ELGOL FORT AUGUSTUS ARMADALE KINCRAIG
MALLAIG KINGUSSIE
BALMORAL
FORT WILLIAM THESCOTTISH GLENCOE HIGHLANDS BLAIR CASTLE
THESCOTTISHHIGHLANDS ARE ONE OF THE LAST GREAT WILDERNESS PITLOCHRY areas in Europe. Long distances between towns and enormous land- scapes mean that a driving vacation is the perfect way to see them. But by all means bring hiking boots for afternoon walks, or at least to stretch your legs. For Scotland has some of the best and most varied hiking terrain in all of Britain. There are awe-inspiring craggy mountain ranges and wave-thrashed shorelines. In between are tiny, PERTH whitewashed stone villages and centuries old castles that appear, Brigadoon-like, from the mist. In great sweeping glens, there are herds of Highland cattle, fierce looking beasts that are in fact quite docile. In the small towns along the way, you might well stumble upon a “ceilidh,” best described as an informal social gathering with fiddle and accordion music. But hospitality in the midst of such scenery is a LOCH LOMOND Scottish specialty. You can breakfast on poached Finnan haddock and Loch Fyne kippers before spending a day driving to a remote coastal village. You may well find yourself staying at a manor house that treats you rather like royalty, dining on fresh salmon and local pro- duce before a roaring fire in a baronial hall. GLASGOW AIRPORT
©MICHELIN from Map No. 986 Great Britain & Ireland Permission No. 00-US-007 THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS
(Mileage is estimated from each preceding the Campbells in 1692. To make sure that Ferry 21 Miles city or site. Before you begin your trip, you’re aware of the history, there’s often a ARMADALE DUNVEGAN Dunvegan Castle, the please note: For space reasons, we could not lone, kilted piper playing some haunting Located on the southern seat of the Macleods of Skye, is one notes on the bagpipe, which echoes part of Skye, this tiny of the most magnificent edifices in provide the most detailed map with this throughout the glen. At the Glencoe Folk village welcomes the Scotland. Dating back to the 13th brochure. We recommend the use of Museum, you can learn more about the Mallaig ferry and plays century, it was restored in high style Michelin Map No. 403 Scotland area’s tumultuous history. host to the Clan Donald during the 19th century. But don’t be in conjunction with this guide.) Centre, which is located in put be off by the rather plain exteri- To order Michelin maps call: 20 Miles a restored part of Armadale or. Inside, there’s a thought-provoking 1-800-223-0987 FORT WILLIAM Lying beside Loch Castle. Even for those who are dungeon, a portrait of Dr. Johnson by Linnhe, Fort William is surrounded by not a blood relation of the Joshua Reynolds and even a lock of mountains, its streets full of serious hikers Macdonalds, it’s a fascinating glimpse Bonnie Prince Charlie’s hair. Best of all is GLASGOW AIRPORT The easiest way to provisioning themselves at the numerous into the Scottish clan system. the famous Fairy Flag in the drawing room. access the Scottish Highlands and Islands outdoor shops. For this is the heart of This tattered, faded fragment of yellow silk from the U.S., you can stop off in Glasgow Scottish climbing country, and no moun- 36 Miles dotted with red is said to be endowed with for the night or simply get in your car and tain is more prized than nearby Ben Nevis, ELGOL Possibly the most scenic point on magical properties. head north. the highest peak in Britain at 4,406 feet. an island rich with scenic views, the view That may not seem high by Rocky here towards Loch Coruisk in the Cuillin 111 Miles 35 Miles Mountain standards, but it’s actually quite a Mountains is terrific indeed, taking in the FORT AUGUSTUS People come to this LOCH LOMOND The largest single demanding climb, one made considerably great craggy spine of peaks that runs along city for one thing: glimpses of Nessie, the inland waterway in Britain, some 22 miles more difficult by the unpredictable Scottish Skye. Bring the hiking boots and embark affectionate nickname for the Loch Ness long and five miles wide, Loch Lomond is weather. Pause a while at Glen Nevis, on a walk from here. Or stay by the beach Monster. The town sits at the foot of the also much celebrated in song. The “Bonnie, which begins north of the town. It’s quite with a picnic lunch, because this is a fine 23 mile Loch Ness, whose deep, murky and Bonnie banks of Loch Lomond” are indeed beautiful, and parts of “Braveheart” were place to get a peek at otters, seals and por- cold waters are forever shrouded in mys- bonnie (beautiful), with great views of the filmed here. Even if you don’t plan to go poises. tery. For a closer look, arrange to take a mountain Ben Lomond on the Eastern hillwalking, stop at the West Highland cruise on Loch Ness from here. Tales of the shore. Beyond sheer beauty, the Loch, Museum. It has a fascinating collection, 41 Miles monster really took flight in 1934, when which was formed during the ice age, has including the secret portrait of Bonnie PORTREE The main town of Skye, the the famous photograph of a dinosaur-like played a significant role in Scottish history. Prince Charlie, which can only be viewed name is derived from the Scots Gaelic “Port creature’s neck emerging from the water Loch Lomond was the waterway at the thanks to a curved mirror. Righ” or King’s harbor, a name it received was published. Underwater cameras and junction of three ancient kingdoms: after a visit in 1540 by King James V. For sonar have been deployed, but so far, noth- Pictland, Strathclyde and Dalriada. There 46 Miles those who love piping, caber tossing and ing conclusive has emerged. For those who are more than 37 islands in the loch, some MALLAIG “The Road to the Isles” leads hammer throwing, note that Portree is fail to see anything of Nessie, there’s always of which, like Inchmurrin, served as isolated here from Fort William. Before arriving in where the Isle of Skye Highland Games are a visit to the Clansman Centre, a good retreats for early Christians. Mallaig, you’ll come to the spectacular held in August. Portree is also a fine base exhibition of traditional Highland culture. strand of beaches known as the Silver for exploring the nearby hills, for a day Fort Augustus is also the site of Highland 73 Miles Sands of Morar. Mallaig itself is a classic hike up the Quirang, and for boat trips out gatherings four times yearly, in June, July, GLENCOE This is Scotland’s most famous Scottish fishing village, with lively pubs and to the sound of Raasay. Seals, porpoises and “glen,” a Scots Gaelic term that means val- restaurants. To get a glimpse below the sea even eagles are commonly seen, and some ley. Surrounded by steep-sided mountains, without actually getting wet, stop at boats make a point of exploring the sea it’s darkly beautiful and is perhaps the most the Mallaig Marine World, which caves as well. It was in Portree that Dr. famous site in Scottish history. It was here, offers an array of local aquatic Samuel Johnson and James Boswell stayed at the height of clan warfare, that species. Then take the auto ferry during their famous 18th century jaunt the Macdonalds were to Skye, which allows today’s through the Hebrides. From that trip came defeated by motorist to “go over the sea to Dr. Johnson’s “A Journey Through the August and September. The contests Skye,” as Bonnie Prince Western Isles” and Boswell’s “Journal offeature a the classic Highland pastimes: Charlie did, albeit Tour through the Hebrides.” caber tossing, hammer throwing, falconry, in considerably sheep dog trials, traditional dancing and more comfort. piping competitions. 32 Miles 7 Miles HOTELS INVERNESS On the Moray Firth, at the KINGUSSIE The Highland Folk Museum Gleneagles. Where lovers of golf, fishing northern end of the Great Glen, Inverness is the finest of its kind in the country, a col- and equestrian sports congregate. Grand is the center of the Highlands. The lection of historical buildings and carefully and rather palatial, you can learn falconry, Inverness Museum and Art Gallery is worth collected artifacts that reveal Highland life. sharpen off-road driving skills or just enjoy a visit, as is the Castle Garrison Encounter There’s a blackhouse from the Isle of Lewis a luxurious stay. Auchterarder, Perthshire at Inverness Castle. You might also consider & Harris, with demonstrations of spinning Tel: 01764-662231; a boat trip out onto the Moray Firth and and wood carving. Nearby are the Ruthven Fax: 01764-662134. have a lookout for bottlenose dolphins. In Barracks, built in 1719, and one of four For reservations in the U.S.: 800-223-6800. town itself, you’ll find shops bursting with fortresses built after the first Jacobite rebel- more sweaters, kilts and tartans than you lion of 1715. They were last used by troops Cameron House. A luxury hotel and can imagine existed. anxiously awaiting the return of Bonnie countryclub on the shores of Loch Prince Charlie after the battle of Culloden Lomond. Victorian-flavored surroundings, 86 Miles in 1746. When they learned of his terrible and Scottish-French cuisine on the menu. BALMORAL Built as a private residence defeat, they destroyed the barracks and fled Loch Lomond. Tel.: 01389-755565; for Queen Victoria in 1855, the grounds to the hills. Fax: 01389-759522. and parts of the castle are open to visitors. Of interest to anyone who saw the film 38 Miles Cuillin Hills Hotel. Set outside Portree, “Mrs. Brown” is a statue of the controversial BLAIR CASTLE The seat of the Duke of this gabled hotel has views over Portree John Brown, rather discretely tucked away. Atholl, this castle, which in part dates back Bay toward the Cuillin Hills. Bedrooms to 1269, overlooks the River Garry. A piper are individually decorated in bold floral 65 Miles pipes in visitors each day to the magnifi- patterns. Not surprisingly, the restaurant KINCRAIG This village is a good base for cent structure. Some 32 rooms are open to specializes in seafood. Portree, Isle of Skye; exploring the surrounding Cairngorms, a the public, revealing a cornucopia of armor, Tel.: 01478-612003; Fax: 01478-613092. wild mountain range that contains four of paintings, period furniture, china and deer RESTAURANT the five highest peaks in Britain. It is indeed antlers. It’s a testimony to how the upper Arisaig House. A stone manorKinloch house Lodge. set in A few miles from one of the most rugged landscapes in the class lived in the Highlands. It’s also the parkland on the Highland coast.Armadale, There this are country house hotel is run country, and suitable for fantastic hill base of the Atholl Highlanders, the only wood-paneled rooms, magnificentby Lord fire- and Lady Macdonald. But it’s the walking. It’s easy enough to walk across remaining private army left in Britain. places and vaulted ceilings. cookingLocal produce, of Lady Clare Macdonald, the moors purple with heather, along seafood and game are servedScotland’s at dinner. best-known chef, that draws bubbling Highland burns, and spot 5 Miles Beasdale by Arisaig, InvernessShire.gourmands from all over Britain. Isleornsay, such Arctic birds as the dotterel, the PITLOCHRY For those who’ve yet to visit Tel: 44 01687 450622; Isle of Skye; Tel: 01471-833333; ptarmigan and the snow bunting. a distillery in Scotland, Pitlochry has two: Fax: 44 01687 450626. Fax: 01471-833277. The Highland Wildlife Park, Bell’s Blair Athol Distillery and Edradour. For reservations in the U.S. 800-735-2478. outside the village, is The home of the Pitlochry Festival Theatre, run by the Royal you can see a different play every night of a Inverlochy Castle lies in the foothills of Zoological Society given week from May to October. Ben Nevis. The setting is remarkable, the of Scotland. accommodations suitably palatial. Torlundy 27 Miles Fort William. Tel: 44 01397 702177; PERTH Scone Palace is the primary Fax: 44 01397 702953. attraction here, the home of the Earl and For reservations in the U.S. 800-735-2478. Countess on Mansfield. Dating back to 1580 but substantially rebuilt in 1804, it Airds Hotel is a former Ferry Inn dating has a fine collection of French furniture, from the early 18th century. The din- including Marie Antoinette’s writing table. ingroom overlooks Loch Linnhe and the Morvern mountains, with cuisine prepared by Graeme Allen. Port Appin, Appin. Tel: 44 01631 730236; Fax: 44 01631 730535.