CALVIN’S NEW COLOR LINE/2 ST. JOHN LANDS JOLIE?/12 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • September 13, 2005 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Box Score NEW YORK — With characteristic elegance, Oscar de la Renta hit all the right minimalist notes for spring. Staying true to the chic, sophisticated looks his audience has come to love and expect, the designer offered beautiful dresses with quiet details and suits with just a touch of sportif, such as he did here in this cropped jacket with oversized buttons and pants. For more on the spring shows, see pages 6 to 13. Reading the Tea Leaves: As Saks Inc. Nears Deal, SFA Speculation Swirls By Vicki M. Young and David Moin NEW YORK — The fate of Saks Fifth Avenue is still in limbo. As its parent, Saks Inc., inches closer to shedding its northern department store group — most likely to Bon-Ton — and Club Libby Lu division, speculation continues to swirl over the future ownership of its crown jewel, SFA. And there’s a new wrinkle to the plot: Banking sources said that, if Saks Inc. sells both the northern stores and SFA, chairman R. Brad Martin would still hold onto the reins of the 41-store Parisian chain. See SFA, Page44 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2005 WWD.COM Calvin Klein Signs Markwins Deal WWDTUESDAY By Julie Naughton an equal number globally. The new cosmetics line is in- Ready-to-Wear/Textiles NEW YORK — For Calvin Klein, tended to complement Calvin it’s cosmetics, round two. Klein’s core bridge apparel and Calvin Klein Inc.’s president accessories lines, and as such, FASHION and chief operating officer, Tom said Murry, the product line will The New York shows continued with strong collections from Oscar de la Murry, told WWD Monday after- be fashioned to appeal to a multi- 6 Renta, Carolina Herrera and Diane von Furstenberg. noon during an exclusive inter- cultural, fashion-forward con- view that CKI will reintroduce sumer. More than 300 stockkeep- GENERAL the Calvin Klein cosmetics line ing units — ranging from founda- As Saks Inc. inches closer to shedding its northern department store and for spring 2007, working with tions, eye shadows and lipsticks Club Libby Lu units, speculation swirls over the future of Saks Fifth Avenue. Southern California-based Mark- to mascara and nail polish — are 1 wins International. The line will expected to comprise the initial EYE: Behnaz Sarafpour grabs some celebrity spotlight…Three exhibitions be branded under the cK Calvin line. One aspect of the collection 4 in New York trumpet fashion as art…Chic of the Show: Veronica Webb. Klein Beauty name. This con- will be a core group of signature Donna Karan is looking to intensify its Pure DKNY label with in-store shops, firms a report that appeared on products that will be a constant 14 and accessories, shoes and men’s joining women’s and home collections. May 11. in the line. The second aspect The first incarnation of the will be groupings of trend-driven RTW: Fashion insiders offered differing opinions on how Hurricane Katrina Calvin Klein cosmetics line had colors that will change from sea- 18 will affect Americans’ desire to shop and the disaster’s economic impact. been introduced in 2000 by son to season. As well, there will Unilever Cosmetics International, be a line created that will be ex- Obituary ..................................................................................................29 which then held Klein’s beauty li- Neutrals, as seen in this ad, are clusively distributed in travel-re- Classified Advertisements ..................................................................46-47 cense. While the products were expected to play a role in the new line. tail doors globally. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is praised by retailers, the distribu- Murry said an “internationally [email protected], using the individual’s name. tion was never expanded past its known” makeup artist will front initial 120 doors worldwide. That the line, but declined to say who, WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2005 BEAUTY BEAT FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. first line was phased out in 2003, saying that the deal has not yet VOLUME 190, NO. 57. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional when its sales were estimated at Markwins will maintain a been finalized. An announcement issue in June, July and November, two additional issues in April, May, August and December, and three additional issues in February, March, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL about $15 million retail. Klein’s showroom featuring the cosmet- is expected within the next two to OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., fragrance license was subse- ics at its headquarters in South- three weeks regarding the artist. Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill quently acquired in May by Coty. ern California, and Markwins af- Eric S. Chen, chairman and Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice-President_General In 2003, Murry said Calvin filiates also will operate similar chief executive of Markwins, said Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Klein — now a wholly owned showrooms in New York and key in a statement, “We expect to cap- Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: subsidiary of Phillips-Van markets in Europe and Asia. CKI italize on Calvin Klein’s success- SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS Heusen — “would continue to will stay very involved with prod- ful global portfolio.” CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North talk to a number of potential uct and distribution directions, Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four partners about continuing and said Murry, who added that pric- weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West expanding this business.” ing is expected to be on a par Clairol Taps Hatcher 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221- 9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit On Monday afternoon, he said with the first line — roughly $14 NEW YORK — Clairol has tapped www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products that, while it took awhile to settle to $50 at retail. “Desperate Housewives” star and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail on the right partner, he was con- Murry noted that Markwins, Teri Hatcher to be the face of its and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED fident that CKI had found one which markets a line of color cos- iconic Nice ’n Easy hair color MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND capable of making the cosmetics metics under its own name in the brand. The multiyear contract is TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED brand a global powerhouse. mass market and also produces estimated at $2 million, accord- TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE “We all learned from the first private label programs for midtier ing to sources, and will use the ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. makeup collection,” said Murry. department stores, has the finan- most likable “Housewife” in “all “The product was very good, but cial wherewithal and the manu- consumer touch-points,” includ- our core competence wasn’t color, facturing capabilities to make the ing print and TV ads, direct-mail and neither was UCI’s. We both new line successful. “Markwins and Internet efforts, said Patrice made mistakes, and we’ve both was willing to invest whatever Louvet, vice president of global Power Outage Hits L.A. learned from them. UCI did a amount of money they needed in hair colorants for Wella/Clairol tremendous job on our fragrances, talent, manufacturing and distri- retail hair color. By Rose Apodaca and Michelle Dalton Tyree and they’ve handed over a power- bution capabilities,” said Murry. “We think Teri personifies the ful scent business to Coty. But we About 150 prestige market spirit of the Nice ’n Easy brand.