PORTREE DUNVEGAN INVERNESS ELGOL FORT AUGUSTUS ARMADALE KINCRAIG MALLAIG KINGUSSIE BALMORAL FORT WILLIAM THE SCOTTISH GLENCOE HIGHLANDS BLAIR CASTLE THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS ARE ONE OF THE LAST GREAT WILDERNESS PITLOCHRY areas in Europe. Long distances between towns and enormous land- scapes mean that a driving vacation is the perfect way to see them. But by all means bring hiking boots for afternoon walks, or at least to stretch your legs. For Scotland has some of the best and most varied hiking terrain in all of Britain. There are awe-inspiring craggy PERTH mountain ranges and wave-thrashed shorelines. In between are tiny, whitewashed stone villages and centuries old castles that appear, Brigadoon-like, from the mist. In great sweeping glens, there are herds of Highland cattle, fierce looking beasts that are in fact quite docile. In the small towns along the way, you might well stumble upon a LOCH LOMOND “ceilidh,” best described as an informal social gathering with fiddle and accordion music. But hospitality in the midst of such scenery is a Scottish specialty. You can breakfast on poached Finnan haddock and Loch Fyne kippers before spending a day driving to a remote coastal village. You may well find yourself staying at a manor house that GLASGOW AIRPORT treats you rather like royalty, dining on fresh salmon and local pro- duce before a roaring fire in a baronial hall. ©MICHELIN from Map No. 986 Great Britain & Ireland Permission No. 00-US-007 THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS (Mileage is estimated from each preceding the Campbells in 1692. To make sure that Ferry 21 Miles city or site. Before you begin your trip, you’re aware of the history, there’s often a ARMADALE DUNVEGAN Dunvegan Castle, the please note: For space reasons, we could not lone, kilted piper playing some haunting Located on the southern seat of the Macleods of Skye, is one provide the most detailed map with this notes on the bagpipe, which echoes part of Skye, this tiny of the most magnificent edifices in brochure. We recommend the use of throughout the glen. At the Glencoe Folk village welcomes the Scotland. Dating back to the 13th Michelin Map No. 403 Scotland Museum, you can learn more about the Mallaig ferry and plays century, it was restored in high style in conjunction with this guide.) area’s tumultuous history. host to the Clan Donald during the 19th century. But don’t be To order Michelin maps call: Centre, which is located in put be off by the rather plain exteri- 1-800-223-0987 20 Miles a restored part of Armadale or. Inside, there’s a thought-provoking FORT WILLIAM Lying beside Loch Castle. Even for those who are dungeon, a portrait of Dr. Johnson by GLASGOW AIRPORT The easiest way to Linnhe, Fort William is surrounded by not a blood relation of the Joshua Reynolds and even a lock of access the Scottish Highlands and Islands mountains, its streets full of serious hikers Macdonalds, it’s a fascinating glimpse Bonnie Prince Charlie’s hair. Best of all is from the U.S., you can stop off in Glasgow provisioning themselves at the numerous into the Scottish clan system. the famous Fairy Flag in the drawing room. for the night or simply get in your car and outdoor shops. For this is the heart of This tattered, faded fragment of yellow silk head north. Scottish climbing country, and no moun- 36 Miles dotted with red is said to be endowed with tain is more prized than nearby Ben Nevis, ELGOL Possibly the most scenic point on magical properties. 35 Miles the highest peak in Britain at 4,406 feet. an island rich with scenic views, the view LOCH LOMOND The largest single That may not seem high by Rocky here towards Loch Coruisk in the Cuillin 111 Miles inland waterway in Britain, some 22 miles Mountain standards, but it’s actually quite a Mountains is terrific indeed, taking in the FORT AUGUSTUS People come to this long and five miles wide, Loch Lomond is demanding climb, one made considerably great craggy spine of peaks that runs along city for one thing: glimpses of Nessie, the also much celebrated in song. The “Bonnie, more difficult by the unpredictable Scottish Skye. Bring the hiking boots and embark affectionate nickname for the Loch Ness Bonnie banks of Loch Lomond” are indeed weather. Pause a while at Glen Nevis, on a walk from here. Or stay by the beach Monster. The town sits at the foot of the bonnie (beautiful), with great views of the which begins north of the town. It’s quite with a picnic lunch, because this is a fine 23 mile Loch Ness, whose deep, murky and mountain Ben Lomond on the Eastern beautiful, and parts of “Braveheart” were place to get a peek at otters, seals and por- cold waters are forever shrouded in mys- shore. Beyond sheer beauty, the Loch, filmed here. Even if you don’t plan to go poises. tery. For a closer look, arrange to take a which was formed during the ice age, has hillwalking, stop at the West Highland cruise on Loch Ness from here. Tales of the played a significant role in Scottish history. Museum. It has a fascinating collection, 41 Miles monster really took flight in 1934, when Loch Lomond was the waterway at the including the secret portrait of Bonnie PORTREE The main town of Skye, the the famous photograph of a dinosaur-like junction of three ancient kingdoms: Prince Charlie, which can only be viewed name is derived from the Scots Gaelic “Port creature’s neck emerging from the water Pictland, Strathclyde and Dalriada. There thanks to a curved mirror. Righ” or King’s harbor, a name it received was published. Underwater cameras and are more than 37 islands in the loch, some after a visit in 1540 by King James V. For sonar have been deployed, but so far, noth- of which, like Inchmurrin, served as isolated 46 Miles those who love piping, caber tossing and ing conclusive has emerged. For those who retreats for early Christians. MALLAIG “The Road to the Isles” leads hammer throwing, note that Portree is fail to see anything of Nessie, there’s always here from Fort William. Before arriving in where the Isle of Skye Highland Games are a visit to the Clansman Centre, a good 73 Miles Mallaig, you’ll come to the spectacular held in August. Portree is also a fine base exhibition of traditional Highland culture. GLENCOE This is Scotland’s most famous strand of beaches known as the Silver for exploring the nearby hills, for a day Fort Augustus is also the site of Highland “glen,” a Scots Gaelic term that means val- Sands of Morar. Mallaig itself is a classic hike up the Quirang, and for boat trips out gatherings four times yearly, in June, July, ley. Surrounded by steep-sided mountains, Scottish fishing village, with lively pubs and to the sound of Raasay. Seals, porpoises and August and September. The contests it’s darkly beautiful and is perhaps the most restaurants. To get a glimpse below the sea even eagles are commonly seen, and some feature the classic Highland pastimes: famous site in Scottish history. It was here, without actually getting wet, stop at boats make a point of exploring the sea caber tossing, hammer throwing, falconry, at the height of clan warfare, that the Mallaig Marine World, which caves as well. It was in Portree that Dr. sheep dog trials, traditional dancing and the Macdonalds were offers an array of local aquatic Samuel Johnson and James Boswell stayed piping competitions. defeated by species. Then take the auto ferry during their famous 18th century jaunt to Skye, which allows today’s through the Hebrides. From that trip came motorist to “go over the sea to Dr. Johnson’s “A Journey Through the Skye,” as Bonnie Prince Western Isles” and Boswell’s “Journal of a Charlie did, albeit Tour through the Hebrides.” in considerably more comfort. 32 Miles 7 Miles HOTELS INVERNESS On the Moray Firth, at the KINGUSSIE The Highland Folk Museum Gleneagles. Where lovers of golf, fishing northern end of the Great Glen, Inverness is the finest of its kind in the country, a col- and equestrian sports congregate. Grand is the center of the Highlands. The lection of historical buildings and carefully and rather palatial, you can learn falconry, Inverness Museum and Art Gallery is worth collected artifacts that reveal Highland life. sharpen off-road driving skills or just enjoy a visit, as is the Castle Garrison Encounter There’s a blackhouse from the Isle of Lewis a luxurious stay. Auchterarder, Perthshire at Inverness Castle. You might also consider & Harris, with demonstrations of spinning Tel: 01764-662231; a boat trip out onto the Moray Firth and and wood carving. Nearby are the Ruthven Fax: 01764-662134. have a lookout for bottlenose dolphins. In Barracks, built in 1719, and one of four For reservations in the U.S.: 800-223-6800. town itself, you’ll find shops bursting with fortresses built after the first Jacobite rebel- more sweaters, kilts and tartans than you lion of 1715. They were last used by troops Cameron House. A luxury hotel and can imagine existed. anxiously awaiting the return of Bonnie countryclub on the shores of Loch Prince Charlie after the battle of Culloden Lomond. Victorian-flavored surroundings, 86 Miles in 1746. When they learned of his terrible and Scottish-French cuisine on the menu. BALMORAL Built as a private residence defeat, they destroyed the barracks and fled Loch Lomond.