Gravel Travel for Softies Even If You Only Have a Softroader, You Can Pick and Choose Among the Gravel Roads That Connect the Little Karoo to the Eastern Cape
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WEEKEND LITTLE KAROO ‑ EASTERN CAPE Gravel travel for softies Even if you only have a softroader, you can pick and choose among the gravel roads that connect the Little Karoo to the Eastern Cape. Like Johan de Smidt, you might just encounter some game between Klaarstroom and Hogsback … ave I fallen down a rabbit onto the tarred R341. But at Klaarstroom, hole or is that really waterbuck north of the poort, not a single soul is turn- grazing right next to the road? ing off onto the gravel road to Willowmore. Here are some zebras and a And yet a weather-beaten road sign prom- Hsmall herd of impalas too. What next, el- ises 92 km of unadulterated gravel-travel ephants? A white rabbit watching his pock- pleasure to Willowmore. et watch? I blink my eyes to make sure it Summertime, and the road is excellent isn’t twilight playing tricks on me out here and the drive – past farms, through drifts on a gravel road between Steytlerville and and over causeways – easy. Chrome-yel- Uitenhage. A public gravel road, nogal. low flowers light up the acacias on the The guys at the Steytlerville informa- roadside like sparkling lights on a Christ- tion office sure weren’t joking when they mas tree. In a sky as blue as a gas flame, warned about watching out for game by Jik-white clouds float over the Kamma- late afternoon. Because out here on the nassie Mountains in the south. A flock gravel road running parallel to the Great of boer goats drinking from a farm dam Win ter hoek Mountains, you have to crawl next to a causeway scatter when the Cap- along if you don’t want to literally bump tiva’s V6 growls past. into some buck. But I’m stoked – it feels When the road that has been level for like driving through a game reserve. Easy does it. You could encounter anything 78 km rises into some low hills, it hits you from leopard tortoises to waterbuck on the how quiet it’s been – only one vehicle has gravel road between Steytlerville and the R75 “Glad you’re taking the slow road no- near Uitenhage, so take it easy. passed. And before you know it, you’re where,” my boet, Pierre, SMSed this jostling for position at Zaayman’s Garage morning. On the way to Hogsback, I’m in Willowmore. taking all the gravel road turnoffs from At the garage, parts manager Ian Zaay- Klaar stroom, north of De Rust in the Lit- man hands me the Baviaans Tourism Map tle Karoo, because I “don’t much care” of the area, the handiwork of his wife, where I’m going, as Alice told the Chesh- Jane, manager of the Baviaans Tourism ire Cat in Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Office. With it I head southwest on the After all, this is what gravel travel is about N9 for some 4 km before turning left onto – taking it easy, going slowly, having a good the R332 gravel road at the Baviaanskloof/ look around – and making no bookings. Winter hoek sign. At the 13 km mark, I When you’re driving slowly, you notice Fast facts turn left at the Winterhoek sign. With the little things such as, not a rabbit, but a scor- Ba vi aans kloof Mountains reclining under Road: Gravel roads we drove were all in pion scuttling across the road. You can also good condition. a deck of scattered clouds in the south, the stop in time for bigger things, such as a siz- Best time: Winter for snow, autumn road arches over open terrain with a rise able leopard tortoise – ostensibly also head- when poplars change colour, spring here and there for 62 km before it T-bones ing in the general direction of the Eastern when it’s cooler than summer for driving into the tarred R329 to Steytlerville. Cape – and heave it out of the road. around Best of all, if you don’t book accom- Stay at least: 3 nights in Hogsback Steytlerville – R75/Uitenhage (119 km) modation, you don’t have to rush to get Distance from: Cape Town to From Steytlerville I take the first turnoff anywhere – you simply find a place to Hogsback: ± 957 km; Johannesburg to left after leaving the village via the south- Hogsback: ± 854 km sleep before it gets dark. ern gravel exit. The 1 758 m-high Cocks- Know‑all: JRR Tolkien probably didn’t get his inspiration for his fictional for- comb peak dominates the Great Win- Klaarstroom – Willowmore (92 km) est of Mirkwood in Lord of the Rings terhoek Mountains in the south as you At De Rust, south of Meiringspoort, a from the Amatola Forest at Hogsback mosey along. steady stream of travellers are turning right as he was born in Bloemfontein and Lining the road the sisal plants too are JOHAN DE SMIDT was three when he permanently left topped with bright-yellow flowers. Southern Africa. It’s on the last stretch to the R75, as Come, hobbitses, come ... Think Hogsback and you you are passing the Groendal Wilderness see forest roads lined with arum lilies such as these in a Accessible Accessible Area in the south, that the game start ap- PHOTOGRAPHS Tolkienesque pine forest along the Plaatjieskraal Road. pearing next to the road. 70 drive out APRIL 2012 www.driveout.co.za drive out APRIL 2012 71 WEEKEND LITTLE KAROO ‑ EASTERN CAPE And then, 119 km after you’ve hit the At the T-junction with a tar road at the Gravel gravel at Steytlerville, your wheels touch 20 km mark, the water mass of the Sandile Tar tar for the first time again at the R75. Dam stretches out on the left. It’s a peace- Jeep track From here, I hit the tar road to friends’ ful spot for some cattle to chew the cud house in Grahamstown. under the midday sun, while some locals N1 are waiting for taxis on the roadside. R350/Grahamstown – R63/Fort The dam is named after the son of Beaufort West Graaff-Reinet Cathcart Beaufort (52 km) Chief Ngqika, Mgolombane Sandile, who N10 If you “don’t much care” where you’re became famous for eluding the British as Bedford Hogsback R63 going while you’re heading north from a Xhosa chief in the War of the Axe in the N9 Alice the southern Eastern Cape, some choice 1840s (see box on this page). N12 King William’s gravel roads will take you there. It was somewhat less peaceful in a R338 Town VondelingWillowmore R350 On the way to Hogsback on the R350, gorge at Boma Pass, next to the dam, R329 Steytlerville Kleinpoort Klaarstroom Glenconnor which connects Grahamstown to Bed- on Christmas Eve in 1850 when Xhosa Meiringspoort anskloof Mount Grahamstown Bavia ains R75 N2 Grootwinterhoe ford, a highly recommendable 51 km warriors ambushed a 700-strong British Oudtshoorn k Moun Baviaanskloof tains stretch runs from the R350 to the R63, force on their way from Fort Cox. In the N12 N9 Wilderness Area Uitenhage which links Adelaide to Fort Beaufort. attack, the run-up to the Eighth Fron- Kammanassie Mountains Port Elizabeth It starts just after Carlisle Bridge on tier War (1850–53), 23 British soldiers N2 Knysna the R350 by climbing past flowering aca- were killed. Mossel Bay cias and plumbagos to the top of a hill at At the T-junction I turn right onto the the 10 km mark from where a great view Sandile Heritage Route and head towards of the hinterland in the north unfolds. Burnshill. The route is one of four in the The road saunters for some 17 km to the Amathole district that tracks the ups and The elusive T-junction with the R344, which con- downs of Xhosa chiefs under colonialism. A number of forest tracks such as this one running along the edge of a dam, veer off the warrior chief nects Adelaide to the R350 northwest of Dam(n) fine view. The others are the Makana, Maqoma Plaatjies kraal Road leading out of Hogsback. Just leave a breadcrumb trail so you can find your way back. Grahamstown. and Phalo routes. Chief Ngqika ruled the Xhosa on the Following the Fort Beaufort signs, I off to the right. Follow this track for a a last photo stop before you’re back at the A sign next to the road proclaims that western side of the Kei River from the turn left onto the R344 and right shortly further some 100 m until you reach the start of the loop about 10 km further. the route runs past the memorial grave late seventeen hundreds until his death in after onto the next some 22 km stretch. viewpoint, stretch your legs, and return of Chief Ngqika, the Fort Cox Memorial 1829 after fighting numerous wars against The road passes through dense clumps of to the village via the same track. Hogsback – Sandile Dam – Burnshill and the site of the Burnshill Wagon Dis- British Settlers. trees and over a number of bridges and (109 km circular route) aster, in which Xhosa warriors captured The Sandile Dam was named after causeways that cross running rivers and Happy Valley loop (60 km) This loop with its many points of historical most of 125 British ammunition and ra- Chief Ngqika’s son Mgolombane Sandile streams. A flash flood left a head-high To reach the Happy Valley loop, turn interest runs past some Xhosa villages, the tions wagons after a fierce battle in 1846. who became paramount chief of the wall of debris at one causeway, some right at the T-junction with the road be- Sandile Dam and Burnshill and returns to Of the three, only the Fort Cox Memorial amaRharhabe, one of two factions of the 13 km before the tarred R63.