284 INDEX

Bennet, Glin: his book, Beyond Endurance, Index 241 1984 Vol89 Compiled by W. L. Robinson Bennett, Maurice: art. 'ABMSAC - The First 75 Years', 179 Benuzzi, Felice: his book, Mattia Aconcagua,157 Zurbriggen, 250 Acute Mountain Sickness: pulmonary Berry, Geoffrey: his book, A Tale oJ Two and cerebral oedema, 68 Lakes, 248 Adams, Mike: art. 'N. Andean Butterflies Bhagirathi I, 189 - Search and Research', 90 Bielun, Andrzej Napoleon, 21 Africa 1983,228 Bogda II, 195 Aiguilledu Midi, 126 Bokalik Tagh, 185 Alaska, 221 Bonington, Chris: arts. 'China 1983', 193, Alcock, David with Wilson K. and Barry and 'Antarctica - Mt. Vinson', 220; J.: their book, Cold Climbs, 244 with C. Clarke, their book, Everest: The Alien, Charles: his book, A Mountain in Ullclimbed Ridge, 237 Tibet, 248 Bolivia, 227 Alpine Climbing Group, 279 Borneo, 190 Alpine Club: Notes, 276, Meetings, Meets Boscacci arid others: their book, Montaglle & Exhibitions, 277/8, Library, 279 di Valtellina e Valchiavenna, 245 Alpine Guidebook Notes, 230 Brett, David: his book, High Level, 252 Alps, 121 Britannia Hut, Saas Fee, 180 Amjik,81 Bmad Peak, 11, 184,213 Ancohuma, 188 Brown, Hamish: his poems, Time Gentle- Andes, 161, 188 men, 251; poem 'Music' Angmagssalik Fjord, 104 Bruce (Mount), W. Australia, 178 Annapurna I, 11 and Fang: First Ascents, Blihler, Veli, 21 184/6 Burgess, Adrian: 59 and art. 'Himalayan Antarctica, 97, Mt. Vinson, 220 Winter Climbing', 207 Ararat,145 Burns, Mike: art. 'One-man Expeditions Arctic, Canadian, 221 and their Problems', 168 Area Notes, 191 Butterflies, N. Andean, 90 Aris, Michael: his book, Views oJMediaeval Bhutan, 238 Astronomy, 173 Canadian Arctic, 221 Atole,35 Canary Islands, 175 Cappon, M.: his book, Rock and lee Climb­ Bakalarski,Jozef,51 ing,247 Baldwin, Miriam: art. 'The Biancograt', Cerro 1'01010 (Chile), 178 138 Cheney, Mike: art. 'Notes for Expeditions Barnaj, Nala, 35 to Nepal', 203 Barratt, Geoffrey: obit., 263 Chile, 178,227 Barry, John: art. 'Cold Climbing in China 1983, 193 Cymru', 165; with Wilson K. and Chobani La, 35 Alcock D.: their book Cold Climbs, 244 Chogolisa, 186 Bartlett, Philip: art. 'Area Notes', 191 Cholatse, 189 Batura Muztagh 1,185 Chomolonzo, 185 Bazhin Glacier, 21 ChoOyu,184 Beckey, Fred: his book, Mountains r!f N. Cielicki, Krzystof, 51 America, 247 Cichy, Leszek, 51 Beechey Island, 108 Clarke, Charles with C. Bonington: their Bell, J. A. H.: poems 'The Glacier' and book, Everest: The Unclimbed Ridge, 237 'Wanderlust: The Glacier Anemone', Clinch, Nicholas: his book, A Walk ill the 112 Sky, 249 Bellows, Grace: her book, A Genius Jor Cochlin; Peter, 50 Friendship, 248 Col du Peigne, 134,230 Bennet, Donald: his guide, The Western Collister, Rob: art. 'Adventure versus the Highlands, 253 Mountain', 123 INDEX 285

Collomb, Robin: his guide, Picos de Europa, Gajewski, Ryszard, 51 255 Galhar,35 Colombia, 226 Gallas F. E.: his book, Land Search & Rescue, Crocket, Ken: art. 'Scotland 1981-3',216 252 Cuthbertson, Dave: his guide, Creag Dubh , 11, Ill, IV, First Ascents, and Craig-a-Barns, 254 184/5; art. on G.II, 16 Czerwinska, Anka, 12 Georgiana, Duchess ofDevonshire, 141 Gifford, Nigel: his book, Expeditions & Daffern, Tony: his book, Avalanche Saje!) Exploration, 240 jor Skiers and Climhers, 242 Gongga, 195 Dangar, D. F. 0.: art. 'A Record of the Gosainthan, 184 First Ascents of the Fifty Highest Graham Land, 97 Mountains', 184 Grassi, G. C.: his book, Le Grand Paradiset Dawson, Dr Penny and Uhrig, DrJamie: les Valies du Lanzo, 250 art. 'Sherpas and Sickness', 80 Greenland, 188; E. Coast, 104; 1983,222 Demmel, Valentin, 21 Griffin, A. H.; his book, Adventuring in Desio, M.: his book, , ~rso il Cielo, 247 Lakeland, 246 Desmaison, Rene: his book, Total Alpinism, Griffin, Lindsay: arts. 'The Traverse of 245 Kangde Shar', 40; 'Twenty-four Hours Dhaulagiri I, 11, Ill, IV, V, 184/6 in Trevelez', 116; 'Alpine Guidebook Dickinson, Leo: his film, Eiger, 257 Notes', 230 Diemberger, Kurt: art. 'Under the Spell of Grossen, Hans: his book, L'Oberland K2 and Gasherbrum', 16 Bemois,250 Dingle, Graeme and P. Hillary: their book, Gurla Mandhata, 185 First Across the Rooj the World, 240 if Gyachung Kang, 185 , 185 Dmoch, Ryszard, 51 Hagshu Kishtwar, 189 Doubrawa-Cochlin, Ingeborga, 50 Hall, Brian: art. 'Nepal 1983', 197 Duff, Mal: art. 'Riders of the Storm - The W. Ridge ofThamserku', 47 Hamilton (Mountain), 178 Hargreaves, Alison Jane: art. 'Small Dunottar glacier, 188 Faces, Big Dreams', 126 Eales, C. M. D.: obit., 258 Hawaii, 175 Echevarria, Evelio: art. 'So America 1983', Heinrich, Zygmunt, 51 224 Hillary, Peter with G. Dingle: their book, Editor's Notes, 279 First Across the Roojifthe World, 240 Egeler, Prof. Dr C. G.: obit., 273 Himalaya, 189; Winter Climbing, 207; Ellsworth Mountains, Sentinel Range, 97 Indian H-, 208 Everett, Roger, 44 Himal Chuli, 185 Everest: First Ascent, 184; First Winter Hoare, Rick: art. 'Blubber and Boats', 104 Ascent, 50; book on geology &c, 250; Holnicke-Szulc,Jan,51 book on Chinese ascent, 249; book, The Hopkirk, Peter: his book, Trespassers on the Unclimbed Ridge, 237 Roofof the World, 248 Mt. Everest Foundation: Notes 1982/3, Hrindi,81 188; Nepal, 200 Hunt, Alan: art. 'A Traverse of the Fairley,John: art. 'To a Louse', 9; Editor's Kishtwar Himalaya', 35 Notes, 279 Fang (Annapurna), 186 Ikerasagssuag Fjord, 106 Finsteraarhorn, 129, 232 India 1983,208 First Ascents of the Fifty Highest Moun­ Insurance, 280 tains,184 Ireland, 254/5 Fischesser, B.: his book, La Vie de la Mon­ tagne,246 J anik, Robert, 51 Fiut, Walenty, 51 Jankowski, Bogdan, 51 Fordham, Derek: arts. 'To the Place of Jannu,185 Graves', 108; 'Greenland 1983', 222 Jatunhuma I, 188 Fraser, Simon: art. 'The Exploration ofthe Jaworski, Stanislaw, 51 Antarctic Peninsula', 97 Jian Shi I and 11,195 ~86 INDEX

K2, 16, 247; N. face, 18; 1st Ascent, 184 Moores, Paul: art. 'Five Miles High Kamet, 185 Without Oxygen', 59 Kanchenjunga, 184 Morse, R. G.: his book, The Naked Moun- Kangchungtse (Makalu I1), 186 tain,249 Kangde Shar, 40 Mulhacen, 119 Karigpengin, 194 Miinchenbach, Hartmut, 21 Kanjut Sar, 185 Mustagh Ata, 195/6 1983,212 Kashmit; 190 Nadir, Capt., 21 Khinyang Chhish, 185 Namcha Barwa, 185 Kinabulu, 189 Nanda Devi, 185 Kirstein, Waiter: obit., 269 Nanga Parbat: E. Pillar, 21; S. Summit, Kishtwar: K-Shivling, 30; K-Himalaya, 28; 1st Ascent, 184; Rupal Flank, 249; 35; K-Hagshu, 189 50th Anniversary of 1st German Kohli, Capt M. S.: his book, The Expedition, 21 Himalayas. Playgrounds oj the Gods, 241 Nepal: 1983, 197; Guidelines and Notes Komprej, Irena: art. 'Aconcagua S. for Expeditions and Travellers, 200/206 Face', 157 Nerpa,81 Kongur,185 Nevado Veronica, 161, 188 Kunde Hospital, 80 New Zealand, 249, 255 Kusterman, Doris; 21 Nisbet, Andy: art. 'Winter Climbing on Kusum Kangru (Khumbu Himal), 189 the Peigne, Scottish Style', 134 Norbu, Pasang, 51 Norbu, Pemba, 51 Lama, 81 Nunn, Paul: art. 'Karakoram 1983',212 La Palma, 175 Nuptse,185 Lee, Dorothy 1.: obit., 260 'utara, Elijah, 108 Leopold III of Belgium, King: obit., 260 Lepidoptera, 90 Oedema: pulmonary and cerebral, 68 Lesniak, Eddie: his Yorkshire GritstollC, 255 Olech, Kazimierz, 51 Lhawa, 81 One-man Expeditions, 168 Lhotse: First Ascent, 11l4; W. Face, 59,189 Oropolitics, 74 Llihirini, 188 Palmer Land, 97 Logan, Hugh: his The Mount Cook Guide- Palmowska, Krystyna: art. 'Broad Peak', book, 255 II Lunn, Peter: his GuinllCss Book rif Skiing, 252 Palomar Mountain, 178 Lu,81 Papua New Guinea, 190 . Lwow, Aleksander, 51 Parker, J. w.: his book, Scramble;·i~ Skye, Lynam,joss: his guide, Irish Peaks, 255 253 Pasu Peak, 186 Machail,35 Pawlikowski, Maciej, 51 MacInnes, Hamish: his guide, Scottish Peak, 29, 185 Winter Climbs, 255 Peaker, G. F.: obit., 264 Maczka,janusz,51 Pearl, Susan Warren: obit., 268 Makalu, 184and 186 Peck, Edward: art. 'Mt. Everest Foun- Maladetta, 85 dation Notes 1982/3', 188 Manaslu, 184 Penning, Tony: his guide, Wyndclifje, 255 Masherbrum, 185 Pepper, 1. R.: obit., 259 Matterhorn, 113 Peru, 2.26 Mauna Kea (Hawaii), 175 Phola Gangchhen, 186 McInnes, Bennet: art. 'Astronomy from Piekutowski, Marian, 51 Mountains', 173 Piotrowski, Tadeusz, 21 Meru, 190 Podgornik, Peter, 157 Milburn, Geoff.: his guide, Stanage Mill- Polar Regions 1983, 220 stollC,253 Pollitt, Andy: his book, N. Wales. New Milledge, j. S.: art. 'Acute Mountain Climbs, 253 _ Sickness', 68 Poucher, W. A.: his photos, The Highlands Moffat, Gwen: her book, Dielikeado.l!" 247 ojScotland and The Alps, 251 INDEX 287

Pyatt, Edward: art. 'The Matterhorn Taweche, 189 Image', 113; his book, The National Temple, Philip: his book, Castles in the Air, Physical Laboratory - A History, 247 249 Templeman, GeofTrey: compilations, Qogir, 194 'Book Reviews, 1983', 237; 'In Rakaposhi, 185 Memoriam', 258 Rakoncaj,Joska, 18 Tenerife, 174 de Ranitz, Dr C.]. A.: obit., 263 Tenzing, Ningma, 51 RebufTat, Gaston: his books, Le Massif des Thamserku, 4·7; W. Ridge, 189 Ecrins, '250 and Cervin, 251 Thexton, Peter: obit., 270 Regmi, Bishow Nath, 51 Thorpe, T. A.: obit., 258 Renshaw, Dick, 30 Tilman, H. \V.: his omnibus book, 238 Reynolds, Kev: art. 'Not the Accursed Tirich Mir, 186 Mountain', 84; his book, Mountains rlj Town, John: art. 'Ararat Revisited', 145 the Pyrenees, 242 Trevelez, 116 RiefTel, Robert: his guide, Nepal Namaste, Trivor, 185 250 Tullis,Julie,18 Ritter, Schorsch, 21 Tyssen-Gee, Robert: obit., 271 Roger, George: obit., 274 Rosenkranz,Jorg,21 Uhrig, DrJamie and Dawson, Dr Penny: Rosser, Mike: art. 'Gwent Indian Ex­ art. 'Sherpas and Sickness', 80 pedition 1983', l61 U.K. Infra-Red Telescope, 175 Royal Observatory, Edinburgh, 173 Ulugh Muztagh, 185 Russell, C. A.: art. 'One Hundred Years Underhill, Robert L. M.: obit., 266 Ago', 63 Ryan, Tom: his guide (Ireland), New Veleta, 117 Climbs 1982, 254 Venables, Stephen: arts. 'Shivling Salcantay, 188 (Kishtwar)', 30; 'Finsteraarhorn - A Sal toro Kangri, 185 Wimer Expedition', 129; 'The Indian Sanseverino, J.: art. 'The Inexhaustible Himalaya - An Historic Appraisal', Alps', 121 208 Saser Kangri, 186 Venezuela, 224 Scarpellini, Gianni; 18 Schulman, M. and others: their book, Wales, 165 Fontainbleau Escalades et Randonnees, 246 Warren, Charles: art. 'An Alpine Biblio- Scotland 1981-3,216 graphical Curiosity', 141 Scatt, Michael: art. 'Africa 1983 - S.A. Warrumbungle Mountains, NSW, 175 Rock Climbing', 228 Watson, Sir Norman: obit., 272 Sella, Vittorio: catalogue ofhis photos, 250 Wielicki, Krzystof, 51 Shahkangsham, 186 Wilson, Ken with Alcock, D. and Barry, Sherpas: Sickness and Beliefs, 80 J.: their book, Cold Climbs, 244 Shisha Pangma, 184, 195 \Vomer, Stefan, I1 (Pasu Peak), 186 Wyss-Dunant, Dr E.: obit., 262 Shivling (Kishtwar) N face, 30 Sickness (Mountain), 68; (Sherpas), 80 Xixabangma, 184, 195; W. Peak, 195 Siguniang, 195 Sircar,Joydeep: art. 'Oropolitics', 74 Yendon, Nawang, 51 Snellgrove, David: his book, Himalayan Pilgrimage, 239 Zanga, Pierangelo, 18 South African Rock Climbing, 228 Zanskar, 190 South America 1983, 224 Zawada, Andrzej: art. 'Mt. Everest - Sutherland (S. Africa), 178 The First Winter Ascent', 50 Switzerland - 'ABMSAC - The First Zeitz, DrJoachim, 21 75 Years', 179 Zhangzi, 195 Szafirski, Ryszard, 51 Zurek, Krzystof, 51