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Diving the Ancient Mayan Underworld Is Located in the South of the Contiguous Mexican States

Diving the Ancient Mayan Underworld Is Located in the South of the Contiguous Mexican States

Riviera Maya The Yucatan Peninsula the Ancient Mayan Underworld is located in the south of the contiguous Mexican states. The ground here is heated by the tropical —35°C makes for a hot and impassable jungle. The bogs—littered with iguanas, snakes and crocodiles— are drying up. A rare trop- ical storm suddenly and unexpectedly flies up from the Sea. Black clouds, peals of thunder, bright lighting, squalls of wind and rain last no more than 15–20 minutes and again the damp stuffy mind- melting of the stifling heat returns. It is not the best place to dwell for the white man. But this land saw an era over 1000 years ago, when it was occupied by a surprisingly small-in-stature, dark-skinned people—the Maya. Text by Andrey Bizyukin Edited by Gunild Symes Photos by Andrey Bizyukin Brigitte Veldman, J P Bresser Alexander Andrianov and Peter Symes

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Mayan ruins; The coast of Yukatan; The mysterious under- world of the ancient Mayan people PREVIOUS PAGE: Diver explores

The Mayans completely adapted to the conditions of their environment, with superb observations of the around them, learning to cultivate maize and settling sea, everywhere smiling cheerful area does not exceed 18 meters, and in throughout their lands. In homage people with , snorkels, masks the vicinity of the city, there is only one to their Gods, they constructed and cylinders on their backs, a wreck. But one can see the same diving temples, pyramids and observatories. casino, noisy discos, night clubs pleasures you can find here in any other They developed an alphabet and and the popular Mexican bullfight place around Caribbean basin. So why wrote texts. They devised their every Wednesday. There are do experts recommend coming to this own calendar, composed legends huge divers’ supermarkets where location? To go here only for sea diving? and wrote down history of unique it is possible to buy everything one Definitely not. So why then, during the peoples. Mayans have maintained needs for diving. There are fleets high season, do 70,000 visitors come their unique guttural language and of dive heading out to sea when all the local hotels have put up the the original tenets of their culture up every morning with enthusiastic “sold out” notice? Why do these people to times. skin divers onboard. choose Cancun and the Riviera Maya? Over 30 years ago, the government Certainly, there is interesting The answer to this question is that only of made a decision that for everyone in plunging into here, on the Riviera Maya, is it possible to changed the life of its native peoples. the underwater world of the see one of the truly great diving miracles The government set out to construct , to admire the of the world—the surprising and exciting a new on the southeast coast multi-colored tropical fishes, to world of the underwater of the of the Yukatàn Peninsula on a place place where the Mayan god lives), and are popular vacation spots and make- dive in thickets of soft , to take Yukatàn. hitherto unknown in a small village. includes the area adjoining it which has up the diving capital of the Mexican pleasure in the strongest sea currents An old Mayan legend tells a story The city is now known as Cancun, which been built up with luxurious hotel—the Caribbean islands. Here, one will find around and to explore the underwater about how the gods, when they created translated from the Mayan language Riviera Maya. smart hotels, splendid palm trees, - bronze guns of Spanish galleons even the land, filled the peninsula with fresh means “the nest of the Snake” (or the Today Cancun and the Riviera Maya white beaches of , the azure though the maximal diving depth in this , which they say is the “blood”

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feeding the ground of the Maya. When caves have become the focus of mass and it is necessary for all participants on cave divers dive in water with a visibility collapses within a cave, pilgrimages of skin divers from all over the excursion to have an of no less than 10 meters, a depth of no freshwater (in the Maya language the world. Open Water certificate. more than 33 meters and a distance is “”) become the inputs to People that come here in the hottest from the ’s entrance of no more the magical underground world of the part of the day will take pleasure in Cenote Etiquette than 65 meters. Often, the dive group’s ancient Mayan gods. In the past, during the crystal clear cool (+24°C) At the entrance of the cenotes, departure is a distance of 300-400 seasons of heavy draught, cenotes were and swim for a while at the mouth of a you will have to hear a meters for 35-40 for Mayans the unique, sacred sources of cavern with only a mask, a and a short lecture on how to minutes from fresh water. Here, at the cenotes edge, small torch in hand. Those who are more correctly do the kick the entrance Mayan priests made human sacrifices brave dive here with a skilled guide—an with your fins, how to of the cave, and dumped the bodies of the victims instructor with one cylinder behind his show signals by torch, and on into the caverns. From here, they took back and a noisy cheerful company how to use a guide line many sites water for irrigating maize fields. But the of friends. The rules of cave diving are and how to use the of such terrible pagan customs are long past simple enough: one guide should have “one third” tank rule. routes, gone in history, and now the underwater no more than four underwater tourists, As a rule, beginning there is

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Mayan warrior dances to invoke the spirits; Divers explores cenote caverns; Cenote welcome sign 25 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Riviera Maya

absolutely no daylight visible. “sit on an adrenaline needle” for a During these routes, it is always long time. possible to find several air chambers under the arch of a cave or outputs in Cave Diving Tourism dry cave halls. The popularity of cave Perfectly organized mass cave diving diving here has become so great that tourism is the brightest distinctive all dive centers offer similar rounds and feature and unconditional advantage will organize excursions almost daily. In of Cancun and Riviera Maya dive the afternoon, at an input to a cenote, centers. It is a real cave diving it is sometimes possible to see the lines paradise. To be on the Yukatàn and of several divers who are waiting for never dive the underwater caves is an opportunity just to begin a dive. to miss an opportunity to achieve a People go cave diving here only for diver’s greatest success. the pleasure of it. This is the reason why On the peninsula today, it is known it is has become so attractive for so that there are over 3,000 cenotes, many people. entrances to underwater limestone Underwater caves expand the labyrinths. Through the efforts of many diver’s erudition and open for them the brave cave divers, it was possible to Nah Chich, one of the longest cave mysterious world of the Mayan culture. prove that many of these cenotes diving labyrinths, having a total extent What you will see here completely were connected with each other and of underwater passages of more than contradicts preconceived opinions… had a general hydrological system. 68 kilometers. And in the deepest that cave diving is only for the elite— This means that if you dive in one of cave system, Dos Ojos, a depth of 106 groups of single-minded people who these cenotes, you can find an exit on meters has already been reached. always put on black equipment and the surface far from the place where Modern explorations and scientific cannot live without the feeling of you started your dive and come out in research confirms the old Mayan constant danger… those who like to another part of the jungle. So Nohoch legend about the huge underground THIS PAGE: Divers swim through passages and narrow crevasses. INSET: Ancient Mayan art 26 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED RIGHT: Divers traverse the stony landscapes of the Mayan underworld; Dancers perform traditional Mexican dances: LOWER RIGHT Riviera Maya travel INSET: A cenote sits silently in the jungle

river which connects together all checking equipment functionality the cenotes of the peninsula. It and capacity, one’s own and is my opinion whatever it is that one’s buddy’s regulators, gauges, exists here under the Yukatàn torches, reels, etc., as as will be explored, and one of complete a bubble check. Once the greatest underwater cave again we repeat the dive plan, systems of the world will be and then we commence the discovered. Even though our time dive. was short here, our team decided Water tenderly embraces us, to try to make a few research fins wave easily, and we plunge dives into some of the most into the delightful known cenotes. world of Dos Ojos. We do a Cenote Dos Ojos circle of the A one-and-a-half-hour race with a small minibus at high-speed on a -surfaced road takes us to a huge sign with the inscription “Welcome to the magic cenotes world”. We turn off onto a dirt road which winds into a dense jungle. Reed huts and native people are at patrol. We brake, exchange greetings and pay eight dollars to a person for the right to stay on their land and the permission to dive here. Another couple or three kilometers of ground, and we are at the site. With anticipation, we jump out from the vehicle and run to examine the limestone collapse. We find vertical walls covered with moss, roots of trees hanging perimeter of Entrance . down and collecting Solar beams play and water from the shimmer in the water and underground on the walls of the collapse. lake at the Underwater labyrinths open bottom of the pool from different directions. where every stone is Above the entrance, visible. It would be great to hanging like the huge teeth of a take a dip right now, but dragon, are conical black . we are limited in time, and Our Mexican colleague, Huan, finds it is necessary to prepare the gold guide line and fixes a our equipment. jump-reel onto it. He then invites us As always, we run to continue the dive. We begin to through the habitual journey into the gloom, switch on our procedure of HID torches from which bright blue light

27 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Performers in tra- ditional Mayan Riviera Maya travel costume emanates filling the Without cave training and of a prehistoric shark hanging around caverns all around cave equipment, divers can his neck and an upper body covered us. Visibility of the die here.” It is obvious that it is with tattoos. He’s a water is more an advertisement for selling really big fan than 20 meters, cave diving education of sharks and we soar courses. Passing it, we take and cave over sandy some photographs and diving. We dunes into the continue on our path. joke, that underground branch and all he . the yellow guide line Our way is looks endless. The stock blocked by a of air in our twin sets steadily disturbing sign with an expires to “one-third”. We image of an old woman—she is understand that only more Death with a scythe in a bony skilled teams of cave hand. The inscription on it says: divers can pass this point. “More than 300 divers, including Dos Ojos is not easy open water scuba instructors, to navigate. So, it is have died here in caves time for us to go just like this one. You need back. training to dive. You need We are met by cave training and cave divers equipment to cave dive. at the cenote’s entrance. They are entertained by the sight of us, as if we are some kind of heroes with doubles coming back from the underground depths. They have the same enthusiastic interest in our group that visitors at a circus might have, who, for the first time, see an elephant. They examine us and our equipment. Some of them even dive toward us to check us out or even to shake our hands. Grand Cenote Our friend, Rahelio, looks like a tough guy—short cropped hair, ears sticking out of his head, a chain with the tooth

ABOVE: A group of snorkelers meet the team of Cave diver and writer, cave divers as they emerge from the depths Andrey Bizyukin after a good dive 28 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Gifts for Two travel Riviera Maya Valentines Cards Candy Boxes & Gifts Just for Divers by Divers

Works by Scott Bennett Sue Duda Ralph Hagen Carlos Hiller Kitti Narod Peter Symes Nonoy Tan

... soon to come Skincare from skynICELAND

Performer in traditional Mayan costume invokes the spirits Underwater photographer hovers under stalagtites.

needs now is a ring in his nose. to say goodbye to the daylight. Large cave are Rahelio gives us a signal that Despite all of this exuberant body A great number of a most exotic disturbed by our bright lights and we have come close to the goal décor, Rahelio is still a fine cave array of cave formations confronts majestically withdraw back into of our journey, so we add some . us—forms that seem inspired by the darkness. We are already speed. The opportunity to find He suggests that we dive Grand a god’s amazing imagination— quite far from the entrance, but something new in the cave gets Cenote, a grandiose cenote including a plethora of stalactites, from time to time we meet small us carried away like bloodhounds. indeed, where we will dive as , columns, limestone silvery fishes. They follow us into But suddenly, my buddy’s primary Fill this box by far as it is possible. We reach curtains and simple thin hollow tubes the depths of the cave or swim torch starts to blink and then Batik artist Sue Duda with the next limestone collapse and (spaghetti). There is simply no place back to meet us. What is the switches off. Mentally, I take into chocolate fish or maple sugar seashell locals collect an entrance fee free of limestone formations. reason that has brought them consideration that he might have candies for your ocean loving loved one from us. With a wide step, we As always, in serious caves, we here? Why are they bewitched insufficient light to be accurate in enter the clearest, cleanest lake are met with a menacing poster: by the gloom of the cave gloom navigating the cave, but I believe I have ever seen. It is teaming “Stop: Diving beyond this point is just like us? How are they guided that it should be enough for him The X-RAY MAG Store with darting little fish. Huge stone only possible for specially trained here without daylight? It is a riddle to use just a few small back-up A percent of all sales goes columns block the entrance to divers”. We certainly accept the of nature. lights to continue the dive. But the cave. We swim between charges on our account and in the back of my mind, I think in to ocean conservation them and take a quick look back continue the dive. Mayan sculpture this particular spot of the cave, www.cafepress.com/xraymag

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THIS PAGE: Scenes from the cenote caverns. RIGHT: Sunset over Yucatàn

was an “ambush”. Cenote Chac Mool exciting dives of our trip. Instead of exploring The huge influence that ancient beliefs There is a narrow underwater further, we have to of the Maya have on the modern culture passage. We squeeze into it to follow our legs away of Mexico is evidenced in the symbol of our guide and come into the next from here. In this the eagle holding a snake in its claws. cenote. is seen again. The incident, we feel It is the symbol of Chac Mool, one of smooth surface of a silent forest lake something abnormal, the supreme Mayan gods, the god of a is above us, and green crowns of even mystical, rain and lighting. He is represented even trees are visible though the incredible into our bodies, and then continue on happened. It may on the national flag Mexico. Our next clear water. our path to acquaint ourselves with the be just that the great journey is to the Cenote Chac Mool. We pass through narrow underwater cave. Grand Cenote We are again in the jungle, and tunnels from cenote into cenote, Underwater tunnels, narrow passages, something is bound to go wrong. Five decided not to share its secrets with us ancient worn stone steps take us into the admiring the play of light and shadow. huge stones of a fallen arch and the minutes later, my primary light shuts down casual visitors. depths of the next cave we will explore. But soon our road leads far under the gloom of the cave—it all seems to us as well—the best HID torch on the market A small freshwater turtle met us An is hidden under arch of the cave. We proceed deeper already to get a little monotonous after with the highest reliability rating, which I on the entrance from the cave. As a stone arch. A few shafts of daylight into the cave and hit a . The just a few cave diving days, but at the never doubted. Go figure. indemnification for an unsuccessful dive, pass through a narrow crack somewhere feeling is like being pierced though a next turn we stop with sheer delight. A Rahelio looks at us with wonder when we follow her, take some pictures and above us. Careful not frighten away the liquid mirror. All of a sudden, it gets toasty huge, absolutely black cavern gapes we switch on our secondary lights of enjoy diving on the border of light and underground spirits, we enter silently into warm (+28°C). The water reminds me before us, and a laser beam of light— poorer quality and understands that it darkness. the and begin one of the most of warm milk. We stop to take the heat similar to the blue light of the swords of

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Maps of the Yucatan; Hibiscus flower; Mayan ruins at overlooking the Caribbean Sea

The first Europeans visited the island in 1510 when one of the Spanish ships wrecked at its coast. Only two of the crew survived. One of them was Gonzales Ortega who accepted the to entice tourists. All the other parts of the island to satisfy any, even the most Mayan culture, lived on the island, island are covered by jungle, and there exacting of divers. Dive centers are married an Indian princess, had children are also ruins of Maya pyramids. located in each of the 21 hotels on and eight years later, together with the There are 39 reefs surrounding the the island. They carry compressed air, native people, fought against the and . Divers will find even to touch it with our Spaniards. The second time the fascinating down to hands. island was explored was in 1518 five meters just off the beach as well as We try to take by a Spanish expedition under the good diving on wrecks with penetration, photographs of the command of a nephew of the underwater flights in currents with five beam, and each stop governor of . Forty-thousand knots speed or 100-meter walls for closer to the beam to natives lived on the island at technical divers with . The island be better than previous. that time, but in a few years of survives only due to the dive-industry. Hence, we spend all our war, not more 300 individuals Yes, everything is more expensive film here. Now, we have remained. In the 17th century, the here—about 30 percent more than absolutely forgotten island became a favorite base on the continent—but on , it boredom, and the for pirates from which to attack is absolute rapture of the sea. Inspired pioneering passion wakes “Gold Spanish carracks”. But sea landscapes and warm the Star Wars action heroes— shines in up in us immediately. We are again full of modern diving days, or the Gloria Caribbean waters entice thousands of the darkness. A small aperture is probably determination to dive and explore new of Cozumel, began in 1961 when divers daily. They arrive with huge cruise located somewhere up in the ceiling miracles of the underground world. the team of Jacque Ives Cousteau ships, ferries from the continent or via the of the cavern. The sunlight is passing shot a movie about the fantastic local international airport. All dive sites through the thickness of the earth and Island of Swallows underwater world of the island. are located on the western side of the refracting in the underground pool Cozumel Island in the Maya’s language Cozumel, today, is the standard island, which is protected from northeast creating this surprising optical effect. The means “Island of Swallows”. The small of the Mexican sea diving. One ocean winds. It is always the quiet sea blue beam amazes and fascinates all of island is only 16 by 48 kilometers long city is on the island. It stretches one finds here as well as currents, various us. It is impossible to tear our eyes off the and only 19 kilometers, or a half hour by for many kilometers along coast. depths and the most beautiful relief of sight of the beam. We want to swim up ferry, from Cancun. It seems that it is very There are small, cozy streets and the sea floor. to it, get closer to have a better look or close, but everything is so different on many tequila bars and restaurants Cozumel. The encounters between the first Europeans and the Mayans were rarely happy ones 31 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: Iguana; Sea turtles: Matador and bull; Puma; Tree monkey; Land turtle; Dive writer, Andrey Bizyukin and zoo staff with crocodile

Diving Cozumel huge sea turtles, porcupine fish We have arrived on the island and hundreds of other kinds of only an hour ago, but already fish that have found a haven we are preparing for the next here. The current is so strong that dive. How often do you think it’s in 40 minutes we drifted three possible to see—on one dive— kilometers. Picturesque swept ancient anchors, Spanish canons, by before us with the speed of an statues and Maya sculptures, underwater express train. It is a bright tropical fishes, huge pity that to photograph on such barracudas and an underwater speed it is simply impossible! It cave with an underground river was necessary to embody only all running into the sea? Well, it is visual textures in memory. possible, if you dive on Cozumel Twelve days is too short a at a place called Chankanaab. time to get acquainted with riddles, the world accessible to Colombia reef is really an Mexico and even more so with everyone who comes here with exotic dive site off the island. Yucatàn. But to us, it has been an an open heart and a pure soul. Here, there are huge columns incredibly lucky opportunity open This is indeed the eighth miracle of freakish forms of heights up to to experience the unknown—the of the world, worthy of respect 20 meters with coral labyrinths. underground world of the Maya— and admiration. It’s very easy to lose one’s way. the world of stones and water, We shall return back to you, There are mustached lobsters, the world full of miracles and Yucatàn. ■

The Monument of Gonzales Ortega 32 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED cave cave

Types of caves Generally speaking there The Fascination of are four main types of cave:

Solution caves: These are formed in carbonate and sulphate rocks such as limestone and marble by the action of moving water that dissolves the to Caves form tunnels and caverns. Lava caves: These are formed when the The formation of solution caves outer surface of a lava flow hardens This type of cave is of the most interest while the molten lava within continues to to tourists and to divers, as they are the flow and eventually drains out to leave a ones containing dripstone formations of tube. stalagmites and stalactites. Such caves can be formed in a number of ways but Sea caves: These are formed by the all of them must originally have been action of waves attacking the weaker formed above water level, be it sea level parts of rocks along the shores of oceans or level, since stalactites and and lakes. stalagmites, and curtains of dripstone, form only in the air .Their existence in a caves: These are formed by the cave indicates that the cave was, at drainage of melt water through the ice. some time, above the water table while the dripstone was forming. This occurred, for example, during the last glaciation, about 20,000 years ago, when so much water was locked up as snow and ice that global sea level was then about 130 From the earliest days Today, caves, especially underwater ones, meters lower than today. of mankind humans still seem to fascinate people, though not The process of forming these caves for their domicile properties. Speleologists is a very slow one, and is primarily due have been interested in go down into caves for the sake of pure to rain. Falling through the atmosphere, caves as a shelter from adventure while the same may be said rain absorbs a small amount of carbon both the elements and for divers entering underwater caves. dioxide, CO2. Further amounts of CO2 from predators. It was However, it is also the beauty of many of are taken up by the rainwater as it per- the caves and caverns themselves, with colates down through the soil to meet in caves like those of their magnificent formations of stalagmites the underlying limestone substrate. Now, Lascaux, in the valley and stalactites. that attract the visitors, limestone is basically metamorphosed of the Vésère in France, be it the ordinary tourist visiting the large chalk i.e. , and is that humans also first Adelberg caves near Trieste, say, or the therefore practically almost insoluble Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico, USA. in water with only about 0.014 g of cal- expressed their artistic For , though, there are also the cium carbonate per litre of cold water. urges with their won- attractions of visiting underwater caves However, the presence of CO2 in the derful depictions of ani- such as those in Mexico. water changes the situation drastically mals. because calcium carbonate will react A on the island of Hawaii, with water that is saturated with CO2 to taken just above a lava fall. The floor is form the soluble . cauliflower pahoehoe, a rougher form of pahoehoe. Note the tree roots coming Text by Michael Symes CaCO3 + CO2 + H2O → Ca(HCO3)2 Photos by J P Bresser in from the ceiling. Lava tubes tend to be fairly close to the surface

33 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Stalagmites create a hand of stony fingers Cave Formation surrounding a diver

Cenotes In the Yucatan peninsula are to be found the world famous underwater caves known as cenotes. These are freshwater pools with underwater caves and caverns that are favourite places for snorkeling or scuba div- ing. The word cenote is derived, via Mexican Spanish, from Maya conot. They were often used as a sacrificial site by the Mayas. The HCO3− ion is known as the Alternative cave formation They were formed some 1.5 bicarbonate ion, and calcium bicar- A new theory suggests an agent million years ago, during an ice bonate, which exists only in solution, other than may age, when the sea level sank is up to 100 times more soluble than be responsible for creating some about 100 meters. At this time, the calcium carbonate. of the largest cave systems in the rain water had carved holes in As this weak solution of carbonic world. It has been discovered that the limestone ground, and when acid seeps through the rock it forms sulphur was responsible for carv- the ice began to melt again the cavities and channels as it moves ing out enormous cavities from sea level rose and the caves downward and laterally. Thus, after the limestone of Capitan Reef, were again flooded. However, in thousands of years underground the fossil reef that contains New places the soil had been washed caverns and caves can be formed. Mexico’s Carlsbad Caverns. away causing the overlying lime- Initially, these caverns will be water- Several million years ago stone crust to collapse, and thus filled but when the sea level goes hydrogen sulphide gas escaped exposing the water filled caves down they empty, partially or whol- from the oil deposits underlying beneath. They are therefore often ly. However, the acidic rainfall still Capitan Reef. This gas mixed with referred to as or water- occurs with its consequent dissolving in the , and holes. of the limestone. When it reaches sulphuric acid was eventually pro- The water which fills the caves the caves below it can drip from the duced. Sulphuric acid is capable is partly intruding seawater but ceiling forming dripstone formations of dissolving vast amounts of lime- mainly fresh rain water. As the such as stalagmites and stalactites. stone, much more so than car- fresh water has a slightly less bonic acid. This can explain the than that of sea water it Stalactites & stalagmites size of Big Room. After the water ‘floats’ on the sea water to give it As each drop of water hangs from table had dropped the cave an oily appearance, and is called the ceiling, it loses . floor was exposed to reveal large a halocline. ■ The acidity of the water is thereby gypsum (calcium reduced so that the calcium bicar- sulphate) deposits, bonate cannot remain in solution a by-product of a This causes precipitation of cal- reaction between cium carbonate to be deposited sulphuric acid and as a dripstone – in this case a sta- limestone. lactite which is slowly built up drop Kane Cave in by drop, as it hangs down from northern Wyoming, the ceiling, over hundreds or thou- USA, is also thought of years. to have been Stalagmites grow upwards from formed by the same the floor of the cave, generally as process. a result of water dripping from the overhanging . Cave of Lascaux, France—Hall of Bulls 34 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED What started the dream: Readling Uncle $crooge & travel Crown of the Riviera Maya Mayas A Journey to the Underworld Text by Peter Symes Photos by Andrey Bizyukin and J P Bresser

It was a strange feeling, frolick- I realized that my mental state had ing around in the shallows. I something to do with a childhood memory coming back to me—reading found myself sitting there in the a Donald Duck comic strip for a good tropics, in clear fresh water, night story while sleeping over at my not at the beach as one might grandparents’ house. In a now clas- expect but in a hole in the sic adventure, the famous ducks go to the Yucatán to search for archeologi- ground deep inside the jungle cal treasure— Indiana Jones style—the looking around at cliff walls and riches being gold and silver sacrificed by staring up under trees hanging the Maya into these ancient sink holes in over me. the jungle. As a little preschool kid, I was not only entertained, but also intrigued and a There were lily pads around me and lush little bit spooked reading the passages underwater vegetation of a species I for- of the ducks jumping into these dark got to ascertain but perhaps it was just watery holes in pursuit of the treas- strands of the omni-present Canadian ure. water weed (Elodea canadiensis) The story was which is known to every aquarist. penned down It was a tranquil scene, the by the leg- introduction to anthropology and arche- water was clear and still and not endary ology. So, don’t say that nothing good may sounds were to be heard. Carl comes out of reading comics. It kindled Yet my state of tranquillity was my interest in these disciplines. blended with a simmering uneasiness. So, here I find myself—a good third Was it due to the fact that I was just of a century later—sitting waist about to go diving into a cave, my first Barks deep in water, trying to con- venture of the sort, where I would be in an nect all the dots. swallowed up by a dark hole that led era Diving in under the to who knows where? Perhaps that had that pre- ledge and into something to do with it, but there was dated darkness, something else to do with it as well. the ‘scuba leaving It wasn’t the somewhat mind-boggling industry’ as the fact that these sink holes, the cenotes we know it and in which I was now sitting, were once certainly dive sacred places for a grand civilization travel as we know it. that had built palaces and temples Come to think of it, this around these parts long ago. story was probably my first

Divers swim through the clear Yellow-headed parrot J P BRESSER fresh waters of the Yucatàn ANDREY BIZYUKIN 35 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Divers head down a passage adorned with sculptural forms of limestone Riviera Maya travel BELOW: Swallowtail Butterfly

Weird warmth in the process. Furthest into the cavern, there was Under the halocline, the visibility a corner that was located much was pretty mediocre, so we didn’t deeper. Here, we were about to hang out for long. experience a weird phenomenon. Ascending through the non- We spotted a silvery layer of water transparent halocline once more with a different consistency, clar- to pop up into a cool but clear ity and colour. It was cloudy. We realm above was once again a descended slowly into this soupy somewhat weird experience—one substance, and we were struck you have to try to really compre- by a contrasting overlying layer of hend. clear cool water. It was also – and Once back at the surface and this is the strange part – warmer. de-kitted, I soon enough saw This was no , myself heading for one the best although it had some resem- ice teas I have ever had and a blance to it. It was a halocline, light snack before a very well- a separation of water layers that deserved siesta in a hammock is caused not by a under the palms. When in Rome, gradient but by a difference in salt do as the Romans… so since we , which creates a are in Mexico, we’d better test all difference in density stronger than the customs—all in a day’s work the one caused by temperature. for this dutiful travel reporter in pur- This phenomenon can sometimes suit of doing the proper research be observed at estuaries where for this story, of course. ■ saltwater flatfish can sometimes be seen darting under the bellies of their freshwater cous- ins heading the other way in a layer of freshwater J P BRESSER overlaying

sun behind us, I was still a mixed bag of emo- a faint light from another hole to the outside, tively not the place to go bumping into walls or tions and somewhat filled with doubts about allowing the greenish hue of sunlight passing ceilings with their delicate structures like a bull the sanity of my present undertaking as I head- through foliage to stream down from above. in a china shop. Not only would you most likely ed straight into an overhead environment. But hurt yourself, but you may also risk breaking the an intruding it lasted only for the few transient moments it The room was vast, the water crystal clear. delicate structures which in some places have wedge of saltwa- took my eyes to adapt to the dim light inside One of the classic Cousteau quotes to the appearance of being pencil thin delicate ter beneath. And the spacious cavern that opened up beyond mind. It went something like “diving is like fly- structures. They have been millennia in the this is exactly what the entrance. I was in… a cathedral. ing, only without wings”. The exact wording making—much longer than the coral we are was at play in the Well, that was my first thought anyway. The escapes me, but you get the drift. also told not to touch as they re-grow slowly. cavern too. architecture inside had pretty much the dimen- Here, the ‘flying sensation’ is dramatically Most importantly, these stalactites and stalag- We were actu- sions, and some resemblance, of some of the boosted by the clarity of the water and the mites only form in air, not underwater. They ally diving in ocean huge medieval cathedrals in Europe. However, distance between the floor and the ceiling. I were formed when the sea level was much water, which had in this case, the master sculptor was not some definitively got a kick out of zooming around lower and the caves were flooded much later, penetrated even this human Michelangelo but Mother Nature her- in all three dimensions in a manner you really after their creation. far from the beach self. can’t do in the ocean or a lake. The place is a magic one, and it plays all through crev- Everywhere there were organ pipe-like sculp- One is still in shallow water here, so decom- one’s senses. You are truly in another world, , tunnels and tures of stalagmites and stalactites. And at the pression issues are not really a consideration. or at least, at the very entrance to it. That was caves, retain- far end where the altar would be, there was But mastering control is. This is defini- what the ancient Mayans believed. ing much of its

ANDREY BIZYUKIN 36 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Cave diving is a type of in which specialized SCUBA equip- Cave & Cavern “Because it’s there.” ment is used to enable the —British climber, George exploration of natural or Leigh Mallory, when asked Diving Training & Equipment artificial caves, which are why he wanted to climb Mount Everest at least partially filled with water. SPELUNKING —Wikipedia —Not to be confused with No amount of previous open water diving experience or training can adequately prepare you for cave diving —National Speleological Society

Spelunking, or , is what We have come a long way since the first is by practicing techniques, over and you do when you explore a diver ventured into caves. Today’s train- over again. In the process, becoming a ing and equipment goes well beyond just cavern/cave diver not only teaches you cave just for the hell of it. Or having an explorers’ mind, some wit and proper cave diving techniques, the train- as my husband likes to say, lots of luck. ing helps you know your limits and your inspired by George Leigh Basic cave diving training teaches you potential on a personal level too. Mallory, because they are skills well beyond recreational dive train- Through exercises, you learn equip- ing. To perform safe diving in a closed ment familiarity. That includes basic there and because we can. environment, you need to become equipment training such as handling a self-confident, and you need to be self- reel and dive lights, using proper finning reliant at all times. There are no short techniques and mastering emergency Text by Millis Keegan Photos cuts if you want to survive in an environ- procedures such as handling an out of by JP Bresser and Deep Sea ment where you have no direct access air situation, valve shut downs and regu- Production, www.deepsea.se to open air. The only way to get there lator switches.

Basic Safety Rules for Cave Diving You need three sources of light

► No cavern/cave diving without cumstances like loss of visibility, sharing the continuous guide line in complete proper training gas, even a temporary loss of guide line darkness is part of the training, but it contact, are all situations when the gas is a risky task, and unhooking your ► Dive within your limits consumption can increase. second light beats the fibbling in the dark. In cave diving, three bat- ► Use a continuous guideline to the ► Three sources of light tery powered lights is mandatory, cave exit Always use three sources of light. It is one primary and two back up not a question of whether a lights. In cavern diving, two battery ► will or will not fail, it is a question of powered lights, one primary and Always follow the 1/3 rule, that means when, and you should be prepared for one back up, since the light from turn around when 1/3 of your gas sup- that. Loosing a light could lead to dif- the cavern opening is considered ply is used up. The reason is that loss cir- ficulties in finding the guide line. Finding to be the second back up light. ■

37 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED “Deep Silt” Don’t get your self into “deep silt”. A diver can stir up a lot of sediment with the wrong kick. While cave diving, propul- sion techniques truly become an art form, there are fin kicks that leave virtually no traces, even when the bottom sediment is easily stirred up. Training propul- sion techniques used in a cave is something anyone can ben- efit from. We are sure everyone has a story to tell about careless divers leaving a trail of silt behind, destroying the visibility for others. Get a kick out of it Fin kicks used to avoid stirring up silt are variations of Frog kicks, Flutter kicks, Roof Walking and Shuffle kicks.

Note the line cutter used for cutting line if entangled—a potentially dangerous situation What you are training Getting Certified for is a rehearsed response to an emergency, which Where do I begin? could save your life. A very popular way to start is by taking Cavern you penetrating a cave system, it will a three-day combination package, The first level is the cavern course. be a limited penetration, and you are usually provided by probably every This class takes you through the basic no where near the skill level needed cave diving organization—the Cavern planning and organization of cavern for cave diving on all levels. Diver/Intro to Cave Diver combina- diving, the of diving in an tion. These are cave diving classes that overhead environment and the special Apprentice cave allow you to do single tank dives only equipment needed. The dives take The third level is the apprentice cave into caverns/caves. It is a good way to place in a cavern, meaning a total diving course. In this class, more focus find out if this is something for you, and distance of 40 metres/130 feet from is placed upon expanded dive plan- an opportunity for personal growth. It the surface at any time. Minimum four ning skills through conducted dives. is a great experience and will give you dives over two days. The class also gives an introduction to experience you can use in your future jump and gap procedures. The class diving whether you decide to continue Cave is held over two days and includes at your cave diving training or not. The second level is the intro to cave least four dives. To become a fully certified cave diving class. In this class, you leave diver, you have to pass three levels of the cavern zone and the daylight and Full cave training before you can sign up for the make it into the cave system using Finally, you are ready for the Full cave Full Cave Diver Course. the main lines of a cave system. You diving course. This course focuses get some serious use of your basic on proper procedures for complet- The certification levels: overhead environment skills; you will ing traverses and circuits. During this • Cavern Diver train emergency procedures in the course, you will be responsible for • Intro Cave Diver cave, get good use out of the propul- all , gas management • Apprentice Cave Diver sion techniques you picked up during and the execution of the dive, which • Full Cave Diver your cavern class and learn some new you—thanks to the first levels of train- • Advanced Cave Diver ones. Even though this class will get ing—should be fully ready for. ■

38 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Equipment Cave The following is an (incomplete) list of “A tonne of stuff” agencies who offer cavern/cave diving Cavern and cave diving in any form is a very training. equipment intensive . Below is a list of the minimum requirements. Note that when you make Worldwide organizations A safety reel this decision, you take your diving to a new level, with a min. of ►IANTD 3 line arrows and you should commit to this configuration of 75’/23 meters of line. A primary IANTD World Headquarters per diver your dive equipment. If you don’t understand that, Slate & 1545 NE 104 Street pencil cave diving reel you are not ready. You need at least: with approxi- Shores, FL 33138-2665 USA mately 350’/106 www.iantd.com meter line 2 individual tankvalves/2 first stages ►Technical Diving International (TDI) International Training Duct tape 18 Elm St (to tape Topsham, ME 04086 USA mask and fin www.tdisdi.com straps)

►NAUI NAUI Worldwide Headquarters Watch/bottom PO Box 89789 timer, depth Tampa, FL 33689-0413 USA A 7’/2 meter gauge or dive www.nauiww.org long octopus computer The question is not for alterna- ►PADI whether a dive light tive air source 30151 Tomas Street Rancho Santa Margarita will or will not fail CA 92688-2125 USA but, rather when. www.padi.com A dive suit fitting the Training agencies found in USA environment you will be diving in ►NACD National Association For Cave Diving Alternative P.O. Box 14492 Air source Gainesville, FL 32604 USA attachment www.safecavediving.com Submersible dive tables ►GUE Global Underwater Explorers 15 South Main Street High Springs, FL 32643 USA www.gue.com Three battery powered diving lights, one with ►NSS/CDS at least 30-50 watt National Speleological Society, Cave power Diving Section NSS-CDS Administrative Office 2109 W US Hwy 90, Suite 170-317 A tank that holds Lake City, FL 32055 USA a minimum of 71.2 www.nsscds.org cubic feet or 2 cubic meters with a dual ori- fice (Y) valve or (H) valve

39 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Whale Sharks off Yucatàn

THIS PAGE: Views of a whale shark. Snorkelers enjoy the company of a whale shark (above)

bosh) in Mexico. It is one of the few areas on Earth they like to visit often. About 1,500 people live on this 26 mile long isand located near the northeastern tip of the Yucatan Pe- ninsula in the state of of Mexico. It is part of the Yum Balam ecological reserve and is separated from the mainland by the Yalahua Lagoon. The whale sharks congregate here each year between June and Sep- tember. This a time when the ocean is rich with plankton. Regardless of their massive size, these great fish are docile creatures and feed on huge quantities of plankton. They do not at- Text edited by Gunild Symes tack humans. Photos courtesy of Yucatek Divers In 2002, Underwater Editions (UWE) launched a long-term video and pho- The world’s largest whale shark fins or meat, to identification behavior research fish, whale sharks, or injury through collision project of the whale sharks in coop- with marine traffic and eration with the local community of Rhincodon typuscan, Isla Holbox. can grow up to 15 meters habitat loss. Whale sharks As tourist interest grew in the whale in length according to are now listed as an sharks, UWE developed Eco-Tourism experts. It was thought endangered species and guidelines in 2003 to help protect the protected under CITES. species and provide guided oppor- that some could reach tunities for tourists to swim and snorkel up to 20 meters in length, with the whale sharks. Later in 2004, but these individuals are The huge fish is found worldwide the organization and CONANP helped no longer common due in tropical and warm temperate educate and train local guides, estab- seas between latitudes 30° North lish rules and guidelines for interaction to the threats that the and 35° South. Their migratory with the whale sharks. The program species currently faces path brings them to the tropi- continues to run today. SOURCES: including over-fishing for cal waters near Isla Holbox (hol- CITES, Shark Trust, Yucatek Divers. ■

40 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED The Ancient Maya Artifacts from the Cenote travel by Robert J. Sharer, Loa P. Traxler of Sacrifice, , Yucatan Publisher: Stanford University Press; 6th edition Edited by Clemency Chase Coggins The Cenotes of the Riviera Maya Paperback: 931 pp. ISBN-10: 0804748179 Harvard edition World A Complete Guide for Snorkeling, Cavern Price: US$25.50 Amazon.com Paperback: 408 pp., 30 line illustrations, and Cave Diving the Cenotes of the This book traces the evolution of Maya civi- 300 halftones, 2 maps, 32 tables Riviera Maya by Steve Gerrard lization through the Pre-Columbian era, a ISBN 0-87365-694-6 Publisher: Steve Gerrard span of some 2,500 years from the origins of Price: US$75.00 Amazon.com Puerto Aventuras, Quintana Roo, Mexico complex society within to the In this abundantly illustrated third and final volume on Paperback: 244 pp. ISBN: 0-967 7412-0-3 end of the Pre-Columbian world with the the artifacts found by Edward H. Thompson in the Well Price: US$49.00 Spanish Conquest in the 16th century. The of Sacrifice, specialists analyze the great variety of Appointed with page after page of sixth edition presents objects and debate whether they represent evidence incredible photographs of the mysteri- new archaeological of dateable prehistorical ritual. The collection includes ous underwater world, this book is more than just a com- evidence and histori- the rare remains of hundreds of textiles, wooden objects, plete guide for snorkeling, cavern and cave diving the cal studies and offers and copal incense offerings that were preserved in the waters of this Cenotes of the Riviera Maya. This book includes over 200 the most extensive limestone , as well as the lithics, ceramics and bone and shell arti- colour photographs that show the breath-taking won- revisions of this clas- facts commonly found in Maya burials and caches and about 250 mam- der of the crystal clear sic work to date. malian remains. These objects are remarkable for having been cut, torn, water and incredible The result is the most broken, and burned before they were thrown into the green waters of sights of subterranean thorough and incisive the sacred well at Chichen Itza. See companion book below: Mexico. Not just a study of the origins coffee table book, and development of Cenote of Sacrifice Cenotes provides ancient Maya civili- Maya Treasures from the Sacred practical details zation ever Well at Chichen Itza by Orrin of where and how published. C. Shane (Editor), Clemency Sunken Cities, to swim, dive and Chase Coggins (Editor) Sacred Cenotes enjoy these beau- Publisher: University of Texas and Golden Sharks tiful caves located Paperback: 176 pp. Travels of a Water-Bound on the Caribbean ISBN-10: 0292710984 Adventurer coast of Mexico’s An Album of Maya Price: US$11.50 by Bill Belleville Yucatan peninsula. Architecture Amazon.com Publisher: University of AquaQuest.com by Georgia Publisher: Dover Publications Hardcover: 248 pp. Paperback: 144 pages ISBN-10: 0820325929 ISBN-10: 0486424847 Sale Price: US$22.76 Price: US$13.22 This collection of essays is about plac- This magnificent guide presents es that are noted for archaeological 36 sites from Central America and treasures, rare plants and animals, southern Mexico as they appeared or great scenery. For example, more than a thousand years ago: Temple of the Cross, Palenque; in the Amazon, it is the quest Acropolis and Maya sweat bath, Piedras Negras; Red is for a freshwater dolphin, House and north terrace at Chichén Itzá; more. and in the Keys, Each illustration features text of archeological finds it is the quiet past- and line drawing of remains. 95 illustrations. preserving Amazon.com backwaters. Amazon. com

41 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED LEFT TO RIGHT: Globe map showing Yucatán; Western Hemisphere map showing Mexico; fact file View of the ruins Yucatán Peninsula, Mexico of Yucatán

History An ancient land of North Pacific Ocean, between including advanced Amerindian civilizations, Guatemala and the US. The coun- Biodiver- Mexico succombed to Spanish try’s terrain is filled with high, rug- sity, Climate rule for 3000 years before gain- ged mountains and plateaus, low Change, ing independence in the early coastal plains and desert. Lowest Climate part of the 19th century. Mexico point: Laguna Salada -10 m; Change-Kyo- was thrown into economic turmoil Highest point: Volcan Pico de Oriza- to Protocol, after a devaluation of the peso ba 5,700 m. Coastline: 9,330 km. Desertification, hit the country in late 1994. It trig- Endangered gered the worst recession in over Climate varies from desert to Species, - 50 years. But the country continues tropical. Natural hazards: hurricanes ous Wastes, Law to make leaps in its recovery while on the Pacific, Gulf of Mexico, and of the Sea, Marine economic and social concerns Caribbean coasts, tsunamis along Dumping, Marine Life continue to challenge the nation, the Pacific coast, volcanoes and Conservation, Layer including underemployment for destructive earthquakes in the Protection, Ship Pollution, Wetlands, large numbers of citizens, low real center and south. Whaling. wages, unequal income distribu- tion, and few opportunites for Environmental issues include Economic Mexico’s free market modernization of the tax system Exchange rates: 1EUR=14.14 MXN, Alcatraces L44, M10, SM 22 advancement for Amerindian a lack of proper hazardous waste economy has recently entered and labor laws, and allowing pri- 1USD=10.95 MXN, 1GBP=21.47 MXN 77500 Cancun , Q. Roo, Mexico indivituals in the poor southern disposal facilities and natural fresh the trillion dollar class. A blend of vate investment in the energy sec- Phone/fax: 52-998-892-7680 states. In 2000, election results water resources with pollution mar- modern and outmoded indus- tor. Challenges also inclue boosting Population 107,449,525 (July Mobile: 998-105-7791 marked the first time since the ring the northern reservoirs, poor try and agriculture is increasingly economic growth, improving Mexi- 2006 est.) Ethnic groups: mestizo www.hiperbarica-cancun.com Mexican Revolution in 1910 that quality or inaccessible sources in dominated by the private sector. co’s international competitiveness, (Amerindian-Spanish) 60%, Amerin- the opposing party defeated the the rest of the nation; industrial The government has expanded and reducing poverty. Natural re- dian or predominantly Amerindian Cozumel Recompression Chamber incumbant party in government, pollution and raw sewage affect competition in seaports, railroads, sources: petroleum, silver, copper, 30%, white 9%, other 1%. Religions: Radio VHF 16 and 21, 872-23 87 and the Institutional Revolutionary Party rivers in urban areas; rural popula- telecommunications, electricity gold, lead, zinc, natural gas, timber. nominally Roman Catholic 89%, 872-1430, Calle 5 Sur #21B (PRI). In December of that year, tions are moving to urban areas, generation, natural gas distribution Agriculture: corn, wheat, soybeans, Protestant 6%, other groups 5%. Vicente FOX of the National Action widespread erosion; desertification; and airports. Per capita income is rice, beans, cotton, coffee, fruit, Cozumel Hyperbarics Chamber Party (PAN) became the first chief deforestation; deteriorating agri- one-fourth that of the US. NAFTA tomatoes; beef, poultry, dairy prod- Languages Spanish, various Radio VHF 65, 872-3070, Located executive elected in free and fair cultural lands; serious water and air has tripled trade with the US and ucts; wood products. Industry: Mayan, Nahuatl, and other region- in the “San Miguel Clinic”, Calle 6 elections. Government: federal pollution in the nation’s capital and Canada since 1994. Ninety per- and beverages, tobacco, chemi- al indigenous languages. (between Ave 5 & Ave 10) republic. Capital: Mexico (Distrito urban centers along US-Mexico cent of Mexican trade is under cals, iron and steel, petroleum, Federal) border; groundwater depletion free trade agreements with over , textiles, clothing, motor ve- Deco Chambers Scuba Doc Mexico Directory causing subsidence in Valley of 40 countries including, Guatemala, hicles, consumer durables, tourism. César Soto Fernández, MD scuba-doc.com/divmex.htm Geography Mexico is located Mexico. Note: Lack of clean water Honduras, El Salvador, the Euro- Note: Corn (maize) is thought to Diving and in central or middle America, and deforestation are now consid- pean Free Trade Area, and Japan. have originated in Mexico. It is one Hiperbárica Cancún Web sites bordering the Caribbean Sea and ered national security issues by the Current administration is mired by of the world’s major grain crops. On Call 24-hours Mexico Tourism Board the Gulf of Mexico, between the government. Mexico has entered congressional opposition against State-of-the-art chamber www.visitmexico.com ■ US and and bordering the some international agreements measures to improve infrastructure, Currency Mexican peso (MXN). Speaks English, German, Spanish

42 X-RAY MAG : 15 : 2007 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED

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