More Thoughts on Gauge by Binka Schwan

Master Knitters Take Note – !

ON YOUR WAY TO THE MASTERS More Thoughts on Gauge by Binka Schwan

INTRODUCTION that of the pattern stitch so that an actual For basics on gauge and how gauge gauge swatch in pattern does not have to measurements are calculated, view my first be done. The designers are assuming that article online in the “Member Login” area if the stated stockinette gauge is obtained, at www.TKGA.com (On Your Way to the the resultant garment in the designated Masters Archive, February – April 2009 pattern stitch will “fit”. However, this may Cast On). not always be true, and it is my belief that a swatch should be done in the stitch pattern In this issue, I will address why it’s necessary to confirm if the final measurements will to take gauge measurements in particular be correct or not. For the Masters program, stitch patterns rather than always in gauge measurements for the swatches stockinette stitch. must be “in pattern” and stated so on the accompanying written pattern for each Yarn labels usually include both a suggest- swatch. ed stitch and row gauge. Sometimes only stitch gauge is given, not row gauge. These Some of the swatches in the Masters measurements are normally stated over a 4 program ask that a seed stitch border be used inch (10 centimeter) square and determine to frame the various stitch patterns. The lace the weight of the yarn. For example, a label swatches in Level 2 have this requirement. that shows gauge of 18 stitches and 24 rows These border stitches are not to be used in over 4 inches suggests the yarn is worsted the measurement of gauge. Also, if a swatch weight. Some yarn labels reflect gauge does not have any border stitches, and only over a 1 inch (2.5cm) or a 2 inch (5cm) shows the stitch pattern, do not include the square. Make certain that you observe the edge stitches (selvedge), cast on or bind off measurement unit given. Gauge measure- rows in the gauge measurement. ments on these labels are given in stock- No. For example, if a knitter chooses garter inette stitch, unless otherwise noted. stitch instead of stockinette, the stitch gauge It’s always recommended that gauge may be very similar to that of the stated swatches, no matter what stitch pattern If a garment is knit in stockinette stitch and stockinette stitch gauge. However, row gauge is used, be washed and blocked prior to if the knitter’s stockinette gauge is identical will be quite different with more rows per measuring the gauge. This process will to that of the yarn label and that stated in inch than in stockinette stitch. This means ensure that correct gauge measurements the pattern, the knitter’s completed piece will more rows will need to be added to the are obtained and will offer the knitter an measure and fit perfectly. But if the gauge project, and more yarn will be used than the opportunity to change what would be in a written pattern is stated in stockinette recommended yardage stated in the pattern. needed prior to knitting an entire garment. stitch and the knitter chooses to incorporate a different stitch pattern for the garment, Some patterns will state gauge in stockinette what happens? Can these two stitch patterns stitch when a completely different stitch be directly compared so the garment will fit pattern is used throughout. This is often seen exactly to the stated measurements and so in published lace designs. These designers enough yarn can be planned for the project? have extrapolated the stockinette gauge to continued on page 66

www.TKGA.com 65 continued from page 65 that of stockinette or garter, but row gauge pattern should state to measure gauge in will match stockinette stitch more closely. the ribbing pattern. Always measure gauge with the ribbing slightly stretched unless Ribbing the pattern states something different. Ribbing is traditionally used at the wrists, collar, and waist of a garment with a differ- Lace I have seen some extremely disappointed ent pattern stitch for the body. Because of Overall lace stitch patterns are often used knitters who have washed their carefully that, gauge measurement of the ribbing is when knitting scarves or shawls and exact knitted sweaters only to find out that it has not necessary as it is not the main pattern gauge may not be necessary for items such either stretched or become smaller after stitch. However, what if an entire garment is as this. But, what if you would like to knit

It’s always recommended that gauge swatches, no matter what stitch pattern is used, be washed and blocked prior to measuring the gauge. This process will ensure that correct gauge measurements are obtained and will offer the knitter an opportunity to change what would be needed prior to knitting an entire garment.

made of ribbing only? In that case, the gauge a sweater completely in a lace pattern? Gauge of the ribbing must be known in order for of stockinette stitch can and will most likely the garment to fit correctly. A one-by-one be different than gauge of the lace pattern, ribbing is used as the example here, but this with the lace pattern often showing fewer also refers to other variations of ribbing. stitches and rows to the inch as compared to stitches and rows in stockinette stitch. In a one-by-one rib swatch that is laid flat An example of this is noted in the Stitch cleaning. Washing and blocking a small without stretching, the knit stitches are seen Anatomy Lesson on Lace in the November gauge swatch would have eliminated this and the purl stitches are not. This is not how 2009 – January 2010 issue of Cast On. problem before a garment had been knit. the ribbing would look in a garment when worn, so gauge should not be measured in When doing a gauge swatch in lace, it is MEASURING GAUGE IN PATTERN this non-stretched state. recommended that at least three repeats STITCHES (pattern rows) and two multiples (pattern The remainder of this article will discuss If the swatch is stretched slightly, the ribbing stitches) of the lace pattern be knit. It is different pattern stitches and how gauge is opens slightly, and both the knit and purl also recommended that the lace stitches be affected by the interaction of the stitches stitches are seen. This makes the stitch gauge “framed” by either a garter or seed stitch and rows. less (fewer stitches/inch) than in the non- border so that only the stitches in the lace stretched swatch and can alter the row gauge pattern are counted for accurate gauge Seed/Moss Stitch with more rows to the inch compared to the measurements. Seed stitch may be the better Knitting and gauge measurement of a seed non-stretched swatch. In other words, if the choice for the borders as the row gauge of stitch swatch is a requirement in Level 1 of ribbing is being pulled outward, the length seed stitch may be a closer match to the the Master Hand Knit program. Seed stitch, of the swatch becomes slightly shorter. If row gauge of a lace pattern as compared also called moss stitch, is a stitch pattern this is how the ribbing is to look when the to garter stitch. Also, since lace can look where knit and purl stitches are alternated finished garment is worn, gauge should be VERY different before blocking, it is always across a row. On following rows, the knit measured in this slightly stretched state so recommended that a lace swatch be washed stitches are always purled and the purl stitch- the correct number of stitches can be cast on and blocked before any measurements are es are always knit so that a bumpy fabric is and the correct number of rows can be done made. This will ensure that when you knit obtained. The advantage of the seed stitch is to obtain a perfect fit. your all-over lace sweater it will fit you as that it does not curl and therefore it is often planned. recommended as an edging or a border. The If the ribbing is stretched even further, the actual gauge measurement procedure is relationship of fewer stitches and more rows Cables identical to that of how gauge is measured to the inch increases. Again, gauge should In Level 1 of the Master Hand Knitting in stockinette or garter stitch. The resultant be measured in this state if this is how the program, the knitter is asked to knit and seed stitch “stitch” gauge will be similar to finished garment is to look. The written provide gauge measurements of a cable

66 Cast On • May – July 2010 swatch. In Level 3, the Master’s candidate recommended that for any circular knitting gauge and if the pattern that you are doing is asked to design and knit an Aran sweater project, gauge be determined in the stitch will actually fit correctly. or an Aran hat which is composed primarily pattern required, in the round. of cable work. The nature of cable work CONCLUSION changes the manufacturer’s stockinette gauge Stranded Knitting It is always recommended to complete a measurements and therefore gauge MUST be In any type of stranded knitting such as gauge swatch in the pattern stitch of choice obtained in the cable pattern so that perfect Jaquard, Norwegian or Fair Isle, more than rather than stockinette stitch. If a pattern fit of a hat or sweater can be achieved. one color of yarn is used in each row of states the gauge in stockinette only, do both knitting. Since only one color can be knit at the pattern stitch and a stockinette swatch. Cables tend to “pull-in” the fabric, which re- a time, the color not being used is carried Compare the two to make certain that the sults in a stitch gauge that has more stitches along the back of the work until the knitter gauge you wish to obtain is actually what to the inch and possibly more rows to the is ready for that color. The yarn “floats” you are getting. Also, wash and block the inch when compared to the same amount across the knitting, hence they are called swatch for even better gauge accuracy. of stitches and rows in a stockinette swatch. floats. These floats can cause a knitter a Cables are usually surrounded by reverse problem with accurate gauge measurements References stockinette or other pattern stitches. These if they are carried too tightly across the back. Articles: stitches must also be included in the final gauge measurement. If there are a variety of This would result in a fabric that is pulled in Forte, Mary, “Entrelac Knitting Lesson”, cables used in a sweater or hat, for example, or puckered. Cast On, August – October 2009, pgs 30-36. stitch and row gauge of ALL cables and Holladay, Arenda, “Cable Stitch Lesson”, surrounding stitches must be obtained. Stranded knitting is most often done in the Cast On, November 2008 – January, 2009, Remember, when blocking cable swatches round and the stitch pattern of choice is pgs 9-15. the cables should not be stretched so that stockinette. How tightly or how loosely you Holladay, Arenda, “Stranded Knitting they are flattened. Cables should “pop” from strand will determine the actual gauge of Lesson”, Cast On, February – April, 2009, pgs the background stitches. your piece. Never assume that a flat, single 12-18. color, stockinette swatch will have the same Schwan, Binka, “On Your Way to the Masters Circular Knitting gauge measurements as a stranded, circularly – Gauge”, Cast On, February – April 2009, The term circular knitting refers to any knit swatch. The differences between the pgs 64-65. knitting, in any stitch pattern, that is done two can be significant and would severely Schwan, Binka, “Lace Lesson”, Cast On, in the round. In other words, the beginning alter the final measurements of a project. November 2009 – January 2010, pgs 11-19. stitch of the cast on edge is joined to the Therefore, if your project uses a stranded final cast on stitch so that a complete circle is technique and is knit in the round, it is Books: formed. Knitting is then done “in the round” necessary to do a stranded gauge swatch Aran Sweater Design, Janet Szabo, Big Sky and instead of rows, rounds are counted. that has been knit in the round. Knitting Designs, Kalispell, MT, 2006. This technique uses either double-pointed Knitspeak, Andrea Berman Price, HNA Inc., needles or a circular needle. Entrelac New York, NY, 2007.

Entrelac is a technique that uses individu- Reader’s Digest Knitter’s Handbook, Montse In circular knitting the wrong side or non- ally-formed knitted blocks and half-blocks Stanley, Reader’s Digest, Pleasantville, NY public side of the piece is never worked. All that are knit so as to complete a row of 1993. work is done on the right or public side. blocks. The blocks slant and are formed by a The Knitting Answer Book, Margaret Therefore, in stockinette stitch for example, series of increases and decreases. The follow- Radcliffe, Storey Publishing, North Adams, every round would be knitted. In reverse ing rows of blocks are then worked so they MA, 2005. stockinette, every round would be purled. slant in different directions. The resultant Vogue Knitting, Editors of Vogue Magazine, Because of this it is necessary to do a gauge swatch, in the round, to get the accurate fabric has a basket weave or interlocking Sixth and Spring Books, New York, NY, 2002. measurements of stitch and row gauge. diamond appearance. The stitch of choice Tension problems (evenness of fabric) when for Entrelac is usually Stockinette. I would like to thank Cindy Nelson and the using both the knit and purl stitch, as in Master Hand Knitting Committee Co-Chairs stockinette, can affect gauge in flat knit- Gauge measurements in published patterns for their suggestions and comments. ting. Because ONLY the knit stitch is used are often stated in stockinette stitch rather throughout when doing stockinette in the than the actual block measurement. Even round, gauge measurements for a circular though the blocks are done in stockinette stockinette swatch may be different than stitch, I recommend that gauge be measured if the stockinette gauge swatch were knit over a certain number of blocks rather than flat. There may be similar tension differ- stitches and rows of stockinette. Once you ences with other stitch patterns knit in the know the actual measurement of either one round, as opposed to knit flat. It is therefore or more blocks, it is easy to see if you are on