Naomi Sims: the First Black Model

Naomi Sims: The First Black Model Naomi Sims: The First Black Supermodel I. Intro A. Thesis: Naomi Sims paved the way for the ‘Black Mannequin’. II. How she got her start A. Her childhood and influences to model B. She worked through school posing for fashion illustrators C. Landed the cover of Ladies’ Home Journal(1968) III. Her modeling life A. Cover firsts and ‘rivalry’ with Beverly Johnson B. Her look’s message to the public was “Black is Beautiful” C. Her look and health regime D. Money and what it said about the black image E. She retired in 1973 IV. Outside of Modeling A. Family and her first book 1. All About Health and Beauty for the Black Woman B. The Naomi Sims Wig Collection C. How to Be a Top Model, All about Hair Care for the Black Woman, All About Success for the Black Woman D. Naomi Sims Beauty Collection Ltd. V. Philanthropy and Awards VI. Her Impact Anastasia Owen Eng 110 Tolliver Fashionable Lives Research Paper May 7th, 2015 Naomi Sims: The First Black Supermodel In the grand scheme of things, the fashion world has had a big hand in media proceedings and how society views a culture or entity. The rise of the ‘urban look’ is credited to the rise of black culture in fashion as it stands today. Many black models would not be as celebrated as they are today without the creation of this space. Naomi Sims currently holds the crown as the first black supermodel as well as most influential black fashion icon. From her work on the runway, wig and beauty products line, to her many books on the black woman, there is no doubt that her contributions to the fashion world set a new precedence for the black mannequin as well as the black woman. Naomi Sims was born to John and Elizabeth Sims in Oxford Mississippi on March 30th, 1948. She was the youngest of three daughters and was never knew her father. Later, Mrs.Sims moved the family to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. A combination of having to be put up for foster care, her mother calling her absent father a bum, and being 5ft 10in at age 13 caused her to stray from a happy childhood. Her one vice was dreaming of being in the fashion world. By age 14 she had subscriptions to Harper’s Bazaar as well as Vogue and dreamed of studying at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology. This dream was realized once she was approved for a scholarship to go to FIT. Unfortunately, that scholarship did not last long enough for her to get her degree and she started to earn extra money by posing for fashion illustrators on the side. This pre-modeling experience helped her to gain her first big break in New York. Whilst dreaming of how to integrate herself into the pages of magazines such as TIME or Cosmopolitan, Sims made an opportunity for herself to do just that. She took initiative for her career, met a professional photographer in New York and asked if they were signed with a label. The next thing America saw was Sims on the cover of Ladies’ Home Journal in 1968. This, of course, caused a stir. Not just on the runway, but in the general public as well. During the late 60s, media had an unsaid rule about representation. If there we’re three white models or actresses, then they would add one who was black. But having a person of color be the main focus of anything that wasn’t exclusively geared toward the black public was unheard of. To no surprise, before she was able to get the cover, she had looked around for other agencies and was turned down each time. The white public was not ready for a black face. But, once she gained the status of being the first black mannequin on the cover of Ladies’ Home Journal, (fig. 1)doors were opened. Sims long and graceful gait stood out against the frail and wry white models of the age. She soon was found on the cover of TIME(1969), Cosmopolitan(1973), Life Magazine(1969) and Vogue(1973). Whether or not she was the first black woman to grace the cover of Vogue is up for debate, as many people credit Beverly Johnson to being the first. But, this issue was released in 1974, a few months after Naomi Sims. There was talk of pitted hatred between Johnson and Sims, even though Sims has said multiple times that they were friends and colleagues. Media saw the rise of both models as a threat to the white society they knew and created the idea in an effort to bring one if not both down. But, they had already started a movement. Sims was a picturesque form that photographers loved. She embodied ‘Black is Beautiful’. Magazines started to see the rise in a new kinds of fashion. During the 1970s, color blocking and african prints became hot and desirable. The ‘urban’ look started to appear on the Runway, but on white models. The fashion world decided to play into the stereotypes given by the public and used (fig.1 Naomi Sims on the cover of Ladies’ Home Journal) black models to show these fashions. Not only for the urban look but the white and black color blocking look as well. Bert Stern, famed photographer, explains that “Negroes photograph better against white...Black models are more willing and able to put out for the camera.”(TIME 90) Milton Greene, who is notable for the famous photographs of Marilyn Monroe comments that “black models are more willing and able to put out for the camera.”(TIME 90) Of course this could be because the competition to become the best supermodel was tough. Being recognized at all meant that you not only we’re gorgeous but had the drive to be featured by many major labels who were looking for that stark contrast between clothing and skin. Naomi Sims’ name came up often because of her contoured face and supple form. She became notable for her unblemished skin which many compared to chocolate. When called to meet Diana Vreeland, Vogue editor, she was immediately received with open arms and Vreeland exclaiming that “She is fantastic!”(White ) Because of her look, she is often seen in white, cream, or beige garments and angular poses. Her signature accent was a white orchid in her hair. (fig. 2)When asked about what regime she held, Sims replied that “Walking keeps me in shape.”(White 2009) She reportedly was very disciplined about what she ate as well. The pressures of the job forced her to eat very little; only an orange a day was one of her most frequent fasts. (fig. 2 Naomi Sims photographed in black and white) All of this fuss about her gained her the Model of the Year award in 1969 and again in 1970. This was another pivotal moment in her career because this earned her a pay raise to about $1000 a week. To put that in perspective, during the time white models would make around $30 a week and black models would make $10 or $15 a week. In todays money, Sims was raking in around $4,000 a week. She was even offered a movie deal to play the lead of ‘Cleopatra Jones’ in 1972, weighing in at around $40,000 for the role. But she turned it down and the role was given to fellow model Tamara Dobson. The reason she didn’t accept such role, ended up being the same reason that she retired from modeling in 1973, just 5 years after her start. She was tired of the superficial values [of the fashion world] and landing jobs to fill racial quotas and not star quality. (Smith, Jackson, Wynn) But she took her name and reputation and embarked on another part of her life that also became a pathway for the black woman. In 1973, just after receiving the Woman of Achievement award from the American Cancer society, Sims married Michael Alistair Findlay. They had one son a couple years later whom they named Pip. Now having a family to fill her life, Sims felt comfortable embarking on a writing and business career. 1976, Sims released her first book All About Health and Beauty for the Black Woman. This was her first feat outside of the fashion industry that was a clear involvement towards black pride and black beauty. Her husband supported her by holding book signings at his art gallery in New York along with portraits done by famous photographers of her. The book held information on how to prevent diseases, nutritional tips and even etiquette. She launched the Naomi Sims Collection in that same year, a collection of wigs geared towards the black woman. “I started to model to supplement my income to go to college...But the idea of starting my own business had always appealed (Fig 3- All About Health And Beauty for the Black Woman by Naomi Sims) to me, and I was fortunate that my first career let to my second.”(Golus) During the time, black women made up 40%-50% of wig customers. Sims remembered her own struggle to find the perfect wig amongst all of those with texture that was made of straight fibers resembling white-american hair. She sat down and decided to change the fiber herself to fit the market. It was as simple as wetting, then baking the fiber for a short amount of time that gave it the coarse texture that resembled African-American women’s hair.

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