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VOL. XIII Issue 10

Editor-in-Chief DEEPAK MOHINDRA Deputy Editor ILA SAXENA Deputy Editor-Supplements VINITA PANDEY Contents August 16-31, 2010 Column Editor LEELA KANUGA Copy Editor VEERESHWAR SOBTI Special Correspondent (Europe) 10. MindTree CLAUDIA OLLENHAUER-RIES Advertising Team 12. LighterMoments AMIT MAHARISHI Musafir Hoon Yaaron……! 09871307950 Contributor: Neeraj Duggal Subscription Enquiry RANI MAHENDRU 011-47390000 14. WorldWrap Creative Team z Back to School Predictions Positive Could RAJKUMAR CHAHAL Bring the Shine Back to Retail SARFARAZ AHMAD (Sr.) Photo Editor z It is Show Time… JITENDER MEERWAL But are they Meaningful? 18 Publisher & Managing Director RENU MOHINDRA 18. Sustainability 09810058986, 9810438653 Walmart Involves Suppliers Head Office in ‘Sustainability 360’ Contact Communications B-32, South Extension-I, New Delhi-110 049 ...Asks them to Deliver Products that Sustain Phone: 91-11-24602283, 47390000 People & Environment Fax: 91-11-24604597 E-mail: [email protected] Web associate: www.apparelresources.com 22. MarketWatch Apparel Online contact: 91-11-47390000 School Uniforms [email protected] Sri Lanka’s Loss… India’s Gain? [email protected] Printing 30. IndustryWire 22 TARA ART PRINTERS PVT. LTD. Made by India, Mariko, Dastkari Niryat, B-4, Hans Bhawan, B.S. Zafar Marg, New Delhi-110002 Tel: 23378626, 23379686 Laguna Clothing, Amrit Exports, Mccoy Clothing, Bittoo Overseas ------SUBSCRIPTION FORM 36. TextileUpdate Yes, I wish to subscribe to Apparel Online for z Advancing Options In Knitted Fabrics INDUSTRY Silk Becomes A Viable Preposition 1 Year Rs. 1200.00 24 issues 2 Years Rs. 2160.00 48 issues z Paradigm Shift in Textile Chemicals EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTES / STUDENTS 1 Year Rs. 840.00 24 issues …Maximum Performance With Minimum (For delivery by courier Rs.360 (NCR) and Rs.720 Environmental Footprint (rest of India) will be charged extra per annum.) BANGLADESH, PAKISTAN & SRI LANKA 36 1 Year US$ 80.00 24 issues 42. H2F [HOME FASHION FUTURE] 2 Years US$ 140.00 48 issues INTERNATIONAL (OTHER COUNTRIES) Indian Carpet Industry on a Growth Path 1 Year US$ 150.00 24 issues Handmade Carpets still the Driver 2 Years US$ 250.00 48 issues Name ______44. ExportStatistics Company/Institute ______European Union Registers decline in imports Address ______during Jan.-April ’10 of (-) 2.71% Tel ______E-mail ______Exports from India also dip (-) 4.09% TYPE OF BUSINESS Exporter Retailer Buying House 48. ResourceCentre Any other (specify) ______42 Subscription within India-Cheque/DD in Indian Krishna Lamicoat – Largest Manufacturer of Rupees Specialized Paper Products for the Garment International subscription (in Dollar) - DD favouring Contact Communications, New Delhi/ Industry takes ‘Sustainable’ Route to Business Credit Card using www.apparelresources.com/ Telegraphic transfer to Bank Account No. 010297938930 (Swift No:SBININBBA 220) with State Bank of India, 55. Eyes&Ears South Extension-1, New Delhi-110049. INDIA Send Cheque/DD to CONTACT COMMUNICATIONS, B-32, South Extn. Part-1, New Delhi-110049, INDIA

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MINDTREE food for thought

riyanka Dudlani, Executive Director, A.P.D Exports, child labour practice, they should be punished severely PMumbai „ The Indian Apparel Industry being for it and it should be made sure that the entire included in the EO Listing is a source of concern industry doesn’t suffer because of the insensitivity of for many exporters as the US is one of our biggest a few persons. markets. I feel the AEPC has taken all the necessary QUESTION steps to counter the development by investigating shish Garg, MD, AG Fashion, Jaipur „ It appears this issue and initiating a code of ethics for the quite regretful that the Apparel Industry could The Indian industry. The Indian garment exporters are well A not undertake proper investigation and prepare the Apparel Industry aware of regulations on child labour and are necessary documented proofs that were required to has been put on against employing children in their factories. The obtain clean chit from the US Department of Labor the EO listing Government, along with the AEPC, will hopefully be whereas the Carpet Export Promotion Council was able able to prove that these allegations are a matter of pertaining to to do the needful. They should now, engage with the forced and the past. By creating further awareness, we can only hope that those exporters who are responsible for concerned law consultants in US and talk about ways indentured child of being omitted from the list. Also, the common compliance labour, by the US stray cases that bring international media attention to the issue also realize that child labour will not lead code should be developed as soon as possible. Department of to any benefits, but will only be detrimental for the It is also a fact that the work required in the Apparel Labor. This entire industry. Industry can’t be deftly done by children as they lack development the capacity to learn the much needed skills at such a could impact tender age. Most of the workers we employ are semi- sourcing from the tman P. Shah, Vice-President Marketing, Artex skilled and skilled. Now is the need to support the fact country...What do AApparels, Ahmedabad „ Such a scenario wherein child labour was prominently used in the industry with proof! you think the AEPC existed way back in the sixties, but now the buyers are should do now… very stringent about their compliances. They refuse to am Avtar Kandoi, MD, Avon Creations, Jaipur Are the actions „ work with such firms which are engaged in malpractices Apparel Export Promotion Council is an entrusted they are taking R like child labour. body of the Indian Apparel Industry. It is quite enough? The AEPC has undoubtedly been slow in taking action. unfortunate that despite being in AEPC’s notice the If any of the factories is found indulging in forced industry was put under the EO list by the US

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MINDTREE

Department of Labor. Being put under the EO list would investigating its companies and documenting the have a substantial effect on the industry in the long required information in the correct manner. run. The buyers might become reluctant to work with the Indian companies. itendra Kaushal, MD, J.K. Overseas, Delhi „ No matter The industry should support the AEPC in the procedure Jhow much the industry shies away from reality, but it has/would undertake to remove the country’s name the fact remains that some of the units still practice from the EO list. Obviously, the steps AEPC had taken child labour. The sad part is that the blame is shared earlier did not suffice. However, the industry rests its even by those who are not utilizing child labour or trust in the AEPC and hopes it is able to come up with indulging in any such activities. The units which are a solution soon. into the manufacturing of basic wear/fast fashion will not be affected much but the ones dealing in high ivek Thakur, Managing Director, Aryavart, Jaipur fashion would definitely be affected in the long run, V„ It appears to be an odd fact that the Indian as they are the ones outsourcing to contractors using Apparel Industry has been put in the EO list by the US child labour. Department of Labor. As a matter of fact, the industry is The actions taken by Apparel Export Promotion Council facing shortage of manpower as far as the blue collared are insufficient. It should do a deeper investigation workers are concerned. Practices like child labour can and notify the units on any updates. It should also pace only be forced by the firms if the human capital is up on the formation of the common compliance code. available in surplus. QUESTIONNAIRE AEPC should give deadlines to the concerned personnel involved in the investigation so that the Is the manufacturing of disposable products made from technical textiles matter is taken care of as soon as possible. Since, India the growth direction for the garment industry…Do you think there is space has been put in the list while AEPC was taking actions for new players in this niche market? in this regard; it shows that AEPC is not taking enough Write your comments to us by 21st August 2010 at: [email protected] or post your steps to solve the problem. views online through our website: www.apparelresources.com It should take advice and consult the Carpet Export Promotion Council since it was very speedy in

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LIGHTER MOMENTS Musafir Hoon Yaaron……! CONTRIBUTOR: NEERAJ DUGGAL, ASSISTANT MANAGER MERCHANDISING, IMPULSE

t is a dream for all of us to all set to go for this trip and the last working day we had to travel light, but with the need travel arrangements started head straight to the airport Ito squeeze in as many with a lot of excitement. from our customer’s office. Our samples and presentations as One by one, 16 suitcases were bags needed to be repacked possible, our business travel packed and all bags were then now, with additional luggage of invariably means lugging those duly marked to identify the new sampling requests, and huge suitcases across the product inside so that heavy customer manual copies oceans, to wherever we are unpacking at the final to be distributed to vendors headed for! destination would be much getting the test orders… and as This story goes back to year easier. All too pleased with our we started packing, we 2007, when I was working for a packing expertise, finally we wondered how we were going to big multinational sourcing had 16 bags all lined up to take fit all this into our 16 bags company, and one of the to the weighing machine since which seemed just not enough customers wanted us to arrange it was important that we did to hold everything! All 16 bags, a Vendor Meet in their corporate not exceed the allowed luggage along with 16 small handbags, office in Boston. A Vendor Meet weight when we checked in were arranged in a hall as we started to pack… and the heavy meant about a dozen vendors for our flight… being invited and each vendor catalogues and files went into The travel went smooth and was to have a stall presenting the hand luggage to make sure Boston was sunny and their product. This was a good the check in bags had more beautiful, and our customer, an opportunity for our team also to volume… but less weight! excellent host, we started our travel and finally 8 of us, Finally, all was under control Day 1 as planned. The vendors including our team leader, were which was an exemplary proof who had stalls the first day had of teamwork as each one of us also arrived and we all met up in helped in achieving our goal, the customer’s office, and the and as the last bag was put on 1st day was flagged off with the weighing machine and great success. found acceptable, there were Day 2 followed in a similar cheers all around and we manner as more vendors were ready to head for the exit arrived, and it looked like a mini door to catch the coach booked India with so many of us there, by the host office to take us to and at the entrance to the the airport. presentation hall, we had The coach arrived and the arranged a small table with driver came and greeted us… pictures of Lord Ganesha to introducing himself as Bob and create the proper ambience. exchanging friendly hellos… As the Vendor Meet ended, which were very short-lived as followed by 2 more days for our soon as his eyes fell on the team to stay back to work with luggage piled up in a corner! He various buying teams on looked at the huge bags in utter sample developments etc., the disbelief and turning to us, excitement was building up as asked in a shocked voice… “Is few test orders were also all this to go to the airport?” placed! It was now time to “Yes of course… and some head home to start working small handbags as well…...!! on all these follow-ups on the Answered the Luggage new orders. supervisor in our team and

Illustration...Anni Jha We had a late evening flight out giving Bob a sweet smile, he from Boston back to India; suggested it was time now to which meant at the end of our load the luggage!

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LIGHTER MOMENTS

Bob was still in a state of shock and he quickly took out his COLUMN EDITOR pager to call his boss to share the alarming challenge ahead of him to load in his coach 16 huge bags…, some small bags… and 8 Indians!!! We heard him telling his boss that never in his life had he seen such massive bags and he needed help desperately... Hello Dear Readers, it was An Emergency!!!!!!!! The title of our current story reminds me of a dear friend of mine from our By now, we had started looking industry, Ajju. He is an extremely at our watches as it was getting successful entrepreneur doing great close to our flight time, and the business, and is always on the move airport was a good hour away. meeting various buyers and booking great orders! He has been fondly Bob was still under shock and nicknamed Musafir due to his ever so wanted to wait for a second frequent travels and in fact that’s the coach to arrive as he thought it name with which his personal e-mail was impossible for all of us to fit ID starts! Such is the impact of into his vehicle. But there was business travels on our lives! no time to wait for another Travelling in a group is always lot of fun as we can also see in this story vehicle and our team leader had how the team of 8 seems to have a good idea as she gently went to enjoyed themselves at the end of a Bob and explained the situation hectic business trip. I fondly recall to him. She also suggested that some business trips to New York where managers and merchants from all the loading of the bags will be our team often travelled together along done by our team and Bob need with me for various meetings, and at not worry at all as we would end of the day, we would enjoy a meal arrange all bags in such a way together recapping the day… and on that there will be enough room one such trip, six of us went along for a Broadway musical, Fiddler On The for everything and everyone. Roof, and enjoyed it thoroughly. Finally, Bob gave his nod and Another time, when it was peak of before he could change his winter, we decided to hop onto the mind, we quickly started to load NY city tour bus and wrapped in the bags one by one… the bigger jackets and monkey caps, were the ones went first as each bag only occupants of the top deck of the bus to get a good view of NY by night! passed from one hand to the It was a miracle that we did not other and finally landed inside freeze……!!! the vehicle. Soon, all 16 bags had LEELA KANUGA been deposited… and now it [email protected] was the turn of the hand luggage which was fitted in-between the gaps, and on top of the large bags. The drive to the airport was full By the time the luggage was in, of fun and even though all of us the coach seemed fully packed sat cramped in-between the bags, with no apparent space for 8 of the sense of having achieved the us! But then we Indians always goal was euphoric! Someone find jugaads for everything... suggested antakshari and the right? The back door of the first song was soon in the air… coach was opened and each of Musafir Hoon Yaaron… And us slid into the coach one by one and as the last team member everyone joined in clapping and jumped in… there was a loud giving beats to the song by using tabla applause as the door was shut! the top of the bags as a …!!!! Bob was the only one left outside By now Bob had also got into the the coach immobilized, as he cheerful spirit… and as he stood watching all this action helped us unload the luggage at and one of us had to open a the Boston airport, he gave us window and whistle out to him, warm smiles as our team leader with a thumbs up sign and thanked him while handing over telling him that it was time to a handsome tip. … I’m sure he’ll move on to the airport! never forget us!

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WORLDWRAP

Back to School Predictions Positive Could Bring the Shine Back to Retail The Back to School (BTS) sales in the US for 2010 season is expected to show a burst for the first time in the last three years with sales projected to rise a 5.4% to reach a total of $ 38.4 billion. It cannot be overlooked that BTS is a critical time for retailers, accounting for roughly 40% of all retail revenue from July to September. This year there is clear indication that BTS season will bring cheer to the retailers looking to improve footfalls. The International Council of Shopping Centers (ICSC) recently estimated that American consumers will spend $ 38.4 billion on back-to-school merchandise in 2010, which would be a record high, in fact the highest since 1995.

he National Retail No wonder, for the first time, that consumers’ recession- Federation (NRF) annual teen retailer Abercrombie & induced behaviours are T Back-to-School Consumer Fitch Co. (ANF) is tapping beginning to wane as Intentions Survey predicts that Facebook as a marketing tool in households seek to replenish the average American family will a promotion that gives teens a certain items and worry less spend an average $ 606.40 to shot at Hollywood fame. about the economy,” Paul said. prepare their children for a Abercrombie also launched its According to the survey, discount return to the classroom this racy quarterly magazine for the stores were still the No. 1 year, which would be a generous first time in seven years, and shopping destination, with 89% budget allowance for a rival Aeropostale Inc.’s (ARO) of consumers’ surveyed saying consuming population that has new initiatives include advertising they planned to shop at discount needed multiple Government in Teen Vogue and featuring real stores for back-to-school items. rebate bribes to motivate them to teens in addition to models in its 31% of consumers said they open their wallets this year. campaigns. Meanwhile, Discounter would shop at traditional In the online Consumers made it clear in the Target Corp. (TGT) has department stores, up from 26% increased the number of schools survey, 28% of NRF survey that they will be last year, and 23% cited it offers transportation to and 1,050 parents of doing more comparison specialty clothing stores, an shopping online during the 2010 from for college freshmen’s increase of six percentage school-age after-hours shopping. children said back-to-school season. points over 2009. they were Endorsing the view, a Deloitte “Retailers may be encouraged Retailers are also going to need planning to survey says that though fewer that fewer consumers are to be good retailers in order to spend more this parents plan to cut their planning to pare back this year, capture the back-to-school back-to-school budgets, but they year on back-to- although they may find that dollar and experts feel that it is will count more on smartphones shoppers continue to be school clothing not going to be enough to lure and social networking to find deliberate in their purchases,” back-to-school shoppers through and supplies, the best bargains during the said Alison Paul, Deloitte’s retail while 17% said the front door with discounts. second biggest shopping sector leader in the United It’s the shopping experience they would season of the year. States. In the online survey, 28% spend less once they’re inside that will of 1,050 parents of school-age make – or break – the sale they children said they were say. Even though companies planning to spend more this may have forgotten this retailing year on back-to-school clothing 101 principle, shoppers haven’t. and supplies, while 17% said The loss of a back-to-school they would spend less. purchase due to poorly executed This year, 58% of respondents retailing fundamentals this year said they would change the way will be a big loss because spending they shop for back-to-school sprees are finite in the post- items by buying more items on recession consuming paradigm. sale or only items family If back-to-school spending members really needed. Last predictions actually turn into year, 70% of the respondents spending reality, the retailers said they expected to change that aren’t able to secure a the way they shopped because respectable share of back-to- of the recession, down from 90% school spending won’t be able to in 2008. “The survey indicates blame it on the economy.

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WORLDWRAP

BRUCE’S INSIGHTS

Trends in This Back to School Season… IT IS SHOW TIME… 2010 is not just the beginning of a new decade of renewed BUT ARE THEY MEANINGFUL? interest in shopping; it’s also a This is the month of August, a busy time for the USA, with all the apparel shows year when many old school coming this month, I am wondering whether the expense of exhibiting, or for that trends are popping back into the “what’s cool” and “what’s matter the expense of travelling to view them is worth it? green” scene. Today with the downturn in the economy, many people are seeking out ways to ere are just a few of the apparel fairs in save money and become thrifty, August with many conflicting dates: World turning what was once a thing Market Center in LV, LA Fashion Market in Bruce S.Berton H Executive Vice President & of the past into a new trend LA, Designers & Agents Show in LA, Focus Show COO, Roochi Traders Inc., USA at the CMC in LA, Transit Show, in LA, NMB/Print that are sweeping the nation. Direct your queries to: These trends give teens the Wear Show in LB, ASR Show in SD, MAGIC shows [email protected] ability to express their in LV, and Offprice shows in LV… These are just individuality without a few happening in California and Nevada. overstating and they won’t bust Internationally, it is about the same… just too their duties, since everyone in their own way their family budgets too much. many concurring fairs. is trying to run their business Lean and Mean. This year’s school clothes are Will new exiting FASHION at these shows For those of us who are in the manufacturer’s simple in colours but rich in be enough to generate the necessary catalyst, side of the trade shows, we are looking to textures. Whether for men or for the ultimate consumer to come out and shorten lead times to make sales, and having start buying? women, the olden looks of the customer come back for ‘fill-ins’ if our distressed denim jackets can Not all market places are as diverse as the USA, goods sell. Therefore, when we go to shows, set a good fashion statement for but it seems that these shows are becoming more we have to cover not just for the market we are those who wear it. The good retail consumer-specific and very expensive to be trying to sell into, but have immediate product, thing about these jackets is that an exhibitor. The RAZZLE! DAZZLE! PARTYING! to cover the needed inventory of the retailer. they look very good on slacks Seeing new places is all great, but (very expensive), Since we cover many climatic conditions and and even skirts so it is easy to and the servicing needed to attract potential seasons, it is difficult to prepare for these mix-and-match with other customers to create sales is not easy… I do not shows. The concepts, both new and old, are clothing. Since dresses are believe this is taking place in these times, ( as it becoming hard to show to excite new now back on the trend charts, once did), to directly offset the costs of attending customers, and the testing of new product there is an increased demand or being an exhibitor or finding a reliable vendor lines are not getting the advantages of being for traditional prints like to deliver. tested in these economic times, as retailers paisleys on 100% cotton, which Many of those vendors showing products at the only have monies for tried products that are is one of the biggest strengths fair are not really sound financially to deliver the true winners. How your show monies are to be of Indian manufacturers. products, or do not accumulate the orders needed spent, is now a very important question as to According H&M, a Swedish to go into actual production. Many of the larger what is best for your business. retailer that have moved into shows now are having large sections for Should it be spent visiting the customer America’s mainstream malls SOURCING, mainly for the people exhibiting, and directly, put on sales representatives in a given and has gotten very popular not necessarily for the retailers that are the visitors territory, used to upgrade your website, with teens, this fall’s to these shows. sending via email blasts advertising, all this fashionable skirts will be below True, it is very costly to cover the retail and many more direct sales methods are an the knee. Pins, stacked marketplace by having representatives in various option… are these costs going to cut into the bracelets and bright coloured territories, but now with better communications, TRADE SHOWS budgets? bags are everywhere. The piled- and camera technology sending new styles to the Consumers purchase products that appeal to on-thrift-store-shopping-look is retailer is being done daily, and the vendors are not them, these products are purchased from in because teens are watching waiting to show their products at a show. some type of vendor, and the product needs their budget and actually We have many different ‘LIFE STYLE’ options in to be manufactured by some form of shopping in thrift stores. which to sell products; it is almost a good guessing production; therefore how to get your product Natural in colour, although game as to where one should set up their booth, or into the marketplace requires many decisions, some are dyed, the suede and booths. Quick response, speed to market, fast turnover, of how to get exposure. leather sneakers are what are the key words in today’s world of apparel. teens will be looking for this fall This exposure can be very costly, so I am which indicates a very potential It seems these trade shows are shrinking, as it has only asking is the TRADE SHOW still a market for the footwear and become difficult for store owners to get away from viable cost in doing business? accessory manufacturers.

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SUSTAINABILITY Walmart Involves Suppliers in ‘Sustainability 360’ ...Asks them to Deliver Products that Sustain People & Environment

n the last five years the biggest direction for most Iretailers has been on GAP Promoting Denim Recycling ‘sustainability’ and leading the movement in the US is Walmart. GAP Inc. has joined Cotton Inc.’s Starting first with its internal latest ‘From Blue to Green’ processes and retail outlets, the denim recycling initiative, which is efforts are now moving down taking place across 1,000 GAP the supply chain to involve and stores in North America and impact suppliers around the Puerto Rico. world. Walmart’s sustainability Consumers across both counties program – ‘Sustainability 360’ is will be able to donate their old built on three broad parameters denim at local GAP stores and – to be supplied 100% by which will then be converted into renewable energy; to create UltraTouch Natural Cotton Fibre zero waste; and to sell Insulation, and donated to products that sustain people communities in need. Eagle Outfitters, Bloomingdales, and the environment. Suppliers The first From Blue to Green National Jean Company, Ernest around the world are now denim drive in 2006 collected Sewn and G by Guess. being asked to comply with 14,566 denim pieces across the the requirements and work US, more than double the To date, the UltraTouch Natural within the parameters of anticipated amount. Since then, Cotton Fiber Insulation defined goals. the project has expanded its manufactured by Bonded Logic Inc. has recycled enough denim With around 100,000 suppliers, reach through partnerships with national retailers and to create natural cotton fibre 2 million associates and 8,400 organizations including American insulation for over 540 homes. retail units around the world, Walmart has the strength to Walmart create a positive change in the wants to environment and it is now better leveraging that advantage. In understand India, Walmart’s office in Sears Canada Boosts Eco-offer Bangalore serves as Walmart’s the practices Motivated by a recent report from WWF Canada which says that 80% of Global Procurement (GP) hub Canadians are motivated to reduce negative impact on the environment, of its for the sourcing of merchandise suppliers, Sears Canada Inc. has launched ‘Live Green’ a new program which from India and Sri Lanka to identifies eco-friendly products and services for customers who are looking keep their Walmart stores and Sam’s for greener products. promise to Clubs globally. “We are currently investing in suppliers to help The Live Green products are designed to reduce energy consumption, customers of create a healthy home and save money. It includes little footprint pillows them improve their social and made from recycled water bottles; apparel collection called ‘Attitude’ which delivering environmental compliance and incorporates Lenzing Lyocell; a collection of organic cotton tees and dresses great products we want our suppliers to from the Jessica brand, Canada’s number one selling women’s clothing increase their energy-efficiency that will help label; and Portico, a line of certified organic cotton towels and bedding. them save by 20%,” says Sunil Jacob, Regional Manager, Ethical Sears stores across Canada participated by turning off exterior store signs money and live Sourcing, Walmart, India and outdoor perimeter lighting. Stores that were open during the hour better. and Sri Lanka. He further also reduced their lighting and turned off lights in non-essential areas like adds, “The goal is to deliver lunch rooms, offices and stock rooms. Sunil Jacob, products which are free of In 2008, Sears committed to reducing the environmental impact of its Regional Manager, defects or contain less operations with goals that include recycling 90% of its waste and further Ethical Sourcing, than 1% defect, as we are very reducing its energy consumption by 20% within 5 years. Since 2007, Walmart, India and Sears has reduced its paper consumption by 30%. Sri Lanka clear of what we want to deliver to our customers.”

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SUSTAINABILITY

H&M Launches Working with a diverse group has provided the initial funding of stakeholders, Walmart is for the Sustainability Index Sustainable moving towards credible, Consortium, and invited all transparent measurements retailers and suppliers Collection that will help them reward to contribute. suppliers for innovative, The final step in affordable products that are developing the index is to more sustainable for people translate the product and the planet. “We want to information into a simple work with suppliers who share rating for consumers about our vision and concerns,” says the sustainability of Swedish retailer H&M has Sunil. The tool used for products. This will provide launched its first collection measuring ‘commitment’ of customers with the featuring 100% sustainable suppliers is the sustainability transparency into the quality materials. The Garden index introduced by Walmart and history of products that Collection represents a major some time back, which helps to they don’t have today. “The step towards H&M’s pledge to establish a single source of powerful questions covering customer should know once increase its use of organic data for evaluating the familiar territory, such as the they pick up a product, what products to 50% each year sustainability of products. This location of the suppliers’ is the impact of sustainability until 2013 and comes index works in three phases: factories, along with new they are going to make on shortly after the company said supplier sustainability areas like water use and solid it had no reason to believe purchasing a product,” assessment, lifecycle analysis waste. The survey is a key that the organic cotton used reasons Sunil Jacob. database and developing a step towards enhancing for its garments was Walmart wants to better simple tool for customers. transparency in their contaminated with genetically understand the practices of its supply chain. modified seeds. The supplier survey includes suppliers. This helps them to H&M authorities said that they 15 questions that serve as As a second step, the company keep their promise to are aware that last year the benchmark for Walmart’s is helping to create a customers of delivering great Indian authority, APEDA, had suppliers to evaluate their own consortium of universities that products that will help them criticized certifiers for sustainability efforts. The will collaborate with suppliers, save money and live better. They insufficient checks of farmers’ questions focus on four areas: retailers, NGOs and see their suppliers as partners control systems for seeds and energy and climate; material Government to develop a global in this sustainability drive, and sowing. As a consequence of efficiency; natural resources; database of information on the the surveys and audits help the criticism, Control Union and people and community. lifecycle of products – from raw them to reinforce and advance conducted unannounced The survey includes simple but materials to disposal. Walmart those partnerships. audits of all organic cotton farms that they certify in India. “None of the farms were found to use GM seeds, and all farms took the appropriate M&S Aspires to be World’s most ‘Sustainable Retailer’ steps to ensure that GM seeds were not used,” said Marks & Spencer has set a 5- helps to reduce the tonnage of Karolina Dubowicz from H&M’s year deadline to become the clothing sent to landfill. press department. ‘world’s most sustainable retailer’ M&S aspires to be the first major “Promoting organic cotton is as it announces 80 major new retailer to ensure full traceability part of H&M’s environmental commitments under its ‘Plan A’ of all the key raw materials used environmental initiative. strategy and we encourage in its clothing and home products cotton farmers to switch to The retailer will convert all its including cotton, wool, polyester, organic cultivation. We also 36,000 product lines into ‘Plan A nylon, leather and wood and want to make it possible for products’ that have at least one plans to create 200 ‘Plan A’ our customers to make a sustainable quality such as factories with either ethical or greener choice, which is carrying the fair trade logo or environmental features, or both. another reason we offer being produced from sustainable Farmers will be encouraged garments with certified materials. The company would to an M&S sustainable organic cotton.” aim to convert 50% of its agriculture programme. products by 2015 and The Garden Collection, which In 2009-10 alone, M&S said 100% by 2020. includes floral prints and 70s ‘Plan A’ cut CO2 emissions by flower-power designs, will be M&S aims to increase the 40,000 tonnes, recycled two made using organic and number of garments its million used garments via sustainable materials, such as customers recycle every year Oxfam and used 1,500 tonnes organic cotton, organic linen, from two million to 20 million, of recycled polyester – the recycled polyester made from including via its existing equivalent of 37 million PET-bottles and Tencel. partnership with Oxfam, which plastic bottles.

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MARKETWATCH

SCHOOL UNIFORMS SRI LANKA’S LOSS… INDIA’S GAIN?

For the past four years, clothes worth billions of pounds have been imported he UK, which is the tax-free to the European Union under a trade scheme intended to help Sri biggest market for school T uniforms today followed Lanka’s recovery from the 2004 Boxing Day Tsunami. Within months, however, by Ireland, Spain and France, clothes from the country could disappear from British shops, as the EU looks and is generating business worth 450 million pounds per set to punish the Government’s alleged human rights abuses in the recent season. Four years ago, this civil war by withdrawing the trade benefits known as GSP (generalized system segment attracted the attention of the Office of Fair Trading of preferences) Plus. This move will add 10 per cent to the cost of products (OFT), which launched an manufactured in Sri Lanka, forcing many retailers to seek cheaper alternatives. investigation into the sector’s competitiveness. The watchdog The three big products coming from Sri Lanka include lingerie, sportswear concluded that the uniforms and school uniforms. While lingerie and sportswear are technology dependent should be available at high street products requiring investment and skilled workers, school uniforms are more chains rather than individual expensive shops. Since then standard products that most children’s wear manufacturers can handle. The major supermarkets are in open opportunity is huge as industry estimates say that Sri Lanka is manufacturing price war to entice lucrative around 20% of UK’s requirement in school uniforms, a market that could back-to-school customers. These back-to-school shoppers suffer with the withdrawal of GSP plus. Is there a possibility that Sri Lanka’s are keenly fought over because loss could be India’s gain? they tend to buy other unrelated goods when they go into a store AO analyses the market and India’s preparedness to capture the opportunity… to buy school uniforms, which is an unavoidable purchase. In this sense, school uniforms are category killers that supermarkets like Asda, Tesco, and Sainsbury’s are keenly fighting for share in the market, more so as earlier leaders in the segment Woolworth are no longer in the business. M&S has a strong presence for higher- end consumers willing to pay more for school uniforms. With the market seeing growth, suppliers to the market are looking to build capacities. Recently, Blue Max, the school uniform importer, has bought rival school wear maker ‘The Banner Group’ in a deal that will create the UK’s biggest uniforms supplier with turnover of more than £ 25 million. Nigel Plenderleith, the Managing Director of Blue Max said school uniforms grew in

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Among the current demands in finishes is Teflon coating, wrinkle free and Current Status water resistant. In knits the basic requirement is anti-pilling. Though some items are being manufactured in 100% cotton, the most favoured fabric is of GSP+ in a polyester/cotton blend – either 55% polyester and 45% cotton or 65% Sri Lanka polyester and 35% cotton blended fabric which is suited to the specific demands of the school uniform market.

Sri Lanka is a current importance in the UK under the beneficiary of GSP+, Conservative administration along with 15 other from the early 1980s to the mid- developing countries. 1990s. He significantly expects them to be equally important Like all other GSP+ under the new coalition beneficiaries, Sri Lanka Government. “I think there will committed to maintain be an increased emphasis on its ratification uniforms, particularly for and effective Academies, as most of these implementation of the have a school uniform,” he said. 27 conventions in Other major suppliers to the UK the fields of human school uniform market are and labour Trutex, First in Class, K-12 gear, term. The uniform consisted of placed in August/September rights, sustainable to name a few, stain-proof Teflon coated with final shipments happening development and good With almost all state schools in trousers, an Easy iron shirt, a in May/June, the quantity sizes governance and which the UK asking pupils to follow a polo shirt and a sweatshirt. The and the stable nature of the business more than compensate voluntarily apply for dress code, and nearly half of same uniform for a 16-year-old for the same. The lead times GSP+ benefits when it them having a strict uniform could be bought for £ 15.25 at Tesco and £ 21.50 from M&S. after final approvals are applied for the scheme. policy, the uniform market is generally 60-75 days. Schools divided into two broad segments As of now India is not a major Sri Lanka is a major reopen in September in most – the customized uniforms sourcing/manufacturing base for beneficiary of the European countries and segment that requires logos and school uniforms and both Tesco trading opportunities importers need to have their specific colour matches, and the and Asda, the two giants of the offered by GSP+ and in stocks in place by early August. dress code market that works market do not source from the 2008, EU imports from with defined broad parameters country. According to buyers For the customized school Sri Lanka under GSP+ of colour, size, fit, item of India is not competitive and a uniform market, importers are totalled 1.24 billion clothing, etc. In the dress code school uniform (trouser + shirt), consolidating the orders from euro. The most market, the general colours are which can be sourced from different schools and then important import grey, navy blue and black. The Bangladesh for $ 6.50 and Sri placing orders with the products benefiting from shirts are mostly white or muted Lanka for $ 7, India is exporters. A few exporters have colours with no badges or logos. these trade preferences manufacturing for $ 9.00. established links directly with were T-shirts and other While the customized uniform the schools but that is a very market is serviced by importers But where Indian exporters are small business. Through the clothing items, as well who outsource requirements finding their feet and increasingly importer, the consolidated as fisheries products. from countries like China, improving performance is the business is of bigger volumes After temporary Bangladesh and Sri Lanka, the customized school uniform and prices are also better. market which has many positives withdrawal takes effect, supermarkets, competing for As the school uniform market working for them. Firstly, it is a EU imports from Sri the dress code market are also picks up pace, new demands small quantity high-value market Lanka will instead be outsourcing their requirements are coming in. Many schools are – an area that is already India’s subject to standard GSP from similar destinations. asking for bags made from the core strength. Secondly, it is a preferential treatment, The dress code market is highly same fabric as a supplement to good supplementary business under which Sri Lanka price-sensitive and for the last the uniform. Others are asking for exporters doing children’s would still enjoy few years, the supermarkets for track suits, house shirts, wear, which again is a strong have been competing on price. sports kits and fabric belts. preferential access to category from India. And lastly, Last year Asda stole the march Already the school uniform the EU market for its uniforms are a spec-sheet by offering the £ 4 uniform for all range has expanded to include key export items such business and do not require any ages, rather than a budget range trousers, shirts, skirts, as clothing that is at effort in terms of developments simply for the youngest pupils polo-shirts (T-shirts), tunics, least as generous as it as was the earlier trend. The and washes, so no extra shorts, sweatshirts, sweaters presently enjoys in other retail giant claimed it would investment is needed. and jackets. Ludhiana, major developed refund its customers in full if Though the business is very Bangalore, Chennai and Kolkata country markets. their child’s school uniform fails seasonal, with the enquiries are the main centres, but it is to last until the end of the X-mas coming in by January and orders certainly not exclusive.

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Other Markets in favour. Firstly, both Bangladesh European Countries and Sri Lanka are dependent on either India or China for the While the UK and Ireland are fabrics and trims, so India with the only two countries in the EU mills like Reliance, S Kumars that have a mandatory school and Alok who are major uniform policy, in other suppliers in this category can European countries the choice economize on raw material cost lies with the school. However, in and take the edge. Secondly, recent years more and more with ‘GSP +’ arrangement schools are opting for school between Sri Lanka and the EU uniforms and only recently set to expire on 15th August Poland has passed legislation in 2010, the country will no longer favour of school uniforms enjoy the extra competitive edge though it is still to be and India could prove a stronger implemented. In other countries, contender for shift in business. ‘Youniform’ – An initiative to cater the market in this segment is Bangladesh is already still very small, but it is a fast overflowing and may not the Indian School Uniform Market growing one with a few trends necessarily be a preferred that suggest that the volumes sourcing destination. Among the most proactive efforts to cater to the India too could become bigger. However, the constraint lies in school uniform market is ‘Youniform’ headed by According to industry sources the ‘readiness’ of the Indian there is a move in some Harminder Sahni and led by CEO, Sachin Sahni. “The garment industry to grab the European countries like mission of Youniform is to bring the modern manufacturing international business even after Germany and Spain to techniques, sizing standards, better stitching and also the GSP agreement with Sri consolidate the buying of school “all time availability” to school uniform market,” says Lanka expires. Experts feel that uniforms for 50-100 schools at Harminder. He adds, “Uniform is part of the school’s the development may open the the kindergarten level. This identity and that’s why each school has a unique design. potential but there aren’t many consolidation would mean But the basic garments are still the same in terms of Indian companies poised to look buying of school uniforms in fabric, structure and styling, so it is quite practical and at it. Since uniform is sourced bulk quantities. Another positive efficient to manufacture these in modern factories.” and retailed by large retailers, it trend is that even at the higher is like any other garment The company works along with school authorities and by education levels institutes are exports deal. Actually, the taking contracts from school for supplying uniforms. They bringing in dress codes in the average prices may be much are not only involved in designing of visual elements like form of campus jerseys and lower than fashion apparel… a colour and logo, but are equally proactive in suggesting jackets for occasions, which situation that many exporters basic fabric, type of stitching and even the fibre content means more requirements! will not be interested in. And in of fabrics for various functions (use of PC fabrics instead As off now most of the private schools where direct of PV or 100% polyester, usage of Lycra or Spandex European markets are contracts are given by schools, content). Expands Harminder, “a school child’s trouser controlled by large retailers and the size of order may be too should have elastic fibres for flexibility, as the same trouser schools don’t give contracts small to make it worthwhile for a is worn during games period too, and the buttons should directly. Madrid-based Yatra is typical garment exporter. one such importer sourcing for be tacked firmly to withstand all pulls and pushes during Trend for School normal school day, fabric should have anti bacterial the Spanish and French market. On the other hand, private Uniforms slowly treatment to avoid stink due to perspiration.” schools give direct contracts growing in the US With years of experience in the garment industry and and that is very niche and The US is the new kid on the manufacturing through a large base of dedicating vendors, relatively small market, bulk bloc as far as school uniforms the team at Youniform has exposure to international business is through importers. are concerned. Though the parameters in quality and sizing. “We use anthropometric A trouser with an embroidered debate for and against techniques to ensure that all children get a well fitting logo to Europe would be introducing school uniforms is a uniform set. In fact, we offer size sets on the same lines around FOB Euro 3.5-Euro 4. perennial one, with the as leading kids wear brands like Lilliput and Benetton,” Another growing market for administration reluctant to push says Harminder. Being a price sensitive market the pricing school uniforms is Turkey for the same, the country is of uniform differs from school to school and is generally which according to expert slowly getting into the uniform set by school authorities with suppliers only expected to estimations has a market worth mode. Industry estimates say comply with the standard defined. around $ 3.3 billion. that in 2008 the school uniform As off now the company is working only with Indian schools, market in the US was worth Advantage India… around $ 2.1 billion. Advocates of but they have already started discussion with some private According to industry watchers school policies that require schools in select international markets. “Our intention is this is the right time for Indian students to dress to a common to make Youniform a Rs. 100 crore plus business in next exporters to make a bid for this standard say these policies 4-5 years,” concludes Harminder. segment as many current decrease violence and increase situations are working in its academic performance of

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students who no longer have to followed suit, such as New York worry about being ostracized City, San Antonio, Miami, and Opportunities exist in Local Market over their choice of wardrobe. Chicago. Other upcoming About one in four public markets for school uniforms for School Uniforms elementary schools and one in include Houston, Augusta, GA, eight public middle and high Phoenix, Louisville, KY, While the Top 5 countries for school uniforms are the UK, schools in the USA today have Memphis, Texas and Europe, Japan, Australia and China, India is fast emerging policies dictating what a student Philadelphia. as a potential market for organized players. India has wears to school. While there are many reasons to traditionally had a culture of school uniforms, though very While private schools in the US adopt school uniforms like – little thought has gone into the presentation and first imported the British reduction in peer pressure, manufacturing of the same. But things are set to change tradition of student uniforms to increase in school pride and as players wake up to the potential of this huge market mark a student’s social status, team spirit, focus more to which is estimated to be worth around Rs. 10,000 to urban public schools began to learning, assists in discipline 12,000 crores. Today there are an estimated 55 million adopt uniforms only in the late problems, creates a more work- private school-going students and another 172 million in 1980s to reduce social pressure like atmosphere, less public schools requiring around 5 million T-shirts and 1 from fashion-savvy students. distractions and less expensive, million sweatshirts/tracksuits in a year, apart from the The idea spread to suburban the most fundamental and regular demand for formal shirts, trousers/shorts, skirts and rural schools when strong argument against school and blazers/coats. President Clinton in 1996 said uniforms is that it hampers uniforms make schools more freedom of expression and While internationally, there are a number of school uniform orderly. The second impetus inhibits individuality. However, brands besides retailers who have extended their brands came with President Bush’s “No the positive voices are growing to include these products, the India school uniform market Child Left Behind Act of 2001”. stronger and a NPD School is captured by small contractors working with individual Retailers like Kmart swept into Uniform Study reports that schools. But with the advent of new-age international action. “We think uniform households purchasing school schools which are opening up across the country and the policies will be closely tied to uniforms generally spent less on increased awareness of quality and branded apparel, a this program as it is children’s school clothes than huge opportunity has emerged for potential players. implemented and as the households buying clothing for While S. Kumar’s is among the first to look at this category correlation is made between children who attend schools seriously, in a unique initiative Mafatlal Fabrics is promoting uniform policies and with no dress codes ($ 103.50 their products directly at school level along with local successful schools,” notes a versus $ 184.60). Further, retailers and tailors/converters. They are appointing school spokeswoman for Kmart. families in which a child wears a uniform dealers all over the country and organizing school uniform are generally Even before the political debate presentations & seminars for school authorities to educate favourable about school uniform started, The Long Beach Unified the importance of school uniforms and the quality policies. Over half believe that School District in California was parameter. Using 3-D computer presentation with more besides saving money on one of the first major school than 100 patterns & designs with the support of more districts in the country to clothes, their children are more focused on learning. than 5000 designs in shirting and more than 200 designs implement mandatory school and sets in suiting, the company is also ready to help uniforms for its students in Major players in the school schools in development of designs & patterns for uniforms. 1994. In this district, uniforms uniform market in the US are are required in kindergarten Dickies, Army Air Force The industry needs to look at the segment as a new through 8th grade in all of the Exchange Stores (AAFES), business opportunity creating work both international and elementary and middle schools. French Toast, JCPenney, in India…a beginning made now will lead to bigger volumes Since then many other large and Elderwear, Cherokee by in the future. small school districts have classroom, Kmart to name a few.

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‘SUSTAINABLE’ MARIKO OF NOIDA ADDS RESORT LINE ade By India, a Noida-based export company has expanded its AS A COMPLETE PACKAGE FOR THE BEACH Mcapacity by adding 160 stitching machines in the past few months. The company is also in the process of setting up Differentiation in product and approach to an in-house fabric and garment testing lab. business is spelling growth for innovative Pawan Ojha, MD, Made By India told companies; Mariko is definitely one of them. Apparel Online, “We have invested Rs. 3 The Noida-based exporter has in recent past crores in last few months for our expansion initiated steps in sustainable efforts from getting and now our total production capacity is two GOTS certification to implementing systems that lakh pieces per months. We have also reduce carbon footprints. Among its latest initiatives in this direction is using only ‘PVC’ free sequins and embroidery material. Also instead of using polyester based labels, the ‘Made By India’ invests Rs. 3 crore company is using only cotton tape. “No buyer to enhance capacities, also goes in has asked us to specifically use these for Fair Trade Certification environment-friendly accessories, but we are keen to do our bit in this direction. Contrary to improved our supplier base. Now there are what people think, there is no major cost special job workers who work exclusively for difference in using environment-friendly us.” The company, which is witnessing accessories and they are available with a number consistent growth, is manufacturing of accessory suppliers today,” says Uday children’s wear, knitwear and ladies Sehgal, Director, Mariko. wear for exports to the US, Europe and For its home furnishing division, Mariko has has proved to be a hit package and Mariko has Canadian markets. started vacuum packing to save on transportation already done 3 orders for the European market. Capacity expansion became necessary as the needed to ship the goods. Now instead of 4 Priced at around Euro 25, the set is all made company has added new buyers and cushions they are packing 8 cushions into a single in-house with only the towels being outsourced. importers to its client list who supply to big carton. “We have achieved two critical targets The company is using its strength in screen brands all over the world. To improve quality by this one action – firstly, we are cutting down printing to give 8 print designs in 5 colour ways. and keep check on rejections the company on carbon footprints and secondly, reducing the “We are receiving good demand and to meet is also establishing a fabric and garment cost on transportation by 50%,” says Uday. the requirement we are adding 50 more testing lab. On the demand of few buyers, Nearly 8 months ago, the company launched a machines to our current capacity specifically for ‘Made By India’ has also gone in for Fair new line of resort wear which consisted of 6 the bikinis,” says Uday. Going forward the next Trade certification. Pawan is quite sure for items – bags, pareos, bikinis, tunics, towels and expansion is into lingerie, which is a natural good business in coming months. beach slippers – all in one print design. The same progression after beachwear.

Dastkari Niryat: New manufacturing unit in Manesar with 200 machines

Delhi-based export firm Dastkari Niryat is going in for major expansion. The company is setting up a new manufacturing unit in Manesar (Haryana), anticipating more business in the coming years. “The new factory is being constructed on 1200 square yards and we are targeting operations by the end of this year,” says Deepak Sood, Partner, Dastkari Niryat. The unit will house 200 machines, taking the production capacity of the company to 60,000 pieces per months. The company has a wide product range to offer buyers, both in knits and woven and with 25% of its production still coming from job workers there is great emphasis on ensuring that no compliance norm is violated. “With each passing day compliance is becoming more important so we are working diligently in this area, for this we are in discussion with Sedex, the Supplier Ethical Data Exchange to certify and monitor our units,” says Deepak. Sedex is a membership organization for businesses committed to continuous improvement of the ethical performance of their supply chains.

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Laguna Clothing Expands Opens up a new unit in Seegekote Village, Kanakapura, Karnataka

The new unit will employ 3000 people including 2700 operators and house 1000 sewing machines

Among the first few companies instituted with high-end value added shirts for premium brands 100% FDI, Laguna Clothing, the Bangalore- like Hugo Boss Banana Republic, Saks Fifth based shirt manufacturing giant with a turnover Avenue and Charles Tyrwhitt with average of Rs. 120 crores has just commenced prices 2-3 times more than the normal Indian operations at a new factory in Seegekote shirt price, and lastly it is a 100% Foreign Village, about 7 km from Kanakpura Direct Investment (FDI)”. The company plans town in Karnataka. Built in an area of to reach a capacity of 15,000 shirts a day by 110,000 sq. ft., this new initiative would 2011. “At full throttle, the unit will produce directly surge up the capacity of the company 30,000 shirts a day,” adds Ghose. to 5 million shirts a year, an increment of The new unit will employ 3000 people including 150%, with modest projections to take the 2700 operators and house 1000 sewing company turnover to Rs. 300 crore, by machines of which 30% are special purpose 2012-13. The company will produce high-end with folders, cutters, attachments and feeding formal shirts at the new location in collaboration devices. “We have little variability in our with its partners – Italian mill Gruppo Tessile product, hence we have automated a major Monti SPA and French – Mauritian textile part of our work stations,” added Sarbajit. A manufacturer Aquerelle, a part of CIEL Textiles total of 250 million has been invested in the which is already producing 10 million metres unit. The parts preparation section of the of fabric and 24 million garments every year. factory is modular while for the main sewing Speaking on the occasion, Arnaud Dalais, operations, the company has chosen the Group Chairman of the CIEL Group (parent conventional assembly line. company of Aquarelle International) said, Talking about the labour development and “Laguna Clothing leverages the strength of training facility at the unit Sarbajit informed, both group companies – that of world class “Labour is difficult to get in Bangalore city but fabric resource as well as shirt making here at the suburbs, a large population is capabilities to produce premium shirts from unemployed. So, not only getting labour is India, set to meet the needs of top global easier but they can be easily trained as well. retailers and brands”. We have the state-of-the-art operator To this added D. Manuel Monti, Chairman training module for 1.5 months followed by of Tessitura Monti India Pvt. Ltd., “The on-the-job training for another 1.5 months launch of our new plant in India reinforces our wherein the trainees will learn multiple skills vision to produce internationally competitive of 4-5 main operations. premium products. At the same time, our Laguna Clothing’s new manufacturing plant is larger purpose, keeping in mind the policy of also special as it has provisions for rainwater the Government of Karnataka, is to contribute harvesting, recycling of water and regeneration in a small way, to the development of the rural of steam. It also houses crèche and cafeteria economy by providing sustainable employment.” and provides medical facilities attached to the Informing about the new initiative, Sarbajit local hospital. The unit is expected to become Ghose, Executive Director, Laguna Clothing a “benchmark facility” in India, and has been said, “The new unit is special in three distinct designed and built to enable high efficiency, ways. Firstly, it is the first major intervention quality and delivery performance, comparable in Rural Karnataka. Secondly, it will produce to the best in the world.

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We are like rolling stones, which never gathers strengthened with an addition of 3 new moss,” says Anil Buchasia, Director, Amrit machines. Working as a consortium involving Exports. Indeed the progressive Kolkata-based small factories in interior villages, the company exporter of workwear is constantly upgrading has added a few more units to its folds adding its facilities and capacities to become a another 10% capacity to its production. comprehensive solution for buyers of workwear In a commitment to become completely both in soft and hard products. In a recent vertically integrated, the company has also upgradation of infrastructure, the company has begun construction of a processing house for installed a new cutting machine from FK knitted fabrics on the outskirts of Kolkata. Systema, Italy. The machine will support small “Though the exact capacities and other quantity business, which is cumbersome to technical details are still in the planning cut by hand, while the bulk cutting will stage, we wanted the building to be ready by continue manually, informs Anil. the time we finalized the machines,” said Anil. Besides this, the company has invested in two Initially the company intends to process only Shima Seiki Striker flat knit machines for knitted fabric/garments but going forward sweaters, an addition to the workwear the processing unit will be expanded into AMRIT EXPORTS, KOLKATA collection already being manufactured at Amrit wovens too. ADDS CUTTING MACHINE‘‘ FOR Exports. The embroidery section has also been SMALL QUANTITY BUSINESS

Bittoo Overseas, Delhi Starts Working for Fiji Shirt specialist Mccoy Clothing, Chennai Island invests in new denim plant With buyers in traditional markets slowing down sourcing in the last two years, exporters are pecializing in casual fashion shirts, Mccoy increasingly looking at developing new markets Clothing, Chennai has recently invested to enhance exports. In the process many in machines for jean manufacturing. To relatively unexplored markets are emerging as Sstart with one line of 65 machines have potential importers. Working in this direction, been installed with specialized machines coming Delhi-based exporter Bittoo Overseas, has from Vibemac. The production capacity is targeted successfully tapped a few buyers of Fiji Island. at 1000 jeans per day. Another line on similar The company has thoroughly studied the culture structure will be installed by March 2011. To start and lifestyle of this small island to penetrate off with, the bottoms production is mainly for the market. “We have made contacts with three Bogner, Germany, a high-end brand, in the buyers from the island and based on their international market and VF Brands in the domestic feedback and our reading of the taste of the retail. Currently, the company is having 650 people, we have created a sample collection machines dedicated to shirts. with use of hand block printing,” says Ashwani A design-driven company, Mccoy Clothing has in- Mongia, Director, Bittoo Overseas. house facilities for processing, which is considered With sampling almost complete, the company one of its biggest strengths. “We have been in the business for the last 12 is hopeful that by the end of November the years and have created a niche in washes, garment dyeing and garment process of export to the country will begin. “If printing, so we felt that by leveraging this edge we can also create a positioning our efforts succeed, we will get orders of 2.5 in the jeans market, which is also driven by processing techniques,” reasons to 3 lakh dollars per session,” informs Ashwani. Mario D’Souza, Partner, Mccoy Clothing. The company also has in-house Bittoo Overseas is into the manufacturing and facilities for embroidery and spray wash. export of women wear, so skirts, dresses and With a current capacity of 1.2 lakh pieces per month, the company is exporting blouses will be the focus products for Fiji also. 85% of its production in ladies and men’s fashion shirts to brands like Esprit, Manufacturing only woven garments, the Tom Taylor, S.Oliver, Quick Silver, Bogner to name a few. “We have a current company’s monthly capacity is 70,000 pieces turnover of Rs. 50 crore and in the first year of running the bottom unit we from its own in-house facilities. are confident of adding another Rs. 8 crore to our top line,” says D’Souza. For the second year, the expectation from the new line is Rs. 12 crore.

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INDIACANVAS

TEXTILE MINISTRY ANNOUNCES SCHEME FOR INTEGRATED SKILL DEVELOPMENT The shortage of skilled labour in the industry today is acting as a major business constraint, with exporters seeking to engage consultants to train manpower for their units. To combat this problem the Textile Ministry has recently launched a new integrated skill development scheme for the Textiles & Apparel Sector, including Jute & Handicrafts. The scheme envisages an investment of Rs. 272 crore and a physical target of training 2.56 lakh persons in two years.

he initiative to be Weavers Service Centres, Indian implemented on 2nd Institutes of Handloom The proposed scheme October 2010 will cover Technology, Textile Research T is empanelled with two basic training, skill upgradation, Associations, Apparel Training broad components: advanced training in emerging and Design Centres, etc. Only technologies, training of 0.36 lakh persons are projected Component 1 – Under this trainers, retraining and for training through PPP mode component, the training institutes managerial skill, all based on with the help of Industry under the Ministry of Textiles like industry requirements. Though Associations, NGOs, and power loom and weaver’s service many details have yet to be Agencies with the requisite centre’s, apparel training and finalized, IL&FS have been expertise in conducting large design centre’s etc. would be identified as the nodal agency scale training programmes. The utilized for providing training. for implementation of the strategy is to leverage on the Further the institutes shall be scheme. “This new scheme is in existing infrastructure and required to enter into partnership line with the policy substantial experience of all with industry for part funding as announcement of the stakeholders by ensuring their well as designing of the courses. Government, in the current active participation from the The institutes can tie up with Five-Year-Plan for skill design to the implementation SPV’s of the Textile Parks created development of 30 lakh persons stages of the project. Based under SITP scheme; SPV’s of the in 5 years. In the National Skill upon the performance, the power loom mega clusters; Development Policy, a sector scheme will be scaled up in the industry associations such as target of training 100 lakh subsequent three years to CITI, SIMA, FICCI, etc. and the persons by the year 2022 in the meet the targets. export promotion councils. The Government will meet 75% Textile Sector has been fixed,” The targets for training have of the total cost of the project said Dayanidhi Maran, Union been set based on funds and balance would be met from Textiles Minister on allocated and do not reflect any fee/industry contribution. The announcing the scheme. estimations for how much average cost per trainee (for the In the scheme outlay of Rs. 272 workforce will be required by the Dayanidhi Government) to be borne Maran, crore, Government contribution industry in the next two years. through the scheme would be flanked by will be Rs. 229 crore. Of the 2.56 Currently the Textiles Industry approximately Rs. 7,300. Rita Menon lakh workers targeted to be in India provides direct and trained, a majority will be trained employment to 35 million persons Component 2 – In this Panabaaka component, the Ministry of Lakshmi at through Institutions under the and indirect employment to the press Ministry of Textiles, such as another 47 million. Textiles would operate the meet scheme in a PPP (Public Private Partnership) mode with the industry associations, established NGOs and Agencies with the requisite expertise in conducting large scale training programs. The implementing agency would be required to formulate a comprehensive project clearly highlighting targets, training methodology, assessment and certification, etc. Each of such projects shall target 2500 persons over a period of 5 years; and 75% of the cost of the project could be funded.

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INDIACANVAS

AEPC SEMINAR ENDORSES COMMON CODE OF CONDUCT HIGHLIGHTS PRODUCTIVITY AND COMPLIANCE CONCERNS In its continued effort to keep the industry abreast with latest trends in production and compliance, AEPC is conducting a series of seminars in all apparel clusters of India with focus on issues of social compliance, factory improvement, factory capacity building and productivity enhancement in apparel manufacturing. With speakers including Anil Sahai, MD – T Group; Lakshmi Menon Bhatia, Director – GAP; Rajesh Bheda; and Roger Thomas presenting their opinions on the above causes, it was a motivating and interactive session at the Gurgaon venue that brought forth many questions from the audience leading the seminar into a reflective mode.

ocusing on the 3 key social and environmental with cost reduction on the floor. opportunities of compliance mechanism in the The audience interaction F productivity, quality and supply chain. For this a common session mediated by Praveen human development in the compliance code is being Nayyar, AEPC’s Senior Vice- apparel sector, Rajesh Bheda formulated which hopefully will Chairman saw a lot of highlighted in his presentation be a national code and eventually participation on issues of the how improvement in is expected to be internationally necessity of overtime, child productivity can lead to overall recognized. He spoke of the labour and shortages of labour, contentment among the workers implementation of the initiative leading to very intense as well as the staff, emphasizing and the vision behind this discussions. The AEPC officials that the present incentive program. “It has become opined that a common system motivates the worker to imperative for the garment compliance code will assure that work longer instead of faster industry to follow a common the buyers do not ask for more if and smarter. Redefining the code of conduct to create an the factory has implemented HR’s role from simply being a image in the international arena these codes. The initial record keeper to being a good that we are a labour-friendly investment for any SME will be listener for the workers, he industry,” said Anil. approximately Rs. 50,000 but the further explained how the problems of absenteeism and turnover can be reduced to a great extent by just listening to the operator’s problems. Moving on to issues outside the floor, Lakshmi Menon Bhatia talked of a number of global trends in apparel manufacturing which have taken a toll on the labourers. Talking of the fast changing global market and its strong after-effects, she emphasized how contract labour will soon become a nightmare for Finally moving back to returns will hugely benefit them Exporters at the Indian apparel industry if increasing productivity on the in the long-run felt the officials. the AEPC seminar the issue is not handled floor, Roger Thomas observed “These seminars are very listening very properly. “Shortage of labour is a how fabric can be saved in any educative for small exporters keenly as reality which is a great Lakshmi factory just by paying close who are not yet compliant,” said opportunity for us to change the Menon Bhatia, attention to a number of factors HKL Magu, MD, Jyoti Director – GAP way we work. Instead of in the cutting and sewing room. Apparels. He emphasized that addresses the bringing the workers to the Emphasizing on lean AEPC is doing a lot to educate audience industry, the industry should go manufacturing he brought to the industry and if people adopt where the workers are. Many light a number of issues on the the learning, they will definitely Indian states which have a rich floor that go unnoticed but if benefit. “The Government resource of labour, are being still taken care of can substantially wants even the smaller unexplored,” she further added. reduce the company costs. factories to be socially and The eloquent Anil Sahai gave an Thus the entire seminar starting environmentally compliant; informative presentation on from productivity enhancement, hence it is giving grants to ‘Disha’ which is being undertaken going through global trends and educate them,” he concluded. by AEPC for strengthening the social compliances finally ended

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TEXTILEUPDATE ADVANCING OPTIONS IN KNITTED FABRICS SILK BECOMES A VIABLE PREPOSITION The world produces over 17 million tonnes of knitted textiles and apparel – representing one-third of the global textile market. The output is forecast to grow by 25% over the next 10 years, reaching more than 21 million tonnes. With such a huge scope of growth, the knitting industry is striving hard for new developments in knitted fabrics.

he scope of application Leading Italian manufacturer of fabrics are being used mostly for the knitting industry warp and weft knitted fabrics by the automotive industry for T is fast increasing and SITIP SpA Industrie Tessili, filters, etc. from the domain of casual has introduced Acqua Zero fashion the segment is getting range of ‘non-wetting’ fabrics Buyers’ Demand in into more unconventional areas. at recently held Outdoor Knitted Fabrics In fact, designers are show in Germany. Acqua Zero The technological advances are discovering that knitted goods non-wetting fabrics are said to providing producers with the now offer more scope in couture be durable and unique in that flexibility to offer small than ever before. Even industrial they have inherent stretch but bespoke, customised orders and protective wear can be a can still retain its water tailored to specific customer very promising segment for repellency over long periods requirements at competitive knitted fabric industry after its of time. Best known for its prices. Says Amit Aneja, a wide use in sportswear where warp knitted fabrics, SITIP Textile Technologist catering to certain added nanotechnology also has the capacity to the Indian mills and buying functionalities have been produce approximately 100,000 offices, “Buyers are now asking engineered into the garment for kg of circular knitted fabrics for basic knits with lot of quick dry and breathability, per month. different fibre blends, like which is especially important Though much research is being cotton/modal, modal/lycra, with sportswear. A new wave of done to improve performance viscose/lycra, etc. Viscose fibre nanotechnology allows knitted of knitted fabric, the technical is very much in demand and lot clothes to resist spills and textile industry is largely of buyers are asking for 100% wrinkles, and wear longer depending on woven and viscose and viscose/cotton between washes. nonwoven fabrics; knitted blended fabric.”

Knitted fabric with Cotton viscose Knitted fabric with Mercury's gold finish + biowash finish blended knitted fabric softner finish Heat set knitted fabric

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Amit Aneja Ramesh Menon Tajinder Sachdeva Sanjeev Sood

Reeccha Dhawan, Trendy Finishes and Taiwan. According to strength and feel,” says Roy. The Merchandiser (knits/woven/ Tajinder Sachdeva, MD, mechanical characteristics of According to Amit, buyers are ladies/kids), New Times says Mercury Fabrics, there are a knitted silk fabrics are prepared getting very particular on the that basically textures are in for very few knit manufacturers in by using salt-shrunk, fibre- finish of the fabric, they are knitted fabrics. What is really India, barring a few in dispersed and resin-treated silk asking for Bio wash Finish, Gold going strong with major brands Ahmedabad who can handle yarns which are determined Finish (more smooth surface are 100% viscose single jersey based on the Kawabata area) with less pilling on the printed knits so the exporters 110-150 gsm, 100% cotton single Evaluation System for Fabrics fabrics. “Carbonizing is hot; anti are importing the same. jersey 110-150 gsm, 100% (KES-FB) which is commonly microbial is also getting popular Anticipating higher demands, viscose heather single jersey used to measure fabric’s for inner wear,” says Ramesh Tajinder is all set to get into 110-140 gsm, 100% cotton mechanical behaviours related Menon of DMI, a well known manufacturing of printed organic/non organic slub, 60% to hand, meaning-knitted fabrics fabric importing company. knitted fabrics. “I aim to cotton 40% modal single jersey. made from the processed silk manufacture printed spandex “Waffle fabrics for coming fall Giving her feedback on latest yarns are flexible and elastic, fabric which has huge demand season is really hot along with finishes in knitted fabrics have a higher resilience, and are in the international market but yarn dyed jersey is evergreen Reeccha says, faded look is very soft with stretching properties. much in, which means pigment great dearth of quality in auto-loom and feeder stripe Constructions like plain jersey, over dyed garment with enzyme suppliers. From day one, the striper,” states Reeccha. waffle, interlocks, jacquard and wash are popular with all ages. unit has been designed to Triburg dealing with two of the pique are all being done to knit Some acid washes and also produce printed fabrics,” avows biggest importers in the US for silk fabrics. The lighter silk knits some burnout looks are very Tajinder, producing 250 tonnes menswear has received bulk of different structures cater to a much in demand that is using of knitted fabric per month and booking for varied knitted wide range of both men’s and very bright colours initially, and now going for added capacity fabric from the buyers. Shares women’s wear. In spite of being then after the burnout washing which would produce 350-360 Sanjay Shukla, Head light and sheer, these knits are it to make it faded. Sublimation tonnes of fabric per month. Knitted Fabric Division, comfortable, luxurious and prints on knits are in for ladies, Triburg, “In menswear we are durable. The heavy weight potassium effect and Swede Knitted Options working on 80/20 cotton/poly jacquard knits cater to the finish across various weights of in Silk basic fleece, 100% cotton basic upholstery and furnishings fabrics are going strong. Organic interlock, 100% cotton flatback Cotton and wool blended with category because of its abrasion fleece material and distressed rib and 60/40 cotton/rayon other yarns have so far been the and pilling resistance. intimate and mechanical blend look is in along with thermo- main stay of knitting but now chromatic material in fleece and silk is being tried. Central Silk The competition comes from the fabrics.” Talking about giving Chinese silk industry, which has variety to fancy fabrics in knits jersey. Sherpa qualities and faux Technological Research Institute fur qualities are some new (CSTRI), a research wing of been in this area for quite some he adds, “Single dyed cotton/ time, while for India it is a developments in knits. Central Silk Board, Bangalore is poly fabrics with stripes/ relatively new area, however Roy “Softness in menswear fabrics a leader for such efforts. Silk jacquards, light weight fleece, feels that India has the advantage knitting is a special area slubs in different textures with sueding softener wash are of access to raw material and demanding expertise. “Knitted are being given.” some of the great developments technologically advanced fabrics have tremendous As per Vipin Sharma, Fabric in knits and giving tough knitting sector along with technological advantages over Manager, VF Asia, heavy bust competition to China these cottage sector which handles the woven fabrics in speed of fleece and indigo washed look is days,” says Sanjay. smaller volumes. Sanjeev Sood production, easy care and in for knitted fabric. Compact of AVS Fabrics, a Gurgaon- India Weak in Printed comfort. It is adaptable to all fabrics in 30s-40s with little based importer whose major types of end uses viz. casuals, stiffer construction are also Knitted Fabrics market for imports is China, gaining popularity. “Nylons with Prints on knitted fabric is also sportswear, winter wear as well suggests that India should wicking properties are in great getting popular, however India is as formal wear,” shares Subrata explore the possibilities in the demand and cordura yarn for weak in printed knitted fabric so Roy, Director (I/C), CSTRI. heavy weight varieties, especially durable knitted fabric is being a lot of converters are getting “A lot of tests have been done on the Jacquard knits, as Chinese tried,” shares Vipin. the printed knits from China silk knitted fabric to ensure its are into light weight knits.

AUGUST 16-31, 2010 ApparelOnline 37 CMYK

TEXTILEUPDATE PARADIGM SHIFT IN TEXTILE CHEMICALS …MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE WITH MINIMUM ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINT The challenge for chemical companies today lies in bringing a stream of new and improved value-added products into the market in order to strengthen existing product lines, as the innovations in finishing will only be able to open up new markets and new horizons for the textile industry. While functional finishes like water and oil repellents, flame retardants, handle modifiers and specialty softeners are being manufactured by most of the chemical companies, there is urgency to constantly improve their performance properties for better results. Environment-friendly, biodegradable, comfort or health- oriented products in the field of auxiliaries and finishing chemicals are gaining importance.

ith sustainability being selecting fabrics, but today’s Huntsman TE currently spends the current concern, consumer also considers the about 5% of the total sales W the question remains ecological effects of producing earnings for R&D and much of as to how far the industry can go these fabrics.” these R&D efforts centered around chemical products to achieve measurable Similar views came from Rohit featuring environmental and improvements in sustainability Khanna, Regional Sales Head economical benefits. These with the existing choices of – South Asia and Middle East, dyestuffs and chemicals. Aware Huntsman, “At Huntsman we products are designed to help of this critical question, chemical strive to offer every product and users reduce water and companies are striving to make process with a lower energy consumption by sustainable products mostly environmental impact as 30-40% during textile targeted at reduction of energy, opportunity lies in the widely processing. They also help water consumption and effluent, discussed issue of greener sellers of end apparel products which is the biggest concern manufacturing. Our recently to meet their consumers’ of the textile industry. Says launched High IQ finishes are expectation for a reduced Dr. Milind Vaidya, Commercial built to last and save water and environmental footprint. Leader, Textiles Dow Corning, energy during the garment’s Some of the most innovative and India, “Fashion and comfort still lifetime for a clearly lower environment-friendly finishes remains the main drivers for environmental impact.” have been done for denim fabric

Dow Corning’s patented powder technology The demand for WFF (Woven Functional Fabrics) is allows processors to combine certain stages in steeply rising especially for protective wear, denim processing like fading & finishing into single sleeping bags, tents and school uniforms step, saving both resources and time

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TEXTILEUPDATE

which has witnessed the caustic and acid and thereby this would be replacing the maximum innovations in reducing the effluent load and conventional bulletproof material finishes to give it diverse look the TDS levels informs, Hitesh Kevlar with ordinary fabric and feel. The traditional method Wadher, AM-Garment treated with bulletproof finish of processing and finishing Technology, Resil Chemicals, making it as effective as Kevlar. denim to make it soft and which claims to be one of Asia’s In this direction, American and wearable consists of many largest processors of silicones Chinese researchers have Rohit Khanna, Regional Sales separate stages, all requiring for textiles and has expanded recently developed a new Head, South Asia and Middle large amounts of water and its product range to cover technique that uses a regular East, Huntsman – “We strive energy. These stages include finishing, pre-treatment and cotton T-shirt to make a hard but to offer every product and removing the size material from speciality processes. The flexible, more comfortable and process with a lower warp yarns in woven fabrics, company enjoys consultant lightweight bulletproof vests. To environmental impact as using enzymes to get a faded status in textile finishing and create this revolutionary opportunity lies in greener manufacturing.” look, bleaching to make it has a fully dedicated Application product, the researchers dipped whiter and lighter, dyeing to Research Centre (ARC), for the cotton T-shirt into a boron change the colour of the fabric, ongoing R&D. “These are the solution enriched with nickel and treating the fabric with products for the immediate and heated to 1160°C. The chemicals and/or softeners to future which will change the treated fabric retained the light- impart attributes such as entire concept of processing,” weight and flexible properties of wrinkle resistance, stain comments Hitesh. cotton while taking on the resistance, and UV protection. Certainly saving of resources toughness and rigidity of the However, chemical companies contributes more than the baron solution at the nanoscale. are getting newer technology to savings of dyes and chemicals According to Rohit Khanna the reduce the burden on our cost and chemical companies demand for Woven Functional natural resources. Dow are determinately moving in that Fabrics (WFF) especially with Corning’s patented powder direction. DyStar practices protective wear for military and technology allows processors to “Resource Management” and paramilitary forces is steeply combine certain stages such as helps its customers in rising. There is also a demand fading and finishing into a single minimizing their total process for waterproofing and insect Rajesh Balakrishnan, MD, step, saving resources as well as cost. “Saving of energy and repellent finishes for tents, DyStar India –“Saving of time – thus offering solutions to water is not restricted to one sleeping bags and nets. “Even energy and water is not several environmental product, but to the entire antimicrobials for innerwear are restricted to one product, but to challenges that confront process from pre-treatment to in demand in this segment. Stain the entire process from pre- industries. This innovative finishing. We market the repellents, for example for treatment to finishing.” powder-based technology products like scour/dye and school uniforms, are definitely a minimizes the need for water finish in one bath, (package future market,” remarks Rohit. and solvent, since it offers the offer), allowing the user to save For safe, effective and durable benefits of silicone in a dry form. water/energy and process time, protection in clothing, It also reduces the use of in turn allowing increase in Huntsman has recently biocides that are typically production,” affirms Rajesh introduced a new Flame required to maintain the stability Balakrishnan, Managing Retardant Finish. Pyrovatex® of the emulsion. “Leading Director, DyStar India. Exp which represents a new international apparel firms are generation of environmentally keen on incorporating this Functional Finishes safe flame retardant finishes for silicone technology into their Demand on Rise 100% polyester. Designed for manufacturing processes to Finishes can do wonders to an decorative fabrics, curtains, create textiles for their ordinary fabric from making upholstery and sun shades, this environmentally conscious them shiny or matt, soft or stiff finish is a phosphorous based customers,” says Dr. Vaidya. technology which provides to giving them performance Anjani Prasad, Head of Resil has come up with a properties. Today the direction optimal protection to people and property by delivering Textiles Chemicals, Clariant product called ‘Greenule’ which for finishes is not only on hand Chemical India – “Our USP is protection of the highest flame reduces the consumption of feel, fashion appeal and daily our product efficiency and retardant standards. water, energy and time. The application properties, but also ecological profile. Our product company has also launched an on how they can be used as a For stain repellence and soil packages help in achieving the enzymatic bio-scouring product substitute for specialized fibres release Huntsman has recently strict parameters required by which reduces the consumption with inherent functional launched a new product the market and controlling the of harmful chemicals like properties. The best example for specifically formulated for utility cost.

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TEXTILEUPDATE

cotton called Oleophobol® CP-C through noxious environmental agents produces good wrinkle which is the next generation oil, effects and dangerous UV recovery with improved tear water, and stain repellent finish radiation. It improves the strength and there is no change for cotton fibres, synthetics feeling and comfort when of fabric tone on finishing due to fibres and their blends. Liquids wearing the garment. transparent film formation,” bead up and roll off, and spills Huntsman product High IQ® points out Sunil Chari, Sunil Chari, Director, can be blotted up quickly with a has freshness effects in two Director, Rossari. Rossari Biotech – “Our clean, dry absorbent cloth. new varieties to better meet the For P/V and P/C suiting fabrics R&D centre is constantly Health & Wellness needs of today’s modern society. Rossari has launched Marvel innovating products and With High IQ® Freshness on bounce Liquid, an innovative processes to reduce Finishes Picking up demand, the wearer can actually micro silicone softener for pollution load, save water, There is a growing market for choose a scent to match his extraordinary bounciness and energy and cost.” health and wellness finishes mood, while High IQ® Active inner softness which is a enhancing quality of life. “There Freshness has built-in durable finish suitable for pad is a huge drive towards human antibacterial properties to and garment applications. For and environment-friendly protect the wearer. extremely soft and smooth textiles,” states Balakrishnan. handle on all kind of fabrics Clariant too has introduced DyStar was one of the first Rossari’s Rosil Feathertouch hygiene finishes in association companies to get its dyestuffs Liquid is a perfect product. Its with Sanitized brand. The approved to the GOTS standard micro silicone softener for company has introduced Easy for the specific use on organic providing outstanding surface Clean & Body Comfort Finish cotton. The low impact dyes softness and inner softness which helps easy removal of from DyStar meet the resembling to feather touch stains during laundry and demanding requirements of the effect on acrylic wool blend and better comfort properties to organic textile standard and fancy polyester feather yarn. the wearer. The company has provide the basis for achieving a also recently launched two DyStar new offer in cool touch wide range of shades by all new silver based antimicrobial finish is Evo Soft ELP and Evo application methods (exhaust products with high wash Fin PUS. Both the finishes Dr. Milind Vaidya, dyeing, continuous dyeing, cold provide cool and soft handle to Commercial Leader, Textiles durability informs Anjani pad batch dyeing and printing). cotton and its blend with Dow Corning, India – “Fashion Prasad, Head of Textiles and comfort still remains the DyStar has introduced some Chemicals, Clariant polyester. The wearer is more main drivers in fabrics, but very interesting health and Chemical India. comfortable and more relaxed hygiene related finishes claims the company. today’s consumer also In this category Resil has come including an anti-smell finish considers the ecological up with micro encapsulated In this segment, Clariant has called Evo Fresh CDL which is a effects of these fabrics.” fragrance finishes on garments launched Enhanced Strength second generation modified and fabrics to give the Improvement System (ETSI ß-cyclodextrin liquid product moisturising effect which system). This finish achieves a very suitable for finishing enhances wearer’s well being. high performance in anti process, stable bath with most wrinkling property and at the softeners and all resins with Finishes for Changing same time balances the better anti-smell effects. The Fabric’s Feel strength of the treated fabric, other product in this category is this finish is suitable for home Merely converting fibre into wellness finish called Evo Care textiles and apparels. With its fabric and then to a garment is AVS made of permanent Appretan Range of products, not enough today. The real value silicones and extracts from Clariant is creating novel addition is providing variety of aloe vera plant. This finish has effects on denim by giving soft ‘look & feel’ to the fabric. soft and comfortable handle, coatings, shine coatings and skin caring properties along Rossari Biotech has recently artificial leather look. with moisturising effect and introduced Drapesof BSV Paste, The chemical companies are anti-stress finish. a unique bodying agent with undoubtedly dedicated to Hitesh Wadher, AM- In wellness category there is stiff/hard body properties, researching and developing the Garment Technology, Resil anti-ageing finish Evo Care Vital applicable on all types of fabric. optimized solutions for a more Chemicals – “Our eco- which contains a combination of This product requires low sustainable planet while friendly products for the natural products and curing temperatures and allows retaining a clear focus on immediate future will combination of Vitamin E and F. no sticking on padding, mangles helping customers cut back on change the entire concept of It protects the human skin with good washing fastness. costs through ongoing process processing.” against premature ageing “Combination with cross-linking efficiency optimization.

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AUGUST 16-31, 2010 ApparelOnline 41 CMYK

INDIAN CARPET INDUSTRY ON A GROWTH PATH HANDMADE CARPETS STILL THE DRIVER The spotlight is back on the Indian carpet industry with the segment seeing good growth and projection of a 25% increase in exports in the current Financial Year. The recent endorsement by the US Department of Labor to the intense efforts being made by the Carpet Export Promotion Council to eradicated child labour by keeping the segment out of the recently released EO listing which unfortunately includes the garment industry as an abuser of child labour, has been a major boost to the industry. Today, the carpet industry is on a high and players are looking for substantial growth in the coming years.

ith a world carpet export registered an major strides will be made in the market share of increase of 22% to $ 3.60 coming months,” says an upbeat 30% in million owing to good orders Shiv Kumar Gupta, Executive handmade floor from US and Europe. Director-cum-Secretary, CEPC. coverings, India Apart from the US and Europe, “This is the right time for India ranksW number one as a producer the carpet industry is also with its very wide product offering and exporter of handmade carpets receiving good orders from the to increase business, as China, and other floor coverings both in Middle East and Latin America. Nepal and Pakistan – all terms of volume and value with The CEPC (Carpet Export competitors in the segment – are about 49% of total exports going Promotion Council) predicts a rise facing a lot of internal problems to the US alone, 21% to in exports of around 25% to at present. In fact, we are Germany and around 30% to the $ 650 million from $ 525 million expecting a lot of orders by Jan. rest of the world. An important for the year 2010-11. “Exports of 2011,” adds Sanjay Gupta, Rug segment in home fashion, the carpet from India have & Home, a Buying Agent industry is seeing growth despite consistently seen growth and with sourcing carpets from India. global slowdown and in the single global economic situation getting The steady growth of the carpet month of June 2010 India’s better we are very positive that industry has been ably supported

Hand tufted and shaggy carpets are popular from India A traditional design in carpet from Qaleen Alishan

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HOME FASHION FUTURE

by the CEPC, which has been playing a very proactive role in promoting the industry. One of its India’s biggest major activities in recent years Competitor… has been the representation of the Indian Carpet Industry in India Iran also registers growth and abroad particularly before the The growth in the carpet US Government to apprise the US export sector is just not Government was regarding registered by India. Iran, welfare measures for carpet the master of Persian rugs weavers and steps taken for with intricate designs and elimination of child labour in the one of our biggest carpet industry. The very fact that competitors, has also the council has been successful in Qamaruddin Ansari, MD, Sunil Bazaz, MD, Azimullah Carpets, Bhadohi Qaleen Alishan, New Delhi recorded a growth of 37% keeping the industry out of the in the export of hand- EO listing despite still having a woven carpets as against recorded 3.42% child labour, production cost has gone very However, the industry is not high and with shortage of labour, without its problem areas. “The the value of its last year speaks volumes for the concerted exports. The US is the effort to monitor and educate the it is very difficult to ensure timely major problems we are facing largest purchaser of industry on the harm that the delivery of these carpets,” says today are no different from other Iranian carpets, stigma could do to the trade, as Qamaruddin Ansari, MD, export industries like sharper also the conviction that convinced Azimullah Carpets, Bhadohi. prices offered by the buyers and registering $ 17 million worth of imports, during the DOL that the efforts are Azimullah Carpets is presently fluctuations in the exchange genuine and in the right direction. exporting to USA, Turkey and Gulf rate,” says Ansari. To bring in the first three months of The industry is confident that the countries. He adds that Shaggy fresh labour to a traditional craft, this year. development will provide a major carpets in woollen or polyester the industry has appealed to the boost to the industry. are the most moving product for Government to open weaving training centres as getting trained Today Indian carpets have built a the industry today. In fact, the weavers is one of the biggest reputation for exquisite designs, categories that recorded problems that the industry faces elegance, attractive colours and maximum growth last FY were today. Another area that needs workmanship. International buyers handmade synthetic carpets, Carpet Trends attention is designs. “We are like Ikea, Walmart, Carrefour, which have increased by more 2010 than 94%, followed by handmade mostly still working with traditional Metro, JCPenney, Pier 1, TJ Maxx z Plain, solid colour motifs and with increased to name a few are sourcing woollen carpets, rugs and competition we are now feeling carpets continue to mostly silk and woollen carpets handmade silk carpets. the need for design support to remain as the first from the country, but off late, One of the biggest strengths that make our collections more choice for the cotton, jute, bamboo, grass and the Indian carpet industry has is contemporary,” says Shanti Kumar, buyers worldwide. coir carpets are also gaining that it can manufacture all kinds Dugar Exports, Rajasthan. z Colours in the form of popularity, driven by increased of carpets. Most other countries rich vibrant plums, hues focus on sustainability. have specialized in only particular Not everyone agrees that Indian of blues and greens and Mainly centered on the regions of type. “India is much diversified in carpets need to get ‘contemporary’. aubergines are the Bhadohi, Agra, Jaipur and its product offering as compared “The designs produced by India latest hot favourites. Kashmir, the industry has seen a to any other countries having are liked by customers across the shift away from hand knotted carpet industry. Shaggy carpets world so there is no need for setting z Patterned floor carpets to more price-effective were initially offered only by Turkey up of design studios for carpets,” coverings mainly options. In fact, during the last but now India has emerged as the reasons Sanjay. He however stresses geometrical and few decades, hand-tufted carpets biggest exporter of shaggy carpets on the need to be price ‘right’. “The flowery are in. American market in which 90% of have emerged as one of the in the world. Recently, Rajasthan z Textures such as the buyers of carpets are youngsters major growth categories in has innovated a new kind of tweeds with dainty is very price-sensitive. These carpets and Panipat, already a carpet in which the base is made motifs and optional of wool and the motives made of customers are demanding transitional major home fashion centre has stylish borders are emerged as another noteworthy silk, this kind of carpet has designs in wool and silk, and for also a big hit in carpet manufacturing base. become a big hit in the American the low end segment the demand many markets. “Hand knotted carpets are slowly market,” shared Sunil Bazaz, is for all over loop rugs and moving out of the market as MD, Qaleen Alishan, New Delhi. carpets with prints,” adds Sanjay.

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EXPORTSTATISTICS

EU Import Analysis – Jan.-April 2010 EUROPEAN UNION REGISTERS DECLINE IN IMPORTS DURING JAN.-APRIL ’10 OF (-) 2.71% EXPORTS FROM INDIA ALSO DIP (-) 4.09%

hough retail sales in the exports dipped in value terms garments of 2.49%. The UVR of Euro 14.48 (per kg of European Union is by (-) 2.33%, though volumes average UVR was also fabric equivalent) as against Twitnessing an increase did increase 8.22%. The UVR down from Euro 9.63 (per Euro 13.71 last year. on a month to month basis, with for this segment under the kg of fabric equivalent) to The UVR for Pakistan in the clothing retail sales climbing 2% review period was Euro 2.99 Euro 8.89 (per kg of review period was just Euro in the UK, the impact is negated (per kg of fabric equivalent), fabric equivalent). 7.39 (per kg of fabric by the fact that consumer down from Euro 3.32 (per kg Vietnam witnessed declines equivalent), down from Euro confidence is at an all time low, of fabric equivalent) in the both in the value and 8.33 (per kg of fabric mostly due to EU’s debt crisis. same period last year. quantities of (-) 1.25% and equivalent) last year. The In the UK, the new Government In the meanwhile, the average (-) 6.54%, respectively. The country saw major decline in has already announced a series UVR for Indian apparel products from Vietnam are value of exports by (-) 10.32% of spending cuts and a possible exports during the defined however commanding better though volumes did see a rise in the VAT which is period was Euro 16.89 (per kg prices than last year with slight increase of 1.05%. expected to depress consumer of fabric equivalent), down spending further. The declining from Euro 17.42 (per kg of interest in purchasing non- fabric equivalent) last year. essential products is reflected EU GLOBAL APPAREL IMPORTS — JAN.-APRIL 2010 Interestingly, while the UVR in the downward trend in for knitted garments saw an TYPE OF Jan.-Apr. 2009 Jan.-Apr. 2010 % increase/decrease apparel imports by the EU increase from Euro 13.90 (per APPAREL Qty Value Qty Value Qty Value during the period Jan.-April ’10. kg of fabric equivalent) last During this period both WORLD year to Euro 14.09 (per kg of value and volume were down Knitted 721.05 8985.54 686.31 9006.06 -4.82 0.23 fabric equivalent) this year, by (-) 2.71% and (-) 6.77%, Woven 689.09 10766.98 625.23 10211.65 -9.27 -5.16 woven garments registered respectively. The UVR was Total 1410.14 19752.52 1311.54 19217.71 -6.99 -2.71 decline in UVR from Euro surprisingly marginally higher CHINA 21.56 (per kg of fabric at Euro 14.65 (per kg of fabric Knitted 275.86 3867.81 294.04 3778.55 6.59 -2.31 equivalent) to Euro 19.89 (per equivalent), last year the UVR Woven 344.26 5025.75 358.68 5032.38 4.19 0.13 kg of fabric equivalent). stood at Euro 14.01. Both Total 620.12 8893.56 652.72 8810.93 5.26 -0.93 During this period Indian knitted and woven category saw INDIA exports were down in both increase in UVR with knitted Knitted 52.14 724.55 49.43 696.46 -5.20 -3.88 value and volume of (-) 4.09% segment showing UVR of Euro and (-) 1.07%, respectively. Woven 44.41 957.54 46.09 916.78 3.78 -4.26 13.12 and woven garments Total 96.55 1682.09 95.52 1613.24 -1.07 -4.09 China during the review registering UVR of 16.33. BANGLADESH period Jan.-April ’10, In a year when prices are very Knitted 132.58 1178.05 139.21 1136.57 5.00 -3.52 witnessed a marginal downfall critical to determine where the Woven 60.15 676.99 66.61 693.83 10.74 2.49 in its shipment to the business is going, UVR of most Total 192.73 1855.04 205.82 1830.40 6.79 -1.33 European Union of (-) 0.93% in destinations took a beating. SRI LANKA value, however, the country However, among the 6 countries witnessed positive growth in Knitted 12.41 234.11 14.78 299.11 19.07 27.76 under review, two of them quantities of 5.26%. The Woven 61.55 204.18 66.61 199.43 8.22 -2.33 Vietnam and Sri Lanka saw average UVR were down from Total 73.96 438.29 81.39 498.53 10.04 13.75 positive movement in the UVR. PAKISTAN For Sri Lanka the knitted Euro 14.34 to Euro 13.50. Knitted 17.27 120.74 18.10 101.25 4.82 -16.14 segment has been the growth Bangladesh continued to Woven 21.34 200.85 20.91 187.16 -1.99 -6.82 driver with UVR being a very see a decline in its exports in Total 38.61 321.59 39.02 288.41 1.05 -10.32 high Euro 20.24 (per kg of fabric terms of value with (-) 1.33% VIETNAM equivalent). The segment downslide, though its volumes registered 27.76% growth in increased 6.79%. The Knitted 10.50 98.17 9.38 97.27 -10.69 -0.91 value and 19.07% increase in downslide in value was in the Woven 18.70 302.10 17.91 297.98 -4.22 -1.36 quantities. The woven segment knitted category while there Total 29.20 400.27 27.29 395.26 -6.54 -1.25 was less effective and was growth in woven Qty & Value in mn Kg & Euro

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EXPORTSTATISTICS

EU Import Analysis – Jan.-April 2010 Analyzing the item-wise value of imports by the EU from various countries in Jan.-April 2010, some key findings are:

„ The major losers during this period were trousers, ladies blouses, foundation garments, jackets & blazers and sweaters with (-) 25.18%, (-) 24.04%, (-) 22.92%, (-) 21.71% and (-) 19.44% decrease, respectively. All products imported by the EU continued to „ In China most categories registered negative growth. The three positive growth segments were suits/ensembles, ladies dresses and babies wear see a fall in value in the with 10.80%, 6.27% and 3.42% growth respectively. Some major losers defined period and not were trousers (-) 18.69%, ladies blouses (-) 16.64%, undergarments even one category could (-) 15.31% and jackets & blazers (-) 14.94%. register growth. This is For India, the gains were mostly negative with only two categories „ a clear indication that registering positive value increase – suits/ensembles with 13.53% rise and babies wear with 9.14% surge. The categories which saw maximum prices are dipping very decline were foundation garments with (-) 76.96% downfall, ladies sharply in the EU and blouses with (-) 21.41% decline and men’s shirts with (-) 14.92% dip. exporters have to be „ Bangladesh could record value gain in four products – undergarments prepared to work at with 90.92% increase, nightwear with 40.71% rise, foundation lower prices garments with 20.97% upswing and babies wear with 33.96% upsurge were the gainers… In all other products the decline is substantial with Percentage Value Imports of Two Categories by the EU jackets & blazers leading the downfall with (-) 51.46% decline. „ Exports from Vietnam were up in value in only one product – undergarments by 56.74%.The biggest losers were legwear, ladies skirts, babies wear and men’s shirts which were down (-) 54.80%, (-) 40.66%, (-) 37.81% and (-) 31.21%, respectively. „ For Sri Lanka, the major gainer was babies wear with 98.91% increase and major loser was sweaters with (-) 20.41% decline in value. Undergarments which are usually a strong category from the country also saw a decline of (-) 9.63%.

ITEM-WISE VALUE INCREASE IN APPAREL IMPORTS BY EU: JAN.-APRIL 2010 Exports to EU APPAREL TYPE Total Imports by EU China India Bangladesh Vietnam Sri Lanka

2009 2010 2009 2010 2009 2010 2009 2010 2009 2010 2009 2010

Babies Wear 767.99 735.77 542.00 560.53 67.97 74.19 40.15 53.78 5.99 3.73 11.04 21.97 Foundation Garments 546.97 421.60 304.95 272.73 6.30 1.45 7.46 9.03 15.28 11.09 43.04 43.05 Jackets & Blazers 875.58 685.46 506.64 430.94 13.77 11.29 8.36 4.06 23.49 18.69 2.55 3.29 Ladies Blouses 1,079.95 820.38 440.59 367.28 269.72 211.97 32.29 27.21 16.54 10.83 18.97 15.17 Ladies Dresses 1,136.65 1,096.88 608.93 647.11 179.14 176.49 19.29 20.81 8.55 8.13 13.08 10.70 Ladies Skirts 446.81 361.87 219.95 198.03 49.28 40.39 14.04 13.45 8.88 5.27 9.31 10.63 Legwear 483.46 463.29 186.98 182.51 5.98 5.23 0.71 0.55 2.30 1.04 6.25 5.82 Mens Shirts 2,215.05 1,869.91 750.20 719.34 274.23 233.31 286.69 267.01 70.39 48.42 15.60 19.66 Nightwear 1,106.19 895.44 590.20 526.09 120.39 103.37 33.41 47.00 14.15 11.87 47.79 56.35 Suits / Ensembles 117.04 117.07 64.25 71.19 4.27 4.85 2.02 1.82 0.83 0.84 1.28 1.73 Sweaters 3,338.99 2,689.91 1,951.73 1,838.87 81.34 70.82 400.50 382.68 32.08 28.35 26.75 21.29 Trousers 5,099.09 3,814.99 2,203.89 1,792.08 158.23 130.58 434.97 390.36 129.07 89.54 90.00 74.86 T-shirts 2,673.54 2,271.45 719.30 648.75 265.94 224.13 523.46 465.68 22.60 18.61 54.70 48.13 Undergarments 259.81 214.12 160.61 136.03 16.31 15.84 4.09 7.82 1.98 3.10 19.62 17.73 Value in mn Euro

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EXPORTSTATISTICS

EU Import Analysis – Jan.-April 2010 Analyzing the item-wise imports of the EU on quantities from various countries under review in Jan.-April 2010, some interesting facts that emerged are:

„ All other categories imported by the EU recorded a downfall. The major losers in quantities were trousers with (-) 20.90% decrease, ladies blouses with (-) 18.42% fall, suits/ensembles with (-) 18.63% decline, In terms of legwear with (-) 16% fall and suits/ensembles with (-) 12.82% downslide. quantities there „ In China ladies dresses, ladies skirts and babies wear saw maximum were increases in increase in quantities in the review period with 31.81%, 17.23% imports by the and 12.86% gains, respectively. The key losers were trousers with (-) 11.67% downslide, T-shirts with (-) 4.34% dip and suits/ensembles EU in only two with (-) 4.14 decline. products – ladies „ From India, three categories recorded quantity gains – ladies wear dresses of with 10.95% rise, ladies dresses with 5.46% increase and undergarments 12.46% and with 6.73% upswing. Surprisingly, ladies blouses, one of the strongest babies wear by a categories to the EU saw quantity decline of (-) 26.53%. Men’s shirts marginal 3.32% too saw a decline of (-) 19.12%. „ Bangladesh could record volume gain in many products, the three major being foundation garments, undergarments and nightwear with Percentage Quantity Imports of Two Categories by the EU 60.64%, 82.09% and 57.11% rise, respectively. The decline in jackets & blazers, legwear and suits/ensembles were noteworthy with (-) 47.36%, (-) 46.17% and (-) 13.31% declines, respectively. „ Exports from Vietnam were up in volumes only in undergarments with 78.63% gains. The biggest loser was legwear, which was down (-) 66.67%. „ For Sri Lanka, the major gainer on quantities were suits/ensembles, babies wear, men’s shirts and jackets & blazers with 95.66%, 95.45%, 49.12% and 27.76% increase, respectively. Major loss was recorded in sweaters and undergarments with (-) 10.09% decline and (-) 6.84% slide in quantities.

ITEM-WISE QUANTITY INCREASE IN APPAREL IMPORTS BY EU: JAN.-APRIL 2010 Exports to EU APPAREL TYPE Total Imports by EU China India Bangladesh Vietnam Sri Lanka

2009 2010 2009 2010 2009 2010 2009 2010 2009 2010 2009 2010

Babies Wear 47.35 48.92 34.05 38.43 4.03 4.48 3.45 4.87 0.32 0.23 0.77 1.50 Foundation Garments 16.61 15.10 11.73 12.81 0.08 0.03 0.32 0.51 0.30 0.27 0.85 0.86 Jackets & Blazers 40.06 34.86 27.61 26.64 0.65 0.53 0.87 0.46 1.47 1.16 0.18 0.23 Ladies Blouses 39.15 31.94 15.44 15.71 10.52 7.73 2.21 2.07 0.87 0.62 0.81 0.72 Ladies Dresses 38.43 43.22 20.71 27.30 6.08 6.41 1.59 2.01 0.53 0.48 0.75 0.66 Ladies Skirts 20.96 19.65 11.40 13.36 1.93 1.61 1.06 1.35 0.77 0.46 0.73 1.03 Legwear 64.49 54.17 25.95 28.81 0.58 0.57 0.15 0.08 0.23 0.08 0.53 0.48 Mens Shirts 130.64 120.07 44.95 50.48 16.27 13.16 29.23 30.13 4.31 3.17 0.73 1.09 Nightwear 93.31 83.28 52.14 54.53 12.50 11.33 3.91 6.15 2.97 1.50 2.44 2.63 Suits / Ensembles 12.94 11.28 10.23 9.81 0.41 0.27 0.21 0.19 0.12 0.10 0.08 0.16 Sweaters 195.80 173.68 104.88 110.12 5.51 5.07 35.29 36.92 2.47 2.03 1.64 1.47 Trousers 390.85 309.15 206.02 181.98 10.72 9.19 45.60 46.58 10.08 7.02 6.99 6.58 T-Shirts 214.23 186.60 56.85 54.38 18.41 16.03 71.15 67.21 3.23 2.84 3.09 3.16 Undergarments 22.47 21.16 16.02 16.36 1.59 1.70 0.44 0.81 0.15 0.26 1.06 0.98

Quantity in mn Kg

AUGUST 16-31, 2010 ApparelOnline 47 CMYK

RESOURCECENTRE

Krishna Lamicoat Largest Manufacturer of Specialized Paper Products for the Garment Industry takes ‘Sustainable’ Route to Business Led by the dynamic AMAR CHHAJER, Krishna Lamicoat, known in the industry for its specialized paper and films for the garment industry has consciously chosen to take the ‘sustainable’ route in all areas of operations as a way of life and work, creating a cutting edge which differentiates company and product from other competitors. The commitment begins with its newly constructed factory on the outskirts of Bangalore which has been built from bricks made on site of local mud using the natural terrain as a landscape. On a recent visit to the picturesque factory at Tavarekere, Team AO found many interesting initiatives that speak clearly of the direction to become a sustainable player in the supply chain.

walk through the factory in fact the first company to start of Krishna Lamicoat is a manufacturing of specialized A journey of learning, paper products in India. “We where much hyped concepts were the first to replace like 5S, Kaizen, TQM and Lean imported paper products for the have been imbedded in every garment industry with corner without the fuss. The indigenously made products neat and clean factory with well that too made by machines that groomed workers, modern have been developed in-house. machines and well documented Our perforating machine is the processes, speaks volumes of fastest in the world giving 10 the systems that have been put tonnes of output per day,” says in place for a work culture that a proud Ashok. With two such is testimony to the commitment machines, the company is in a to all three spheres of position to give a complete sustainability – environment, container load of 20 tonnes in social and economic. The just one day. detailing extends to safety Expanding to meet the increasing parameters and international requirement for plotter papers style of stacking paper in and films, Krishna Lamicoat vertical format using forklifts. currently has an annual capacity Workers in the factory are of 6000 MT’s consolidated over encouraged to share ideas and 50,000 sq. ft. factory in 3.25 lakh in a unique initiative they are sq. ft. land. The product range educated during working hours. includes plotter and marker Modern and process driven work culture at Hindi speaking workers are paper, heat seal plotter paper, Krishna Lamicoat taught Kannada and local workers graph paper, interleaving tissue are taught to read and write in separator, pattern board, over- Hindi. To motivate the workers, wrapping film, resealing performance-based competitions polywrap, perforated underlay are held at the factories and paper, underlay paper and winning teams rewarded. “We sequential labels. engage our workers and create With associate companies in an environment where targets Colombo, Kolkata and Delhi, the are achieved without the company claims to be the largest struggle,” says Ashok Chhajer, manufacturer of CAD/CAM son of the Founder, and vibrant paper products in India today. Director of the company. “The nearest competitor has The ISO 9001:2008 certified capacities and infrastructure of The indigenously made perforating machine is Krishna Lamicoat with over four only one-third of what we have,” the fastest in the world claims Krishna Lamicoat decades of industry exposure is claims Ashok. Matching

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RESOURCECENTRE

international standards in looking to market the same in paper collected by the company quality, the company is also both the domestic and is made into bundles and when exporting its specialized international arena. it becomes a truck load it is sent products to 15 countries across back to the paper mill in barter the globe, including Sri Lanka, Sustainable for fresh paper rolls. “This way Bangladesh, Dubai, Mauritius initiatives… for every 10 tonnes of paper, one and Fiji Island. Just recently, the company has tree is saved from being cut,” Working constantly to give better tied up with a supplier in argues Ashok. products to the industry, Singapore for one-sided printed With a vision to be 100% Krishna Lamicoat is increasingly paper which is being reused to sustainable, the waste at the forward and backward produce perforated paper. “The factory is collected in a integrating to bring as many width of the paper is small and systematic manner – three bags processes as possible under its we are joining them together are placed in the factory, one for control. “We are not only with adhesive to get bigger plastic films, second for craft manufacturing the product, but widths as required for cutting paper and third for white paper. also the packaging material, table” says Ashok. Though the Exporters that Krishna adhesive and stickers that are products made from such waste Lamicoat is working for are also used for the final product. Now paper are not competitive for the We engage our being encouraged to follow a the next move would be to Indian market, there is a huge similar procedure for easy manufacture our own paper, potential for exports to the workers and create an collection and disposal. “It is a which is definitely on the cards,” European Union. “The cost of environment where win-win situation for all, says Ashok. The company has products made from virgin targets are achieved exporters get rid of their waste an in-house testing lab to paper is very high in Europe, without much struggle” without any extra effort and we ensure that all the raw material whereas the same product with “ are able to recycle the waste for going into the final product no compromise on performance – ASHOK CHHAJER various uses,” reasons Ashok. meets stringent demands of will be available at almost 30% No wonder, the company is users worldwide. less using one-side printed today a leading name in its A new product diversification paper,” says Ashok. He is very industrial shredding facilities at segment. However, Ashok is for the company is wardrobe confident that the product will site. A pilot run is being perturbed by the unscrupulous paper that comes in 5 metre be a fast moving one in the west conducted at K. Mohan and will competitors compromising in rolls and is treated so that it last as it has the double edge soon become available to any quality and quantity leading to longer than the usual paper advantage of price saving while industry that would like to get corruption in the industry, which used to line shelves before being environment-friendly. rid of its years of stacked makes it difficult for principled storing clothes and other goods. Currently negotiations are on to records, but not at the cost of companies to work on ‘product “One can even place a hot iron supply these recycled products confidentiality. “We offer to strength’ alone. “Export house on the paper or spill acid/alkali to some brands in Europe. shred any organizations paper owners need to investigate what on it and nothing will happen,” The company is also looking to in front of their representative is being purchased for different says Ashok. The response to the support the industry in free of cost and in return we departments and ensure that new product has been very disposing of its waste paper for collect the shredded paper for only the best quality is positive and the company is recycling by offering free reuse,” avers Ashok. All waste accepted,” concludes Ashok.

AUGUST 16-31, 2010 ApparelOnline 49 CMYK

RESOURCECENTRE IIFT Enters LIMCA BOOK of WORLD RECORDS!!!

he graduating batch of TIndian Institute of Fashion Technology recently created history by establishing a world record for the most garment designs displayed in a fashion show within 2 hours and 45 minutes, bagging a place in the Limca Book of World Records. The fashion show Fashionite 2010 held in Bangalore saw a total of 542 garments made by 82 designers showcased. Arthy Singh, Senior Editor of Limca Book of Records was The record breaking fashion show at IIFT. The show saw 542 garments walk the ramp in 2 hours and 45 minutes present and monitored the record making event. The event was choreographed by University; Panduranga Nayak, At the event, Umme Salma was ‘small wonder’ inspired by Prasad Bidapa, a well known KAS Commissioner, Textiles awarded as the best designer. Japanese fan. name in the fashion industry. and Handlooms; Subhash Her design theme Ocean Jazz B. Vedhagiri, Director, Indian Hon’ble State Minister for Tiwari, Director, Shahi was inspired by life under Institute of Fashion Technology Textiles, Sports and Youth Exports; Dr. K. N. Ningegowda, water. Mahavir was the 1st thanked all the students, Services Goolihatti D. Shekar Chairman, Dept. of Apparel runner up designer for his designers, faculty, staff, models was the chief guest for the Technology, Bangalore theme Royal Journey inspired and choreographers for having day. Also present on the University; and Vijay Kumar by Dasara Procession, enabled Indian Institute of occasion were Dr. Prabhu Dev, Nirali, Project Director, followed by Pratibha as second Fashion Technology to achieve Vice-Chancellor, Bangalore Suvarna Vastra Neethi. runner up with the theme the world record.

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RESOURCECENTRE

AUGUST 16-31, 2010 ApparelOnline 51 CMYK

LOGISTICS

Supply Chain Management Challenges in the Apparel Industry The supply chain management system of the Apparel Industry has undergone dramatic changes in recent years. One thing that these changes make clear is the fact that individual manufacturers, suppliers, or retailers alone will not dominate the logistics market of the future. The winners will be networked enterprises with the knowledge and capability to integrate, optimize, and collaborate across their entire supply chain faster, better, and more profitably than other supply chains. In the Apparel Industry, the basis of competition is no longer limited to companies and their products, but rather their performance as an integrated supply chain.

nura Paranavithana, companies as well as the logistics quickly will enjoy a competitive Commercial Manager service providers mutually advantage over those who are A at Cargoplan complain about the problems slower so to do. International, a major supply that occur on account of appalling Sugesh suggests that the chain service provider of the infrastructure in the country performance should be linked to Apparel Industry, agrees that leading to delays in shipment. measure and reward the companies with best-in-class Hurdles related to the custom parameters both internally and supply chain management clearance and the taxation externally. It should be based practices achieve 10-30% process have been raised every upon key strategic factors like superior on-time delivery now and then by the industry. lead times, quality, delivery, performance than average The whole route to obtain information, cost and flexibility. performers, while spending clearance is quite cumbersome. Today’s challenge Leading exporters are now 30-50% less in total supply chain With time the intricacies of adopting the use of softwares management expenses. The is to construct a supply chain management are which are central to the savings potential is substantial; supply chain that becoming more and more difficult complete system between the it can range from 3% to 7% of to handle. “As we have clients in is robust enough to exporter, logistic service revenue, not to mention the different parts of the world, we provider and the buyer so as to competitive advantage gained! tolerate volume require flexibility in the systems without breaking help overcome the problem of Supply-chain thinking has and services to combat the time lag between the transfer traditionally been efficiency- difference in time span across down, and agile and receipt of information. oriented – A cost reduction sort the globe and varying demands enough to respond Technology is being considered of thing – whereas the new of the end customer,” says as the ‘perfect fit’. Warehouse approach of value-chain Sugesh Kumar, Logistics to rapidly changing Management System(WMS), thinking is organization Head, Aster Apparels. demands Product Lifecycle Management effectiveness-oriented. When Surajit Sarkar, Regional (PLM), and inbound logistics companies emphasize Manager – North (Shipment & Transportation Management effectiveness, they aren’t Logistics) at Forbes and Systems (TMS), and even necessarily trying to trim down Company says that selecting cooperation, coordination or business intelligence functions costs, but rather “to create the alternative measures is a wise capability among channel under a single umbrella, the ERP highest value for the customer”. choice if your current logistics partners will reduce possibilities software developers have become Today’s challenge is to construct provider isn’t delivering on-time for all. To build efficiency, one-stop-shops for many a supply chain that is robust then one should send shipments together the parties should shippers looking to simplify enough to tolerate volume by choosing priority options maintain transparency in their supply chain software. without breaking down, and available with the bigger firms or system. Key data should be Export firms which have been agile enough to respond to spend a few extra bucks to be provided to channel partners. successful with their supply rapidly changing demands. delivered as priority. The retail, apparel and textile chain mechanisms confess that The major challenges faced The supply chain management sectors are increasingly linked forecasting is the backbone while managing the supply chain problems can be solved with as a channel through behind their efficiency, as even a for the apparel industry are proper understanding of the information and distribution slightest delay may cause losses many. But the most important critical factors that affect the relationships. Thus, the in lakhs of rupees. Indeed, for are flexibility, shorter lead times, logistics management in the channel rather than the firm apparel manufacturers, the key use of technology, coordination Textile and Apparel Industry. becomes the basis for to success is the ability to between logistics provider and Anura lays great emphasis on competition. It is most likely introduce sophisticated exporter, custom delays and the fact that the apparel firm that those enterprises that information links, forecasting infrastructural bottlenecks. The should choose their channel adopt the advanced supply capabilities and management logistics managers in export partners wisely. Lack of chain management systems systems into one seamless chain.

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AUGUST 16-31, 2010 ApparelOnline 53 CMYK CMYK

TJX Opens its Liaison Office in India JCPenney India Office Gets a he TJX Companies, Inc. which new Country Head operates as an off-price retailer The search for a new leader to head the of apparel and home fashions T India operations of US Department Store in the United States and overseas JCPenney has ended with the opened its liaison office in Delhi appointment of Mridul Dasgupta, a recently. Till now TJX was sourcing NIFT pass out. He took over as Country through Li & Fung and WECA. TJX Manager on 1st August 2010. An Ex- India office has Shuchi Bhagat as Triburg Team Leader, Mridul has just its Director Sourcing and another 8 completed a 7-year stint in Indonesia people looking after sourcing and with Busana Apparel Group. He has also quality control. worked with Finesse Exports and TJX stores offer apparel, including Gokaldas Images in the early phase of footwear and accessories; home his career. fashions, including home basics, accent A. J. Wright, Winners, HomeSense, and T. K. Taking charge from Adil Raza, who has furniture, lamps, rugs, wall decor, decorative MAXX trademarks. Presently it has 890 T. J. been heading the Indian operations of accessories, and giftware; jewellery and Maxx, 813 Marshalls, 323 HomeGoods, and 150 JCPenney for a long time, will be a real accessories; men’s and juniors’ offerings; A. J. Wright stores in the US; 208 Winners, 79 challenge and with the years of children’s furniture; seasonal merchandise; and HomeSense, and 3 STYLESENSE stores in experience that Mridul brings in from other merchandise. The retailer is already Canada; and 263 T. K. Maxx and 14 HomeSense both the manufacturing and sourcing side sourcing both apparel and home furnishings stores in Europe. will definitely stand him in good stride. from India. Among the retailers doing well, The TJX The Apparel Online Team extends its The company founded in 1956 and based in Companies, Inc has announced that it will open congratulations to Mridula and wishes Framingham, Massachusetts, operates its stores 6 Marshalls stores in Canada in 2011 with more him the best of luck for new assignment. under the T. J. Maxx, Marshalls, HomeGoods, stores possible in the long-term.

AUGUST 16-31, 2010 ApparelOnline 55 CMYK