Borneo Set Departure Tour: June 24 – July 2011
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Borneo Set Departure Tour: June 24 – July 2011 Bornean Orang Utan at Danum Valley We were very lucky to meet up with a number of Orang Utans during our stay in Danum Valley, but this was by far our best sighting. This large male was totally indifferent to our presence as he fed in a low tree along the entrance road to our lodge. Borneo is always a super exciting place to see wildlife. Surprisingly for the tropics, I’ve come to expect the unexpected. Most people think of the tropical forests as being sort of static places - the same year round with little variation in conditions. In fact, nothing could be further from the truth – conditions vary considerably but not in the way we expect in the temperate zones. Where most of us come from we can predict the seasonal changes but in the tropics these changes are often capricious…unpredictable and invariably baffling, or failing this they are so subtle as to be quite difficult to discern. I’ve been travelling and naturalising in Borneo for close to twenty years and still so much is a mystery to me. This year it was strange because many of the birds I would expect to find without much difficulty either showed up at the last minute or simply refused to reveal themselves to us. But the counter to that was that we found a number of goodies I don’t expect to see on every trip. That’s always exciting - for me as well as the participants! Borneo is quite rightly regarded as one of the great storehouses of our planet’s incredible biological diversity. Charles Darwin called Borneo “one great, wild, untidy, luxuriant hothouse made by nature herself.” What a fabulous summation of this remarkable place! It succinctly conjures an image of a Henri Rousseau jungle painting. These days the reality is that much of the rich and verdant rainforest of Borneo has been lost forever, given up to our greed for fuel and comfort. This third largest island in the world is rapidly being taken over by oil palm plantations and timber companies. The Malaysian state of Sabah in the north harbors the largest remaining tracts of lowland and montane rainforest in Borneo. From here the towering spinal mountain range dominated by Mount Kinabalu emanates, and the teeming, complex rainforests still fan out below them to the lowlands and ultimately to the coast. The vast majority of Borneo’s endemic animals and plants are found in Sabah. There are two reasons from this – the first is that most of the island’s higher mountains are in Sabah and these geographically isolated locations are where speciation bubbles away. The other is simply that Sabah is further away from mainland so eons ago there was less opportunity for this speciation to be watered down on those occasions that Borneo was joined to it by a land bridge. The wildlife of this remarkable island is incomparable. With a host of enticing birds (including 48 endemics), a charismatic mammal fauna, many strange and unusual reptiles and the largest collection of carnivorous pitcher plants, it’s not surprising that naturalists are irresistibly drawn to the island. Our birding started at Tambunan, a mid elevation site en route to Mount Kinabalu, where we had the chance to catch up with a few endemics that we knew we would not find elsewhere. We did pretty well here despite some very slow conditions. We left Sabah’s capital, Kota Kinabalu in the dark, arriving at our birding site just after dawn. This area of the Crocker Range National Park we pass through is at a slightly lower altitude to Mount Kinabalu and a good place to locate a handful of endemics and other specialties that are difficult to find at Kinabalu. We found Little Cuckoo-Doves to be plentiful, their charming vocalizations could be heard throughout the morning. We also had our first encounters with a few species we would become very familiar with over the next few days – Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrush, Bornean Whistler, totally manic flocks of Chestnut-crested Yuhinas, and Black-capped White-eyes. We found a little group of the newly split Bornean Leafbird and had nice looks Mountain Imperial- Pigeon, and the flaming Temminck’s Sunbird. Probably our most exciting find of the morning was a very close Bock’s Hawk Cuckoo (recently split from Large Hawk Cuckoo based largely on its quite different call), which we were able to study through the scope for quite some time. We had a few sightings of the rather shy, endemic Eyebrowed Jungle Flycatcher on the trails on Mount Kinabalu. Mount Kinabalu is one of those truly memorable mountains that seem to burst from the ground. It dominates the west coast and is pivotal to the identity of the local people. The cool montane forests on the slopes of Kinabalu and the surrounding Crocker Ranges are home to most of Borneo’s endemic species. Mount Kinabalu is so central to the identity of Sabahans that it is featured prominently on the state flag and is the subject of innumerable folkloric tales. It is also the key to Borneo’s incredible biodiversity, for it’s here in these northern mountain ranges that most of Borneo’s endemics evolved. Birding in this cool climate and verdant forests was a real pleasure as we strolled the trails and road in search of a host of goodies. We spent most of our time strolling and searching the narrow road that leads up to Timpohon Gate, the jumping off point for all those foolhardy people who aspire to climb to the summit. At the higher reaches there are a few species than are more common than even a little further down. So on our first morning we went in search of Bornean Whistling-Thrush, Sunda Bush- Warblers, and Bornean Treepies. The first two we found easily but oddly the treepies were a little more elusive. They showed up eventually though. Over the next few days we walked the road a number of times as well as a couple of the trails. The beautiful Mempening Trail paid off with great sightings of one of my favorite Bornean birds, the delightful Mountain Wren-Babbler. At various altitudes along the road we found mixed flocks comprising some neat birds like Bornean Whistler, Checker-throated and Maroon woodpeckers, Sunda Cuckoo-shrike Gray-throated Minivet, Hair-crested Drongo, Black-and- crimson Oriole, Short-tailed Green Magpie, Gray-throated Babbler, Sunda, Chestnut-capped and Bare-headed laughingthrushes, White-browed Shrike-Babbler, more large flocks of Chestnut-crested Yuhina, Mountain Leaf and Yellow-breasted warblers, and White-throated Fantail. We found the endemic Eyebrowed Jungle Flycatcher in thick forest on the Silau Silau Trail. A few other flycatchers - Indigo, Snowy-browed and Little Pied flycatchers – put in appearances. At the last minute we got something other than a stratospheric view of a Black-sided Flowerpecker, which was much appreciated by all. Black-capped White-eyes and Chestnut-hooded Laughingthrushes abounded and Ashy Drongos were everywhere. Mountain Tailorbirds would pipe up occasionally with their tuneful songs, allowing us to see them a couple of times. Another last minute bird was the bizarre Bare-headed Laughingthrush, who finally turned up amongst a mixed flock of Sunda and Chestnut-hooded laughingthrushes. The birding on Mount Kinabalu can be slow and frustrating but patience pays off and if one takes the time to enjoy everything the forest has to offer – the trees, the flowers, the insects, the mammals, the sounds and smells – it’s simply a wonderful experience to be here. The legendary Rafflesia flower of Borneo! We made a quick visit to the nearby Poring Hot Springs one afternoon where the highlight was not a bird but rather a flower! None other than the amazing Rafflesia, the largest and unarguably the strangest flower in the world. We were lucky to see one blooming, as this parasite with its unusual life cycle on appears above ground when it blooms over a period of about four days at most. We found a few nice birds here, too including the delightful and musical White-crowned Shama. A bunch of Orange-bellied Flowerpeckers were feeding in a flowering tree in the resort gardens but sadly they’ve seen fit to remove all the banana plants so our hoped-for swag of spiderhunters didn’t eventuate. On another afternoon we again went in search of plants! Over on another part of the mountain, the outpost of Mesilau allows access to a slightly higher area where the poorer soils support a variety of the exotic and beautiful carnivorous Nepenthes pitcher plants. We were able to observe and photograph four species in their natural setting, as well as a number of other endemic and beautiful plants – orchids, mosses, begonias and more. Our local ranger was remarkably knowledgeable and enthusiastic about his chosen subject so that was another fun aspect of our visit. Our next destination was Danum Valley, one of the premier birding and wildlife destinations in Asia so our long stay here was a rare opportunity to really experience the intricacies of this most complex of ecosystems – the Sundaic tropical lowland rainforests. There is no doubt that Danum Valley represents one of the most important, not to mention, exciting nature reserves in Asia. It is simply brimming with luxuriant forest and amazing wildlife, although as with most lowland tropical rainforests, finding some of this elusive wildlife can be a challenge! The forests here are the tallest rainforests in the world and the beautiful emergent Koompassia trees are truly stunning.