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Iman✱ the greatest four-letter word

IMAN is more in the moment than ever, even when she’s needlepointing for her grandkids by ERIC WILSON photographed by ANTHONY MAULE styled by NINA STERGHIOU

Let it be known that it was Iman’s idea to wear a wet T-shirt. With a career that has spanned four decades, Iman is “I suggested it,” she says over a glass of pinot grigio, such a reliably adaptable and yet physically unaltered sitting in the lobby of the Mercer hotel in fixture of popular culture that most people wouldn’t know shortly after the photo shoot where the accompanying im- she actually retired from the runways in 1989. She hasn’t age of one super-soaked was created. Iman had so much as attended a fashion show since, though she been asked to wear a Supreme T-shirt as a simple homage continues to outpace even some of her youngest peers both to her stature as an unrivaled deity of the modeling world, a in relevancy and in ad pages, most recently appearing in trailblazing cosmetics entrepreneur, and a long-standing campaigns for Valentino and Balmain. Fans on Instagram advocate for women. are obsessed with unearthing glamorous photos of Iman Too basic for Iman. She had other ideas. from the heyday of ’80s fashion, when she appeared in “I’m 63—why would I have a Supreme T-shirt?” she says. Thierry Mugler shows and attended galas with Calvin “It’s just a boring T-shirt. It’s too young and too hip. So I said, Klein. Especially popular are images that show the inimi- jokingly, ‘Why don’t we get it wet?’ And as I said it, every- table pairing of two icons of style, Iman and her late hus-

body said, ‘Yeah!’ I was like, ‘Fuck, now I have to deliver.’ ” band, , who reportedly once said, “You would Frame She delivered. think that a rock star being married to a supermodel would jeans. Necklace, “Well, you know, I try,” Iman deadpanned. be one of the greatest things in the world. It is.” her own.

224 InSTYLE MARCH 2019 pearing in public again, though she avoids the red carpets for fear that those conversations with reporters will inevi- tably lead to the subject of her loss. “I’m fine,” she says. “But it becomes awkward, so I try to stay away.” She has instead focused on family, encouraging Lexi, her 18-year-old daughter with Bowie, in her pursuit of a career as an artist, and spending time with her three young grand- A children. Iman pulls a phone from her purse to show a photograph of a framed needlepoint teddy bear she had An even more crucial reminder of her continuing legacy is been working on as a present for the youngest, Zowie, a that as the founder and chief executive of Iman Cosmetics, granddaughter by Bowie’s son, the film director Duncan she created a collection of makeup and foundation with an Jones, who also has a 2-year-old son, Stenton. Zulekha extensive array of shades specifically designed for women of Haywood, Iman’s older daughter from her previous mar- color decades ahead of the current beauty-industry move- riage to the retired basketball player Spencer Haywood, has ment toward inclusivity. And yet in person, she remains a 1-year-old daughter, Lavinia. Imagining the possibilities as humble, charming, and, of course, strikingly beautiful from the perspective of a new generation has, in a way, as she must have appeared to the photographer Peter caused Iman to wonder what’s next for her too. Beard when he met her as a student in Nairobi in 1975. “My plan is just loose,” she says. “It’s kind of weird, be- “She’s not just a on the outside but also on the cause I’ve worked all my life, from when I was 14 years old. inside,” says her friend , who first worked I mean, I’ve never planned anything, besides Iman with Iman when Karan, still in her 20s, became the head Cosmetics. I’ve stumbled into things, or things found me. designer of Anne Klein and Iman had just arrived in So now I’m at a stage where I’ll just see what happens.” New York. Their connection was instant and has lasted Iman is reluctant to speak at length about Bowie, but she through the years, their careers, their marriages, their shares remembrances of him often, calling him her “forever children, their respective loves and losses. When Karan love” or posting on Instagram a picture of herself from 1991 introduced the Stephan Weiss Apple Awards last year to with a platinum blond wig created by the late Teddy Antolin, commemorate the memory of her late husband (Weiss the hairdresser who introduced them. Hours after we speak, died in 2001), one of the first honorees was Iman. she calls to respectfully request discretion, as, in many ways, “From the deep, deep essence inside her, she cares,” Iman and Bowie led their very private lives in public. Editor Karan says. friends have been invited into their homes over the years, Now both women are widows and grandmothers, a detail but none has ever been allowed to photograph them. In New Iman brings up as she explains that one of her latest pas- York, she recalls, Bowie often ate outside at cafés, reading sions happens to be needlepoint. Who would have imagined the newspaper, but people didn’t bother him. Iman as a crafter, wearing reading glasses no less? “My PR “This city is how my husband—well, both of us, but guy said, ‘I don’t want you ever doing that on airplanes or in especially David—was able to live,” she says. “We were public,’ ” she says, recognizing this sort of hobby might be going to move to London when we got married, and every considered off-brand for a supermodel. “I’m just an average time we got there, the paparazzi followed us from when girl, but I’ve always understood the importance of creating a we arrived at the airport until we left, so we decided we mystique so that people don’t know too much about me.” couldn’t raise a kid that way.” Though images of Iman tend to project a powerful sense Iman hasn’t left the country in seven years, not since her Maison Alaïa coat. BEAUTY BEAT of fierceness and independence, in reality she is that and husband became ill and their daughter was finishing high For easy smoky eyes, rim upper much more—funny, human, warm, and, since Bowie’s school, but now she plans to travel. She wants to visit lashes with Iman death three years ago, somewhat vulnerable and a little Morocco and all of northern Africa with Bethann Hardison, Cosmetics Perfect Eye Shadow Pencil wistful too. His absence, or rather his presence in all the a model-turned-agent and Iman’s closest friend of 40 years. in Mystery ($10; imancosmetics small reminders of daily life, remains almost palpable in And Karan has talked her into a trip to Cuba and Haiti. .com), then use a small shadow brush everything about Iman. She wears a necklace with his One thing is for certain, and that is she will remain so- to diffuse the color. name on it. Even her beloved Cavanese mix, an 11-year-old cially engaged. Though I have interviewed Iman on several Hair: Ursula Stephen for named Max, has one blue eye and one brown, kind of like occasions, the first time we spoke extensively was in 2013, Starworks Artists. Bowie, whose eyes appeared to be different colors as the when I wrote a feature for on the sub- Makeup: Porsche Cooper for Iman result of one permanently dilated pupil. She has begun ap- ject of racism in fashion and what had led to a startling and Cosmetics.

226 InSTYLE MARCH 2019 1986: At home

shameful lack of diversity on the run- ways and in advertising campaigns at 1992: At an L.A. the time. Many prominent advocates screening for diversity had been complaining of Single White about the problem for years but so Female politely that nothing seemed likely to change, at least not until the gloves fi-

nally came off. Hardison organized a 1989: At a launch campaign to chasten designers who event for a 1994: continued to ignore black models. Tia Maria ad At the N.Y.C. campaign première of Nell Iman went further, calling for an out- right boycott of those brands. 1991: At a “I remember at that time, the birthday most coveted bag was from Céline,” party for 1991: Herb Ritts she says. “Every girl, black, white, Strolling in in Culver the park in City, Calif. Asian, you name it, they wanted that Paris bag. I’ve never owned one for the simple reason they didn’t use any 1986: black girls. They were saying it was In a modeling for aesthetic reasons, like, velvet shot is out this season. They didn’t even know what they were saying.” Since then the picture has changed noticeably for the better. In the past few months Adut Akech, a striking Sudanese-Australian who closed the shows of Valentino and Chanel, took the No. 1 spot on the annual Models.com industry-awards list, and , who also participated in Hardison’s diversity initiative, débuted her first beauty contract, with Nars, after more than 30 years in the business. More than anything, I have found, Iman is willing to say just what needs to be said without fearing the possi- ble repercussions. When I ask her who inspires her 2015: 1991: In Brandon At a gala today, she says, “Somebody who really cares, and, yes, Maxwell at the dinner in I’m taking a swipe at that jacket worn by the First Glamour Versailles, Women of the France Lady,” she says, referring to Melania Trump’s 2001: Year Awards At the 35th- in N.Y.C. controversial wardrobe choice when visiting anniversary party for migrant children on the U.S.-Mexico border last Emanuel summer. “I’ve always been political. My father Ungaro in N.Y.C. was an ambassador [he served as the Somali ambassador to ], and I come from an activist family. I majored in politi- cal science, and, at times, I think, people have been asleep at the wheel. Now, all of a sudden, they have awakened. This is when social media does something good, when it can really galvanize people, especially 1991: young people, to understand.” 2001: At a party Shopping 1990: for Lane Her worldly outlook comes from her up- in N.Y.C. At the 7th on Davis Sale benefit for 2007: Designs in bringing, she says. Born in , she trav- AIDS charities West In Stella 2003: in N.Y.C. eled extensively with her siblings and settled McCartney At a Hollywood with David WWD and in before she moved to the United States Bowie at the Diamond to pursue modeling and acting (she had roles Costume Information Institute Gala Center in Out of Africa, No (CONTINUED ON PAGE 274) in N.Y.C. event in L.A.

228 InSTYLE MARCH 2019 Iman: The Greatest sure that you must succeed at all costs, I can refill my tank and continue on the mis- Four-Letter Word couldn’t let my parents’ sacrifices be in vain. sion. Now, later, Black Lives Mat- However, I knew I had to scale back to adjust ter has a dedicated staff that handles the CONTINUED FROM PAGE 228 to the reality of my limits. The pace was be- day-to-day duties, and my fellow founders Way Out, and L.A. Story, among other films). ginning to take a personal toll. and I are spokeswomen. I’m still the exec- “Regardless of what people might think of For starters, I wasn’t taking very good utive director of BAJI, but I soon plan to me, in my country I’m not a beauty,” Iman care of my health. I had had a standard op- step back and write my first book. After al- says, “because Somali women are known for eration on my foot, but it didn’t heal cor- most a decade of being a leader, I’m think- their beauty. My father is now 89, and he rectly because I pushed it too soon. I didn’t ing about how I can pause to reflect on looks 40.” But as a woman also of great intel- sleep as much as I should have. I also got su- what I’ve learned and share it in a new way. ligence, she has become more than a role per depressed while dating a guy who was Knowing that I’m allowing myself to be model for many of the young women entering perfect on paper but turned out to be a toxic, transformed by these lessons means I am fashion today from Sudan, Nigeria, and emotionally abusive partner. I didn’t recog- truly honoring myself and my community. Uganda to proudly display their heritages nize it until we were a year in because I was And for this I am grateful. n and raise their voices to fight injustices. in overdrive mode. Had I been in a better “In that way she is more relevant than rhythm, I would have thought, “Oh, no, why ever,” Karan says. “She has taken the past, are you tolerating this nonsense? You need the present, and the future and continues to to be in a healthier relationship.” The Conscience move forward.” I also began to notice that I was missing CONTINUED FROM PAGE 245 Iman’s beauty business was started in friends’ weddings and baby-naming cere- 1994, and while she doesn’t go into the office monies. I was so caught up in the fight that the yard, and I used to preach to them. On as often these days, she still approves its when they had something great to cele- one occasion I tried to baptize one. When products, sold at a number of stores, includ- brate, I was on a flight to somewhere else. I my mother and father wanted to have a ing CVS, Target, and Walmart. Its signifi- didn’t want to be that person. A notable chicken for a meal, I would protest. [laughs] cance, like that of the Naomi Sims collection turning point was when one of my best But I got over it. of wigs and cosmetics that came before her in friends was about to give birth and asked LB: Can we talk about your suit for a second? the 1970s, cannot be understated, certainly me to come see her and I did. It was freeing You are so elegantly put together. I’ve no- not to the millions of women who had previ- to realize that I didn’t need to immediately ticed this freshness is consistent with you. ously felt unseen with a lack of products cre- respond to whatever was going on in the JL: I liked to look, you know, combed as I was ated especially for them. Still, it seems world at the time and that I actually had growing up. I wanted to look like a minister. curious that the broader beauty industry has some agency. I figured out a way to be with LB: Do you have a suit and tie that you put on only recently embraced a more diverse pal- her for 10 days. The baby, my godson, didn’t when you want to communicate something ette since the phenomenal success of Rihan- come until later, but we had fun. You can or one that just makes you feel great? na’s Fenty Beauty collection in 2017. lose sight of what is important when you en- JL: Oh, yes. A few days ago it was the birth- “Rihanna is the one who forced all the big, gage solely in the work and not think about day of my fraternity, and our colors are blue, big guys to pay attention,” Iman says. “She de- the why behind it. so I dressed in blue. In general, I try not to serves the credit, not only in beauty but also in After taking inventory of my life, I began wear a red tie for obvious reasons. One is the lingerie. Even just to say ‘I’m not doing the Su- to dive deep into the teachings of feminist guy down the road. per Bowl’ because of what is going on politi- and civil-rights activist Audre Lorde. One LB: Where do you keep your Presidential cally—it takes guts to put your money where of her most profound quotes is “Caring Medal of Freedom? your mouth is, and she can say anything she for myself is not self-indulgence. It is self- JL: After I was awarded it by President wants. It doesn’t matter if it’s contrary to pub- preservation, and that is an act of political Obama [in 2011], it was in a case at my home lic opinion, because if it’s true, it’s true.” warfare.” I took this to heart. I knew that to in Atlanta. But about two weeks ago we And this gives Iman both solace and hope. be able to weather the storm and take on a transferred it to a group who is putting it in As young people become more aware of their heavier workload, I had to be more gracious a case at the Atlanta airport to tell the story power, things begin to change. Looking at the with myself. of my life for anyone passing through who results of the midterm elections, she cited the Although it does seem that we wake up wants to hear about it. vastly diverse incoming members of Con- each morning to some sort of new scandal LB: What’s the first thing you do when you gress, including the first to wear a hijab, Ilhan or crisis, how we respond is our choice. And go home to Atlanta? Omar, a Somali-American from Minnesota. there is true power in our response. Our re- JL: Well, I have nine cats. A mother cat ad- “That’s democracy,” Iman says. “That’s what sponse can be life-giving, or it can be life- opted us, and she started having kittens. makes me excited. draining. I often feel as if I’ve been teetering They became an extension of the family. We “I’ve seen the highs and lows of not only between the two. But here’s what I can offer have doghouses for them to live in outside. I my personal life but also where I came from by way of advice: Do the work from a place of never thought growing up that one day I and what I ended up to be,” she says. “I be- joy. Find your commitment in your love of would be going to the supermarket every came a top model. I made money. I took care yourself as well as of those in your commu- two to three weeks to buy cat food. It’s not of my parents and brothers and sisters nity. Keep your family (whether it’s chosen cheap. I have people who go by and feed through their schooling, got married, had or otherwise) close. Those are ties you’ll them when I’m not there. children, and made more money. If I’m not need to call upon when the going gets tough. LB: Have you ever tried preaching to the cats? hopeful, who’s going to be?” n Nourish your spirit as much as possible, be JL: No, I just tell them not to fight. it through prayer or meditation. Take time LB: In the current climate what does free- to work out or just daydream. Stay con- dom mean to you? nected to the people and things that bring JL: Freedom means everything. People Saving the World you joy. must be free. We must be free to believe, to (Without Losing Myself) My line of work is not just a job; it’s a think. That’s why I have such a problem commitment, a lifestyle, a discipline. Tak- with this whole idea of a wall. We shouldn’t CONTINUED FROM PAGE 238 ing time for myself, as I did recently with a be building walls; we should be building of immigrants and feeling the internal pres- trip to Ghana with friends, means that I bridges to the rest of the world. As Dr. King

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