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St Margaret’s Hope from the Pier Road marry Prince Edward, later The village was once known The Marine-Life Aquarium Edward II, of England. On as Rognvaldsvoe, and the St at Pool Farmhouse “offers a the death of her grandfather, Margaret of the present unique opportunity to see Alexander III of , name relates to an ancient and understand some Margaret had been pro- chapel so dedicated. aspects of the marine envi- claimed Queen of Scotland Whether this is the unfortu- ronment”. Live specimens and her early death was a nate little girl is open to of many of the species of large factor in the Wars of speculation, but the present fish and shellfish found Independence between kirk is certainly dedicated to locally are included in the . (ON Eyrr, a the shore very much as in Scotland and England. She a St Margaret. aquarium. (ON Rognvalds-ey, Rognvald's gravelly beach) in Orkney . The older build- was not interred in St Isle) is one of the most beau- means a sandy or gravelly ings mostly date from the Magnus Cathedral, but her tiful of all the Orkney spit of land enclosing a 17th and 18th centuries and body was shipped straight Islands and it has a charm of lagoon, which is open to the the character has not been back to Norway. its own. The island is divid- sea. raises inter- spoilt by new building. The ed into six parishes, the esting questions about the pier, built in the 18th century Margaret was regarded as a inhabitants of which each ownership of this new land. for Lobster fishing, was saint in Norway afterwards, have their own nicknames. It busy before the Barriers but never officially, so it is is now joined to by St Margaret’s Hope (ON were built with ferries and unlikely that the name refers the Ayre of Cara Hjop, bay) The picturesque cargo, and is now used to her. Apparently in 1329 a (ND478949) on the east side village of St Margaret's mainly by the car ferry Norwegian called Thore of Barrier No.4, which is the Hope lies in its sheltered which runs to in Haakonson, whose daughter only man-made ayre in bay, with houses built round as well small fish- had been married to the Conger Eel at the Marine-Life Aquarium ing boats and vessels which Regent of Norway at the Ayre of Cara where the sand has built up greatly since 1945 take divers to explore the time of the Maid's death, The Old Smiddy, St Margaret’s Hope wrecks of . sold lands in South Ronaldsay. It is also known The Bay is not thought to be that Thore and his wife had named after the ill-fated accompanied the unfortu- Maid of Norway, Margaret, nate Margaret on her voy- who died in September age. The connection is tenu- 1290, either at sea or shortly ous at best. The word after arriving in "Hope" is Norse, and has from Bergen. Aged only nothing to do with the seven, she was on her way to English word "hope".

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The village also has one of saga. A fine circular walk the best eating places in runs around the Dam of Orkney, The Creel Inn and Hoxa to St Margaret’s Hope Restaurant. Alan and and back via the road past Joyce Craigie’s award-win- the school. The Wart on ning restaurant should not be top of Hoxa Hill missed by lovers of good (ND433935, 60m) is the site food. The en-suite rooms of a ruined have sea views. Intending and a modern “look out”. diners should reserve to avoid disappointment. Tel Hoxa Head The road con- (01856) 831311. tinues up the steep hill to the west of the Sand o’Wright The girls are the “horses” at the Boys’ Ploughing Match Balfour Battery at Hoxa Head mounted two twin 6-pounders Boys’ Ploughing Match In until it peters out at a small Old Smiddy The Old family from Quoybanks in August the Boys' Ploughing car park (ND408933) about efficient, but rather utilitari- World War II In 1939 the Smiddy in St Margaret’s Herston, after William Match is held. Traditionally 0.5km after the Hoxa an glass-fibre affair. Hoxa WWI battery was upgraded Hope is now a museum, Hourston bought it in 1905. this was held in spring, but it Tapestry Gallery, where Head was the site of major and rebuilt. The 6-inch th with many artefacts from the Making and repairing agri- was shifted to suit visitors Leila Thomson, weaves fortifications in both 20 mountings were re-used time when every area had its cultural implements and and weather. The peedie wonderful tapestries century wars and is strewn with the addition of observa- own blacksmith. It was built shoeing horses were the boys (and now girls as well) inspired by the rhythm of with military remains. tion towers, and more in 1880 and was run for two principal functions of the dress up as horses and life and landscape of searchlight enclosures were generations by the Hourston blacksmith. parade with their ploughmen Orkney, Tel (01856) World War I Four 4-inch built, as well as a large to be judged. After the 831395. There is a display quick-firing guns were camp. The battery was oper- The Boys’ Ploughing Match takes place at the Sand o’Wright parade, the boys and their of some of her tapestries and mounted here in 1915, fac- ational in September 1939, fathers or grandfathers pro- prints of her work can be ing west over Hoxa Sound. but working continued until ceed to the Sand o'Right purchased. Hoxa Head is The mountings and maga- 1942. The 6-in Mark VII (ND425935) and have a then a short walk from the zines with their protective BL guns here fired a 45kg ploughing match. car park. trenches can still be seen shell over 12.5km. today. The following year 2 This is an exact replica of The small lighthouse above 6-inch guns were placed on In May 1940 two 12- the ploughing matches still Scarf Skerry was first estab- the south tip of the headland pounders were emplaced popular among farmers lished in 1901 as a gas-pow- to cover Sound. near the lighthouse to defend today. The miniature ered automatic. In 1996 the Four 24in searchlights and the boom. They were ploughs are often handed fine old cast-iron tower was an observation post complet- replaced by two twin 6- down for many generations dismantled and shipped to ed the battery. The Hoxa pounders at which time the and while the tradition only the Lighthouse Museum at Sound boom defence also battery was named Balfour survives in South Ronaldsay Kinnaird Head It was ended here in both wars. after Thomas Balfour, the now, there are records of replaced by a much more first commander of the similar events on other Hoxa Head lighthouse was replaced in 1996 4-inch gun mounting from WWI at Hoxa Head islands in the past.

To the north of this bay, is the Howe of Hoxa (ON Haugs-eid, Mound Isthmus), a ruined (ND425940), where Earl Thorfinn Skull-splitter was buried about AD 963, according to the Orkneyinga

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interesting old church with Cara leads to the attractive pews which run the length of little bay of Honeysgeo with the building with the pulpit its sandy beach and slipway. on the east wall. This The headland of Grimness arrangement was formerly makes a pleasant walk in common, but there are very summer with its wild flow- few churches like this in ers and fine views to Orkney now. The area of in the north and Paplay is likely to be anoth- the in the er place where there was an south. Skipi Geo has a fine “The Altar” at Harrabrough Head is a curious rock formation early Christian settlement. small sandy beach. During 19th century renova- Orkney & Harbour Porpoises often fre- “Irene” at Grimness in 1969 - the cause of the Longhope lifeboat disaster tions a Pictish symbol stone To the south the grim Fencibles in 1793. The twin quents the area. Other was found built into one of remains of the Irene still lit- 6-pounder had a rate of fire cetaceans are occasionally the windows as a lintel. ter the rocks. It was this ship of 120 rounds per minute also seen from here. whose distress calls and a range of 4,700m and There is the stone stump of launched the Longhope and was designed to defend Herston The village of an old windmill over the Kirkwall lifeboats on the against motor torpedo boats. Herston (ND420920), built graveyard wall. The nearby fateful night of 17th March Although the Hoxa guns for the Herring fishing about beach at Pool of Cletts and 1969. The “TGB” was cap- never saw action, a similar 1830, is a delightful spot, further south, Newark Bay, sized of South Ronaldsay battery destroyed five Italian while the Oyce of Herston is is very fine on a good sum- with the loss of all hands, MTBs at Valetta in 1941 in a good spot for waders and mer's day and can be spec- while the Irene drifted two minutes, suggesting that wildfowl. Harraborough Clett of Crura and Hesta Rock, Windwick, scene of a WWI naval disaster tacular when there is a big ashore below Grimness. Its they would indeed have Head (ND415905), with the easterly sea running. Above crew were rescued without Hill (ND455887, 118m) is are nearly 90m high at Hesta been effective if the peculiar “altar” feature, is an the beach modern standing incident by breeches buoy even better. A coastal Head to the north. This is Germans had attempted such excellent place to see stone was put up to celebrate from the shore. defence radar site in World also a good place for finding a raid on Scapa Flow. Puffins. A coastal path runs the Millennium, while fur- War II, this remains an migrant birds when the con- north to Herston and south ther up the hill the Sorquoy South Parish Further south important communications ditions are right. It was here There are panoramic views to Sand Wick, where a fine Stone may be 5,000 years on the island there are site. in January 1918 that two from the Pentland to standing stone overlooks the older. It is one of Orkney’s panoramic views from the British destroyers ran into Scapa Flow from here. bay. A ruined broch, tallest at over 4m high. It is car park at the top of Olad Windwick is a bay south- the cliffs at full tilt, with Good fishing can be had off “Weems Castle”, guards the also known as the Papley Brae (ON A-flot, flat east of Olad Brae with a only one survivor. the rocks, as the shore is south side. Stone. ground beside a burn ruined chapel dedicated to St steep-to and a strong tide East Side Overlooking the ND445879, 87m), beside an Andrew. Grey Seals come The coastal walk southwards runs past. Perhaps for this Pool of Cletts, St Peter's Grimness The road imme- indicator panel. The view ashore to pup in autumn near to the reason a small pod of Kirk (ND470909), is an diately south of the Ayre of from the top of the Ward here below the cliffs, which passes dramatic cliff St Peter’s Kirk retains the old layout with the pulpit on the south wall Pictish symbol stone from St Peter’s The beach at the Poll of Cletts is very attractive Standing stone above Sand Wick

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are good views across the OVER THE BARRIERS to the ATTRACTIONS Pentland Skerries and Caithness. Off Old Head, where two tides meet, the seas can be spectacularly Lobster Hatchery rough. WWII gunsite At Castle of Burwick (ND435842), there are Weddel Sound beaches remains of ramparts and BURRAY ditches on the narrow piece The Brough of Burwick is a coastal defensive structure Blacksmith WS Mowatt at his smiddy West and East Brochs of land connecting the small scenery. At Halcro Head Company's Governors, hav- John o’Groats Ferry The The boat serving the WWII gunsite headland to South (ND474856, 64m) there is a ing started as a lowly "Bay passenger ferry, which runs Pentland Skerries lighthouse Echnaloch Ronaldsay. Traces of struc- Gloup, a partially collapsed Boy". Tomison was buried in the summertime to John was based in the tarred shed Fossil & Vintage Centre tures dating from the 1st mil- cave, while there are a series in his own garden at Dundas o'Groats, departs from the near St Mary’s Kirk for St Laurence Kirk lennium BC may be a ruined of large geos in the cliffs to House, across the road. Ferry Terminal at Burwick, many years. A very strong Bu Sands broch. the south. The energetic can taking about 45 minutes to tide rips past the Lother continue round the coast to Mowatt’s Smiddy was built cross. Buses meet all cross- Rock at the mouth of this Beach at no.4 Barrier St Mary's Church, the site Burwick. Liddel Loch is a in 1862, and has now been ings. Cetaceans such as bay and spectacular seas of one of the earliest chapels SOUTH RONALDSAY good place to see waders renovated, having been run Killer Whales, other species break here in a storm. A in Orkney, has an interesting and wildfowl. Very little by the same family for four of dolphins and Harbour light beacon on top of a 12m Ayre of Cara old graveyard. Inside there now remains of the broch at generations. Apart from a Porpoises may sometimes be tower was installed on it in Honeysgeo is a curious stone with a pair Brough on the east side of fascinating collection of seen from the ferry. 1910. Marine-Life Aquarium of footprints carved in it, Burwick. tools and blacksmith’s arte- Grimness which is said to have come facts, it is also licensed for St Margaret’s Hope from Caithness. Several Tomison's Academy weddings. Old Smiddy interesting old tombstones (ND857445), an imposing Creel Restaurant add to the atmosphere of this disused school at the south Walk A circular walk from Pottery interesting old kirk, the key end of the island, was built Burwick past the old Craft Workshop to which is available nearby. on the bequest of William Coastguard lookout and Sand o’Right In 1627 a report to Bishop Tomison (1739-1829), who returning via Liddle Farm Howe of Hoxa Graham mentions a St made a fortune working for can take in the Tomb of the Hoxa Tapestry Gallery Colmis Chapel at the Loch the Hudson's Bay Company Eagles and the nearby Burnt Hoxa Head of Burwick, but this has now in Northern Canada, eventu- Mound, returning to Widewall Bay disappeared. ally being made one of the Burwick via the road. There Herston The Lother Rock and the Pentland Firth Harrabrough Head St Mary’s Kirk, Burwick is on one of the oldest Christian sites in Orkney Stone with incised “feet” Sand Wick WHEEMS Orkney Stone St Peter’s Kirk Company Pool of Cletts BOTHY Windwick Eastside, South Traditional skills are use to hand Tomison’s Academy work Orkney Flagstone. Mowatt’s Smiddy Ronaldsay KW17 2TJ Mirrors, plates & water features. Tel (01856) 831537 Commissions welcome. Tomb of the Eagles Liddle burnt mound Small Hostel on an Viewforth, St Mary’s Kirk Organic Farm with a Felt & St Margaret’s Hope Castle of Burwick Print Artist’s Studio. Tel/Fax (01856)831462 Burwick Produce for sale. www.orkneystone.com

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antiquity and the roof The southern compartment destroyed. The doorways to had a floor made from a sim- the side-cells and the ilar large stone with heaped entrance passage has X- bones but no skulls. The shaped stones placed across space below it which was them to stop ingress of rub- filled with human and eagle ble. One male burial was bones. There is also a shelf, found within this in-fill about 1.2m above the floor. along with 15 talons and The west wall survives to a bones of a Sea Eagle. height of over 2m without corbelling, and is bowed The cairn from the south - it overlooks a rugged and rocky coast Eventually he fully excavat- slightly outwards between The exterior from the northeast before being roofed over ed the tomb. The archaeolo- the orthostats. It seems that The Tomb of the Eagles the farmer, Ronald Simison, 1.7m and women 1.6m and cilla), in association with the gist, John Hedges later took the tomb may have been (ND469843) is a in 1958. While looking for a while they muscles were human bones. The birds the study of the many arte- built in several stages over chambered cairn, and one suitable rock from which to well developed, nearly half may well have been of spe- facts. Apart from the north- several centuries. Work the very few to have been quarry a stone strainer post, suffered from osteoarthritis. cial importance to these peo- east cell, which had been seems to have started here excavated in recent times. he became curious about ple, and perhaps symbolised broken into previously, the about 3150 BC and the tomb Now covered by a protective some stones which were Sea Eagles Particularly the group, as dogs seem to contents were mostly intact. may have been in use for as concrete dome, this impres- sticking out of a mound interesting was the discov- have done to those buried at The main chamber is about long as 800 years. sive cairn resembles the one overlooking the coast. After ery of the carcasses and Cuween in Firth. They may 8m long and is divided into at Unstan in . Both a little digging he found the about 70 talons of at least 10 also have been part of the three stalls by two pairs of Skull & Bones Skulls and are “hybrid” cairns, with courses of a wall. White-tailed Sea Eagles excarnation rites. Most of orthostats. The backs of the piles of bones line the sides stalled main chambers like (ON Erne, Haliaeetus albi- the human bones were end compartments are of the main chamber, and the Orkney-Cromarty type , Nearby were several finely formed from large upright there was a large pile of bro- but also with side-cells of made artefacts including a flagstones. Another, smaller ken pottery facing the the type. beautiful small mace head, a upright stone set into the entrance passage. The two The tomb was discovered by stone knife, three polished floor separates the spaces. western side cells had many stone axes, a broken cannel skulls inside but little else. coal ring and a polished Analysis of over 16,000 albertite button. The nearest human bones suggested that source of these minerals in at least 338 people were the coast, or perhaps buried here. Few had lived Brora, where coal was to more than 28, and only mined until recently. 5% reached 40. The break- down was 185 adults, 62 The cairn had been deliber- teenagers, 70 children and ately infilled with rocks in South end compartment One of the many skulls 24 babies. Men averaged Sea Eagle bones and talons recovered from the tomb R Simison points out where he discovered the tomb Skulls in one of the side-cells before removal The first artefacts found on the north side of the mound White-tailed Sea Eagle (Haliaeetus albicilla)

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found. For the whole of this Liddle Burnt Mound On period it shines in at around the way to the Tomb of the 05:30. Interestingly sunrise Eagles is Liddle Burnt is visible throughout the Mound (ND465841). This year from here. consists of an oval building, within which is a big hearth, The outside of the cairn is and a large central water- D-shaped, and has a diame- tight trough. The burnt ter of about 31m, the west mound was built up by the side being built into the side dumping of many cracked, of a natural mound. It is fired stones and ash. There encased in rubble supported were very few artefacts by stone walls. Much of the besides a few pieces of poor Interior of the tomb from the south end,the entrance is in the centre The burnt mound near Liddle east side has been lost to the pottery. weathered, suggesting that Pottery The 26kg of pottery sea. meat in the up to . They are they were placed in the cairn remains included at least 46 The trough appears to have the 18th century. nearly always sited close to only after the flesh had broken pots. The museum at Liddle is been used for boiling joints water sources. They may gone. They seem to have been bro- fascinating. Not only can of meat, the water being Dating from the late Bronze also have been used as ken outside and burnt before skulls, tools and other arte- heated using stones from the Age, the early 1st millenni- saunas or bath houses. This Large numbers of sheep and being deposited inside. facts be examined in a way fire. Lacking strong cook- um BC, this site has thrown one is unusual in having the cattle bones from joints of Tools including a stone not possible anywhere else, ing pots, but with plenty of light on the probable func- remains of a building around meat rather than whole ani- ploughshare, or ard, and but the original excavator peat for fuel, the same tion of the several hundred the trough and hearth. mals as well as many fish hammerstones were found and his family tell the story. method was used to cook such burnt mounds in the bones were also present. as well as parts of limpet Plant remains included seeds shells which may have been of Emmer Wheat, both a necklace. hulled and naked 6-row Barley and many weeds of The entrance passage runs at cultivation. a slight angle to the main chamber and survives to a SOUTH RONALDSAY, length of 4m. It is about Sea Eagle talons ORKNEY• Family-run museum - 70cm wide and 80cm high ideas about life in Neolithic & Bronze with a huge lintel at the Age Orkney inner end, which is 1.5m • Handle 5000 year-old artefacts long. At sunrise in late April • Visit the Neolithic tomb in its mag- and mid-August the sun nificent clifftop setting shines directly down the Composite plan of the Tomb of the Eagles • Discover the Bronze Age burnt passage and lights up the mound and its secrets Interior from the north, the entrance is on the left • Refreshments and Orkney crafts for Button and broken ring area where the pottery was Stone cleaver sale • Allow 2 hours for a relaxed visit Unstan Ware pottery Unstan Ware pottery • OPEN ALL YEAR

March - 10:00 - 12:00 April-October – 09.30-18:00 Nov-Feb – visitors welcome by arrangement • ADMISSION CHARGE

www.tomboftheeagles.co.uk Tel. 01856 831339

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