Nanban: Japanese Soul Food Buns Recently Popularised by Momofuku and Sometimes Called ‘Hirata Buns’

Buta kakuni manjū are Japan’s take on gua bao, the Taiwanese pork Nanban: Japanese Soul Food buns recently popularised by Momofuku and sometimes called ‘Hirata buns’. This nomenclature isn’t found in Japan; it actually comes from Masashi Hirata, the executive chef of Ippudo in New York. Pretty cheeky, Buta Kakuni Manju if you ask me, slapping your name on a dish that has been around for Taken from... aeons. Maybe I’ll start calling cheeseburgers ‘Anderson buns’. Anyway, Pork Belly Buns these aren’t exactly Japanese, but they are a common street snack in Nagasaki’s Chinatown, where they’re served directly out of big bamboo Nanban steamers, billowing their enticing aroma into the lantern-lit alleyways. by Tim Anderson I wanted to bring the Chinese roots of this dish to the fore, so I’ve used Yield: some aromatics in the simmering liquid that impart a captivating 4 servings complexity to the pork. They will also perfume your house and make it Ingredients: smell like your favourite Cantonese restaurant. For the pork belly: For the pork belly: the heat to medium-low – it should 2 tbsp vegetable oil Heat the vegetable oil in a deep simmer a little more than the initial braise, 500g pork belly, rind removed casserole. Brown the pork belly over a but only just. Let the liquid reduce, basting water, as required medium-high heat on all sides. Remove the meat often, until it’s syrupy, then add 1 onion, cut into quarters the meat and drain the fat from the pan. the soy sauce, and reduce a little more. 2 cloves garlic Return the pan to the heat and put the Be patient here – it will take a good 30— Publisher: Vintage 10g ginger, sliced pork back in. Cover with water and add 40 minutes to reduce. Don’t be tempted ISBN: 9780224098908 2 star anise the onion, garlic, ginger, star anise, bay to turn the heat up, as this will make the Hardback 2 bay leaves leaves and cinnamon. You need to keep meat go dry. The pork is done when it’s 1 stick (4-5cm) cinnamon the pork submerged in the cooking liquid; coated in a sticky dark brown glaze. This Photography © Paul Winch- 300ml dashi I put a metal bowl weighted down with is even better if you leave the pork in its Furness 30ml mirin a bottle of water on top of the meat in glaze in the fridge overnight; it’s like a sort 1 tbsp caster sugar the pan. Bring the liquid to the boil, and of post-marinade. But it takes a fair bit of 30ml soy sauce – use a really rich- then reduce the heat to a bare simmer; it willpower not to indulge immediately! flavoured one, like tamari, koikuchi or even Save on your reading – collect kicap manis should only just be bubbling. Simmer for 2 points with your Waterstones hours, topping up with water if necessary. To serve: Card when you buy this book, To serve: The pork should be quite soft, but not Steam the buns in a steamer basket lined available in our bookshops and 8-10 plain buns, sliced, for steaming falling apart. online at Waterstones.com. with baking paper, or in a very hot oven (check your Chinese grocer’s freezer section – they will be labeled mantou or Remove the pork and drain off the with a tray of boiling water placed at the ‘doubled slice’) cooking liquid (hold on to it if you want bottom. Gently reheat the buta kakuni ½ leek, julienned to – it’s a pretty good stock base). Clean in its own glaze. Stuff the pork into the 60ml hoisin sauce the pan, and pour in the dashi, mirin and buns along with the leek, hoisin sauce, ½ cucumber, thinly sliced sugar. Bring the liquid to the boil. Slice the cucumber and a thin spread of mustard, if hot mustard, to taste (optional) pork belly into chunks, about 10—15mm you like. You can keep these nice and hot thick. Add these to the dashi and reduce in the steamer until ready to serve. For more recipe cards visit Waterstonescard.com.

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