Puglia in Spring Naturetrek Tour Report 13 - 20 April 2019 Early Spider Orchid by Ron Brown Southern Festoon by Susan Wilsher Eurasian Hoopoe by Ron Brown Italian Pool Frog by Ron Brown Report compiled by Jessica Turner and Paul Harmes Images by Ron Brown & Susan Wilsher Naturetrek Wolf’s Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Puglia in Spring Tour Participants: Jessica Turner and Paul Harmes (leaders) with 15 Naturetrek clients Summary Our third Naturetrek visit to Puglia was very enjoyable. In terms of flowers, it was a later season, and there was less visible migration this year. However, we still saw a fair number of Marsh and Hen Harriers (the latter possibly all male), plus a couple of Montagu’s Harriers. We also had at least one dark-phase Booted Eagle and a Bonelli’s Eagle flying overhead. The Lesser Kestrels were a delight, as was the Lanner Falcon seen by Ron, and the more distant one out over the sea. The Hoopoes were rather elusive, but we had some good views, especially on the last afternoon. The sheer abundance, together with the range and diversity of orchids was breath-taking, and we also enjoyed a good range of other Mediterranean spring flowers, many localised to Puglia or with a peri -Adriatic distribution such as the maroon-flowered Figwort Scrophularia lucida and the blue spikes of the bellflower Asyneuma limonifolium by Capo d’Otranto. The Risso’s Dolphins and Audouin’s Gulls added interest, and we enjoyed too, the range of architecture from cave dwellings via trulli to cathedrals, with Matera being especially fascinating. While it was unsettled at first, we were fortunate to be able to dodge most of the rain, and for most of the time we were able to enjoy sun, and pleasant temperatures. The exceptionally vivid rainbow over the sea will remain in our memories a long while. Jessica and Paul would like to thank the group members for their parts in making a very successful week. Day 1 Saturday 13th April Gatwick to Bari; transfer to Otranto The group flew from Gatwick Airport’s North Terminal on an Easyjet 8.40am flight to Bari, where they met with Jessica and Paul, who were already in Italy. The luggage was stowed in the minibuses, and we were soon on our way south-east along the coast. Our route followed the ‘Adriatic highway’ past Brindisi, and we enjoyed the Crown Daisies (Glebionis coronarium) along the route. As well as the common Magpies and Collared Doves, we noted a couple of migrating Marsh Harriers and a grey one, not seen well enough to identify, but which probably would have been Hen or Montagu’s – a good start. We drove through some extremely heavy rain, but showers were localised. As we drove through the extensive Olive groves, we could see how many have succumbed to the devastating bacterial infection Xylella fastidiosa that is destroying the area’s Olives. We took a break at service just north of Lecce, where we saw a fine male Marsh Harrier, and enjoyed the Italian Sparrows. It was dry here, but cloudy, so we explored the Olive grove nearby. Plants included Sand Catchfly (Silene conica), on which we could see how the calyx inflates after flowering, a Childing Pink (Petrorhagia dubia), Field Marigold (Calendula arvensis), and a fine stand of Early Spider Orchids (Ophrys sphegodes), a very variable species, with these showing a relatively broad lip. A Painted Lady, Small Heath and an unidentified white butterfly were seen, plus some Pollen Chafers (Oxythyrea funesta) and a Scarce Tortoise Sheildbug. Moving on, we skirted Lecce and Otranto, following the road along the coast past the lighthouse at Capo d’Otranto. We were soon at the Masseria Panareo, our base for the first three nights, where we received a very warm welcome and settled into our rooms. This delightful hotel is a converted fortified farmhouse, with views across to the sea. After a short break, we met in the bar while Jessica outlined some of the plans for the © Naturetrek April 2017 1 Puglia in Spring Tour Report week, before enjoying a delicious dinner. As we retired to bed, Scops Owl was calling from the surrounding trees. Day 2 Sunday 14th April Capo d’Otranto; Otranto area The morning was grey and still, and some of the group were up early to explore the environs of the hotel, accompanied by the cheerful chirping of the many Italian Sparrows that inhabit the palm trees near the rooms. We admired Field Gladiolus (Gladiolus italicus) and Honeywort (Cerinthe major) at a field edge. Birds, apart from the sparrows, were rather quiet, but we heard, and had brief views of, a Hoopoe. A rocky area had some Sawfly Orchids (Ophrys tenthredinifera) and Pyramidal Orchids (Anacamptis pyramidalis), the latter mainly still in bud. Other plants included the very aromatic Shrubby Thyme (Thymbra capitata) and the narrow-leaved endemic Rock-rose Helianthemum jonium. After an excellent breakfast, we set off to explore the local area, retracing our route of the previous evening. A small flock of Lesser Kestrels was feeding over one of the fields. We stopped on top of a small limestone ridge, with views over the sea, near the Capo d’Otranto. Corn Buntings were singing, with their characteristic ‘jangling keys’ song, and we could also hear Skylark. Just by the minibuses were some plants of the bellflower Asyneuma limonifolium, which is special to Puglia within Italy, but which also occurs across the Adriatic. Large numbers of Pyramidal Orchids were in flower here, in various shades of pink, amidst the yellow Jerusalem Sage (Phlomis fruticosa) and pink Hawk’s-beard (Crepis rubra). Shrubby Thyme was extremely fragrant, as was Summer Savory (Satureja hortensis), the latter with small pink flowers. As we explored the area, we also found Small-flowered Tongue Orchid (Serapias parviflora), Pink Butterfly Orchids (Anacamptis papilionacea), more Sawfly Orchids and Early Spider Orchids, and the smaller-flowered Yellow Bee Orchids Ophrys lutea subsp. galilea. Other plants included the Lupin Lupinus gussonei, dark blue Tassel Hyacinth (Leopoldia comosa), tiny rosettes of Evax (Filago pygmaea), and numerous vetches, including the beautiful dark-red Asparagus Pea (Lotus tetragonolobus). A Woodchat Shrike was feeding round a fence-line, and perching up on bushes, showing well. Numerous Swallows and House Martins were hawking overhead, and Bee-eaters were heard. Italian Wall Lizards were numerous, and one was very confiding, basking on an old tyre. Giant Centipedes were sheltering under a boulder, while butterflies included Painted Lady, Orange Tip and Small Heath, and we also saw Ragusa’s Nine-spotted moth. Eventually, we moved on, but only as far as the lighthouse at Capo d’Otranto. This is the most easterly point of mainland Italy, closer to the Albanian coast and Corfu than Naples, and is the point where the Adriatic Sea is said to join the Ionian Sea. It was noted that some mobile phones welcomed us to Greece! We could see the mountains of Albania on the horizon. We started to walk down the path towards the lighthouse, noting the fragrant leaves of Myrtle (Myrtus communis), Lentisk, also known as Mastic Bush (Pistacia lentiscus), and also the tiny holly-leaved Kermes Oak (Quercus coccifera). Another Adriatic speciality was Swallow-wort (Vincetoxicum hirundinaria subsp. adriatica), while the striking Figwort Scrophularia lucida was growing on rocks, together with Prasium (Prasium majus) and Common Sideritis (Sideritis romana). On these sheltered banks, butterflies were active, with numbers of Eastern Bath White, a Green Hairstreak, a probable Common Blue, Painted Ladies and Wall Browns. We also saw the Carpenter Bee Xylocopa iris, while Black Mining Bees were on the path. Out to sea, as well as Yellow-legged Gulls, we saw a group of Audouin’s Gulls round the cliffs, 2 © Naturetrek April 2019 Puglia in Spring Tour Report and then a Lanner Falcon flew past. We also had extended views of a pod of Risso’s Dolphins in the calm water, their backs and fins catching the sun. Eventually, we returned to the hotel for our picnic, opting to eat it inside: a wise choice as during the meal there was a heavy shower. We enjoyed a delicious lunch, including local cheeses and wine. Suitably refreshed and after a break, we then drove north to Otranto, having amazing views of a Montagu’s Harrier, probably fresh off the sea, flying right past us, so we could see all the details. We took the road to the port, parking on the edge of the old town and taking time to explore its narrow streets, Aragonese castle and ramparts, and Cathedral with a fascinating twelfth-century mosaic floor representing the tree of life. Some of the group also enjoyed genuine ‘gelati’. A couple of Swifts were overhead, and a Cetti’s Warbler was seen as well as heard by the car park. As we were about to leave there was another shower, mainly out to sea. The sun soon came out, and there was a most magnificent rainbow, one of the brightest we’d ever seen. It persisted, and we were able to enjoy it over the sea for the whole of our journey home. We met later to do our lists, before another delicious meal, and after an excellent day, which had proved much finer than the weather forecast predicted! After dinner, some of the group looked for the Scops Owl, which was calling from a tree by the hotel terrace, eventually seeing it fly out.