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Jeju Island Rambling: Self-Exile in Peace Corps, 1973-1974

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Jeju Island Rambling: Self-Exile in Peace Corps, 1973-1974 Jeju Island Rambling: Self-exile in Peace Corps, 1973-1974 David J. Nemeth ©2014 ~ 2 ~ To Hae Sook and Bobby ~ 3 ~ Table of Contents Chapter 1 Flying to Jeju in 1973 JWW Vol. 1, No. 1 (January 1, 2013) ~17~ Chapter 2 Hwasun memories (Part 1) JWW Vol. 1, No. 2 (January 8, 2013) ~21~ Chapter 3 Hwasun memories (Part 2) JWW Vol. 1, No. 3 (January 15, 2013) ~25~ Chapter 4 Hwasun memories (Part 3) JWW Vol. 1, No. 4 (January 22, 2013) ~27~ Chapter 5 The ‘Resting Cow’ unveiled (Udo Island Part 1) JWW Vol. 1, No. 5 (January 29, 2013) ~29~ Chapter 6 Close encounters of the haenyeo kind (Udo Island Part 2) JWW Vol. 1, No. 6 (February 5, 2013) ~32~ Chapter 7 Mr. Bu’s Jeju Island dojang (Part 1) JWW Vol. 1, No. 7 (February 12, 2013) ~36~ Chapter 8 Mr. Bu’s dojang (Part 2) JWW Vol. 1, No. 8 (February 19, 2013) ~38~ Chapter 9 Mr. Bu’s dojang (Part 3) JWW Vol. 1, No. 9 (February 26, 2013) ~42~ Chapter 10 Mr. Bu’s dojang (Part 4) JWW Vol. 1, No. 10 (March 5, 2013) ~44~ Chapter 11 Unexpected encounters with snakes, spiders and 10,000 crickets (Part 1) JWW Vol. 1, No. 11 (March 12, 2013) ~46~ Chapter 12 Unexpected encounters with snakes, spiders and 10,000 crickets (Part 2) JWW Vol. 1, No. 12 (March 19, 2013) ~50~ Chapter 13 Unexpected encounters with snakes, spiders and 10,000 crickets (Part 3) JWW Vol. 1, No. 13 (March 26, 2013) ~55~ Chapter 14 Unexpected encounters with snakes, spiders and 10,000 crickets (Part 4) JWW Vol. 1, No. 14 (April 2, 2013) ~58~ Chapter 15 The ‘China Smith’ of Cheju Island (Part 1) JWW Vol. 1, No. 15 (April 9, 2013) ~62~ ~ 4 ~ Chapter 16 The ‘China Smith’ of Cheju Island (Part 2) JWW Vol. 1, No. 16 (April 16, 2013) ~66~ Chapter 17 The ‘China Smith’ of Cheju Island (Part 3) JWW Vol. 1, No. 17 (April 23, 2013) ~69~ Chapter 18 ‘Name that oreum!’ (Part 1) JWW Vol. 1, No. 18 (April 30, 2013) ~71~ Chapter 19 ‘Name that oreum!’ (Part 2) JWW Vol. 1, No. 19 (May 7, 2013) ~75~ Chapter 20 ‘Name that oreum!’ (Part 3) JWW Vol. 1, No. 20 (May 14, 2013) ~79~ Chapter 21 ‘Name that oreum!’ (Part 4) JWW Vol. 1, No. 21 (May 21, 2013) ~83~ Chapter 22 ‘Name that oreum!’ (Part 5) JWW Vol. 1, No. 22 (May 29, 2013) ~87~ Chapter 23 ‘Search and Destroy’ on Jeju Island, circa 1702 (Part 1) JWW Vol. 1, No. 23 (June 4, 2013) ~91~ Chapter 24 ‘Search and Destroy’ on Jeju Island, circa 1702 (Part 2) JWW Vol. 1, No. 24 (June 11, 2013) ~96~ Chapter 25 ‘Search and Destroy’ on Jeju Island, circa 1702 (Part 3) JWW Vol. 1, No. 25 (June 18, 2013) ~100~ Chapter 26 ‘Search and Destroy’ on Jeju Island, circa 1702 (Part 4) JWW Vol. 1, No. 26 (June 25, 2013) ~104~ Chapter 27 ‘Search and Destroy’ on Jeju Island, circa 1702 (Part 5) JWW Vol. 1, No. 27 (July 2, 2013) ~107~ Chapter 28 The Tiger Division meets ‘Travelling Sam, Peace Corps Man’ (Part 1) JWW Vol. 1, No. 28 (July 9, 2013) ~112~ Chapter 29 The Tiger Division meets ‘Travelling Sam, Peace Corps Man’ (Part 2) JWW Vol. 1, No. 29 (July 17, 2013) ~115~ Chapter 30 The Tiger Division meets ‘Travelling Sam, Peace Corps Man’ (Part 3) JWW Vol. 1, No. 30 (July 24, 2013) ~119~ Chapter 31 The Tiger Division meets ‘Travelling Sam, Peace Corps Man’ (Part 4) JWW Vol. 1, No. 31 (July 30, 2013) ~124~ ~ 5 ~ Chapter 32 A preliminary roll call of Cheju Island Peace Corps Volunteers, 1966-1981 JWW Vol. 1, No. 32 (August 7, 2013) ~127~ Chapter 33 The jacket JWW Vol. 1, No. 33 (August 14, 2013) ~131~ Chapter 34 The Illustrated Peace Corps Man (Part 1) JWW Vol. 1, No. 34 (August 21, 2013) ~134~ Chapter 35 The Illustrated Peace Corps Man (Part 2) JWW Vol. 1, No. 35 (August 27, 2013) ~139~ Chapter 36 The Illustrated Peace Corps Man (Part 3) JWW Vol. 1, No. 36 (September 3, 2013) ~145~ Chapter 37 The Illustrated Peace Corps Man (Part 4) JWW Vol. 1, No. 37 (September 10, 2013) ~149~ Chapter 38 The Illustrated Peace Corps Man (Part 5) JWW Vol. 1, No. 38 (September 17, 2013) ~153~ Chapter 39 The Illustrated Peace Corps Man (Part 6) JWW Vol. 1, No. 39 (September 24, 2013) ~158~ Chapter 40 You Can Return but You Can’t Go Back (Part 1) JWW Vol. 1, No. 40 (October 1, 2013) ~165~ Chapter 41 You Can Return but You Can’t Go Back (Part 2) JWW Vol. 1, No. 41 (October 8, 2013) ~168~ Chapter 42 You Can Return but You Can’t Go Back (Part 3) JWW Vol. 1, No. 42 (October 15, 2013) ~172~ Chapter 43 Fred’s maze and his secret compound in the shape of a cat JWW Vol. 1, No. 43 (October 22, 2013) ~176~ Chapter 44 Cat Man Do! JWW Vol. 1, No. 44 (October 29, 2013) ~186~ Chapter 45 The stink eye JWW Vol. 1, No. 45 (November 5, 2013) ~188~ Chapter 46 Diving for coin JWW Vol. 1, No. 46 (November 12, 2013) ~193~ Chapter 47 ‘Jeju Ireland’ JWW Vol. 1, No. 47 (November 19, 2013) ~198~ ~ 6 ~ Chapter 48 Camaraderie JWW Vol. 1, No. 48 (November 26, 2013) ~201~ Chapter 49 Artificial islands JWW Vol. 1, No. 49 (December 3, 2013) ~206~ Chapter 50 Shon, Pitts, Dustin, DeNoon and the ‘Hawaii of Korea’ JWW Vol. 1, No. 50 (December 10, 2013) ~211~ Chapter 51 Land’s end JWW Vol. 1, No. 51 (December 17, 2013) ~216~ Chapter 52 ‘Skidoo,’ a final chapter JWW Vol. 1, No. 52 (December 24, 2013) ~221~ ~ 7 ~ Table of Illustrations Figure 1-1: KAL Fokker Friendship F-27 circa 1973. ~17~ Figure 1-2: Moment of truth (artist and title unknown). ~19~ Figure 2-1: The Hwasun village guard on my right, photographed in 1973 and in 1979. ~22~ Figure 2-2: The Hwasun village guard on my left, photographed in 1973 and in 1979. ~23~ Figure 5-1: A three-century old p’ungsu map of Udo a.k.a. “Cow Island.” ~29~ Figure 5-2: A topographic map of Udo. ~29~ Figure 6-1: Topography of Udo Island. (Source: OpenStreetMap.org) ~33~ Figure 6-2: The author, aged 31, gazes at the sea from the Udo coast in 1973. ~35~ Figure 8-1: Moondoggy; my imaginary companion. ~38~ Figure 8-2: A tudum dol in Seongup Village. Mr. Song describes its significance. ~39~ Figure 8-3: A tudum dol in Hallim Town. Resident Mr. Pak validates its significance. ~40~ Figure 8-4: The impressive rotund tudum dol of Gosan Village. ~41~ Figure 8-5: A youngster accepts the challenge of a long-neglected Jeju Island tudum dol. ~41~ Figure 10-1: The author on the roof of Mr. Bu’s dojang with Moondoggy, 1973 ~45~ Figure 11-1: a snake in the grass; “Can you see me?” ~48~ Figure 11-2: “Can you see me now?”Figure 12-1: Compound layout of my hasukjib. ~49~ Figure 12-1: Compound layout of my hasukjib. ~51~ Figure 12-2: Nephila clavata, a.k.a “golden orb web-weaver, a.k.a. sorceress spider, a.k.a. harlot spider, a.k.a. “whore!” ~54~ Figure 13-1: My hasuk compound map. ~55~ Figure 14-1: A Jeju privy circa 1974. ~59~ Figure 15-1: “China Smith” on an Admiral television set circa 1953. ~63~ ~ 8 ~ Figure 15-2: The “China Smith” of Cheju Island. Photo contributed by Jim Shon, Cheju PCV (circa 1971) ~65~ Figure 16-1: “Ilhas dos ladrones” apprsring on Ortelius’ map of Japan and Korea (1595). ~66~ Figure 16-2: KPCVs residing on Jeju Island in late 1973. These Volunteers (kneeling, left to right) James, Cindy and Steve and (standing, left to right) Tom, Jack and me. Our host, Fred (“China Smith”) Dustin is standing at the left. ~68~ Figure 18-1: Photograph of a mystery volcanic cinder cone. ~71~ Figure 18-2: Nobody won, but Darangshi Oreum (above) would have been a good guess. ~72~ Figure 18-3: P’ungsu map drawn several centuries ago and attributed to the Chinese geomancer T’ak Ok Chong. ~73~ Figure 19-1: “Old” Schonchin Butte, Lava Beds National Monument, in north-eastern California, site of the Modoc War. ~76~ Figure 19-2: Captain Jack, War Chief at the height of the Modoc War, here portrayed by Charles Bronson in the film “Drum Beat” (1954). Warner Bros. ~77~ Figure 19-3: Captain Jack’s Cave within Captain Jack’s Stronghold, Lava Beds National Monument. ~78~ Figure 20-1” Curly-Headed-Doctor, Modoc shaman, 1873.(Frankly, given a million years I couldn’t distinguish him from an indigenous Jeju Islander. Could you?). ~80~ Figure 20-2: Argentine lobby poster of “Drum Beat” (1954) featuring Alan Ladd (representing Manifest Destiny) and Charles Bronson (representing Modoc Resistance). ~82~ Figure 21-1: “Surrender of the Modocs.” A magazine engraving from 1873. ~85~ Figure 21-2: The author and Mr. Yang at the mouth of lava tube cave in the vicinity of Darangshi Oreum. ~86~ Figure 22-1: Magistrate Yi Hyong-sang inspecting the herds on Jeju Island, near Hallim. ~88~ Figure 22-2: Magistrate Yi’s “search and destroy” task force at work (small image). ~89~ Figure 22-3: Figure 22-2: Magistrate Yi’s “search and destroy” task force (large image).
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