LAUDER EXEC MOVES/2 NEW HEAD AT CALVIN KLEIN JEANS/11 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ FRIDAYDaily Newspaper • November 2, 2007 • $2.00 Beauty Fantasy Island Tommy Hilfi ger is singing a new tune — one designed for a refi ned lady — with Dreaming, a new fragrance he will launch in February. The upscale scent will be available in about 1,200 U.S. department stores and could do $10 million at retail in the U.S. in its fi rst year on counter. For more, see page 4.

Joining the Rush: New York & Co. Latest Chain to Launch Beauty By Pete Born on Nov. 15 called products for Gap Inc. and ew York & Company Inc. is City Beauty, which is the fragrance licensee Nthe latest specialty apparel was developed with for Quiksilver. When those retailer climbing onto the beauty Inter Parfums Inc., initiatives are added to bandwagon. the same company the fragrance and bath The company will launch a line that produces line recently unveiled by of bath and body care products personal care See New, Page 4 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY MEGAN MCINTYRE GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007 WWD.COM Lauder Fills Spots Left by Robinson

By Julie Naughton Management, makeup artistry, also named Jin Chung as vice artist research and online com- president and creative director WWDFRIDAY and Pete Born merce, helping to more than of Prescriptives, assuming some Beauty quadruple the brand’s net sales. duties previously handled by Tim ohn Demsey, group president Earlier, Geerlings was senior Convery, who left the company. GENERAL Jat the Estée Lauder Cos., has vice president of marketing for Chung will continue in her du- New York & Co. will launch a line of bath and body care products on Nov. tapped two longtime Lauder Christian Dior Perfumes in the ties at the Sean John Fragrances 15 called “City Beauty,” which was developed with Inter Parfums Inc. executives to head the Tom U.S. She began her career at division. “We are assembling a 1 Ford Beauty and Prescriptives Prescriptives International, work- new team,” Demsey said. Estée Lauder Cos. group president John Demsey has picked two com- Worldwide businesses at the ing her way up to vice president Spellman, a longtime beauty 2 pany executives to head Tom Ford Beauty and Prescriptives. of marketing in 1988 and helping executive who has consulted Estée Lauder Cos. In the wake of his deal to sell his sportswear only to Macy’s, Tommy Joe Spellman has been to launch the brand in key inter- on the Tom Ford Beauty Brand Hilfi ger is also taking a new tack with his women’s fragrance business. named interim general man- national markets, Demsey said. — as well as the Estée Lauder, 4 ager for Tom Ford Beauty and Bobbi Brown, Sean John As part of Jo Malone’s aggressive retail expansion plan, the London- Caroline Geerlings will be se- Caroline Fragrances and Origins brands, 8 based fragrance manufacturer opened its fi rst boutique in Paris. nior vice president and gen- Geerlings among others — will lead the Beijing’s pollution problem is more annoyance than deterrent as retailers eral manager for Prescriptives Tom Ford Beauty brand until a Worldwide. Both appointments permanent general manager is 12 prepare for the 2008 Olympic Games with massive expansion. are effective Nov. 26. selected, Demsey said. Juicy Couture’s Gela Nash-Taylor is on an Asian tour to launch the WWD reported Tuesday that “Joe has been a consultant 12 brand’s fragrance there and open stores in Beijing and Kuala Lumpur. Andrea Robinson had resigned on Tom Ford Beauty from the as president of the Tom Ford fi rst day,” Demsey said. “He has Michele Cloutier has been promoted to brand president of Chico’s, a Beauty and Prescriptives brands a strong working relationship 21 new position, adding store sales and marketing responsibilities. after a 20-month tenure. with Tom and the fragrance Classifi ed Advertisements...... 23 “Andrea brought taste and houses we work with, and he is style [to the company] at a need- the perfect creative executive To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. ed point in time, and made a tre- to help keep the brand building [email protected], using the individual’s name. mendous contribution to the Tom its incredible momentum. Joe Ford Beauty and Prescriptives helped me out two years ago on WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT brands,” Demsey said Thursday, MAC [by acting as general man- ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 194, NO. 95. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one declining further comment. ager until Peter Lichtenthal, additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and No one else at Lauder now president of Bumble and three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance would discuss the reasons for bumble, was able to transition Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Robinson’s departure, nor would “Caroline is a well-seasoned into the position] and he is once Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive she. Her recruitment from marketing and business executive again helping us out.” Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail L’Oréal after nine years was seen who has spent time working inter- Spellman has demonstrated Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return as a major coup for Lauder given nationally and domestically for his dexterity in stepping into undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: Robinson’s reputation for creativ- the Estée Lauder Cos.,” Demsey leadership roles. He not only SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA ity and brand building at brands said. “She has been part of the led MAC for about 10 months 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit such as Helena Rubinstein and dynamic MAC team for the past in 2005, he also headed the www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new Ralph Lauren fragrances. eight years, and now she’s coming Lauder creative team for a year subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production As for her replacements, both home to the brand that she started and a half prior to the MAC gig. correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, Geerlings and Spellman have her career with. I feel that she is Spellman said his fi rst order of please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other strong backgrounds at Lauder, an excellent leader for the brand business will be to check out the Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. where brand managers oversee ev- — she is very well-respected both brand’s standing with retailers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA erything from the creative opera- inside and outside of this com- “What I understand is that 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, tions through to the fi nancial side. pany, and she brings maturity and it is ranking really high at Saks OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, Geerlings is senior vice presi- solid thinking to the brand.” [Fifth Avenue] and Neiman BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR dent of global marketing for Her biggest challenge, Marcus,” he said. Then his plan CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR MAC Cosmetics. During her ten- Demsey said, “is competing with is “to go into next year maximiz- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY ure at the makeup artist brand, herself [with her MAC projects ing what is working, getting off A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Geerlings has worked on a vs. her Prescriptives products].” of what isn’t and creating what number of its most talked-about There hasn’t been a deci- doesn’t exist but needs to.” launches, including the brand’s sion on Geerlings’ successor at Demsey declined comment girly Barbie makeup line this MAC Cosmetics, although an an- as to the level of progress in year. In her MAC role, Geerlings nouncement could come as soon the search for a permanent new also oversaw MAC New Launch as next week, Demsey said. He leader for Tom Ford Beauty. Quote of the Week “I’m not a designer and not, 7:L;HJ?I;C;DJ Dow Plunges 362 technically, a merchant. But I can

orried that there will be see the difference between a good Wan end to Fed interest rate cuts, investors fled the stock mar- product and a bad product.’’ H;7:J;N cent to close at 446.10. into “unexpected issues” that caused the outage. He did not  4FheZkYj_ed7ii_ijWdj Companies showing steep provide specifics on the duration of the outage or the cause. drops in stock values included The retailer said this week it would unveil several early bird Abercrombie & Fitch Co., down bargains, such as a laptop priced for less than $400, to go on JH?FFDO9 6.5 percent to $74.02; Aéropostale sale today.  4J[Y^d_YWb:[i_]d[h Inc., which was off 7.2 percent to $21.26, and Bebe Stores Inc., which fell 6 percent to $13.07. Outside the specialty channel, Kohl’s Inc. fell 3.4 percent to close Correction =ejejeZWoÊiMM:CWha[jfbWY[eh\Wi^_edYWh[[hi$Yec at $53.10, and Wal-Mart Stores Inc. Ecocert BASE certification requires at least 95 percent of the \eh`eXib_a[j^[i[WdZ^kdZh[Zie\ej^[heffehjkd_j_[i$ declined 2.6 percent to $44.03. One total ingredients to be of natural origin. For Ecocert “natural and of the few bright spots was Saks organic cosmetics” certification, at least 95 percent of the vegetal Inc., which is said to be the target of ingredients need to be certified organic, and at least 10 percent of an acquisition. The retailer ended the total ingredients have to be certified organic. This was incor- Thursday up 3.5 percent to $21.89. rect in a story on page 10, Oct. 26. — Arthur Zaczkiewicz © 2007 Estée Lauder Inc. Shop now at esteelauder.com at esteelauder.com Shop now

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Now your skin can have it all. *After using Resilience Lift Extreme Lotion for 4 weeks. 4 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007 The Beauty Report Tommy Hilfi ger Catches Scent of a Dream ommy Hilfiger’s fragrance business, “[Tommy’s brand] has had a revival,” The Dreaming ad. a bare Johannesson wrapped around a Tlike his apparel business, is embrac- said Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, president pillow, which will not include a scent- ing change. of Aramis and Designer Fragrances, the ed strip; a second single-page image In the wake of the designer’s decision division of Lauder that holds Hilfi ger’s of Johannesson standing with a sheet last week to sell his sportswear to Macy’s fragrance license. “Tommy has upgraded wrapped around her, which will include only, he’s also taking the opportunity to his apparel, and we want to do the same a sample of the scent, and a double-page try a new tack with his fragrance busi- for the fragrance.” ad showing Johannesson in bed, a strate- ness with a new women’s fragrance com- While the brand is seen as luxurious gically placed sheet hiding the naughty ing in February. and aspirational abroad, said Gabai- bits. A silhouette of the bottle is present While the designer’s scents have Pinsky, the brand needs to “reconnect” to in each of the ad images, which were long been on an all-American platform those characteristics in Hilfi ger’s home shot by Camilla Akrans at Pier 59 Studio — complete with well-scrubbed prep- country. “We believe we’ll accomplish at Chelsea Piers in Manhattan. py teens and twentysomethings frol- that with Dreaming,” she said, adding A national TV commercial, directed icking on the beach or on horseback that the concept is one that transcends by Cyril Guyot, is also planned for the — Hilfi ger’s latest, Dreaming, takes the Hilfi ger’s all-American approach. “This brand for holiday 2008. It features a song brand into new territory: sexy and a lit- is truly a global concept,” she said. $30; a 6.7-oz. body wash, $26; a roller- recorded especially for the campaign, tle more mature. Hilfi ger sees Dreaming as “the horse ball-lip gloss combo, $20, and a 3-gram “The Dreaming Song,” by Jason Rowe. “This is a sensuous and seductive which will draw the cart” in the next year. solid perfume pendant, $45. Dreaming will also be supported by a scent with an element of playfulness,” “The fragrance complements our new The collection will be available in dedicated Web site, dreamingaboutyou. said Hilfi ger, adding that the Dreaming apparel direction,” he said. “This new about 1,200 U.S. department store doors. com, which will feature music down- customer — an 18- to 30-year-old woman road has always been in my dreams, and As with all of Hilfi ger’s licensed products, loads and an interactive component with — is a little more sophisticated and now it’s really happening.” fragrance will continue to be sold to other dream expert Craig Webb. It will go live slightly less sporty than the teenage Dreaming, concocted by Trudi Loren, department stores in addition to Macy’s. in February 2008. target of many of his earlier scents. vice president of corporate fragrance National advertising, featuring A sampling campaign is also planned, He’s quick to add, though, that the big- development worldwide for Aramis and blonde model Mona Johannesson, breaks with a target of 30 million scented im- gest difference between the Tommy Girl Designer Fragrances, in cooperation in March fashion, beauty and lifestyle pressions. customer and the Dreaming customer is with Givaudan, has a top note of peach magazines. Hilfi ger calls the campaign While none of the executives would “her psyche.” skin; a heart of white hibiscus, tuberose “a throwback to icons from Hollywood’s discuss sales projections or advertising “[The process of] dreaming has an and freesia, and a drydown of white golden age,” citing Grace Kelly and spending, industry sources estimated that emotional power,” said Hilfi ger. “This woods and orris. Marilyn Monroe as inspirations. “[These Dreaming would do about $60 million fragrance taps into that power, no mat- The collection will include a 5-ml. actresses] have always been a source globally, with some $10 million expected ter what [the consumer’s] age.” parfum, priced at $125; and eaux de of inspiration for me, and Mona in this to be done in the U.S. The U.S. advertis- Tommy’s new twist is wholeheartedly parfum in 1-oz., 1.7-oz. and 3.4-oz. sizes, ad typifi es their style — sensuous, yet ing and promotional spending is expect- welcomed by his fragrance licensee, the priced at $35, $45 and $60, respectively. playful.” There are three iterations of ed to top $8 million in its fi rst year. Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. Ancillaries include a 6.7-oz. body lotion, the ad: a single-page version featuring — Julie Naughton

Part of the New York & Co. Dives Into Bath and Body new line. Continued from page one Beauty operations. did extensive research into the developed by International Ann Taylor, it is clear a growing “Our customer is spend- beauty market, even utilizing Flavors & Fragrances Inc. number of retail specialty chains ing money on these types of focus groups, and studied the The names and types of are eager to tap into the market products somewhere else and preferences of its customers. “We scent were meant as some- dominated by department stores we would like to get some of thought it was a natural exten- what sly monikers for differ- and chains such as Sephora and that business,” said Richard sion for us. We thought bath and ent neighborhoods. Downtown Bath & Body Works. P. Crystal, chairman and chief body would be a better direction. Darling has the scent of pas- Ironically, these apparel executive offi cer of New York We wanted to build a repeat busi- sion fruit, Fabulous on Fifth stores are adding beauty to their & Co. “We feel this could be a ness with a repeat customer.” contains wild orchid, Chelsea offerings even as one of the major business.” None of the executives would Chic has pomegranate, legendary apparel retailers — He added, “We have to treat comment on sales projections, Broadway Beauty has garde- Leslie Wexner’s Limited Brands it like it is positioned to be a but industry sources estimate nia, Uptown Angel contains Inc. — is exiting fashion to focus big business if we want it to be the new line could generate vanilla and Miss Manhattan is on personal care and beauty via successful.” $10 million to $15 million in re- marked by an apple note. its BBW and Victoria’s Secret Crystal said the company tail sales for the fi rst year. New The chain not only stud- million electronic addresses. York & Co. in total does about ied the market but also its News of the launch plans $1.2 billion annually. likely competition — notably seemed welcome on Wall Street. Asked if the initial launch Victoria’s Secret Beauty and Mark Montagna, retail analyst might lead to further forays into BBW — and it shows up in at CL King & Assoc., said that the market, such as venturing the pricing. Each item will be if the line generates $10 million into color cosmetics, Crystal re- priced at $8, but two units will to $15 million in fi rst-year retail plied, “We might do lip gloss.” be sold for $14 and three items sales, it would account for about “We’re just testing the wa- for $18. “We are a value-orient- 1 percent of the firm’s total ters,” added Leslie Goldmann- ed brand,” Crystal said. sales, and add a penny of earn- Franco, the company’s execu- The line will be rolled out ings per share. Unlike apparel, tive vice president and general to all of the chain’s 569 stores the bath and body line might be merchandise manager. across 44 states. In the top 100 less of a target for markdowns, “Our customer likes color,” doors, the collection will be mer- which could boost margins. “It said Crystal. According to Celia chandised with 14-foot-wide wall will give them some incremen- Rao Visconti, executive vice units, featuring two columns of tal sales — and everyone else, president of marketing, “Our tar- shelves divided by a large photo including Gap and Ann Taylor, get customers are fashion-con- mural of the products. The other has bath and body. Every little scious, value-sensitive women doors will have freestanding thing you can do to nudge sales between the ages of 25 and 45.” display units near the cash reg- helps,” said Montagna. From the name of the bath isters. Product portraits will be Eric Beder, retail analyst at and body collection to the pack- featured in windows and photos Brean Murray Carret & Co., said aging, City Beauty was cast in will be displayed on easels near bath and body products offer a the image of the New York- the entrance. nice add-on purchase and will based chain in order to echo As for promotion, Crystal inject excitement into New York its urban persona. Goldmann- said a product-oriented gift- & Co.’s accessories business, Franco pointed out that even the with-purchase will be used which, like its women’s apparel shapes of the bottles and jars to drive sales and during the sales, has been lagging. “Its cus- were meant to mimic the New launch in the second week tomer looks to New York & Co. York skyline. “We capitalized of this month, sales associ- to set the trends,” said Beder, on the architectural heritage of ates will wear City Beauty T- noting the average customer is New York City,” she said. shirts. Special shopping bags a woman 25 to 35 years old with The collection consists of also have been designed. Rao children. “I don’t think it will six different scents, each of Visconti said the chain’s more drive signifi cant traffi c, but that them expressed in fi ve prod- than six-million-customer da- customer wants convenience. ucts. There is a body mist, body tabase for direct mail will be [Beauty] is an impulse- and con- lotion, body scrub, hand and used to send out brochures and venience-driven purchase.” body cream and shower gel for e-mails will be sent over the — With contributions from each fl avor, all of which were store’s digital network of 3.8 Molly Prior WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007 5

WWD.COM Ashley Judd’s New Love: Beloved Liv Long and Prosper: Givenchy shley Judd is saying “I The do” to a new American A Beloved Launches Second Campaign with Tyler Beauty fragrance this ad. spring. ivenchy, which has used Liv Tyler jumping on the bed,” Tyler recalled. “That’s At a lunch held at the Gin its ads since 2003, is now releas- what this ad image reminds me of, that joy. Cosmopolitan Club in ing a second ad campaign featuring the It’s always fun to be spoiled!” Manhattan Thursday af- actress — who, for her part, couldn’t be And the public is responding. “We’re ternoon, the actress called more delighted. already seeing a great pickup from coun- the event “a blessed “It’s been an amazing partnership,” she tries who have begun running this ad,” event” and a break from said in a phone interview on Thursday. said Lorenzo. “This campaign echoes her latest film. Judd is Earlier in the day, the actress joined Liv’s elegance and her playfulness.” currently fi lming “Helen,” Linda Maiocco, vice president of mar- Givenchy will continue using Tyler for a drama about a talented keting for Parfums Givenchy, and Alain Very Irrésistible Givenchy for the fore- professor coming to terms Lorenzo, chief executive offi cer of Parfums seeable future, said Lorenzo. with clinical depression. Givenchy, for an hour-long personal ap- “There is such a good match between Judd plays the title role. pearance at Sephora in “I sometimes have to re- New York’s Times Square, mind myself that the char- where the actress signed acter is depressed — I am bottles of Very Irrésistible not,” said Judd. Givenchy Velvet Rose, the But she’s relishing the brand’s fall limited edition role. “I’m having an aston- fl anker. According to indus- ishing experience — it is try sources, Tyler’s appear- going unbelievably well,” ance garnered more than said Judd. “I come home $20,000 in sales. sated creatively every Tyler has been in night. But it is extraordi- Toronto shooting “The narily grueling. I have to Incredible Hulk” for the last drop into that dark place four months, a project that several times a day, every wrapped up Wednesday. day. It’s a lot of wear and “Everything is a bit of a tear on my nervous system, but I’m getting a lot of support and I have a blur right now,” Tyler said very healthy life, which is fundamental to my well-being. And I’m really with a laugh, who wrapped taking advantage of the healing arts in Vancouver [where “Helen” is being the fi lm mere hours before fi lmed].” She also credits her husband, Dario Franchitti, with “incredible stepping on a plane for the support.” Sephora appearance. “Ed Judd has been the face of the American Beauty brand, one of fi ve Norton wrote the screen- produced by the Estée Lauder Cos. BeautyBank division for Kohl’s play, and I played his side- Department Stores, since the brand’s introduction in October 2004. kick in life and love with a “The introduction of Beloved captures the romantic side of the wonderful group of actors. American Beauty brand,” said Jane Hudis, president of BeautyBank. “In It was the hardest shoot I’ve every aspect of the fragrance, from the juice to the packaging to Ashley, done in my entire life — we we tried to express that.” worked 18-hour days quite Beloved, concocted by Karyn Khoury, senior vice president of corpo- a lot, but it was incredibly rate fragrance development worldwide for the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. in fun.” Tyler even did some cooperation with International Flavors & Fragrances, has top notes of of her own stunts — many of golden apricot, calla lilies and bitter orange; a heart of tuberose petal, which involved harnesses. orange fl ower, orris and stephanotis, and a drydown of cottonwood, san- With a giggle, she said it dalwood and amber. actually led to a new nick- Beloved will be available in one size, 1.7 oz. for $39.50, exclusively at name: “Action Pants!” she Kohl’s beginning in March. said. The movie is due out The new Very Irrésistible Givenchy ad. National advertising featuring Judd will break in March fashion, beau- next year. ty and lifestyle magazines, said Julie Howard, senior vice president of Tyler’s fi rst campaign for Givenchy this line and Liv that it would be a mis- global marketing and brand development for BeautyBank. A major sam- was for the launch of Very Irrésistible take to change it,” he said. pling campaign, designed to distribute at least 300,000 vials on card, is Givenchy Eau de Toilette in 2003. That Speaking of working well, Maiocco also planned. campaign was shot by Mario Testino. noted that the four-year-old Very A personal appearance schedule hasn’t been released, although Judd has The new campaign, shot by Liz Collins in Irrésistible Givenchy franchise is up 25 done store appearances for her previous projects with American Beauty. Paris, features Tyler playfully jumping on percent in this quarter, and she expects While all involved declined to discuss sales fi gures, industry sources a bed in a short black Givenchy silk crepe the ad to have a continuing positive ef- estimated that Beloved would do about $5 million at retail in its fi rst year dress, hair fl ying everywhere. The shot is fect on those sales. on counter. in black and white, with a color shot of The Givenchy fragrance brand is cel- While celebrity fragrances are the trend du jour, Judd quashes any Very Irrésistible Givenchy Sensual eau ebrating its 50th anniversary this fall. thoughts that an Ashley Judd fragrance is in the works: “I love being with de parfum silhouetted at the lower right Tyler said now that her movie has American Beauty,” she said fi rmly. “I am very happy here. And I think that edge of the page. It is being released wrapped, she plans to spoil herself for a Beloved is very much a refl ection of the whimsical, romantic side of me. worldwide now and will continue to be few months. “I’m going to spend time with It suits me well.” introduced globally through yearend. my boy [her son, Milo] and go to Bliss and In addition to her fragrances with BeautyBank, Judd also sells a fashion “After I signed the contract nearly fi ve get a facial and try to take care of myself,” line through Goody’s Family Clothing, a moderate-priced apparel fi rm based years ago, I went to Paris for a meeting, and she said. She may have a budding musician in Knoxville, Tenn. She is also very active in philanthropic causes, and is walked into a gorgeous suite at Georges on her hands: “Milo plays the harmoni- global ambassador for YouthAIDS, an international organization promoting Cinq filled with all of these wonderful ca and [her husband, musician Royston AIDS prevention and treatment. things — Champagne, fl owers, fragrances, Langston] plays the guitar,” she said. — Julie Naughton a handbag — and I was so excited, I started — J.N.

headquarters on the Isle of Wight. It raw ingredients are displayed. There are also boasts stone tiles on the fl oor, aged also pegs on which customers can post Liz Earle Opens Store in London cedar wood shingles on the walls and handwritten notes about the brand. LONDON — Liz Earle, the Isle of Wight- on the Internet, through mail orders marble counter tops. “They tell us what they like and based treatment brand, has found a and on home shopping channels. The 1,000-square-foot space was de- what they want more of,” said Earle of pied-à-terre here. Industry sources estimate the store signed with the idea of time in mind. For the notice board system, which is also The 12-year-old line recently inaugu- could generate sales of 800,000 pounds, those in a hurry, products, which are or- an integral part of the brand’s Web site. rated a store on Duke of York Square, or nearly $1.7 million at current ex- ganized by type, are displayed on shelves “Most of the products we have come just off the fashionable King’s Road. change, in its fi rst year. to the right of the entrance. Touch-screen from customer demand.” “What we’ve tried to do here is bring the “The King’s Road has a fantastic mix computers are dotted among the shelves To the left of the entrance is a cash- brand to life,” said Liz Earle, who cofound- of people — we get tourists, destination so customers can research ingredients, and-wrap station, as well as an area de- ed the brand with Kim Buckland. “We want shoppers and locals,” said Kate Todd, the learn more about a particular item or get voted to sample- and travel-size products. to give it the touch and feel, the tangible brand’s marketing director. “We wanted product recommendations. As well as bolstering its own store solidness that it hasn’t had before.” to convert the space into a home-away- For those with more time on their count, Liz Earle is upping its U.K. retail The brand, which already has one from-home on the Duke of York Square.” hands, the back of the store has a ref- presence through retailer John Lewis. door on the Isle of Wight, had run a For that reason, the store’s back wall erence library and a television screen, The brand bowed in the department temporary store on the Duke of York features a large photograph of a British which may play recordings of Earle’s store chain last month and plans to roll Square before it was shuttered earlier fl ag against a seaside backdrop, which television appearances. To the left of that out nationally over the next year. this year and refurbished. It is also sold is the view visible from the company’s space is a sink and testing counter, where — Brid Costello 6 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007 The Beauty Report Alberto VO5 Puts Sexy Spin on Old Brand

By Andrea Nagel for that. So we tapped into this target very heavily,” he said. The effort is part of VO5’s estimated $25 million marketing effort to reposition usting off a 50-year-old brand to make it attractive to an entirely new (and young- itself in the hair care category. In January, the brand, which is owned by Alberto- Der) consumer can work, and using sex as the predominant lure, well, that can Culver of Melrose Park, Ill., repackaged and reformulated its shampoo and condi- almost ensure a victory. tioners, just enough so that they wouldn’t abandon their value shopper. In August, The VO5 hair care brand, which is value-priced and generally appeals to the 35- Extreme Style hit retailer shelves. Next month, VO5’s well-known hot oil treat- year-old and over crowd, has hit a sales surge in the wake of a restage of its hair ment will get new packaging to focus on the premium positioning of the product. care, styling and treatment items this year. Television ads for Extreme Style were created by Element 79 of Chicago and Data from Information Resources Inc. show that, for the most recent four-week speak to both genders. Thirty-second spots are airing on cable stations including period, sales of Alberto VO5 hair spray and spritz styl- MTV, VH1 and Fuse. Both the TV and print ads for ing products grew more than 7 percent, outpacing the Extreme Style Extreme Style speak rather frankly about sex — or at category, which gained just 2.5 percent. by VO5 print the very least, fooling around. One image shows a hip- VO5’s new styling line, Extreme Style, along with ads have a sexy ster guy aside a chic girl entering an elevator. Upon racy ads, began appearing in stores and magazines in image.image. exiting the elevator, both have mussed up hair, cloth- August. The line includes seven styling products and ing that is all asunder and smirks on their faces. is packaged with colorful graffi ti artwork to evoke an “This consumer is very ad-savvy. We needed to be urban feel. Products retail for $3.49 each. clever,” said Keen. “It may be offensive to some but Rob Keen, director of marketing for VO5, said the for our target that was pretty much nonexistent. We brand set out to establish a connection with a new were not pushing the needle too far. This is a new consumer earlier this year, particularly the 18- to consumer and they have to be talked at with a mes- 35-year-old crowd which is bent on expressing “in- sage they understand.” dividual style.” Keen joined the VO5 brand team in January, as “There’s a segment of consumers who want to ex- did Brent Shakeshaft, the new vice president of press individual style but there is no brand that stands U.S. hair care. Avon Adds to $580 Million Fund for Cause Unilever 3Q Profi ts Surge 37% NEW YORK — The Avon Foundation’s seventh annual Awards Celebration, which was held LONDON — Unilever said In both the quarter and the here Tuesday and raised $2 million, contained an eclectic guest list including everyone from Thursday third-quarter profits nine-month period sales were an Academy Award winner to a fashion legend, all joining together to celebrate leaders in the shot up 37 percent year-on-year up 1 percent at current exchange fight against breast cancer and domestic violence. to reach 1.07 billion euros, or and 4 percent at constant ex- Attendees — including Cynthia Rowley, Reebok International chief executive offi cer $1.47 billion at average exchange change, weighing in at 10.24 bil- Paul Harrington and Andrea Hyde, president of the U.S. divi- for the three-month period. lion euros, or $14.08 billion, and sion of French Connection — enjoyed a musical performance That performance was bol- 30.3 billion euros, or $40.74 bil- by Academy Award winner Jennifer Hudson, who also is the stered by a comparison with the lion, respectively. face of Avon’s Imari fragrance. year-earlier period, which was “Underlying sales growth of Andrea Jung, chairman and ceo of Avon, announced that impacted by a 300 million euro, 4.5 percent in the quarter and the $580 million that has been raised worldwide by the Avon or $382.5 million, provision for 5.3 percent in the first nine Foundation since its start, through events like the Walk Around compensation payments relating months was partly offset by the World for Breast Cancer, makes the company the largest cor- to the 2005 conversion of prefer- the effects of disposals and ex- porate supporter of the fi ght against breast cancer. ence shares. change rates,” Unilever said in On Tuesday evening, a total of six awards were bestowed For the fi rst nine months of the statement. upon a variety of individuals, organizations and corporations for 2007, profi ts spiked 17 percent “I feel comfortable about our their work with breast cancer and domestic violence. Winners at 3.27 billion euros, or $4.4 bil- longer-term goals — to deliver included Reebok, Chinese watch company Peace Mark and the lion at average exchange. an operating margin in excess of New York City Mayor’s Offi ce to Combat Domestic Violence. “Material costs continue to 15 percent by 2010 and organic “This evening is to let those who have battled breast cancer increase sharply, but we have growth in the 3 percent to 5 per- and those who have faced domestic violence know that they are been able to more than counter cent range along the way,” said not alone in their struggles,” said Jung, “and to celebrate the this over the fi rst nine months Jim Lawrence, the company’s women and men who share our commitment to eradicate breast through savings programs and chief fi nancial offi cer, during a cancer and end the cycle of violence.” Andrea Jung with Jennifer pricing actions,” the company teleconference Thursday. — Megan McIntyre Hudson and Carol Kurzig. said in a statement. — Brid Costello

Español and Essence magazines to honor 10 women who have America. Sherman, who took up the position Oct. 1, will also used education to make a difference in their communities. A continue to act as general manager of Darphin in the U.K. luncheon to honor these women took place Thursday at the New York Public Library. Maybelline New York spokeswomen FRENCH SALES: Beauty sales in France grew 3.6 percent SNIPPETS Danna Garcia, Tomiko Fraser, Erin Wasson and lifestyle expert from January to June, to reach 5.4 billion euros, or $7.2 Phillip Bloch attended the event to honor the winners. To get billion at average exchange for the period. That’s according L’OREAL SALUTES WOMEN: For the second year, L’Oréal Paris submissions, each of the magazines announced the contest in to the fi rst Multi-Channel Beauty Economic Outlook, a held its Women of Worth event, honoring 13 women across their September issues, asking women around the country to collaboration between IMS Health, Information Resources the country who volunteered for women in need within their submit their photo and inspirational story. A panel of judges Inc. and The NPD Group that publishes sales across all communities. “By honoring these women, we are well on from Maybelline and the magazines selected the 10 women, retail channels. Fifty-one percent of beauty product sales in our way to building a community of caring that reaches each of whom will receive a $10,000 grant donated to their France were generated in perfumeries, up 3.8 percent year- from woman to woman — coast to coast,” educational cause. Coverage of the women on-year. Representing 27.8 percent of total revenues, the said Carol Hamilton, president of L’Oréal will also appear in each magazine. mass market’s share of beauty sales grew 1.6 percent on- Paris. The 13 Women of Worth honorees year. Pharmacy sales represented 16 percent, a 6.5 percent were chosen from thousands of applicants NYGARD LICENSE: Fragrance marketer First rise, while parapharmacy sales made up the remaining 5.1 by L’Oréal employees, including Hamilton, American Brands has signed a fragrance percent of sales, a 3.6 percent increase. Run by analysts as well as Soledad O’Brien, CNN anchor licensing deal with Canadian sportswear from IMS, IRI and NPD, the Multi-Channel Beauty Economic and special correspondent, and Louisa fi rm Nygård. The agreement calls for First Outlook is meant to offer a better understanding of beauty Terry, co-executive director of The Ovarian American Brands to develop and market market trends, channel and segment growth, as well as give Cancer Research Fund. Each honoree scents under the House of Nygård moniker. insights into the leading players in each category, the fi rms received $2,500 on behalf of their nonprofi t Plans call for the fi rst scent, said in a statement. The outlook cause, plus a matching $2,500 monetary L’Oréal’s Carol a women’s fragrance called will be published twice yearly. donation in her name to The Ovarian Cancer Hamilton with Alia, to be launched next Research Fund, the 10-year charitable Karen Stark. month at Sears Canada. MURAD TAPS INT’L EXEC: Murad partner of L’Oréal Paris. Also at the event, In addition to Nygård, has appointed Jean Runel vice which was held Tuesday evening at the Time First American Brands president of its international Warner Center, L’Oréal Paris has named its Women of Worth holds fragrance licenses for the Bill Blass, business. Runel will spearhead National Honoree, Karen Stark. Stark was chosen because of Bongo, Corvette and Rampage brands. It also Murad’s growth in the European her work with The Hugs Project, a national organization that produces its own brand, called 100% Love. and Asian markets in order to provides handmade supplies for U.S. troops oversees. Stark Maybelline execs Karen Kendu (center) capitalize on the company’s will receive $25,000 for The HUGS Project from L’Oréal ORIGINS APPOINTMENT: Stephanie Sherman and Cheryl Vitali (second from right), domestic success. Murad is sold and Time Inc.’s Paul Caine (right) with Paris, which she founded in 2004. has been named general manager of Origins spokesmodels and image makers. in prestige salons and spas across for the U.K. and Ireland. She’s taking over the U.S., as well as specialty EDUCATE THE PEOPLE: For its third consecutive year, the role vacated by Maleka Dattu, who was recently named stores. Prior to joining Murad, Runel held international sales Maybelline New York has joined forces with People, People en senior vice president and general manager of Origins North positions at L’Oréal, Sebastian and DermaNew. WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007 7

WWD.COM Navarro Grows on Sedano’s Buy Alterna Broadens Base NEW YORK — One of the strongest marketers to the Upscale scents are the most popular at Navarro and in- With Natural Range Hispanic community just got even more potent. clude Bulgari priced at $29.99 for a 1.7- oz. eau de parfum Miami-based Navarro Discount Pharmacies signed spray and Fendi EDT 3.4 oz. for $21.99. Navarro manage- By Rachel Brown an agreement two weeks ago to acquire 11 stand-alone ment promises to open even splashier stores with a big- Sedano’s pharmacies. With the absorption of these stores, ger focus on beauty, according to executives. LOS ANGELES — Alterna is not letting the nat- Navarro fortifi es it position as the U.S.’ largest Hispanic- The chain is a strong testing ground for manufacturers ural products rage pass it by. owned pharmacy chain. Sedano’s is the second largest looking to launch products targeted at Hispanic custom- The Los Angeles-based professional hair and continues to operate 28 supermarkets. Navarro is ers. For example, several hair care companies gained a care company has reformulated its Hemp line proving that a regional stronghold foothold in Navarro before rolling with certifi ed organic botanicals and organic can compete with even the most vi- out to the rest of the country. hemp seed oil. The result is Hemp Organics, able national drug chains such as Because of its strong positioning which will launch next month with six prod- CVS and Walgreens. in beauty, sales of those items ex- ucts: repair shampoo, for $23; shine shampoo, With the purchase of the stores, ceed 10 percent of average store vol- $23; straight shampoo, $23; repair conditioner, Navarro becomes part of the ongoing ume, sources estimated. Navarro is $28; shine conditioner, $23, and straight condi- consolidation of the retail industry, also known for exceptional customer tioner, $23. which started with drugstore chains service, including trained beauty ad- “We wanted to give people looking for natu- buying others and then natural food chains snapping up visors in the cosmetics and fragrance department. ral, organic and vegan a luxury option,” said competitors. Now, merchants that control demograph- Beyond beauty, Navarro has kept up with industry Alterna chief executive offi cer Paul Johnson. ic groups are also combining for more power. Earlier trends including walk-in miniclinics. The chain’s con- “When you think about organic, natural or this year, Navarro received an investment from MBF nection to Miami’s population has helped it earn a 17 vegan, you think about Whole Foods. You don’t Healthcare Partners, which is also being earmarked for percent market share, ahead of national powers such as think of department stores. This group of peo- expansion of three to fi ve stores a year for the next sev- Walgreens and CVS. Navarro is run by the Navarro fam- ple wants both. We don’t want them to suffer.” eral years, according to the company. ily which founded it in Cuba in 1940 and reestablished Designed in-house, the packaging is bright Navarro will now have 32 stores with annual revenues the company in 1961 in Miami. The chain, which recently and clear: Straight items are housed in red of more than $350 million. The Sedano stores will operate opened a new distribution center, hopes to expand into bottles, shine products in orange and repair under the well-respected Navarro logo. Palm Beach, Tampa and Orlando. With expansion into products in yellow. The bottles are recyclable “Sedano’s Pharmacy has been a strong competitor new markets, Navarro also hopes to attract not only and made from postconsumer materials. “We and will be an outstanding partner,” Navarro’s chief ex- Latino consumers, but a crossover shopping base, as well. wanted to keep the heritage of Alterna, while ecutive offi cer Gabriel Navarro stated in a release. “The Earlier this year, Jose Navarro, former president of the making the packaging eco-friendly and attrac- acquisition of Sedano’s Pharmacy signifi cantly expands chain who now sits on the board, said he wants to build tive to our consumer,” explained Johnson. Navarro’s presence in the South Florida market and the stores in “any suitable places we can fi ne in Miami-Dade Although the line is sulfate-free, it is not locations of the pharmacies are a strong complement to or South Broward counties.” paraben-free — yet. However, Alterna plans our existing footprint.” Although Sedano’s had enter- The Navarro family is also getting more visible in the to eliminate all those preservatives from its tained other offers, management said the fi t with Navarro industry. Jose Navarro is very active on the National products starting next year. The removal of was the best for the company and its employees. Association of Chain Drug Stores’ Board of Directors and parabens is part of a yearlong effort to update Navarro stores average 25,000 square feet — much he testifi ed this week before the House subcommittee Alterna’s formulas. “It has been a process larger than traditional drugstores. The purchase is im- on small business concerning the Center for Medicare to take our products to the next level,” said portant to the beauty business because the chain is a and Medicaid Services competitive acquisition program Johnson. monumental player in beauty, especially fragrances. for certain Durable Medical Equipment Prosthetics, The Hemp Organics line builds on Alterna’s The fragrance counters in Navarro resemble depart- Orthotics and Supplies and its impact on small business. reputation for fi nding high-end, occasionally ment stores and are shopped more frequently in many At a time when the industry is shrinking, Navarro is an unusual ingredients to foster healthy hair. The cases than prestige counterparts by Hispanic consumers. example that regional players can still rule a market. brand’s Caviar Anti-Aging collection of prod- ucts, released last year, has generated publicity for the company (it was recently mentioned on ABC’s “The View”) and is now the top-selling line in Alterna’s portfolio. Quality ingredients come with a price. The Strange Invisible Perfumes Branching Out Hemp Organics products are about $3 more expensive than their predecessors. “I think NEW YORK — It could be a breakout of producer Jerry Bruckheimer and Strange Invisible Perfumes formu- people come to us for technology and when holiday season for niche fragrance has appeared in fi lms like “National lations is organic. For instance, they want the best,” said Johnson. “That is a marketer Strange Invisible Perfumes. Treasure,” “Bad Company” and the brand’s fragrances are pro- clientele that realizes that if you pay a little bit The firm recently launched a “Coyote Ugly,” eschews synthetic duced using a base of organic grape more, you get something better for your hair.” scent called Tropical Vial and si- and commercial grade ingredients alcohol. And Strange Invisible Therese Tolan, a senior category manager at multaneously introduced a collec- and preservatives for hydro-dis- Perfumes seeks organic essential Beauty.com, which introduced Alterna last spring, tion of eaux de parfum and a line of tilled botanicals like fl owers, plants, oils, or those derived from sustain- wasn’t concerned that the extra dollars would be bath and body care products. herbs and resins. She contends that ably grown ingredients, from its a problem for the Web site’s natural hair care Until now, the seven-year-old unlike “aggressive” methods of ex- suppliers. The fi rm, which uses a shoppers. “Price is not something I think our cus- brand, whose name is a reference tracting oils with pressure, steam or palette of more than 100 botanical tomers are concerned with. They really look into to Shakespeare’s “Antony and solvents like hexane and benzene, ingredients, makes its own extracts the ingredients,” she said. “In the case of Alterna, Cleopatra,” only produced those hydro-distillation allows oils to be of vanilla, saffron, frankincense, they are looking for hemp [seed] oil.” fragrances with the highest con- extracted in the gentlest way pos- opoponax and benzoin to ensure After 10 years in business, Alterna has centrations of essential oils — per- sible from more delicate plants. they are “natural,” or “green,” ac- spread its reach across the U.S., although its fumes — as its moniker suggests. Strange Invisible Perfumes’ new cording to Balahoutis. heaviest concentration remains on the West But the Tropical Vial fragrance is bath and body care line features Industry sources estimate the Coast, and to 35 nations outside the U.S. But one of six scents in lighter, eau de Invisible Body Lotion ($40) and Life Tropical Vial scent, the line of eaux Johnson feels that the organics line can help parfum concentrations. Changing Body Wash ($35). Each lo- de parfum and the new bath and the $30 million brand attract an audience pre- In addition to Tropical Vial, the tion and wash comes in an 8.5-oz. body products could combine to viously untapped. “We are in a very ‘green’ eau de parfum collection features fi ve bottle and is available generate $500,000 in fi rst- type of market,” he said. “If that opens us up existing scents: Moon Garden, Prima in one of four scents year retail sales. to more doors, then we will be successful with Ballerina, L’Invisible, Magazine Street — Sicilian Lemon, Wild While the brand’s this new launch.” and Fair Verona. Each 1.7-oz. eau de Orange, Egyptian Rose or highly limited distribu- Alterna, which is owned by San Francisco- parfum is priced at $135. Lavender Vetiver. tion network consists of based private equity firm TSG Consumer “This is a departure for us,” “We wanted to cre- a handful of doors, in- Partners, originally unveiled hemp products founder and Los Angeles native ate a line of body care cluding Barneys New around six years ago. Since then, Johnson Alexandra Balahoutis said in an that complimented the York locations here and said hemp has be- interview. She noted the existing [existing] fragrances,” in Los Angeles — as well come increasingly Alterna’s Strange Invisible Perfumes assort- said Balahoutis. “I didn’t as its two-year-old bou- mainstream, and Hemp ment is made up of 22 perfumes, want to do a cream that tique and perfumery on he predicted the Organics each priced at $185 for 0.25 oz. literally mirrored our Abbot Kinney Boulevard popularity of the line. The Tropical Vial scent “focuses fragrances. They are de- in Venice, Calif. — ingredient would on citrus notes,” said Balahoutis. signed to work well with Balahoutis said she is help the hemp “I like the idea of having this little some of the [existing] fra- “currently in talks with line’s sales double essence of the tropics or summer,” grances.” other retailers” to expand with the formula she added. She added that the lo- the brand’s distribution. renovation. Hemp In addition to Tropical Vial’s tions are designed to be The latest scent from At the Strange Invisible Organics products citrus accords, the scent features “simple, nourishing and Strange Invisible Perfumes boutique, one still contain the notes of mango, basil, botanical replenishing” and that the Perfumes. can create a custom scent previous items’ musk and jasmine. washes contain organic through the brand’s bespoke Enzymetherapy sys- Strange Invisible Perfumes bills virgin coconut oil and olive oil. service. The service, personal consul- tem meant to deliv- itself as a botanical perfumery. Balahoutis estimates 60 to 70 tation and all, is priced at $2,100. er nutrients to the Balahoutis, who is the stepdaughter percent of the ingredients used in — Matthew W. Evans hair and follicles. 8 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007

The HBA Report WWD.COM Jo Malone Plans for Expansion

PARIS — As part of Jo Malone’s aggressive retail expansion plan over the next sumer a clearer understanding of the brand,” said Case. few years, the London-based fragrance manufacturer, which is owned by the Estée According to industry sources, Paris’ Jo Malone freestanding store is expected Lauder Cos. Inc., opened its first freestanding boutique here on Tuesday. to bring in $2 million in fi rst-year retail sales. According to executives, the com- “The world is now discovering Jo Malone, and the early success of the brand pany has exceeded expectations over a two-week period by 30 percent. Case said in France gives us a great opportunity to grow Jo Malone around the world,” said the brand expects the Parisian Jo Malone store to be the top door across Europe Leonard Lauder, chairman of the Estée Lauder Cos., who attended the party for the outside the U.K. store opening this week. “People always say the hardest thing is to sell fragrances In the boutique, on Paris’ Rue Saint-Honoré, across the street from Colette, cus- to the French, but we’ve had a soft opening, for a few weeks, and the response has tomers can peruse the 18 fragrances in the Jo Malone product assortment that been wonderful.” includes everything from fragrances and bath and body products to candles. The Famed for its mixing-and-matching technique, the new store enjoyed an eas- company felt that by opening on the street they chose, they would have a competi- ier-than-expected debut. “The French got [fragrance tive advantage since it targets both local Parisians and combining] more quickly than the Americans,” added international travelers who frequent Colette. Maureen Case, president of specialty brands worldwide Jo Malone’s Customers can try products out either through a for the Estée Lauder Cos., which include Jo Malone, La Paris boutique. quick spray or a hand and arm massage done in a spe- Mer and Bobbi Brown. cially allocated fragrance bar area. The second fl oor The two-storied 1,290-square-foot store has the serves as a VIP space for celebrities, press events and brand’s signature vanilla-colored walls, black stone Jo Malone’s best customers. The boutique is the brand’s fl oors and wooden counters — a color scheme mirroring second in France, following a store in Cannes, which that of Jo Malone’s product packaging. bowed in May. “This is our way of making an impact in the European “We want to reproduce in our boutiques the feeling scene,” said Case. “Our home for Jo Malone has always of being in an apartment, of being at home,” said Sabine been in London, but any credibility in the fragrance Vénézia, Jo Malone France’s marketing director. area requires having an anchor in Paris.” Case added, “Jo Malone is a fragrance brand that’s Available in 127 specialty and department store about a modern English luxury and how it’s incorpo- doors, including Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, rated into one’s lifestyle. Fragrance is at the core, but and 15 freestanding stores globally ranging in size from it’s a gift-giving brand that’s about creating one’s signa- 500 to 1,200 square feet, the company hopes to further ture fragrance, which is best expressed in a freestand- expand its freestanding retail distribution both in ing arena.” the U.S. and internationally over the next few years. Another strategic element on which the company Available in nine countries, the company has plans to is focusing is educating consumers on the gift-giving open freestanding stores in Milan, Moscow and Geneva aspect of the Jo Malone brand, in the art of entertain- by next fall. Currently in the U.S. market, Jo Malone has ing, bath and decorating with scent. As part of this ini- four freestanding stores in three key cities, and the com- tiative, the company has established a gift concierge, pany has expansion plans to open about 15 stores in key where consumers can purchase products online or on U.S. cities over the course of the next three years. the telephone. “We’re growing from 20 to 25 percent across all mar- “We’d like to capitalize on the creation of gifts that fi t kets and have plans to continue growing our business as consumers and their consumer profi les,” said Case. we open freestanding boutiques to help bring the con- — Michelle Edgar and Ellen Groves Barbara Barry Heads Home Pure & Natural Gets an Update

nterior designer Barbara Barry s part of the brand’s relaunch initiative, Pure & Natural has repack- Select items from Idoesn’t want to just make Aaged and reformulated its personal care assortment, which is set to Barbara Barry. rooms look good this fall but also bow in food, drug and mass chains in February. to smell good, as she launches a With hypoallergenic and paraben-free products including body wash, home fragrance collection with liquid hand soap and bar soap, each of the nine products aims to be envi- fragrances inspired by the various ronmentally friendly. Packaging for the body wash and liquid hand soap rooms of a house. is biodegradable, while the bar soap is packaged in 100 percent postcon- “The home is my muse, and I sumer paper made from seeds. Ranging in price from $3.99 for liquid hand thought I could make the rooms soaps to $5.99 for body wash, the new products are available in three ingre- come to life by designing my home dient combinations: Almond Oil & Cherry Blossom, Rosemary & Mint and fragrance collection around the Grapefruit & Pomegranate. The Almond Oil & Cherry Blossom combination rooms of the house. Perfume is designed to moisturize, nourish and soothe skin; Rosemary & Mint, to was the answer,” said Barry, who cleanse and refresh skin, and Grapefruit & Pomegranate, to exfoliate and added that she worked closely renew the skin. with Laura Slatkin’s private label “With the growth of the natural trend, we decided the timing was right home fragrance manufacturing to give the brand a push, since it’s positioned between a natural and main- company Candela Group to pro- stream brand,” said Sami Myohanen, Pure & Natural brand manager. “We duce the collection. “As a designer wanted to fi nd ingredients that were natural and allowed us to stay within I have thought a lot about how a our price point.” room begins and also when a space Although executives wouldn’t comment, industry sources estimate feels fi nished. I love to think about fi rst-year sales from the nine items will bring in about $30 million in when a room comes alive with that retail sales. fourth dimension of fragrance Currently, the brand is sold in limited distribution in about 2,000 Wal- since scent bestows an intangible Mart and food stores. However, with the relaunch, the brand is looking to and sensual signature to a room.” expand its distribution in food, drug and mass channels. The company also Each of the four fragrances is looking into expanding internationally, said Myohanen. is inspired by a different room. Since the previous packaging Packaged in watercolor sketches of her furniture, the candles are designed to captured more of the hypoaller- last up to 45 hours. The living room scent is a fresh white fl oral blend of mimosa, genic look, Myohanen said the Pure & orange blossom, star jasmine and sandalwood notes. The bedroom candle is com- brand needed a more upscale look, Natural’s new posed of vanilla, nutmeg, ginger and cardamom notes. Each of the candles con- highlighting the natural ingredi- products. tains an additional item, depending on the room. For instance, the bedroom has a ents found in the products. linen spray, while the living room contains a room spray. To further the brand’s mission “I wanted the living room to have a more fl oral scent, while the powder room statement, “Nurture yourself and was meant to be more zesty and citrus, and the bedroom sweeter with more sen- the world around you,” the com- sual notes since it’s a private space,” said Barry, who added that the watercolor pany has partnered with organi- packaging speaks to the subtlety of the scents. zations sharing similar goals to Retailing at $48 per candle, the Barbara Barry Home Fragrance assortment help educate consumers on liv- is launching in Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus this month, with addi- ing a healthy lifestyle. As part of tional plans to expand in high-end furniture stores next spring. The items will the initiative, Pure & Natural will also be sold on e-commerce Web site shopbarbaraberry.com and through a toll- donate a minimum of $100,000 an- free number. nually to the World Wildlife Fund Industry sources estimate the new Barbara Barry Home Fragrance collection to demonstrate its commitment to will bring in about $3 million in fi rst-year retail sales. protect nature. — M.E. — M.E. BARRY PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; PURE & NATURAL BY THOMAS IANNACCONE BY JOHN AQUINO; PURE & NATURAL BARRY PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007 9 WWD.COM Remodeled French Connection Hits Mark in SoHo By Sharon Edelson NEW YORK — Six months after an electrical fire ripped through the French Connection flagship here, the 5,000-square-foot store has been remodeled based on a new prototype. The fl agship at 435 West Broadway in SoHo, the company’s highest-grossing U.S. store, is projected to do $10 million in sales in its fi rst year, said Stephen Marks, chief executive offi cer. French Connection’s worldwide volume is projected to be more than $600 million this year. Customers have been responding to the new design by spending — sales are 20 percent higher than projected, Marks said. “We’re absolutely thrilled,” he said, adding that the retailer has had a strong fall overall. Although French Connection is wholesaled to about 1,500 department and spe- cialty store doors, the company operates only 26 stores in this country, which leaves lots of opportunities, Marks said. “In the U.S., we’re on our way,” he said. “We’re doing extremely well [and that bodes well] for the future. We have plans to open more stores. To get up to 50 stores reasonably quickly wouldn’t be out of the box.” The redesigned French Marks declined to discuss specifi c locations. “We’ve got quite a few things we’re having Connection fl agship. PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY discussions on,” he said. “We’re already doing quite well in California, so we’ll certainly put more stores there. The stores will be strategically placed.” start a new store concept work, and others don’t work, and then you change them.” Management and other changes have encouraged the company to move forward. French Connection targets 18 to 30-year-olds. Prices range from logo T-shirts at $28 “We used to have a partner in the U.S. and we bought him out. Now we’re in total to $328 for a wool-polyester-acrylic coat. Jeans are $128, a satin stretch top is $128 and control and we feel good about that.” a dress with an all over sequin pattern is $198. The company will be introducing new product categories and beefi ng up others. The new design opens up the space by removing the walls behind windows to maxi- “You’ll see more accessories, more jewelry, a really intensive shoe range, watches and mize natural lighting and allow passersby to see directly into the store. The store has handbags,” Marks said. “For the next year they will be mainly in our own stores.” a modern feel with backlit seasonal images displayed on walls, clean streamlined fi x- The electrical fi re was caused by a short in an apartment above the store. Marks tures and mannequins with full hair and makeup treatment perched on white platforms. said he was unable to estimate the revenue lost during the shutdown. There is a rustic side to the store, as well, with exposed pipes, brick walls and open ceil- French Connection has already started rolling out the prototype in the U.K., but “this ings. Original wood from a whiskey barrel factory covers the fl oors, warming the space. is the best version of the new rollout so far,” Marks said. “Certain features when you “The store feels very comfortable, very intimate,” Marks said. “It’s not a big white box.”

A COSTUMED KARL: At Roberto Cavalli’s Halloween party at the aspirational tome — including Delphine and Reed Krakoff, Cipriani 42 Wednesday night, one woman came as Josephine whose home is included in the 400 pages — Bowles admitted Fashion Scoops Baker in the famous banana skirt. Another came as Marie his own apartment was “undisciplined.” “It’s very Cecil Beaton, Antoinette. Julia Restoin Roitfeld was a leopard, Tinsley very dense, very cluttered,” he said. Same goes for Calvin Klein JUICY OPENING: Duran Duran is about to get Juicy. The iconic Mortimer was an angel and the designer himself showed up designer Francisco Costa, whose Bellport, N.Y., home (or at rock band has teamed up with Juicy Couture (band member as Karl Lagerfeld. “I wanted to go as someone from the world least its outside) is featured in this issue of “Vogue Living.” John Taylor is married to Juicy co-founder Gela Nash-Taylor) of fashion,” he said with a shrug, after directing a slew of “I’m so happy they didn’t shoot inside,” he said, feigning to design a full wardrobe for their Broadway concert debut in well-wishers to kiss his hand, on which he wore a copy of the stress. “My house in Bellport is a mess. But my New York New York. The band will perform from tonight until Nov. 12 at French couturier’s fi ngerless glove. But if there’d been a prize apartment is very tailored.” the famed Ethel Barrymore Theater to for best costume, it would defi nitely support their new album, “Red Carpet have gone to Christine Schwarzman, the BIG SALE: The host committee for next week’s Fashion For Massacre.” They plan to play the entire wife of private equity honcho Stephen Action bash reads like a Who’s Who of young New York new album each night, a fi rst for the Schwarzman. With her husband out of fashion, including the likes of Jane Mayle, Charlotte Ronson, band. They will also play some of their town on business, she came outfi tted Adam Lippes and Shoshana Lowenstein. The benefi t, to take classic hits. “When putting together the as Victoria Beckham, complete with a place at The Rubin Museum of Art on Nov. 8, is in aid of Broadway show of ‘Red Carpet Massacre’ cardboard cutout of the former Spice Housing Works, and will feature a silent auction of clothes it was only natural that we would turn Girl’s soccer-playing hubby. “I got it on donated by such designers and brands as Marc Jacobs, Prada, to Juicy Couture,” Taylor said. “Due to the Internet for $70,” she said. “He’s Michael Kors, Narciso Rodriguez, Bottega Veneta, Diane von more than just osmosis; Simon [Le Bon], really good in bed. Although it’s always Furstenberg, Elie Tahari, Fendi and Giorgio Armani. Those who Nick [Rhodes] and myself have all had vertical or horizontal with him.” can’t make the gala, which will be hosted by Rashida Jones, a hand in making design suggestions need not fret. The designer sample sale will continue Nov. 9 for clothes they would like to wear and SINGING FOR SUPPER: Lenny Kravitz rocked to 11 at the Housing Works Chelsea Thrift Shop. Fashion for seeing their ideas realized. In attacking Cipriani Wall Street Tuesday night at Action raised $350,000 last year, and the aim is to bring that the costuming of the show we have the Cipriani Wall Street Concert Series number to $500,000 this year. had a hands-on approach, which is the benefi ting UNICEF and The Sarah way we like to work (like the good little Ferguson Foundation. Sean “Diddy” JEWELS FOR JOES: Evan Yurman welcomed pals Mary-Kate Olsen, renaissance boys we are). ‘Red Carpet Combs, Jeff Gordon, Roberto Cavalli, Mini Anden, Jacquetta Wheeler, Jeremy Piven and Kate Sumner to Massacre’ requires Maoist utility wear, Russell Simmons, Damon Dash and dinner and a concert by The Bravery at the Paramour Mansion punk-savant/bohemian and louche Giuseppe Cipriani were all in attendance, in L.A.’s Silver Lake last week to celebrate the launch of his satins... all in one evening.” For opening which was hosted by Lucy Liu, who’s men’s jewelry and watch collection for David Yurman. Like his night, Ashley Olsen, Donald Trump, Padma Roberto Cavalli as served as an ambassador for UNICEF the dad, he fi nds inspiration everywhere. “I get inspired by myriad Lakshmi, Moby and Natasha Bedingfi eld Karl Lagerfeld. past four years. A native New Yorker, Liu things: personal interests, rare stones, different textures.…I are expected to attend. has been busy fi lming in the city for her keep an open mind and look for the unexpected in my new ABC series “Cashmere Mafi a,” as everyday life,” he said. Yurman chose to host an event in Los OSSIE CLARK’S NEW LIFE: The house well as three fi lms, including “Watching Angeles because of the support of the local community — and of Ossie Clark is back in action. the Detectives” with Cillian Murphy, a because Hollywood men like Piven aren’t afraid to accessorize. Marc Worth, founder of WGSN, will romantic comedy scheduled to come out “Men in L.A. understand jewelry, which is a testament to the relaunch the brand in February at in time for Valentine’s Day. Cavalli gave West Coast’s infl uence on design today,” said Yurman. The London Fashion Week, according Kravitz high marks as a designer. “He’s collection starts at $1,000 and goes up to $30,000. to a spokesman. The Ossie Clark a real talent. I think he could help me creative team includes Avsh Alom design something,” he joked. Not only DRESSED TO KILT: Designer Jeffrey Banks is not the only person Gur, who has worked at Donna Karan, is Kravitz busy in the design world, but in the industry crazy about tartan. At a party feting his new Roberto Cavalli, Chloé, and Nicole the rocker is also opening a new lounge book, “Tartan: Romancing the Plaid,” Banks and co-author Farhi. Clark’s heyday was the Sixties at the Miami Beach’s Delano with Art Doria de La Chapelle didn’t get up from the signing table for and early Seventies, and he was best Basel Miami Beach and working on the the entire two-hour duration of the event Monday night. Saks known for his tailoring, which was upcoming February release of his album Fifth Avenue celebrated the tome on its second fl oor, amidst often coupled with romantic prints “It Is Time for a Love Revolution.” “It’s Burberry’s famous plaid offerings. Co-hosts Stephen I. Sadove by his then-wife Celia Birtwell. Once about us, this world. It’s time for a love and Diane von Furstenberg stood court among a crowd of plaid- known as “King of the King’s Road,” revolution and time for us to step it up wearing dandies. Clark’s fl uid, bias-cut shapes were and spread more love,” said Kravitz. distinctive with their full sleeves, Another project Kravitz is working on BARRE NONE: The ballet world got a taste of rock ’n’ roll Monday swingy skirts and scoop necks. He is his clothing line, which he plans on evening when Career Transitions for Dancers hosted “Dance was a colorful character in Swinging unveiling in the next year. “It’s taking Rocks,” presented by Rolex. The likes of Patricia Kennedy, Bebe Sixties London, and was immortalized Christine Schwarzman as Victoria me a lot of time because I’m juggling Neuwirth and Christine Ebersole were on hand at City Center by David Hockney in the 1970 painting Beckham, with a cardboard David. music and fi lm, but it’s defi nitely going as ballerinas pirouetted and plieed to the musical stylings of “Mr. and Mrs. Clark and Percy.” Clark to happen,” said Kravitz. Elvis Presley and James Brown. Between numbers, Ebersole was murdered in 1996 by his former lamented her two left feet. “I always wanted to be a dancer,” lover. A few years ago London’s Victoria and Albert Museum PRETTY AS A PICTURE?: Since nothing can be published in the actress told the crowd, “but that wasn’t in the cards for held a mini retrospective of his work that ran from July 2003 peace without a requisite book signing, Hamish Bowles donned this lifetime.” Of course, evening honoree Neuwirth—whose until May 2004. Guests at the opening party included Kate one of his many hats Monday night and acted as proud author Broadway credits include “Fosse” “Chicago” and “A Chorus Moss, Manolo Blahnik, Marianne Faithful, David Hockney and of “Vogue Living: Houses, Gardens, People” at the Calvin Line”--could not make the same claim. “When I was born, the Zandra Rhodes. Klein store on Madison Avenue. As people lined up to buy doctor told my mother, ‘she’s a dancer’,” the “Frasier” star said. 10 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007 WWD.COM Photographers’ Ad Game By Amy Wicks orget fi nance, medicine, the law or technology. If you want to make big bucks in a short time these days, Fbecome a fashion photographer. Top photographers can earn more than $100,000 a day shooting ad campaigns for major fashion and beauty brands — a process that typically takes three to fi ve days. As for their rates, there are many details to take into account — such as, what will the usage be? Will the ads run nationally or internationally? For ad campaigns, photographers also tend to use three to fi ve full-time assistants and a digital tech, plus a small army of freelancers if they can. And even the most prestigious photographers will take a cut in pay to do a high-profi le campaign or a favor for a friend. Taking all of that into account, up-and-coming photographers tend to earn about $25,000 to $50,000 per day for a fashion ad campaign, while more seasoned ones make between $75,000 to $100,000 a day, and major names can make more than $100,000 a day. WWD surveyed fall ad campaigns to fi nd out which photographers shot what ad. Of course, we’re talking about fashion — and styles could change next season, if they haven’t already. After all, most brands are shooting their spring campaigns now. Here, a list of the fall campaigns:

Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, Craig McDean: Ellen von Unwerth: with a model. Christian Dior Badgley Mischka Calvin Klein Collection Baccarat Gucci Bebe Blumarine Target/Erin Featherston Anna Molinari Miss Sixty MaxMara Emporio Armani Patrick Demarchelier: Oscar de la Renta Banana Republic Prada Sport Ann Taylor Seven Jeans Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh New York & Company Matadin: BCBG YSL Ralph Lauren Black Label Chloé Stella McCartney Dewey Nicks: Givenchy Tommy Hilfi ger Jean Paul Gaultier Roxy Ungaro MaxMara Looks Balmain Tom Tailor Lanvin Men Willy Vanderperre: Steven Meisel: Jil Sander Prada Bally Lanvin Et Vous Mulberry Givenchy Men Mario Sorrenti Pringle of Scotland Dsquared Tom Munro: Belstaff Brooks Brothers Alberta Ferretti Bebe Sport Converse Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott: Neiman Marcus Art of Fashion Giorgio Armani Armani Jeans Annie Leibovitz: Louis Vuitton, with Scarlett Gap Johansson Bottega Veneta Roberto Cavalli Louis Vuitton Valentino Nina Ricci Miu Miu Camilla Akrans: Mario Testino: Missoni Burberry Eres Michael Kors St. John Terry Tsiolis: Versace Alessandro Dell’Acqua Donna Karan Ballantyne Ferré Missoni Sport Two Hugo Boss campaigns Ellen von Unwerth Ferragamo Steven Klein: Dolce & Gabbana Akris Peter Lindbergh: Pinko David Yurman Hermès Bruce Weber: Moschino Celine Calvin Klein Underwear Polo Ralph Lauren Club Monaco Hugo Boss Karl Lagerfeld: A YSL ad for fall. Chanel Mikael Jansson: Fendi Tod’s Nicole Farhi Michael Thompson: Pepe Jeans, with Sienna Miller Tumi, with Shalom Harlow Gap Europe Calvin Klein White Label Philip-Lorca diCorcia: H&M Anne Klein

David Sims: Greg Lotus: Balenciaga Escada Tse Benetton Juergen Teller: Craig McDean Marc O’Polo Marc Jacobs Calvin Klein Jeans

Mario Sorrenti: Carolina Herrera Jill Stuart Longchamp Malo Peter Lindbergh Mario Testino Aquascutum WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007 11 WWD.COM Media/Advertising

“The Martha Stewart Show” makes it clear to “dress your best,” including the phrase three times in its e- mail ticket confi rmation. Women should think “dressy and fun” when picking an outfi t, while men should think more country club attire — “polo shirts or button-down,” the show said. What about madras plaid? A jacket is, Camera-Ready thankfully, to be worn at one’s discretion. Oprah only has two wardrobe stipulations — no beige n a world of T-shirts and fl ip-fl ops often worn to the A spokesman for “Rachael Ray” said the program wants or white attire, which usually doesn’t fi lm well on any Iworkplace, how can Oprah, Martha, Tyra and Rachael get audience members to be camera-ready because they’re television program. “Our audience doesn’t really wear photogenic audience members to their shows? actively involved in the show. “Our audience sits on a T-shirts. They’re in sweater sets, blazers, crisp shirts in Insist on a dress code. turntable, and they rotate onto a different part of the set,” bright colors,” said a spokeswoman for the show. No matter if the topic is easy offi ce makeovers or an he explained. But for those looking to shout out their own messages interview with the world’s hottest stay-at-home dads, In addition to sneakers and T-shirts, “Tyra” bans on TV — at least from the audience — “The View” audience members should come dressed to impress to “extreme hairstyles” of any kind — so no pink mullets. welcomes everyone, including the coordinated birthday- most daytime talk shows. Most have specifi c guidelines Luckily, the show is more sympathetic toward footwear. message T-shirts and light-up holiday sweaters. “It’s a on what to wear when appearing on their shows. Of the On fl ip-fl ops, the program recognizes on its Web site that morning television talk show,” said one source close to the ladies of daytime TV, Tyra Banks, Martha Stewart and Rachael “walking around the city in uncomfortable shoes can be show. “No one’s going to come in a suit and tie — you just Ray have the strictest dress codes, while “The View” and, a task. Some change their shoes once they arrive to the dress appropriately. It’s a relaxed vibe.” surprisingly, Oprah Winfrey, have the loosest standards. taping.” Thanks for the tip. So, for those eager for their 15 minutes of TV fame “The Tyra Banks Show” and the “Rachael Ray” show Meanwhile, don’t think of getting friends together and from being an audience member, WWD outlines in the have nearly the same laundry list of outlawed fashions dressing in all-pink T-shirts that say “Happy 40th Mom!” chart below the dos and don’ts found either on the Web — fl ip-fl ops, shorts, white T-shirts, velour sweatsuits, on “Ellen: The Ellen DeGeneres Show.” Its Web site says, sites of the various shows or with ticket confi rmations that sneakers, ripped jeans or tank tops — which means it bans “No coordinating/matching outfi ts allowed.” Also banned guests receive via e-mail. pretty much every trendy item in today’s casual fashion. — Ellen-branded T-shirts or hats. — Stephanie D. Smith DRESS CODES FOR DAYTIME TALK SHOWS SHOW TITLE WHAT WORKS WHAT DOESN’T

The NO EXTREME HAIRSTYLES and NO LOGOS OF ANY KIND (in bold on “We ask that everyone come in upscale, business, interview attire. the Web site). No shorts, capri/gaucho pants, T-shirts, ripped jeans, Tyra Banks Think classy. You’ll look best on camera wearing solid colors.” sequins, hats, busy patterns, white/white tops/white jeans, jogging suits, Show velour pants, tank tops, fl ip-fl ops or sneakers.

Shorts, capri/gaucho pants, tank tops, T-shirts, ripped jeans, fl ip-fl ops, “You’ll look your best wearing solid, jewel-toned colors (deep blues, sneakers, sleeveless tops, sequins, hats, very busy patterns, white or Rachael Ray reds, greens, etc.).” primarily white/off-white/light pink tops or shirts, jogging suits or velour pantsuit.

The Oprah Bright colors work best, said a spokewoman. No beige or black. Winfrey Show

The Ellen Dress code is “Nice casual”: Dressy jeans allowed. A light jacket No “Ellen gear”— i.e., T-shirts with the Ellen logo, shorts, beachwear, DeGeneres or sweater is suggested, “It is often cold in the studio.” shirts with large logos. Coordinating/matching outfi ts are not allowed. Show

Anything. Bright colored shirts, holiday sweatshirts with reindeer Arriving naked. The View with noses that light up. Shorts, sneakers, fl ip-fl ops.

The show recommends “a chic dress, dressy jeans, or trendy and fashionable outfi ts,” “dress shoes and heels” for women. No T-shirts, large printed logos on shirts or pants, white shirts or wild Martha For men, “Polo-type shirts or a button-up shirt are best, with or prints. No hats, sleeveless tops, gym sneakers. without a blazer or jacket — it’s your call.” Calvin Klein Jeans Taps Janice Sullivan as Head MEMO PAD By Ross Tucker A NEW EYE: Yet another creative hand is joining the ranks of In Style, and the person is yet another top ranking hand from big sister People. Rina Stone will become In Style’s creative director, joining NEW YORK — Warnaco Group Inc. is going on the third president of its after fi ve years at Time Inc.’s money-minting weekly title. She replaces John Korpics, who will be Calvin Klein Jeans division in less than two years. moved upstairs to work on development projects for Time Inc. with John Huey. Korpics was with the The company said late Thursday that Janice Sullivan had been named magazine since February 2005, overseeing the latest redesign and tweaks and bringing a fresher president of Calvin Klein Jeans, responsible for overseeing design, de- look to the publication. Stone likely will evolve that look further, as the magazine searches for the velopment, merchandising, marketing and sales for the brand in the right mix to increase newsstand sales. Americas. Sullivan will report to Frank Tworecke, president of Warnaco’s At People, Stone was in charge of laying out covers, including the special issues; helped sportswear group. redesign people.com, and helped develop and launch People’s Hollywood Dailies and People Sullivan is a 17-year Liz Claiborne Inc. veteran, where she most re- StyleWatch. Before her tenure at Time Inc., Stone was Talk magazine’s design director and cently served as president of Narciso Rodriguez since June. She spent worked on the prototype for Radar. She also worked at Us, GQ, Entertainment Weekly and on the the bulk of her time at Claiborne with DKNY Jeans and Activewear and launch of Sports Illustrated for Women. —S.D.S. was president from 2005 to 2007. The move to Calvin will be a homecom- ing of sorts for Sullivan, who started her career with Calvin Klein Inc. in LOWERING EXPECTATIONS: Just days after Newsweek unveiled major changes in its executive suite, the jeans division. the magazine is telling advertisers that it will lower its rate base by 500,000 copies in January, “We are delighted to welcome Janice to our team,” said Tworecke in a or by 16 percent, to 2.6 million. The rate-base cut was fi rst reported in Advertising Age. A statement. “Her experience in the denim arena and her proven ability in spokeswoman for Newsweek could not confi rm the decision by press time, but sources said they’d running a premier lifestyle brand will complement our worldwide Calvin been told of the move. Klein Jeans team as we continue to build our global business.” Newsweek’s cut follows Time’s lowering its rate base in January to 3.25 million from 4 million. For Sullivan replaces Patricia Royak, who is leaving the company. Like the fi rst half of this year, Newsweek’s circulation remained fl at, but its newsstand sales, which make Sullivan, Royak migrated to Warnaco from Claiborne. Royak’s tenure up 3 percent of overall circulation, slid 9.3 percent. Ad pages through September have fallen 8.5 with Calvin was brief. She joined the company in late August 2006, fi ll- percent to 1,244. The rate-base cut comes after the promotions earlier this week of Thomas Ascheim ing a post that had been open for a month after former brand president to chief executive offi cer and Greg Osberg to president from publisher. Those moves were made as a Colleen Kelly left to become group president of the wholesale division at result of longtime editor in chief Rick Smith’s decision to step down at the end of the year. — S.D.S. Tommy Hilfi ger USA. 12 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007 WWD.COM Juicy Couture Finds Asia Ripe for Retail

By Constance Haisma-Kwok Looks inside the Hong Kong unit. HONG KONG — Gela Nash-Taylor, co-founder and co-presi- dent of Juicy Couture, can hardly contain her excitement. On a mini tour of Asia, Nash-Taylor not only is launching the brand’s fragrance in the region (it will be exclusive to Hong Kong while regulatory hurdles are cleared in other cities) but also is cutting the ribbon on two new stores, one in Beijing and the other in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. “I have no idea what to expect, I’m just excited to see everything — especially the Great Wall,” said Nash- Taylor, who confi rmed Juicy Couture has big plans for the region. “By the end of this year, we will have 63 stores in the U.S.,” she explained, “and within 10 years, we’ll have 47 in Asia.” The company, a division of Liz Claiborne Inc., is well on its way to reaching those goals. Juicy Couture already has four freestanding stores in Hong Kong, as well as a pres- ence in Lane Crawford and Harvey Nichols here. Next year will see free- standing stores in Indonesia, Taiwan, Singapore and Macau — the latter slated for a spring debut at the Four Seasons Hotel, which is part of the Cotai Strip development. In China, Juicy Couture has stores in Gela Nash-Taylor Couture, Juicy Men, kids’ and Beijing and Chengdu, and a new a full range of accessories. The shop in Guangzhou. store is located in the heart of The company’s brand manager Kuala Lumpur’s luxury shop- for Asia Pacifi c, Alison Whittle, said ping district at Pavilion. It has Shanghai is next on the Mainland been designed as a single informal China agenda. “We’ll open Shanghai space with most of the merchandise next year. It’s such a good retail op- displayed on the walls. A long glass portunity, we have to be there. The only table, inspired by a girl’s dressing table reason we went to Beijing fi rst was that the and featuring colorful Juicy graphics, right location was available,” she said, adding serves as the centerpiece. that Lane Crawford Joyce Group, which operates the “We like to have different elements in each of our stores in Asia, is looking at a space in Shanghai’s West stores. We do have a global customer, but he or she Gate shopping mall. wants to see something a little different everywhere In Beijing, amid airport-closing pollution levels, they go. The idea of a cookie-cutter store is defi nitely Nash-Taylor welcomed guests to the opening of Juicy over,” said Nash-Taylor. Couture’s second freestanding store. The shop is located In the meantime, she is taking a bemused attitude in the fi nancial district’s Shingkong development, where to news reports from Austin, Tex., that a schoolgirl was Lane Crawford opened its fl agship the same weekend. asked to change clothing when she arrived at school “With Lane Crawford as an anchor, this is a good place wearing a Juicy Angel T-shirt. “I just can’t relate to it. It’s for us to be,” said Whittle. not like Austin is a hick town,” said Nash-Taylor. “It’s a While she would not divulge sales fi gures, Nash- sweet little logo. For them to get uptight about the word Taylor said establishing business in China is more ‘juicy’ is odd because it’s been around for a long time. than a public relations exercise and window dressing. And if you’re really going to start taking words apart like “This is a real investment and sales are real,” she said. that you can talk about Opium, Poison, you can go on and “That’s what’s great about Juicy — it’s attainable and on. I don’t take it too seriously, it’s all good fun.” accessible. It’s couture for the masses.” She takes a similar attitude toward counterfeiting. The company’s biggest store in the region, however, is “There are people in the company who look after coun- in Kuala Lumpur. Spanning two levels over 3,500 square terfeiting and copying, but Pam [Skaist-Levy, co-founder feet, the shop is the fi rst in Malaysia to carry all of Juicy of Juicy Couture] and I have looked at it as fl attery,” said Couture’s collections, including Juicy Couture, Couture Nash-Taylor. “You can’t get upset — it’s just business.” Eyeing Olympics, Retailers Undeterred by Beijing Air Quality

By Kathleen E. McLaughlin very bad by any measure. The they focus on the capital’s grow- Beijing’s two days Oct. 26 and 27, accord- ing appetite for consumer goods. omnipresent smog. BEIJING — When a thick blan- ing to the State Environmental A lack of environmental aware- ket of smog fell over Beijing last Protection Administration, ness among the general popula- Friday air travel in and out of scored 184 and 179, respective- tion means retailers in China the Chinese capital ground to ly, on the Chinese air pollution have not yet been pressed into en- a near halt, road traffic slowed index (the base is 100). Those acting “eco-friendly” programs as to a crawl and irritation with days marked the worst air in the in other countries. Chinese con- the city’s omnipresent pollution capital since last July, when lev- sumers don’t have access to the rose to new heights. els of pollutants included sulfur same information about pollution Melvin Chua boarded his dioxide, considered by the World and climate change so prevalent fl ight in Shanghai at 8:30 a.m., Health Organization simply un- now in Western media, said Paul bound for Beijing and the open- healthy for human consumption. French, Shanghai-based partner ing of the capital’s new Lane The smog of Beijing is a mod- with the U.K. research publisher Crawford outlet that evening. ern rule of the city rather than Access Asia, and hence, remain After a “nightmare” wait of six an exception. Residents tend to less concerned. hours on the runway, publicist sigh, cough and carry on as they “The sort of initiatives that Chua’s plane fi nally took off and slog through life in one of the [companies] like Tesco are tak- CHINA PHOTOS/GETTYPHOTO BY IMAGES he made the opening. Several world’s most polluted capitals. ing in the U.K. to reduce carbon to Beijing’s air quality. Despite “Beijing’s old or nonexistent others weren’t so lucky, as hun- Still, the impact of Beijing’s emissions from their stores do moving heavily polluting facto- infrastructure, rapid develop- dreds of fl ights were canceled or bad air on its burgeoning retail not seem to be being implement- ries elsewhere and other “clean- ment and geological constraints delayed last Friday. sector appears, at most, negligi- ed here — I’d argue that’s due to up” measures, the agency found mean the city still has consider- But industry insiders and re- ble. While sales clerks at capital- no consumer pressure, so they that Beijing’s bad air will be an able challenges to overcome, es- searchers agree that Beijing’s based outlets for Nike, Zara and don’t do anything,” said French. unwelcome presence during the pecially in the areas of air and famously bad and not-improv- Sephora confi rmed that indeed, All this as Beijing prepares Games in August 2008. water quality,” said the report. ing pollution is more annoy- business is noticeably slower for its Olympics debut just 10 Poor air quality from indus- The city’s geographic loca- ance than deterrent as retailers when the air worsens, major re- months from now. In a new trial and commercial pollution tion, amid mountains that block prepare for the 2008 Olympic tailers report little concern over report, the United Nations remains a “major concern” as air circulation, and its growing Games here with massive ex- possibly losing customers who Environmental Program said the Games approach, the report number of seasonal dust storms pansion and new outlets. choose not to venture out when the outlook for the 2008 Games found, and little can be done to compound the problem, the re- Last weekend’s pollution was pollution is at its worst. Instead, remains bleak when it comes reverse current patterns. port added. ADVERTISEMENT F ragrant Affairs RETAIL SALES BOOMING

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continued on page 4

DAVID BECKHAM’S SCORES WITH INSTINCT FOR SUCCESS

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George Cleary, president, Coty Beauty US

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FRAGRANT AFFAIRS 4

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FRAGRANT AFFAIRS 6 © COTY US LLC, NEW YORK, NY 10016

www.stetsoncologne.com

WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007 21 WWD.COM

featuring designer clothes, including donations from Alexander Wang and Issey Miyake, with Fashion, Harvard Style proceeds benefi tting the Confucius Foundation, a nonprofi t that helps educate underprivileged ashion is coming to the hallowed halls of Harvard. children in China. F An entrepreneurial Harvard junior, Timothy Parent, has organized Project “The juxtaposition between Harvard and East, a fashion show and benefi t set for Saturday on the campus in Cambridge, Mass. fashion has never been explored,” Parent Aside from generating interest in the seven Asian designers whose pieces will be said. “Fashion is the last thing that comes to featured on the runway, this student-run initiative is intended to promote compa- mind when you think of Harvard, but we’ve nies’ interest in recruiting Harvard undergrads and to raise money for a nonprofi t gotten a really good response from designers organization that helps children working in sweatshops to return to school. About 800 and the press.” people are expected at what Parent hopes will be an annual event. Diep said she got involved “fi rst and fore- Parent, who is specializing in Eastern Asian studies and economics, said he decid- most” because the event will benefi t a good ed 18 months ago to do something to help raise the profi les of Asian designers after cause. She also liked the idea of being in the being in Korea and seeing the progressive, handmade approach that many designers company of the other designers. Diep plans to there take. show items from her fi rst collection, fall 2007, at This weekend’s event on the Radcliffe Quad will include pieces by Yeohlee, Harvard, since it will be more timely for the stu- Twinkle by Wenlan, Mary Ping, Gemma Kahng, Thuy Diep, Chris Han and Jen Kao. dent audience. A graduate of Brown University, In addition to the seven practicing designers, the work of seven 2007 graduates of Diep said she is eager to retrace her student Parsons The New School for Design will also show their work. days, when she would drive to Boston for day “Small designers in general have a hard time surviving,” Parent said. “This is trips from Brown’s campus in Providence, R.I. an industry where people who are perceived to be very successful may not even be — and to develop a retail base there. breaking even. It’s important to support people who pursue their passion, especially As the title sponsor, Macy’s Inc. provided in a business so dominated by French and Italian houses.” $15,000 in support, Parent said. The months of Parent, who is interested in doing brand development in China and Korea, has preparation and fund-raising did not result in any other motives, too. “We want to build a relationship between Harvard and the fashion credits for Parent or other students. “Harvard is industry,” he said. “Right now there are no resources. As far as recruiting goes, there Designs by Yeohlee pretty picky about its classes,” he said. “I prob- is Ralph Lauren. No other fashion companies are doing it.” will be on the ably have been paying more attention to this than Kahng and Diep are among the designers expected to participate in a panel dis- runway at Harvard. to my classes, but it’s just extracurricular.” cussion Sunday about careers in fashion at Harvard. There also will be an auction — Rosemary Feitelberg

periences with the kids, that’s what re- ally counts,” Rep. Charles Rangel (D., BRAG Dinner Focuses on Message N.Y.), chairman of the House Ways and Means Committee, told the crowd. “It’s here were inspirational words and a record having mentors.” Tcrowd of 600 guests at the Black Retail Action Rangel said he learned from the Group’s 36th annual sponsorship and awards din- street, growing up in a poor neigh- ner-dance at Cipriani on Wall Street last week. borhood, and also from his experi- The festive atmosphere, however, didn’t over- ences working in hardware shops shadow the message that more must be done to and drugstores, and selling vacuums. recruit and retain people of color so they can “Selling ideas and being creative,

rise as retail executives. MARGOT JORDAN PHOTOS BY this is what life is all about,” he said. The irony, BRAG president Gail Monroe-Perry Twenty-six student scholarships suggested, is that the black community has enor- Clockwise from far were awarded at the dinner. In ad- mous buying power, representing $845 billion, left: Naomi Campbell dition, Lisa Price, founder and man- which is estimated to rise to $1.1 trillion by 2012. and Jeffrey Tweedy, aging partner of Carol’s Daughter, But only 2 percent of U.S. merchandising execu- president of Sportswear received the BRAG J.J. Thomas tives are black. G-III Apparel Group; Business Innovators Award. “We are as important, if not more important, BRAG’s Gail Monroe BRAG Business Achievement to the retail community as in 1970,” when BRAG Perry with Rep. Charles Awards went to John Demsey, was founded, Monroe-Perry said. She also de- Rangel, Constance group president of the Estée cried “a lack of representation on the runways White, eBay style Lauder Cos.; Joe Dudley, presi- and in advertising.” director, and Mikki dent and chief executive offi cer of Among its many activities, BRAG organizes Taylor, Essence Dudley Products; Marti Moore, di- mentorships, seminars and workshops, and magazine cover and visional vice president of cosmetics works to promote the acceptance and advance- beauty director; Lord & at Lord & Taylor, and Mikki Taylor ment of people of color in retail and related Taylor’s Marti Moore. of Essence Magazine. industries. Major retailers, including Wal-Mart Naomi Campbell received the BRAG Stores, Macy’s, Limited Brands, TJX Cos., Sean Special Recognition Award, and Ethan Shapiro, ceo of Urban Brands, accepted the BRAG John, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and Corporate Award. He said 97 percent of his employees are people of color and 98 percent Lord & Taylor are among the companies that are women, adding that his company, which operates the Ashley Stewart and Marianne support BRAG. chains, is the sole U.S. fi rm targeting only people of color in its marketing programs. “To reach out to young people, to share your ex- — David Moin Cloutier Promoted to New Chico’s Post Woolworth Changes Hands ichele Cloutier has been promoted to brand Black & Assoc., said Cloutier was a charismatic Mpresident of Chico’s, a new position with leader who should bring energy to the company and Chico’s FAS Inc. the brand, which has seen sales soften in recent In Multiple-Ownership Deals “It’s my job to establish one cohesive brand under years. “She’s made improvements in denim fi ts, one point of view,” Cloutier said in an interview. added more novelty and she’s committed to less BERLIN — Woolworth Germany has changed ownership Cloutier will supervise store sales repetition,” Black said. in a multiple transaction. and marketing, in addition to the mer- Chico’s FAS Inc.’s strategy, outlined Late Wednesday, it became known that an uniden- chandising, product development, last spring by Scott Edmonds, presi- tifi ed affi liate of the British fi nancial investment com- planning and allocation that she dent, chairman and chief executive pany Argyll Partners bought the German operations of currently handles. Cloutier said offi cer, involves appointing vision- Woolworth from Electra Partners, the majority share- her challenge was to antici- ary leaders to represent each of holder of Deutsche Woolworth GmbH & Co. OHG. pate the needs of Chico’s Baby the company’s three divisions Concurrently, an affi liate of the U.S. private equity Boomer customers more accu- — Chico’s, White House|Black company Cerberus Capital Management bought about rately and quickly in a highly Market and Soma Intimates. 110 properties housing the German Woolworth stores competitive specialty retail In August, Chico’s named from the Argyll affi liate, and immediately leased them playing fi eld. Donna Noce Colaco to be brand back. According to a sparsely distributed press release “We still have a great brand president of White House|Black from Woolworth: “The real estate transaction has helped and great customers, and, like Market. A brand president for Argyll to facilitate an appropriate fi nancial structure for all retailers, we need to evolve Michele Cloutier Soma has not been selected. the turnaround of Woolworth.” with the needs of our customers,” Chico’s FAS Inc., based in Financial details of the deals are not available. she said. Fort Myers, Fla., has 998 women’s Woolworth Germany operates 330 doors in Germany Cloutier joined Chico’s in specialty stores in 48 states, the and Austria. While sales fi gures have not been made pub- September 2006 as executive vice presi- District of Columbia, the U.S. Virgin lic in some time, industry sources estimate that about 25 dent and general merchandise manager. Islands and Puerto Rico, including 588 percent of the stores are unprofi table. In 2005, Deutsche She was named executive vice president and chief Chico’s frontline stores, 36 Chico’s outlet stores, Woolworth reportedly had a loss of 31 million euros, or merchandising offi cer in March, succeeding Patricia 287 White House|Black Market frontline stores, 19 approximately $44 million at current exchange rates. Murphy Kerstein, who retired. Before Chico’s, White House|Black Market outlet stores, 67 Soma Electra Partners, which is based in the U.K., acquired Cloutier was a senior executive for Ann Taylor, Gap, Intimates frontline stores and one Soma Intimates Deutsche Woolworth from the American parent company Gap Body and Banana Republic. outlet store. in 1998. Analyst Jennifer Black, president of Jennifer — Georgia Lee — Melissa Drier 22 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007 WWD.COM Dresses Key at Dallas Market By Holly Haber also hunted for new labels. “We found a great line of dresses and tops with a lot DALLAS — The dress continued to reign at the four-day of design, called Gold Hawk,” Hayes said. “They had a spring market at FashionCenterDallas. pretty black satin shift dress with crystals at the neck and Buyers at the market that ended Oct. 24 found new- pockets.” ness in prints and details like crochet trim, metallic Dresses and tops were priorities for Miriam Garvey, touches, draping and subtle sparkle. The dress has be- owner of Serendipity in Fairway, Kan. She liked a strap- come so popular that it usurped some of the denim busi- less white dress with silver pinstripes from Beauty Mark ness, retailers said. by Byron Lars, as well as a cocoon cotton sweater by The slow start of fall business clouded the outlook and Autumn Cashmere. buyers planned spring with fl at budgets or small increas- “We are planning up in dresses, which has doubled es. Sales representatives said traffi c was spotty, but they this year,” Garvey said. “I even ordered half-slips.” were happy with the quality of the retailers they saw. Christine Bailey, co-owner of Barbara Jean in Little “We’re so excited about dresses this season and we Rock, came primarily to buy Lafayette 148 and review will have a store full,” said Christine Bailey, co-owner spring collections. of Barbara Jean in Little Rock, Ark. “Whether it’s solid, “I love Lafayette,” Bailey said, citing a leopard-print print, stripe or short, there are so many cute options out taffeta dress as a favorite. “It was very sophisticated and there that I really do feel it is new for the client.” a little more forward for our bridge customer than some Krista Ward, a partner in the Moxie showroom, where of the other options she might buy in the bridge market. demand was high for Sugar Lips’ inexpensive young con- I picked up the black-and-white group because any time temporary dresses, said dress sales tripled this year. of year black and white is always strong for us.” In addition, there was praise for the Dallas Market The unusual warmth of September and October had Center’s recent decision that markets would resume a Bailey thinking about next fall. Thursday-to-Sunday schedule next year. “For fall next year, 80 percent of my buy needs to be “Overwhelmingly, people want to go back,” said transitional,” she said. “We used to have coats and furs, Susanne Taylor, who specializes in eco-friendly lines and and those days are gone. We really do need the designers comfort clothing at her namesake showroom. “For my to give us fabrics that are more year-round.” larger corporate buyers, Monday was report day, so [the Pamela and Peter Cott, owners of Pamela’s contem- Sunday-to-Wednesday market] was diffi cult for them.” porary boutique in Coppell, Tex., sought special items to A silk print dress

Cindy Morris, chief operating offi cer of the Dallas retain customers who are straying to discounters. by Nicole Miller. NAN COULTER PHOTO BY Market Center, FCD’s parent, said, “We saw an in- “We’re going less mainstream,” Peter Cott said. crease in buyer attendance from key regions and re- “When Sam’s started carrying Joe’s [Jeans] and Antik “The Southwest is the best thing for us in the whole ceived positive feedback regarding the 2008 date pat- [Denim], then we’re out of it.” country,” said Bud Konheim, chief executive offi cer and tern change to Thursday through Sunday for apparel Seeking alternatives to denim, the pair picked up wide- a principal of Nicole Miller. “It’s the best part of the markets going forward.” leg pinstripe pants by JWLA and seamed cargo pants by Southern mentality where people dress up to go outside, The DMC made an effort to bring in retailers who Another, both divisions of Johnny Was. They also favored but it’s a little faster and not as laid back.” hadn’t shopped here before, including Winter Hodges, who a colorful print silk chiffon dress by Abi Ferrin, a fl edgling Miller, who won the fashion award in the After 5 cate- was rounding out spring orders for his fi ve contemporary Dallas designer who won a statewide design contest last gory, has been slowly expanding her sportswear offerings stores in the Southeast called 310 Rosemont and Westwin. year sponsored by the Dallas Fashion Incubator. and selling them only through specialty stores, Konheim Based in Roanoke, Va., Hodges plans to open a unit this The annual Dallas Fashion Awards ceremony and noted. The spring collection was half sportswear. month at River Oaks Shopping Center in Houston. gala drew a number of designers who do signifi cant busi- “In September, we doubled our sportswear busi- Hodges and his buyer, Josie Hayes, were enthusias- ness here, including Nicole Miller, Edward Wilkerson ness and we haven’t sold to one department store yet,” tic about Francesco Biasia, a core resource, and his big of Lafayette 148, Biya Ramar of Johnny Was and Paige Konheim said. “The whole country is in a funk, but our bronze python handbag and yellow ostrich tote. They Adams-Geller of Paige Premium Denim. specialty store business is 30 percent ahead.” Kayne’s First Store Opens in West Hollywood Sebelia Launches Younger Line By Marcy Medina a bamboo ceiling, is similar to Kayne’s own By Ladan Cher Beverly Hills home — earthy and timeless. The WEST HOLLYWOOD, Calif. — Designer Jenni space also seems bigger than it is because of the LOS ANGELES — “Project Runway’’ winner Jeffrey Sebelia is Kayne has embraced retail. high ceilings and racks that hug the walls. branching out with the launch of a namesake young contempo- Kayne last month opened her fi rst store in “I was actually only looking for a 500- to rary line. a 2,500-square-foot space at 641 North Almont 1,000-square-foot store, but I can really grow The Jeffrey Sebelia line, launched during the market here Drive here, between Melrose Avenue and into this,’’ said Kayne, who plans to expand into last week maintains the edgy signature of Sebelia’s higher-end Santa Monica Boulevard. Hers is the only ap- kids’ and men’s wear in the next year. label Cosa Nostra, but is geared to a youthful audience, with parel store on a block In addition to her wholesale price points of $38 to $78. populated by furniture The exterior of apparel and cashmere “This new line is intended to reach a younger customer who stores and art galler- Jenni Kayne’s new blankets, which retail cannot afford Cosa Nostra,’’ said Sebelia, whose line is avail- ies. In fact, it is much store. for $150 to $4,000, the able at the Steve Martino & Assoc. showroom in the New Mart like Melrose Place was store carries the foot- here. “The clothes are less serious and expensive and more before designers began wear line she produces playful and fl irty.”

fl ocking to that street. TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY for Report. The shoes, Inspired by the heroine played by Beatrice Dalle in the “I always wanted to which Kayne designs 1986 movie “Betty Blue,” Sebelia said the line tries to capture open a store and was for her runway shows, “dressing with an eclec- interested in Melrose don’t retail anywhere A look from tic taste and putting to- Place before all the else. Other exclusives Jeffrey Sebelia. gether your own look.” stores signed on there,’’ include her bestseller The 100-piece collec- Kayne said. “Now I think for fall, the short- tion includes silk dresses it’s special to be a little sleeve coat, in special with Forties silhouettes, off Melrose and the only fabrics and colors. colorful ruffled skirts clothing store on the Kayne also sells her paired with muted tank block, yet there are still favorite things, from tops and loosely fitted great retailers nearby.’’ coffee table books blouses over big-buttoned The boutiques that change season- denim shorts. Maxfi eld, Seaton, James ally to vintage jew- Sebelia hopes that Perse and Costume elry and new jewelry such a wardrobe will “el- National are around the by her friends Lena evate the confidence of corner on the western- Wald and Tom Binns a girl who is otherwise most stretch of Melrose and her mother-in- self-conscious. I want Avenue. And customers law’s line, Irit. There [the girls who wear my who frequent the galler- are also perfumes by clothes] to feel happy, ies and furniture stores L’Artisan, sunglasses sexy and confi dent.” tend to be her custom- by Benjamin and tights Stepping away from ers, as well, she said. by Wolford. his Cosa Nostra celebrity Kayne, 25, who “I want it to be re- clientele, which includes started her business ally convenient,’’ she Gwen Stefani and Tommy four years ago, quickly said. “I don’t think peo- Lee, Sebelia envisions made a name for herself by dressing friends like ple have time to drive around to several stores the new collection selling Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Rachel Bilson, putting together a look.’’ in a range of stores. Nicole Richie and Hilary Tisch. Her clothes Kayne has a fi rst-year sales goal of $2 million. “Girls today shop retail in Neiman Marcus, Curve and Intermix, If the store does well, she plans to open a unit at H&M and Urban among others. in New York. Outfi tters, and then go to The store, which architect Jeff Allsbrook “I’m looking forward to customer feedback as boutiques and put it all gutted and fi lled with eco-friendly touches like the collection evolves,’’ she said. together,” he said. WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2007 23 Obituary WWD.COM Dress Barn Cuts Guidance Cosmetics Marketer Elizabeth Jerrett, 63 On Soft Same-Store Sales NEW YORK — Elizabeth Jerrett, fers advice, information and sup- a former marketing executive port to women who continue to ress Barn Inc. lowered full-year guidance Thursday at Elizabeth Arden who became work once they have been diag- Dbased on declining same-store sales estimates. president and chief executive of- nosed with the disease. The women’s apparel retailer expects full-year guidance ficer of cosmetics marketer Posner “It was because of Elizabeth that for diluted earnings per share to be between $1.25 and $1.35, Laboratories in the mid-Eighties, we created Cancer and Careers,” from its previous forecast of $1.40 to $1.50. It also lowered died Oct. 25 after a long battle with Jacobson said Wednesday, noting fi rst-quarter diluted EPS expectations to the range of 30 breast cancer. She was 63. that Jerrett, a consultant at the cents to 32 cents because of a decline in same-store sales. Jerrett began her career in the time, served on the executive com- The specialty chain plans to release fi rst-quarter sales beauty industry in 1972 as director mittee of the organization’s board and earnings results on Nov. 27. of marketing for Arden. Several years of governors. “At the time she was Although the company’s Maurices stores have posted later, however, she joined Converse diagnosed, she felt she couldn’t tell solid sales, Dress Barn sales have been hampered by un- as vice president of marketing in anybody [for fear] she would lose seasonably warm weather in September and October, the Boston, which also was the location of business,” said Jacobson. But “she company said in a statement. her alma mater. Jerrett had been one made it clear that there was a need “Our focus remains on controlling costs and balancing of the fi rst female graduates of the for information for women and that our Dress Barn stores’ inventory,” David R. Jaffe, president Harvard Business School, not long they could work. There was nothing and chief executive offi cer, said in the statement. “The weak- after the school opened its M.B.A. pro- like that at the time. er-than-anticipated comparable-store sales and our need to gram to women in the early Sixties, “Anytime anyone got cancer, she bring our Dress Barn stores’ inventory into line are expect- according to a longtime friend. Group, a consulting fi rm that she was the person people went to for ed to negatively impact both our fi rst- and second-quarters’ Jerrett rejoined the beauty in- ran until 2004. information,” said Jacobson. “She earnings. We remain optimistic for an improved business dustry as vice president of mar- It was her own struggle with made herself available. She helped performance during the second half of our fi scal year.” keting at skin care manufacturer cancer that spurred the formation a lot of people.” Dress Barn shares were down 7.6 percent Thursday to Germaine Monteil and then be- of Cosmetic Executive Women’s Jerrett is survived by a son, close at $15.15 in New York Stock Exchange trading. came president of Posner in 1985, Cancer and Careers program, ac- Trevor Huston. A memorial service — Jeanine Poggi leading the company until 1994. cording to CEW president Carlotta is being planned for a later date. The next year, she formed Jerrett Jacobson. Cancer and Careers of- — Matthew W. Evans YEAR IN FASHION

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