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4 Introduction Best New Restaurants Best Sous Chefs 12 5 Fifty 5 28 William Briand Special photo section 12 MiLa 29 Larry Herbert 20 Culinary Connoisseurs 13 Nathan’s Restaurant 29 Mike Nelson event photos 13 New City Grille Best Sommeliers Best Fine Dining Best Caterers 30 Michael Juan Establishments 14 Fleur de lis New Orleans Cuisine 30 Chris Ycaza

6 Antoine’s Restaurant 14 Food Art Aymami Cover photo by Frank 6 The Dakota Restaurant 15 Martin Wine Cellar Best Pastry Chefs 7 August 15 Patton’s Caterers 31 Beth Biundo 31 Tariq Hanna Best Casual Upscale Dining Best Owners 32 Chris Newton Published by the NOPG LLC Establishments 16 John Besh — also honored 111 Veterans Memorial Blvd., 8 Drago’s Seafood Restaurant as a Best Executive Chef Best Maitre D’s Suite 1440, Metairie, La. 70005 8 Lüke — also honored 16 Tommy Cvitanovich 33 Robin Bordelon 504-834-9292; Fax: 504-837-2258. as a Best New Restaurant 17 The Tastebuds: Greg Reggio, 33 Vedran Komazec 9 Sal & Judy’s Hans Limburg, Gary Darling 34 Sergio Lopez Publisher and president: D. Mark Singletary 9 Tommy’s Cuisine Associate Publisher: Lisa Blossman Best Executive Chefs Legends Managing Editor: Greg LaRose Best Neighborhood Dining 18 Rene Bajeux 35 Leah Chase Associate editors: Christian Moises, Autumn Giusti, Establishments 18 Kim Kringlie 35 Paul Prudhomme Renee Aragon Dolese, Deon Roberts 10 Blue Duck Café 24 Brian Landry Art director: Alex Borges, Lisa Finnan 10 Byblos Restaurant 24 Donald Link Lifetime Achievement Account Executives: Liz Baldini, Jeanne Farrell, Cassie 11 Deanie’s Seafood — Bucktown 26 Duke LoCicero 36 Shirley Anthony Foreman, Ginger Graf, Coco Evans Judd 11 Mother’s Restaurant 26 Spencer Minch 36 Marie Laborde Production manager: Julie Bernard 27 Darin Nesbit 37 Dalton Milton 27 Mike Regua 38 Shirley Rubin 28 Susan Spicer

New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 3 Introduction 50 professionals make menu for 1st Culinary Connoisseurs

EVERYONE LOVES TO EAT. No place is that more true than in New Orleans, with our world- famous cuisine, award-winning chefs and historic restaurants. CityBusiness realized last year that of all the industries we honor each year, one of the region’s largest — the culinary industry — was not in our lineup. According to the Louisiana Restaurant By Christian Moises Association: Associate Editor • Louisiana restaurants have an annual economic impact of $9.9 billion. • Every $1 spent in Louisiana restaurants gener- ates an additional $1.05 in sales for other indus- tries in the state. • The restaurant industry is the state’s largest pri- vate retail employer, providing jobs to 132,300 state residents and another 55,000 jobs that sup- ply the industry. These figures represent 10.4 percent of private employment in the state. • Each additional $1 million spent in restaurants generates an additional 44.5 jobs in the state. It is only fitting we raise a glass to the restau- rants and people who make that happen with the inaugural class of Culinary Connoisseurs, recog- nizing 50 top professionals and establishments in the region’s culinary industry based on cuisine, business success and community involvement. Honorees were divided into 13 categories: best fine dining establishments, best casual upscale din- ing establishments, best neighborhood dining establishments, best new restaurants, best caterers, best owners, best executive chefs, best sous chefs, best pastry chefs, best sommeliers, best maitre d’s, legends and lifetime achievement. Many people know John Besh, Leah Chase and Tommy Cvitanovich, but what about pastry chef Chris Newton, the 22-year veteran at Brigtsen’s restaurant; sous chef William Briand, who special- izes in butchering at Cochon; or caterer Marie Hasney, whose Fleur de Lis New Orleans Cuisine has catered the Jazz Fest Hospitality Tent and VIP area for the past three years. The people profiled in the following pages are the ones who make our culinary industry so famous, so successful and one of the biggest rea- sons people worldwide know and visit us. Our world-renowned restaurants not only sur- vived Hurricane Katrina but continue to provide the quality service and food they have for more than a century. In addition to countless hours of community service their staff members provide, they have also made a commitment to support our local producers by frequenting area farmer’s mar- kets and seafood suppliers. CityBusiness thanks each of them for their tasty contributions to the region and for their commit- ment to the New Orleans area. Congratulations to the 50 Culinary Connoisseurs of 2008.•

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New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 5 Best Antoine’s Fine Dining Establishments Restaurant Interview with owner Rick Blount

Executive chef: Mike Regua Community involvement: Antoine’s has tried, especially post-Katrina, to be a good citizen in our Opened: 1841 community in every way we can. We’ve participated in every festival and either donated food or services Price range: Between $50 or gift certificates to more charities and schools than and $75 per person. I can even remember because to us, it’s just so important our community gets to survive. Cuisine: Antoine’s is proud to have been one of the businesses and one of the families that helped define Most notable guests: New Orleans cuisine as we experience it today. My My great-grandfather and grandfather have collected great-great-grandfather, Antoine Alciatore, was a clas- autographs from everyone from all the presidents to sically trained chef in France when he came to the pope to Lucille Ball to Dennis Quaid. Everybody America. But when he got here, the foods he was who’s anybody has dined with us. trained to cook weren’t available. So he and many other Europeans took their craft and applied it to very Major milestones: different food groups, and the results were extraordi- We’ve had lots of tough times. The Civil War in the nary. Oysters Rockefeller, Pompano en Papillote, Eggs early days of the restaurant was not good for Sardou were all original dishes here at Antoine’s. Antoine’s. Reconstruction wasn’t exactly a lot of fun. The two world wars, Prohibition, all left the restau- Noted for: Antoine’s is the quintessential New rant with scars. And so did Hurricane Katrina. But Orleans experience; we strive to be the epitome of one of the toughest things for our business has been that. The dining rooms were all themed and built keeping the business alive and healthy through gen- many, many decades ago, some well over 100 years erations. It’s a family business and keeping the fami- ago. The menu is classic New Orleans cuisine — ly healthy is a big challenge for us.• Antoine’s server French Creole. The full service, black-tie service style, Johnny Messina we hope, is the finest in the city. — Leah Bartos serves dessert to Wendy Chatelain and Jeff Orkes. Photo by Frank Aymami

Best The Dakota Fine Dining Establishments Restaurant Interview with owner Kenny LaCour

Executive chef: Kim Kringlie Noted for: Creating an atmos- Notable guests: phere where people can have a Justice Antonin Scalia, Opened: 1990 good time and enjoy the kind of Archbishop Hannan — who is Louisiana food they like to a frequent guest — Kevin Price range: Guests coming come back for again and again. Costner, Diane Carroll, Samuel in may want to enjoy an adult L. Jackson, former Gov. Mike beverage or maybe just have an Community involvement: Foster, Candy Picou, the former entrée and move on to desert. We don’t contribute to and focus wife of Edwin Edwards, and In the latter example, it would on just one particular cause, but Johnnie Cochran. be somewhere in the $45 to people come and knock on our $55 range. In the former exam- door and ask for our help. We do Major milestones: Surviving ple, it would naturally be a little everything from hosting charity Katrina certainly, but also sur- more. events to setting up a table at a viving a series of different eco- particular event to donating gift nomic downturns. We went Cuisine: I have always certificates and having private through the oil downturn and referred to it as contemporary, dinners in people’s homes. As now are going through the real continental Louisianian. It is long as it is something we can estate downturn.• kind of a blend of all the differ- actually afford, we feel it is an ent cuisines of our state. important part of what we do. — Garry Boulard

Photo by Shannon Diecidue

6 Culinary Connoisseurs Server captain Michael LaSalle greets Dannelle August Mustin at August. Best Fine Dining Establishments Restaurant Interview with Besh Restaurant Group Partner Octavio Mantilla

Executive chef: John Besh the St. Tammany Sheriff’s Office, the National World War II Museum, Justice for All Ball, the Opened: September 2001 Kidney Gala, the Southern Food and Beverage Museum and the James Beard Foundation. Price range: Between $22 and $38. Most notable guests: Every person who Cuisine: Contemporary French cuisine with walks through the door. We’ve also had U2, local New Orleans ingredients. Tommy Lee Jones, Brad Pitt, Jimmy Buffett, Michael Jordan, Dr. J (Julius Erving); San Noted for: Everything on the menu is pretty Antonio Spurs coach Gregg Popovich eats here much grown and raised by local farmers. every night when they are on a road trip; Supporting local farmers through our menu is a President Bush and the First Lady; and Renee big focus of our executive chef, John Besh. Our Zellweger. customers know they are getting local ingredients. Major milestones: Being ranked No. 1 in Community involvement: New Orleans for food and service by Zagat; Best We provide food, service and event consulting Chef, Southeast, given to Executive Chef John for a lot of local charities and organizations such Besh by the James Beard Foundation, being as St. Luke, St. Joseph’s Altar, the LA/SPCA, the named among the Top 50 restaurants in the Contemporary Arts Center, the French-American United States by Gourmet and being named Chamber of Commerce, several Catholic chari- among the Top 40 restaurants in the United ties, several New Orleans schools, Café States by Gayot — The 2006 Restaurant Issue.• Reconcile, the Preservation Resource Center of New Orleans, the New Orleans Wine and Food — Tommy Santora Experience, the New Orleans Police Department,

Photo by Frank Aymami

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New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 7 Drago’s server Gina Baccabio displays the restaurant’s signature Best Casual Drago’s seafood charbroiled oysters. Upscale Dining Restaurant Establishments Interview with owner Tommy Cvitanovich

Owner/Manager: ing a great dish like Maine lobster Most notable guests: Tommy Cvitanovich and Klara B. and adding Louisiana flair to it Actors, actresses, politicians and Cvitanovich, son and mother with shrimp, oysters and good, athletes all patronize Drago’s. down home Louisiana cooking. Opened: 1969 Major milestones: Community involvement: We gave away more than 70,000 Price range: Between $30 and Since Hurricane Katrina, the meals after Hurricane Katrina. As a $35 per person. restaurant has given away more result of our efforts, we received than $150,000 to several New the Restaurant Neighbor Award Cuisine: Drago’s is a New Orleans charities and organizations from the National Restaurant Orleans-style seafood restaurant. such as Children’s Hospital, Association in 2006. We were the We offer very high quality food Sunshine Kids, the New Orleans first Louisiana restaurant to receive served efficiently and fast for a Police Department, St. Clement of such recognition. Last year’s open- really good price. That’s the secret Rome Church and numerous oth- ing of a second location in down- to our success. ers. Drago’s is also represented in town New Orleans was another the New Orleans Restaurant notable accomplishment. To date, Noted for: We invented the char- Association, the Louisiana that restaurant is enjoying the same broiled oyster, which is now found Restaurant Association and the success as our founding Metairie on menus throughout New Louisiana Seafood Promotion location. Local patrons account for Orleans. We also sell more lob- Board. the majority of its clientele.• sters than any another restaurant in the area. We are known for tak- — Nayita Wilson

Photo by Frank Aymami

Lüke Executive Chef Jared Jees prepares a sandwich during the lunch rush. Best Casual Best New Upscale LüKe Dining Restaurants Establishments Interview with general manager Blake LeMaire

Executive chef: Jared Tees price. It’s the hospitable casual Museum and the James Beard dining experience people enjoy Foundation. Opened: May 1, 2007 about this place. Most notable guests: Price range: Between $13 Community involvement: The hundreds of people who come and $27. We provide food, service and in every day. We have had a ton of event consulting for a lot of local celebrities such as Sela Ward, Luke Cuisine: Traditional brasserie charities and organizations such Wilson, Lisa Marie Presley, Chris fare with French, German and as St. Luke, St. Joseph’s Altar, the Paul, Tyson Chandler eats here after New Orleans influences. LA/SPCA, the Contemporary Arts every (Hornets) game, the Counting Center, the French-American Crows, Doc Rivers ate here during Noted for: The brasserie fea- Chamber of Commerce, several the NBA All-Star Game and Brittany tures include rattan bistro chairs, Catholic charities, several New Murphy orders food out from us blackboard specials and newspa- Orleans schools, Café Reconcile, every time she’s in town. per racks. We also have a sweep- the Preservation Resource Center ing seafood display and elaborate of New Orleans, the New Orleans Major milestones: pulley-and-belt driven ceiling fans, Wine and Food Experience, the Being named Best New and an early air-conditioning sys- New Orleans Police Department, Restaurant by New Orleans tem first admired by visitors in the the St. Tammany Police Magazine, The Times-Picayune 1880s that has been re-created. Department, the National World and Gambit Weekly in our first Customers say all the time we War II Museum, the Justice for All year of business.• have value, selection and quality Ball, the Kidney Gala, the of menu and great food for a low Southern Food and Beverage — Tommy Santora

Photo by Frank Aymami 8 Culinary Connoisseurs Best Casual Upscale Sal and Judy’s Dining Establishments Interview with owner and executive chef Sal Impastato

Opened: I opened Sal and Judy’s the great flavors of Louisiana. … restaurant are notable. But if you in 1974 in Lacombe with my wife, We offer large portions for rea- are referring to celebrities we Judy. The original restaurant was sonable prices. We have one cus- have had, a few come through to about 1,800 square feet. Lacombe tomer who has been coming in eat here. John Goodman is a reg- reminded me of my hometown in every Wednesday for dinner for ular here when he is in town. Also Sicily, and I love to fish. the past 32 years, always ordering many politicians ... Edwin either the veal or the lasagna. Edwards, Dave Treen, Frank Price range: Entrees range from Sinatra’s daughter, Nancy. $10 to $25. Community involvement: Professional football and baseball Each year we invite less fortunate players like to come and eat here. Cuisine: Creole-Italian cuisine. children to the restaurant around Traditional, family-style recipes of Christmas and make them a nice Major milestones: Sicily accented with Creole spices dinner, and Santa comes and In the year 2000, we began con- and local Louisiana ingredients. brings gifts to the kids. I donate gift struction on the new restaurant certificates and food to local right next door to the original Sal Noted for: Sal and Judy’s is fundraisers. Locally we try and help and Judy’s. I really wanted to noted for its Creole Italian cuisine. out the recreation and fire depart- update the kitchen and expand the The menu has not changed much ment by donating time and food. dining room so guests could have since we opened. I have taken more room to dine here.• many of my family’s recipes from Most notable guests: Sicily and combined them with All of my guests who eat at the — Thomas Leggett

Photo by Shannon Diecidue

Tommy’s Cuisine owner Tommy Andrade greets customers Mike and Sherri Duvall. Best Casual Tommy’s Upscale Dining Establishments Cuisine Interview with owner Tommy Andrade

Executive chef: Milton Prudence. Community involvement: Milton was the chef at Galatoire’s I am not affiliated with any type of Restaurant for 35 years. I opened organization, but I volunteer donations Tommy’s after I separated from my in the form of money or gift certifi- wife, Irene, (Tommy and Irene owned cates to almost anyone who calls. Irene’s Cuisine) and hired Milton. Most notable guests: Opened: 2002 We have had movie stars, but I am not a Hollywood person. My waiters Price range: Between $19 and $24. tell me they appear.

Cuisine: In my previous restaurant Inspiration to work in the — Irene’s Cuisine — I had Italian cui- culinary industry: sine. Now I’m near the convention cen- Actually, I did not plan it. I worked at ter, where people tend to want New the Fairmont for a summer job. A Orleans French cuisine. three-month job turned into a 20-year job. I was fortunate. The people I Noted for: I worked for the Fairmont served there were very appreciative of Hotel restaurant (Sazerac) for 20 the food and service. I finished college, years, since 1968. I then opened but instead of going into my field, I Irene’s for 13 years, and now I have stayed in this business. I guess I take Tommy’s. I feel like I’m a part of this after my mother. She was a great host city. It’s a wonderful experience to be and cook. Years went by, I enjoyed in the restaurant business here what I did, and I continued to do it.• because people appreciate the food. I’m originally from Guatemala City. — Amy Ferrara Smith Photo by Frank Aymami

New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 9 Photo by Hector San Miguel Blue Duck Best Neighborhood Dining Establishments Café Interview with executive chef Briant Smith

Opened: March 2007 Occasionally, we cook a big meal and deliver it to the shelter. We’re Price range: Between $6 and $12. also involved in the downtown development commission in Lake Cuisine: Po-boys, soups, salads Charles. We’re trying to rebuild this area. Noted for: Lake Charles is a big chain city — Chili’s and Outback Most notable guests: … places like that. I knew what we The mayor and the police chief, really needed was a good French and we have about half the Quarter po-boy shop. Lake Charles lawyers in Lake Charles in here didn’t have any place that really every afternoon. But, then again, celebrated true Louisiana food. all of my customers are important. Plus, we’re the only blues club in Lake Charles. Blue Duck Café is Major milestones: the closest thing to New Orleans Making it through our first year. We outside New Orleans. opened on an absolute minimum budget with no advertising whatso- Community involvement: ever, and everyone said I was out We take a collection on nights we of my mind. But by the end of the play music and pass that money third week, we broke even.• on to the women and children at Calcasieu Parish Women’s Shelter. — Katie Urbaszewski

Byblos Best Neighborhood Dining Establishments Restaurant Interview with general manager James Mathes

Executive chef: Tarek Tuy schools and various charity events, including Art for Art’s Sake, Love in the Garden and the Justice Opened: The Metairie Road location opened in For All Ball. 1993. There are also restaurants on Magazine Street, in Lakeside Shopping Center, on the Tulane Most notable guests: University campus and a Byblos Market location in Various actors, including Jude Law, John Cusack Metairie. and William Hurt. Political people include New Orleans Mayor C. Ray Nagin and City Price range: Entrees range between $12 and $25. Councilwoman Stacy Head.

Cuisine: It started as Lebanese but has expanded Major milestones: to Mediterranean cuisine. Opening the second restaurant on Magazine Street, opening Zaya’s in Atlanta and being one of the first Noted for: Lamb kabobs and belly dancing on restaurants to reopen on Magazine Street three Thursday nights. weeks after Hurricane Katrina — it had minimal damage and about 90 percent of the staff returned.• Community involvement: Byblos provides food and gift cards for high — Lisa Bacques

Byblos server Tracey Patania drops off an appetizer for customers Gretchen Troiano, left, and Indie McKay. Photo by Frank Aymami 10 Culinary Connoisseurs Ashleigh Derrick reaches for an onion ring at Deanie’s Seafood in Bucktown. Best Deanie’s Neighborhood Dining Establishments Seafood Interview with executive chef Keith Chifici

Executive chefs: Barbara Chifici and at a reasonable value, but people really Keith Chifici love our barbecue shrimp.

Opened: Deanie’s Seafood was estab- Community involvement: lished in 1961 and was purchased from We donate time, food and gift certifi- the original owners by Frank and Barbara cates to a slew of organizations, Chifici on April 26, 1982. We opened our including schools and various charita- French Quarter location in 2002. ble events, and participate in cooking demonstrations for charitable causes. Price range: Our entrees average about $14. Most notable guests: Mickey Rooney, Harry Connick Jr., Cuisine: We serve basic New Orleans Lance Armstrong, Gene Hackman, Tom seafood, putting our own spin on lots Brady, Jessica Simpson and many of New Orleans favorites. We’re a more. “scratch house,” meaning we make everything in-house with the best ingre- Major milestones: Opening our sec- dients we can buy. Nothing comes in ond location at 841 Iberville St. in the pre-battered or pre-mixed. French Quarter was a major milestone in our business.• Noted for: We built our name and reputation on fried and boiled seafood — Thomas Leggett

Photo by Tracie Morris Schaefer

Photo by Tracie Morris Schaefer

Best mother’s Neighborhood Dining Establishments restaurant Interview with co-owner and executive chef Jerry Amato

General manager: Community involvement: Joe Balderas We help prepare for Christmas in July for Bridge House and participate in fundraisers Opened: 1938 for Crimestoppers, Night Out Against Crime, St. Michael’s Special School and Justice Price range: Between $8 and $21. for All.

Cuisine: New Orleans home cooking Most notable guests: President Bush and First Lady Laura Bush, Noted for: Po-boy sandwiches have been Gov. Kathleen Blanco, Gov. Bobby Jindal, served at Mother’s since 1938 by the restau- Lt. Gen. Russel Honore, Dr. John, Jimmy rant’s original owners, Simon and Mary Buffet, B.B. King, Alec Gifford, Canadian Landry. Their sons, Jack and Eddie, served Prime Minister Stephen Harper and groups in the Pacific during World War II, and the of young people here in town volunteering restaurant became a Marine hangout when to rebuild houses. they took over Mother’s in the ’60s. It was considered New Orleans’ version of a Tun Major milestones: Tavern, the name of the place in Philadelphia After Hurricane Katrina, the restaurant where the Marine Corps originated in 1775. reopened Oct. 15, 2005. Coast Guard Vice After the (National World War II) Museum Adm. Thad Allen, who replaced Federal opened, we had veterans coming in with Emergency Management Agency Director their kids and grandkids. We started putting Michael Brown, was the first customer to other branches of the service on the wall. be served. We heard a lot of stories. We were fortunate Mother’s server Stacie to have them. — Lisa Bacques Robinson delivers biscuits to Jennifer Waits and daughter Ella. New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 11 5 Fifty 5 Chef Mark Quitney serves a chef salad to Dennis Thureson, left, and David Epstein. Best New 5 fifty 5 Restaurants Interview with general manager Gil Zanchi

Executive chef: Mark Quitney Community involvement: We built two Kaboom playgrounds Opened: 2007 with the hotel last year for low- income areas. Our hotel (the New Price range: Between $12 Orleans Marriott) donated 10,000 and $25 hours of our labor to Habitat for Humanity. We also do the Cuisine: It’s a fresh approach to Children’s Miracle Network and food with a local flair. We have a donated close to $40,000 last year. wood-burning oven for meats and We also do a golf tournament for poultry and do things like aspara- them in November. gus and butternut squash soup. We serve breakfast, lunch and din- Most notable guests: ner, and we really work with local We’ve had some speakers at our produce. hotel. That could be Colin Powell, James Carville and others who Noted for: It’s in a hotel, so it’s in might sometimes end up in our a great lobby area. We call it “French restaurant. Quarter’s Grand Central, where excellence is experienced.” We’re Major milestones: the biggest hotel in the French None, it’s too new.• Quarter, so a lot of people come and meet in our lobby for a drink. — Craig Guillot

Photo by Tracie Morris Schaefer

MiLa co-executive chef Slade Rushing chats with De’Idra Lundi during lunch.

Best New MiLa Restaurants Interview with co-executive chef Slade Rushing

Executive chefs: Slade and Tian has caught on very well. It’s Allison Rushing New Orleans, so you have to offer a lot of seafood because people Opened: 2007 really want that. We use a lot of local seafood, which makes up as Price range: The appetizers much as 60 percent to 70 percent range between $7 and $15, and of our business. entrees range between $19 and $36. Most notable guests: Stevie Wonder came in to dine Cuisine: We serve “nouvelle New with us. Orleans,” which means new takes on New Orleans food. We’ve light- Major milestones: ened up things while using fresh Tom Fitzmorris’ five-star review in products. New Orleans CityBusiness was really nice for us. We’re excited by Noted for: The Oyster Rockefeller some of the nice mentions in local “Deconstructed” and the New publications. Overall, we just like Orleans Style Barbeque Lobster are making our customers happy.• two of our signatures. We change our menu frequently, but the Crab — Thomas Leggett

Photo by Frank Aymami 12 Culinary Connoisseurs Photo by Tracie Morris Schaefer Nathan’s Best New Restaurants Restaurant Interview with owner Ross Eirich

Executive chef: David Gooch staff. They are professional, and that makes our guests feel comfort- Opened: February 2008 able. We have a good product.

Price range: Between $16 and Community involvement: $29 We are doing a banquet for Habitat for Humanity and also are involved Cuisine: Seafood, steaks, chicken in fundraisers for St. Tammany and pasta. Parish schools and functions at area hospitals. Noted for: We’re still getting established, but we have our regu- Most notable guests: lar customers. We’re a family-ori- Slidell Mayor Ben Morris and vari- ented, comfortable place with a ous local politicians. friendly atmosphere. Our food is made fresh daily, and it is consis- Major milestones: Opening in tently good. The chef (David February.• Gooch) is a big part of that. We have good service and a dedicated — Lisa Bacques

Nathan’s Restaurant server Che Weigand delivers drinks to cus- tomers, from left, Lucille Bienvenu, Jane Kendrick and Audrey Olsen.

Photo by Tracie Morris Schaefer New City Best New Restaurants Grille Interview with owner Derrick Todd

Executive chef: of charitable events based on William Mauk the needs of regulars who fre- quent the restaurant. I often Opened: September 2006 make donations of gift certifi- cates to silent auctions. Price range: Between $10 and $30 Major milestones: The introduction of valet park- Cuisine: ing has relieved some of my I describe it as contemporary parking concerns. I’d also men- Creole/American. It’s everything tion the enlarging and opening from burgers to filets. of our new banquet room.

Noted for: The Gulf fish pecan Most notable guests: is highly touted among the Just Old Metairie’s finest. We’re staff. We also serve a vegetable a neighborhood restaurant in and a starch with every entrée, one of the most exclusive neigh- so it is not a la carte. borhoods in the country. You get a good assortment of people.• Community involvement: I’m involved in an assortment — Robin Shannon

New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 13 Fleur de Lis Best Caterers New Orleans Cuisine Interview with owner Marie Hasney

Executive chef: Kate Chadwick Community involvement: We support Bridge House. … If we have a lot of food left, we can get Opened: 2006 them to come pick it up. If it’s in pans, they’ll even clean the pans and bring them back to us. We do Price range: Varies, depending on the event all kinds of things all the time — anything we can do to bring back the city. That was why I started Cuisine: World table with a Louisiana twist. … the business in the first place. My chef has traveled the world and can cook all different kinds of food with the flavor of Major milestones: Finding the right people to Louisiana added. work. A lot of people don’t want to work as hard as it takes to do catering. We were fortunate and Noted for: Seafood-stuffed pasta shells, blessed enough to get the contract with Shell to Hoisin-glazed pork tenderloin (grilled and driz- do Jazz Fest for the catering of the hospitality tent zled with an Asian five-spice barbecue sauce), and the VIP area. Fleur de Lis is now in its third and my personal favorite, corn macque choux year of working with Jazz Fest. It was very diffi- — it’s fresh corn that you cut off the cob, cult (in 2006) to find all the supplies we needed there’s cream, and it’s so delicious. You can put to do the event, but we did it.• shrimp in it or have it plain. — Fritz Esker

Photo by Frank Aymami

Photo by Tracie Morris Schaefer

Best Food Art Caterers Interview with executive chef Nanci Easterling

Opened: 1990 Community involvement: I’m involved in the hospitality industry in a lot Price range: It widely varies from the most of ways. For example, I often conduct lectures basic inexpensive takeout tray to a larger event for students going into the hospitality industry. that costs more than $250 a head. I teach the virtues of getting into the industry.

Cuisine: We would normally say multi- Major milestones: regional because we don’t do one specific type I’d say the grand opening of Harrah’s Casino in of cuisine. We do Cajun Creole, Asian food, 1994 and serving food to 15,000 people was a Indian food — we are all over the map. major milestone for us. We had to deal with 150,000 hors d’oeuvres that were all made Noted for: We offer a seamless experience, from scratch. We have since stayed involved which means the person a client starts with is with Harrah’s, and now we do all of their cater- the same person they end with. One person is ing. We also did the catering for the Democratic with a client through the duration of their event. National Committee when it was last here.• I’d also say we are known for our presentation, quality and professionalism. — Robin Shannon

14 Culinary Connoisseurs Photo by Frank Aymami Martin Wine Best Caterers Cellar Interview with president Cedric Martin

Executive chefs: David Bockstruck and our structure, the menu depends greatly Mark Majorie on the chefs’ inspiration and creativity.

Opened: Our original store opened in Noted for: We have one of the largest 1946, which was the Baronne Street loca- selections of wines and spirits in the Gulf tion. We plan on reopening Baronne South. Also, our New York-style deli sand- Street in June 2010. The Metairie store wiches and great daily specials. opened in 1989, and we started the deli and catering in 1990. The Mandeville Community involvement: store opened in 2005 and the Magazine Martin Wine Cellar donates to many and Baton Rouge stores opened in 2006. organizations, mainly schools and local businesses, in southeastern Louisiana. Price range: The lunch menu ranges from $4.99 to $13.50. We also have our full Major milestones: catering menu available online and we offer After suffering major losses because of full catering services from delivery, bar- Hurricane Katrina, both to our facilities tenders, servers and rentals. We can cater and our stock, we quickly reopened the any event from eight to 800 guests. Metairie location in early October 2005 with a great deal of teamwork from our Cuisine: Our cuisine is quite eclectic; we loyal and dedicated staff and proceeded attempt to offer a wide variety throughout with expansion plans for the North Shore a month. We offer entrees from contem- and Baton Rouge.• Martin Wine Cellar catering porary regional American fare, European manager Gena Gilberti, left, classics and some Asian influences. Given — Craig Guillot and chef Mark Majorie sample potato salad at the Metairie store.

Best Patton’s Caterers Caterers

Interview with owner and executive chef Terry Patton

Opened: 1954 Community involvement: We do things for the Alzheimer’s Association. My mother Price range: Between $20 and $50 per passed away from that during Hurricane person. Katrina and suffered with it throughout the years. We also do work for the Fore!Kids Cuisine: French Creole or New Orleans style Foundation, Ducks Unlimited, Jazz on the Bayou, STARC (Services, Training, Noted for: It’s a family business, started Advocacy, Resources, Connection) and by my mother and father in 1954. My sister Second Harvest. We donate food to many Pat and my brother Tim do most of the community events and organizations. booking, I’m in the kitchen, Tommy (broth- er) is the facilitator and Gale (sister) is Major milestones: Getting the PGA more or less at the banking end. I’ve been tournament spot in New Orleans … now doing this 32 years. There are challenges, it’s the Zurich Classic. We’ve been doing but we all pull together and make it happen. that since the conception of the skybox, ... We have five family members who can and that was 20 years ago. I guess Jazz take care of every aspect of everything, and Fest would be another one. There have I think we do a very good job. The people been many, many, many in the 54 years who hire us don’t have to worry about any- we’ve been in business.• thing. They know we have it under control and can take care of all the details. — Katie Urbaszewski

Photo by Tracie Morris Schaefer New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 15 Photo by Frank Aymami Best Best John Besh Owners Executive Chefs Lüke, August, Besh Steak, La Provence

Professional training and to me to work with organizations and opportunity to showcase who we education: Culinary Institute of nonprofits that work to help bring are and what we are. America from 1989-92. back some of the cornerstones of New Orleans, like tangible things Favorite dish: In the spring it’s Previous experience: Before I such as rebuilding homes through going to be whatever you can possi- ventured out on my own, I was at the Habitat (for Humanity), or I helped bly do to a crawfish. Then that leads Windsor Court Hotel. I was also at the rebuild Willie Mae’s Scotch House. I us into shrimp and crab season, and Romantik Hotel Spielweg and the do Chef’s Charity for Children at St. then at this time of year … it’s the Black Forest in Germany and was at Michael’s Special School. We also garden season. In the fall, it’s an the Château de Montcaud in Provence, help places such as Café Reconcile, oyster dish. Once we start duck France, and at Artesia in Abita Springs. Mary Queen of Vietnam Community hunting, it becomes gumbo. In the Development Corp., a number of winter, it’s an old family heirloom Years at establishment: North Shore fundraisers and organi- recipe, like oyster or crawfish corn- In 2004, Octavio (Mantilla) and I zations, and the Green Charter School bread dressing. renamed our partnership the Besh Uptown. Students go to La Provence Restaurant Group. We previously to see a different life than that of the Inspiration to work in the culi- had a consulting group called Olivet, inner city. We work with food banks nary industry: I wanted to be a and we still have that but we don’t in St. Luke’s Parish in Slidell. chef because I like making people do much of the consulting anymore. happy and I love cooking for people. August was our first restaurant we Major milestones: Making a mar- At a young age, I looked up to all the opened in 2001. We opened Besh riage last 16 years while being a local chefs who were rock stars even Steakhouse in 2003, we took over poor, helpless cook is right up before The Food Network and I knew La Provence in January 2007 and there. Also the challenge of raising I wanted to be a chef. My father, Lüke was our last one in May 2007. four boys — Brendan, 12, Jack, 7, Ted, also encouraged me to pursue Luke, 5, and Andrew, 3 — with my my dream.• Community involvement: wife, Jenifer, has also been a mile- After Katrina, it was really important stone. Iron Chef was really an — Tommy Santora

Tommy Best Owners Cvitanovich Drago’s Seafood Restaurant

Years at establishment: Restaurant Association and am Favorite dish: I have a few I’ve been a part of this restaurant in a position to become a chair- favorites. I like the Shuckee for more than 30 years. My par- man of the Louisiana Restaurant Duckee, the Crabmeat ents opened Drago’s in 1969, and Association. I’m also a trustee Mediterranean Salad and, of I started out as a little boy peel- for the Louisiana Restaurant course, the oysters. Then, we ing shrimp in the kitchen. My Association’s $55 million Self have the Fleur de lis Shrimp, responsibilities began to increase Insured Fund for Worker’s which is also good. I like all of in the late 1980s, and in the mid- Compensation. My involvement them. That’s why they’re on the ’90s I launched an advertising in these organizations is great menu. campaign that saved the compa- for networking and learning. I ny as we contemplated closing. learn something new at every Inspiration to work in the Today, we have two of the top event, and the knowledge gained culinary industry: I really grossing businesses in the can be applied now or in the enjoy teaching and working with greater New Orleans area. future. the students. I, along with a col- league, mentor students on Grace Community involvement: Major milestones: My wife King’s culinary cooking team. It’s I recently ended a 12-year stint Leanne and I have four kids: inspiring to see the students learn with the Louisiana Seafood Maddie, Josh, Carson and Callie. and apply what they’ve learned.• Promotion Board. I’m past pres- I love being a dad, and I love ident of the New Orleans being married. — Nayita Wilson

Photo by Frank Aymami 16 Culinary Connoisseurs Photo by Frank Aymami The tastebuds Best Hans Limburg, Greg Reggio and Gary Darling Owners Zea's Rotisserie and Grill, and Semolina

Years at establishment: The sales just almost tripled from Darling: Hans and I have been col- what we were used to from our laborating since 1973. Greg came on first location. the scene in 1980, and the three of Darling: A lot of the success of the us came together to form Taste restaurant is the fact that Hans, Buds and started developing our Greg and I — for the past 30 concepts after that. some-odd years — have remained successful in business and as Community involvement: friends, and that friendship is an Limburg: We like to do a lot of important part of the company. It’s small fundraisers in and around like a successful marriage. where the restaurants are, (and) encourage the involvement of the Favorite dish: management team of the restau- Darling: I love the crispy duck. rants. These food festivals are good Limburg: My favorite dish at for everyone; it’s a two-way street. Semolina always was the pad Thai, We get to showcase our food and and my favorite dish at Zea's is we get to have some fun with it. probably the Thai ribs. You get to meet people, and they Reggio: Probably the Thai ribs with tell you what the like about your the roasted corn grits. That’s a great place. It’s a good way to meet your dish. I never get tired of it. guests on another level. cooking, and at some point in time, environment, I just love the creative was very adventurous. I would watch Inspiration to work in the I just thought I would do this pro- end of it, and I love the fact I can play Julia Child on PBS with her, (and) I Major milestones: culinary industry: fessionally. I had some lucky breaks with my food and not have my moth- can remember standing up on a chair Limburg: I think when we opened Limburg: It was just something I and was taken under the wing by er yell at me, and get paid to do it. stirring the red gravy. Food was such our restaurant at Clearview Mall, always enjoyed doing. I always did some chefs who were talented and Reggio: Food is just such an essen- a big part of family life.• we added a brewery, and I thought it part time in junior high and high took the time to teach me. tial part of family in New Orleans. My that was a big milestone for us. school. Eventually I always got jobs Darling: I just love it. I just love the mother was a phenomenal cook; she — Jason Saul

4HE/THER 2EASON4O6ISIT Thank you. .EW/RLEANS WhenweheardwewereselectedasBestOwnersinthe 2008CulinaryConnoisseurs,allwecouldthinkwasit wouldnÕthavehappenedwithoutourexceptionalstaff andwonderfulcustomers. WeÕreveryappreciative.Ever sincetheTasteBudscametogetherin1990throughour sharedpassionforfood,weÕvebeendevotedtocreating spectaculardiningforourcustomersandanenvironment forstafftoßourish.Again,thankstoeveryone.

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New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 17 Best Rene bajeux Executive Chefs La Provence

Professional training and Beverly Hills, Chicago and, obvi- Favorite dish: My favorite dish education: I apprenticed in ously, here. would be fresh sardines. Alsace-Lorraine, France, for three years starting in 1971 when I was Noted for: I change my menu Community involvement: 13 years old. almost every day, so anything with March of Dimes, Cancer Society, fish or wild game. That’s what peo- Kidney Foundation, AIDS Years at establishment: ple come here for is fish they can- Foundation … because if we don’t Bajeux spent one year at La not find anywhere else, sample help those people, nobody’s going Provence, and in July 2008 said fresh preparation with local prod- to help them. Chefs give a lot of he would be leaving the restaurant. uct, local vegetable, local fish. Also, free time on our days off. The I’m going to take some time we get a lot of wild product, like community comes in to eat and off, and think about what I want wild salmon, wild bass … we raise gives us a lot, so we have to give to do next and find my direction. our own pigs in the back, we have something back. … So, I’m going to take about a our own chickens, so anything we month, month and a half off, and can get from the farm is great. Inspiration to work in the then see what’s happening. I have culinary industry: I guess nothing lined up. Favorite ingredient: Pork. I because my mother loved to cook love pork. And tomatoes like crazy, at home. We didn’t have any Previous experience: After we have tomatoes coming up money, but she loved to cook, so the apprenticeship, I went to work everywhere. We have water I think that was it.• in the best restaurants in France, chanterelle, we have incredible figs Luxembourg, Canada, Maui, coming out left and right. I love it. — Laura Mattingly

Photo by Tracie Morris Schaefer

Best Executive Kim Kringlie Chefs The Dakota Restaurant

Professional training and came to a business plan — oper- Noted for: Being consistent but education: ating capital, who needs that? But also trying to evolve. We try to I started working at 15 in restau- we just felt that we made for a balance what the customer rants in North Dakota, which is good business combination, and expects from us with trying new where I am from. We had a family here it is 19 years later. It has and different ideas and dishes. friend in the business. I used to been an educational process go into his kitchen when the throughout. We also have Favorite ingredient: We do a restaurant was closed and watch Restaurant Cuvee together and veal dish, which is kind of a signa- him cut meat for hours. He had a are opening up another restaurant ture item. It is a version of the clas- wooden butcher’s block, and the this fall. sic veal Oscar with a little twist to it. sides of cattle were hanging on We also have a signature crabmeat meat hooks in his cooler. He Previous experience: brie soup that people really like. would break down half a cow and After high school I moved to I would stand on a milk crate and Jackson Hole, Wyo., to work for Favorite dish: I don’t have any grind the meat for him. my brother, who was an execu- one dish. It is really more a mat- tive chef at a hotel out there. And ter of coming up with new things Years at establishment: then I trained for an Austrian I know people will like. My business partner, Kenny chef who became a mentor. I LaCour, is from Covington and came to Louisiana in 1984 and Inspiration to work in the friends came to the two of us and went to Baton Rouge and opened culinary industry: Every day asked if we would be interested in up Juban’s Restaurant, where I you learn something new, and getting the restaurant going that was the executive chef, and from that really keeps me going.• we still have today. We broke there I went to Covington. every rule in the book when it — Garry Boulard

Photo by Shannon Diecidue

18 Culinary Connoisseurs

Culinary celebration

Nearly 300 people attended the 2008 Culinary Connoisseurs cocktail reception July 31 at the New Orleans Museum of Art. Medallions were presented to the 50 honorees upon arriving, and Publisher Mark Singletary recognized each honoree later in the evening. These and other photos can be seen on the CityBusiness photo gallery at www.neworleanscitybusiness.com. Photos by Frank Aymami

Honorees Tommy Cvitanovich, left, Drago’s Seafood Restaurant owner, and John Besh, owner of August, Besh Steak, La Provence and Lüke.

K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen executive chef Paul Miller, left, and Legend honoree Paul Prudhomme.

From left: Honorees Tim, Pat and Terry Patton of Patton’s Catering. Honorees Sergio Lopez, left, Tommy’s Cuisine maitre d’, and Michael Juan, Le Parvenu sommelier.

20 Culinary Connoisseurs From left: Honorees Jerry Amato, Mother’s Restaurant owner; Gary Darling, co-owner of Zea and Semolina; Chef Duke LoCicero, Café Giovanni executive chef; and Greg Reggio, co-owner of Zea and Semolina.

Honorees Larry Herbert, left, and Chris Newton, Honoree Bill Briand, Cochon sous chef, and fiancée Honoree Marie Hasney, of Fleur de lis New Orleans Brigtsen’s sous chef and pastry chef, respectively. Alexis Wingate. Cuisine and grandson Ryne D’Arensbourg.

New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 21 Honoree Ross Eirich, Nathan's Restaurant executive chef, and wife, Gena.

From left: Honorees Kenny LaCour, The Dakota Restaurant owner, Chris Ycaza, Galatoire’s sommelier, and Kim Kringlie, The Dakota Restaurant owner and executive chef.

Honorees Rick Blount, left, Honorees Beth Biundo, left, Lilette pastry and Michael Regua, Antoine’s chef, and Slade Rushing, MiLa chef. owner and executive chef, respectively.

Nearly 300 people celebrate during the inaugural Culinary Connoisseurs cocktail reception at the New Orleans Museum of Art July 31.

22 Culinary Connoisseurs Joy and Boysie Bollinger.

Honorees Tommy Andrade, left, Tommy's Cuisine owner, and Sergio Lopez, Tommy’s maitre d’.

From left: Klara, Tommy and Leanne Cvitanovich of Drago’s Seafood Restaurant

Emeril’s Delmonico general manager Saleem Nawaz, left, Kim Radetich and Mark Peters and honoree Chris Ycaza, Galatoire’s sommelier.

New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 23 Best Brian Executive Chefs landry Galatoire’s Restaurant and Galatoire’s Bistro

Professional training and Wagner of Charleston Grill and piece of fish, with meuniere sauce and education: I have a biology/phi- learned volumes from him. When I toasted pecans is hard to beat. losophy degree from the University moved back, I worked for Rene of Alabama, but when I took the Bajeux at Rene Bistro and La Cote Community involvement: MCAT and went to my medical Brasserie as a sous chef. Then I The Galatoire family does so many school interview, I decided that was- went to work at Ralph’s on the Park. things I am involved with, including n’t what I wanted to do. ... I earned My first job was as a busboy at the auctioning of tables (for charity) an associate’s degree in culinary arts Tony Angelo’s. the Fridays before Mardi Gras and from Johnson and Wales University Christmas. We’ve raised over in Charleston, S.C., but mostly I Noted for: I just won a Louisiana $250,000 with the past five auc- learned on the job. seafood cooking competition, which tions. I also participate in career day means I get to represent Louisiana at my alma mater, Jesuit High Years at establishment: in the Great American Seafood School, and a mentor program I was a sous chef at Ralph’s on the Cookoff. … I made sautéed cobia (a where juniors and seniors can Park before Hurricane Katrina. … lemon fish) with Louisiana blue crab spend a week with alumni in a par- Ralph’s had some down time when butter. ticular career. they didn’t know what they were going to do. In the meantime, Galatoire’s Favorite ingredient: Louisiana Inspiration to work in the culi- opened a location in Baton Rouge. I shrimp. … There are so many things nary industry: Maybe I stumbled became executive chef in Baton Rouge you can do with fresh shrimp. You upon it, but once it gets in your at the Bistro in December 2005. When can use them in classic dishes like we blood, it’s an extremely rewarding the executive chef of Galatoire’s New do at Galatoire’s — remoulade or business to be in. We are in the busi- Orleans resigned, I was asked to be Creole — but also in so many ness of creating other people’s mem- executive chef of both. cuisines. ories and making their events special, and I find that very rewarding.• Previous experience: While I Favorite dish: To eat? Trout pecan. was in Charleston, I worked for Bob I like that it is so simple — a quick — Angelle Bergeron Photo by Frank Aymami

Best Donald Executive Chefs link Herbsaint and Cochon chef and owner

Professional training and Bayona in the early ’90s as a board with Edible Schoolyard. I’ve education: sous chef. gone over there and cooked with I went to the California Culinary the children. We also recently did Academy and studied business Noted for: The fact we all work a dinner with Café Reconcile. for four years at Louisiana State together as a team, make a very University. good product and I take care of Inspiration to work in the my people and my staff. culinary industry: It’s the peo- Years at establishment: I’ve ple I work with. When I started been the original owner (of Favorite ingredient: Salt. cooking, it just seemed like where Herbsaint) for about eight years Everything needs it and it can I belonged and a good fit. There’s now and we opened Cochon in make or break a dish. always a lot of energy in the back the spring of 2006. and the front of a restaurant. The Favorite dish: Gumbo and dining room, the liveliness of it. Previous experience: I duck confit. It’s a gathering place for people, a worked in California and for big social event, and we get to be about eight years at places like Community involvement: a part of that all the time.• Jardiniere and Flying Saucer then We do a lot of the SOS Night Out worked here in New Orleans at Sheriff’s events, and I’m on the — Craig Guillot

Photo by Frank Aymami

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985-898-5400 1-800-240-3271 www.parishnational.com Best Executive Duke LoCicero Chefs Café Giovanni

Professional training and ner, then you move into the dining that part of the street was the worst education: I went to the Culinary room where you get live music and spot in New Orleans — you used to Institute of America and graduated other entertainment. have to run down that street before I in 1980. moved there in 1991. I also do a lot Favorite ingredient: That’s hard to with my Chef Duke Foundation for Years at establishment: say. Something I use quite a bit is Kids, which I started about 17 years I’m going on 18 years at Café Louisiana seafood. Being in New ago with my wife Kelly. We help kids Giovanni. Orleans, I love to use local ingredients. with medical problems and bring toys to kids at Children’s Hospital and Previous experience: I worked at Favorite dish: The Chef Duke tast- Tulane Hospital. Last year, we gave a place called the Brownstone, and ing menu. I get to create and try dif- away toys to 200 kids. I opened Tony Valone’s The Grotto ferent things for different people. It in Houston. I also worked at Victory gives a person a wide scope of the Inspiration to work in the culi- Country Club in Victory, Texas. I cuisine. I’m also partial to the Oysters nary industry: I just love the busi- also worked at a place called the Giovanni, which is fried oysters on a ness. I started when I was 12 and Sea Catch in New Jersey. It was the stained glass plate of sauces. It is the never got out of it. Many years ago I first Cajun-style restaurant along second-best oyster dish in town. worked at House of Lee and worked the beach up there. with David Lee. He was always nice to Community involvement: I was everyone. He was the one who Noted for: I think the restaurant is the first guy to come in and reinvent encouraged me to go into the industry. noted for being a complete dining the upper Decatur Street area and You’ve got to cook from your heart.• experience. We have a great lounge helped found the Upper Decatur Street where you can get a drink before din- Foundation. There was a time when — Robin Shannon

Photo by Frank Aymami

Best Executive Spencer Minch Chefs Emeril’s Delmonico

Professional training: I Favorite ingredient: body’s house for the Greater went to culinary school at Anything pork. New Orleans Youth Orchestra. Johnson and Wales in With Katrina, it was a difficult Charleston, S.C. Favorite dish: Here at the decision for a lot of people to restaurant, my favorite dish come back, and I’m just trying Years at establishment: right now is the lamb. It’s a to keep that kind of stuff local Seven Moroccan spice lamb with for the people in the city. A few Merquez sausage, with mint and chefs and I, we’re working real- Previous experience: ratatouille, made with minced- ly hard to get farmers to come Before here, I worked at Mr. B’s up dates to give a little sweet- to the city with local produce; Bistro, had a short stint at ness and served with a crispy we go to the farmer’s markets. Crescent City Brewhouse and socca chip, which is like a thin got started at the Hyatt chickpea crepe or pancake. Inspiration to work in the Regency Superdome. culinary industry: Community involvement: I can’t sit behind a desk, I’m not Noted for: I’m a big propo- I’ve personally done benefit necessarily a social butterfly, so nent of the “by-hand” philoso- dinners for things like the the kitchen offers me the free- phy. I just really enjoy respect- Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer dom to be who I am. The culture ing the ingredients and respect- Foundation. Delmonico’s every of being a chef — the stress, the ing the traditions and the cul- year participates in the gala at late nights, a lot of wine, a lot of tures and not trying to reinvent Canal Place for cancer, and we good food — ultimately, I think it. We do alter things a little bit, do a lot of stuff for Café it’s very satisfying.• but I can’t say I invented any- Reconcile. My favorite thing to thing. do every year is go to some- — Leah Bartos

Photo by Frank Aymami

26 Culinary Connoisseurs Best Executive Darin Nesbit Chefs Bourbon House and Palace Café

Professional training and because it’s a very versatile meat usually his days off) packing my education: I have more than 16 and it’s delicious. I also love own truck with fresh, Louisiana- years of experience in a fine dining shoots of any kind, like pea shoots grown produce. kitchen with a degree in culinary and corn shoots, sprouts and edi- arts from Kendall College in ble blossoms. I like okra blossoms, Noted for: Teaching new culinari- Chicago. I completed an extern- yellow squash blossoms, eggplant ans. Always evolving the menu ship at Commander’s Palace while flowers, just not tobacco flowers requires a kitchen staff committed in college and ended up falling in (word to the wise, don’t bother try- to growth. I operate on a horizon- love with New Orleans. Once I ing a tobacco flower). tal hierarchy. Each member of the graduated, I had to come back. team is actively involved in the Favorite dish: Crawfish boudin menu development. Questions are Years at establishment: and Zapp’s Potato Chips. encouraged, as well as learning One year at Bourbon House, but I from trial by error. I act as a men- have been with Dickie Brennan for Community involvement: tor by giving the team the free- more than 15 years — four years I have taken to the Louisiana farm- dom to learn through self-expres- at Commander’s Palace and 11 ers’ cause very strongly and per- sion and experimentation. I also years at Palace Café. sonally, so much so I initiated push them to learn from each contact and established a relation- other. Previous experience: ship with several small-time farm- I was sous chef at Commander’s ers in the Paulina and Grand Point Inspiration to work in the culi- Palace and Palace Café, executive areas. It has been difficult because nary industry: My father-in-law, chef of Palace Café and am now Cajun farmers don’t have all that a Wisconsin farmer, butcher and executive chef of Bourbon House much trust in “big city” business- canner who possessed the ability and Palace Café. men. Over the past six weeks I to grow and produce great food.• have been to Paulina three to four Favorite ingredient: Pork, times a week (two of these are — Robin Shannon

Photo by Frank Aymami

Photo by Frank Aymami

Best Executive Mike Regua Chefs Antoine’s

Professional training and your garlic. Seasonings mean tions at festivals, things like that. education: I’ve never had culi- everything in food. Whatever food nary training, but I worked at dif- you’re using, you still have to have Noted for: I do a French Creole ferent hotels and a couple restau- all those seasonings to bring style because that’s what I was rants at night (while still at everything together. trained in. I am venturing off of that Antoine’s). Going to school teaches a little bit, but I still always go back you the basics, but going restau- Favorite dish: I love sauces. The to the French Creole style of cook- rant to restaurant, you get to learn Marchand de vin sauce we make, ing. I was raised in the city, so a lot the people. On-the-job experience to me, is top-notch. Another one I of things I do are city-oriented. is where it’s at. like they call the truit au vin blanc. It’s a base sauce made with Inspiration to work in the Years at establishment: 36 shrimp, crabmeat and oysters, culinary industry: What makes and the fish itself is poached soft. it great is to see people happy. I Previous experience: I worked And I love gumbo. I love bisque. talk (with people) just to get the at the Monteleone, Royal Sonesta feel of people’s experience and and four different Holiday Inns. I Community involvement: enjoyment; that’s a huge inspira- was taught the hard way what peo- We did the Make a Wish, we do the tion. When I meet people and I ple enjoy coming out of the kitchen. French Quarter Festival and the can actually see it in their faces, Seafood Festival. We do a lot of that’s big for me.• Favorite ingredient: You gotta charities; we go places and we give have your basics: your onions, a lot of tastings. I do demonstra- — Leah Bartos

New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 27 Photo by Frank Aymami Best Susan Spicer Executive Chefs Bayona

Professional training and edu- helping her. I found it much more makes me happy, it’s ice cream. I cation: I began my cooking career rewarding than any of the other jobs tend to really like coffee Häagen- in 1979 as an apprentice to Chef I had. ... You can go anywhere and Dazs ice cream, although we make Daniel Bonnot at the Louis XVI talk to people about food, learn really great ice cream here at the Restaurant. After a four-month about food and find inspiration. restaurant. “stage” with Chef Roland Durand at the Hotel Sofitel in Paris in 1982, I Noted for: I’m probably noted for Community involvement: We returned to New Orleans to open consistency and attention to detail. try to do a little bit of everything. I Savoir Faire in the St. Charles Hotel That’s what I’ve tried to teach a lot live here. New Orleans is my home, as chef de cuisine. In 1985, I traveled of the people who have worked for and I feel like community involve- throughout California and Europe, me. … Anything I do, I would like to ment is part of being a citizen. … I returning to work in the kitchen at the feel I do well. I just don’t have that am involved in worldwide hunger Meridien Hotel’s Henri. In 1986, I left many other talents. relief, cultural interests and lots of to open the Bistro at Maison deVille stuff to benefit the local food bank. in the Hotel Maison deVille. Favorite ingredient: Lemon. It adds so much, packs a punch and Inspiration to work in the Years at establishment: you can use it a lot of different ways. culinary industry: My friend I opened Bayona with Regina Keever Citrus, in general, is really great, but Pamela Calhoun. She’s the one who in the spring of 1990. if I had to pick one, it’s the lemon. … got me involved. My mom was A little squeeze of lemon is such a always a great cook, but Pamela Previous experience: I was a bright note. was the first one who kind of typesetter, cocktail waitress and vari- explained a lot of the process to ous other things I didn’t really enjoy. Favorite dish: That changes on me, gave it definition so my under- A girlfriend of mine, Pamela Calhoun, any given day. My favorite thing to standing took shape. • got a chef’s position at a lunch eat overall is probably ice cream. If I restaurant downtown and I started had to pick one thing that really — Angelle Bergeron

Photo by Frank Aymami

Best William SousChefs Briand Cochon Restaurant

Professional training and being such a big restaurant. I make things fun and interesting education: was the butcher there, a sauci- in the restaurant. I really have no culinary educa- er there and worked about tion. I went to Southeastern every station in the whole Community involvement: Louisiana University for indus- restaurant. I learned a lot about We stay involved with the trial drafting and design and cooking. farmer’s market and have done a came back here and started bunch of cooking out there for working at Emeril’s. My special- Favorite ingredient: Bacon. them. Anything to keep local ty is butchering; that’s what I I put it in everything, no ques- farmers going. We try to buy do. I cut up pigs — whole ani- tions about it. everything locally and that is part mals … I cure bacon. of our involvement in this city. Favorite dish: I like Cajun Years at establishment: food and sausages like boudin Inspiration to work in the I’ve been here since we opened and andouille. That’s what we culinary industry: I kind of about two and a half years ago do and that’s why I like working got into it as an accident but right after the hurricane. here at Cochon. once I did, I enjoyed the com- petition. The sky is the limit Previous experience: I Noted for: People would say and when you want to take it worked at Emeril’s for about six I’m probably noted for my there, you have to do it. You years. Then I worked at motivational skills. I try to have to come in every day and Herbsaint for about three years, make it fun. When we’re work- try to make things better.• then here since it opened. I ing hard, I try to make every- learned a lot at Emeril’s with it body laugh. I always try to — Craig Guillot

28 Culinary Connoisseurs Best Larry Herbert SousChefs Brigtsen’s Restaurant

Professional training and education: I were willing to take the time out to show me didn’t go to culinary school. I actually went to how things are done at both restaurants. So school to be a mechanic. But after I got out of my training, or education, has been entirely school, my older brother was working at on the job at just these two restaurants. Arnaud’s as a waiter, and he got me on as a food runner. I ended up staying at Arnaud’s Favorite ingredient: I like using shrimp for about five years and worked at every sta- and crabmeat as much as I can. tion in the restaurant, with the exception of being sous chef. When I finally decided to Favorite dish: The crab sautee. leave Arnaud’s, Kevin Davis, who was the chef there at that time, asked me why I was going. Noted for: I don’t think any one thing that And I told him I thought I had learned every- comes to mind, except that anyone who thing I possible could have at Arnaud’s, and knows me knows it is very important for me he said, “That is exactly what I wanted to hear that you enjoy the food I create. you say.” He actually called Frank Brigtsen and helped me find work at Brigtsen’s. Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: We have a lot of people at Years at establishment: Brigtsen’s who come back into the kitchen I have been at Brigtsen’s for 14 years now, and tell you how much they enjoy what you with eight of those years as a sous chef. made for them. When you can see in a cus- tomer’s face that they really loved the meal Previous experience: — that really means a lot to me.• I’ve been lucky in that I have worked with good people who had a lot of patience and — Garry Boulard

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Best SousChefs Michael Nelson GW Fins

Professional training and chef in two Seattle restaurants — Community involvement: education: I’ve been a chef for 14 the Garage and the Four Seasons. My wife Carol and I have this proj- years. I attended the Culinary ect where we replace nets on bas- Institute of America in Napa Valley, Favorite ingredient: The leaves ketball hoops throughout the Irish Calif., and the French Pastry School from the Kafir lime tree are fun to Channel and parts of Uptown. in Chicago. I really think most of work with. They are incredibly what I’ve learned comes from the vibrant and fresh during this time of Noted for: I’m known for keeping chefs I’ve worked with in the past. year and can definitely liven up and my cool in very high-pressure situ- lighten up a dish. ations. I believe I have a very low Years at establishment: turnover rate for that reason. I’m I’ve been with GW for almost three Favorite dish: Our menu also very service-oriented and qual- years. I started about two months changes daily, but my favorite dish ity-oriented. before Hurricane Katrina, and we right now is the grilled pompano. were one of the first fine dining The ingredients used in the prepa- Inspiration to work in the restaurants to reopen after the storm. ration of this dish create the per- culinary industry: I have a love fect balance of sweet and savory. I for food and enjoy working with it Previous experience: actually added it to our menu after enough to put myself to do this on a I’ve worked as a chef in two Chicago tasting different types of foods daily basis.• restaurants — Deleece and Nola’s while on a recent trip to the 32nd Ward. I’ve also worked as a Dominican Republic. — Nayita Wilson

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New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 29 Best Michael Juan Sommeliers Le Parvenu

Professional training and hopefully. Not all wines are the New Orleans and I am an active education: I’ve been in the busi- same, and each year is different member of St. Philip Church. ness since I was knee-high to a from the next. Wine was made to totem pole. I grew up in St. share with friends and should be Inspiration to work in the Bernard, around all of those profes- chosen by what will enhance the culinary industry: Well, aside sional waiters and servers. I come flavor of the food being eaten. That from being around the business for from a long line of family members is the job of a sommelier to match so long, I think a lot of my inspira- working in the industry. drink to food. tion comes from my Aunt Marie. She was all of 5 feet tall and 98 Years at establishment: I’ve Most expensive bottle pounds of sheer hell. She worked been out here for six and a half opened: I don’t pay attention to at the Plantation Room while I was years. that. A good bottle of wine is more a busboy at the Fairmont Hotel. She worthy of the price on the label. had her own area of that place and Previous experience: I was a Wine is judged as a craft, and the people would come in just to sit in busboy at the Sazerac Room back maker of the wine is an artist. that area. These people were lead- in the ’60s. I’ve worked at Arnaud’s ers of the community and she and Louis XIV. I also helped with Community involvement: I’m would abuse them so bad. I’d staff training at the Hyatt Hotel. up for the Lions Club of Kenner, I’m always tell her she can’t talk to peo- a member of the Rivertown ple like that, and she’d say, “Shut Favorite wine: I used to say I Business Association, I volunteer up, they love every minute of it.”• don’t have a favorite, but actually, with Special Olympics, I do work it’s the very next bottle I open — with the NFL Players Association in — Robin Shannon

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Galatoire’s sommelier and general manager Chris Ycaza lets customer David Payne sample a Best Chris Ycaza wine during lunch. Sommeliers Galatoire’s Restaurant

Professional training and we have well over 400 selections on ner and brought something from education: I took the basic course the list, and it pretty much spans the their own collection that would cer- for quartermaster sommelier several globe. tainly top the $3,000 price point at years ago, but it’s really been on- an auction. Someone came in and the-job training more than anything. Previous experience: asked how many bottles I had of the I became seriously interested in wine After Emeril’s, I went to Bizou, 2004 Domaine Des Comtes Lafon in 1994 when I worked at Emeril’s owned by Daniel Bonnot. I helped Montrachet, and I only had one bot- tending bar. I started with an art get the Red Room off the ground in tle. That was $1,625. scholarship at Savannah College of 1998, ran a French restaurant, 201, Art Design in 1985 and switched to which is now defunct, and spent six Community involvement: English at Louisiana State University. and a half years at Cuvee I’m involved with New Orleans Wine I thought I would end up writing or Restaurant. and Food Experience and Galatoire’s painting, but wine offers that same annual charitable auctions held the sort of creativity through under- Favorite wine: I have so many. I Friday before Mardi Gras and standing nuances of pairing food don’t think there is enough room in Christmas. I’m also trying to estab- and structuring a list or program. this article to write all the ties for lish a relationship between the first place. When it comes to reds, it restaurant and the Drew Brees Years at establishment: will be Burgundy, probably a Foundation. I was recruited as general manager Chambertin Clos de Beze from in August 2006. ... An improved, Armand Rousseau. For whites, it will Inspiration to work in the expanded wine list increases prof- probably be a great, older Riesling. culinary industry: It was a natu- itability and makes Galatoire’s a Clos Ste. Hune comes to mind. ral progression of what a lot of kids more desirable place to go. The old do in college to supplement the stu- menu had a very small wine list, not Most expensive bottle opened: dent loans — work in restaurants.• even 100 wines, and sometimes they There have been bottles I’ve opened weren’t even vintage specified. Now for collectors who have come to din- — Angelle Bergeron Photo by Frank Aymami

30 Culinary Connoisseurs Best PastryChefs Beth Biundo Lilette

Professional training and Favorite dessert: People always it every year in a different city, and education: I went to the French ask me that, and I never have a since it’s in New Orleans this year Culinary Institute (in New York), in good answer for it. I like fruit it’s kind of focusing on New the pastry program. I lived there desserts. I almost never eat choco- Orleans issues a little bit. for six years. late. I’m not a big fan of it. I like anything with blueberries, or really Inspiration to work in the Years at establishment: I’ve good fruit. Right now it’s blueber- culinary industry: It’s been worked here for four years. ries — I have a million of them, so something I’ve always enjoyed. Since it’s all I’m thinking of. And I like ice I was a little kid I’ve always baked Previous experience: In town I cream. It’s one of my favorite and kind of just had never looked at worked at Cuvée and Delmonico. things to make. It’s really easy it as a profession. I was cooking once you get the hang of it. while I was in grad school for art his- Favorite ingredient: Just one? tory, doing gallery work and museum I like using all the different season- Community involvement: work and that kind of thing and was- al fruits; I like fruit desserts more I’m involved in the Women Chefs n’t loving grad school. I was in New than chocolate. Also, I like putting and Restaurateurs Convention York at the time, and there is such a salt in desserts because it really that’s coming up. I’m on the com- huge restaurant scene, so it seemed brings the flavors out. I try to go mittee for that. I am doing the pas- like a good thing to do.• to the farmer’s market when I can try presentation there with two (for local fruit). other pastry chefs in town. They do — Jason Saul

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Best PastryChefs Tariq Hanna Sucré

Professional training and edu- including some for the Food Channel. wich, we are going to make the cation: I went to culinary school in bread. Farmington Hills, Mich., at the Noted for: I would have to say it’s Culinary Studies Institute and I have our French macaroons. Another Favorite dessert: At Sucré, it’s a degree in culinary art and restau- would be the Tiffany, which is our the éclair. Bar none, it is the best rant management best selling desert. It’s a chocolate damn éclair you will ever have. My moose with a raspberry interior. personal favorite dish is Chicken Years at establishment: And, there’s always the box of Tikka Massala. I’m British and that’s I moved to New Orleans and started chocolates. an Indian dish that I like. here in August 2006. Community involvement: Inspiration to work in the culi- Previous experience: I worked We do a fair amount of things. One nary industry: I think it’s not what I my way through the industry. I start- of the things I would like is to get do, it’s just who I am. Originally, it was ed out as a hot food cook at a few involved with is to work with the less just easier than going to engineering country clubs, and I even worked at fortunate and go directly to them. college to be an architect, but it took Dunkin Donuts for six months. In me only about three weeks in culinary 1993, I opened my own pastry shop Favorite ingredient: Actually, you school to figure out this is what I and company in Northville, Mich., and always have to start everything with wanted to do. It’s a great creative out- in 1999, I was offered the position for a good staff. And, every single thing let and I enjoy making people happy.• the first casino pastry chef in Detroit. we do, we do from scratch on prem- I also did a bunch of competitions ises. If we’re going to make a sand- — Craig Guillot

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New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 31 Best PastryChefs Chris Newton Brigtsen’s Restaurant

Professional training and time. I memorized all of the Community involvement: education: All of my education recipes for whatever I will be I’ve done baking for Save our and training has taken place at baking, so I am not wasting time Schools, but someday in the this one restaurant. I actually by looking things up in a book. future I would really like to teach started off as a dishwasher. I Everything I bake is in my head. a class in one of the public was just out of high school and schools, nothing big, maybe 10 just about to make 17 years old. Favorite ingredient: I love people or so, just to show them Now I am 40 years old. So I doing the crust that goes with the basics of baking. think I am a rare commodity: the pecan pie. A pie crust someone in my age bracket who requires finesse to get the per- Inspiration to work in the has had one job for this long. fect texture; you really have to culinary industry: When they work at it. serve my desserts at night and Years at establishment: I’ve customers leave letters for me been here for 22 years. Favorite desert: The choco- — people from all over the late cake is probably the most world, telling me the cake was Previous experience: popular. We have a chocolate the best cake they ever had or I went through all of the steps to sauce that goes with it. But my the pie was the best. That makes become a baker, which in my own favorite is the pecan pie. I me feel great. My main thing is case included being a dishwash- love to bake it. Everyone thinks seeing people getting their er and prep cook and working you just throw the pecans in, money’s worth and being the salad station. … I am the but some you put in the grinder happy.• only baker here and am always and also roast them. Roasting doing two or three things at one brings out their perfect flavor. — Garry Boulard

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32 Culinary Connoisseurs Best Robin Maitre D’s Bordelon

Commander’s Palace

Years at establishment: entertain her clients and (conduct) kins and all that. I’m also a part of a I started in 2001 when I was newly guest management stuff at the group called the Camel Toe Lady graduated from Louisiana State home. So I kind of ran her kitchen Steppers, a Mardi Gras group. University. I stayed here for about for a long time, and through that two years and then moved away to I’ve had catering experiences, but it Most notable guests: There’s Colorado for four. Then when I was always kind of under the table, nothing better than when you see moved back, the Brennans heard I to use another restaurant term. Allen Toussaint’s Rolls Royce drive was in town and they asked me to be up, and he has this aqua blue Rolls the maitre d’, so I accepted. So I’ve Community involvement: Royce convertible. When I see that been back for about a year and a half. Through the restaurant I was able to coming down the street, there’s just be part of Girls First, which is a pro- nothing better than knowing Mr. Previous experience: Growing gram set up with Helen Siegel to pro- Toussaint’s going to be eating in my up in Bayou Lafourche, we didn’t vide girls with activities throughout restaurant. have a lot of restaurants in that part the year. … I was able to do what we of town. It’s a very small town, a lot call their etiquette class, and that was Inspiration to work in the of sugarcane farming, fishing indus- a lot of fun. A hundred little girls culinary industry: I just like try … so we did a lot of entertaining came and ate at the restaurant, and entertaining. I think it goes along out of homes. My mother enter- we taught them how to properly use with being a bayou lady.• tained a lot, so I helped her. She Commander’s Palace silver, which works for a shipyard, so she would silver is theirs and candles, and nap- — Laura Mattingly

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Best Vedran Maitre D’s Komazec Morton’s — The Steakhouse

Years at establishment: Croatia. That was when I was us; Reggie Bush, Marques I have been with Morton’s younger, just holding summer Colston, every year, every season Steakhouse for 10 years, four in jobs. I told my mom I would be a they came in. That’s how we start- New Orleans. The first time I came chef one day; I never got to be a ed working with Catch 22. All of to the city was when (Hurricane) chef, but I love working in the that developed from just meeting Ivan was bearing down. We were front of the house so much. at the restaurant and asking “What landing, and the pilot said you are you doing in the city? How can could look out the window and see Community involvement: we help?” the evacuation of the city happen- We work with Deuce McAllister’s ing right now. Catch 22 organization, the Dryades Inspiration to work in the YMCA school supply drive, the culinary industry: I wanted to Previous experience: I started New Orleans Jazz Orchestra. We be a chef when I was a kid, but I with Morton’s in Houston, and I did the Toys for Tots with the enjoyed the front of the house so worked in San Francisco for four Marines. One of my goals was to much. The passion for me is mak- years. But the reason I picked New get more involved when I came ing people happy. For me when I Orleans is because I like the here. Morton’s wasn’t really work at night, it’s like I’m throwing South. It’s very nice, and the peo- involved in the community. a dinner party at my house. I know ple are very nice and generous. ... guests by name, talk to them — Before working for Morton’s, I Most notable guests: You get it’s like an extended family.• worked for a restaurant in Houston a lot of Saints players that come and in a hotel back home in through. Deuce is a regular with — Jason Saul

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New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 33 Best Maitre D’s Sergio Lopez Tommy’s Cuisine

Years at establishment: Church. I help with the Catholic I have worked in the business for 15 Youth Organization. years, five at Tommy’s Cuisine and 10 at Irene’s Cuisine, Tommy Most notable guests: Andrade’s former restaurant. First of all, everybody is a VIP. We’ve had Mayor C. Ray Nagin, city council Previous experience: members, other politicians and Saints I’ve been in the business all of my football players. life. I’m from Mexico City, Mexico. I traveled around this country when I Inspiration to work in the culi- was younger working in restaurants. nary industry: I used to be the assistant maitre d’ at My father was in the business. He The Fairmont New Orleans Sazerac was so nice with people. He told me Restaurant and Bar. to always be polite with people and to respect customers. He said to just Community involvement: smile.• I am very involved with my church, St. Anthony of Padua Catholic — Amy Ferrara Smith

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34 Culinary Connoisseurs Photo by Frank Aymami Paul Legends Prudhomme

K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen

Years at establishment: We ply allowed me to share what I Back then you could open a opened up in July 1979. We strug- know and understand to be good restaurant for about $4,500, buy gled at first, but finally made it. food. all of the equipment second-hand When we first opened the and start cooking. I was just a Community involvement: restaurant, people kept asking hard-headed young guy trying to I think you have to help wherever what we put in the food, so we do what he believes in. It was a it is needed. You see what is hap- gave them little foils of the season- learning experience. The next three pening and go over there and try ing we were using. Then people restaurants in a row failed. After to do something. I don’t pick one wanted to buy the ingredients, so the fourth one, we became suc- thing to do and stay with it we put them first in Ziploc bags cessful. because there are so many things and then jars. Now we have nearly I have always considered to do. 40 retail outlets and thousands of myself to be a cook, even though I formulas available for what we’ve am also an owner and a chef. And Major milestones: There have done over the years that people I think cooks have the best job in been a lot of milestones. You have can use. the world. They can do things for to appreciate anything that people the human body that no other pro- award you with or that they say Inspiration to work in the fessional or scientist or doctor positively about you. I know some culinary industry: I got into the can. What we do is build human people might regard the books business in 1956 before my 16th body cells when they eat our that I’ve put out and the TV show birthday. I opened a restaurant in food.• we’ve done as major milestones, my hometown, and it didn’t last but to me those things have sim- very long, but I had a good time. — Garry Boulard

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Legends Leah chase Dooky Chase Restaurant

Years at establishment: breasts and veal pannee never respected me. You climb on shoul- I came in 1946, when I got married changed since 1957. People never ders to get ahead, but you don’t to Dooky Chase II. The children wanted me to change it. mash them. … Sometimes I get started coming one after the other, frustrated and angry that we are so I didn’t come in here every day. Community involvement: moving so slow, but we have good I would come in the evening, and I like the arts. Somewhere in the people in New Orleans. I don’t care when they were all in school, I Bible, Jesus said the poor you will what they say about racism in the would stay longer. I thought I always have with you. People will South, we do come together when would be a waitress because I always have food and clothing, but we need to help one another. worked as a waitress in the French the arts give them something to Quarter in the early ’40s, when look up to. … It’s inspirational. Inspiration to work in the they first started hiring female Promoting the arts is so necessary, culinary industry: I guess it was waitresses. especially for kids today. You need the people. You learn something I started with Bessie Saueber, to soften them up a bit and let them from them and to appreciate things. who opened the Coffee Pot in 1943. appreciate the pretty things in life. If you feed people good, you can I was always in the kitchen, and the always make them happy. A whole chef was always running me out. Major milestones: You make a lot of people came to my table and When I came here, I started off in difference just when you lift up they all left a little something you the kitchen. All the kitchen knew somebody else. I never try to walk can remember. I served the presi- was fried oysters, chicken and fish. over other people. There’s hardly dent grits and quail with plum jelly In the early ’50s, I started cooking anyone living here now, but before the last time he was in town. It lunch everyday. In 1957, I started Katrina, this was a neighborhood meant so much to me for the presi- putting dinners on with soup, with everybody — some drug dent to say, “Leah, I love this grits salad, entrée and dessert. addicts and a little bit of everything. and quail.”• That menu of stuffed shrimp, But I treated them like human seafood platters, stuffed chicken beings, like people, and they — Angelle Bergeron

New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 35 Photo by Jason Brown

lifetime Shirley Achievement Anthony

cook, Don’s Seafood and Steak House in Baton Rouge

Years at establishment: sibilities with another crewmember. I’ve worked at Don’s for 47 years. I I help prepare some of the sauces, started when I was 20 years old, chicken and seafood gumbos, and I’ve never looked back. bread pudding and stuffings.

Community involvement: I like Major milestones: I’m a breast to cook for my relatives when they cancer survivor. So many others are sick, and then I deliver the pre- have battled with the disease, but pared meals to their homes. I’m my support group helps me to not also a member of New Gideon worry. It makes me feel good to Baptist Church in Baton Rouge and know I’m still surviving. am involved with Sisters Supporting Sisters, a support Inspiration to work in the group for breast cancer survivors. culinary industry: I just like cooking. I like the restaurant work. Contribution to restaurant: I’m proud to work with the man- I’m a good cook, and I arrive at agement department at Don’s, and I work on time. I mostly work in the like the people I work for.• back kitchen right now, but I also share some of the cooking respon- — Nayita Wilson

Photo courtesy Louisiana Restaurant Association Marie lifetime Achievement laborde

Lea’s Lunchroom in Lecompte — Interview with Lea’s owner Ann Johnson

Years at establishment: 57. room. She had broken her right arm Marie Laborde began working at and her right leg. She’s really a Lea’s in 1951 — the year the restau- behind-the-scenes person and kind rant opened. She is the only employ- of stays to herself. We don’t open ee who has been with the restaurant until 7 a.m. and she’s here from 6-7 since it opened in Lecompte. a.m. doing the salt and peppershak- Laborde started out washing dishes ers, silverware, etc. If you’re not before becoming a waitress. At age here at 7, you won’t see her. She 74, she continues to work one hour opens the store for everyone. a day from 6-7 a.m. Inspiration to work in the culi- Contribution to restaurant: nary industry: It’s been her whole Her dedication. Several years ago, life. When she’s not here, she says, she fell in a puddle on her way to referring to the employees, “They work. She worked her shift before miss me.”• calling her sister to come pick her up and take her to the emergency — Christian Moises

36 Culinary Connoisseurs CityBusiness file photo

lifetime Dalton Achievement milton

Retired, Rib Room maitre d’

Years at establishment: 1960 to 2007, Major milestones: (discussing his pro- at all establishments within the Omni Royal motion to assistant banquet rooms manag- Orleans Hotel. I started as a busboy in er) I was available, I was ready to work, I 1960, then I was a waiter and a bartender did my job and management recognized it. in the Touche for six to eight months, did a It was exciting as hell when management few months in room service. … I worked chose me for assistant banquet rooms as the assistant banquet rooms manager manager. I had no experience at all. for five years, then assistant maitre d’ for 14 years, then maitre d’. Inspiration to work in the culinary industry: When I was in high school, I Community involvement: worked in Old Jefferson Downs as a bus- I spoke at a school (Abramson Charter) for boy. I was looking for a job and had no career day for the hospitality industry. It idea what I wanted. My first busboy gig (the job) just takes a lot out of your time. was at the Omni Royal. It was fascinating. I learned something new every day about Contribution to restaurant: My contri- food, wine, people, etc. Even though I did bution was to make everyone who walked the same thing every day, the people were into that dining room feel like they were different every day.• walking into the dining room at my house. I treated them like a guest, not a customer. — Fritz Esker

Dalton Milton, maitre d' of The Rib Room at the Omni Royal Orleans Hotel for 46 years, rides in a French Quarter second line after his retirement April 26, 2007.

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New Orleans CityBusiness August 18, 2008 37 Photo by Frank Aymami

lifetime Achievement Shirley Rubin Soileau’s Dinner Club, Opelousas

Years at establishment: to believe you only get one employed 20 years or longer, I started in 1969 when I was a chance to make a first impres- but I’ve been here the longest. I teenager. I held every possible sion, and I always strive to make really enjoy the environment of job, even waitressed a little, and it a good one. It’s important to respect at Soileau’s. If some- now I am head cook. I was hired please the people. We have one thing is done wrong, no one by Clarence Soileau, the original hard and fast rule: We use quali- fusses. We just work together owner. … Mr. Clarence is 96, ty ingredients with no shortcuts. to do it right the next time. and I still bring him and his We make everything here, start- wife, Mable, food from the ing with our own raw product. Inspiration to work in the restaurant every day. We even make our own tartar culinary industry: sauce. Mr. C always said if you I didn’t think I’d be doing it all Community involvement: start off with a quality product, my life. I started out thinking it I’ve never had much time for that. there is not much you can do to was a job to earn a living, but I If I’m not working at the restau- mess it up. was good at it. Mr. C and his rant, I am taking care of the brother-in-law developed all the Soileaus. Everybody at the restau- Major milestones: recipes we use and passed rant is like family to me. I’ve This will be a major milestone them down. The recipes are never married or had children. for me. In 2006, I was awarded kept under lock and key, but I the Louisiana Restaurant can’t remember the last time I Contribution to restaurant: Association’s legend award for had to look at them. They’re all I’d have to say the personal being the longest employed in my head.• touch, the pride I take in getting worker at Soileau’s. We have 10 things right. Mr. C raised us all employees who have been — Angelle Bergeron

Chef Mark Quitney’s

A FRESH APPROACH TO FOOD.

THERE’S A NEW CHEF IN TOWN.

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