DOMENICA COOKS

GIARDINIERA-STUFFED EGGS

There are a thousand ways to stuff a hard-boiled egg, from classic deviled to fillings enriched with bacon, crab, or caviar. and kimchi-stuffed eggs seem to be popular these days. But my favorite are these giardiniera-stuffed eggs. The minced pickle adds just the right amount of crunch and vinegary punch to the creamy yolk filling without overwhelming it, and the colorful flecks make the eggs look pretty.

The biggest challenge when making stuffed eggs is getting the cooked eggs to peel properly, without divots. If you can, start with slightly older eggs. It is important to cook the eggs properly, too, so that the yolk is just firm, without a trace of stickiness in the center (undercooked) or a grey-green rim (overcooked, unattractive). Steaming is my preferred method.

It is worth the effort to force the cooked yolks through a sieve when you make the filling so that they will blend to a creamy consistency. Use a small coffee spoon to neatly mound the filling onto your egg white halves, or a pastry bag fitted with a star tip or a plain wide tip to pipe it.

Makes 6 servings (12 stuffed halves)

INGREDIENTS 6 large or extra-large eggs, at room temperature 1/2 cup finely chopped giardiniera (Italian pickled vegetable) 2 tablespoons (Duke's or Hellman's, not ) 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt Freshly ground black pepper For garnish: nonpareil capers (drained), parsley leaves, small pieces of pimento or roasted red peppers, giardiniera, or anchovy fillets

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Fit a medium saucepan with a steamer basket and add just enough water to reach the bottom of the basket. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Carefully place the eggs in the basket and cover with a lid. Set a timer for 15 minutes.

3. While the eggs are steaming, fill a bowl with water and add a handful of ice cubes. When the timer dings, turn off the heat and use a slotted spoon to transfer the eggs to the ice water. Let the eggs cool for a few minutes, then drain the bowl. Crack the eggs gently, just enough to splinter the shells a bit, and peel them; the peel should come off easily.

4. Cut each egg in half lengthwise with a sharp knife. Rinse or wipe the blade after each cut to clean it. Gently pop out the yolks and use the back of a teaspoon to force them through a fine- mesh strainer into a bowl. Set the whites on a serving platter or an egg plate if you have one. (Some recipes call for slicing of a thin sliver of the bottom of the egg whites to prevent them from rocking; I usually skip this step and arrange the eggs close enough to one another to keep them from jostling.)

5. Add the chopped giardiniera and mayonnaise to the bowl with the yolks and season with salt and a few grindings of pepper. Fold everything together until thoroughly combined and creamy.

7. Spoon or pipe the filling into the egg whites and garnish each one as you like. If not serving right away, cover the stuffed eggs with wrap and refrigerate; I actually prefer them somewhat chilled. If you are refrigerating them, let them stand at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving.