ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:30 Page 350 SOUTH RONALDSAY ACROSS THE CHURCHILL BARRIERS t h g i r y p o c n w o r C St Margaret’s Hope from the Pier Road marry Prince Edward, later The village was once known The Marine-Life Aquarium Edward II, of England. On as Rognvaldsvoe, and the St at Pool Farmhouse “offers a the death of her grandfather, Margaret of the present unique opportunity to see Alexander III of Scotland, name relates to an ancient and understand some Margaret had been pro- chapel so dedicated. aspects of the marine envi- claimed Queen of Scotland Whether this is the unfortu- ronment”. Live specimens and her early death was a nate little girl is open to of many of the species of large factor in the Wars of speculation, but the present fish and shellfish found Independence between kirk is certainly dedicated to locally are included in the SOUTH RONALDSAY Orkney. Ayre (ON Eyrr, a the shore very much as in Scotland and England. She a St Margaret. aquarium. (ON Rognvalds-ey, Rognvald's gravelly beach) in Orkney Stromness. The older build- was not interred in St Isle) is one of the most beau- means a sandy or gravelly ings mostly date from the Magnus Cathedral, but her tiful of all the Orkney spit of land enclosing a 17th and 18th centuries and body was shipped straight Islands and it has a charm of lagoon, which is open to the the character has not been back to Norway. its own. The island is divid- sea. Udal Law raises inter- spoilt by new building. The ed into six parishes, the esting questions about the pier, built in the 18th century Margaret was regarded as a inhabitants of which each ownership of this new land. for Lobster fishing, was saint in Norway afterwards, have their own nicknames. It busy before the Barriers but never officially, so it is is now joined to Burray by St Margaret’s Hope (ON were built with ferries and unlikely that the name refers the Ayre of Cara Hjop, bay) The picturesque cargo, and is now used to her. Apparently in 1329 a (ND478949) on the east side village of St Margaret's mainly by the car ferry Norwegian called Thore of Barrier No.4, which is the Hope lies in its sheltered which runs to Gills Bay in Haakonson, whose daughter only man-made ayre in bay, with houses built round Caithness as well small fish- had been married to the Conger Eel at the Marine-Life Aquarium ing boats and vessels which Regent of Norway at the Ayre of Cara where the sand has built up greatly since 1945 take divers to explore the time of the Maid's death, The Old Smiddy, St Margaret’s Hope wrecks of Scapa Flow. sold lands in South Ronaldsay. It is also known The Bay is not thought to be that Thore and his wife had named after the ill-fated accompanied the unfortu- Maid of Norway, Margaret, nate Margaret on her voy- who died in September age. The connection is tenu- 1290, either at sea or shortly ous at best. The word after arriving in Kirkwall "Hope" is Norse, and has from Bergen. Aged only nothing to do with the seven, she was on her way to English word "hope". 350 351 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:30 Page 352 SOUTH RONALDSAY ACROSS THE CHURCHILL BARRIERS The village also has one of saga. A fine circular walk the best eating places in runs around the Dam of Orkney, The Creel Inn and Hoxa to St Margaret’s Hope Restaurant. Alan and and back via the road past Joyce Craigie’s award-win- the school. The Wart on ning restaurant should not be top of Hoxa Hill missed by lovers of good (ND433935, 60m) is the site food. The en-suite rooms of a ruined chambered cairn have sea views. Intending and a modern “look out”. diners should reserve to avoid disappointment. Tel Hoxa Head The road con- (01856) 831311. tinues up the steep hill to the west of the Sand o’Wright The girls are the “horses” at the Boys’ Ploughing Match Balfour Battery at Hoxa Head mounted two twin 6-pounders Boys’ Ploughing Match In until it peters out at a small Old Smiddy The Old family from Quoybanks in August the Boys' Ploughing car park (ND408933) about efficient, but rather utilitari- World War II In 1939 the Smiddy in St Margaret’s Herston, after William Match is held. Traditionally 0.5km after the Hoxa an glass-fibre affair. Hoxa WWI battery was upgraded Hope is now a museum, Hourston bought it in 1905. this was held in spring, but it Tapestry Gallery, where Head was the site of major and rebuilt. The 6-inch th with many artefacts from the Making and repairing agri- was shifted to suit visitors Leila Thomson, weaves fortifications in both 20 mountings were re-used time when every area had its cultural implements and and weather. The peedie wonderful tapestries century wars and is strewn with the addition of observa- own blacksmith. It was built shoeing horses were the boys (and now girls as well) inspired by the rhythm of with military remains. tion towers, and more in 1880 and was run for two principal functions of the dress up as horses and life and landscape of searchlight enclosures were generations by the Hourston blacksmith. parade with their ploughmen Orkney, Tel (01856) World War I Four 4-inch built, as well as a large to be judged. After the 831395. There is a display quick-firing guns were camp. The battery was oper- The Boys’ Ploughing Match takes place at the Sand o’Wright parade, the boys and their of some of her tapestries and mounted here in 1915, fac- ational in September 1939, fathers or grandfathers pro- prints of her work can be ing west over Hoxa Sound. but working continued until ceed to the Sand o'Right purchased. Hoxa Head is The mountings and maga- 1942. The 6-in Mark VII (ND425935) and have a then a short walk from the zines with their protective BL guns here fired a 45kg ploughing match. car park. trenches can still be seen shell over 12.5km. today. The following year 2 This is an exact replica of The small lighthouse above 6-inch guns were placed on In May 1940 two 12- the ploughing matches still Scarf Skerry was first estab- the south tip of the headland pounders were emplaced popular among farmers lished in 1901 as a gas-pow- to cover Switha Sound. near the lighthouse to defend today. The miniature ered automatic. In 1996 the Four 24in searchlights and the boom. They were ploughs are often handed fine old cast-iron tower was an observation post complet- replaced by two twin 6- down for many generations dismantled and shipped to ed the battery. The Hoxa pounders at which time the and while the tradition only the Lighthouse Museum at Sound boom defence also battery was named Balfour survives in South Ronaldsay Kinnaird Head It was ended here in both wars. after Thomas Balfour, the now, there are records of replaced by a much more first commander of the similar events on other Hoxa Head lighthouse was replaced in 1996 4-inch gun mounting from WWI at Hoxa Head islands in the past. To the north of this bay, is the Howe of Hoxa (ON Haugs-eid, Mound Isthmus), a ruined broch (ND425940), where Earl Thorfinn Skull-splitter was buried about AD 963, according to the Orkneyinga 352 353 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:30 Page 354 SOUTH RONALDSAY ACROSS THE CHURCHILL BARRIERS interesting old church with Cara leads to the attractive pews which run the length of little bay of Honeysgeo with the building with the pulpit its sandy beach and slipway. on the east wall. This The headland of Grimness arrangement was formerly makes a pleasant walk in common, but there are very summer with its wild flow- few churches like this in ers and fine views to Orkney now. The area of Copinsay in the north and Paplay is likely to be anoth- the Pentland Skerries in the er place where there was an south. Skipi Geo has a fine “The Altar” at Harrabrough Head is a curious rock formation early Christian settlement. small sandy beach. During 19th century renova- Orkney & Shetland Harbour Porpoises often fre- “Irene” at Grimness in 1969 - the cause of the Longhope lifeboat disaster tions a Pictish symbol stone To the south the grim Fencibles in 1793. The twin quents the area. Other was found built into one of remains of the Irene still lit- 6-pounder had a rate of fire cetaceans are occasionally the windows as a lintel. ter the rocks. It was this ship of 120 rounds per minute also seen from here. whose distress calls and a range of 4,700m and There is the stone stump of launched the Longhope and was designed to defend Herston The village of an old windmill over the Kirkwall lifeboats on the against motor torpedo boats. Herston (ND420920), built graveyard wall. The nearby fateful night of 17th March Although the Hoxa guns for the Herring fishing about beach at Pool of Cletts and 1969. The “TGB” was cap- never saw action, a similar 1830, is a delightful spot, further south, Newark Bay, sized of South Ronaldsay battery destroyed five Italian while the Oyce of Herston is is very fine on a good sum- with the loss of all hands, MTBs at Valetta in 1941 in a good spot for waders and mer's day and can be spec- while the Irene drifted two minutes, suggesting that wildfowl.