application with a bowl and brush is desired.
4-14 Exceptional Tools EuforaColor features an army of tools to help every colorist achieve their best.
EuforaColor Scale ALWAYS measure color formulas for precise and predictable results. The EuforaColor scale can be set to measure in ounces or grams.
EuforaColor Bowl & Applicator Brushes The EuforaColor Tint Bowl is deep enough for control and has a wide base to sit securely on any surface.
The three EuforaColor Applicator Brushes provide excellent control and saturation during color application. The Silicone Brushes are an excellent addition to any colorists tool kit.
EuforaColor Application Bottle Designed to be used with Toning Solution Developer.
EuforaColor Key The perfect tool to get every drop of color from the tube!
EuforaColor PATCH TEST A thorough patch test should always be conducted on new color guests, and when an existing repeat guest experiences sensitivity or health changes.
• Mix a small amount of the darkest formula that will be used in the color service.
• Apply formula directly to a clean dry area behind the ear or in the bend of the forearm at the elbow on the guest.
• Apply three layers and let dry.
• Do not wash the area for 48 hours.
• If no redness or irritation occurs after 48 hours, mark the guest salon record with the results and proceed with the service.
4-15 EuforaColor STRAND TEST A strand test should be conducted any time a colorist is working with a new guest or creating a dramatic change to an existing guests’ hair color. This step is critical as it will identify any potential issues with the hair during a regular color process. Many factors, such as metallic dye or medication changes, can alter final results. • Divide a ½ inch square section of hair at the bottom part of the crown and clip surrounding hair out of the way.
• Mix a small amount of the formula intended for use, taking special care to use a reduced total amount of the exact mixing ratio being use for the overall service.
• Place a foil or plastic wrap barrier between the test strand and other hair pined out of the way.
• Fully saturate the test strand with the mixed formula.
• Check the test strand every 5 minutes up to the full processing time.
• Change formula if needed; record final results and any formulation changes needed on the guest salon record.
EUFORACOLOR ALOELITE™ LIGHTENERS EuforaColor offers two lightening options. Each are power-tools for colorists, providing flexibility and artistic freedom for any lightening service.
AloeLite Blue Bleaching Pods An innovative non-swelling decolorizer option formulated in spill proof 10g/.35oz. individual pods designed for perfect portioning with every service. The proprietary Blue Bleaching Pods eliminate scooping and dust. The pre-portioned Blue Bleaching Pods allow for accurate mixing and help eliminate waste.
The AloeLite Blue Bleaching Pod material has moisturizing and conditioning properties, and may break down slowly when mixed with EuforaColor Universal Cream Developer (particularly in colder temperatures). Undissolved residual pod material in a formula can be used in the service, or scooped out with the end of a color brush and discarded.
AloeLite Cream Lightener A companion to powdered lightener with a cream consistency that is perfect for stay-put performance and application ease. AloeLite Cream Lightener is mineral oil based and therefore the ideal tool to gently remove direct dye from previously lightened hair.
4-16 AloeLite Benefits Contains Aloe for nourishment and hydration to stabilize the integrity of the hair. Provides up to 7 levels of immediate and controlled lift (6 with Cream Lightener). Neutralizes unwanted yellow tones and ensures excellent results with any lightening technique.
Balanced lifting power provides even lightening results.
Mixing Directions Using a non-metallic bowl, add desired Universal Cream Developer to AloeLite of choice at a 1:2 mixing ratio (Blue Bleaching Pods can take up to 5 minutes to soften). Mix vigorously with a brush or non-metallic whisk.
Blue Bleaching Pod Mixing Chart
MIXING EXAMPLE GENERAL USAGE GUIDELINE
1 Pod + 20g/.7oz. developer 1 Pod for partial lightening
2 Pods + 40g/1.4oz. developer 2 Pods for half head lightening
3 Pods + 60g/2.1oz. developer 3 Pods+ for full head lightening
Cream Lightener Mixing Chart
MIXING EXAMPLE GENERAL USAGE GUIDELINE
30g/1.05oz. total mix for 10g/.35oz. Lightener + 20g/.7oz. developer partial lightening
20g/.7oz. Lightener + 40g/1.4oz. developer 60g/2.11oz. total mix for half head lightening
30g/1.05oz. Lightener + 60g/2.1oz. developer 90g/3.17oz. total mix for full head lightening
4-17 EuforaColor ADDITIVES Guarding against irritation, protecting the integrity of the hair strand and creating thicker consistency for controlled color and lightener application are all guaranteed when colorists use the EuforaColor Additive systems.
Chemical Treatment Pre-Cleanse The purpose of a pre-chemical service cleanse extends beyond simply removing dirt and oil for the hair. Most tap water contains minerals and heavy metals that can react with the hydrogen peroxide in developer. Copper, foundfound inin mostmost taptap water,water, cancan buildbuild upup inin thethe hair and is the biggest offender when it comes to reaction and irritation. Oxidative service sensitivity is common with color services, so colorists should always pre-cleanse the hair and scalp prior to any chemical service. Doing so will reduce irritation and adverse reactions. Eufora offers two solutions to a Chemical Pre-Cleanse Service.
Traditional Chemical Pre-Cleanse with Urgent Repair Shampoo (for excessive build up)
Urgent Repair Shampoo is a daily clarifying and restorative healing treatment shampoo that provides healthy hair and scalp benefits. This gentle, non-drying formula thoroughly removes damaging buildup caused by products, metals, chemicals, minerals and environmental pollutants while improving the health of the hair and scalp. Gently pre-cleanse at the shampoo bowl with Urgent Repair Shampoo and rinse thoroughly.
Towel dry and proceed with color application.
Chemical Pre-Cleanse with COLOR PREP SPRAY (for standard pre-cleanse)
COLOR PREP SPRAY is a pH balanced, pre-chemical service treatment that contains chelating agents to bind heavy metals deposited into the hair and greatly reduces irritation during the oxidative process. COLOR PREP SPRAY is designed to solubilize dirt and oil, stabilize peroxide and help reduce post service irritation.
Directions for Use: • Spray generously at the scalp in 1” to 1.5” sub-sections. • Mist through mid-shaft and ends to lightly dampen hair. • Gently brush the hair to pull away dirt and contamination, then proceed with service.
4-18 Oxidative Service Bond Protection System There is a chemical reaction that occurs during any oxidative service that can cause damage to disulfide bonds in the hair. Traditional bond repair treatments were introduced to “repair damage” that had already occurred.
COLOR ELIXIR, with NAOPLEX™ Technology, a proprietary complex of supercharged natural antioxidants and vegetable proteins, protects bonds during the oxidative process of a chemical service and prevents damage caused by free radicals.
COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE – Step 1 • Used during professional chemical services. • Protects the integrity of the hair. • Prevents oxidative damage caused by harmful free radicals. • Intensifies pigment delivery into the hair.
Directions for Use: • For color with 7 to 40 Volume Developer and Lightener with 7 to 20 Volume Developer, add 1 pump (approximately 1.5 grams) per 30 grams of mixed formula. Stir to mix. • For Lightener with 30 or 40 Volume Developer, add 2 pumps (approximately 3 grams) per each 30 grams of mixed formula. Stir to mix. • For use with a Professional Waving System, add 1 pump (approximately 1.5 grams) directly into waving solution (and neutralizer). Replace lid on applicator and shake to mix.
COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL SEALER – Step 2 • Used after professional chemical services. • Seals the hair, for a vibrant silky finish. • Restores hair structure and repairs residual damage. • Helps prevent color fadeage. • Restores pH.
Directions for Use: • After chemical service, shampoo hair and rinse thoroughly. • Apply 3 – 5 pumps evenly through hair. • Leave on 3 – 5 minutes and rinse thoroughly. • For use with a Professional Waving System, add 1 pump of PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE and PROFESSIONAL SEALER (approximately 1.5 grams of each) directly into neutralizer. Replace lid on applicator and shake to mix.
COLOR ELIXIR as an In-Salon Restorative Treatment
• Shampoo hair and rinse thoroughly. • Combine 1 part PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE with 2 parts PROFESSIONAL SEALER and work through the hair from roots to ends. • Allow to penetrate for 7 – 10 minutes then rinse thoroughly.
4-19 Porosity Chart
POROSITY HAIR CAUSE HOW COLOR PRE-COLOR POST-COLOR CONDITION TAKES TREATMENT TREATEMENT
Stage 1 Pure virgin hair, Healthy hair, Formulate for Pre-cleanse with COLOR ELIXIR good elasticity, no chemical texture and COLOR PREP SPRAY PROFESSIONAL closed cuticle. treatments. less for – OR – Urgent Repair SEALER.
porosity. Shampoo. Best Eufora Haircare Pre-treat with Fortifi Regimen for their Keratin Repair. hair type. COLOR ELIXIRS Color Locking System PROFESSIONAL (Sculpture and ADDITIVE in color Illuminate). formula.
Stage 2 Slightly Minimal Must formulate Pre-cleanse with COLOR ELIXIR raised cuticle. chemical for regrowth COLOR PREP SPRAY PROFESSIONAL services. (natural hair) – OR – Urgent Repair SEALER. Still good and customize Shampoo. elasticity. Blow-dry Beautifying Elixirs every 2-3 for increased Pre-treat with Fortifi days. porosity on Keratin Repair. or the best Eufora mid-shaft Haircare Regimen for and ends. COLOR ELIXIR their hair type. PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE in Color Locking System color formula. (Sculpture and Illuminate).
Stage 3 Raised Cuticle, Daily blow-dry Careful Pre-cleanse with COLOR ELIXIR varying degrees and hot tools. consideration Urgent Repair PROFESSIONAL of porosity of all porosity Shampoo. SEALER. throughout the Repeated levels. hair strand. chemical If ends resemble Beautifying Elixirs services. Formulate new Stage 4, pre-treat Shampoo & growth, mid- ends with Urgent Conditioner, shaft and ends Repair Treatment. Beautifying Elixirs as it relates to Pre-treat with Fortifi Moisture Masque the porosity at Keratin Repair. (weekly) and each of these Elixir One. areas. COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL Color Locking System ADDITIVE in color (Sculpture and formula. Illuminate).
4-20 Porosity Chart Continued
POROSITY HAIR CAUSE HOW COLOR PRE-COLOR POST-COLOR CONDITION TAKES TREATMENT TREATEMENT
Stage 4 Raised cuticle Over-processed Overly exposed Pre-treat hair with COLOR ELIXIR through mid- chemically ends may Beautifying Elixirs PROFESSIONAL shaft and ends. treated hair. require color Shampoo and SEALER. priming with Conditioner. Loss of cuticle Chlorine warmth before COLOR ELIXIR in areas, poor damage. coloring. Pre-treat with Fortifi In-Salon Restorative elasticity. Keratin Repair. Treatment (use under At this stage, heat for 20 minutes, COLOR ELIXIR cool then rinse). you are PROFESSIONAL balancing ADDITIVE in color Take Home: outcome formula. Beautifying Elixirs against hair Moisture Masque, condition. Beautifying Elixirs Leave-In Repair Treatment and Elixir One. Recommend COLOR ELIXIRS In-Salon Treatments 2-3 weeks after color service. Color Locking System (Sculpture and Illuminate).
Stage 5 Complete loss of Excessive Recommend Pre-treat hair with COLOR ELIXIR cuticle layer in chemical COLOR ELIXIR Beautifying Elixirs In-Salon Restorative areas. services. In-Salon Shampoo and Treatment (use Treatment and Conditioner. under heat for 20 Breakage is Over-processed restorative at minutes, cool then obvious. lightening home products Beautifying Elixirs rinse). services. for two weeks Moisture Masque, prior to color. Beautifying Elixirs Take Home: Leave-In Repair Continue regimen of Treatment and Elixir Beautifying Elixirs One. Moisture Masque, Beautifying Elixirs Reassess condition Leave-In Repair of hair and ensure Treatment and Elixir expectation/ One. Outcomes are realistic and Recommend regular communicated to COLOR ELIXIR guest. In-Salon Treatments until significant May require a small restoration of hair is amount of Urgent apparent. Repair Treatment left on mid-shaft and Color Locking System ends, apply color on (Sculpture and top of treatment. Illuminate). Pre-treat with Fortifi . Keratin Repair. COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE in color formula.
4-21 Color Thickener Color thickening agents, traditionally, are formulated to work with either oxidative color OR direct dye. Color Thickener Color thickening agents, traditionally, are formulated to work with either oxidative color OR direct dye. COLOR CONTROL EuforaColor COLOR CONTROL is a universal thickener that works in lightener, oxidative A universal thickener that works in lightener, oxidative color and direct dye. The color and direct dye. The unique formula provides instant thickening of any color formula for unique formula provides instant thickening of any color formula for creative creative placement and reduces transference during processing to block bleeding. Coconut placement and reduces transference during processing to block bleeding. and Safflower Oils condition, moisturize and enhance shine. Aloe provides important Coconut and Safflower Oils condition, moisturize and enhance shine. Aloe nutrients, essential amino acids, moisture and legendary rejuvenation benefits necessary for provides important nutrients, essential amino acids, moisture and legendary optimum scalp and hair health. rejuvenation benefits necessary for optimum scalp and hair health. Directions for Use: Directions for Use: • Mix color formula • Mix color formula • Add 10 to 20 drops of COLOR CONTROL to mixed formula • Add 10 to 20 drops of COLOR CONTROL to mixed formula • Blend to thicken • Blend to thicken
Clean Skin Clean Skin The gentle, convenient and quick solution for removing unwanted color The gentle, convenient and quick solution for removing unwanted color stains from skin. These aloe infused wipes are non-irritating, biodegradable, stains from skin. These aloe infused wipes are non-irritating, biodegradable, convenient to use and economically sized to cleanse multiple areas of the convenient to use and economically sized to cleanse multiple areas of the skin with just one wipe. skin with just one wipe. Directions for Use: Directions for Use: • Pull single wipe out past containers serrated edge and tear off at • Pull single wipe out past containers serrated edge and tear off at perforation. perforation. • Apply Clean Skin wipe to stained area and gently ruib away color • Apply Clean Skin wipe to stained area and gently ruib away color and discard and discard • Keep top closed to prevent product from drying out. • Keep top closed to prevent product from drying out.
4-22
4-22 4-2 FORMULATING WITH EUFORACOLOR
Every successful color formulation begins with a thorough consultation and evaluation. Conducting a thorough consultation enables the colorist to identify specific formulation needs to achieve the optimum final result.
The EuforaColor Recommended Pre-Color Consultation Steps Stylists should thoroughly fill out the EuforaColor consultation form and keep a copy in their files. The guest should never fill out the consultation form independently as many of the topics require a conversation between the stylist and their guest.
a) MEDICAL HISTORY Colorists should ensure the guest that the health and medication conversation is confidential. All information is pertinent to formulation and is strictly requested for that purpose. The purpose of the Medical History segment is to understand any potential issues with the success of the color service. Many medications can affect the hair strand and the final color outcome. A thorough pre-cleanse treatment is vital prior to any color service, but especially important when the guest is on medication as minerals can build up in the hair strand.
Medical Questions: • Are there any general health conditions you would like me to know about before your color service? • What medications are you currently taking? • Do you have any allergies?
b) SPECIAL CONCERNS Are there any concerns the guest has that day about having their hair colored? This question is vital as it can help the colorist address any issues and reassure the guest about their color choices.
c) COLOR CONVERSATION – HAIR HISTORY Hair History will help the colorist know if there are special precautions of formulations to be considered.
Hair History Questions: • What is the date of the guests last color service? • What brand of color was used? (this is very important) • How long did the guests color stay vibrant before noticeable fading? • What would the guest like improved with their current color? • Does the guest have hard water at home? • Has the guest traveled recently? • Does the guest swim regularly in a chlorinated pool?
NEW GUEST CONVERSATION These questions help the colorist determine the natural undertone of a guests’ hair.
New Guest Questions: • What color was the guest as a child? • At what age did the guests hair begin to darken?
4-23 NEW GUEST EVALUATION • Determine category of undertone (Dark Brown, Warm Brown, Soft Brown, Red). • What is the starting base level? • Is the hair virgin or previously colored? • Patch Test Result.
The colorist should then briefly discuss the condition of the hair with the guest and any potential challenges this may present. If the hair previously colored, the stylist should include the state of the color. It is also important that the colorist identifies with the guest at this point if they are doing a color correction.
REPEAT GUEST The colorist must conduct a complete color consultation with every color service to determine if anything has changed with their guests’ hair, lifestyle or medical condition/medications since their last service. d) DESIRED OUTCOME
• Level: ______• Tone: ______
At this point, the colorist needs to communicate very clearly with each guest any challenges they see in obtaining their guests desired result. The colorist should use swatches for visual impact and give honest information they will need to understand the change requested (i.e. transitioning from blonde to red, making drastic changes, difficult color corrections, how existing hair condition and porosity will affect final outcome, etc.). It is important to always let each guest know exactly what to expect. e) DEPOSIT/LIFT
• Number of Deposit Levels: ____ • Number of Lift Levels: ______• Percentage of Grey: ______• Natural Family Choice: ______• Underlying Pigment: ______• Neutralize With: ______• Enhance With: ______• Developer Choice(s): ______• Special Effects: (Block Color: Zone 1,2,3,4, Highlights): ______
4-24 f) FORMULATION
• Formula 1: ______• Formula 2: ______• Formula 3: ______• Formula 4: ______
Include Low and No Ammonia identifiers (LA & NA), Developer, Measurement Grams and Timing. g) FOLLOW UP The colorist should give each guest a business card with instructions to call with any questions or concerns. They should also recommend a home care and styling regimen specific to their guests’ hair and service. Finally, the colorist should ask for referrals and pre-book their guests next reserved appointment.
THE BASIC RULES OF FORMULATION There are four basic rules for formulating hair color. To create beautiful professional color results, we must look at formulating a systematic approach.
Determine the natural base level you are starting with + the percentage of white hair • Use the natural swatches from the EuforaColor Swatch Book to determine the guest’s natural level of lightness or darkness. To do so, isolate a section of clean dry hair from the back crown, hold it up so light passes through the hair and compare it to the Natural (.0/N) swatches.
• Always adjust the formula for hair that is over 50% grey. Un-pigmented hair is considered “cool” in tone. Using cool colors on grey hair will look like incomplete coverage. For depth, add warmth or golden tones to formula for guests with 50% grey hair. Use Intense Naturals on hair that is “resistant.” Men’s grey blending is an exception to this rule and will be discussed later in this chapter.
Determine the desired level • Consult with the guest to determine if they wish to be lighter, darker or to stay the same level or just to change tone. • There are four achievable color result types with EuforaColor: 1) Lighten the natural hair 2) Darken the hair 3) Match existing natural level 4) Change tone
4-25 DETERMINE DESIRED TONE
Cool Hair Color • Cool hair colors have dominant blue, blue-green, blue-violet, red-violet, green or yellow-green hues. • Cool Hair Color is generally described as ash toned. • Cool tones absorb light and can appear darker than the level at which they are described.
Warm Hair Color • Warm hair colors have dominant red, red-orange, orange, yellow-orange and yellow hues. • Warm hair color can also be described as copper, auburn or gold. • Warm tones reflect light and may appear lighter than a natural or cool tone at the same level.
Adjusting for Underlying Pigment Ammonia based oxidative hair color decolorizes (or lightens) the hairs’ natural pigment to create the pigment base for the new hair color. The new cosmetic color pigments are deposited into the cortex on top of the underlying pigment to create the final tone.
• The combination of the cosmetic color pigments and the underlying pigment create the new hair color. • Understanding the exposed underlying pigment at each level and how to control its warmth is vital to successful color formulation. • The underlying pigment exposed is ALWAYS WARM and the color formula needs to be adjusted to accommodate for that warmth if a cool or neutral final result is desired. • There are only 3 actions that will take place when dealing with tonal adjustments: 1) Neutralize unwanted underlying pigment 2) Balance underlying pigment 3) Enhance underlying pigment
Determine the volume of developer needed to achieve desired lift and deposit • See Mixing Ratio Chart. • If lifting natural color, determine how many levels of lift are desired. This will indicate which developer strength to use (7, 10, 15, 20, 30 or 40). • Remember – the existing natural level of the hair is considered the FIRST level of lift.
EXAMPLE: three levels of lift need to occur if the guest is a Natural Level 6 and wants to be a Level 8. Lift through Level 6, then through Level 7 and into Level 8 for solid results.
• If you are going from a lighter level (without grey) to a darker level, 10 volume is recommended to get maximum deposit.
Remember to ALWAYS pre-cleanse hair prior to any color service with COLOR PREP SPRAY or Urgent Repair Shampoo.
4-26 MIXOLOGY The combination of developer and color controls the level of dye load (pigment), alkalizing agent and pH in a final formula. Using less Developer in a color formula increases the dye load, alkalizing agent, and raises the pH level. Using more developer in a formula dilutes the dye load, alkalizing agent, and lowers the pH level of the final formula.
The standard mixing ratio for EuforaColor is 1:1.5 (1 part color to 1.5 parts developer). This mixing ratio provides the recommended balance of dye load (pigment), alkalizing agent and pH for “normal” hair. This is for both Low and No Ammonia color (or a hybrid formula).
Here are a few exceptions: • Demi-Glossing or Toning – Use a No Ammonia formula with 7 or 10 volume developer at 1:2 (use one level lighter than new growth formula when refreshing mid-shaft and ends).
• High-Lift or Ultra Light shades – Recommended mixing ratio is 1:2. However, when formulating with a level 12, Ultra Light shade, mixing ratio can be adjusted up to 1:3.
MIXING RATIO The recommended mixing ratio for EuforaColor is 1:1.5 (one part EuforaColor to 1.5 parts Universal Cream Developer). That’s the rule.
Here’s are some exceptions to that rule:
LOW AMMONIA VOLUME MIXING TIMING RESULT AND NO AMMONIA RATIO FORMULATIONS
Demi-Permanent 5 & 7 Volume 1:2 Up to 20 Sheer deposit Glossing or Toning (1.5% & 2.1%) minutes only
Demi-Permanent 10 Volume 1:2 Up to 35 Deposit only (3%) minutes
4-27 EuforaColor Luminosity Chart
MIXING LOW NO HYBRID HYBRID REFLECTION/ RATIO AMMONIA AMMONIA 50%>LA 50%>NA RESULT
1:1 Yes No No Yes Less developer will increase opacity
1:1.5 Yes Yes Yes Yes Standard EuforaColor Mixing Ratio
1:2 Yes* Yes Yes* Yes* More developer will dilute opacity
1:3 Yes* Yes Yes* Yes* More developer will dilute opacity
* Do not use this mixing ratio with Low Ammonia unless lift is desired. Do not use as toner on highlighted hair where natural hair remains uncolored. Ammonia at ANY Mixing Ratio will create LIFT.
COLOR APPLICATION
All-Over Color Application (Virgin and Darkening Previously Colored Hair) • Start with towel dried hair and section into 4 quadrants. • Apply the color starting ½ inch off the scalp and down the mid-shaft, through the ends. • Process for 10 to 15 minutes depending on the level of developer used. • Remix a new color formulation and apply from the new growth area to the previous application. • Process for an additional 25-30 minutes. • Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Shampoo and condition/seal hair with COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL SEALER.
NOTE: For a more natural appearance, the formula at the mid-shaft and ends should be 1 level lighter than the formula used on new growth. This should be taken into consideration when formulating. The above description works if the hair has normal porosity. If the hair is resistant, it is advised that the colorist use a higher volume developer for the mid-shaft and ends compared to the new growth formula.
Color Retouch Application • Start with towel dried hair and section into 4 quadrants. • Apply color from the new growth area to the line of demarcation. • Let process.
4-28 While the regrowth is processing, the colorist will need to choose from the following options for mid-shaft and ends. This outline is for a monochromatic color formulation.
• Coat the remaining hair with conditioner. This will prevent transference during the final rinse and will protect the overly porous ends. • Mix up same formula at one level lighter than the new growth. Consider removing the .0 from the formula to avoid muddy ends. • Mix up same formula with a different level of developer (if using 20 volume on the new growth to lift and deposit, use 7 or 10 volume to tone/refresh the mid-shaft and ends). • Mix up same color formula with different developer ratio (1:2 instead of 1:1.5). • Use Clear Shine Dilute mixture for refreshing the hair. • Process to desired outcome. • Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Shampoo and condition/seal hair with COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL SEALER.
RULE OF THUMB:
• If missing vibrancy, use 7 volume 1:2. • If missing vibrancy and tone, use 10 vol 1:2. • If missing more than 1 level of depth, vibrancy, and tone, use 10 vol 1:1.5.
Super Lightener Virgin Application • Start with towel dried hair and section into 4 quadrants. • Starting at the mid-shaft, evenly and thoroughly apply Super Lightener formula through to the ends. • Allow to process adequately prior to new growth application. • Prepare the same formula, apply starting at the new growth area and then evenly and thoroughly work the Super Lightener formula down to the mid-shaft area.
TIP: Add a VERY SMALL amount of a Creative Pigment to the Super Lightener formula to help control the final blonde result. The Lilac Toner will neutralize yellow.
Toner Application • Use No Ammonia formula with 7 volume developer (1:2) when refreshing mid-shaft and ends. • Porosity changes in the mid-shaft and ends. Prepare the hair with Nourish Fortifi Keratin Repair and then apply the toner. • Process up to 20 minutes. • Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Shampoo and condition/seal hair with COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL SEALER.
4-29 EuforaColor Level Chart
Level Name Tone Exposed Neutralizing Enhancing Color Priming (Porous) When Lifting Base Base Based on 25g of Color
Lightest Pale Yellow Pale Violet 10 Natural Blonde Pale Gold None
Very Light Yellow Violet Gold 10.3/10G 9 Natural Blonde
Light Orange-Yellow Blue-Violet 8 Natural Blonde Gold-Copper 9.3/9G Medium Orange Blue Copper 8.3/8G 7 Natural Blonde
6 Dark Orange-Red Blue-Green Copper-Red 7.3/7G + 7.4/7C Natural Blonde Light Red-Orange Green-Blue Red-Copper 6.3/6G + 6.4/6C + 6.6/6R 5 Natural Brown Medium Red Green 4 Natural Brown Red 6.3/6G + 5.4/5C + 5.6/5R Dark 4.4/4C + 5.4/5C + 4.6/4R 3 Natural Brown Dark Red Dark Green Dark Red Darkest Darkest Red Darkest Green 4.4/4C + 4.6/4R 2 Natural Brown Darkest Red
1 Black None None None None
Note: Overly porous hair will require additional warm tones when color priming.
COLOR PRIMING When a guest requests their hair be darkened more than two levels from their existing previously lightened hair, the colorist must first fill the hair with the missing color pigments for the new level. This is referred to as Color Priming. As learned in Chapter 4 of this encyclopedia, natural pigment is removed from the hair during the lightening process in order to reach the desired light shade. Those pigments must be added back to the hair to create the desired richly deep new level. Remember, the natural melanin in hair is warm, so a warm tone must be added at one level lighter than the desired color to provide depth.
Example: The current pre-lightened hair is a Level 8 Light Natural Warm Blonde and the guest has requested to be a Level 5 Light Natural Brown:
• Color Prime the hair with Low Ammonia 6.03/6NG 7 or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (1:2) and process for 10-15 minutes. • Rinse and towel dry do not shampoo. • Apply final color formula using No Ammonia 5.0/5N with 7 or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (1:1.5) and process for 20-35 minutes.
4-30 When multiple levels of color must be replaced (more than 3 levels) you must Color Prime for every 2 layers of missing pigment.
Example: The current pre-lightened hair is a Level 9 Very Light Blonde and the guest has requested to be a Level 4 Medium Copper Brown:
• Color Prime the hair with equal parts No Ammonia 7.3/7G + 7.4/7G and 7 or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (1:2) and process for 10-15 minutes. • Rinse and towel dry hair. • Color Prime the hair (2nd layer) with Low Ammonia 5.3/5G + 5.4/5C + 5.6/5R (balance formula for desired reflective outcome) and 7 or 10 volume Universal Cream Developer (1:2) and process for 10-15 minutes. • Rinse and towel dry hair. • Apply final color formula using No Ammonia 4.4/4C with 7 or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (1:1.5) and process for 20-35 minutes.
GREY COVERAGE EuforaColor provides four Natural Series Families for unsurpassed Grey Coverage.
Unpigmented hair, more commonly known as grey hair, lacks warmth. Even when the desired outcome is a cool tone, if the guests’ hair is 50% grey (or greater), the colorist should add as little as 3 grams of a warm tone to the formula. This will replace the missing underlying pigment of the desired level, providing a fuller, richer final outcome. If warmth is not added, the final outcome may appear “hollow,” and coverage may be compromised. This is especially important when the color lives in Levels 8 and up.
Example: The underlying pigment at Level 8 is yellow-orange. With grey coverage, add up to 3 grams of 8.03/8NW for depth.
EuforaColor Natural Series
NATURAL SERIES IDENTIFIER
Natural .0/N (green/blue)
Natural Warm .03/NW (green/blue/gold)
Natural Ash .01/NA (blue/green)
Intense Natural .00/IN (green/blue)
4-31 Formulating for Grey Hair When lift or resistant grey coverage is required, formulate as follows:
• Use 50% or GREATER Low Ammonia Color. • Use 50% or LESS of No Ammonia Color. • Use 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (20 Volume when using the Intense Natural Series).
Always consider using a Hybrid Formulation over a Low Ammonia color on its own. Hybrid formulation provides superior results compared to Low Ammonia used on its own.
When deposit only (no lift) is required, formulate as follows:
• Use No Ammonia Color. • Use 15 Volume Universal Cream Developer.
GREY COVERAGE/BLENDING FORMULATION STEP-BY-STEP CHECK LIST:
Grey Coverage (25% to 50% grey) • Use 25% or greater of a Natural Family shade (.0/N, .01/NA, .03/NW) as the base formula. • Formulate the remaining formula with the desired tone.
Grey Coverage (over 50% grey) • Use 50% or greater of a Natural Family shade (.0/N, .01/NA, .03/NW) as the base formula. • Formulate the remaining formula with the desired tone.
Grey coverage (over 70%) • Use 50% or greater of a Natural Family shade (.0/N, .01/NA, .03/NW) as the base formula. • Drop base Natural Family shade one level.
Example: if the target level is 6, use a Natural Series Level 5 formula
• Formulate the desired tone at the target level.
Grey blending • Use No Ammonia Natural Ash (.01/NA) or Intense Ash (.11/AA) as the base formula. NOTE: Using No Ammonia color for Grey Blending prevents lift and exposed unwanted warmth during processing. • Use 7 or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (1:2).
Resistant Grey Solutions
Resistant Grey Coverage requires some degree of warmth • Using a Natural Warm (.03/NW) allows for natural warmth with control.
4-32 Decrease Mixing Ratio • 1:1 increases the concentration of pigment in the formula when using Low Ammonia Color and a Hybrid formula. • Increase timing to 45 minutes for maximum deposit. • Pre-Soften Resistant Grey Hair. • Use a Natural Warm shade (.03/NW) one level lighter then desired end result. • Apply to the area (do not use developer) and process for 15 minutes. • Wipe off pre-softening shade and apply desired formula directly over the previous application. • Process final formula for 35 minutes to ensure grey coverage.
Intense Natural Series (.00/IN) • This intensely-pigmented color series is specifically designed for resistant grey coverage. • Intense Natural shades are ½ level darker than the other Natural Series Shades.
Example: 4.00/4IN is ½ shade darker than 4.0/4N
Always use 20 vol. developer (Not designed to be used with higher developer than 20. This optimizes all pigments in this double pigment formula and may create excessive warmth). Increase developing time to 45 min.
TROUBLESHOOTING REDS
Reds are best created with the use of higher volume developer. The extra oxygenation from a higher volume developer allows for maximum pigment optimization.
THE MAXIMUM POTENTIAL OF RED SHADES:
Red Level 6 Copper Level 7 Gold Level 8
Reds Lacking Vibrancy Many times lackluster red tones are a result of overly porous or fine hair. This type of hair has a tendency to reject red/warm tones and can grab “darker and drabber” colors.
SOLUTIONS (Options): • Use the Copper family for improving the red tonality. • Always use No Ammonia color when depositing color back into hair (results will be richer and fuller with less fading). • Use Creative Pigments to enhance the color. • Use Blue or Purple Creative Pigment to provide a deeper richer tone. • Use Yellow Creative Pigment or Orange Intensifier to a red formula for a brighter and lighter looking red. • Use Low Ammonia Color and Developer to involve Underlying Pigment, anchoring in red tones and giving the support needed. • Pigment Layering is the application of a second color layer designed to seal in red. Pigment Layer with a second shade using 7 or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer at a 1:2 mixing ratio, process for 20 minutes to provide a “top coat” to lock down color.
4-33 Gold Bands Gold bands usually occur when there is more than ½ inch of regrowth from the previous color. Heat from the scalp will process the first half in of new growth lighter than the next half inch, causing “bands,” of color.
SOLUTION: • Apply color ½ inch away from the scalp up to the line of demarcation when there is a large regrowth area. • Allow color to develop 5 to 10 minutes. • Apply color to the scalp area and let process normally. • To avoid Gold Bands in the future, remind guests that High Lift colors require a 4-6 week maintenance schedule.
Hot Roots Hot Roots can be caused by improper application and formulation. During a new growth (virgin) application, heat from the scalp can cause red to develop brighter.
SOLUTIONS (Options): • Follow the Gold Band application solution if new growth is more than ½ inch. • Lower the Developer Volume level for the base (scalp) formula. • Add a Natural Warm (.03/NW) to the new growth (scalp) formula and a regular red formula for the mid-shaft and ends (this is especially true for grey coverage).
NOTE: Overly processed ends may not hold warmth, creating the illusion of Hot Roots on the healthier new growth area – even if the new growth area develops to the target shade.
Brassy Cast or Too Much Warmth A brassy cast can be the result of any of four issues:
1) Improper formula selection 2) Attempting to lighten from too dark of a base (therefore not lifting light enough to accept the desired toner) 3) Improper timing and/or application 4) Fading due to environmental factors
SOLUTION: • Use the same level or a darker level of Natural Ash (.01/NA) with 7 to 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer.
Green Cast A green cast can be the result of two issues:
1) Not adding enough Natural or Natural Warm to the formula when coloring porous grey or overly bleached hair 2) Failing to Color Prime when darkening more than two levels
SOLUTIONS (Options): • Create a warmer formula to prevent a greenish (or ash) result for the mid-shaft and ends. • Color Prime when dropping the level more than two levels.
“Muddy” Ends Muddy or dull ends can be alleviated by “cleaning off” the mid shaft and ends.
4-34 SOLUTIONS (Options): • Color wash the mid-shaft and ends with AloeLite™ Blue Bleaching Pods and water, 7 Volume or 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer until underlying pigment begins to be revealed. • Use a higher volume developer for the ends. • Use the target red tone selected without a natural color on the ends.
Example: If your formula is .0/N and .3/G for the base, refresh the mid-shaft and ends without the .0/N in the formula with 7 to 10 Volume Universal Cream Developer (do not use Natural in the formula)
MEN’S COLOR
Men’s color is a quickly growing service category in the salon. Most men who go to the salon for color services want natural looking color that covers/blends grey, doesn’t fade warm and grows out seamlessly. Men DON’T want color that fades to red or orange and don’t want color services that take too long.
EuforaColor is ideal for the male color client because the Micro Molecular Technology enables the colorist to customize their mixing ratio depending on the desired final result. The recommended grey coverage EuforaColor shades for men’s color services are:
• No Ammonia .01/NA Natural Ash Shades • No Ammonia .11/IA Intense Ash Shades
No Ammonia Shades are the perfect solution for men’s grey coverage and grey blending as there is minimal lift during processing so less underlying pigment is exposed.
EuforaColor offers the flexibility of coverage through an innovative use of mixing ratio, processing time and choice of the best Universal Cream Developer for perfect results.
Men’s Color Mixing Ratio & Timing Guide
PERMANENT COVERAGE
1:1.5 Mixing Ratio 15 Volume Up to 20 Minutes Universal Cream Developer
DEMI-PERMANENT COVERAGE (grey blending)
1:1.5 Mixing Ratio 10 Volume 10 Minutes Universal Cream Developer
COLOR GLOSSING (to neutralize yellow tone)
1:2 Mixing Ratio 7 Volume 10 Minutes Universal Cream Developer
4-35 COLOR REMOVAL
There are times when color needs to be removed without wanting to dramatically lighten the hair. This would occur if color has been over deposited or if there is remaining tone that needs to be removed (staining).
EuforaColor has three recommendations for color removal:
Color Wash: Use Blue Bleaching Pods to remove color that has been over pigmented or has faded with remaining tone.
1) Mix Blue Bleaching Pods with water for light stain removal. 2) Mix Blue Bleaching Pods with 7, 10 or 20 volume developer for excess color removal. 3) NEVER decolorize beyond pale yellow as the hair will not be able to receive color pigment for toning.
Low Ammonia Clear Booster Lift + 30 Volume Developer: This formula will provide ½ to 2 levels of lift depending on the pigment to be lifted. Generally, for over deposit, it will be able to lift 1 level.
4-3 EuforaColor DIRECT DYE TECHNOLOGY EuforaColor ARTISAN Direct Dye provides colorists with 12 direct dye shades creating the perfect artists pallet to innovate, imagine and create a masterpiece.
Sunflower Aloe Red Blue Sterling Crystal Yellow Green Rose Sky Silver Clear
Citrus Purple Pink Teal Cloud Black Orange Iris Peony Waters White
4-36 ARTISAN DIRECT DYE SHADES PROVIDE UNSURPASSED SHINE.
• Aloe Vera, rich in amino acids, provides nutrients, moisture and rejuvenation benefits. • Jojoba Oil soothes, smooths and moisturizes hair. • Beeswax provides lubrication and hydration. • Sunflower Oil is rich in antioxidants and Vitamin E for protection and wellness.
ARTISAN DIRECT DYE SHADES BLEND PERFECTLY.
• Micro Molecular Technology allows for complete compatibility between shades. • A heavy dye load in each tube provides unsurpassed coverage and brilliance.
ARTISAN DIRECT DYE SHADES HAVE A NEUTRAL PH.
• A neutral pH protects the integrity of the hair strand, promoting bolder coverage with reduced transference.
ARTISAN DIRECT DYE SHADES HAVE A POSITIVE IONIC CHARGE.
• Drawn to negative ionic sites in the hair for longer wear
Directions for Use
Artisan Shades provide optimum brilliance with EuforaColor direct dye technology. Artisan Shade vibrancy will last up to 12 shampoos when used harmoniously with the EuforaColor ELIXIR SYSTEM and Color Locking System.
Achieving Optimum Brilliance
Pre-Lighten to Level 9 – 10 for maximum vibrancy of • Purple Iris • Pink Peony • Blue Sky • Sterling Silver
Pre-Lighten to Level 8 for maximum vibrancy of • Sunflower Yellow • Citrus Orange • Aloe Green • Red Rose • Teal Waters • Cloud White can be used in any blend or as a toner to eliminate warm tones in blonde or grey hair • Crystal Clear can be used alone as a gloss, or can be mixed with other Artisan Shades to dilute vibrancy • Artisan Black can be used to create a level shift or darken any blended shade • All Artisan Shades can be used to “float” over mid-shaft and ends to refresh color and create shine
4-37 Artisan Application
• Pre-cleanse hair with Urgent Repair Shampoo. Rinse thoroughly, towel dry then blow dry 100%. • Add 1 pump (approximately 1.5 grams) of COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE (Step 1) for every 30 grams of Artisan Shade. • Section hair and saturate each section thoroughly with desired Artisan Shade (or Artisan Blend). • Process for 30 minutes (no heat required or recommended). • Rinse Thoroughly with warm water. • Apply 3 – 5 pumps COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL SEALER (Step 2) and work through the hair from root to ends. • Allow to penetrate for 7 – 10 minutes. • Rinse thoroughly and towel dry. • Apply the EuforaColor Locking System and work through hair. • Style as desired. • Do NOT use hot tools for 24 hours after application.
Tips and Tricks
• Do NOT condition hair prior to application – this will block negatively charged areas of the hair shaft. • Always prepare the hair with COLOR PREP SPRAY to remove positively charged metals. • Always use COLOR ELIXIR PROFESSIONAL ADDITIVE (Step 1) in your formula and PROFESSIONAL SEALER (Step 2) before the final rinse. • Adding COLOR CONTROL to a formula helps prevent excessive transference of color during processing. • Beautifying Serum helps block transference to “non-Artisan” hair during rinsing. • AloeLite Cream Lightener is recommended for removal (mix 1:2 with 7 to 20 volume Universal Cream Developer).
4-38 AloePlexTM Professional Waving System This Thioglycolic Acid and Ammonia Free waving system s strong enough to get the job done, yet gentle enough to protect every clients’ hair hailth. Available in normal and tinted formulas.
Key ingredients in the AloePlexTM Professional Waving System
• Panthenol for strength and shine. • Botanical Extracts of Chamomile, Rosemary, White Chestnut and Nettle for their proven benefits, promoting scalp and hair health. • Natural Oils for fragrance. • Pharmaceutical grade Aloe Vera Juice with 22 essential amino acids required for healthy skin rejuvenation and soothing
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