Volume 32 Issue 1 Summer 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club The same place Summer and Winter.

Where2 | The Bushwalker is it? Answer onVolume page 32, 7 Issue (No 1, peeking!) Summer 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

T h e Bushwalker From the editor’s desk. . . The Official Publication of the Confederation of Bushwalking Clubs NSW he Bushwalker is into the third year of colour, and the changes seem to have been Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 Twell received. Some changes have been introduced with this issue. The ‘Where am I’ Photo ISSN 0313 2684 Competition proved popular with a small number of enthusiasts, but logistics will make it very difficult to keep it going in the coming year. It is therefore taking a bit of a Editor: Roger Caffin holiday. For the Spring Photo Competition all photos were successfully identified. [email protected] Photo 29 of Valentines Hut in KNP was identified with great precision by a number of Graphic Design: Barry Hanlon people; Silvia French (NPA) gets the prize with a ME voucher. Photo 30 of the cairn on Mt Guouogang was identified by several people; Michael Smith (Nimbin Bushwalkers) gets the prize with a PP voucher. Confederation Officers: Photo 31 was of Queens Cascades from Undercliff. Several people came geographically President: Margaret Covi close but had the wrong Falls or wrong viewpoint. Ian Partridge (NPA) gets the prize [email protected] with a TT voucher. Administration Officer: Photo 32 was of Mouin & Warrigal from Clear Hill (above Tarros Ladders). The power line and road in the foreground are the clue. Several people got the mountains right [email protected] but thought it was from Carlons Head. Mark Agnew (BWRS) gets the prize with a PP voucher. Website: www.bushwalking.org.au In addition, Ian Partridge also identified Photo 22 later on. It is the face of Goolara Peak taken from Black Glen Spur, which is the spur on the south side of Black Creek. This Address all correspondence to: was apparently a hard one. (So is the bottom of that spur ...) Photo 28 of the bottom of Tarros Ladders was identified recently by several people, but PO Box 2090, GPO, Sydney 2001 the picture had since appeared with identification in Michael Keats’ new book ‘Day Walks in Therabulat Country’, and the photo was therefore ‘withdrawn’ from the competition. Sorry guys. The Confederation of Bushwalking We thank the Paddy Pallin group and the Outdoor Life group for their support over Clubs NSW Inc represents the last two years. approximately 65 Clubs with a total The idea of renaming lots of places in the Blue Mountains continues to attract membership of about 10,000 correspondence, with supporters for both sides of the argument. The debate continues bushwalkers. under “From the Mail Bag” on page 14. Formed in 1932, the Confederation Despite my appeals, we still need someone with some experience to help us with the provides a united voice on behalf of all advertising and marketing, both for this magazine and the nascent ‘Bush Pages’ on the bushwalkers on conservation, access web site. No pay, but plenty of glory! Enquiries please to: [email protected]. We are still asking for good articles to print. Clubs and members are encouraged to and other issues. submit relevant articles, with a very strong preference for those with good pictures. We It runs training courses for members, will also accept articles from outside bodies where the articles seem relevant to helps to provide a free wilderness members. Articles may be edited for length and content to help fit into our page limit. search and rescue organisation, and Pictures should be sent at maximum available resolution: at least 300 dpi. JPG, PDF or helps runs bush navigation TIFF formats are preferred. The text should be sent if possible as a plain text file (*.txt) competitions. rather than in a Word file (*.doc). Please send the pictures separate from the text file; People interested in joining a do NOT send them embedded in a Word doc file. And, of course, the Editor is always interested in receiving bushwalking books and maps for review. Enquiries should be bushwalking club may write to the sent to: [email protected] Confederation Administration, at the Please note that opinions expressed by authors may not represent the official address above, for a list of Clubs, but a opinions of the Confederation or any Club. The Editor’s opinions don’t represent more up-to-date version can be found anyone at all. on the Confederation website at Roger Caffin www.bushwalking.org.au, broken up Editor into areas. There’s lots of other good stuff there too. Index Where is It? 2 From the Editor’s Desk 3 Kyrgyzstan 2006 4 000 Emergency Phone Numbers 5 Day Walks in Therabulat Country 5

Subscribe to The Bushwalker Rafting the Franklin River 6 Keep up with all the news and developments happening in the NSW bushwalking scene for Breakfast Creek as you have never seen it before 8 only $10 per year. This is to cover posting and The Hippy, the Straight and the Sphinx 10 handling: the magazine itself is free. Send your name and address and cheque or Blue Gum Forest Burns Again 11 money order to Confederation of Bushwalking BWRS Helps in Large Search 12 Clubs NSW, PO Box 2090, GPO Sydney 2001. Make the cheque or money order payable to The Adventure Activity Standards the Confederation as well. and the Anti-Parks Lobby 13 Also please indicate if you are a member of a bushwalking club, and if not whether you From the Mail Bag 14 would like a copy of the list of our clubs. Defending Dunphys Nomenclature 14 You do have to be a member of one of our Nomenclature of the Blue Mountains 14 clubs to enter the ‘Where Am I’ Competition.

Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 The Bushwalker | 3 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Kyrgyzstan 2006 Trekking in Central Asia Hugh Barrett, Narrabri Bushwalking Club suffering the effects of altitudinitis, diarrhoea, foot soreness and general fatigue, with only one fully fit walker here were a few anxious moments, amongst us. Faced with three more passes as Hugh and Pam made urgent in the next three days, each averaging Tapplications for new passports after 1000m ascent and descent, we opted out their home was burgled, John just made and took a rest day. Four of us walked a the connection at Tashkent, and Mary’s little way up the proposed route and were to near the base of the glaciers the next luggage went missing. However, we all rewarded with an impromptu smoko with a morning for a rewarding closer look, then assembled in Bishkek and after a tour shepherding family in a yurt. CF walked headed back downstream to meet CF at the around the city and a day devoted largely up the Djuuku valley the way the trekkers junction of the western Teleti gorge. to getting Uzbekistan visas (and joining the had come. We headed up Teleti gorge the Kyrgyzstan Independence Day At Dima’s suggestion, we piled into the following morning, to camp at 2900m celebrations), we were off by mini-bus to truck after lunch and moved downstream, before attempting Teleti pass (3800m). Karakol in eastern Kyrgyzstan with our then up the Djuukuchak tributary to camp Awakening to the crack of a tent pole at 4 guides Mirim and Luba. near some hot springs. We cleaned up the litter then went for a good soak. The next morning we returned down the valley through the striking red cliffs of the Seven Bulls and the Broken Heart and then bumped our way to our subsequent camp in Chon Kyzyl-Suu (2600m), which revealed splendid views up the valley to the snow Holy cow! Where did the snow come from capped peaks. am, we found ourselves covered in 15 cm Leaving CF of new snow, effectively putting the pass next morning, we out of question. A porter headed back ascended the down early to reach a phone and arranged First camp, Dungureme River glorious Kara- for the truck to meet us as we walked back Batkak valley then down the valley, disappointed but safe. Side excursions to the 10th century turned up a side creek towards Archa-Tor However, the uninitiated revelled in their Burana tower and the petroglyphs at pass. We were in camp (3500m) before 1 first touch of fresh snow. The truck took Cholpon Ata helped break up the 400 pm, giving us plenty of time to explore the us back to Karakol, to replenish, then up kilometre trip via the northern shore of Karakol Gorge Lake Issyk-kul. On arrival at Karakol we to camp were introduced to our trekking guide, (2530m) Dimitri (Dima), our seven porters, cook opposite the and interpreter, and the camp followers’ junction of the (CF) guide and interpreter. Kel-Ter. After a night in Turkestan Travel’s yurt The walk camp, we were off next morning aboard the next day our 6-wheeled Soviet army truck, following took us due the southern shore of Lake Issyk-kul until a south, past the swim was called for. Halfway along the monument to 182 km long lake, at Barskoon, we turned fallen climbers, south along a decent gravel (gold mining) for spectacular road, arriving a little over-awed by the views of scenery for a late (damp) lunch at our Karakol Peak camp site (altitude 2600m) at the junction (5218m). The of the Barskoon and Dungureme Rivers. three who continued he cloud lifted in the morning and we furthest were found ourselves surrounded by soaring T rewarded by peaks (over 4500m) covered with a light the most dusting of fresh snow. Saying goodbye to sublime view CF, we made good time as we headed for of the Dungureme Pass. However, the altitude A camp with a view magnificent was telling by the time we reached the pass surrounds. Kay climbed a 300m ridge for peak overlooking the cloudy blue river (3773m) in the early afternoon and we exercise. A wonderful golden light passed meandering from under the glacier and didn’t get as far as planned on the descent, over the peaks before sunset. Attacking the across the meadow, all bathed in brilliant camping at 3460m. pass (3800m) next morning was a sunshine. This resulted in an extra-long trek of challenge, through the scree fields, with a 25km to our next camp, a beautiful site rope-assisted vertiginous drop-off on the he next morning all 11 of us walked a (2500m) selected by Denise and CF (who far side. Then it was downhill all the way, Tcouple of kilometres downstream to came up from Karakol in the food truck) to a pristine camp (2600m) on the Jety- the junction of Kurgok-Tor Gorge. A where the Djuuku River meets the Kashka- Oguz in full view of Oguz-Bashi (5168m) primitive log bridge got us across the Suu. By this time we were variously and Yeltsin Peaks. We took a day walk up rushing Karakol River, with packs

4 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club unstrapped in case of falling in. We then ascended to Sirota, a well used but 000 Emergency Phone Numbers beautiful camping spot (2900m) amongst the trees, which again was improved by a he recent search around Mt Solitary Remember that the mobile phone quick emu-parade. The triangular buttress in the Blue Mountains for David network is a communication system for of Ayu-Tor Peak (4320m) could be seen at TIredale has generated some debate cities and towns. Coverage into bush the head of the opposing gorge. The CF regarding how the “000” emergency areas is not guaranteed. Technology is descended the following morning, while phone number system operates. You will always changing. Currently, CDMA the trekkers climbed upstream past the find an official statement regarding “000” phones are more likely to get through waterfall, to be overlooking Ala-Kol Lake emergency phone calls at from bush areas than (the usual) GSM before lunch. We pushed on to half-way http://www.emergencycalls.aca.gov.au/ phones. Text messaging (SMS) will often around the northern side of the 3 kilometre As with Distress Beacons (if you choose “get through” when voice communication long lake, where we camped (3535m) and to take one) a mobile phone should only is unreliable. had lunch. A brief shower hunted us into be part of an overall Safety Plan. You In an emergency situation call 000 our tents for a snooze and later a couple of should always leave written details of first, if that does not work try 112. There us found our way around towards the your intended bushwalk with a is NO call fee for calling “000” Thus, a eastern end of the lake, for a grand vista responsible person such as immediate mobile phone with no credit should still overlooking the moraine at the end of the family member or close friend. See the be able to dial “000”. glacier feeding down from Ala-Kol Peak previous article in this magazine ‘Let The first website (above) has a (4359m). Someone Know Before you Go’. You reminder memory prompt. BEFORE you should carry food and equipment call “000” decide what service (Police, appropriate to the anticipated Fire Brigade or Ambulance) you require. environmental conditions. What is the nature of the emergency? If you have decided to carry a mobile What is your location? What is your Grid phone as a safety aid you should be aware Reference? What is the closest town or of its limitations. Do NOT let the battery natural feature a non-bushwalker call go flat. This usually means leaving it operator would understand? A mobile switched off all the time unless you need phone can sometimes be a useful to use it. Leave the phone in a waterproof communication tool in an emergency but bag until you really need it. it should be only one part of an overall Bushwalkers Wilderness Rescue Squad Safety Plan. (BWRS) has placed some notes with links to other websites on emergency communications at the web address below: http://www.bwrs.org.au/pages/ emergency coms.html Peak Karakol We awoke the next morning to a light dusting of sago snow and frozen underpants drying on the tent ropes. John Day Walks in couldn’t be restrained and jumped (very briefly) into the lake in company with ever- enthusiastic Yarrick, one of our porters, Therabulat* Country before we trekked up through the scree to Michael Keats, The Bush Club Ala-Koll Pass (3860m). A rude shock awaited us on the other side, with the downslope enveloped in cloud and covered This is a wonderful book, full of colour in snow. We slithered our way down pictures and immense amounts of detail beyond the reach of both, but a drizzle about the Wild Dogs area. It is in a very came back at us as we finished lunch. convenient A5 format (goes easily in a pack) with a stiff glossy cover, hordes of he drizzle was largely gone by the time colour pictures and runs to 200 pages. Twe reached our camp site at Altyn The walks described range from simple to Arashan hot springs, but kept returning challenging, but the topo map extract overnight and in the morning, so we provided with each walk shows the route abandoned plans for a walk up the Anyr- in plenty of detail. Michael describes the Ter. We took another hot tub instead and book thus: brought our “special dinner”, prepared by "This text is ‘the’ guide to the Wild our extra-special cook, Luda, forward to Dog Mountains. Whether your interest is lunch in the neighbouring yurt. The truck Aboriginal History, Geology, the origin of then returned us to Karakol, nearly a day Place Names, early European History, early but, unbelievably, with two weeks Flowers, Animals, a penchant for cattle having elapsed. duffing or to experience any of 19 walks The CF had done well and for our last in this area, this book is for you. evening in Karakol had organised a special The author spent four years performance for us by a top-flight group of researching and compiling the text that local musicians. We bade a sad farewell to includes contributions by the NPWS, the our special cook and those porters, guides Geographical Names Board and the of the history and geology too. The rocks and interpreters who had joined us for Central Mapping Authority. there are ancient! The willingness of other dinner and the concert, and packed our Historian-bushwalker Wilf Hildur bags for the trip back to Bishkek and the Bush Club members to go along with his provided many research leads and explorations must be mentioned as well. airport in the morning, via the southern comment. The content has been skillfully shore of Lake Issyk-kul. Our effervescent The book can be ordered now for edited by bushwalking icon and editor $27.50 per copy plus P&P ($3.50) from guide, Nelly, was awaiting us at Tashkent Roger Caffin [aw shucks]." airport, for a 10 day tour of the fabulous the author via his email address What does come through from the [email protected] . cities of the Silk Road. route descriptions (and from all the rest But that is another story. of the text) is Michael's huge enthusiasm * Also known as the Wild Dog Mountains in the for the area, and considerable knowledge Greater Blue Mountains National Park

Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 The Bushwalker | 5 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Rafting the Franklin River Alwyn Simple – Watagan Wanderers

[This was a seven day trip, but for space reasons this article covers just days 4 and 5, which were in the Great Ravine section. Selecting which photos to show was difficult! The trip was done with Brett Fernon of “Adventure by Water”, at www.franklinrivertasmania.com - Ed]

Day Four. The rain had gone away and the river had dropped 200mm over night but it was still running strongly. Today we were taking on the largest rapids for the trip and the Great Ravine. There would also be a couple of portages to get through. Leaving our campsite we travelled through several rapids and passed Askance Creek on our left. All these side creeks were helping to push up the water level in the Franklin. Huon pines were still plentiful along this section of the river. As we continued down the river, Blushrock Falls appeared on our right. We pulled in and walked up to the falls, which were flowing in Rain in Aesthesia Ravine spectacular glory. As we headed for the several large boulders and narrow chutes. positions in the raft and cast off riding the Bend of the Martins, we got our only view Again it was out of the rafts for us and we remainder of the rapid into the still of Frenchman’s Cap from the river. In the walked around this mass of boiling water. waters of The Sanctum. At the end of vastness of this wilderness, it was hard to This time the guides took a raft each The Sanctum was The Cauldron, a rapid believe that this mountain was actually through this section and picked us up at of devouring rocks and white water. over 1200 meters higher than we were on the bottom of the run. It was spectacular There is a high level porterage around the the river. This section of the river was to watch them and at times we could not Cauldron with a small level camp spot for relaxing but this relaxed attitude was see our guides in the raft for white water. four people at the top of the lower cliff From here we paddled line. This campsite has two names: The through Transcendence Sanctum Campsite or The Eagles Nest. It Reach, the long middle looked down on the Cauldron and also section of the Great Ravine. down the Sanctum section of the Great Ravine. Our next rapid was Side e padded the rafts into the narrow Winder, which was a drop off Wledge at the start of the porterage right on a bend of the river. track and pulled our way up and across We stayed in the rafts for this the top of the cliff using the rope that had rapid and rode safely been set into the rock face with steel pins. through it. After having see To allow enough room, the two guides our guides handle the rafts in slept on the rafts and the cooking and last two rapids our other chores were done at the rafts. A confidence in their ability safety rope was set up to act as a handrail had grown considerably. Also and to stop people falling over the edge. we had now been working as Dinner was delivered by the guides and I Descension Gorge a team for four days and this still do not know how they got those hot was what we had been meals up that cliff on plates two at a time. about to change as we came to The building up to. The next rapid was The meal contained bacon and this Churn, a set of rapids and falls that could Thunderush, which was where the river bought a Quoll out of the bush into our only be described as wild raging water. At narrowed and the water gathered speed. camp. He was not frightened by us and this point we got out of the raft and This is a dangerous Rapid and is not continued to walk through and around walked around these rapids while both normally run in the rafts. We pulled into our campsite that evening. guides took the rafts down one at a time. the bank before the top of This involved them riding down the first the rapid and unloaded rapids and pulling out into some the heavy top-loaded backwater before a large set of falls. Here items from both rafts. ropes were attached to the front and back These items were carried of the rafts and they were left to go over over the rocks by hand the falls unmanned. They were then past the dangerous pulled into a backwater and the guides section of this rapid. bought them back across the river above Ropes were then attached another large rapid. We then got back in to the rafts and they were and rode them down the last big rapid. pushed out into the flow What a thrill. where they were carried aving got through The Churn, the into the boiling water past next section of the river is called the worst section. The SerenityH Sound, a deep and beautiful rafts were tied up in the gorge that terminates at the head of fast flowing water and Coruscades, the longest set of rapids on reloaded with the the Franklin River. Coruscades consists of supplies. We took our Sidewinder in the Great Ravine

6 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 taking in the natural beauty of the area, I was really glad that the Franklin River Dam had never been built as this beautiful place would have been drowned and lost forever. Today was a short day and there was no urgency to start early. Our first objective was to get past the Cauldron. Because of the size and location of the large boulders blocking the river at the Cauldron it was not practical to get a raft through this section. The supplies were loaded in the Looking down from Eagles Nest rafts, and, with two people in each raft, were taken to a large rock on the far side of the river. Here all supplies were removed from the Day Five rafts and packed on to a large flat rock. This campsite was the most spectacular The rafts were then pulled across this rock we had stayed at. Next morning, looking and dropped back into the river on the out along the Sanctum section of the other side where they were reloaded Great Ravine, a line of white speckled while tied against the fast flowing current. foam snaked its way down the centre of I had walked over the high porterage the gorge like a giant python on the track to photograph the operation. tannin coloured water. As it floated along With everyone back on board we Leaving the Great Ravine with the river flow it continually changed continued down stream through the Inner it shape and pattern but it always and Outer Gates and past the Mouse Hole, where the river flows through. From here remained in the centre of the river. which is a narrow recess with a cat-like there was one small rapid and then we Looking at this it is easy to understand boulder overlooking a waterfall-worn were in Rafters Basin and our camp for how the Aboriginal people came up with niche in the river rock. This was a narrow the next two nights. This is the only pool the rainbow serpent. Along the peaks at section of the river. We also stopped to we saw on the Franklin River. We set up the top of the ravine the mist floated like check out a set of waterfalls that dropped our camp on this pool at the junction of a veil softening the colours of the dawn in into the river through a section of canyon the Franklin River and Interlude Creek. the early morning light. As I sat there just south of the Mouse Hole. The rapids Our thanks to Brett Fernon and his had now reduced in size and ferocity and assistant Josh Waterson who were great we were clear of the Great Ravine. The river guides. Puzzle answer next point of interest was the Biscuit, December 2006

Bluff Tarn near Upper Geehi River KNP River Geehi Upper near Tarn Bluff which is a strata of rock across the river with a bite taken out of the centre section

Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 The Bushwalker | 7 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club Breakfast Creek as you have never seen it before Or What can go wrong on a simple day walk?

Michael Keats Photo at left: The Coxs River.

e met at the Dunphy Carpark on snake (Pseudechis porphyriacus) and it opted for a swim first. The Coxs River is a fine summer morning, was in need of food. Similarly the only not at its best. It was just flowing. There Wchecked everyone had enough goanna (Varanus varius), which shot up a were many tadpoles to be seen including water, had some commentary about the tree in the creek had empty folds of skin a few very close to completing the silver mine we were going to look at, then where there should be a well-rounded transition to frogs. They shot off to the it was all go down the descent into belly. The wild life is doing it tough. shallows as I monopolised the deeper Carlons Creek. During the course of the day we found the water. The pool I was in was just large The most notable and noticeable carcases of 4 wallabies that aspect of the walk in was the openness of presumably had either died the whole valley. Prolonged drought of dehydration or a conditions had removed so much green complete lack of nutrients. matter – even the nettles were just about The rocks in the creek non-existent. Everywhere there were were mostly stained vistas of the Carlon valley I had never reddish brown, possibly noted before. It was as though this was a from an algal bloom that new walk in strange country. The deep had flourished in the final glades that used to be full of ferns were phases of the drying up no longer. It was all dry, dry, dry. process. On the walls of the There was not even a hint of moisture deep holes there were in Carlons Creek from end to end. The big successive tide lines as the dry continued all the way to the junction water level fell and fell. At with Breakfast Creek with side creeks and the point where the bald ridges not normally seen now very walking track cuts off a obvious. Arriving at the junction there was tight loop and mini canyon some expectation that Breakfast Creek in Breakfast Creek, I took Wilf Hildur, before and after would be flowing or at least have the party down the dry significant pools of water. Instead it was river- bed – an experience not often enough to have a few strokes before I was dry, just as Carlons Creek had been dry. available. Chris was heard to declaim, ‘We beached. At least I was now cool. As it was now 10:00, we decided to would look back on this walk down Back on the bank I was dry in seconds have morning tea. The openness of the Breakfast Creek as one of the easiest ever and soon into lunch with gusto. Later Phil area was a shock. Where usually it was done’. had a swim as well. Just before we left necessary to fight your way around the 11:45 and the ‘man-made bench’ Geoff wanted to take a picture of Mounts bushes to switch from the Carlons Creek below the old silver mine filled our sights. Jenolan and Queahgong with the Coxs track to the Breakfast Creek track, it was Taking water, headlight torches and River casuarinas in the foreground. We now a huge, wide and desolate open cameras we set off up the dry ravine to both noted that the sky in that general space. A check of Breakfast Creek showed the opening of the adit. Inside we found direction was darkening rapidly. I not one sign of water with even the three geckos (Phyllurus platurus) and at repeated my nostrum that it was unlikely the terminal end of to rain as we were in the catchment area. the workings a Um… single specimen of 13:45 we started the return trek. The the micro Eastern air was breathless, the humidity rising, Bent Wing Bat, drink stops were frequent. About a third (Miniopterus of the way along the Creek a couple of big schreibersii raindrops fell. They then disappeared. oceanensis) that Then they started again. The sky was quickly moved out of darkening rapidly. It was difficult to see camera range. through the gloom. Several members Several wasp nests prudently stopped to put on wet weather were also identified, gear. Pam asked me if I thought it would some with pupae be heavy. I gave a qualified ‘yes’ but like intact and some John I did not bother to put on a wet recently vacated. weather jacket. A piece of quartz- bout 50 m on Teresa said ‘I think that rich gossan was Ais a hail stone’. She stopped, picked it cracked open with up and sucked its cold surface, confirming the bed of Breakfast Creek another rock to it. Then there were some more. We kept reveal what might walking. Suddenly the heavens opened deepest of holes being bone dry. In the have been the material that sparked the and unleashed a fury of hail like I have whole length of Breakfast Creek down to original interest in the area. It certainly never experienced. We each stopped the Coxs River we counted only 7 small gave off a strong sulphurous, acrid smell under the nearest tree to get some pools of water, most of which were very that hung in the air for some time. After protection from the growing intensity and degraded and polluted. an hour of fruitless activity looking for barrage of hailstones. They were getting The views we had of the banks and the other traces we set off for the Coxs River bigger, some pushing it to nearly 2cm in hillsides were atypical of most bushwalker junction for lunch. diameter. They hurt a lot when they hit. memories of the area. In the course of our 13:00 saw most of the party under The fusillade became heavier, and traverse we encountered only one black the casuarinas munching contentedly. I heavier. We sought protection by placing

8 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club packs strategically as the cold missile attack continued. This was no small storm. Around us the ground was rapidly turning white. The trees above were systematically stripped of leaves and needles. This white fury continued unabated for perhaps 15 minutes. We were all wet to the skin and increasingly chilling. s the onslaught abated we decided Athat we had to keep moving and keep the circulation going. As fingers became warm enough to operate cameras photos were taken. The air was filled with mist and the landscape was pure northern hemisphere Christmas. It was an unbelievable landscape that we now surveyed. The contrast with the dry desiccated scene of an hour earlier, unimaginable. The hailstones formed thick drifts on the ground. I was concerned that they could consolidate into ice and make progress hazardous. Fortunately for us they remained as discrete stones and we refugees, but cheerful ones crunched our way through them. The hour earlier could not have been quick change into dry clothes and the really good thing was that all spaces imagined. singularity of our experience began to between smooth rocks were now filled Arriving at the morning tea site sink in. with temporary white concrete and the (junction of Carlons Creek an Breakfast We had been through something very going was remarkably fast. Creek) we just had to stop and take special. Prospective member Geoff (on his Where the hail had fallen on the higher pictures of the contrasting situation. We first walk with the Bush Club) announced slopes, the ground had been very hot and now looked like refugees that had escaped to all that he was going to book on my a lot of hail soon melted sending small from a prison camp in winter in Central cyclone walk next and, yes, he wanted to ephemeral waterfalls rushing down into Europe. do the sand storm and volcano walks as Breakfast Creek. Many of these refroze as s we climbed up the Carlons Creek well! they entered the colder zone. Those that Atrack, the hail did not provided another joy for us – nice drifts lessened and deep drift of ice- cold water and free ice finally where the old on what was once the track. Soon we got fence line crosses the used to the idea of slushing our way track they forward. Any concerns about how deep it disappeared leaving was were immaterial. We were wet and the track scoured cold anyway in the middle of summer. and the ground The best bits of our progress were temporarily refresh- when the ice cover hid a deeper hole and ed. There had not then the chilling water went into more been enough hail to sensitive areas (they did not remain cause any runoff or sensitive for long as everything chilled to even form pools in rapidly down to the same temperature). the creek bed. Seeing the way forward was a It was a relief that problem, even in a valley as confined as early concerns that Breakfast Creek when everything is white the vehicles would and there are no familiar landmarks. The be hail-damaged mist caused by the mixing of hot and cold were baseless, as the air distorted vision and muffled sound. All hailstorm had been agreed we were in the middle of a unique confined to a very experience. The hail eased off and finally specific area – all stopped leaving a changed world that an down in the valley. A

Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 The Bushwalker | 9 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club The Hippy, the Straight and the Sphinx.

Michael Smith, Nimbin Bushwalkers Club

Photo: Mount Warning from Sphinx Rock

top and we sat there with our first uninterrupted view of Sphinx Rock. At this spot we were on a narrow web of rock that was part of the Mount Warning caldera. If our nerves could take it we had 200 metres to go, along a strip of rock just a few metres wide with a sheer drop on both sides. It had the catenary curve of a suspension bridge, but was covered in grass, lilies and stunted trees. There was no hesitation from either of us, we were being drawn to the Sphinx as if by a string. On the way over I noticed that phinx Rock is between Blue Knob young club, not even a year old, this is the wallabies had grazed even here. We (Mount Burrell) and Mount Neville. first overnighter, only one other person finally got to touch the Sphinx, appearing SI can see it from my place. responds. So it came to pass that Franca as a sheer cliff rising above us. We sat for Returning from a long trip I know I am and I stepped off the bitumen at Mount half an hour without speaking a word. nearly home when Sphinx Rock reveals Nardi and straight into the forest, not to The view was breathtaking. To the north itself, silhouetted against the skyline. I see the sun for the next 5 hours. We was Mount Warning and the nearby want to be near it, spend some time there, wandered down to Pholis Gap, named sisters. To the north-west the Border climb it. I decide to go, but there are after a timber worker Athol Pholi who Ranges and to the south Nimbin Rocks, many barriers to this endeavour. Firstly it was killed here felling a tree. Catbirds call the township of Nimbin and the is mostly surrounded by private land. You from the forest. Is it a warning or a Koonorigan Range. The sun was bright, need permission. Lots of people don’t greeting? We turn left and follow want you up there. It’s their personal Googarna Road, now overgrown with meditation spot, they are self-appointed trees and weeds. Back in the 1980’s protectors of the aboriginal sacred site or Franca drove down this road all the way they just don’t want you to see what’s to the flying fox. She was part of the happening on their land. protest in 1982 that blockaded the Mount A few months ago I joined a group Nardi Road and took on the loggers. She from the Northern Rivers Bushwalking remembers silk-screening the banners. Club who planned a day walk to the The action was successful and logging Sphinx. We got permission from a here was stopped. Community whose land we needed to The next four hours are spent plodding cross and slogged up the slopes of Mount along this remnant of the logging Burrell from the valley floor. After 4 hours infrastructure. Where the canopy opens a we made it to a lookout a few hundred little and lets in sunshine, wild raspberry metres from Sphinx Rock. It was a and lantana thrive. The forest proper is gratifying moment to see the Sphinx, end full of palms, ferns, figs, pademelons, on. Out of time, we had to turn around snakes and scrub turkeys. The latter have (after just 10 minutes) and spend the next built nests 4 metres across and 1.5 metres 4 hours going back down through virgin, high, covering the road completely. No trackless rainforest. Much closer, but not maps are needed, leave the ‘road’ and you good enough. are back in the Big Scrub, dominated by A Bundjalung story tells of a sacred lawyer vines. cave high on the mountain at Blue Knob e have lunch at the flying fox, built (a dangerous place) that was was home to Win 1948 to lower the logs down the an old woman who had a role in training mountain to the Kunghur Sawmill. The Sphinx Rock from a little way off the men who wanted to become clever cable, once 1.6 km long, is still tied to its men. They went to this witch to learn the anchor point. A lot of the massive timber the air clear and the whole place had a things that such men should know. At the structure is still standing and I am mystery and reverence similar to Ayres finish of the training the final test came surprised at the size of the trees that have Rock. This was easily one of the best when the witch threw them over the cliff grown back in the intervening 24 years experiences I have had in 44 years of to see if they could save themselves. since logging was stopped. Forty five bushwalking. Whatever the outcome the witch used her minutes later we reach the lookout that Hoping to summit, we followed a magic power to stop them from coming to reveals the challenge ahead, how to get ledge for about 50 metres on the north harm. up on to the Sphinx. Nobody I spoke to side, but it ended in sheer cliffs. A falcon There is a public corridor in Nightcap could give me any specific directions, only took to the air screeching and tried to see National Park that will take you there: the that you had to go around one side or the us off. It may have been the spirit of the skyline traverse from Mount Nardi to Blue other. old woman, but the message was clear Knob. I have spoken to people who have There was an intervening peak to get enough. We had a look at the southern been out and back in a long day. They say past. We spent an exhausting and fruitless side which appeared to be an almost you have to stride it out. I decide to take hour trying the south side only to be vertical slope covered with trees. It two days and put the trip in The Nimbin stopped at some dangerous cliffs. We looked possible but reckless. Time to find Bushwalkers Club walks programme. A found it was possible to just go over the a campsite. We made it back to the flying

10 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club fox and pitched our home-made tents on a thick layer of leaves, over a fine, loamy Blue Gum Forest Burns Again tilth. As night fell Wampoo Pigeons called Ian Brown are pursuing discussions with RFS, NPWS from the forest, a soapy gargle, the last and others to seek better management of gasp of a drowning man, wam-poo, wam- large and controversial bushfire fires for the future. poo. A sugar glider called from a tree, no burnt the upper Grose Valley last While the ‘fog of fire’ still surrounds the doubt attracted by our lights. ANovember. While thankfully no full story, more facts are becoming clear. Twenty seven years ago Franca left her human lives and property were lost, the fire The first few days were critical to later university art course in Victoria, bought a burnt some 15,000 hectares of Blue events. The fire began with two separate share in the Tuntable Community, lived in Mountains National Park (and World ignitions. A lightning strike was spotted on a tent, knocked up a shack, built a house Heritage Area), much of it to a high Burrakorain Head on 14 November and and had babies. In 1973 I had just intensity, and damaged rare plant sites and attacked by NPWS remote area firefighters. graduated from university and heard of many kilometres of walking track. Fire Good progress was disrupted when their the Aquarius Festival in Nimbin. People, suppression costs were up to $500,000 a two helicopters were diverted to a second hippies some would call them, were day just for aircraft, and the final cost will ignition (suspected lightning) west of coming up here and starting communities. exceed $10 million. The park restoration Darling Causeway in the Hartley Valley. costs and environmental impacts are In a stiff westerly wind, this second fire unknown, but the long-term protection of moved quickly up to the causeway, where Grose Valley ecosystems are threatened by extensive backburning was undertaken. A too-frequent fire. combination of the head fire and backburns Blue Gum Forest burnt in a very hot crossed the road-railway corridor in many head fire on the ‘blowup’ day of 22 locations that night and spread into the November which threw spots 12 km in front national park in the head of the Grose of the fire. It was the third time the near- Valley. These were not contained, and sacred forest has burnt in 24 years (1982, meanwhile the unattended Burrakorain fire 1994 and 2006), and this was the hottest. had also spread significantly. About 80% of the canopy was scorched and he decision was taken to fall back to a most of the understorey removed. The Tlarge area backburn around the north future of many trees is uncertain. of Blackheath and Mount Victoria and These impacts were seen by many as along Bells Line of Road. Several lines unnecessary and produced a groundswell of were attempted to hold the fire across the concern in the Blue Mountains and valley between Pierces Pass and Banks Franca on the abandoned Kunghur Flying Fox conservation communities. Issues included Wall, but more backburn escapes in the failure to suppress the fires while small, worsening conditions caused these to fail. I decided not to, but ended up here the large extent of backburning under One breakout sent fire across Thunder anyway 33 years later. Franca, a severe conditions, the escape of some Gorge towards Mount Tomah and another vegetarian, munches into some nori she backburns, the lack of recognition of near Anvil Rock sent fire into the valley had made earlier. I tell her nothing of my heritage values, the power of the RFS, the towards Blue Gum and around the meal which has home-grown beef in it. cost, the burning of Blue Gum Forest, the escarpment towards Blackheath. Specifically a Murray Grey heifer that I media ‘spin’ and the long-term survival of When all this fire, enlarged by watched being born, lovingly tended for park ecosystems. A particular concern was backburns, blew up on 22 November it ran 18 months and, in an act of betrayal, sent the dominance of road-based strategies and east into the area burnt in the 2002 Mt Hay to the place where the knives are sharp. resources over remote area (helicopter- fire. Low fuels combined with an easterly All our food has a history, a life story. based) firefighting capability. Would weather change enabled close containment greater investment in remote area crews ot much chance of sleeping through to finally work – but the fire also threw have paid off in a much smaller (and spots beyond the 2002 fire to threaten the Nthe first-light chorus of birds in the cheaper) fire? forest. Our packs were significantly lower mountains. A huge extension of the The outcry included a full page backburn to Faulconbridge (and the entire lighter, each of us had brought 6 litres of statement in the local newspaper funded by water. Temperatures of 29 degrees were Grose Valley), pushed by some in the RFS, 143 residents (I was one). It pointed out was only narrowly averted by damp predicted. A first for me was the wearing that the Grose Valley is burning too often, weather and RAFT suppression of the of leather gloves to grasp the thorns that noted the threat of increased fire with spotovers. would ensnare me. Franca carried a pair global warming and called for an The upshot is that all of the upper Grose of seceteurs to deal with the lawyer vines. independent review of the fire. The Sydney Valley from near Mt Hay has been burnt, Either way we had to wait-a-while. Morning Herald ran an ‘expose’ by a local including Govett Gorge and parts of the Mt On the way out we ran into Sandy and journalist, in which Keith Muir of the Hay plateau. The valley and all walking Rob. They were off to do much the same Colong Foundation queried whether Blue tracks between Mt Victoria and Evans walk as we had hoped to do. Their plan Gum had been sacrificed. It also reported Lookout will remain closed until was to sleep on the top of Sphinx Rock disputes within the multi-agency fire team reconstruction can be completed. Whether that night and continue over the top of over how to manage the fire. In the local any of this could have been avoided by Blue Knob, ending on the Blue Springs paper, former NPWS Blue Mountains fire better initial attack or different strategies ecologist Nic Gellie published a critique of Community. They have done the trip will be debated for some time, as will long- the fire control strategies. Most term improvements in fire suppression for before and gave us all the instructions we commentators did not criticise those who needed yesterday. For the time being our national parks. worked on the fire, including many [Ian has attempted to be fairly neutral Sphinx Rock was, for us, an unfinished hundreds of Rural Fire Service (RFS) project. about the RFS management of the volunteers. firefighting as he is still involved in the We soon passed a dozen members of he public reaction from RFS assessment process. I have seen and wept the The Nimbin Bushwalkers Club who TCommissioner Phil Koperberg (who over the carnage inflicted by the methods had come out to meet us on a day walk. was the new state Labor candidate for the used to handle the whole fire incident. They needed to climb a mountain before seat of Blue Mountains) and sitting local Surely we can do better than to control turning back, so we left them to it. member (and Minister for the burn the entire Grose Valley just to protect National Parks have taken all references to Environment) Bob Debus was rapid and a few bits of badly-sited private property? - this track off their brochures and signage. vigorous. They denounced critics, said the Editor] It was good to see it still being used. ‘campaign’ was ‘political’, praised Franca decides to go back and finish her volunteers, refused to acknowledge any Ian Brown is a Bushwalker, former NPWS university art course next year, and I problems (despite the facts) and denied a Ranger and Operations Manager with 20 resolve to try and embrace some of the review. Now that some time has passed, years firefighting experience (mostly in Aquarius values. Nimbin is that sort of and more issues with the fire have come to Blue Mtns) and currently an environmental place. light, local critics and conservation groups consultant

Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 The Bushwalker | 11 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club BWRS Helps in Large Search Doug Floyd and Keith Maxwell Introduction forestry off-cuts covered in lawyer vine. The The water level in the Kedumba River is final line search down a steep slope was controlled by Katoomba sewerage treatment Bushwalkers Wilderness Rescue Squad definitely easier than searching across the works. Unfortunately, the river level was (BWRS) was called out for an 8am start on contours. Still misty rain in the morning but down from when the kayakers were Friday 15th December at Queen Victoria mainly overcast by afternoon with some suggested. After paddling a few pools up Hospital, Kings Tableland Road, Wentworth slight drizzle. Creeks still dry but the high in the system, the remaining 9 km was a Falls. The task was to assist in the search for occasional small pool of dirty water you skull drag over mud and sand (up to the David Iredale, a 17 year old bushwalker, who could have sucked up in desperation. knees in places). The level of the dam is so had been missing since midday Monday. The fact that no clues had emerged after 6 low at the moment. This area needed to be Three boys were doing a 3 day walk over days of searching was puzzling and meant we checked, so thanks to them for a job well Mt Solitary as an unapproved practice walk needed to have a wide search so we could done. for their Duke of Edinburgh gold trip. tick off areas. No result of any kind so far! The BWRS search area was extremely Sunday night they camped on Mt Solitary but The Troop Carrier carried in fresh water steep with cliffs and very rocky, broken could not find water. So they were out of and food from the Salvation Army Emergency sometimes steep ground. This made the water when they started the descent to the Services Catering Unit now at the Queen going very tough. Some parts required very Kedumba River, where they knew there was Victoria search base. BWRS personnel from competent people to go back and search water. They had purification tablets because Friday had to conserve their food supplies in some of the cliffs without day packs. the water is polluted from Katoomba sewage. case they needed to go out overnight Fortunately the vegetation was sparse. Near midday the boys rested at a spot somewhere else. The BWRS task was completed before perhaps about 15 – 20 minutes away from lunch. During lunch we overheard radio the water. For some reason David went traffic confirming that a body had been found ahead of his companions. He rang “000” a Sunday – day 7 which was probably David. A very sombre short time later saying he was lost. There This was a warm, sunny day tending to hot team packed up and filed back to their were some more “000” phone calls over a by midday. The task was to conduct a transport. short period. The other two boys continued contact line search of the more southern part walking and when David wasn’t at the of the area searched on Friday (between the location where the track crosses the river, fire trail and the first major creek). About 10 Conclusion they assumed he had gone ahead again and am BWRS met a combined SES / RFS team in The task of finding David was achieved, continued up the track towards the fire trail. the same area. BWRS was then re-tasked to although all searchers would have preferred A rescue party met the two boys. This was the corresponding area east of the Kedumba to have found David alive. They naturally the first time they knew that David was River. This has some much steeper country felt ‘flat’ after such a sustained effort. missing. A search was commenced that with much loose footing. Black snakes were However, this outcome must be of some continued into Tuesday, Wednesday, seen on the banks of the Kedumba River comfort as in south west Tasmania there still Thursday, with absolutely no trace of David. (surprise, surprise). One footprint size 7-8 are unlocated bushwalkers. (BWRS assisted was sighted in a Lyre Bird mound track trap in the search for Wade Butler near Friday – day 5 and noted. Details were radioed back to Precipitous Bluff in 1995) search HQ. The tasks given the two BWRS teams At the time of writing, conjecture only is Many BWRS members had to return home possible regarding the death of David. At 17 (assuming that David was looking for water) so Kedumba Crossing was abandoned. took them into a close search of the creek David was too young to have done much Remaining BWRS members stayed (for bushwalking and have much stamina for systems south of the foot track and then a security reasons) with the BWRS tent and general search of all the other ridges and walking in hot, dry weather. The lack of other equipment at Queen Victoria Hospital. clues suggests that David was suffering from creeks in the area. The BWRS Toyota Troop During Sunday the Troop Carrier drove along Carrier joined other vehicles in the extensive heat stroke (not thinking clearly) and may fire trails to the south and west of Mt have died quite quickly. movement of personnel in and out of the Solitary. Great drive along usually closed Kedumba Valley via the (normally locked) Over 30 members of BWRS assisted for access roads but no sightings. one or more days of the five days that we Kedumba Pass road. A late afternoon quick search was The area was steep in parts with were involved. We completed our tasks with conducted along the Kedumba River south of obvious professionalism and dedication that numerous small waterfalls and cliffs in the Kedumba Crossing by a combined team of water courses; some scrubby places with was appreciated by David’s family. Our NSW Cave Rescue, Blue Mountains Climbers BWRS headquarters tent was able to provide lawyer vine but generally fairly open under a Rescue (BMCR) group and BWRS. The canopy of tall trees, with lots of fallen timber shelter for David’s parents in the heat and evening feed, again provided by the Salvation rain of this search. and the occasional rock outcrop to search. Army, was much appreciated. Despite the continuous drizzly rain there was This has been one of the biggest searches very little pooled water even in rock in the Blue Mountains for quite a few years. depressions that would normally be a pool. Monday – day 8 We were all impressed at how well it was run Later in the day BWRS did a more general with such large numbers from so many search of the remainder of their allotted area, A pleasant clear night and warm day. The different agencies. The sheer number of concentrating on the creek systems and task was a contact line search of an area east volunteers from all agencies over the many ridges between which included checking the of the Kedumba River north of the foot track days was staggering. There were personnel deep pools of the Kedumba River and the up to the fire road. The area is extremely from SES, RFS (Rural Fire Service) and Blue thick vegetation along its banks. Generally steep with some large water falls, lots of layer Mountains Climbers Rescue group. BWRS this area was not as steep but did have more vine, difficult creek beds and much broken was allowed to call in assistance from several vegetation and fewer tall trees. rocky country, very steep dirt banks in parts. other VRA Squads to maintain the overall BWRS personnel camped at Kedumba Very difficult country to search thoroughly. level of VRA personnel present. BWRS Crossing. This good camp site was Water levels in the Kedumba River mean a would like to thank NSW Cave Rescue, South reasonably flat with plenty of wood beside kayak search of the lower reaches of the river Coast and Cessnock VRA for their assistance. flowing water that unfortunately was unfit to may be possible. Two kayakers (suggested by drink. BWRS) from Wollongong were contacted by Police for an early start on Tuesday. [Editor's note: subsequent information suggests that David may have become lost on Saturday – day 6 the initial descent from the col at Solitary Extra BWRS personnel along with four NSW Tuesday – day 9 Lookout, going straight down the hill on Cave Rescue members arrive as New information meant a change of tactics animal tracks rather than sideways at the reinforcements. The task was to do a was required. The task for a combined team foot of the cliffs to the crest of the spur. More thorough line search (in one big team of 17) of NSW Cave Rescue, BMCR and BWRS was a than a few bushwalkers have been caught of the area west of that searched on Friday up close-order search either side of the Mt this way - including your Editor! It seems to the cliffs below Mt Solitary. The area had Solitary track from top to bottom and some David may have fallen and died the first day, some cliffs and was generally very rugged adjacent areas. BMCR also have a team to although this remains with the Coroner to country, including logged areas with lots of the south side of the BWRS area. determine.]

12 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club The Adventure Activity Standards and the Anti-Parks Lobby An Update by Adventure Victoria 5) The AAS threatens recreation access through communication, networking [Reproduced here as a warning to all walkers and to public land and this is one of AV’s main and representation. & encourage safe Clubs in NSW - Ed.] reasons for opposing the AAS project in its and fun involvement in outdoor current form. It is ironic that the ORC pursuits at all levels through You might be aware that in its September should belatedly attach itself to the pro- information education and direction. report on the Adventure Activity access bandwagon while doggedly However as part of these aims it is Standards, the Outdoor Recreation Centre persisting in the AAS as it is. important to inform the industry of lent strong support to two lobby groups 6) This development forces Adventure initiatives that may be of interest to that are campaigning on an anti-parks Victoria to take a position on the individuals within the outdoor platform in the Victorian elections. Many underlying issue. We do so with little industry. I apologise to anyone who in the outdoors community, regardless of difficulty. We believe that the vast was offended by the circulation of this their view on the AAS issue, will find this majority of our members are pro-parks information.’ disturbing. and pro-conservation. As a committee, we Adventure Victoria obtained the following Recreation Environment Group (REG) hold the view that remote and natural from the websites of the two is opposing the Greens on an anti-national areas are integral to the activities that we organisations: parks platform. Push for the Bush lobbies promote and represent. Further we ‘The Recreational Environment against national parks, land management believe that our broader social Group is an alliance of recreational related controls generally, the Greens and responsibility requires us to support land users of public land in Victoria who are the current Victorian government. The and nature conservation measures very concerned about the likelihood of ORC has expressed its backing for both regardless of the compromises that might politicians from the ‘Greens’ political these organisations under the AAS and they might impose from time to time on party holding the balance of power in Victorian Government banners. our recreation. Adventure Victoria is pro- Victoria’s Upper House following the In a subsequent circular, the ORC has national parks and supports conservation state election on the 25th November, now said that is was simply passing on in land management. 2006. To stop this happening, REG will information rather than expressing The following excerpts provide the be contesting two seats in the Victorian support. The original statement is quoted background. First, from AAS Update No. Upper House.’ below and you can judge for yourself. 28, Sept 2006: ‘We want to ensure that the Also, the ORC now says that the opportunity to participate in organisations in question are not political ‘Getting political traditional outdoor activities is protected, as is the environment in and want only to support access to crown The ORC Victoria has received land. This is not so and their natures are which they are conducted. Recent information regarding two separate years have seen a ‘lock-up and lock- plain to see. Their websites are quoted initiatives that are being established to out’ mentality in relation to Victoria’s below and you can check their websites. put some power back into the hands public land. ‘Lock-up’ areas in national Adventure Victoria has several points of the many individuals (and parks, marine parks etc and ‘lockout’ to make. organisations) that depend upon recreational activities.’ 1) We do not wish to deny anyone the access to Victorian crown land for ‘The Green policies for the opportunity to make a mistake and make their livelihood and/or simply for November election include establishing amends. But the ORC’s statement was not their sanity (recreational access). more national parks, alongside giving a slip of the tongue. It was unequivocal Though these are distinct free heroin to addicts. REG’s focus is and unambiguous. It said what it said and initiatives they are worthy of mention on encouraging people to participate it obviously meant it. It is extremely in this part of the AAS update because in healthy, outdoor activities - rather unlikely that it did not know the policies you may wish to contact, join, support than those at the end of a deadly of these organisations. But if not, why or even help lead these worthy causes. needle.’ does it now pretend that these The similarity seems to be that they And organisations have a narrow and both support the need to conservation ‘What we [Push for the Bush] stand innocuous focus when their websites show and careful land management but, for …Fighting for public land access, plainly that they are party political and particularly relevant in the upper sorting out “the neighbours from hell” oppose national parks? house, they wish to place a voice that [DSE and Parks Victoria], alpine 2) The ORC made a mistake in can clearly be heard supporting the grazing, better fire management, principle. It now acknowledges that it absolute need for public having access supplying Victoria’s timber needs, should not air its political views under the to public land now as well as in the private land rights, farmers, irrigators, banner of a government funded project. future. fishing, horse riding and especially exposing the hypocrisy and danger of Whether principle is the reason for the For more information you can the Greens’ party policies.’ ORC’s backdown or fear of jeopardising contact the ORC or the newly future grants, we can’t know. ‘The current review of the permit established ‘Recreational system for organisations conducting a 3) It is false for the ORC to represent Environmental Group (REG) or The these groups now as simply pro-access. trade or business upon crown land and ‘Push for the Bush’ campaign led by the increased push to upgrade state to The aim of the Recreation Environment the Mountain Cattlemen. Group is to remove impediments to National Parks threatens or is inappropriate vehicular access to sensitive ORC subsequently issued a denial in AAS perceived to threaten the available areas. The aim of Push for the Bush is to Update No. 29, Oct 2006: land for Victorian community groups remove management controls on a host of ‘In the last update we added a and individuals to undertake their recreation and commercial activities. Both section called “Getting political”. This leisure activities.’ are openly and fiercely anti-Greens and was to pass on information we had The policy of Adventure Victoria in anti-parks. I don’t like to paraphrase, so received from two groups lobbying for relation to Adventure Activity Standards please read their websites for yourself. access to crown land. These were is that the question of standards for 4) We do not reproach the ORC for Recreation Environment Group (REG) amateur recreation should be removed representing their eighteen or so and Push for the Bush. We received from the scope of the AAS. Relevant members, one of whom is the driving some comments that the ORC should representative bodies should be free to force behind REG, and perhaps many of not be supporting such groups and create such guidelines only if it suits their whom support the anti-parks philosophy. reminding us that we are not a needs and should be free to create But insofar as the ORC operates its political organisation. In this issue I relevant, satisfactory guidelines specific to Adventure Activity Standards project it just want to re-assure readers that the their circumstances. purports to represent a vastly wider ORC has no political allegiances other Rod Costigan stakeholder group. It is an abuse to than lobbying all to all groups to President, Adventure Victoria (Bush and promote its political/philosophical encourage the development of the Mountain Recreation Association of Victoria) positioning through the AAS project. outdoor recreation industry in Victoria http://www.adventurevictoria.org

Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 The Bushwalker | 13 Walk Safely—Walk with a Club

Mountain.” This could be interpreted as The From The mail bag. . . Mouins generally, or Mount Mouin specifically, but supporting evidence again is “Green Mountains”, where he stated that for needed. Defending Dunphys upwards of seventy years the ‘granite’ peak of I would suggest a cautious approach to Yellow Dog had been known by his father’s any proposed wholesale revision or “clean Nomenclature name. This fact though does not appear to sweep” of Dunphy’s nomenclature as Jim Smith (see “Myles Dunphy and William have been communicated to bushwalkers recommended by Jim Smith in his article. For Cuneo: Two Misguided Nomenclaturists of the prior to this, nor am I aware of any map or instance I am not sure what would be Blue Mountains” Place Names Australia, earlier reference to corroborate the claim, achieved by modifying Dunphy’s March 2006, and The Bushwalker, Winter although Bert Carlon (adopted son of “Green ‘aboriginalised’ names such as Morriberri 2006) takes aim at Myles Dunphy for his Gully” pioneer Norbert Carlon) restated it in a Pass. The allegation that such names mock nomenclatural work in the Blue Mountains, letter to the Geographical Names Board in aboriginal language should be discounted. accusing him of stealing names and 1968 when he pointed out that “Yellow Dog Myles delighted in aboriginal words: misappropriating others. Ridge was always Peter O’Reilly Range.” aboriginal languages and English are replete I personally believe that Dunphy’s It should be taken into account that with borrowings from one another. The nomenclature was a great achievement. He Dunphy and Alan Rigby (who were at the ‘aboriginalising’ of Maurice Berry’s name is an was neither anthropologist nor historical forefront of bushwalker explorations in the example of Dunphy’s recognition and researcher, but his mapping and area) both approached Norbert Carlon, appreciation for aboriginal linguistic euphony, nomenclature brought the Blue Mountains to Burragorang-bred resident of “Green Gully” and should be left as such. life to a wider public, not least to those who since 1908, for information. Before Dunphy Dunphy was determined there be a future desired to experience the mountains with coined “The Wild Dogs”, the region was for wilderness in the Blue Mountains. To him minds sympathetic to its appreciation and referred to by some bushwalkers as The blank spaces on the map without named preservation. Mouins, and I suspect Norbert Carlon to have features were vulnerable to unsympathetic To the best of his abilities Myles tried to been the likely source for this name. At that exploitation and destruction, and who is to preserve as many of the authentic old names time Dunphy and Rigby referred to the three say he was wrong? His nomenclature made as he could. He may have made some main peaks as Mouins One, Two and Three. bushwalkers aware of the history in the mistakes but many authentic old names are Dunphy thought the name Mouin should best mountains, and gave them a sense of their known to us today because Myles preserved apply to Mt. Mouin itself, I think with some own part in it. The claim that Dunphy was them. It was Myles’ policy to give aboriginal justification. He named Mouins Two and misguided is just not true. He did not get names precedence and to the best of his Three Mounts Warrigal and Dingo everything right, but what he achieved with ability he did so. If he did not know the respectively. This was the beginning of his his nomenclature showed great foresight for aboriginal name for every ridge and range it is ‘Dogs’ theme which was developed on the its time. His maps and nomenclature were because no individual from his time or before basis of older cattlemen’s names in the vicinity important cornerstones for decades of had the resources to make such a study. If such as Black Dog and probably also White conservation work which time has vindicated Dunphy did not know the aboriginal system of Dog. This to me is one example that shows in the achievement of the Greater Blue names, it is likely that few, if any, of his local Dunphy, if inventive, was also a thoughtful Mountains World Heritage Area. informants did either. nomenclaturist. Colin Gibson The task of obtaining genuine local names According to Alan Rigby, Norbert Carlon was not always straightforward. The fact is maintained that stockmen never ventured into that some of Dunphy’s local informants were The Mouins as the place provided little feed not very good sources of information when it for livestock. Carlon considered that the few came to place names. Generations of settlers walkers who explored the tops were probably and cattlemen had filled the countryside with the first people to do so. This they might or ‘Rocky’, ‘Stony’, ‘Stockyard’ and ‘Breakfast’ might not have been. A few years ago I asked Nomenclature of the creeks. These names were not so set in stone last of the Cox’s River men, the late Ben as some might think, and could be applied Esgate, who spent a lot of his youth in the Blue Mountains fluidly. A feature with such a name might also Megalong and Cox’s River regions in the Re the article by Jim Smith — be known to some by the name of the settler 1920s and 30s, for his view on the claim of Can the word ‘contentious’ be removed from family who lived there, and there was no precedence for ‘Peter O’Reilly Range’. Ben was the debate about the nomenclature of the Blue certainty that the family at the opposite end of somewhat dismissive of it, saying in fact he Mountains please? the valley used the same names. could not recall his mentor Norbert Carlon (an As a bushwalking/environment movement Dunphy found some good sources of O’Reilly relative) using the term. It is that claims an empathy with the natural information in men such as Bill Morton, therefore possible that if the name was in use world, I think we can support the renaming of manager of Colong Station. But others such as it was, in the main, used by the O’Reilly clan the Blue Mountains to indigenous names Timothy Brennan (1851-1938) of Oberon who and that it left the district when the family where they exist and are desired by local knew Kanangra and Burragorang well and transferred to Queensland towards the end of indigenous people. This ned not diminish the could talk horses all night, were not so the 1st World War, when Bernard O’Reilly contribution of Myles Dunphy and William forthcoming. After drawing blank on a was in his early teens. It was in fact a voice Cuneo to conservation. number of questions put to him by Dunphy, from Queensland (Bernard’s) rather than (as Having just finished reading ‘Blood on the the questioner did not quite know what to far as I understand it) a clamour from the Wattle’ by Bruce Elder, I am very conscious of make of it when Brennan told him that Megalong that first put forward the claim of the human and cultural annihilation imposed Burragorang pioneer John Lacy and his precedence for ‘Peter O’Reilly Range’. upon Indigenous People, and of the land theft friends called Kanangra (which presumably In light of this I think the proposition by throughout our Australian History. Indigenous they were able to view from the rim of the Jim Smith and others (see Michael Keat’s “Day People are still fighting for their land - the Burragorang) ‘Mini Mini’ (though we know Walks In Therabulat Country”, 2006) to name very least we can do is to become involved in the earliest name, recorded by Govett, to be the entire backbone of The Wild Dog a reconciliation process of renaming the Thurat). Dunphy was incredulous that a man Mountains from the end of Narrow Neck to landscape. Let’s move forward and heal the who seemed only capable of refering to the the bottom of Yellow Dog ‘Peter O’Reilly past. names of the major creeks in the same area in Range’ a big call. If this is to be justified Meredith Brownhill terms of ‘the left creek’ and ‘the right creek’ substantiation is required for unconvincing could come up with assertion like that. We statements such as the one in Jim Barrett’s Comment might have reason to doubt the veracity of “The Place Names of the Blue Mountains and Burragorang Valley” 1994: “During the annual I doubt the word ‘contentious’ can be removed Brennan’s claim (or even of Dunphy’s from the debate as many people strongly interpretation of it) but on the other hand, if musters at Konangaroo Clearing… Peter disagree with the proposals. Brennan’s statement is indeed reliable (and O’Reilly (father of Bernard) would often look Countries have been invaded, conquered presuming ‘Mini Mini’ to be aboriginal) then up and admire the hump across the river and and renamed for thousands of years all around perhaps it is that the aborigines themselves he eventually became (probably) the first to the world. It is a fact of life. These names have sometimes had more than one name for climb it.” This statement has more the ring of been in use for long enough. specific features. supposition to it than it does of actual fact, yet The First Fleet arrived here over two Names can also be buried deeply in local it is included twice in Michael’s book. Michael hundred years ago: many generations have lore. Such, I think, could be the case with also cites unspecified and undated personal passed since then. Surely it is time we stopped Bernard O’Reilly’s belief that Yellow Dog notes prepared by Jim Smith, in which it is living in the past and moved on into the 21st Ridge (at the centre of Dunphy’s Wild Dog stated categorically – “The residents of the century. This land belongs to us ALL now. We Mountains) had for long been known as Peter Burragorang and Megalong Valleys called the should ALL call ourselves Australians, with O’Reilly’s Range. Bernard O’Reilly (1903- mountain which, at the end of Narrow Neck, equal rights and equal opportunities for ALL. 1975) made this known in 1954 in his book separates the two valleys, Peter O’Reilly’s Editor

14 | The Bushwalker Volume 32, Issue 1, Summer 2007 Best Brands Best Range Best Advice Photo: MVP / Taryn Miller Taryn / MVP Photo: Cameron Barrie crossing the Snowy River en route to Blue Lake. Blue to route en River Snowy the crossing Barrie Cameron

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