WEEKEND LITTLE KAROO ‑ EASTERN CAPE Gravel travel for softies Even if you only have a softroader, you can pick and choose among the gravel roads that connect the Little Karoo to the Eastern Cape. Like Johan de Smidt, you might just encounter some game between Klaarstroom and Hogsback …

ave I fallen down a rabbit onto the tarred R341. But at Klaarstroom, hole or is that really waterbuck north of the poort, not a single soul is turn- grazing right next to the road? ing off onto the gravel road to Willowmore. Here are some zebras and a And yet a weather-beaten road sign prom- Hsmall herd of impalas too. What next, el- ises 92 km of unadulterated gravel-travel ephants? A white rabbit watching his pock- pleasure to Willowmore. et watch? I blink my eyes to make sure it Summertime, and the road is excellent isn’t twilight playing tricks on me out here and the drive – past farms, through drifts on a gravel road between Steytlerville and and over causeways – easy. Chrome-yel- Uitenhage. A public gravel road, nogal. low flowers light up the acacias on the The guys at the Steytlerville informa- roadside like sparkling lights on a Christ- tion office sure weren’t joking when they mas tree. In a sky as blue as a gas flame, warned about watching out for game by Jik-white clouds float over the Kamma- late afternoon. Because out here on the nassie Mountains in the south. A flock gravel road running parallel to the Great of boer goats drinking from a farm dam Win­ter­hoek Mountains, you have to crawl next to a causeway scatter when the Cap- along if you don’t want to literally bump tiva’s V6 growls past. into some buck. But I’m stoked – it feels When the road that has been level for like driving through a game reserve. Easy does it. You could encounter anything 78 km rises into some low hills, it hits you from leopard tortoises to waterbuck on the how quiet it’s been – only one vehicle has gravel road between Steytlerville and the R75 “Glad you’re taking the slow road no- near Uitenhage, so take it easy. passed. And before you know it, you’re where,” my boet, Pierre, SMSed this jostling for position at Zaayman’s Garage morning. On the way to Hogsback, I’m in Willowmore. taking all the gravel road turnoffs from At the garage, parts manager Ian Zaay- Klaar­stroom, north of De Rust in the Lit- man hands me the Baviaans Tourism Map tle Karoo, because I “don’t much care” of the area, the handiwork of his wife, where I’m going, as Alice told the Chesh- Jane, manager of the Baviaans Tourism ire Cat in Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland. Office. With it I head southwest on the After all, this is what gravel travel is about N9 for some 4 km before turning left onto – taking it easy, going slowly, having a good the R332 gravel road at the Baviaanskloof/ look around – and making no bookings. Winter­hoek sign. At the 13 km mark, I When you’re driving slowly, you notice Fast facts turn left at the Winterhoek sign. With the little things such as, not a rabbit, but a scor- Ba­vi­aans­kloof Mountains reclining under Road: Gravel roads we drove were all in pion scuttling across the road. You can also good condition. a deck of scattered clouds in the south, the stop in time for bigger things, such as a siz- Best time: Winter for snow, autumn road arches over open terrain with a rise able leopard tortoise – ostensibly also head- when poplars change colour, spring here and there for 62 km before it T-bones ing in the general direction of the Eastern when it’s cooler than summer for driving into the tarred R329 to Steytlerville. Cape – and heave it out of the road. around Best of all, if you don’t book accom- Stay at least: 3 nights in Hogsback Steytlerville – R75/Uitenhage (119 km) modation, you don’t have to rush to get Distance from: Cape Town to From Steytlerville I take the first turnoff anywhere – you simply find a place to Hogsback: ± 957 km; Johannesburg to left after leaving the village via the south- Hogsback: ± 854 km sleep before it gets dark. ern gravel exit. The 1 758 m-high Cocks- Know-all: JRR Tolkien probably didn’t get his inspiration for his fictional for- comb peak dominates the Great Win- Klaarstroom – Willowmore (92 km) est of Mirkwood in Lord of the Rings terhoek Mountains in the south as you At De Rust, south of Meiringspoort, a from the Amatola Forest at Hogsback mosey along. steady stream of travellers are turning right as he was born in Bloemfontein and Lining the road the sisal plants too are JOHAN DE SMIDT was three when he permanently left topped with bright-yellow flowers. Southern Africa. It’s on the last stretch to the R75, as Come, hobbitses, come ... Think Hogsback and you you are passing the Groendal Wilderness see forest roads lined with arum lilies such as these in a Accessible Accessible Area in the south, that the game start ap-

PHOTOGRAPHS Tolkienesque pine forest along the Plaatjieskraal Road. pearing next to the road.

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And then, 119 km after you’ve hit the At the T-junction with a tar road at the Gravel gravel at Steytlerville, your wheels touch 20 km mark, the water mass of the Sandile Tar tar for the first time again at the R75. Dam stretches out on the left. It’s a peace- Jeep track From here, I hit the tar road to friends’ ful spot for some cattle to chew the cud house in Grahamstown. under the midday sun, while some locals N1 are waiting for taxis on the roadside. R350/Grahamstown – R63/Fort The dam is named after the son of Beaufort West Graaff-Reinet Cathcart Beaufort (52 km) Chief Ngqika, Mgolombane Sandile, who N10 If you “don’t much care” where you’re became famous for eluding the British as Bedford Hogsback R63 going while you’re heading north from a Xhosa chief in the War of the Axe in the N9 Alice the southern Eastern Cape, some choice 1840s (see box on this page). N12 King William’s gravel roads will take you there. It was somewhat less peaceful in a R338 Town VondelingWillowmore R350 On the way to Hogsback on the R350, gorge at Boma Pass, next to the dam, R329 Steytlerville Kleinpoort Klaarstroom Glenconnor which connects Grahamstown to Bed- on Christmas Eve in 1850 when Xhosa Meiringspoort anskloof Mount Grahamstown Bavia ains R75 N2 Grootwinterhoe ford, a highly recommendable 51 km warriors ambushed a 700-strong British Oudtshoorn k Moun Baviaanskloof tains stretch runs from the R350 to the R63, force on their way from Fort Cox. In the N12 N9 Wilderness Area Uitenhage which links Adelaide to Fort Beaufort. attack, the run-up to the Eighth Fron- Kammanassie Mountains Port Elizabeth It starts just after Carlisle Bridge on tier War (1850–53), 23 British soldiers N2 Knysna the R350 by climbing past flowering aca- were killed. Mossel Bay cias and plumbagos to the top of a hill at At the T-junction I turn right onto the the 10 km mark from where a great view Sandile Heritage Route and head towards of the hinterland in the north unfolds. Burnshill. The route is one of four in the The road saunters for some 17 km to the Amathole district that tracks the ups and The elusive T-junction with the R344, which con- downs of Xhosa chiefs under colonialism. A number of forest tracks such as this one running along the edge of a dam, veer off the warrior chief nects Adelaide to the R350 northwest of Dam(n) fine view. The others are the Makana, Maqoma Plaatjies­kraal Road leading out of Hogsback. Just leave a breadcrumb trail so you can find your way back. Grahamstown. and Phalo routes. Chief Ngqika ruled the Xhosa on the Following the Fort Beaufort signs, I off to the right. Follow this track for a a last photo stop before you’re back at the A sign next to the road proclaims that western side of the Kei River from the turn left onto the R344 and right shortly further some 100 m until you reach the start of the loop about 10 km further. the route runs past the memorial grave late seventeen hundreds until his death in after onto the next some 22 km stretch. viewpoint, stretch your legs, and return of Chief Ngqika, the Fort Cox Memorial 1829 after fighting numerous wars against The road passes through dense clumps of to the village via the same track. Hogsback – Sandile Dam – Burnshill and the site of the Burnshill Wagon Dis- British Settlers. trees and over a number of bridges and (109 km circular route) aster, in which Xhosa warriors captured The Sandile Dam was named after causeways that cross running rivers and Happy Valley loop (60 km) This loop with its many points of historical most of 125 British ammunition and ra- Chief Ngqika’s son Mgolombane Sandile streams. A flash flood left a head-high To reach the Happy Valley loop, turn interest runs past some Xhosa villages, the tions wagons after a fierce battle in 1846. who became paramount chief of the wall of debris at one causeway, some right at the T-junction with the road be- Sandile Dam and Burnshill and returns to Of the three, only the Fort Cox Memorial amaRharhabe, one of two factions of the 13 km before the tarred R63. tween Cathcart and Fort Beaufort/Sey- Hogsback via Alice. Head east out of the is clearly indicated on the gravel road. You Xhosa monarchy, in 1840. Sandile fought in From the R63 it’s on to Hogsback via mour northwest of the village. Continue village on Wolfridge Rd. Some 3 km from will need the help of someone who knows three Frontier Wars: the War of the Axe (the Fort Beaufort and Alice. for some 8 km and turn right at the sign the village there’s a picnic spot under a tree the area in finding the others. (Garmin’s Seventh Frontier War, 1846-7), the War of indicating the Happy Valley loop. from where you can hike to the Madonna- Streetmaps indicate Sandile’s grave and Mlanjeni (the Eighth Frontier War, 1850-3) Hogsback: Plaatjieskraal Road (6 km) A tunnel of trees less than 2 km from and-Child Falls and the Big Tree. Fort Cox, but Tracks4Africa only shows and the War of Ngcayechibi (the Ninth If you can only do three of the vast net- the start swallows you and spits you out Drive 2 km further and you reach the Fort Cox.) Frontier War, 1877-8). During the War of the work of gravel roads in and around at a poplar lane about 500 m further. Robinson’s / Wolfridge Dam on the left At the Fort Cox Memorial, some 11 km Axe he became renowned for eluding the Hogsback, make sure it’s the short The road snakes over some causeways where you could cool down on a hot day. along the gravel road from the T-junction, British, despite being crippled, during inten- Plaatjieskraal Road from the village, the and streams while you are constantly sur- With the Three Hogsback Mountains in some text plaques have been half ripped Fellow visitor. Flocks of small Amur falcons, summer sive man-hunts in the Amatole forests. pastoral 60 km Happy Valley loop and the rounded by a bowl of mountains. the background, it is a seriously pretty spot. off. One of numerous military posts es- migrants, can be seen along the Happy Valley loop. During the War of Ngcayechibi, Sandile 102 km Sandile Dam/Burnshill loop that It gets even better when, around the The 52-km-long Kings Neck 4x4 tablished during the Frontier Wars, Fort was mortally wounded in the Isidenge returns to Hogsback via some historical 16 km mark, a rider appears on horseback Trail starts on the left another 2 km fur- Cox was built in 1847. The Fort Cox Forests near Stutterheim in 1878. He was sites and Alice. behind two border collies herding a flock of ther. A track that, 500 m from the start, College of Agriculture and Forestry now apparently cared for by his followers in Running through a pine forest and past sheep up the hill. Storks are stalking insects veers off to the left along the base of marks the site where the fort used to be. a cave in the forest, but died after a few a dam to a viewpoint where you have a clear in the field. Scores of little Amur falcons are Hog 1 of the Three Hogsback Moun- A short way on, you drive through days. The captain of the British forces panorama of the surrounding mountains, perching on telephone lines, while up in the tains provides distant views to the south. Burnshill, where British forces were de- ordered that his body be found and he was the Plaatjieskraal Road out to the north- sunny, clear-blue sky, buzzards are scouring The main track soon becomes so rutted feated in a skirmish during the War of given a ceremonial burial. west gives you an instant idea of what the the earth for prey. And then, as the cherry that it calls for a 4x4 or bakkie with diff the Axe (1846 – 47). It’s also here where In an effort to end rumours that Sandile hoo-hah about the village is about. From on top, an African paradise flycatcher calls lock and more ground clearance than the Chief Ngqika lies buried. had been beheaded and his head sent back Main Road in the village, the road leads its distinctive “zway-ter” as it flies past in Captiva’s paltry 178 mm. I retreat to the At a T-junction some 7 km from Burn- to England as a trophy, his remains were through a pine plantation from where you the fresh early-morning air. Magic. main gravel road. shill you hit the tarred R63 between Al- exhumed and examined in 2005. An intact soon have a view of The Edge, an abyss on The gravel road rolls past farms up Some 2 km further, the road runs ice and King William’s Town. Turn right, skeleton was found. His grave is about the western edge of the village. to a T-junction at the 33 km mark. From through a dense indigenous forest, with a towards Alice, and right again onto the 16 km from Stutter­heim at the foot of Mount As you pass out of the plantation, a here, via a left turn onto the R345 from waterfall right next to it. The road ambles R345 to Hogsback. Kemp in the Isiden­ ­ge Forest Estate. It can big dam comes into view on the right. Cathcart, it returns to Hogsback through through the forest for a number of kilo- be reached by taking the N6 from East London to Stut­ter­heim and turning left onto Continue to a farm gate and drive onto a rolling hills. metres before it enters open area on the As you drive back into the peace- Collective headstone. The Fort Cox Memorial near short cement road that leads up to a mi- Some 17 km further you drive past a mountainside and runs past the village of ful forests of the mountaintop village, Burnshill is a reminder of the lives that were lost in a secondary road. The route is signposted. crowave tower, where a jeep track veers quaint little church on the left that is worth Izingcuka at the 11 km mark. which was spared the bloodshed of the the Eastern Cape Frontier Wars in the 18th Century.

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Happy hours. Along the picturesque Happy Valley loop, which moseys along streams and over hills near Hogsback, the challenge is to decide where not to stop for pictures.

Frontier Wars in the 1800s, it is hard to believe that the plains below echoed En route with battle cries of Xhosa warriors and British colonisers until a mere 133 years What were you driving? Chevrolet Captiva Map, Baviaans Tourism Map ago, when the Ninth Frontier War end- 3-litre V6 Where can I stay and what are the costs? ed in 1879. How far did you drive? 2 707 km There are many options, but we stayed here: Nowadays, judging by the townsfolk’s Fuel consumption? Average 13.1 litres/100 km Hogsback ­– Hidden Away B&B: R500 for 2 gripes, it seems that the worst – merci- over highway and gravel road adults (bed and breakfast) and two children, fully bloodless – clashes between the Road conditions? Mostly good who sleep in a loft. Children 5 – 12 years pay descendants of these parties centre on Do you need 4x4 or diff lock? No R30 per person extra for breakfast. Contact life-and-death issues such as littering and Best things to do? Drive slowly and have a Quinton and Jeannette Dick on 045 962 1238 boom-box noise in the arboretum during good look around or 083 449 8960; [email protected] public holidays, the lack of repairs to the Best places to stop? From the top of rises Other contact numbers? potholed main road, erratic refuse collec- between Klaarstroom and Willowmore you Baviaans Tourism Office, Willowmore: tion and blackouts. have distant views over the mountains. Stop Contact Jane Zaayman 044 923 1702, But during a champagne breakfast at on the last stretch between Steytlerville and 083 420 54 34; [email protected]; a table creaking with everything from a Uitenhage to see game. Near Hogsback, the www.baviaans.co.za rhubarb starter to freshly baked blue- dam area along the Plaatjieskraal Road is Baviaans Tourism Office, Steytlerville: berry scones at the Hidden Away guest- seriously scenic, and you can picnic anywhere Contact Corné Henderson 049 835 0484, house, I learn the locals aren’t doing too along the Happy Valley loop. There are a num- 084 511 6806; [email protected] badly. Besides, it’s nothing a clean-up op- ber of historical points of interest along the Hogsback Information Centre: Contact eration now and then, a compost heap or Sandile Dam/Burnshill loop. Elloise Willard on 045 962 1245; infohogs­ two, a recycling service and some candles Best map? The AA’s Eastern Cape Touring [email protected]; www.hogsback.com can’t remedy …

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