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Klugmann & Metullio D'antan Cusine Trieste Local April 2021 TRIESTE LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE TRIESTE IES Starred Chefs: Klugmann & Metullio D'antan cusine Trieste local tastes Cambusa A tutta birra Food & Drink N°12 Foto Max Morelli Sommario www.triestelifestyle.com N°12 CITTÀ DA GUSTARE CITTÀ DA VIVERE direttore responsabile Giovanni Marzini TASTE THE CITY LIVE THE CITY progetto editoriale Prandi Comunicazione Parlando con le stelle 4 Gastronomia 50 & Marketing di Isabella Franco e arte esotica di Lorenzo Michelli coordinamento Paola De Cassan Focolari d’antan 12 di Nicolò Giraldi Pintaudi. 52 segreteria di redazione Fabiana Parenzan L’eccellenza a colazione [email protected] Contrasti 18 Via Cesare Battisti 1, 34125 Trieste in cucina A tutta birra! 54 hanno collaborato di Furio Baldassi di Paola De Cassan Micol Brusaferro, Alice Fabi, Isabella Franco, Nicolò Giraldi, Rino Lombardi, Lorenzo Michelli, Ilaria Romanzin, Francesca Pitacco Cambusa 22 Porto Vecchio 58 di Francesca Pitacco con il contributo di Stefano Cosma, Furio Baldassi, Andar per erbe sul Carso 60 Maddalena Giuffrida, Enrico Maria Milič, Interno 8 26 di Maddalena Giuffrida Ottavio Silva di Ottavio Silva marketing advisor Ballando con 64 Stefania Boccabianca Storie e racconti 28 la šopeta N°12 — April 2021 illustrazione di... vini di Enrico Maria Milič Jan Sedmak di Stefano Cosma IES traduzioni Food & Drink 70 Rita Pecorari Novak, Produttori eroici, 32 di Micol Brusaferro Eugenia Dal Fovo, Rebecca Blakey prodotti unici progetto grafico di Alice Fabi Matteo Bartoli – Basiq impaginazione Un vento in cucina 36 Elisa Dudine – Basiq di Rino Lombardi FUORI CITTÀ OUTSIDE THE CITY stampa Riccigraf Paff! 76 foto di copertina Roberto Pastrovicchio PORTFOLIO Al Dolce Eremo con l’e-bike 78 fotografie Giulia Belli, Elisa Caldana, Massimo Cetin, Michele Colucci, Massimo Crivellari, Cibo d’autore 40 Hotel Saisera: 80 Ulderica Da Pozzo, Paola De Cassan, di Roberto Pastrovicchio sapori e coccole al castello Ernesto D’Elia Fotografo, Fulvio E. Bullo, Isabella Franco, Fabrice Gallina, Marino e Sara Bertolini Ierman, Giuliano Koren, Alessandro Michelazzi, La cucina del Tarvisiano 82 Marijan Močivnik, Mattia Mionetto, Roberto Pastrovicchio, Dominique Pozzo, Nicoletta di Ilaria Romanzin Quazzolo, Ilaria Romanzin, Laura Tessaro, Terroir Films, Federico Valente, Consorzio Lungo il Tagliamento 86 Montasio, Fototeca dei Civici Musei di Storia ed Arte, Servizi Musei e Biblioteche, Archivio Discover Trieste, Archivio PromoTurismo FVG, Archivio Adobe Stock si ringraziano Laura Carlini Fanfogna, Claudia Colecchia, Patrizia Fasolato, Michela Messina Ies Magazine Trieste Lifestyle N°12 – April 2021 Autorizzazione del Tribunale di Trieste del 16 marzo 2018, numero periodico 9/2018 V.G. 847/2018. LIFESTYLE TRIESTE BUON PRANZO! Editoriale di /by Giovanni Marzini Cook and Food, cucina e cibo. Elementi, se volete Cooking and Eating: the ultimate solace of our time, consolatori di questi tempi, prima ancora che in a way while also remaining two of life’s most ataviche esigenze di vita e innegabili forme di primordial basic needs and undeniable forms of every cultura, tra popoli, razze e genti diverse. Oggigiorno, people’s cultural expression, even the most diverse. potrebbe sembrare un controsenso individuare nelle As contradictory as it may seem, culinary traditions tradizioni culinarie di un luogo e nelle sue variegate and their local variations were deliberately chosen proposte, il percorso di questo numero di IES ed as the focus of this issue of IES: it is our belief that invece abbiamo scelto il “mangiare” ed il “bere” come food and drink represent a significant step forward significativo messaggio nella lunga strada verso il on the long way back to “normal” eating and drinking ritorno alla normalità anche di un gesto semplice, as reassuring acts in their joyous simplicity, be it N°12 — April 2021 gioioso e rassicurante come un pranzo o una cena, over lunch or dinner, with family or friends, eating at in famiglia o con gli amici, a casa o in un ristorante, home or eating out, at a restaurant or a pub… or at an una trattoria, un agriturismo… una delle tante osmize osmiza, as traditional country inns are known in these IES sparse sul territorio e che nella stagione primaverile parts extremely popular destinations among locals, vivono il loro periodo più bello. especially in spring. Perché la cucina ed il cibo di Trieste e dintorni sono Culinary traditions are first and foremost a way of e continueranno ad essere proprio uno “stile di vita”. life for the city of Trieste and its surrounding areas. Ed ecco la strada, il percorso da seguire, partendo Our journey starts from the very heart of tradition: dalle ricette di una volta, di una “cucina triestina” “cucina triestina”. Despite scepticism, Trieste’s very che a dispetto degli scettici esiste, nata com’è dalle own cuisine does exist, as the result of countless mille contaminazioni di un luogo crocevia di popoli contaminating influences, as numerous as the e tradizioni, porto di transito, arrivi e partenze. Per peoples and traditions that have met at this crossroad raccontare poi di prodotti unici, della cortissima throughout history. Unique products that reach the filiera esistente tra chi produce e ti serve in piatto: end customer via a zero-mile supply chain: meat, la carne, i formaggi, le verdure, la frutta, pesci e cheese, vegetables, fruit, fish, and shellfish, come to crostacei, che si sposano con l’universo del bere, meet the local wine realm, ranging from sparkling to dalle bollicine ai vini fermi fino a sconfinare in quello still wine varieties not to mention the century-long storico universo apertosi secoli addietro con la tradition of local breweries. produzione delle birre. This mouth-watering issue of IES pays homage to all Uno IES con l’acquolina in bocca, che idealmente those who work in the food&drink industry thousands vogliamo dedicare alle migliaia di addetti che del of people, whose job is also, and most importantly, “cook and food” hanno fatto la loro ragione di vita, their greatest passion in life, and whose livelihood was la loro passione, il loro primo lavoro e che più di altri hit the hardest during the past year. We are convinced hanno sofferto e ancora soffrono le conseguenze di that, soon, the time will come when we can wish each quanto vissuto nell’ultimo anno. Torneremo presto a other once again buon appetito an invite and a wish dirci quelle due parole che –a dispetto di un galateo that we cherish, despite what is stated in the Rules of che le sconsiglia– a noi piacciono davvero tanto: Polite Behaviour. And we are therefore proud to greet buon appetito o se preferite, citando il più famoso dei all our readers echoing the words of Pope Francis: Francesco… “buon pranzo”! “buon pranzo”! 3 LIFESTYLE TRIESTE Klugmann & Metullio: stelle della cucina ‘made in Trieste’ — Città da gustare Klugmann & Metullio: starred chefs made in Trieste N°12 — April 2021 IES PARLANDO CON LE STELLE Si definiscono cuochi anche se sono entrambi chef stellati, “perché il nostro mestiere è cucinare.” Triestini, con molti punti di contatto, ad esempio sull’utilizzo di materie prime “di prossimità”, e strade diverse di /by percorse alla ricerca della felicità. Isabella Franco TRIESTE LIFESTYLE LIFESTYLE TRIESTE 4 Taste the city Taste N°12 — April 2021 PARLANDO CON LE IES STELLE 5 LIFESTYLE TRIESTE ntonia Klugmann, classe 1979, imprenditrice di sé stessa, è approdata da qual- che anno all’acquisto di un ristorante: L’Argine a Vencò, “il posto dove mi sento libe- ra”. Matteo Metullio, dieci anni in meno, ha conquista- Città da gustare to due stelle Michelin dopo un percorso professionale al fianco di chef blasonati, anche all’estero, eA ora è a capo della brigata dell’Harry’s di Trieste. Matteo, Antonia, presentatevi in poche parole. M Sono un cuoco. Ho due grandi passioni, l’enogastronomia e lo sport, particolarmente il calcio, che ho colti- vato grazie allo studio, alla passione e alle persone che ho avuto la fortuna di conoscere. A Sono una cuoca fortunata perché faccio quello che mi piace e sono nel luo- go dove vorrei essere, in campagna dove nel poco tempo libero posso anche pas- seggiare, correre, raccogliere i frutti del- la terra, leggere. Qual è il vostro rapporto con il de- livery in questo momento così parti- colare per la ristorazione? N°12 — April 2021 M Noi abbiamo studiato a fondo nel primo lockdown come convertir- ci al delivery, proprio alla fine di una ri- IES strutturazione del ristorante quando ci aspettavamo di riaprire. Dopo aver capi- to che non avremmo riaperto presto, ab- biamo cercato aziende che producessero un packaging adatto a quello che aveva- mo deciso di fare, cioè preparare tutto il necessario, dalle attrezzature ai prodot- ti, portandolo a casa del cliente in box dotate di QR code che rimandavano a istruzioni precise su come completare il piatto, compreso un mini-film da 15 mi- un luogo di distribuzione a Trieste in In alto: gli interni del ristorante nuti con la formula del tutorial. In que- Cavana, dove il cliente nel pomeriggio “L’Argine a Vencò” a Dolegna sto modo siamo riusciti a portare a casa può ritirare il piatto preparato il giorno del Collio. del cliente lo stesso piatto che avremmo prima a Vencò. servito in ristorante. Costi sostenibili? A Durante il primo lockdown abbia- M Io stesso ho consegnato le box a mo strutturato il delivery utilizzando la casa dei clienti. L’input da parte del- creatività in chiave imprenditoriale con la proprietà era il contenimento dei numeri ridotti su base giornaliera e con costi ma restare aperti e no alla cas- una cucina che non avevo mai fatto di sa integrazione. In questo modo è stato rivisitazione della tradizione e di im- possibile dare dignità economica ai di- pianto totalmente casalingo, arricchita pendenti, offrire un servizio ma non cer- dall’esperienza e dalla tecnica che ab- to guadagnare! biamo acquisito in questi anni.
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