Master Knitters Take Note – ! ON YOUR WAY TO THE MASTERS More Thoughts on Gauge by Binka Schwan INTRODUCTION that of the pattern stitch so that an actual For basics on gauge and how gauge gauge swatch in pattern does not have to measurements are calculated, view my first be done. The designers are assuming that article online in the “Member Login” area if the stated stockinette gauge is obtained, at www.TKGA.com (On Your Way to the the resultant garment in the designated Masters Archive, February – April 2009 pattern stitch will “fit”. However, this may Cast On). not always be true, and it is my belief that a swatch should be done in the stitch pattern In this issue, I will address why it’s necessary to confirm if the final measurements will to take gauge measurements in particular be correct or not. For the Masters program, stitch patterns rather than always in gauge measurements for the swatches stockinette stitch. must be “in pattern” and stated so on the accompanying written pattern for each Yarn labels usually include both a suggest- swatch. ed stitch and row gauge. Sometimes only stitch gauge is given, not row gauge. These Some of the swatches in the Masters measurements are normally stated over a 4 program ask that a seed stitch border be used inch (10 centimeter) square and determine to frame the various stitch patterns. The lace the weight of the yarn. For example, a label swatches in Level 2 have this requirement. that shows gauge of 18 stitches and 24 rows These border stitches are not to be used in over 4 inches suggests the yarn is worsted the measurement of gauge. Also, if a swatch weight. Some yarn labels reflect gauge does not have any border stitches, and only over a 1 inch (2.5cm) or a 2 inch (5cm) shows the stitch pattern, do not include the square. Make certain that you observe the edge stitches (selvedge), cast on or bind off measurement unit given. Gauge measure- rows in the gauge measurement. ments on these labels are given in stock- No. For example, if a knitter chooses garter inette stitch, unless otherwise noted. stitch instead of stockinette, the stitch gauge It’s always recommended that gauge may be very similar to that of the stated swatches, no matter what stitch pattern If a garment is knit in stockinette stitch and stockinette stitch gauge. However, row gauge is used, be washed and blocked prior to if the knitter’s stockinette gauge is identical will be quite different with more rows per measuring the gauge. This process will to that of the yarn label and that stated in inch than in stockinette stitch. This means ensure that correct gauge measurements the pattern, the knitter’s completed piece will more rows will need to be added to the are obtained and will offer the knitter an measure and fit perfectly. But if the gauge project, and more yarn will be used than the opportunity to change what would be in a written pattern is stated in stockinette recommended yardage stated in the pattern. needed prior to knitting an entire garment. stitch and the knitter chooses to incorporate a different stitch pattern for the garment, Some patterns will state gauge in stockinette what happens? Can these two stitch patterns stitch when a completely different stitch be directly compared so the garment will fit pattern is used throughout. This is often seen exactly to the stated measurements and so in published lace designs. These designers enough yarn can be planned for the project? have extrapolated the stockinette gauge to continued on page 66 www.TKGA.com 65 continued from page 65 that of stockinette or garter, but row gauge pattern should state to measure gauge in will match stockinette stitch more closely. the ribbing pattern. Always measure gauge with the ribbing slightly stretched unless Ribbing the pattern states something different. Ribbing is traditionally used at the wrists, collar, and waist of a garment with a differ- Lace I have seen some extremely disappointed ent pattern stitch for the body. Because of Overall lace stitch patterns are often used knitters who have washed their carefully that, gauge measurement of the ribbing is when knitting scarves or shawls and exact knitted sweaters only to find out that it has not necessary as it is not the main pattern gauge may not be necessary for items such either stretched or become smaller after stitch. However, what if an entire garment is as this. But, what if you would like to knit It’s always recommended that gauge swatches, no matter what stitch pattern is used, be washed and blocked prior to measuring the gauge. This process will ensure that correct gauge measurements are obtained and will offer the knitter an opportunity to change what would be needed prior to knitting an entire garment. made of ribbing only? In that case, the gauge a sweater completely in a lace pattern? Gauge of the ribbing must be known in order for of stockinette stitch can and will most likely the garment to fit correctly. A one-by-one be different than gauge of the lace pattern, ribbing is used as the example here, but this with the lace pattern often showing fewer also refers to other variations of ribbing. stitches and rows to the inch as compared to stitches and rows in stockinette stitch. In a one-by-one rib swatch that is laid flat An example of this is noted in the Stitch cleaning. Washing and blocking a small without stretching, the knit stitches are seen Anatomy Lesson on Lace in the November gauge swatch would have eliminated this and the purl stitches are not. This is not how 2009 – January 2010 issue of Cast On. problem before a garment had been knit. the ribbing would look in a garment when worn, so gauge should not be measured in When doing a gauge swatch in lace, it is MEASURING GAUGE IN PATTERN this non-stretched state. recommended that at least three repeats STITCHES (pattern rows) and two multiples (pattern The remainder of this article will discuss If the swatch is stretched slightly, the ribbing stitches) of the lace pattern be knit. It is different pattern stitches and how gauge is opens slightly, and both the knit and purl also recommended that the lace stitches be affected by the interaction of the stitches stitches are seen. This makes the stitch gauge “framed” by either a garter or seed stitch and rows. less (fewer stitches/inch) than in the non- border so that only the stitches in the lace stretched swatch and can alter the row gauge pattern are counted for accurate gauge Seed/Moss Stitch with more rows to the inch compared to the measurements. Seed stitch may be the better Knitting and gauge measurement of a seed non-stretched swatch. In other words, if the choice for the borders as the row gauge of stitch swatch is a requirement in Level 1 of ribbing is being pulled outward, the length seed stitch may be a closer match to the the Master Hand Knit program. Seed stitch, of the swatch becomes slightly shorter. If row gauge of a lace pattern as compared also called moss stitch, is a stitch pattern this is how the ribbing is to look when the to garter stitch. Also, since lace can look where knit and purl stitches are alternated finished garment is worn, gauge should be VERY different before blocking, it is always across a row. On following rows, the knit measured in this slightly stretched state so recommended that a lace swatch be washed stitches are always purled and the purl stitch- the correct number of stitches can be cast on and blocked before any measurements are es are always knit so that a bumpy fabric is and the correct number of rows can be done made. This will ensure that when you knit obtained. The advantage of the seed stitch is to obtain a perfect fit. your all-over lace sweater it will fit you as that it does not curl and therefore it is often planned. recommended as an edging or a border. The If the ribbing is stretched even further, the actual gauge measurement procedure is relationship of fewer stitches and more rows Cables identical to that of how gauge is measured to the inch increases. Again, gauge should In Level 1 of the Master Hand Knitting in stockinette or garter stitch. The resultant be measured in this state if this is how the program, the knitter is asked to knit and seed stitch “stitch” gauge will be similar to finished garment is to look. The written provide gauge measurements of a cable 66 Cast On • May – July 2010 swatch. In Level 3, the Master’s candidate recommended that for any circular knitting gauge and if the pattern that you are doing is asked to design and knit an Aran sweater project, gauge be determined in the stitch will actually fit correctly. or an Aran hat which is composed primarily pattern required, in the round. of cable work. The nature of cable work CONCLUSION changes the manufacturer’s stockinette gauge Stranded Knitting It is always recommended to complete a measurements and therefore gauge MUST be In any type of stranded knitting such as gauge swatch in the pattern stitch of choice obtained in the cable pattern so that perfect Jaquard, Norwegian or Fair Isle, more than rather than stockinette stitch. If a pattern fit of a hat or sweater can be achieved.