Naomi Sims: The First Black Model
Naomi Sims: The First Black Supermodel
I. Intro
A. Thesis: Naomi Sims paved the way for the ‘Black Mannequin’.
II. How she got her start
A. Her childhood and influences to model
B. She worked through school posing for fashion illustrators
C. Landed the cover of Ladies’ Home Journal(1968)
III. Her modeling life
A. Cover firsts and ‘rivalry’ with Beverly Johnson
B. Her look’s message to the public was “Black is Beautiful”
C. Her look and health regime
D. Money and what it said about the black image
E. She retired in 1973
IV. Outside of Modeling
A. Family and her first book
1. All About Health and Beauty for the Black Woman
B. The Naomi Sims Wig Collection
C. How to Be a Top Model, All about Hair Care for the Black Woman, All About
Success for the Black Woman
D. Naomi Sims Beauty Collection Ltd.
V. Philanthropy and Awards
VI. Her Impact Anastasia Owen
Eng 110
Tolliver
Fashionable Lives Research Paper
May 7th, 2015
Naomi Sims: The First Black Supermodel
In the grand scheme of things, the fashion world has had a big hand in media proceedings and how society views a culture or entity. The rise of the ‘urban look’ is credited to the rise of black culture in fashion as it stands today. Many black models would not be as celebrated as they are today without the creation of this space. Naomi Sims currently holds the crown as the first black supermodel as well as most influential black fashion icon. From her work on the runway, wig and beauty products line, to her many books on the black woman, there is no doubt that her contributions to the fashion world set a new precedence for the black mannequin as well as the black woman.
Naomi Sims was born to John and Elizabeth Sims in Oxford Mississippi on March 30th, 1948.
She was the youngest of three daughters and was never knew her father. Later, Mrs.Sims moved the family to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. A combination of having to be put up for foster care, her mother calling her absent father a bum, and being 5ft 10in at age 13 caused her to stray from a happy childhood.
Her one vice was dreaming of being in the fashion world. By age 14 she had subscriptions to Harper’s
Bazaar as well as Vogue and dreamed of studying at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology. This dream was realized once she was approved for a scholarship to go to FIT. Unfortunately, that scholarship did not last long enough for her to get her degree and she started to earn extra money by posing for fashion illustrators on the side. This pre-modeling experience helped her to gain her first big break in New York. Whilst dreaming of how to integrate herself into the pages of magazines such as
TIME or Cosmopolitan, Sims made an opportunity for herself to do just that. She took initiative for her career, met a professional photographer in New York and asked if they were signed with a label.
The next thing America saw was Sims on the cover of Ladies’ Home Journal in 1968. This, of course, caused a stir. Not just on the runway, but in the general public as well. During the late 60s, media had an unsaid rule about representation. If there we’re three white models or actresses, then they would add one who was black. But having a person of color be the main focus of anything that wasn’t exclusively geared toward the black public was unheard of. To no surprise, before she was able to get the cover, she had looked around for other agencies and was turned down each time. The white public was not ready for a black face. But, once she gained the status of being the first black mannequin on the cover of Ladies’ Home Journal, (fig. 1)doors were opened. Sims long and graceful gait stood out against the frail and wry white models of the age. She soon was found on the cover of TIME(1969),
Cosmopolitan(1973), Life Magazine(1969) and Vogue(1973). Whether or not she was the first black woman to grace the cover of Vogue is up for debate, as many people credit Beverly Johnson to being the first. But, this issue was released in 1974, a few months after Naomi Sims. There was talk of pitted hatred between Johnson and Sims, even though Sims has said multiple times that they were friends and colleagues. Media saw the rise of both models as a threat to the white society they knew and created the idea in an effort to bring one if not both down. But, they had already started a movement. Sims was a picturesque form that photographers loved. She embodied ‘Black is Beautiful’.
Magazines started to see the rise in a new kinds of fashion. During the 1970s, color blocking and african prints became hot and desirable. The ‘urban’ look started to appear on the Runway, but on white models. The fashion world decided to play into the stereotypes given by the public and used
(fig.1 Naomi Sims on the cover of Ladies’ Home Journal) black models to show these fashions. Not only for the urban look but the white and black color blocking look as well. Bert Stern, famed photographer, explains that “Negroes photograph better against white...Black models are more willing and able to put out for the camera.”(TIME 90) Milton
Greene, who is notable for the famous photographs of Marilyn Monroe comments that “black models are more willing and able to put out for the camera.”(TIME 90) Of course this could be because the competition to become the best supermodel was tough. Being recognized at all meant that you not only we’re gorgeous but had the drive to be featured by many major labels who were looking for that stark contrast between clothing and skin. Naomi Sims’ name came up often because of her contoured face and supple form. She became notable for her unblemished skin which many compared to chocolate. When called to meet Diana Vreeland, Vogue editor, she was immediately received with open arms and Vreeland exclaiming that “She is fantastic!”(White ) Because of her look, she is often seen in white, cream, or beige garments and angular poses. Her signature accent was a white orchid in her hair.
(fig. 2)When asked about what regime she held, Sims replied that “Walking keeps me in shape.”(White 2009) She reportedly was very disciplined about what she ate as well. The pressures of the job forced her to eat very little; only an orange a day was one of her most frequent fasts.
(fig. 2 Naomi Sims photographed in black and white) All of this fuss about her gained her the Model of the Year award in 1969 and again in 1970.
This was another pivotal moment in her career because this earned her a pay raise to about $1000 a week. To put that in perspective, during the time white models would make around $30 a week and black models would make $10 or $15 a week. In todays money, Sims was raking in around $4,000 a week. She was even offered a movie deal to play the lead of ‘Cleopatra Jones’ in 1972, weighing in at around $40,000 for the role. But she turned it down and the role was given to fellow model Tamara
Dobson. The reason she didn’t accept such role, ended up being the same reason that she retired from modeling in 1973, just 5 years after her start. She was tired of the superficial values [of the fashion world] and landing jobs to fill racial quotas and not star quality. (Smith, Jackson, Wynn) But she took her name and reputation and embarked on another part of her life that also became a pathway for the black woman.
In 1973, just after receiving the Woman of Achievement award from the American Cancer society, Sims married Michael Alistair Findlay. They had one son a couple years later whom they named Pip. Now having a family to fill her life, Sims felt comfortable embarking on a writing and business career. 1976, Sims released her first book All About Health and Beauty for the Black Woman. This was her first feat outside of the fashion industry that was a clear involvement towards black pride and black beauty. Her husband supported her by holding book signings at his art gallery in New York along with portraits done by famous photographers of her. The book held information on how to prevent diseases, nutritional tips and even etiquette. She launched the Naomi Sims Collection in that same year, a collection of wigs geared towards the black woman. “I started to model to supplement my income to go to college...But the idea of starting my own business had always appealed
(Fig 3- All About Health And Beauty for the Black Woman by Naomi Sims) to me, and I was fortunate that my first career let to my second.”(Golus) During the time, black women made up 40%-50% of wig customers. Sims remembered her own struggle to find the perfect wig amongst all of those with texture that was made of straight fibers resembling white-american hair.
She sat down and decided to change the fiber herself to fit the market. It was as simple as wetting, then baking the fiber for a short amount of time that gave it the coarse texture that resembled
African-American women’s hair. With that she started to approach wig manufacturers with her idea.
Many turned her down, claiming that there was no value in selling towards black women, which would later be the same excuse given to her by department stores for not selling her product.
White-owned firms didn’t believe in black-owned businesses. But soon enough, Metropa Company made a deal with her. The hardest part was manufacturing the fiber that had just the right texture, it wouldn’t get too frizzy or too straight. They eventually came up with a lightweight fiber that they named Presselle which looked, felt, and reacted like straightened black hair. In her first year, even though they were considered expensive at $20 to $30 a piece, the Naomi Sims Wig Collection grossed over $5 million. Sims designed the wig styles herself for the first 3 years. “Basically, we duplicated the styles that were popular-what black women on the street were wearing.”, Sims reported.(Golus) Three years later, the majority of Metropa’s sales were due to the success of the collection. This set the precedent for how wigs were made today, mimicking any hair texture from relaxed to natural. Her company changed the market of black hair forever. It was around this time that Sims released her second book, How to Be a Top Model. The book seemed to go as a companion to the two other books she published in 1981 All About Hair Care for the Black Woman and All About Success for the Black Woman. These books were a collection of knowledge given to her form her modeling and entrepreneurship. All About Success for the Black Woman is laden with advice on how to conduct oneself as a black woman in todays society by navigating motherhood, jobs, and the corporate scene.
Her image of success was on a roll as she expanded her company to now include perfume and skin care products, and in 1981, she launched her own fragrance, ‘Naomi’. In 1987 she decided to create a separate company called Naomi Sims Beauty collection Ltd.(fig. 4) Sims saw it as a very distinct move in her career as the new collection featured skincare as well as makeup and hair care products geared towards the black woman. She even went as far as to be the spokesperson for the line stating that “One of the things people notice about me is the quality of my skin...We decided I was the best person to advertise my products.”(Golus) Of course the public were very skeptical, saying that the line was way too expensive at $100 an ounce for perfume. Sims commented that the line was made expensive on purpose to not cheapen the image. The market would only respect the most prestige of items and during those times, the most prestige of items were the most expensive ones.
(fig. 4 Naomi Sims on cover of Black Enterprise featuring the Naomi Sims Beauty Collection
Ltd.) Her business ideas and marketing led her to hold a long lasting company that still runs today online selling mostly eyeshadows and rogue. Her marketing skills were so popular, in fact, that the company expanded in the late 1980s and started a campaign through Canada. During the initial event to celebrate the expansion, Sims took the opportunity to fundraise for charity work. In fact, during her life she was closely connected to the Harlem Northside Center for Child Development as she sat on the board of directors, Women’s Firm Inc., Play schools Association, Sickle Cell Anemia Drive as a panel member and lecturer, and the New York State Drug Rehabilitation Program. Her philanthropy was seen in life as she won many awards for both her modeling and success in business. In 1970, along with receiving the Model or the Year award and being named one of the Women of Achievement by Ladies’ Home Journal, she received the New York City Board of Education Award. On September 20th, 1973, the Governor of Illinoi named it Naomi Sims day and she received the key to the city of Cleveland,
Ohio. She was in the Modeling Hall of Fame and Women of the Country by International
Mannequins in 1977. To top it all off, she was listed on the International Best-Dressed lists from
1971-1973, 1976 and 1977 and received the Modeling Hall of Fame from International Mannequins in
1977. She held all of these trophies in her home with her husband and son, who frequently asks to play with them.
Naomi Sims is no doubt a trailblazer for not only black fashion, but black culture. Her swift rise to the cover of Ladies’ Home Journal broke the color barrier and forced the white society to see that ‘Black is Beautiful’ is not only a movement but an art form. She would sashay down the runway with long toned limbs, moving the same as a ballet dancer would execute a pirouette and, according to
Wilhelmina Cooper, who’s agency helped give Sims her start, “She could make any garment--even a sackcloth-- look like sensational haute couture.”(Golus) She gave black people a vision, that wasn’t stereotyped and regurgitated in media everywhere. During the time black role models were usually found in sports magazines. (White 2003) But Naomi Sims became a new kind of role model, that emphasised beauty and creation. Unfortunately, due to breast cancer, Sims died at age 61 on August 1st,
2009 in New Jersey. Many remember her as the first African-American supermodel or the first black covergirl. Regardless, Sims was very proud of who she was and where she got to be in her life. When asked of her impact she said “I gave them elegance and regality.” (White 2009) It is suffice to say that she succeeded in not only that for the fashion world, but for the black woman as well.
Notes: ● Black Models Today Here ○ Fashion shies away from showing Negro models for fear of scaring models ○ TV ads made a rule:'if three models are white, one must be black" ○ Avg models paid 10/15$ an hour versus the 30$ for white models ● Naomi is the most ubiquitous and highest paid fashion models in the world but She can never be on playboy ● Rocks the 'afro look' ● "Negroes photograph better against white," explains Bert Stern—and most pure fashion photography is white-backgrounded to show off the clothes. Milton Greene, famed for his photographs of Marilyn Monroe, adds: "Black models are more willing and able to put out for the camera." ● Naomi Sims Obituary Here ○ She attended the fashion institute of technology in 1966 and wante dto model to support herself ■ She was there on a scholarship (says she was somewhere else studying psychology?) ○ She sought out a photographer directly in order to land a photo spread in the New York Times ○ Was on the cover of Ladies' Home Journal in 1968 which broke the color barrier at mainstream women's magazines ■ Then was on cover of Cosmopolitan, Essence, and Life ● Naomi Sims, First Black Supermodel Here ○ Died from breast cancer at 61 ○ Gave up modeling after 5 years and started a wig business geared towards black women ○ Wrote the book "All About Health And Beauty For The Black Woman" ○ Family: Son-Robert, Sister-Betty, and Grandmother. ● Naomi Sims Honored at FIT Here ○ Even in these pictures, she is lightened ○ Received a Lifetime Achievement Award from Fashion & Arts Xchange(FAX) ○ "Sponsored by the Fashion Institute of Technology's Educational opportunity Programs, this Special "Networking with Style" affair was well attended by the fashion industry's VIPs. Sims is still beautiful and graceful." ○ First black model to appear on covers such as Life, Vogue, and Ladies home journal. ○ Born in Oxford Mississippi. ■ At 13, she felt ostracized because already 5ft 10. ■ Spent high school in pittsburgh, moved to New York and got big break.(Approached a top photographer) ○ In New York, also was first to grace cover of The New York Times "Fashion of the Times" ○ Dark, tall, confident contrasted well against the lighter skinned models of the time. ○ Black role models usually found in sports magazines during this time, ('and feminism was the buzzword') ○ Writing ■ All about Health And Beauty for the Black Woman;How to Become a Top Model(1979); All About Success for the Black Woman(1983) ■ Wrote a column in Right On! Magazine(for young people) ○ "I Gave them elegance and regality" Naomi Sims ● Naomi Sims: A Life of Beauty(Obituary/Bio) Here ○ Naomi loved to walk everywhere ("Walking keeps me in shape.") ○ Once fasted by eating one meal a day(an orange) while at a country resort. The time she ate it was important apparently, she was very disciplined. ○ She has been obsessed with clothes since she was four; By 14 subscribed to Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. ○ "Her skin was smooth like chocolate. Her perfectly shaped face was like a professional's chiseled piece of sculpture." ○ "Her beauty breaks through the printed page or television screen and she makes … people shout 'Hurrah!' when she walks in the room.", Bernadine Morris in the Times ○ First black model on cover of Life Magazine (1968) ○ When summoned in front of eccentric Vogue editor Diana Vreeland in 1968 ■ They say(?)" When Sims walked into the room, Vreeland took one look at her and shot out her arms, exclaiming 'She is fantastic!' and booked her instantly to shoot the next collection with Irving Perm." ○ When voted 'Model of the Year' reportedly making $1000 a week. ○ Her impact ■ Laid groundwork for top models like Beverly Johnson(1st cover of vogue), Naomi Campbell, Iman, Alek Wek, and others. ■ Very popular with the major American and European fashion editors. ■ Had an "ability to inject a dramatic flow to garments was an art form." ■ "Her beautifully contoured face and the lithe suppleness of her body presented on the extraordinary pages of high-fashioned journals were evidence of the wider societal movement of Black Pride and the full expression of "Black is Beautiful." " ○ Orchid in her hair was a signature look. She often wore white, ecru, cream, and beige. ● Encyclopedia of African American Business, Volume 2 Here ○ Cover of Vogue in 1973 ○ When attending New York's Fashion Institute of Technology, she ran short on funds and supported herself by posing for fashion illustrators. ○ National symbol of the "Black is beautiful" movement ○ Dynamic professional runway modeling career lasted from 1967 to 1973 ■ Characterized by her dark skin and long ■ Retired in '73 b/c she was tired of the superficial values and landing jobs to fill racial quotas and not star quality. ○ In 70s, black women nought 40-50% of all wigs sold. ■ Sism took advantage of this by creating wigs for black women in 1976 called the Naomi Sims Collection. ■ Capitalized the market by designing and manufacturing the first "natural looking wigs" designed with black hair texture in mind ■ When started, many dep't stores saw no future in the business b/c they saw no value in wigs for women of color. ■ She stood her ground despite major corporations turning her down and in the first year, her collection grossed over $5 million. ○ The Naomi Sims Beauty Products, Limited was launched in 1986 ■ By 1988 exceeded $5 million in profits. ■ In 2003, the cosmetics were expanded as they were made available to canada. ● This campaign also opened Sims' philanthropic side. "The initial event was used as a fundraiser for charity work, where it was decided that looking good and feeling great were important within communities of people of color." ○ She was closely connected with the Harlem Northside Center for Child Development(board of directors); Women's Firm Inc; Play Schools Association; Sickle Cell Anemia Drive (panel member and lecturer); and the New York State Drug Rehabilitation Program. ○ Awards(again) ■ Model of the year award 1969 and 70 ■ Modeling Hall of Fame, International Mannequins 1977 ■ Women of the Country, International Mannequins 1977 ■ Women of Achievement, American Cancer Society 1972 ■ Top Hat Award, New Pittsburgh Courier, 1974 ■ Ladies' Home Journal Woman of Achievement, 1970 ■ Key to the City of Cleveland Recipient, 1970 ■ Lifetime Achievement Award from Fashion & Arts Xchange, 2003 ■ Sept 20, 1973, Naomi Sims day ○ Married to Michael Alistar Findlay and have a child, Pip.
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